Notes and Queries 



T 



HIS BOOK is sold with the understanding that the 



pu 
exl 



manufact 
tails of 1 
swered v 
the Amer 
by privat 
for each 
any brai 
machine, 
about an> 
porter, ai 
sue. 

The , 
weekly tc 
a genuine 



Class 
Book 




Copyright N°_ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



to any 
textile 
her de- 
are an- 
shed in 
iswered 
e made 
about 
ut any 
ations; 
ton Re- 
jrly is- 

he only 
ich has 



AMERICAN WOOL. AND COTTON REPORTER 

FRANK P. BENNETT & CO., Inc. 
Boston New York Philadelphia Washington 



A Cotton 
Fabrics Glossary 



Second Edition, much Enlarged and 
Improved, and including Analyses 
of all recent additions to the Cotton 
Fabrics of the World. Containing 
instructions for the manufacture of 
every known grade and variety of 
Cotton Fabrics. PRICE $5.00. 



FRANK P. BENNETT & CO., Inc. 

BOSTON NEW YORK PHILADELPHIA WASHINGTON 






COPRIGHTED 1914, By 
FRANK P. BENNETT & CO., Inc. 




MAY II 1914 
©CI.A871818 



J\ Cotton fabrics Glossary 



CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFAC- 
TURE OF EVERY KNOWN GRADE AND 
VARIETY OF COTTON FABRICS. 



COTTON >Y0ILES 

Until within the past few years. 
voile fabrics were made and sold in 
quite large quantities, considering 
the material from which they were 
made, but inasmuch as they were 
composed of worsted yarn, they 
were high in price and not especially 
desirable to the large majority of 
consumers. Possibly four or five 
years ago, voiles began to be made 
of cotton yarn, and while they are 
not so desirable in some ways as 
fabrics composed of worsted yarn, 
nevertheless they are very attractive, 
and for ordinary users show a much 
larger value than when made from 
worsted. 

Gradually the style for such fab- 
rics developed and for the past two 
years there has been possibly a 
greater sale for them than there 
has been for any other material man- 
ufactured in fancy cotton mills or 
for cotton fabrics which come under 
a fancy classification. The smooth- 
ness of the cotton yarns adds a great 
deal to the general cloth effect and 
has without doubt created a field 
which will show a greater or less de- 
mand continually. 

It is not likely that the sale will 
be as large as it is now or has been 
recently, but these fabrics show such 
a large amount of desirability that 
they cannot be dropped from the 



ordinary range of fancy fabrics to aa 
great a degree as some others have 
been in the past. Naturally, the va- 
riety of fabrics produced from cotton 
yarns shows a much 

WIDER RANGE OF STYLE 
and construction than they did from 
worsted, because cotton mills are bet- 
ter equipped to make a variety of 
combinations in yarn sizes, and also 
through the addition of other materi- 
als, such as silk, artificial silk and 
other fibres, to give certain effects. 

When voile fabrics were first made 
in cotton, the large majority of them 
were produced from two-ply yarn, 
and, naturally, much of this yarn was 
made from combed stock, because 
one of the main features of the fab- 
ric is to have as clear an effect as 
possible, or one in which there are 
as few fibres projecting from the yarn 
as possible. The twisting oper- 
ation aids perceptibly in making yarn 
smooth, and for this reason it is used 
extensively. To give crispness and 
also to aid in making the yarn round, 
it is given a much greater amount of 
twist than ordinary two-ply yarn, and 
regarding this situation, we will 
give a more extensive description 
later. There are also a good 
many voile fabrics which have been 
produced from single yarns, but, of 
course, they are not as serviceable 
nor as desirable as the two-ply fabric, 
although they do offer opportunities 
in purchasing at a reduction in price 



6 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



As a general statement, it can be 
said that voile fabrics have a very 
low count in comparison with most 
other fabrics. This is done in order 
that it may aid in giving the opeD 
effect which is so desirable in the fab- 
ric, for it must be remembered that 
when a voile fabric is used for a 
dress or for most other uses, it is 
necessary to wear underneath an 
other dress or fabric to make the 
garment opaque and aid in creating a 



is probable that the low constructions 
are much more frequent than the high 
constructions, because buyers are 
likely to cut the costs everywhere 
possible whenever an opportunity i9 
presented. Because there has been a 
low count used in these cloths, in 
the large majority of instances, the 
body of the fabric at least is com- 
posed of plain weave. Unless this 
is done a higher count is necessary 
for any size of yarn, and when the 




A Coarse Blue Voile of 45-1 Yarn. 



desirable effect, for combinations in 
colors between over-dress and under- 
dress are often used. 

One of the great problems in the 
making of any voile cloth is to have 
the construction of the cloth jus*, 
right, that is, so that the threads will 
not slip badly and still not be so close 
as to detract especially from the open- 
work effect. Voiles have often been 
sold in which the construction was 
too high, and which might have been 
lowered with a distinct saving in cost 
and a resulting better effect, and it 
is also true that voiles have been sold 
in which the construction was too 
low, for the threads slip badly and 
often create a wavy appearance. It 



cloth count is increased the voile ef- 
fect is lost. 

Some variation in count will be not- 
ed through the use of different staple 
lengths of cotton; that is, when a 
long cotton is used a smooth yarn Is 
likely to be produced and the smooth- 
er a yarn is, the more it is likely to 
slip when woven. It is also true that 
it is not necessary to use as much 
twist when a long cotton is used as 
when a short one is being spun. 
Through the low construction, or 
small number of picks per inch, the 
production in yards on voile fabrics 
is much greater than it has been on 
the majority of fabrics which fancy 
mills are accustomed to produce, even 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



though the percentage of production 
has not been as high as it has been 
on other fabrics. 

Each mill is likely to use a some- 
what different amount of twist in its 
yarns, due to somewhat different man- 
ufacturing conditions under whicb 
each operates, but as a general thing, 
it can be said that the cotton which is 
used in any kind of voile yarn is that 
which is ordinarily used in the yarn of 
the same size which would be used in 
a fancy fabric. In combed yarn fabrics, 
it is seldom that cotton shorter than 
this, ' iy& inches, is used, be- 
cause cotton shorter than this 
is seldom combed. It is a 
general mill policy to use just 
as short staple for any size of yarn 
as can be handled successfully, and 
it is not a good policy to use cotton 
which costs an extra cent or two 
when the advantage gained only 
amounts to a small portion of a cent. 

Inasmuch as the making of voile 
fabrics depends so much on the yarns 
used, it may be well to give some in- 
formation regarding their construc- 
tion and making. These ply yarns are 
both made from grey single yarns 
and also from dyed and bleached sin- 
gle yarns, but by far the largest ma- 
jority are made in the grey state. 
Inasmuch as they are two-ply or more 
than two-ply, it is readily recognized 
that a twisting operation is necessary 
before they are completed. Of course, 
when the yarns are made in the dyed 
or oleached state before weaving, it 
makes little difference regarding the 
cost, because practically the same 
number of processes have to be used, 
no matter what method is pursued 
but this is not true when grey yarn<* 
are being considered. 

In the first place, in making grey 
ply yarns, if they be taken and 
placed on the twister and twisted, 
they must also be handled by other 
succeeding processes, that is, the 
warp be spooled, warped and slashed 
just the same as any other warp 
yarn. The slashing operation 

SETS THE TWIST 
on the warp, so that it does not curl 
up and create any great trouble, but 



the filling cannot be quilled after 
twisting, but must be made up into a 
long chain warp and then sized and 
quilled before it can be woven. Un 
less this is done, the hard twist in 
the yarn is likely to make loops which 
appear in the cloth and make sec- 
onds. It has been found that so far 
as twisting the filling is concerned, it 
is much better to twist the two-ply 
on a spinning frame. This can be 
done by using filling bobbins which 
have been enamelled so as to stand 
a steaming process. When the filling 
yarn has been twisted or spun onto 
these bobbins, it can be taken direct- 
ly from the spinning frame to a 
steaming chest, which sets the twist 
and makes the yarn in a condition 
ready for weaving. 

As will be readily seen, this method 
of making hard twist two-ply grey 
filling yarn is more desirable than 
when twisted on a twisting frame, 
because it eliminates a number of 
processes and results in a cheaper 
yarn cost. This operation cannot al- 
ways be accomplished on a spinning 
frame, because they are sometimes 
not available, but it is a distinct ad- 
vantage when it can be accomplished- 
When single yarns are being used in 
making a voile cloth, it is custom- 
ary to use in some cases an ordinary 
warp yarn and in others a warp 
yarn in which there is only a slight 
excess of twist, while the filling yarn 
contains the extra hard twist. In 
making single yarn voiles it is nec- 
essary to use 

ENAMELLED BOBBINS 

for the filling, so that it can be steam- 
ed as above described on the two-ply 
yarn. For ordinary warp yarn the 
standard of twist is from 4J to 4? 
times the square root of the yarn 
size, whereas in hard twist yarn, such 
as is used in voiles, the standard of 
twist is likely to be from 7 to 8J times 
the square root of the yarn size. This 
holds true for both warp and filling 
and for both single and two-ply yarn, 
with the single exception of warp 
yarn used in single yarn voiles. In 
making the single yarn, whtch Is used 



8 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



before twisting, the standards of 
twist are almost always exactly the 
same as if ordinary warp yarn were 
being produced; that is, ordinary 
warp yarn can be taken and hard 
twisted, and then it is suitable for 
use in voiles. 

Thus it will be seen that the pro- 
duction of a voile yarn is likely to 
be only about half that noted on aa 
ordinary yarn, and for this reason 
the cost of production is likely tc b» j , 
about twice as much as it is on an or- 
dinary single or two-ply yarn of the 
same size. The twist in the two-plj 
yarn voiles for both warp and filling 
is practically always identical if the 
same size of yarn be used for warp and 
filling. 

ANALYSIS NO. 1. 

Width of the warp in reed 28% incher 

Width of the fabric grey 27 inches 

Width of the fabric finished 26 inches 

Ends per inch in the reed 34 

Ends per inch finished 38 

Reed (1 end per dent) 34 

2 2 

Ends in the warp — 966 — = 1,014 total 
12 12 

ends. 
Warp yarn size 45/2. 
Warp take-up 6%. 
Warp weight .0583. 
Filling size 45/2. 
Picks per inch 34. 
Filling weight .0528. 
Total weight per yard .1111. 
Yards per pound (grey) 9. 

The above fabric is the one ordi- 
narily known as 38x34, and has been 
sold in quite large quantities not only 
in the plain material but also in vari- 
ous dobby and striped patterns. The 
ply yarn in this fabric is made of 45-1 
single yarn, and in the twisting opera" 
tion there is a certain amount of con- 
traction, and instead of this yarn con- 
taining 18,900 yards per pound, we 
have used as a basis 18,500 yards, a 
figure which allows for shrinkage in 
possibly an average number of in- 
stances. With a very high standard 
of twist, the yarn will shrink more, 
while if the standard is lower ther^ 
will be less contraction. Two-ply 
hard twisted yarns are usually made 
from single yarns of a certain size, 
and the two-ply result is likely to be 
coarser in size than the single yarns 
used would indicate. When single 
*iard twisted yarns are being made, It 



is customary to change the gears bo 
that the yarn spun is a certain size. 

ANALYSIS NO. 2. 

Width of the warp in the reed 29 Inches 

Width of the fabric In the grey.... 27 inches 

Width of the fabric finished 26 inches 

Ends per inch in the reed 46 

Ends per Inch finished 49 

Reed (1 end per dent) 46 

Ends in the warp 24 1,310 24 = 1,358 total 

ends. 
Warp yarn size 60/2. 
Warp take-up 7%. 
Warp weight .0628. 
Filling size 60/2. 
Picks per inch 46. 
Filling weight .0574. 
Total weight per yard .1202. 
Yards per pound (grey) 8.32. 

This above cloth is another one 
which is manufactured extensively, 
and is known as 49x46 with 60-2 hard 
twist warp and filling. The twisted 
yarn is made from 60-1 warp yarn and 
due to contraction in twist, it con- 
tains only 23,250 yards per pound, in- 
stead of 25,200. There is also a sin- 
gle yarn voile, which is made from 
carded and also from combed yarn 
with counts about 50x48, and con- 
tains yarns in the vicinity of 30-1, 
the cloth being somewhat similar in 
weight to the one given in analysis 
No. 2, except that there is a differ- 
ence in appearance and cost which 
would be noted between a single and 
two-ply fabric. Then there are many 
fabrics made of fine two-ply yarns, 
and a large portion of the imported 
voiles are made from yarns up to 
and even higher than 120-2. 

The count on such fabrics is sel- 
dom higher than 64x64, that is, un- 
less the yarn is of extremely fine 
size. In order to increase the smooth- 
ness of the ply yarn it is often cus- 
tomary to use a gassing process after 
the yarn is twisted, which burns off 
the fibres of cotton projecting 
and which, although adding to the 
expense of production, is sometimes 
the means of returning a higher 
profit to the manufacturer because of 
added attractiveness. 

WEAVING. 

Practically all of the voile fabrics 
which have been sold have been wov- 
en on ordinary or fancy looms, even 
though some of them have been en- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



9 



tirely of plain weave. This has been 
because mispicks and breakages 
cause seconds to be made much 
quicker than would be noted on a 
cheaper class of fabrics and also be- 
cause the fancy mills which are able 
to produce the right kind of yarns 
have not had automatic looms to use 
even had they so desired. Without 
doubt, the use of stripes made 
in various methods out of cotton or 
silk has added much to the attrac- 
tiveness of voile fabrics and has been 
responsible for a portion of the large 
sale. 

When silk stripes have been used, 
fancy weaves have been employed on 
the stripes in many instances, and 
this is very desirable. The addition 
of a comparatively small amount of 
silk yarn is usually warranted through 
the higher selling price obtained ani 
the higher rate of profit which a mill 
can obtain through this method of 
manufacturing. Generally, the weav- 
ing process causes very little diffi- 
culty, for the yarns are strong, even 
though they are hard twisted, and, 
due to the low cloth count, there are 
only a comparatively few warp 
threads to be looked after by a weav- 
er, that is, unless there are crowded 
silk or cotton stripes. 

Probably, the large use of voiles 
has been the means of introducing to 
consumers in a large way the use of 
artificial silk. On fine fabrics, which 
are woven with a fine reed, there 
is a good deal of friction, which 
causes artificial silk warp threads to 
rub and fray out and be rather un- 
satisfactory in weaving, which fact 
has curtailed their use to a certain 
extent in the past, but the coarse 
count of voile fabrics and the com 
paratively small amount of rubbing 
in weaving has made the use of this 
silk entirely satisfactory and much 
more of it is being noted, especially 
in the imported lines. Consume? 5 ? 
have found that the use of this silk 
is not undesirable, and that there has 
been a change of sentiment, as shown 
by the fact that retailers to-day 
designate that such material has been 
used Id making the cloth when they 



are showing the goods, while even 
one year ago it was very hard to find 
a case where such use was brought 
to a consumer's attention, although 
the material was used quite exten 
sively at that time. 

FINISHING. 

For the fabric which is woven from 
dyed and bleached yarns there is no 
great necessity for any extra finish- 
ing processes after the cloth comes 
from the loom, and when it has teen 
examined, washed, ironed and folded, 
it is ready for sale; in other words, 
the treatment of such cloth is very 
similar to other dyed yarn fabrics. 
The cloth which is woven from grey 
yarn is treated in an entirely differ- 
ent manner, and the results obtained 
may be of widely different character, 
even though the same grey cloth is 
used as a basis. 

In the first place, the grey fabric 
is bleached, and this process is likely 
to vary, depending upon the materials 
which have been used in the cloth 
For an ordinary all cotton voile, the 
ordinary bleaching process may be 
used, but when silk is used in combi- 
nation for stripes- or checks, it must 
be bleached by a method which will 
not harm either material, and possi- 
bly sodium peroxide is more exten- 
sively used than any other material 
f>r bleaching such combination fab 
rics. After the voile fabric is bleach 
ed, it may be dyed a solid color or 
left white if the cloth is plain weave, 
or it may be printed in allover pat- 
terns or with various styles of bor- 
ders, such as are being used and 
which have been popular since voiles 
have been selling well. 

Then it is also true that many of 
the finer and more expensive fabrics 
are treated to a mercerization proc- 
ess, as this seems to make the 
threads rounder and the voile 
effect better. The process acts, 
so far as results are concerned, 
much the same as if the ply 
yarn composing the fabrics had 
been treated to a gassing operation 
before being woven. Such a process 
is even being applied to many of the 
ordinary voiles, especially since the 



10 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



large use of mercerization has mads 
the cost of doing it much less, and 
which does not make the fabric pro- 
hibitive in price. On fancy fabrics 
which contain silk there are other 
results besides the foregoing possible, 
for, besides being mercerized and sold 
in the white state or dyed solid col- 
ors or printed, the cloths can be dyed 
with certain colors, which is call- 
ed cross dyeing, so that the silk yarn 
appears as one color, while the cotton 
is another, and it is also noted that 
many of the fabrics have the silk 
yarn with the cotton yarn in the 
color desired. 

On the cheap voiles which are only 
printed, the cost of finishing may be 
as low as 1^4 cents a yard, or if sold 
in the white state even less than this 
amount, while on the high-priced fab- 
rics the cost may be much higher, 
and it is proDable that most of tht 
better fabrics being offered by the re- 
tailers cost from 3 cents to 3| cents 
io finish, that is, it costs the conver- 
ter who handles the goods this 
amount to have it done. 

CARDING AND SPINNING. 

The yarns which are used in the 
making of voiles are varied, but in 
general the foundation yarns are 
much the same as those which would 
be used for the same kinds of cloth 
in a fancy cotton mill. For fine yarn 
longer cotton is used than for coarse 
yarn, but for the 45-2 yarn in the 
fabric, for which an analysis is given, 
the cotton staple length would be 
about 1 3-16 inches, while for the 
60-2 fabric the cotton length would be 
about U inches, and if 100-2 were to 
be used, the cotton length would be 
about iy 2 inches. 

In combing cotton for medium or 
coarse yarn sizes, the percentage of 
waste removed is less than wher. 
fine yarns are to be made, the amount 
of waste removed depending upon 
circumstances. There should be a 
good mixing of cotton before it is 
run through the pickers, as this is 
one of the features which results in 
even j*rn which is so necessary In 
the production of voiles, while the 
weights of sliver will depend a good 



deal on the mill organization and also 
on the kind and size of comber being 
employed. The spacing of the rolls 
on the various machines should be 
wide enough, so that in no case will 
the cotton fibres be broken, and the 
amount will vary on the different 
machines from one-eighth inch to 
one-quarter inch more than the cot- 
ton staple length. Assuming that a 
finished drawing sliver is being pro- 
duced of a weight of 40 grains and 
that three processes of fly frames are 
to be used, a lay-out for one yard of 
45-1 yarn would be about as follows: 

.1852 grain. 

.98 2% contraction in spinning. 



.1815 

10.58 spinning draft. 



1.92 -*- 2 ends = 96 = 8.67 hank roving. 
6.4 fine frame draft. 



6.16 -h 2 ends = 3.08 = 2.70 hank roving. 
5.65 intermediate frame draft. 



17.4 -4- 2 ends = 8.70 = .96 hank roving. 
4.6 slubber frame draft. 



40.00 grains finisher drawing weight. 

If four processes of fly frames are 
to be used in producing 45-1 yarn, it 
probably would be better to use a 
heavier finished drawing sliver, and 
through the greater opportunity for 
drawing, due to the extra process, the 
right size of yarn can be obtained. It 
is a very good policy not to have 
the spinning draft much over 10%, 
although there are mills where this 
is exceeded somewhat. Conservative 
drafts and speeds will usually be of 
ultimate advantage in manufacture, 
for it not only is likely to result In 
a greater yarn production, but it is 
likely to make fewer seconds in the 
cloth room, a higher percentage of 
production on the loom, with a corre- 
sponding lower cost, and also a better 
fabric, which will command a higher 
price because of the better yarn com- 
posing it. What would be a good lay- 
out for one mill would not be so good 
for another, but this statement does 
not mean that there rre mills which 
could not improve their yarn layout. 
rither by changing the drafts or 
changing the speeds or even add- 
ing a few machines so as to 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



11 



give a greater amount of flexi- 
bility to the organization. There 
is such a wide range of up-to- 
dateness in the machinery in the va- 
rious mills that one mill can operate 
to advantage with cotton of 1% inches 
in length, while another for the same 
size of yarn may have to use 1*4 -inch 
stock. The problem is an individual 
one, which cannot be decided quickly, 
and to give a layout which would be 
entirely suitable or even desirable 
for general mills. conditions is not an 
especially good policy. 

DYEING INSTRUCTIONS. 
The following dyeing instructions 
may be used for the dyeing of this 
kind of material. In a general way, 
the goods will be worked in the dye 
liquor for approximately three-quar- 
ters of an hour at the boiling point. 
The amounts of color are based on 
the supposition that 100 pounds of 
material is to be dyed, and for this 
amount of material, there will be re- 
quired somewhere in the vicinity of 
180 gallons of liquor. The amounts 
of dyestuffs and other materials are 
those necessary for the first batch of 
material : 

BLUE. 
%% Oxamine Blue, 3 B. N. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

PINK. 
1-25% Cotton Red 4 B. X. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

RED. 
2%% Thlazine Red R. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

BROWN. 
2%% Cotton Brown G. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

ORANGE. 
2%% Pyramlne Orange R. R. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

SLATE. 
1-10 of 1% Oxamine Black, R. N. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

YELLOW. 
1% Stllbene Yellow, 2 G. P. extra Cone. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 



■4«» 



MERCERIZED WAISTINGS 

There has developed during com- 
paratively recent years, or since the 
mercerization process has been per- 



mitted to be used, a class of fabrics 
of wide variety, but which have quite 
a number of prominent features in 
common. This class of fabrics con- 
tains those which are mercerized in 
the piece in the filling direction, and 
these materials are used extensively 
for women's waistings and dresses, 
for men's shirtings and for various 
other purposes which creates for 
them a large field for sale. These 
cloths are produced in plain weave 
and also with dobby and jacquard fig- 
ures, and the results obtained appear 
to many consumers to be comparable 
to some silk fabrics, in fact they are 
quite often sold as such, for the lus- 
tre obtained through such methods is 
permanent. 

Since the introduction of fast col- 
ors which are able to stand the 
bleaching process there has been a 
greater opportunity for variety than 
there was earlier, and it is probable 
that the sale of such fabrics has hurt 
the sale of the older style madras 
shirtings to quite an appreciable ex- 
tent, for shirt makers can thus pur- 
chase their cloth and convert it 
themselves, thereby saving quite 
large amounts on certain lines. 
There has been some criticism re- 
garding the wear of many of these 
new fabrics, it being claimed that 
they do not wear as well as the old- 
er lines and that mercerization hurts 
the cloth quality, but this 

IS NOT TRUE. 

The trouble has been when com- 
paring the mercerized fabric that it 
has not been so heavy in weight or 
produced of such coarse yarns as the 
earlier shirting fabrics, and, natural- 
ly, would not stand as much hard 
wear. Of course, the soft twist ap- 
plied to the filling yarn does render 
the mercerized fabric a little bit less 
durable, but not enough to allow any 
large criticism, especially when sim- 
ilar weights of fabrics are consid- 
ered. 

The newer fabrics are sold largely 
because of their improved appear- 
ance, and because they offer oppor- 
tunities for the use of fancy weaves 
which the others do not, and be- 
cause they can be sold at a reason- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



able price which never could be not- 
ed on the older style of goods. Not 
only does such a fabric offer the 
above opportunity, so far as the 
weave is concerned, but it also al- 
lows yarns of fine sizes to be han- 
dled at a comparatively low cost, 
yarns which were very seldom han- 
dled at all in the earlier fabrics for 
the same purposes, and besides, when 
they were handled, it was at prohib- 
itive prices, so far as any large sale 



certain amount of competition to 
such lines. 

One fact worth noting is that re- 
tailers in general have not as yet 
shown the variety or the adaptability 
of such material, for comparatively 
few lines have been purchasable by 
them up to the present time, and the 
fabrics which they have obtained in 
many cases have been styles of which 
cutters-up bought too heavily and dis- 
posed of at second hand. For this 



: 



Three Mercerized Waist or Shirting Fabrics. 



of the cloth was concerned. Thus it 
will be seen that competition has de- 
veloped quite extensively between 
madras and mercerized shirtings, but 
only because the sale of the latter 
eliminates some of the opportuni- 
ties for the sale of the former, and 
not because the fabrics as sold are 
very similar in appearance, because 
they usually are not. It is quite true 
that mercerized waistings and simi- 
lar fabrics have often been purchased 
in place of silk material, and for this 
reason, they may be said to offer a 



reason, the future possibilities of 
such cloths have not been tried out 
extensively. Last year saw a large 
increase in the use of such cloths 
and the coming year will witness a 
still greater one. But that buyers 
have recognized the situation is seen 
from the large purchases which have 
been made recently from mills which 
are able to produce these construc- 
tions in fancy weaves. 

In a general way, madras shirtings 
are made from bleached yarn, and 
many of them have a somewhat high- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



13 



er warp count than they do filling 
count, while the warp yarn is also 
coarser in size than the filling, al- 
though this variation is usually com- 
paratively slight, while mercerized 
fabrics are usually made from grey 
yarns. They also have a higher, or 
a radically higher, count in the filling 
than they do in the warp, and the 
filling is usually a heavier size of 
yarn than the warp, in many in- 
stances being about half as fine. This 
variation in cloth construction gives 
a much different cloth when produc- 
ed and one which is radically differ- 
ent when finished. Besides, the fill- 
ings in madras shirtings, which are 
made from bleached yarns, are com- 
paratively as hard twisted as the 
warp, so that they can be handled 
successfully, while for the fabric 
which is to be mercerized, the filling 
has a much lower standard of twist, 
this standard being often less than 
three times the square root of the 
yarn size. 

Another feature worth noting is that 
a large number of the mercerized 
fabrics are made from combed yarns, 
while the earlier fabrics were and are 
made largely from carded stock, 
which gives a cloth that not only is 
not likely to be so strong but will 
not be comparable in appearance. Not 
only does the better yarn used tend 
to make a more even fabric, but the 
mercerized cloths, due to the various 
processes of finishing, lose entirely 
the reed marks which often make 
bleached and dyed yarn fabrics very 
objectionable, but which cannot be 
eliminated, excepting at a cost which 
is not desirable. Certain 

MERCERIZED FABRICS 

are made with carded warp and 
combed filling, while there are some 
which are made wholly from carded 
stock, but the majority of such fab- 
rics, especially those made from me- 
dium and fine yarns, are manufactur- 
ed from combed material. One con- 
struction which is used extensively, 
and which forms the basis for many 
weaves and stripes, is 64 by 72, with 
50s-l warp and 30s-l soft twist filling. 
The fabric which we have analyzed 
is about this construction in the 



ground, although a warp of 55s-l has 
been used instead of 50s-l. 

Another finer construction which is 
used in many of the higher grade fab- 
rics is 72 by 96, with 70s-l or finer 
warp and 40s-l soft twist filling. 
These two constructions give a good 
general idea regarding the yarns used 
and the sizes which render the best 
results and also gives a general idea 
regarding the constructions employ- 
ed. The soft twist filling is used, be- 
cause better results can be obtained 
when the cloth is mercerized. Soft 
twist in the yarn allows the various 
cotton fibres to lie more nearly par- 
allel in the yarn, thus reflecting the 
light and giving more lustre. In a 
good many fabrics Egyptian cotton is 
used for the filling, because this ma- 
terial has been found to give better 
results than other kinds of cotton. 
Possibly, there is more Egyptian cot- 
ton used for filling in fabrics which 
are to be mercerized than there is 
in any other one material with the 
exception of knitted fabrics. Follow- 
ing is the analysis of the fabric con- 
sidered which contains a dobby pat- 
tern with stripes of crowded yarn, 
and also a plain fabric of a higher 
construction and with finer yarns. 

ANALYSIS NO. 1. 

Width of warp in reed, 29% inches. 
Width of fabric finished, 28 inches. 
Ends per inch finished (over all) 84. 
Ends per inch finished (ground) 68. 
Reed 32 X 2. 

2 2 

Ends in the warp — 2,288 — = 2,362, total 
16 16 

ends. 
Warp yarn 65/1. 
Filling yarn 30/1. 
Picks per inch, grey, 72. 
Warp take-up, 7%. 
Warp weight, grey .0547. 
Filling weight, grey .0843. 
Total weight per yard, grey .1390. 
Yards per pound 7.19. 

ANALYSIS NO. 2. 

Width of warp in reed, 29% inches. 
Width of fabric finished. 28 inches. 
Ends per inch finished 72. 
Reed 34 X 2. 

2 2 

Ends in warp — 1,974 — = 2,038. 

16 16 

Warp yarn 70/1. 
Filling yarn 40/1. 
Picks per inch, grey, 96. 
Warp take-up, 6%. 
Warp weight, grey .0369. 
Filling weight, grey .0843. 
Total weight, per yard, grey .1212. 
Yards per pound, grey 8.25. 



14 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Most of the fabrics which are of 
the construction described are made 
on ordinary or fancy looms, and com- 
paratively few are made on automatic 
machines. This is true partly be- 




Weave Diagram. 

cause the mills which can produce 
yarns of the required quality do not 
contain many automatic looms and 
also because there is a much greater 
necessit.v for having the cloth pro- 



duced contain few flaws when com- 
pared with cheap carded materials. 
Then it is also questionable whether 
there is any great advantage to be 
gained through the use of automatic 
looms when fine warp yarns are used. 
In any case, it is at least certain that 
the advantage which is obtained is 
not as great as it is on fabrics which 
are woven from rather heavy yarns. 
A large portion of the mercerized 
fabrics are made with fancy dobby 
or jacquard weaves, and for these 
weaves the ordinary automatic ar- 
rangement is not very adaptable. 

In making patterns for these 
cloths it is almost always the prac- 
tice to make the figures almost en- 
tirely of filling floats. This shows up 
the figures more prominently, and 
when the cloth is mercerized the 
results are more desirable. Some- 
times warp floats are used in com- 
bination with filling floats so as to 
bring out certain effects, but they 
are not used extensively, because the 
warp is usually of much finer size 
than the filling and does not show up 
any effects very well. Stripes are 
sometimes operated from the same 
beam as the ground yarn, and this 
probably has been done in the cloth 
which we have analyzed. This meth- 
od can be taken if the weave and 
threads per dent can be adjusted cor- 
rectly, but the price of cloth and the 
demands of buyers often make such 
a thing impossible, and the stripe 
must be made from an extra beam. 
When colored stripes are being pro- 
duced, even though woven with plain 
weave, they are practically always 
placed on a separate beam. 

We are giving the drawing-in draft 
and chain for Fabric No. 1 which 
has been analyzed. This should be 
entirely clear, but for various reasons, 
it may be well to state that the fig- 
ures in the draft represent the vari- 
ous harnesses on which the warp 
threads are drawn to produce this 
pattern. The figures at the bottom of 
the draft represent the number of 
threads which are reeded in each 
dent after they have been drawn 
through the headle eyes in the har- 
nesses, while the figures to the right 
of the draft represent the number of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



15 



heddles which are required on each 
harness, so that the warp can be all 
drawn in. In fancy cloth mills, har- 
nesses are almost always made up 
previous to the drawing-in operation, 
so that it will not be necessary to 
add any heddles when the warp is 
partly drawn in, or take them off 
after the drawing-in is completed. 
FINISHING. 

As previously stated, the fabric 
which is being considered is treated 
in a radically different manner from 
that used on the ordinary madras or 
waisting fabrics. In the first place, 
it is necessary to bleach the 
cloth because it is in its grey 
state when woven, and the yarns con- 
tain the cotton wax besides the dirt 
from handling and other foreign ma- 
terial which has to be eliminated be- 
fore any material can be successfully 
dyed or finished. Some finishers use 
the ordinary bleach when finishing 
such fabrics, while others use the 
peroxide process, but the method em- 
ployed is of little importance. The 
bleaching makes the fabric which is 
being treated white, but it does not 
impart any lustre to it. This is done 
by another process which is called 
mercerization, from the man who or- 
iginally discovered the process. 

Caustic soda when applied to cot- 
ton cloth or yarn causes it to shrink 
very materially, usually about 20 per 
cent when the cloth is shrunk 
as much as possible, but when 
this is allowed there is no lustre im- 
parted. The lustre is obtained when 
the material is held out to as nearly 
its grey width as possible. The cot- 
ton fibres, which in their ordinary 
state are rather flat twisted tubes, 
seem to swell out and appear more 
or less like small glass rods when 
examined under the microscope after 
they have been mercerized. This 
smooth appearance reflects the light 
rays and makes the lustre which is 
ordinarily noted. By using filling 
which is soft twisted the 

PROCESS OF MERCERIZATION 

is aided, for the fibres, as 
previously stated, lie more nearly 
parallel in the fabric, although it is 
possible to impart some lustre to 



even the shortest cotton fibres, and 
also when they are twisted harder 
than ordinarily noted. This will be 
readily recognized by examining 
some of the high-class voiles which 
are now being sold, because the yarns 
which these fabrics contain are very 
hard twisted, but even under such 
conditions it has been found that 
mercerization adds to their finished 
appearance, and it is often employed. 
Various methods are used to obtain 
the lustrous results which are noted 
in this class of fabrics, but the main 
necessity in obtaining these results 
is to hold out the fabric tightly in the 
filling direction when it is being 
treated, and, at the same time, to 
allow the caustic soda solution to 
operate. It would naturally be sup- 
posed that results would be better if 
a stronger solution were to be used, 
but this is not true, and the use of 
a solution over a certain strength is 
only a waste of material and adds 
to the cost. After mercerization the 
fabric is washed, worked, so as to 
slip the threads and picks into their 
proper positions, calendered, folded 
and handled in any special way nec- 
essary, and is then ready for ship- 
ment. Quite a little of such mate- 
rial is sold in the white state, but 
there are also a good many fabrics 
which are printed or piece dyed in 
addition to being mercerized. 

THE PRICE FOR FINISHING 

and applying the mercerization proc- 
ess will vary somewhat, but to-day 
the quoted price is 1% cents a yard, 
with an allowance of 2 per cent as 
a working loss in yardage and 3 
cents a piece for the so-called silk 
papers for folders. It often happens 
when finishing fabrics entirely in the 
white that this above-mentioned 2 
per cent working loss does not oc- 
cur. The charge for the cases in 
which the fabrics are shipped is usu- 
ally about one-twentieth of a cent a 
yard. When a fabric is to be dyed 
in addition to bleaching and mercer- 
izing, the price is 1% cents a yard, 
and the 2 per cent working loss is 
almost always noted because of the 
smaller quantities handled. For print- 
ing, in addition to bleaching and 



16 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



mercerizing, the price is likely to be 
about 2 cents a yard, although the 
kind of pattern desired will affect the 
cost somewhat. In all the above quo- 
tations the amount of cloth which is 
to be finished will affect the prices 
named for accomplishing it, that is, 
when a small amount is to be treat- 
ed, the price is likely to be somewhat 




Drawing-in Draft. 

higher than when a large amount is 
to be done. In general, it can be said 
that the price for this work has de- 
creased quite a little in recent years, 
and, in addition, the results obtained 
are very much improved, facts which 
have in this instance been responsi- 
ble for cheaper cloth to the consumer. 
As previously stated, the warp in 
mercerized fabrics such as those de- 



scribed is usually of rather fine size, 
But in construction it is no different 
from the ordinary warp of the same 
size used in making the usual fancy 
cloths. For 55s-l combed warp for 
cloth similar to that analyzed the 
cotton used would be 1*4 inches in 
length. The rolls on the various 
frames should be set so that in no 
case will the cotton fibres be broken, 
for unsatisfactory yarn will result if 
this is done. The 55s-l warp might 
be made either by three or four proc- 
esses of fly-frames, although it is 
likely that four processes will give 
much better and more satisfactory re- 
sults. Two layouts for such yarn 
follow one produced from a 35-grain 
finisher drawing sliver, and with 3 
processes of fly-frames and the other 
for a finisher drawing sliver of 48 
grains with 4 processes of fly-frames. 

3 PROCESSES, FLY FRAMES. 
1 yard of 55/1 =» 
.1515 grains. 

.97 3% contraction In spinning. 



.1470 

10.27 spinning draft. 



1.514 •*- 2 ends = .757 = 11 hank roving. 
6.85 fine frame draft. 



5.185 h- 2 ends = 2.59 = 3.21 hank roving. 
5.75 Intermediate frame draft. 



14.892 -r- 2 ends = 7.45 = 1.12 hank roving. 
4.70 slubber frame draft. 



35 grains finisher drawing weight. 

4 PROCESSES. FLY FRAMES. 
1 yard of 55/1 = 
.1515 grains, 

.97 3% contraction in spinning. 



.1470 

10.27 spinning draft. 



1.514 -i- 2 ends = .757 = 11 hank roving. 
6 fine frame draft. 



4.54 -7- 2 ends = 2.27 = 3.67 hank roving. 
5.2 second Intermediate draft. 



11.80 -+- 2 ends = 5.90 = 1.41 hank roving. 
4.4 first intermediate draft. 



25.96 -h 2 ends = 12.98 = .64 hank roving. 
3.7 slubber framd draft. 



48 grains finisher drawing weight. 

The filling used in such a cloth 
would probably be made from 1%- 
inch cotton, and the rolls should be 
set correctly for this length of sta- 
ple. It often happens that it is nec- 
essary to use a longer cotton staple 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



17 



in making filling yarn which is to be 
used in cloth that is to be mercerized. 
Methods will depend somewhat on 
the machinery being used and largely 
on the amount of twist which is to 
be given to the yarn for filling. When 
the twist per inch is lowered radi- 
cally, a longer staple of cotton must 
be used if the yarn spins well in the 
spinning room, or if it be handled 
successfully, that is, if it is made on 
an ordinary spinning frame. One lay- 
out for 30s-l filling which is to be 
soft twisted and produced with three 
fly-frame processes and with a 45- 
grain finisher drawing sliver is as 
follows : 

1 yard of 30/1 = 
.2778 grains. 

.98 2% contraction in spinning. 



.2722 
8.45 spinning frame draft. 



2.30 -h 2 ends = 1.15 = 7.25 hank roving. 
6.5 fine frame draft. 



7.48 ■+- 2 ends = 3.74 = 2.23 hank roving. 
5.57 intermediate frame draft. 



20.83 -*- 2 ends = 10.42 = .8 hank roving. 
4.32 slubber frame draft. 



45 grains finisher drawing weight. 

It is not necessary to state any 
particular facts regarding the meth- 
ods which should be used in handling 
cotton in the early processes of mak- 
ing cotton yarn, for they are well 
known, and any radical changes from 
them are likely to result in poor yarn 
and low quality cloth. The more 
care which is given to the prelimi- 
nary processes of yarn making the 
better will be the quality of the cloth 
and the price which can be obtain- 
ed. In no case should a machine be 
operated at an excessive speed in 
order to obtain greater production, 
especially when the fabric which is 
to be produced is selling for a com- 
paratively high price, and it is very 
questionable whether on the cheap- 
est fabrics excessive speed results in 
any great ultimate economy. 

DYEING PARTICULARS. 

ORANGE. 
Toluylene fast orange L X 1%%. 
10-30% Glauber's salt crystals. 
1-2% soda ash. 

Enter at the boiling point and work with 
the steam turned off. 



RED. 

Benso fast eoslne B L 2%. 
20-60% Glauber's salt crystals. 
1-2% soda ash. 

Enter at the boiling point and work with 
the steam turned off. 

BLUE. 
Oxamine blue 3 B M %%. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

YELLOW. 
Stilbene yellow, 2 G P extra cons. 1%. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

PINK. 

Benso fast eosine B L %%• 

20-60% Glauber's salt crystals. 

1-2% soda ash. 

Enter at a ratner low temperature and 
warm up rather slowly. The Glauber's 
salt is added subsequently and In several 
portions. 

HELIOTROPE. 
Benso fast heliotrope %%. 
10-30% Glauber's salt crystals. 
1-2% soda ash. 

Enter at the boiling point and work with 
the steam turned off. 

BROWN, 
dotton brown G 2 %%. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 



■» »» 



RAMIE-LINEN 



There is one fabric which deserves 
mention at the present time, not be- 
cause the construction is especially 
new or intricate, but because of the 
adaptation of the cloth to obtain a 
certain end. This cloth is what is gen- 
erally known as Ramie-Linen. The 
name of the fabric is used to give add- 
ed selling ability, and many consum- 
ers would be led to believe that it 
was composed of something else be- 
sides cotton, possibly that it was lin- 
en treated in a different manner from 
that ordinarily noted. This method 
of naming a fabric does not permit 
the obtaining of as high a price as 
could be obtained if the fabric were 
linen and a consumer was certain of 
it, but it does make it possible in a 
great many cases to obtain a higher 
price than if consumers were sure 
it was composed of nothing but cot- 
ton. Not only has this fabric been 
given a very deceptive name and one 
which should not be possible to use 
for such a fabric, but it has also been 
constructed in a similar manner so 
far as its yarns are concerned and 



IS 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



also finished in such a manner as to 
appear exactly like a good many of 
the coarse linen cloths. 

Undoubtedly, there will be a great 
deal of such material sold by retailers 
as linen, not because they have any 
intention to oker low values but be- 
cause of general conditions which 
apply to this particular fabric, for in 
some cases it is entirely probable that 
retailers will not know that such a 
cloth is made from cotton. As a gen- 
eral statement, it can be said that 
there are no such wide variations in 
price on such a fabric as that consid- 
ered as would be noted on the more 
expensive materials, due to conditions 
of making, but the selling of such mer- 
chandise affects that class of consum- 
ers who can least afford to suffer any 
losses through mistakes in purchasing 
fabrics at a comparatively high price 
and under deceptive conditions. A 
small additional profit per yard on a 
coarse fabric makes a great difference 
in the ultimate profit secured, for the 
production and distribution is large 
and profits are secured from such 
features rather than from extremely 
high prices. 

Fabrics such as that described are 
used for dresses, waists, coverings, in 
fact, for practically all the purposes 
for which similar grades of linen 
would be suitable. These fabrics have 
been produced by mills in the 
grey state and they are sold to con- 
verters who have them finished in the 
manner which they desire, and it is 
very likely that the mills which have 
made the cloth have not received any 
great additional profit over that which 
would have been noticed recently be- 
cause these fabrics have been in de- 
mand. It is probable that mills have 
obtained anywhere from 14 to 11 cents 
per yard profit on these cloths, but 
this is high and does not indicate con- 
ditions which apply generally to this 
class of cloth making. Of course, the 
above named profits will return a 
handsome dividend to any mill produc- 
ing them, but it is among the subse- 
quent sellers that variable prices are 
developed when any are noted. 

As a fabric this material is rather 
coarse and made from very heavy sizes 
of yarn, the threads and picks per 



inch being comparatively few in num- 
ber. Not only are the yarns heavy, 
but they are also very irregular, in 
fact, the more irregular they are, the 
more desirable the fabric is to buyers 
when it comes to be finished and sold 
as they are in imitations of linens. In 
a good many cases the yarns are made 
from waste obtained in the making 
of better yarn, and the fabrics are no 
different from ordinary Osnaburgs or 
crashes, that is, if they were distrib- 
uted through other channels. 

In fact, many converters have pur- 
chased the above fabrics and used 
them for imitation linens. In practi- 
cally all instances these cloths are 
woven with plain weave, because this 
weave, together with the kinds of yarn 
used, gives by far the best results, as 
it shows up the irregularities in the 
woven fabrics and makes the finished 
article more salable. Fabrics such 
as that described, that is, made with 
coarse yarn, and a comparatively small 
number of threads and picks per inch 
and woven with a simple weave should 
be produced on some kind of an auto- 
matic loom. This method allows a 
weaver to operate a greater number 
of looms, and decreases the cost of 
production quite radically, possibly 
not as large an amount per pound as 
on finer cloths, because a loom pro- 
duces a larger poundage, but, never- 
theless, a large enough item to make a 
great difference in the profits secured. 
The irregularity of the yarns compos- 
ing the fabric tends to make it firm- 
er than it otherwise would be; that 
is, with a plain weave and a certain 
size of yarn the count of the cloth 
would have to be higher with smooth 
round yarn than it would with irregu- 
lar yarn, such as is noted in this 
fabric or in other novelty cloths which 
are selling at the present time. 

This is one of the comparatively 
few fabrics where uneven and cheap 
yarn is rather desirable, and, naturally, 
machinery is worked as hard as pos- 
sible, not only because it gives great- 
er production, but also because It 
tends to make the yarn uneven. Even 
in making yarns as coarse as those 
considered and of as poor quality, it 
is still necessary to keep as many ma- 
chines in operation as possible, and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



19 



have the organization correct, for 
only in this manner can costs be kept 
as low as possible. 

ITEMS REGARDING PRICE. 

As we previously stated, this cloth 
is one of the coarsest produced and 
naturally the selling price is low. A 
good many of these materials which 
are sold for use as linens have been 
sold at 36 inches wide in the grey 
state, and when finished they are 
about 2 inches narrower, or 34 inches. 
The mill selling price for the fabric 
which we have analyzed was 7| cents 
per yard, for 36-inch wide cloth, or 
about 24§ cents per pound, on a 
poundage basis. This price should 
return good dividends to the mill, for 
the cost of making this sort of fabric 
is not much ove% if it is any over, 20 
cents per pound, thus leaving the mill 
about 4| cents per pound profit, or 
nearly \\ cents per yard, an amount 
which even a fine and fancy mill will 
seldom average for profits. 

One interesting feature regarding 
the cloth is that the material or cot- 
ton of which it is composed forms 
quite a large proportion of the cost 
of making, in many instances, it being 
over 7-5 per cent of the total cost, leav- 
ing the remainder for the various 
items of expense, depreciation, labor, 
etc. The labor cost per pound is a 
comparatively small amount, because 
the average production per operative 
is quite large. The cost of having 
this fabric finished is If cents per 
yard and together with the expenses 
of selling, etc., which a converter 
would have, the cost to him would be 
probably about 10J to 11 cents per 
yard. Under this condition the sell- 
ing price to the jobber would be about 
15 cents and from the jobber to the 
retailer, about 16 \ cents per yard, thus 
placing the fabric easily in the 25- 
cent class to consumers. 

A good many sellers have sold such 
fabrics at the above prices, but retail 
prices do not always coincide with 
those planned when the cloth was 
bought from the mill, because retail 
prices vary in certain instances to 
as high as 32 to 35 cents per 
yard for fabrics which appear identi- 
cal with that which has been analyzed. 



Apparently, the consumer is sometimes 
paying from 25 to 40 per cent more 
than should be noted, in addition to 
the satisfactory profits which the vari- 
ous sellers are obtaining when the fab- 
ric is sold at the intended price or 
25 cents per yard at retail. 

CbOTH WEIGHTS. 

As previously stated, fabrics which 
are used for the purposes described, 
are rather heavy in weight, because 
the sizes of yarn used are heavy, and 
it is seldom that the cloth weight is 
lighter than 4 yards per pound, or 
4 ounces per yard, for 36-inch wide 
goods. We will not consider the 
weights of either the yarn or the cloth 
when the material has been finished, 
because at that time the weights are 
not the same as when the cloth is wov- 
en, and the weight is not considered 
by any of the various buyers or sell- 
ers, with the exception of the convert- 
er or buyer who purchases or han- 
dles the goods when they were first 
woven. The warp yarn sizes 8-1 when 
it is woven and the filling sizes 9.5-1. 
The details for the cloth are as fol- 
lows: 

Width of warp in reed 37% inches. 
Width of cloth, grey 36 inches. 
Width of cloth finished 34 inches. 
Ends per inch finished 35 inches. 
Reed 32 X 1 or 16 X 2. 
Ends in. warp. 1,208, total. 
Warp yarn 8/1. 
Filling yarn 9.5/1. 
Picks per inch 26. 
Warp take-up 5%. 
Warp weight, grey .1892. 
Filling weight, grey .1222. 
Total weight per yard, grey .3114. 
Yards per pound, grey 3.21. 
The fabric as sold, 5 oz. per yard. 
Plain weave. 

Selvages, 8 crowded ends each edge of the 
fabric. 

The warp yarns which compose a 
fabric such as that analyzed are usu- 
ally sized quite a little so as to make 
better work in the weave room, and, 
in some instances, to give weight to 
the fabric. Probably the ordinary 
amount of size as applied to a fabric 
of this character would be from 7£ 
to 10 per cent, thus making a yarn 
which had a size of 10s-l on the spin- 
ning frame then come about 9s-l as 
it enters the loom. The operation of 
the loom is likely to rub off some of 
the cotton fibres and size, and this 



20 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



makes the yarn somewhat finer than 
it was on the loom beam, but not so 
fine as when first spun, so that the 
cloth is somewhat heavier than the 
spinning frame yarn sizes would indi- 
cate. 

A good many manufacturers allow 
for this added weight when arriving 
at their cloth weights, while others 
do not. If some such arrangement is 
not used, the cloth weights as sold 
will be heavier than other manufac- 
turers are delivering. The size which 
is applied is entirely washed out when 
the material is bleached, and unless 
more is added in the finishing process, 
the cloth is lighter when sold than 
it is when woven. In addition to the 
loss due to size, there is a stretching 
and pulling of the fabric which usu- 
ally makes it lighter per yard, and 
besides there are losses caused by 
the bleaching process. 

There are also other factors which 
affect the cloth losses, and in ex- 
ceptionally few cases cloth gains, 
such as the kind of cotton used, the 
amount of twist which the 
yarn contains, the cloth con- 
struction used, the method of finish- 
ing, and the kind of dyestuff used. 
Short cotton will cause greater losses 
than longer staple, a soft 
twist yarn will lose more than 
a hard twist one, and there will be 
more friction and a greater resulting 
loss in a firmly constructed fabric 
than one where there are few threads 
and picks per inch. Mercerization 
and other details of finishing also 
affect the result, and dyeing is likely to 
add somewhat to the weight, although 
in cotton finishing results these 
changes are in no case comparable to 
those noted when other materials are 
being dyed. There are other condi- 
tions which may at times affect the 
results, so that the same fa/bric or 
the same yarn when finished may ap- 
pear to have been entirely different 
when first made, whereas their changed 
appearance is due entirely to the pro- 
cesses through which they have gone. 

FINISHING. 

The first step in the finishing of a 
fabric such as that considered is no 
different than that employed on very 



many other similar fabrics which are 
to be used for dress goods, for they 
are bleached and handled in a manner 
similar to that ordinarily employed in 
bleaching. After the cloth has been 
bleached, instead of being sold in this 
condition, it is subjected to a process 
of mercerization, and this is the method 
by which the glossy appearance is im- 
parted and which makes it possible 
to use the material in imitation of 
linens. 

How much the mercerization process 
has improved in results and the influ- 
ence it is exerting generally on a 
great many classes of fabrics is clear- 
ly shown by the fabrics analyzed. 
Only a comparatively short time ago, 
mercerization was not applied to yarns 
or fabrics made from short staples of 
cotton, for the results were not espe- 
cially good, but it is now seen that 
the poor results were not caused so 
much by the short fibres not merceriz- 
ing as it was because there was so 
much twist placed in yarns which were 
composed of short fibre cotton. This 
large amount of twist, which was nec- 
essary to give the yarn strength, de- 
tracted a great deal from the lustre 
which could be imparted, because the 
fibres did not have their parallel posi- 
tion by which the greatest amount of 
lustre was imparted. When a yarn is 
soft twisted a longer staple of cotton 
is used and this allows the fibres to 
lie more nearly parallel, so that it was 
practical rather than theoretical diffi- 
culties which made the mercerization 
process undesirable, excepting for the 
better cloths, a short time ago. 

Not only has the process been im- 
proved greatly, so that results are 
good even on low quality of cloths, 
but the costs of application have de- 
clined quite a little, so that this fact 
makes it possible to apply the process 
extensively, whereas the price alone 
a short time aso prohibited its use 
somewhat. Note the cost which we 
have given in arriving at the cost of 
the goods. This is 13 cents per yard 
and it includes bleaching, dyeing, mer- 
cerizing and the other processes which 
go to make a finished fabric such as 
that described. 

Expensive flnishine: processes are not 
often available for the cheaper grades 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



21 



of fabrics, for they place them in 
a higher range of prices, for which they 
cannot always be sold, and in any case 
curtail their distribution quite exten- 
sively. Sometimes, in finishing, starch 
is added to give fullness to these fab- 
rics, but when this is done, some kind 
of a softener is also applied to give the 
cloth the soft effect desired. A light 
calendering is sometimes used, 
although it is not especial- 
ly necessary when the fab- 
ric has had a good mercerization 
process. As a general statement it 
can be said that the application of fin- 
ishes to fabrics and the combination 
of weaves and stripes to make desir- 
able finished materials have improved 
very much during the past five years, 
which is a good indication regarding 
what the future of the industry will 
be. A good many converters are just 
beginning to realize the possibilities 
of the various fabrics, and the methods 
of finishing which are available, and 
the results have been surprisingly 
good when comparisons are made. 

YARNS. 

The yarns used in these cloths are 
very uneven, in fact, the more irregu- 
larity they show, the better 
is the cloth produced, so 

that it might be said that the 
making of the cloth lies largely in 
the yarns which are used in weaving 
it. The cotton staple used is likely 
to be short, about the shortest which 
is obtainable in the domestic market, 
and often waste of various 
kinds is used to make the yarns pro- 
duced more uneven. Inasmuch as un- 
even results are desirable, it is often 
advisable to crowd the machines up 
to the limit of their capacity, although 
even for this kind of work, there is a 
limit beyond which it is uneconomical 
to go in the making of any yarn, that 
is, it would not be a good policy to 
have the yarn so poor that the per- 
centage of production on the loom is 
very low, because weaving is an ex- 
pensive process. 

The mixture of short waste does not 
draw like the other cotton, and helps 
in making uneven roving and yarn. 
The sliver can be run heavier than it 
can even for ordinary cloths such as 



prints, sheetings, etc., and possibly a 
70-grain finisher sliver could be used 
satisfactorily. It might also be pos- 
sible to cut out one of the processes 
of roving frames and make the yarn 
on two processes instead of on three, 
as is ordinarily- noted. In some cases, 
it is entirely possible and probably 
more economical to use single roving 
for spinning, for the yarn is heavy 
and should cause little trouble even if 
it is not as strong as it naturally 
would be for the sizes of yarn used. 
The finished hank roving which is used 
on the spinning frame might be from 
1 to 1J, for this would tend to develop 
a more irregular fabric than if more 
doublings were used. 

In making such yarns as those con- 
sidered there is as little waste as pos- 
sible taken out in the various machines 
through which the cotton passes for 
short fibres, and bunches are of de- 
cided advantage instead of being ob- 
jectionable as they are in ordinary 
yarns. The main idea in the production 
of any uneven fabric such as that con- 
sidered is to get the cotton into a 
workable yarn of the size desired in 
as quick and cheap a manner as pos- 
sible, and the plan of production 
'should be made accordingly. 

DYEING PARTICULARS. 

ORANGE. 

Toluylene Fast Orange L X 1%%. 
10-30% Glauber's salt crystals. 
1-2% soda ash. 

Enter at boiling point and work with the 
steam turned off. 

RED. 

Benso fast eosine B L 2%. 
20-60% Glauber's salt crystals. 
1-2% soda ash. 

Enter at boiling point and work with the 
steam turned off. 

BLUE. 

Oxamine Blue 3 B M %%. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 



Stilbene yellow 2 G P extra cons. 1%. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 

PINK. 

Benso fast eosine B L %%. 

20-60% Glauber's salt crystals. 

1-2% soda ash. 

Enter at a rather low temperature and 

warm up rather slowly. 
The Glauber's salt is added subsequently 

and in several portions. 



22 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



HELIOTROPE. 

Benso fast heliotrope % %. 
10-30% Glauber's salt crystals. 
1-2% soda ash. 

Enter at boiling- point and work with the 
steam turned off. 

BROWN. 

Cotton Brown G 2 %%. 
10-20% Glauber's salt crystals. 



CREPE FABRICS 

There is a continual change in the 
styles of fabrics in demand on ordi- 
nary cotton dress goods. One year 



Voiles when first produced did not 
show the same results which they re- 
cently have, and through the addition 
of silk stripes and a more attractive 
finish, they have been good sellers 
for some time. Novelty yarn effects, 
such as are used in the ordinary 
eponge fabrics, had been selling well 
for some time, but this had been ac- 
complished by adding these features 
to voiles and other ground fabrics. 
Possibly, the present season there has 
been a better sale for crepes and crepe 
effects than there ever has in the past, 
and for this reason, it may be well to 
consider certain of such fabrics and 
their method of production. 



/n\77V 




Fabric For Which Cost and Analysis Is Given. 



Bedford cords will be used extensively, 
another season voiles will be stylish, 
and other years, radically different 
materials will be sold and used ex- 
tensively, and when such a fabric is in 
demand, it will be likely to return 
larger dividends than at other times 
to cloth makers and sellers. By com- 
bining various weaves and styles and 
producing a somewhat different effect 
the cloth styles will often last or sell 
well more than a single season, and 
this policy is generally taken by man- 
ufacturers. 



In a general way, it can be said that 
there are many uses for such cloths, 
and this affords a large production and 
distribution, not only when there is an 
exceptional demand, but regularly 
year in and year out. They are used 
in the plain state and are also com- 
bined with silk and other materials 
in stripes and checks, for waistings 
and various kinds of dress materials. 
In certain instances they are used for 
men's shirtings, and they are also 
used in large quantities for the low- 
priced kimonos, dressing sacques and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



,ther similar articles. The lighter 
weight materials are the ones which 
are ordinarily used for dresses, while 
the heavier fabrics are used for some 
of the other purposes mentioned. The 
materials when sold are of a widely 
different appearance, not only in 
weight, some being light enough to 
be used as over-dresses, but also as 
to the effects produced on them. 
Crepes have been produced for a long 
time, not only on the domestic mar- 
ket, but also in foreign countries, and 
on both power and hand looms, al- 



When a fabric is made with a low 
count, such as is seen on voiles and 
crepes, it is practically always the 
ca?e that plain weave is used in their 
production, inasmuch as this method 
gives the greatest amount of firmness 
with the fewest number of threads 
and picks per inch. Of course, many 
of such materials are woven on dobby 
and jacquard looms, but this is not 
because the ground weave or crepe 
portion of the cloth demands it, but 
because of the special weave made nec- 
essary to obtain the effects desired. 




The Striped Crepe Analyzed. 



though it is probable that the fabrics 
now being sold are an improvement 
on anything formerly produced,, at 
least in cotton cloth. A good many 
of the high-class crepe materials now 
being sold are woven with silk stripes, 
which contain jacquard figures with 
novelty yarn in stripes and checks, and 
even in complicated leno fabrics there 
are yarns used, which, when the cloth 
is finished, gives a combination crepe 
fabric. 

An ordinary crepe fabric is made 
with a rather low count, for unless 
this were done, there would not be 
opportunity for the yarns to contract 
and the crinkled effect to be produced. 



A good many ordinary crepe fabrics 
can be and are made on automatic 
looms, and through such means the 
cost of production is appreciably low- 
ered. This can be done, because, on the 
ordinary fabrics, the yarns are rather 
coarse in size, and, necessarily, strong, 
and also because plain weave is used, 
making exceptional ability on the part 
of the operative unnecessary. 

The one fact which is largely re- 
sponsible for the producing of 

THE CREPE EFFECT 

is the amount of twist which 
is given to the filling in the 
production of such cloth. In a cer- 



24 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tain few instances, the warp yarn is 
made with a small amount of extra 
crisp, but usually the warp yarn in 
a crepe fabric is absolutely no differ- 
ent from that of an ordinary fabric. 
In the production of cloth which is to 
be piece mercerized, the standard of 
twist in the filling yarn will be from 
2% to three times the square root 
of the yarn size; on ordinary fabrics 
the twist standard of the filling is like- 
ly to be from 3% to 33, while if the 
filling is to be used for a crepe ma- 
terial, the standard of twist is likely 
to vary from six to as high as nine 
times the square root of the yarn size. 
This extra amount of twist will 
make the filling yarn kink up if it is 
unwound from a filling bobbin, and 
when a cloth is woven and immersed 
in hot water, the same effects are 
noted in the cloth. Because of this 
shrinkage, it is necessary to set the 
twist in the yarn so that it can be 
used in the weaving operation. This 
is done in a number of methods, de- 
pending on the mill system being 
used, but possibly the method having 
the largest use is to place the filling 
bobbins as they come from the spin- 
ning frame in a box where they are 
treated with live steam. Tbis is the 
process which is ordinarily used for 
grey, hard twist filling yarn. In order 
to have the yarn clean and the bobbin 
unaffected by this steaming process, 
it is necessary to use enameled bob- 
bins in the spinning room. 

HARD TWIST YARNS 
will vary in size to a somewhat great- 
er extent than regular yarns, and as 
there is a certain amount of contrac- 
tion when spinning, the yarn size is 
likely to be heavier than the frame 
drafts and roving size would indicate. 
Usually changes are made in the 
drafts of the frames until the result- 
ing yarn size is the one desired. Nat- 
urally, when a yarn has an extra 
amount of twist inserted, it will lose 
a good deal of its strength, for a yarn 
is strongest with a standard of about 
4% times the square root of the yarn 
size, and not only does the above oc- 
cur, but the production per spindle 
will decrease radically and this fact 
affects the cost of production. In 
ordinary crepes the filling yarn Is 



hard twisted in the same direction 
as for ordinary filling, only there is 
a greater amount of twist inserted, but 
there are other crepe fabrics in which 
filling is used with both regular and 
reverse twist. Such kinds of cloth 
are necessarily woven on a box loom 
and by far the largest amount of such 
fabrics is produced with two picks 
of regular twist and two picks of re- 
verse twist fillings, although quite 
large quantities are made in which the 
picking is one of regular and one of 
reverse twist. When cloth is made 
from regular and reverse twisted 
yarns, it can be easily distinguished 
from that made with only one kind 
of twist, because in the first instance, 
there is a regular shrinkage of the 
cloth with one kind of filling acting 
against the other in producing the 
crepe effect, while in the second meth- 
od the filling all shrinks in the same 
direction, thus producing a fabric 
which contains a wavy appearance. 
Most of the ordinary cheap crepe fab- 
rics are made with filling of only one 
twist, while a good many of the more 
expensive lines contain regular and 
reverse twisted yarn. 

METHOD OF PRODUCING. 
There are a great many kinds of 
crepe fabrics, different not only be- 
cause of their cloth construction, yarn 
sizes and woven patterns, but also be- 
cause there are entirely different 
methods of production used. 
First, there is the method by 
which the majority of ordinary crepes 
are produced, namely their making 
from grey yarns. Fabrics made 
through this method, are often dec- 
orated by stripes and checks not only 
of cotton, but also of silk, and when 
silk is used a fancy weave is often 
employed. When these cloths are 
made entirely of plain weave they can 
be sold in the white state or any 
piece dyed color, or they can be print- 
ed in almost any style of pattern or 
colors, and, without doubt, more of the 
coarser cloths are sold in the printed 
state than in any other form. For a 
real crepe fabric, it is cheaper to pro- 
duce in the grey cloth method than 
in any other, and this is probably the 
reason why these cloths form the bulk 
of the sale. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



A second method is to produce the 
cloth from bleached and dyed yarns, 
thus producing woven stripes 
similar in appearance to the styles 
used in ordinary shirtings. In fact, 
this method is used extensively when 
the fabrics are to be used for shirt- 
ings. The introduction of fast colors 
which will stand the bleaching opera- 
tion is, however, likely to result in 
fewer of such materials being pro- 
duced, and it is radically cheaper 
to-day to make these lines, with the 
exception of the cloths which contain 
a large proportion of color by the grey 



sider it as a seersucker effect, and 
while it naturally belongs in the seer 
sucker class, it is being sold as i 
crepe and in competition with it, and 
should be included in the general de- 
scription. A good many sellers have 
not considered certain of the results 
which mercerization causes. To-day 
most sellers are familiar with the fact 
that a lustre is imparted when cloth 
is treated with a solution of caustic 
soda and held out tightly, but they 
do not always know that cloth treat- 
ed with the same solution and not 
held out will shrink radically. Upon 




A Crinkled Crepe Produced by Mercerizing Process. 



cloth method. There are also a few 
crepe fabrics which are produced by 
a method of pressing, but the quan- 
tity produced is very small, and the 
cloth cannot be washed and still re- 
tain the effect which it contained, so 
it is not an actual crepe fabric. 

RESULTS OF MERCERIZATION. 

Another method of production 
which might be considered, for it is 
having a very large use at present, 
is that which results in making a 
crinkled effect by the mercerization 
process. Some sellers class the fabric 
produced as a crepe while others con- 



the above fact the production of tnis 
class of seersucker or crepe is based. 
An ordinary fabric is printed with 
a paste or solution, and where this is 
applied the fabric will ; shrink* and 
one portion of the fabric being; treat- 
ed causes the portion pot treated to 
shrink up or crinkle, producing 
the crepe effect. Many of: such fab- 
rics are sold in the , white or colored 
state, but there are many others 
which have in addition "to the crinkled 
effect a printed pattern applied, the 
variety being just about as large as 
it is for ordinary dress materials. One 
feature which has to be considered 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



when such a method is used is that 
there is a large working loss in the 
cloth yardage treated, and the amount 
received by the buyer, and this in- 
creases the cloth cost quite radically. 
Finishers require a large working 
loss clause in their contracts, but 
often do not hold themselves to the 
amount stipulated. Generally, the 
actual loss in yards received and de- 
livered is from 18 per cent to 20 per 
cent. The amount an ordinary crepe 
fabric will shrink in width in the fin- 
ishing operation is from 25 per cent 
to 30 per cent, although there is a 
wider variation than this due to the 
results desired. The harder the fill- 
ing yarn is twisted, the greater the 
amount the fabric will shrink or crepe 
within reasonable limits, but it is 
usually the case that the cloth is not 
finished as narrow as it actually will 
shrink. Naturally, the warp count 
when finished is radically higher than 
it is when the cloth is first woven. It 
is sometimes the case that certain 
of the better fabrics are not merely 
shrunk by hot water, but they are giv- 
en a processing in caustic soda solu- 
tion, which method gives them an ef- 
fect which is otherwise not obtain- 
able, for it makes the yarn softer and 
adds to the cloth attractiveness. 

FANCY PATTERNS. 

A good many crepe fabrics are made 
with warp which is entirely silk, and 
such fabrics are often decorated with 
fancy jacquard figures or by stripes 
of various kinds. The filling used in 
such fabrics is single hard twist yarns, 
although in certain instances two-ply 
filling is used, and in the filling there 
can be either one direction of twist 
or the cloth can be woven on a box 
loom with regular and reverse twist- 
ed yarn, possibly the second method 
is more extensively used in the pro- 
duction of high-class crepes. In the 
making of patterns for such fabrics 



there are a number of facts to be con- 
sidered which makes the problem 
somewhat different from ordinary 
work. In the first place, there are 
only a comparatively few picks per 
inch in the cloth, and care must be 
used so that the patterns will show 
the best results possible. There is 
also likely to be a certain amount of 
stretch in finishing, and this should 
be considered when making the de- 
sign, for the cloth is sold finished to 
the consumers, and not in the grey 
state. The 

LARGE SHRINKAGE IN WIDTH, 

at least, must be considered, if the 
other facts are ignored; thus, a fabric 
which counts, say, 96 threads when 
«t comes from the loom, may count 
130, or even more, when it is finished, 
so that a pattern which is correct for 
the grey material will be out of pro- 
portion when the cloth is finished. For 
this reason, a good many patterns 
have to be wider in the grey cloth 
than they would be in any other case, 
and do not look right, but when the 
cloth is finished the correct results 
are shown. This condition should be 
regulated on the design paper, which 
is used in planning the pattern. That 
is, a fabric might call for a design 
paper which was 12x7 if the grey 
count were considered, whereas it 
would actually need a paper which 
was 12x5 if the conditions of finish- 
ing be correctly considered. On cer- 
tain of these crepe fabrics, it is true 
that the shrinkage in count is not so 
great as the width would indicate, for 
there is a certain waviness in the 
cloth which will affect the pattern, 
inasmuch as there are so few picks 
per inch in the woven fabric, care 
must be used to break up the figures, 
so that there will be no iong floats 
to make the fabric objectionable. 
Practically all fabrics are produced 
with plain weave grounds, so that the 
making of the design is a rather sim- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



27 



pie process. As previously explained, 
plain weave is necessary, if the fabric 
is to have a sufficient amount of firm- 
ness and if the threads are to remain 
in their respective positions. 

YARNS AND WEIGHTS. 

The yarns used in crepe fabrics are 
of widely different quality and sizes, 
because the range of fabric quality is 
so great. Some of the low-priced ma- 
terials are made with yarns which 
are not better than those used in the 
most common materials, and in sucb 
cases the yarn production is large 
and the stock used not of especially 
bigh quality. In other materials, fine 
or rather fine yarns are used and the 
stock is of high quality and often 
combed and a good deal of care is 
used in producing, in fact, more care 
than is noted on most kinds of fancy 
fabrics. We present in another por- 
tion of this description an analysis 
with costs of one of the most com- 
mon crepes sold, but following is an 
analysis of an imported crepe which 
contains dyed yarns: 

Width of warp in reed, 59% inches. 
Width of cloth from loom, 56 inches. 
Width of cloth finished, 44 inches. 
Threads per inch, finished, 72. 
Reed, 27 X 2. 

2 £ 

Ends in the warp — 3.2C0 — = 3,232, total 

8 S 

ends. 
Warp yarn size 40/1. 
Filling yarn si^e 3 0/1 hard twist. 
Picks per inch finished, 47. 
Total warp take-up. 12%. 
Warp weight. .1093. 
Filling weight, .1110. 

Total A-eignt per yard finished, .2203. 
Yaids per pound finished, 4.54. 
Plain weave. 
Warp dressed 12 ends white, 4 ends black. 

The yarns used would be made from 
roving of similar sizes to those used 
for ordinary yarn of tbe same size, 
except that for fine filling it is better 
to have roving finer than the yarn size 
indicated would require, due to the 
contraction of twist. 

A correct estimate should be made 
of the losses sustained when obtain- 



ing the sizes of the original grey 
yarns used. Take the fabric for 
which the cost is given. On this the 
warp in the finished cloth actually 
sized 39%, while the filling sized about 
22y 2 , whereas 36 warp and 20 filling 
were used. This shows that the sizes 
are much finer in finished fabrics than 
many, have been accustomed to be 
lieve, and this fabric has been printed 
a fact that is likely to add some 
weight to the yarn. 

THE WARP LOSS 

is not entirely clue to the bleaching, 
loss in size, and weaving operation, 
but a portion of it is due to the stretch 
which is given the cloth in finishing 
as can be noted from tht: picks, 40 
when the cloth was in the grey state 
and 37 when it was finished. Not all 
of this stretch is actual gain in yard- 
age to the finisher, but, without doubt, 
the extra amount obtained is at least 
5 per cent or 6 per cent. When ob- 
taining the yarn sizes for a crepe fab- 
ric which has been produced by the 
mercerization process, it is a good 
plan to size the yarn from the crinkled 
portion of the cloth, for this is the 
yarn which has not been shrunk be- 
low its actual size by the method of 
finishing used. Note the cloth weights 
(5.32 in the grey state and 6.10, or 
about this amount, when finished), 
which fact shows in a general way 
what the cloth losses are when this 
kind of crepe fabric is being pro- 
duced. The method of obtaining the 
weights of the yarn used and the cloth 
weight when woven is as follows: 

2,388 ends -v- (840 X 36/1) = .0790, weight 

of warp withaut take-up. 
5% take-up in weaving. 
.0790 -^ .95 = .0832, total weight of warp 

yarn per yard of cloth. 
40 picks per in. X 44" width in reed X 36" 

36" 

1.760 yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,760 -¥- (840 X 20/1) = .1048, total weight 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
.0832 + .1048 = .1880, total weight per 

yard. 
1.0000 -r- .1880 == 5.32 yards per pound 

(grey). 



28 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



PATTERN. 
2 2 

S6/1 Am. carded warp — 2,364 — = 2,388, total ends. 

6 6 

20/1 Am. carded filling, hard twist, 40 picks. 
27 reed, 44" width in teed, 41" grey width, 30" finished width. 
58 X 40 grey count, 79 X 37 finished count 

YARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton. waste, etc. 
36/1 Am. carded warp, 1%" staple, 8 hank double, 15 'Ac. 8c. = 23>4c. 

20/1 Am. carded filling, 1% " staple, 4.75 hank double, 13Vic. 6%c. = 19!&c. 

COST. 

2,388 ends 36/1 Am. carded warp + 5% take-up = .0832 @ 23 Y* c = 1 .0194 

40 picks 20/1 Am. carded filling, hard twist = .1048 @ 19 ^c =■= .0206 

Weaving .0020 

Expenses .0038 

$ .0457 
Selling (grey) .0018 

Mill cost $ .0475 

Mill selling price to converter .0537 

Cost of crepeing, bleaching and printing .0300 

Cost of selling, etc .0125 

Cost to converter .0962 

Cost to jobber .1125 

Cost to retailer .1300 

Cost to consumer .1800 

Yards per pound, 5.32 (grey). 

Yards per pound, 6.10 (finished). 

Plain weave. 

*-*-* 



COUTIL OR CORSET CLOTH 

In preparing the new edition of our 
"Cotton Fabrics' Glossary" it becomes 
necessary to consider many cloth 
constructions which had not appear- 
ed three or four years ago. Improve- 
ments in the construction of cotton 
machinery and the accompanying de- 
velopment which has made possible the 
use of cotton fibres which were origi- 
nally considered too short to be of 
much value have led to entirely new 
fabrics and to new modifications of old 
ones. 

One fabric which is seldom men- 
tioned as forming any great portion 
of textile sales, but which neverthe- 
less is of quite large importance, is 
the general class of fabrics known as 
coutils. Possibly the production of 
the above named material is as reg- 
ular as any of the numerous novelty 
or special constructions made, and 
while the weave, count and yarns 
used will vary, the general character 
of the cloth does not change as much 
as it does in other lines. 

Dress goods colors, styles, weaves 
and cloth constructions will vary rad- 
ically in different years, but, due to 



certain fundamental necessities, cou- 
als might be called more or less a 
staple fancy product. Of course, 
there are different qualities of these 
materials which sell at various prices, 
just as in any other lines, but the re- 
sults are more limited in such fab- 
rics. In general, these materials are 
used largely in the white state, as 
there is great objection to dyed 
goods for such uses. Then there must 
be a construction used which will 
give a great deal of strength and 
wear. 
Most users of these fabrics test 

THE BREAKING STRENGTH 

of the cloth which they purchase, and 
unless deliveries are satisfactory in 
this regard there is likely to be a 
great deal of friction between buyer 
and seller, and, without doubt, this 
is the reason why a good many mills 
do not care to attempt to produce 
them. Probably the lar^t.t portion 
of coutil production is used in the 
making of corsets, but It is also 
utilized in other ways, su<„h as bands 
for children's garments where there 
is likely to be a good deal of wear 
and tear, and in other similar meth- 
ods, and recently we have been 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



29 



brought in contact with a firm which 
claims to export as much as 50,000 
pieces a year of a fabric such as that 
analyzed. 

It has been generally supposed that 
very little of such material was sold 
outside of the domestic market, for 
the price is high, and conditions of 
: making are such that the labor costs 
form a comparatively large portion of 
the total cost. The use which is made 
of this exported cloth is one not usual- 
ly noted, lor it is made into white 
suits of various kinds whijh receive 
a good deal of wear, at least this is 
the use which the exporters claim is 
m~de of it. Probably there are not 
over half a dozen manufacturers in 
the domestic market who produce a. 
high class coutil fabric such as that 
analyzed. 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 

Considered as a fabric, coutils are 
not radically different from many of 
the ordinary cloths which are made 
and sold in enormous quantities. It 
is the weight and strength and the 
difficulties encountered in obtaining 
these that make care necessary. Gen- 
erally, the weave which is employed 
is a five-harness warp satin, although 
it may be some other similar weave. 
In some instances, jacquard or dobby 
patterns are employed, but when this 
is done, it is usually with a satin 
ground effect, while in special cases 
certain constructions are made with 
plain weaves. 

The reason a satin or a similar 
weave is used is because, through 
such a method, a high cloth count can 
be obtained, also the requisite 
strength. Of course, strength can be 
obtained by the use of plain weave 
together with heavy yarn, but such 
cloth would have no sale for corsets, 
for, in addition to strength, a smooth, 
good looking cloth is necessary, and 
the use of a satin weave answers 
both purposes. Whenever a fabric is 
made with a satin weave a high count 
is necessary, so that the cloth will 
be firm, and although coutils are high- 
count materials they are likely to be 
quite heavy in weight. Not only is 
the warp count high just the same 
as it is in galateas and similar lines, 
but the filling count is also high, al- 



though it is not usually quite so high 
as it is in the warp. Although the 
yarns used are rather coarse in size, 
when compared with those used in 
lawns and similar fine yarn lines, 
they are often made from combed 
stock, and this fact adds much to the 
cost of production. 

Combed yarns not only produce a 
better appearing fabric, and one con- 
taining a greater amount of strength, 
but they also make the weaving of 
cloth an easier problem from a man- 
ufacturing standpoint, for the warp 
breakages are much fewer in num- 
ber. One fact in weaving such ma- 
terials is that quality is one of the 
prime necessities, and many fabrics 
which are considered seconds in such 
production would be ranked as firsts 
were their conditions of selling not 
so strict. Because there is a good 
deal of strength necessary it is often 
the case that ply combed yarns are 
used in making the cloth, not only in 
the warp but also in the filling. When 
this is done, the yarn sizes are natu- 
rally finer than when single yarns are 
used. This method of manufacturing 
produces a better and stronger cloth, 
but it increases the cost of making 
quite radically. 

LOOM USED. 

So far as the weave and the yarn 
used are concerned, it might be con- 
sidered that automatic looms would 
be suitable for producing such mate- 
rials, but there are certain other fea- 
tures which, up to the present time, 
have made it more or less necessary 
for non-automatic looms to be used. 
One item is that the weave is likely 
to vary quite a little in the number 
of harnesses necessary to produce. 

Another is that high quality pro- 
duction is necessary, a condition 
which is not always true when auto- 
matic looms are used, and another is 
that the ratio of saving made possible 
by the use of automatic looms is not 
so large as it is on cheaper ordinary 
fabrics. A saving of a cent or more 
a pound is not of so great moment 
in a fabric which sells for 15 or 20 
cents a yard as it is in a fabric which 
sells for less than 5 cents a yard. 
Because the cloth is very firm with 
a high count and rather coarse yarns, 



30 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



it is necessary for it to be woven on 
a loom which is much heavier than 
that used in producing ordinary fancy 
fabrics. Unless this were done, poor 
cloth would result and the light loom 
would be knocked to pieces in a com- 
paratively short time. 

WOVEN FACE DOWN. 

In making satin weave cloths it is 
often the practice to weave the cloth 
face down in the loom, as this makes 
it necessary for the loom to lift but 
one-fifth of the warp instead of four- 
fifths at every pick, that is, if the 
weave happens to be a five-harness 
warp satin. A good deal of judgment 
nas to be used in the method which 
is employed, for it is sometimes bet- 
ter to weave a cloth face up, espe- 
cially i* the weaving is very difficult. 
Inasmuch as the warp contains a 
large number of threads of rather 
coarse yarn, it is necessary to use a 
great deal of care in the placing of 
the yarn on the loom beam. 

Any irregularities of tension or 
other features which are of little ac- 
count in ordinary fabrics will cause 
very evident streaks and much 
trouble in coutil fabrics, at least in 
the high-class ones. It is usually the 
custom to use a reed in making these 
materials which corresponds with the 
fabric weave used. That is, if a five- 
harness weave is used, the warp will 
be reeded five threads per dent, and 
if another weave be used a different 
arrangement would be made. 

This policy will result in less 
streaks than through any other meth- 
od, and allows a rather coarse reed 
to be used, a fact which results in 
more space being available for the 
operation of the heavy warp. The 
choosing of a correct reed has much 
to do with the satisfactory production 
of many kinds of cotton cloth. Some 
manufacturers are inclined to always 
use a reed which permits two ends 
per dent just because the lines of 
cloth which they have regularly pro- 
duced are made in this manner, but 
it often happens that when a mill's 
cloth constructions vary widely other 
methods are better on certain fabrics. 
Sometimes it is necessary to use a 
coarse reed, because yarn knots 
on heavy material will not pass 



through without breaking. In other 
cases, a high warp count and with a 
reeding of two in a dent will cause 
excessive friction and breakage, with 
a low percentage of loom production. 
Then in certain other fabrics the use 
of a coarse reed with quite a number 
of ends per dent is often objection- 
able, because in finishing the reed 
marks cannot be entirely taken out. 
One reason why grey yarn fabrics 
look much smoother than similar yarn 
bleached, or dyed materials, is because 
one is likely to contain very evident 
reed marks when sold, while the other 
is not. One problem which often 
causes a great deal of trouble when 
coutils are being produced is the con- 
struction of the selvages. When 
these are made from the same warp 
as the ground of the fabric, it is very 
likely that unless the right number 
of threads per dent are used the 
edges will curl up or will not appear 
smooth like the body of the fabric, 
and will cause a large amount of crit- 
icism. 

Because of the uses of the fabric be 
ing considered it is not necessary in 
many instances to have any decora- 
tion applied to the fabric so as tc 
make it more attractive. Whenever 
such decoration is desired, it is usu- 
ally applied by methods in the weave 
rather than by dyeing or printing, but 
in the large majority of instances the 
cloth is sold in the white state and 
with a comparatively simple weave. 
Naturally, the above conditions make 
the operation of finishing a rather 
simple one, for all that is necessary 
is to bleach the cloth and 
handle it in a similar manner to that 
on fabrics which are sold in the white 
state. 

Many ordinary fabrics when sold 
are also sized or starched a good deal, 
and some of the cheaper lines aro 
filled with clay or some similar sub 
stance, but the firmness of coutil fab- 
rics makes this largely unnecessary. 
Most of these fabrics have a some- 
what higher count in the warp than 
they do in the filling, for this makes 
possible a larger loom production and 
a corresponding decrease in the cost 
of making. The price of such mate- 
rials is very high per yard when com- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



31 



pared with others which have about 
the same weight, but tbis is caused 
by the use of combed stock, the large 
number of threads and picks per inch 
and the rather small loom production. 
It is also true that the cost is high, 
because more care is necessary in 
weaving, and fewer looms can be op- 
erated per weaver than on the simi- 
lar weight ordinary fabrics. The cost 
of finishing will depend a good deal 
on the conditions governing the fab- 
ric, that is, a small order may have 
a high cost, while a larger one will 
be lower. There is this advantage, 
however, in coutils in that the order 
is usually finished entirely in the same 
method, there being no different col- 
ors or printed patterns. In general, 
the price is somewhat similar to what 
it is on other fancy white goods which 
are only bleached. 

As previously stated, the yarns 
used, when single, are quite coarse in 
size, but they are often combed, and 
so manufacturing processes are some- 
what different from those usually not- 
ed, coutil cloths are made largely by 
fancy mills, ones which have an equip- 
ment capable of producing a wide 
range of fabrics, and so the yarn prob- 
lem is not an especially difficult one. 
Naturally, when combed yarns for 
cloth are being produced it is likely 
that the staple will be as short 
as can be conveniently handled on a 
comber, and in most mills one and 
one-eighth inches is the shortest fibre 
which can be combed. Because the 
roving necessary is so coarse, it Is 
customary to use shorter drafts than 
when ordinary yarn is being made, 
for this aids in making a better yarn. 
For the two yarns used in Fabric No. 
i the layout would be somewhat as 
follows: 



30/1 

.2778 



warp. 

grains = 1 yard. 

2% contraction in twisting. 



.2722 

9.5 spinning frame d.-aft. 

2.58 -4- 2 = 1.29 = 6.46 hank roving. 

6.25 fine frame draft. 

8.06 -?- 2 = 4.03 = 2.06 hank roving. 

5.25 intermediate frame draft. 

21.16 h- 2 ' = 10.58 = .79 hank roving. 

4.25 slubber frame draft. 



24/1 filling. 

.3472 grains = 1 yard. 

.98 2% contraction in twisting. 

.3403 

7.58 spinning frame draft. 

2.58 -h 2 = 1.29 = 6.46 hank roving. 

6.25 fine frame draft. 



8.06 -h 2 = 4.03 = 2.06 hank roving. 
5.25 intermediate frarr.t- draft. 



21.16 -*- 2 = 10.58 = .79 hank roving. 
4.25 slubber frame draft. 



45 grs. finisher drawing sliver. 



45 grs. finisher drawing sliver. 

It will be noted that we have plan- 
ned the drafts for warp and filling 
so that both can be made from the 
same size of fine roving, and while 
this policy makes the spinning draft 
for filling somewhat shorter than it 
otherwise would be, it probably is a 
good plan to adopt such a method. 
The spinning drafts for both warp and 
filling can be increased somewhat, 
and the roving draft decreased to cor- 
respond, with very little difference in 
the quality of the yarn produced. In 
some cases, it is not possible to make 
warp and filling from the same size 
of roving because different stock may 
be used for the various yarns, and 
the sizes may vary so widely that 
either yarn may show some excessive 
draft, a condition which is not de- 
sirable for practically all kinds of 
yarn making. Machinery organiza- 
tions and mill working conditions 
often make it inadvisable to change 
certain yarn schedules which 
in other instances would be more 
desirable, and there is no defi- 
nite set rule as to just the exact 
means for producing the best results 
on any single yarn. 

The method of obtaining the yarn 
weights and the yards per pound of 
the woven cloth is a very simple proc- 
ess, because there are no stripes 
used or complicated methods of mak- 
ing, neither is there any great change 
from grey to finished materials, a fact 
which is not noted on a good many 
of the ordinary fabrics. Following 
are two layouts for radically different 
coutils, one made from single yarns 
and the other from ply yarns: 



32 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



FABRIC NO. 1. 
Width of warp In reed, 30% inches. 
Width of cloth grey, 28 inches. 
Width of clDth finished, 26% inches. 
Ends per inch finished, 148. 
Reed 26 X 6. 

Ends in the warp, 3,964 total. 
Warp yarn 30.5/1. 
Filling yarn 24/1. 
Picks per inch, 96. 
Warp take-up, 9%. 
Warp weight per yard, .1700. 
Filling weight per yard, .1453. 
Total weight per yard, .3153. 
Yards per pound grey, 3.17. 
Five harness warp satin weave used. 

FABRIC NO. 2. 
Width of warp in reed, 30 inches. 
Width of cloth grey, 28 inches. 
Wicth of cloth finished, 27 inches. 
Ends per inch finished, 145. 
Reed 26 X 5. 

Ends In tne warp, 3,936 total. 
Warp yarn, 70/2. 
Filling yarn, 70/3. 
Picks per inch, 92. 
Warp take-up, 10% 
Warp weight per yaid, .14^8. 
Filling weight per yard, .1408. 
Total weight per yard, .2896. 
Yards per pound grey. 3.45. 
Five harness warp satin weave used. 

The cost of making the second fab- 
ric given is much higher than for the 
first one, mainly because the yarns 
are much finer in size when 3pun, and 
this requires a longer and higher pric- 
ed cotton, and a good deal higher la- 
bor cost and expense in spinning, and 
in addition, there is the charge for 
twisting and the extra cost of han- 
dling, especially on the price of fill- 
ing, a cost which would not be not- 
ed at all if single filling had been 
used. So far as the weaving cost item 
is concerned, the difference in the 
two fabrics is not very wide. The 
method of obtaining tha yarn and 
cloth weight for Fabric No. 1 is as 
follows: 

3,694 ends -h <30%/l X 840) = .1547, 

weight of warp without take-up. 
9 % take-up in weaving. 
.1547 ■+■ .91 == .1700, total weight of warp 

per yard of cloth. 
96 picks X 30%" reed width X 36" 

= 2,928 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
, 2,928 -*- (24/1 X 840) = .1453, total weight 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
.1700 + .1453 = .3153, total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -r- .3153 = 3.17 yards per pound 

(grey). 



■♦♦ » 



CREPE DE CHINE 

One fabric which has had a more or 
less regular sale but which has of 
late been of especial interest to man- 



ufacturers and sellers is crepe de 
chine. Naturally, when this fabric is 
mentioned an all-silk material is 
brought to mind, but there are also 
cotton and silk, mixed fabrics which 
bear this name, and at certain times, 
even all-cotton fabrics have been so 
designated, by the retailer at least. 
Inasmuch as these fabrics hold such a 
large place in regular distribution a 
few facts regarding 'their appearance, 
construction and method of making 
may be of interest. All the materi- 
als which are known as crepe de 
chines have a comparatively light 
weight, and are clinging fabrics which 
are very desirable when soft 9ffects 
are in style. 

These fabrics are used extensively 
for "resses, waists, trimmings, over- 
dresses and similar purposes where 
practically no other cloth fills the pur- 
pose so well. Prices for making are 
likely to vary quite widely, due to con- 
ditions in the market for materials 
and largely due to the demand for the 
goods. Generally, the prices for most 
of the all-silk fabrics at retail will be 
from $1 to $1.50 per yard, although 
these prices in no way express the 
possible variation. 

SILK AND COTTON MIXTURES. 

The silk and cotton mixtures will 
also vary according to their construc- 
tion and the market selling conditions, 
but usually the price will be from 
25 to 50 cents a yard for ordinary ma- 
terials. The price for all-cotton fab- 
rics is largely dependent upon the 
stripes or othe - decorative cloth fea- 
tures, of which there are many. More 
often the all-cotton cloth is not called 
crepe de chine, but is simply desig- 
nated as crepe, which is a much bet- 
ter name to use, as it more definitely 
expresses to consumers and others 
the materials from which it Is made. 
The name crepe de chine has, how- 
ever, come to be more or less a term 
which designates a method of con- 
structing a cloth rather than the ma- 
terials of which it is made, for we 
have quite often seen all-silk crepe 
de chine which could hardly be dis- 
tinguished from some of the higher 
classes of cotton crepe, at least by a 
good many consumers. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



33 



In all-silk fabrics, the cloth con- 
struction will vary widely. Some of 
the warps are drawn in two-ply, that 
is, two threads work as one in the 
weaving operation, while others 
are drawn in single. One fab- 
ric which has been analyzed has a 
finished warp count of 280, with two 
threads used as one, thus making the 
warp count appear like 140 in the 
cloth, with 94 picks per inch, an- 
other has a warp count of 220, with 
the threads drawn singly and with 80 
picks per inch, and still another has a 
warp count of 125 threads and with 
76 picks. The number of the threads 
and picks per inch affects the result 
when finished somewhat, for if a 
count which is too high is used the 
fabric will not have the soft effect 
which is so desirable. This does not 
mean, however, that a low construc- 
tion is entirely suitable. In practical- 
ly all of these fabrics the lustre is 
imparted by the warp yarns. For this 
reason, the warp is likely to be of 
better silk than the filling, and not 
only better but also of finer size and 
of a higher number of threads per 
inch. The reason why the warp gives 
the cloth lustre is as follows: 

To make the soft and crepy effect 
the filling yarn both in the all-silk 
and in the silk-mixture fabrics is 
twisted harder than for ordinary 
cloth. The hard twisting of any yarn 
will so curl up the fibres that they 
will not He parallel and so will not 
reflect light and give lustre. It is 
in the yarn which is twisted the least 
that the greatest sheen appears, and 
so when the filling is hard twisted 
the opportunity for lustre from it is 
either partially or wholly destroyed. 
The filling is hard twisted rather than 
the warp, because this is the most 
economical method of making. 

Hard-twisted warp would be the 
cause of untold trouble, for it would 
make the percentage of production in 
weaving very low, create many sec- 
onds, and when the cloth was finished 
would entail a radical loss in yardage, 
thereby increasing the cost of making. 
Filling yarn has to be handled much 
less than warp, and for this reason, 
it is more economical to make hard- 
twist filling than it is warp. 



In all varieties of crepe fabrics 
there are two kinds of effects which 
can be produced with practically no 
change in the sizes of yarns used or 
in the method of construction, and 
which are easily distinguished even 
by the ordinary consumer. These 
are first the ordinary crepe de chine 
cloth, and second, the ones often des- 
ignated as crinkle crepes. The stand- 
ard of twist or the turns per inch in 
tie fillings of these two fabrics are 
often identical, and the warp counts 
often the same, but the differences 
are produced by the direction of twist 
which is inserted in the yarn. 

A crinkle crepe has filling in which 
only one twist has been applied, and 
it matters very little which direction 
of twist is used so long as it is all in 
the same direction. Crepe de chines 
are woven with filling which has two 
kinds of twist, regular and reverse. 
This fact makes it necessary that the 
cloth be produced on a box loom 
which can insert first one or more 
picks of yarn twisted in one direction 
and then insert yarn twis^d in the 
opposite direction. In the large ma- 
jority of instances when two direc- 
tions of twist are used the filling is 
placed in the cloth two picks in one 
direction and two picks of filling 
twisted in the opposite direction. 

These two twists react against each 
other, thus making the regular crepy 
appearance in crepe de chine, whereas 
when but one direction of twist is used 
the filling all twists in the same di- 
rection, making waves, or the so-call- 
ed crinkle crepe effect. Because the 
filling is hard twisted and more or 
less irregular in appearance, it is 
often the case that schappe filling is 
used so as to make a lower cost of 
production, and it is also a customary 
proceeding to use a .hard-twist Can- 
ton silk for filling, whereas in the 
warp organzine silk is used. 

It is just as important in manufac- 
turing crepes of any kind not to get 
the amount of twist excessive as it 
is not to get the twist high enough, 
for too much twist will cause exces- 
sive irregularities and add apprecia- 
tively to the cost of producing, and 
besides will cause excessive shrink- 
age in the cloth width. One feature 



34 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



regarding crepe fabrics is that the 
width of the cloth as it comes from 
the loom is much wider than it is 
when finished. That is, an all-silk fab- 
ric may be from 15 to 20 per cent 
narrower when finished than when 
woven, while a silk and cotton mixed 
fabric may have a little greater 
shrinkage, or from 20 to 25 per cent. 
These foregoing figures are only gen- 
eral ones, and special instances may 
be noted where they are exceeded, 
but they apply to very many crepe de 
chines and also to similar crinkle 
crepe fabrics. 

YARNS. 

As stated previously, the kind of 
yarns used and the amount of twist 
inserted is largely dependent on the 
cloth results which are desired and 
the price at which the cloth can be 
sold. A fact which enters into the 
cost of making crepe fabrics, but 
which is not always considered as 
carefully as it might be, is the con- 
traction in the filling yarn, due to the 
hard twisting operation. This process 
makes silk yarn heavier in size, and, 
therefore, have a smaller yardage 
per pound, and this naturally in- 
creases the cost of the cloth in which 
such yarn is used. 

The harder the yarn is twisted the 
greater the contraction is likely to be. 
Accurate tests should be made on the 
yarn previous to the weaving opera- 
tion, so as to obtain as near as pos- 
sible the average yardage in the fill- 
ing yarn. When silk mixture mate- 
rials are being made, the filling is usu- 
ally, although not always, combed 
yarn. Inasmuch as cotton yarn is 
much heavier in size than silk, the 
variation due to the contraction in 
twisting is somewhat more evident, 
but because the cotton cost in such 
cloth is a comparatively small pro- 
portion of the total cost, the variation 
does not greatly affect results, yet in 
any accurate estimates, the shrink- 
age should al .ays be considered. 
Some cotton manufacturers regulate 
their roving weights and drafts so as 
to have their finished yarn the exact 
size desired, while others take a dif- 
ferent policy ard use regular roving 
sizes, allowing the yarn to contract, 
<inrl then to use for figures the yarn 



size which is actually obtained by 
weighing. 

With silk yarn the problem is one 
very similar to that in these last- 
named cotton mills, where an allow- 
ance in size is made for the shrinkage 
due to the twist. The hard twisting 
of yarn also affects the cost of produc- 
tion, because the amount produced is 
smaller than it would be under nor- 
mal conditions. On silk yarns the 
percentage of increase on the total 
cost is not so treat as for cotton 
yarns, because the origi^l silk cost 
forms such a large proportion of the 
cost of silk yarn. For a filling of 40s-l 
the cost of spinning or hard twisting, 
including all the various items, would 
be from 12% to 15 cents per pound, 
or about twice as high as it is for 
ordinary warp yarn of the same size. 

The standard of twist which is ap- 
plied for cotton yarn for use in crepes 
is likely to be about seven and a half 
to eight times the square root of the 
yarn number, but there are cases 
where the standard is as low as six 
and as high as ten, or even higher, 
although the excessive twist does not 
seem to be of any great advantage in 
producing a better cloth effect. A 
greater amount of twist increases 
the cost of making and weakens the 
yarn, because, as the standard of 
twist advances over 4J to 45, the 
breaking strength of a yam will de- 
crease. Hard-twisted cotton yarn is 
also likely to cause a good deal of 
trouble in the spim.ing room, because 
the yarn acts more or less as a saw, 
and will cut through the travelers so 
that they will have to be renewed 
quite frequently. 

TYPICAL ANALYSES. 

One silk fabric which is an at- 
tractive material is actually construct- 
ed as follows in the finished state: 

Cloth width finished 40". 
Warp count 2S0 threads per inch. 
Warp drawn double. 
Filling count 94 picks per inch. 
Warp size 12S.500 yards per pound. 
Filling size 13S.800 yards per pound. 
Warp probably 2 thread 13/15 organzine. 
Filling probably 26/28 Canton (hard twist). 
Threads in the warp 11.296. 
Weaving take-up 3%. 
Width in reed about 48". 
Warp weight finished .0906. 
Filling weight finished .0325. 
Vards per pound finished 8.12. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



35 



It is a well-known fact that silk 
yarn when first purchased contains a 
varying amount of gum which holds 
the fibres together and which is not 
apparent on examination When boil- 
ed out, all or nearly all of this gum 
will disappear, leaving the yarn light- 
er in weight than it was when pur- 
chased. To make silk fabrics heavier 
and to appear better it is a customary 
proceeding to add weight when yarns 
or cloths are dyed, so as to more than 
offset this loss in gum, in some cases 
enough weight being added to render 
the service of the cloth rather short. 
In the sample analyzed the amount 



In the foregoing analysis the warp 
yardage has been assumed as 185,000 
yards per pound, and this figure is 
somewhat coarser than the yarn fig- 
ures would indicate, hut it is done as 
a protection for variation in silk size, 
and is a customary proceeding when 
cotton mills are making silk mixture 
fabrics. One fact of interest is that 
the yarn size and the weight of silk 
in cotton mixture fabrics are usually 
quite a little lighter than when wov- 
en, for the silk gum has been removed 
and no large amount of weight added 
to make up for this loss. On entire 
silk goods the difference is that the 




One of the New Crepe de Chine Fabrics. 



of weighting added accounts for the 
difference between the silk yardage in 
the cloth and that which the yarn size 
used would indicate when the yarn 
was first purchased. 

COTTON AND SILK MIXTURE GOODS. 

Cloth width finished 27". 
Cloth width grey 36". 
Warp count grey 97 threads per inch. 
Warp count finished 129 threads per inch. 
Filling count grey 6S picks per inch. 
Filling count finished 66 picks per inch. 
Warp size 185.000 yards per pound. 
Warp size 22/24 Italian silk. 
Filling size 40/1 hard twist cotton. 
Threads in the warp 3.500. 
Take-up in weaving 10%. 
Reed width 37". 
Warp weight grey .0210. 
Filling weight grey .0749. 
Yards per pound grey 10.43. 



yarn and cloth is usually heavier in 
the ^nished stato, for weight has been 
added to more than make up for the 
loss of the gum. 

FINISHING RESULTS. 
In general, it can be said that most 
all crepe de chines and crinkle crepes 
of the class described are piece-dyed 
fabrics, not only when composed en- 
tirely of silk but also when partially 
made of cotton. Probably a much 
larger proportion of crepe materials is 
made in the crepe de chine method 
than in the crinkle effect, and 
plain weave is employed in a large 
number of the fabrics. This does 
not mean that fancy weaves are not 



36 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



used in quite a good many of such 
materials, for they are, and with an 
additional attractiveness in the result 
obtained. Both dobby and jacquard 
effects are used, although care has 
to be exercised so that in the result 
finished the proportion of the figures 
will be correct. 

In a good many fabrics, especially 
those made partially from cottons, 

SILK STRIPES 
are introduced with advantage, and 
often make possible a better mill div- 
idend. Because the filling is hard 
twisted, it is the usual custom to 
make ail woven figures from the warp 
yarn, as this portion of the cloth is 
lustrous and produces a contrasting 
effect when compared with the ground 
fabric. The method of obtaining the 
yarn and cloth weights in a mixed ma- 
terial is as follows. 

3,500 threads -*- 185,0 ft yards = .0189, 

warp weight without cake-up. 
10% take-up in weaving. 
0189 -=- .90 = .0210, total weight of warp 

yarn per yard of cloth. 
68 picks X 37" reed width X 36" 

■ = 2,516 yds. 

36'' 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
2,516 h- (40/1 X 840) = .0749, total weight 

of lilling per yard. 
.0210 + .0749 = .0959, total weight per 

yard. 
1.0000 -s- .0959 = 10.43 yards per pound 

(grey). 



COTTON MARQUISETTE 

There are quite a number of fab- 
rics which have one name to the con- 
sumers and that are known by some 
other term to the manufacturers. This 
is largely because one of the parties 
considers the fabric weave, and the 
other the trade names. Marquisettes 
are one of such fabrics, for they are 
usually designated as plain gauze by 
the manufacturer. Gauze, considered 
as a manufacturing term, is the weave 
which is applied to the cloth, and does 
not have any reference at all to the 
material used or the construction of 
the fabric. In a general way this class 
of fabric does not have so large a 
use as many of the ordinary cloths, 
but at certain times, there is 
quite a demand with an additional 
regular sale. A few years ago 



the demand was quite extensive, and 
at present, there are more of such 
cloths being offered, so that an analy- 
sis with a short description may be of 
interest. 

These materials are used largely 
for overdresses and similar purposes, 
and while their use is likely to make 
a garment somewhat more expensive, 
it often does produce more attractive 
results, although the prevailing styles 
of garments have much to do with 
the amount of attractiveness impart- 
ed. Probably most of such cloth is 
made entirely from silk yarn, but 
there is also quite a quantity manu- 
factured from cotton and silk in com- 
bination, while many fabrics are com- 
posed entirely of cotton. 

. MAIN IDEA. 

The main idea in constructing a 
marquisette fabric is to have a very 
open material, but one in which the 
threads do not slip to any great ex- 
tent. Even when the fabric is made ' 
wholly of silk there is no great effort 
made to impart a lustrous finish, be- 
cause this is not especially desirable 
nor possible, as the threads twist so 
much. Because the texture of the 
cloth is so low and the yarns used are 
so fine, it is necessary to employ a 
weave which appears radically differ- 
ent from that noted on all ordinary 
fabrics. This weave is generally 
known as gauze by fabric makers, 
and Is the simplest leno weave used. 

Naturally, one of these fabrics made 
entirely from cotton does not com- 
pare in effect or sell at as high a price 
as most of the all-silk or even the 
mixture fabrics, but, nevertheless, the 
improvement in finishing methods has 
made it possible to make cotton fab- 
rics of this character very attractive 
and much more desirable than they 
formerly were. Onry a short time 
ago most open-work fabrics woven 
with a gauze weave were merely dyed 
solid colors when they were woven, 
but to-day these cloths contain vari- 
ous printed patterns and colors, and 
also form the groundwork for addi- 
tional woven effects, which are sold 
in quite large quantities and are 
very attractive. There are other fin- 
ishing processes employed which give 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



37 



quite satisfactory results in addition 
„o the printing process. Some of the 
results obtained are desirable for the 
reason that they can be obtained in 
no other manufacturing method, and 
when in style quite large profits are 
secured from their manufacture. 

The weave used in the ordinary 
marquisette is called plain gauze, a 
method by which one thread twists 
around another, first to one side and 
then to the other, this thread usually 
called the ground thread. The thread 
which twists around the ground 
thread is usually known as the cross- 
ing or douping thread, and is the one 



the fact that between each pick it 
crosses to the opposite side of the 
ground thread. Different methods are 
used in producing cloth of this char- 
acter. Probably the method used most 
extensively is the ordinary leno mo- 
tion, which we will describe later in 
a. little more detail. 

Then there is a method which is 
often tried wherein a specially con- 
structed reed is used which forces 
the crossing thread first to one and 
then to the other side of the ground 
thread through a lateral motion. 
Then there are a number of varieties 
of special heddles which have been 




Irsiss:: :ss:r»2H s «3!9ga:SSSS*9 •::s: 5:s 5ss::::> -•::::sj: 



Cotton Marquisette. 



which is ordinarily forced into a 
twisted position by the weave, but in 
the cloth analyzed, the warp, both 
ground and crossing, threads are of 
the same size, and for this reason, the 
twisted effect produced is noted on 
both. Inasmuch as the threads twist 
around each other they bind in the 
filling much more firmly than in or- 
dinary cloths and prevent any great 
amount of slipping. The result pro- 
duced by the twisting of the threads 
should be clearly seen from the illus- 
tration which we have presented. It 
will be noticed that the ground thread 
on the cloth considered is never lift- 
ed, while the crossing thread is raised 
at every pick, being held in place by 



developed for producing leno work 
and which are used to a certain ex- 
tent. While these methods all appear 
somewhat different from the ordinary 
processes, the results produced are 
identical, for the principle is the same. 
In our illustration we have given four 
picks of the cloth, separated so that 
they can be easily distinguished, and 
the weave by which they were pro- 
duced. 

Naturally, a special weave such as 
that considered has to be made in a 
different manner than that ordinarily 
noted. In the first place, it will be 
seen that two heavy lines have been 
drawn close together at the bottom 
of the illustration. The first one of 



38 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



these lines represents a harness 
which contains no heddles at all, and 
which is generally called the doup or 
slip harness. The second line which 
we have drawn represents a second 
harness, which is generally called the 
standard harness. On this standard 
harness are placed heddles of various 
kinds, that is, so far as their make- 
up is concerned, although they act 
similarly. On the bottom of the first 
or doup harness are tied loops of yarn 
which pass up and through the eye 
in the second or standard harness, 
sometimes being held in place by the 
warp threads when drawn in, but in 
most cases being held in place by 
passing through a double heddle eye. 
The remaining two harnesses are ex- 
actly the same as are used in making 
ordinary cloth. The fifth heavy line 
which we have drawn does not repre- 
sent a harness, but is a slackener rod, 
which is necessary for successful 
loom operation, because when the 
threads are in a crossed position there 
is an undue strain on the yarn which 
may cause excessive breakage unless 
relieved. The crossing threads are 
all held up by this rod and let off 
when the threads take a crossed posi- 
tion, being pulled up again when the 
threads are reversed. 

The warp is drawn in as follows: 
All the threads are first drawn in on 
the two harnesses which are marked 
"ground" just as if plain weave cloth 
were to be produced, that is, one 
thread is drawn on one harness, the 
next on a following one, and the op- 
eration continued until the whole 
warp has been drawn in. When this 
has been done, the crossing thread is 
taken and crossed over or under the 
ground thread, as the case may be, 
and then drawn into the loop of the 
doup which passes through the eye 
in the second or standard harness. 
This operation is done for each cross- 
ing thread, and when completed the 
whole warp is drawn through the 
r->ed. It should be understood that 
the crossing and ground threads 
which operate together must be reed- 
ed in the same dent or a crossing will 
not take place. The slackener rod is 
usually adjusted after the warp is 
drawn in and placed in the loom. 



By referring to the illustration the 
method of drawing in should be very 
clear, the white spaces showing the 
harness on which the threads are 
drawn. One item which is important 
is that when the standard harness is 
raised the doup harness must also be 
raised, because the loops pass 
through the heddle eyes of this har- 
ness, and if it were not done, the 
doups would soon wear out. Usually, 
an arrangement is made whereby this 
is done without considering it in the 
design, but we have treated each har- 
ness separately, so as to make the 
method more evident. If the stand- 
ard and doup harness be lifted it will 
be noted that the crossing thread 
will be on the right side of the 
ground thread. This crosses the two 
threads, so that the slackener must be 
operated to let off a few inches of 
yarn and lessen the strain. This is 
for the pick which is marked No. 1. 

On the second pick the ground har- 
ness which contains the crossing 
thread is raised, and, at the same 
time, the first or doup harness is 
raised. The lifting of the ground har- 
ness causes the doup to slip through 
the eye of the standard harness and 
around the ground thread, thus bring- 
ing the crossing thread to the op- 
posite side of the ground thread from 
that noted when pick No. 1 was in 
serted. The following picks are a 
repetition of these first two described 

It will be seen that the ground 
thread harness is never raised, while 
the crossing thread is actually lifted 
every pick, but, due to the crossing of 
the threads, it is bound in tightly. 
Practical working conditions make it 
necessary for loom changes to be 
made so that an o.pen shoQ dobby will 
work satisfactorily, but the principle 
of the weave is no different from that 
described. We have explained the op- 
eration of bottom doups, that is, ones 
which have the doups tied to the bot- 
tom of the slip harness, but there are 
also leno fabrics made which have top 
doups on which the doups are tied to 
the top of the slip harness. 

Because of the fact that the cloth 
is an openwork one and rather light 
in weight, silk yarns are used exten- 
sively in its manufacture. Not only 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



39 



does this method of production make 
a light fabric, but it also results in an 
even or regular product, for the silk 
yarns have practically no fibres pro- 
jecting, which condition is likely to 
fill up somewhat the open spaces in a 
fabric composed of cotton yarn. To 
make a regular appearance when cot- 
ton yarns are used, it is customary 
to use fine two-ply yarns, for this re- 
sults in a smoother product, besides 
making the yarns stronger and more 
able to stand the crossing operation, 
with fewer breakages. Naturally, the 
use of fine two-ply cotton yarn will 
increase the cost of making, but the 




Weave Plan. 

fabrics are usually light in weight, and 
good results must be obtained even at 
an increased price. 

It is rather hard to ascertain just 
what the best cloth construction is 
when any sizes of yarn are consider- 
ed. This is because a change of a 
few picks will either produce a good 
or an unsatisfactory fabric. The 
crossing or twisting of the threads 
makes it impossible to place very 
many picks in the fabric, and for this 
reason, the correct construction should 
be left largely to the mill. The right 
number of picks per inch will cause 
fewer breakages and seconds and less 
trouble in manufacturing. The pro- 
duction per loom is quite large, due 
to the comparatively few picks per 



inch, and loom speeds are slower than 
for ordinary cloths, because more 
time is necessary for the satisfactory 
changing of the thread, so that ex- 
cessive wear may not occur on the 
doup yarn. 

FABRIC VARIETY. 

While it is true that most of the 
gauze cloth produced is similar in ef- 
fect to the cloth analyzed, it is also 
a fact that this weave is used with 
dobby and also with fancy jacquard 
figures. Sometimes the crossing thread 
will cross over more than a single 
ground thread and at other times more 
than a single thread is used for cross- 
ing purposes. In fancy weaving, all 
these threads can be woven plain or 
in various figures as desired, thus 
producing a pattern similar to that 
made on the ordinary jacquard, and 
with the remainder of the cloth of 
openwork material similar to that of 
the fabric considered. Other fabrics 
are produced wherein the woven fig- 
ures will be made in jacquard style 
and woven on a box loom, with the 
ground of the cloth composed of or- 
dinary gauze. Where the figure is not 
woven in the extra yarn is sheared 
off, leaving practically a transparent 
ground decorated with more or less 
heavy jacquard figures. Such cloths 
are used for window curtains, door 
panels and similar purposes, and have 
quite a steady distribution. 

The principle of weaving is, howev- 
er, founded on the features which we 
have explained and should be evident 
from the illustration which we present. 
Not only are grey yarns used in these 
fancy fabrics, but often colored yarn 
is introduced with good results. The 
analysis of fabrics which are produced 
with leno weave is no more complicat- 
ed than it is for ordinary cloth, the 
one item which should be especially 
considered being the take-ups noted 
on the yarn. Because of the crossing 
of the threads the take-ups on the 
yarn are likely to be a greater amount 
than for ordinary cloths, both for warp 
and filling, and this feature naturally 
affects the cloth weights and the cost 
of production. 

It is well to remember that fabrics 
such as those analyzed have a very 
large proportion of labor and expense 



40 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



included and a comparatively small 
cost, due to material, so that any sav- 
ing which can be effected through a 
greater production is usually much 
larger than can be obtained through 
cutting down the material. An extra 
loom per weaver, through the use of 
a longer or better cotton, is often re- 
sponsible for a lower cost of making, 
because the weaving cost is high, and 
a greater number of looms per weaver 
more than makes up for the additional 
cost due to higher-priced stock. Each 
mill has conditions of operation which 
are somewhat different pnd has to de- 
termine which course is best for them 
through experience. 

The yarns in any fabric which have 
to be duplicated usually have to be 
considered from the finished sample, 
and some allowance must be made for 
the losses in finishing. It is very 
likely that the losses in the yarns used 
in this cloth are in the vicinity of 10 
per cent, due to stretch, loss in bleach- 
ing and other items. It is believed by 
those who have made experiments 
along this line that allowances for the 
above conditions have been altogether 
too low and that finished cloths are 
lighter than when grey to a greater 
extent than generally believed. The 
method of obtaining the weights of 
the yarn and the yards per pound in 
a fabric such as that analyzed is as 
follows : 

2,104 threads in ground warp. 
272 threads in selvage warp. 



2.376 total. 

Ground warp take-up 13%. 
Selvage warp take-up 5%. 
Warp size 100/2. 
Filling size 100/2. 
Reed width 47%". 
Picks per inch 36. 

2,104 ends -*- (100/2 X S40) = .0501, 

of ground warp without take-up. 
13% take-up in weaving. 
.0501 -*- .87 = .0576, total weight of 

warp per yard of cloth. 
272 ends -^ (100/2 X S40) = .0065, 

of selvages without take-up. 
5% take-up in weaving. 
.0065 -h .95 = .0068, total weight of 

warp per yard of cloth. 
36 picks X 41 hi" reed width X 36 



36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,701 ■+■ 100/2 X 840 = .0405, total 

of filling per yard of cioth. 
.0576 + .0068 + .0405 = .1049, total 

per yard. 
1.U000 -*- .1049 = 9.53 yards per lb. 



weight 

ground 
weight 

selvage 

1.701 

weight 
weight 
(grey). 



LAPPET DOTTED SWISS 

One variety of fabric which has a 
more or less steady sale, and in quit8 
large quantities, is the cloth usually 
sold for a cheap dotted swiss. In a 
general way, such materials are of a 
light character and made from medi- 
um and fine sizes of yarns, either 
carded or combed, and have a rather 
sheer effect when finished. They are 
used for cheap dresses, waists, win- 
dow-curtains, portiers and similar 
purposes where there can be large 
quantities disposed of. Possibly, the 
majority of such cloths are made with 
patterns which consist of dots spaced 
in a diamond position on the cloth 
These dots may be either large or 
small in size and spaced up to about 
one and one-quarter inches apart in a 
lateral direction, although special ap- 
pliances are sometimes used which 
increase this distance. There are, 
however, many fabrics made in which 
there are what are called trailing pat- 
terns where the lappet figure is con- 
tinuous and no shearing operation has 
to be done, as is noted in the case 
where separate spots are produced. 

.Most of the lappet patterns made 
are imitations of those made on em- 
broidery and swivel looms, although 
the results are not so accurate, be- 
cause the lappet mechanism is not so 
exact, and for this reason, is usually, 
although not always, applied to fabrics 
of lower quality. At certain times, it 
is also true that lappet figures, both 
of the spot and trailing variety, are 
applied to various kinds of medium 
and even heavy-weight waisting and 
dress materials, with a resulting im- 
provement in their appearance, and 
not only are grey cotton yarns used, 
but there are also colors employed, 
and in quite a number of cases, both 
raw and dyed silks. It is also pos- 
sible to have the loom attachment 
such that three different patterns can 
be placed on the cloth simultaneously, 
so that quite intricate and varied ef- 
fects can be obtained. The illustra- 
tion which we use shows two widely 
different varieties of lappet patterns, 
one made from grey yarns with a spot 
effect which has to be sheared before 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



41 



selling and finishing, and another 
which contains dyed yarns and is 
woven with a trailing pattern, and not 
only is one lappet pattern employed, 
but it will be noted that two distinct 
lappet patterns have been used, thus 
making it necessary for two needle 
bars to be used on the loom lay, which 
are operated by two entirely different 
lappet chains. 

The motion or attachment which 
permits the making of a pattern some- 
\\ hat similar to embroidery is gener- 
ally known as a lappet motion. It 
can be used either on a plain or a 



When the slide is held up, no pat- 
tern is made, because the threads are 
above the warp, but when it is lower- 
ed at the proper time, or when the 
shed is open, the filling passes over 
the yarn in the needle's eyes, thus 
binding it in the cloth, and then by 
moving the slide back and forth for 
the succeeding picks, the various lap- 
pet patterns are produced. The nee- 
dles have to be lifted when the lay 
beats the filling into the fell of the 
cloth or else the fabric would be spoil- 
ed, and this operation is accomplished 
hy a loom mechanism. The shuttle 






An Inexpensive Lappet Made From Grey Yarns and Sheared After Being 

Woven. 



dobby loom, and is a system of levers 
operated by a cam or by a chain 
composed of different sizes of balls, 
arranged according to the pattern de- 
sired. On the loom lay, and moving 
back and forth with it, is a slide 
which is free to move latterly, and 
which can also be raised and lowered 
at the correct time. This slide con- 
tains a number of needles, the lower 
portion of which have eyes through 
• which a thread or threads can be 
drawn. The number of needles on 
the slide is determined entirely by the 
pattern which is to be produced. 
Through a system of levers this slide 
is operated by a cam or by a chain, as 
explained. 



does not run close to the reed as In 
ordinary cloth making, but next to a 
row of pins between which and the 
reed there is space for the lappet nee- 
dles when they are depressed to form 
the pattern. Much of the evenness of 
a lappet pattern is secured by the 
tightness of the motion, for any great 
amount of play will cause unsatis- 
factory results. The lappet yarn is 
not placed on a heavy beam at the 
bad; of the loom, but is wound on a 
light spool which is placed near the 
front over the warp yarn and on the 
loom frame. 

Due to the large take-up in weav- 
ing, which will be explained more 
fully later, these spools contain yarn 



42 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



to weave out only a portion of the 

ground warp. If they were made 
heavier the operation would not be 
so successful, so when one spool runs 
out another is inserted and the vari- 
ous threads drawn in by the weaver, 
this operation taking but a short time, 
inasmuch as there are usually only a 
comparatively few lappet ends. One 
other feature which has to be consid- 
ered in producing patterns by this 
motion is that the movement back 
and forth of the loom lay causes the 
lappet yarn to be regularly slack and 
tight to an excessive amount and some 
arrangement has to be used so as to 
take up the slack yarn. Usually this 
arrangement is very simple, being 
nothing more than a light wire appa- 
ratus over which the lappet yarn pass- 
es and is operated by a light spring. 
Through such a method the yarn 
slips back and forth through the 
needle eyes and causes no great trou- 
ble. 

The variety of cloths to which lap- 
pet patterns are applied is so wide 
that any statements regarding the fab- 
ric constructions used would be rather 
inadequate, but for the simple cloths 
which contain dots a number of gen- 
eral statements may be made. Usually 
the main idea in producing a fabric of 
this character is to get it out as 
cheaply as possible, and therefore 
the number of threads and picks per 
inch are comparatively low. It is also 
true that a light sheer ground cloth 
is desired, for this allows the lappet 
dot or figure to show in contrast with 
the body of the fabric. To produce 
this light ground cloth the yarns nat- 
urally would be of comparatively fine 
sizes. Both carded and combed stock 
is used, depending a good deal on the 
results desired and on the mill pro- 
ducing the goods. 

The lappet yarn is usually of heavy 
size so as to form a distinct figure 
in contrast to the ground cloth, and 
it is also to be noted in the majority 
of cases that the lappet yarn is two 
or more ply. This is done because the 
continuous rubbing of the lappet nee- 
dles, as the loom lay moves back and 
forth, would cause many breakages if 
the yarn was single, while with ply 
yarn practically no lappet yarn break- 



age is noted. When cheap results are 
desired it is customary to use carded 
yarn for the lappet, in fact, it is usual- 
ly used because the continuous twist- 
ing of the yarn in the pattern elimi- 
nates the uneven yarn effects which 
may be present, and also because a 
greater or less portion of the yarn is 
sheared off in spot patterns. 

Naturally, when a higher price Is be- 
ing received for the woven material 
a greater amount of leeway is allowed 
in the yarns used, and sometimes 
combed cotton yarn, especially if it is 
first mercerized, is utilized and often- 
times silk yarn is used both for spot 
and for trailing patterns. Often silk 
filling is used for some of the more 
expensive fabrics, and in these cases 
the cloth has quite a high count, al- 
though still light in weight, due to the 
use of silk. Recently, there has been 
a large number of lappet dots applied 
to fabrics which contain hard twist 
filling and which are finished as crepes 
in fact, the ground cloth construction 
is identical with many of the cheaper 
or medium priced crepe fabrics. One 
of the most common lappet construc- 
tions used is 72 threads per inch and 
48 picks per inch, with 50s warp and 
60-1 or 70-1 filling, the yarn sizes vary- 
ing somewhat, due to mill conditions. 
The lappet yarn is usually in the vicin- 
ity of 30-2 and is of carded stock, while 
the other yarns are often of combed 

PATTERN MAKING. 
There are two general classifications 
of the various lappet patterns, first, 
those which consist of a spot effect in 
different arrangements and in which 
the lappet end floats over a portion of 
the cloth and second those which are 
designated as trailing patterns where 
the lappet end or ends weave in con- 
tinuously on practically every pick. 
When the first class of pattern is be- 
ing made an extra process is neces- 
sary after the cloth is woven, for the 
lappet yarn, which floats from one 
spot to the one following, must be 
cut off so as to leave the ground cloth 
entirely clear. In shearing these floats 
off, the loose thread is first cut and 
then, in a second process, the cut ends 
are brushed up and clipped off close 
to the woven spot or figure. In the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



43 



majority of cases where the first kind 
of patterns are being made, it is bet- 
ter to produce the effect through 
means of a cam, as this results in 
more accurate mechanical operation. 
There is, however, a limit to the ex- 
tent of pattern which can be placed 
on a cam and usually such methods are 
confined aln:ost entirely to dots of va- 
rious sizes. 

When the trailing patterns are to 
be produced a chain of balls is the 
common method, the diameter of the 
ball regulating the operation of the 
lappet needles. If the extreme range 
of pattern which can be produced is 



in demand and this is an advantage 
when some looms are considered. 
When clipped spots are being pro- 
duced it is sometimes the case that 
a process is used whereby the cut 
ends are pulled through to the back of 
the cloth, although this is not done 
when a low-priced material is desired. 
Usually a lappet loom will be oper- 
ated at a somewhat slower speed than 
plain or dobby looms producing the 
ground cloth alone, that is, a dobby 
loom which was operated at about 160 
picks per minute would be operated 
at possibly 145 or 150 picks per min- 
ute if a lappet pattern were to be 




A Lappet Woven from Dyed Yarns and Containing a Trailing Pattern. 



one and one-half inches, and there 
are 20 sizes of balls employed, the ef- 
fect desired is divided into 20 parts, 
and each part will be represented by 
a certain size of ball. When this has 
been done it is easy enough to make 
up the loom chain after making due 
allowances for the number of picks 
per inch in the fabrics. Because there 
is some variation in the mechanical 
operation of the lappet motion, it is 
often necessary that the pattern be 
tried and then adjusted at the loom 
especially when balls are used to pro- 
duce the pattern. The use of a lappet 
motion on a loom does not prevent 
the making of ordinary plain or dobby 
fabrics when ordinary lappets are not 



added to the effect. The looms per 
weaver are approximately as many as 
when no lappet pattern is used, that 
is, if six dobby looms were operated 
by a weaver on a certain pattern the 
same number would be likely to be 
operated if a lappet effect were added. 
The weaving cost is slightly higher 
because of the slower loom speed and 
a somewhat smaller percentage of pro- 
duction. There are, of course, many 
patterns where the above is not true, 
when more than one lappet bar is 
used on a cloth, but for a one-bar lap- 
pet the statement applies to the ma- 
jority of fabrics. 

One important feature which has 
been alluded to before is the take-up 



44 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of the lappet yarns. This is of im- 
portance because unless care is exer- 
cised the cloth weights obtained will 
not be correct, and the cloth cost re- 
sulting will be likely to cause losses. 
Due to the crossing back and forth 
of the lappet threads it takes an ex- 
cessive amount of yarn to weave the 
cloth, the extra amount depending en- 
tirely on the fabric and the cloth con- 
struction. Spot patterns are likely to 
take from three to five times the 
length of yarn to produce any certain 
lengths of cloth, while trailing pat- 
terns may take from five to fifteen 
times as muJi as the length of cloth 
produced. A cloth with a large num- 
ber of picks per inch usually has a 
very high take-up on the lappet yarns. 
It is a very good plan whenever pos- 
sible to leave from one-half to three- 
quarters of an inch of plain cloth next 
to the selvages when arranging for 
lappet patterns, as this facilitates 
the handling of the cloth and makes 
a better result, and besides causes 
less trouble in weaving with a smaller 
percentage of seconds. It is some- 
times almost impossible to eliminate 
streaks in a lappet fabric of light con- 
struction, because a heavy lappet yarn 
has a tendency to hold the picks back 
and thereby cause thick and thin 
places in the cloth. Too much tension 
on the lappet yarn spool will cause 
the heavy yarn to pull the ground 
warp ends together, thus creating an 
uneven finished effect. 

The yarns used in making this kind 
of fabric will vary widely due to the 
different conditions of manufacture. 
It is, however, necessary to have the 
yarns of fairly good quality, because 
the light character of most of the 
cloth will show up any irregularities 
and cause criticism of the finished re- 
sults. When yarns are to be dyed be- 
fore the weaving operation they will 
probably contain a longer staple of 
cotton for the same size of yarn than 
those which are to be used in the grey 
state. The filling when dyed is also 
likely to contain quite a little more 
twist per inch than when used in the 
grey state, because the extra twist 
makes the yarn stronger and facili- 
tates handling. In a general way the 
use of dyed yarns will make a fabric 



cost a greater amount than would oth- 
erwise be noted. For the yarns used 
in the grey fabrics, the yarn layouts 
would be approximately as follows, al- 
though they may vary widely from 
the Lgures given, due to manufactur- 
ing condition! in the different mills: 

r> / 1 combed warp. 
. 1 G tj T grs. per yard. 

.9S 2%. contraction in twist. 

.1G34 

10 spinning frame draft. 

1.634 -=- 2 = .817 = 10.2 hank roving. 
6.6 jack frame draft. 

5 39 -4- 2 = 2.70 = 3. OS hank roving. 
5.5 second intermediate frame draft. 

14.85 -7- 2 = 7.43 == 1.12 hank roving. 
4.4 first intermediate frame draft. 



32.69 -4- 2 = 16.35 = .51 hank roving 
3.7 slubber frame draft. 



60 grains finisher drawing sliver 
4 5 grains card sliver. 
12 oz. lap. 

65/1 filling combed. 
.1282 grains = 1 yard. 

.9S 2% contraction in twist. 



.1256 

9 spinning frame draft. 



1.1304 -=- 2 = .565 = 14.75 hank ro\ ing. 
6.8 jack frame draft. 



3.84 h- 2 = 1.92 = 4.34 hank roving. 
5.S second intermediate frame draft. 



11.14 -4- 2 = 5.57 = 1.49 hank roving. 
5 first intermediate frame draft. 



27. S5 -=- 2 = 13.92 = .60 hank roving. 
4.3 slubber frame draft. 

60 grains finisher drawing sliier. 
45 grains card sliver. 
12 oz. lap. 

30/1 carded warp. 
.2778 grains = 1 yard. 

.9S 2% contraction in twist. 



9.5 spinning frame draft. 



.5S -4- 2 = 1.29 = 6.46 hank roving. 
.25 line frame draft. 



8.06 -f- 2 = 4.03 = 2.06 hank roving. 
5.26 intermediate frame draft. 



21.16 -s- 2 = 10. 5S = .79 hank roving. 
4.25 slubber frame draft. 

45 grains finisher drawing sliver. 
45 grains card sliver. 
12 oz. lap. 

The method of finding the weights 
on grey lappet fabrics is no more diffi- 
cult than it is for ordinary cloths, if 
due care be exercised in obtaining the 
take-ups, especially on the lappet 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



45 



yarns. On ordinary fabrics of this 
nature the finishing processes are 
quite simple, the white cloths being 
bleached and then starched and folded 
or, if dyed, they are dyed in a similar 
manner to an ordinary piece-dyed ma- 
terial, while the fabrics which contain 
bleached and dyed yarns are usually 
washed and starched and are then 
ready for sale. The amount Oii starch 
added depends altogether on the fab- 
ric, many of the cheap white materi- 
als being treated to quite a large 
amount, so as to keep the threads in 
place and make the cloth appear bet- 
ter, while many of the better cloths 
contain comparatively little of such 
sizing material. The process for ob- 
taining the -weights on the dotted fab- 
rics for which the yarn layouts are 
given is as follows: 

Cloth width finished 27". 

Cloth width grey 27%". 

Width in reed 29%". 

Threads per inch 72, finished. 

Picks per inch 47, finished. 

Threads per inch 71, grey. 

Picks per inch 48, grey. 

Threads in warp 1962. 

Lappett ends in warp 27. 

Reed (2 in a dent) 33. 

Warp size 50/1. 

Filling size 65/1. 

Lappet size 30/2. 

Warp take-up 5%. 

Lappet take-up 75%. 

Price to converter about 5%c. grey. 

Price to consumer usually 12MsC. per yard. 

1,962 ends h- (50/1 X 840) = .0467, ground 

warp weight without take-up. 
5% take-up. 
.0467 h- .95 = .0492, total ground warp 

weight per yard of cloth. 
48 picks X 29%" reed width X 36" 

■ = 1,404 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,404 -^ (65/1 X 840) = .0257, total weight 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
27 ends lappet ^- (30/2 X 840) = .00214, 

weight without take-up. 
75% take-up in weaving. 
.00214 h- .25 = .00S6, total weight per yard 

of cloth for lappet yarn. 
.0492 + .0257 + .0086 = .0835, total weight 

per yard. 
1.0000 -5- .0835 = 11. 9S yards before shear- 
ing (grey). 



-*-»-♦- 



MERCERIZED POPLIN 

There is one line of cloths which is 
being used in increasing quantities and 
which is certain to have more or less 
of an influence on future cloth sales. 
This line of fabrics is the one gen- 
erally known as mercerized poplin. 



There are certain styles of materials 
which sell in large quantities when 
the market is right for them, but 
which at other times have a compara- 
tively small sale, and are replaced by 
other fabrics, and it can be said that 
the cause of such fluctuating sales is 
largely Decause of the whims of fash- 
ion. 

The fabric which we are to consider 
was generally thought of, a number of 
years ago, in the same class as other 
fancy materials, and sellers expected 
to see a big decrease in sales which, 
up to the present time, has not been 
noted. It is true that the quantity 
used in the future may not be as 
large as it has been in the recent 
past, but it is very unlikely that the 
sale of mercerized poplins will ever 
again be of small proportions. This 
is because consumers in general have 
realized the great value and beauty 
of the cloth and the wide variety of 
uses to which it can be successfully 
applied. Such fabrics are used for 
dresses, waists, children's suits and 
rompers, men's shirts, ladies' belts, 
raincoats, and, in fact, about any 
place where attractive appearance and 
cloth-wearing value is of importance. 
A good many sellers have adopted 
one of the ordinary good poplin con- 
structions and are trade-marking and 
advertising it, and expect that it will 
be in the future the most important 
staple fancy cloth in the market. In 
addition to the ordinary plain white 
material which is so often seen, there 
are similar cloths dyed in solid colors, 
the same kind of materials decorated 
with plain and fancy silk stripes in 
white and various colors, and dobby 
and jacquard weaves are ofter ap- 
plied to the poplin fabrics, so that 
the variety of effects possible is about 
as wide as it is on any ordinary fancy 
cotton mill product. 

A NEW CONSTRUCTION. 

When a poplin construction is men- 
tioned it is generally well recognized 
what kind of a cloth is designated, 
and many would be inclined to view 
the fabric as being one which has 
been produced for a good many years 
but this is not true, inasmuch as tlie 
present mercerized fabric bears ve\ y 



46 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOS^aiw 



little resemblance to the old style, 
well-known poplin. This is mainly 
because the fabric is mercerized be- 
fore being sold, and as mercerization 
is a comparatively new process, the 
methods having been available not 
much in excess of ten years and used 
in large quantities a much shorter 
time than this, it can be said that the 
present poplin is a rather new cloth. 

Inasmuch as the mercerization proc- 
ess is aided by certain yarn construc- 
tions, the yarns which are used in the 
present fabrics are made in a differ- 
ent manner than those formerly used, 
although the yarn sizes are approxi-' 
mately the same. It is also probably 
true that the recent large develop- 
ment in fine cloth-making has made 
the quality of the yarns for the same 
sizes used in poplin much better than 
ever before, naturally resulting in a 
bettei .Appearing cloth. In any kind 
of fabric which is to be mercerized 
there are a few general manufactur- 
ing features to be considered. The 
more nearly parallel the cotton fibres 
in the yarn are the better is the re- 
sult likely to be when finished. 

Mercerization makes the cotton 
fibre, which is a small, flat-twisted 
tube under ordinary conditions, change 
into a tiny found fibre very much 
like a small glass rod when examined 
under the microscope. As the ordi- 
nary spinning process twists the fibres 
together, the more they are twisted, 
or the higher the standard of twist is, 
the less will be the lustre imparted 
by mercerization because the paral- 
lelism of the fibres will have been 
destroyed through the twisting, while 
the less twist the yarn contains the 
greater is the lustre likely to be. It 
is for this reason that the yarns for 
use in cloths which are to be mercer- 
ized are spun with a low standard of 
twist. 

The reduction of the twist stan- 
dard naturally results in the produc- 
tion of a weaker yarn, and as the 
length of the cotton fibre has much 
to do with the strength of the yarn, 
it is customary to use a somewhat 
longer staple of cotton so as to ob- 
tain adequate yarn strength. 

Mercerization is produced by the 
action of caustic soda on cotton cloth, 



but the cloth when being treated 
must be held tightly or no mercerized 
effect is produced, thus, if the filling 
is the portion being treated the cloth 
is held out wide, while if the warp 
is being treated the cloth is held 
tightly in that direction. Single fill- 
ing can be spun satisfactorily with a 
low standard of twist, because there 
are no processes after the yarn is 
spun, while in practically all cases 
where the warp is to be mercerized 
the yarn must be twisted after spin- 
ning, because soft twist single warp 
would be impractical through exces- 
sive breakage due to the soft twist, 
while with two-ply this trouble is 
largely eliminated. 

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION. 

A poplin fabric is one wherein there 
is a greater number of threads than 
there are picks per inch, usually two 
or more times as many, and in most 
cases, the warp is of finer size than 
the filling. The above method of de- 
veloping a cloth produces one where 
there appears to be ribs in the filling 
direction, the number and size of 
which are regulated by the picks per 
inch and the size of the filling yarns, 
and the excessive number of threads 
per inch in the warp practically cov- 
ers up the filling which is used. 

Under these conditions most of the 
fabric wear is noted on the warp 
yarns, and the fabric will wear as long 
as the warp yarn is strong enough to 
hold together. The idea is used in 
cloths made from various materials. 
for it is adopted in silk, wool and 
cotton and not only in the materials 
as mentioned, but also in mixture fab- 
rics, such as silk and cotton, silk and 
wool, cotton and linen and also in 
some cases entirely from linen. Not 
only are poplins made entirely from 
cotton, but they are made from dif- 
ferent qualities of stock for warp and 
filling, that is, the warp will be made 
from combed stock, while the filling 
will be produced from carded stock, 
and the warp may be of fine two-ply, 
while the filling may be of heavier 
single yarns. 

This is entirely possib'.e, because the 
warp practically covers up the cheaper 
filling. Many poplins are made of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



47 



single yarns, but the largest sellers 
of recent years and the ones which 
will have a continuous sale are those 
made from two-ply yarns, at least so 
far as the warp yarn is considered. 
Possibly the fabric which is selling 
in largest quantity is that which 
counts about one hundred threads 
and 48 picks per inch in the grey 
state, is about 28 inches wide, and 
contains 60-2 soft twist warp, and 
from 24-1 to 30-1 filling. There has 
been a large sale of a carded poplin 
construction which has a count some- 
what similar to that above mentioned 
and which is made from 30-1 carded 
warp and 25-1 filling, but which is not 
mercerized, and which is not so at- 
tractive, neither does it sell for as 
high a price as the fabric which is 
now considered the standard poplin. 

There are also many poplin fabrics 
made where the count of the yarn is 
higher than the 60-2 previously men- 
tioned, for 70-2 and 80-2 are often 
used with a greater number of threads 
per inch and in many cases with the 
filling of two-ply yarn and a corre- 
sponding increase in the number of 
picks per inch. As a usual thing the 

GROUND WEAVE 
of all poplin cloths is plain, the 
effects being largely stripes, com- 
posed of either silk or cotton, and 
the figures, when produced on a jac- 
quard loom, are not especially at- 
tractive because of the small number 
of picks per inch. 

When a few picks are used in any 
cloth it is almost impossible to pro- 
duce very good woven effects, because 
the filling does not cover up well, and 
when floated will produce a rather 
ragged appearance. Because a plain 
weave is used on many of these fab- 
rics, it might be supposed that the 
automatic loom would be available 
for the weaving operation, and while 
this is sometimes the case on many 
of the cheap lines, the higher quality 
of most of the fabrics seen makes it 
necessary that more attention be giv- 
en to the weaving of the cloth, and 
besides the saving through the use of 
the automatic loom is not especially 
large, because the cost of production 
is not very high in most cases. The 
fabric weight will vary, due to the 



count and the sizes of yarn used, but 
in most cases the weight of the cloth 
in the grey state is from 4y 2 to 5% 
yards per pound for cloth which is 
28 inches wide. 

SELLING PRICES. 

Possibly the new style of poplin il- 
lustrates very well the reduction 
which consumers have been obtaining 
the past year or so on quite a number 
of what might be designated as fancy 
goods. Not only are prices radically 
lower, but the fabrics are much bet- 
ter at the low prices than they were 
at the former high prices. Somewhat 
less than ten years ago poplin cloths 
for mercerization were developed, and 
because they were a new thing and 
manufacturers and finishers were not 
experienced in their production, the 
costs of making and finishing were 
higher, or appeared higher, than they 
do to-day, although the quantities 
made were so small that the returns 
received were not so large. 

Competition was also responsible for 
lower prices, because a larger sale 
was possible as consumers realized 
the large cloth value. Prices for fin- 
ishing have also declined quite a good 
deal, due to the handling of large 
amounts, although the lower finish- 
ing prices do not indicate that finish- 
ing profits have been less desirable 
than they were. The 

GREATER PRODUCTION 
at the mill, and the more extended fin- 
ishing has produced a better and 
cheaper cloth. 

In some cases, when such fabrics 
were first woven, the operatives ran 
but a single loom, while to-day the 
usual method is to operate six, the 
increase being due to the greater ex- 
perience of the operatives and the bet- 
ter adaptation of yarns and processes. 
When first sold these fabrics were 
retailed at about 50 cents per yard, 
and in some cases even higher, while 
to-day the standard retail price is 25 
cents per yard, with good profits to 
all sellers, although in some cases 
there is even a lower price than 25 
cents per yard. The reduction in price 
has not occurred in a single year, 
but has been gradual as the various 
makers and sellers became accus- 



48 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tomed to making and handling the 
fabric. It is, however, likely that the 
standard price will remain at 25 cents 
per yard, for there seems to be very 
few opportunities for any further re- 
duction. 

The price for bleaching, merceriz- 
ing and finishing the cloth, as it 
is sold to-day varies somewhat, but 
in a general way is about one and 
one-half cents per yard. Similar re- 
ductions to that noted on poplins have 
been seen on many of the silk mixed 
fabrics, and also on other lines of 
all-cotton fabrics, so that, although a 
great many more expensive cotton 
cloths are being produced than ever 
before, the consumer is obtaining far 
more value on a good many lines than 
was previously the case. 

MANUFACTURING FACTS. 

There is comparatively little shrink- 
age in width between the woven cloth 
and the width of the warp in the 
reed. The high number of warp 
threads and the heavy size of the fill- 
ing tend to hold out the cloth when 
it is weaving and make the above 
noted small shrinkage. Possibly a 
shrinkage from reed to cloth of about 
one-half inch will cover most fabrics 
of this character. Because of the 
cloth construction it is necessary to 
use a fine reed in weaving, thus, for 
such a cloth as that described, a 50 
reed would be used with two ends per 
dent. If three or more ends were 
placed in a dent and a coarser reed 
used the weaving operation would un- 
doubtedly be facilitated, but the reed 
marks would probably be very notice- 
able in the finished cloth, and trouble 
will arise from this fact, so that mills 
do not care to attempt such a method. 

Inasmuch as a fine reed is used, the 
two-ply yarn will sometimes cause 
trouble, because the knots will not 
pass through the reed and will break, 
causing a loss in loom production. 
The reed will rub the soft twisted 
warp yarn if the number of threads 
per inch be too high or if the yarn 
size be too coarse for the reed. Good 
cotton is generally used because of 
the soft twist in the yarn and to 
cause less loss of production in weav- 
ing. The fabric is piece mercerized, 
that is, it is treated after it comes 



from the loom. The mercerizing 
process can be accomplished either 
before or after the bleaching process, 
in most cases being done before the 
bleaching takes place. 

The reason the cloth has so 
much wearing value is because there 
is so much material included and such 
a comparatively small weaving and 
expense cost, these two items often 
being less than 20 per cent of the to- 
tal mill cost, a condition seldom noted 
on fancy cotton cloths which are pro- 
duced in large quantities. 

MILL PRICES 
for the ordinary poplins have varied 
somewhat, partly through the fluctua- 
tion in demand, partly because of the 
varying prices of cotton, and partly 
because different mills produce slight- 
ly different constructions. The cloth 
we have analyzed contains 50-2 warp 
instead of 60-2, as is usually noted, 
and this added weight makes the cosi 
to manufacturers slightly higher than 
when 60-2 is used, even though the 
price for 50-2 is less per pound than 
for 60-2. The regular poplin construc- 
tion with 60-2 warp has sold as low 
as 9^ cents per yard, and the price 
of 10y 2 cents, which we have given, 
can probably be bettered in a good 
many cases, at least when 60-2 is used 
for the warp. 

A net profit of one cent per yard 
to the mill will return a rate of profit 
of over 15 per cent, and while fancy 
cloth profits have recently been high, 
it is not likely that they will continue 
so on a staple construction such as 
that considered. The reason why the 
net profit per loom is so large when 
such a small profit per yard is se- 
cured is because the loom produces 
a large number of yards per day or 
per week, due to the comparatively 
small number of picks per inch. 

YARN AND CLOTH WEIGHTS. 

The ordinary poplin construction, 
such as that considered, is a simple 
fabric construction, and although the 
threads and picks per inch, together 
with the yarn sizes, bear no resem- 
blance to the yarn of an ordinary 
print cloth, this method of obtaining 
the weight of the yarn and the yards 
per pound is no more complicated. It 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



49 



-.. *ery true that most of the poplins through which the warp yarn passes, 

sold contain very little sizing materi- and also to the finishing of the cloth, 

als, such as is noted in a good many of the filling being used in the loom as it 

the ordinary print cloths when in a comes from the frame, and being cov- 

finished state, and for this reason the ered up by the warp, so that the loss 

finished weight of the fabric will vary is not so high as it is on the warp 

somewhat from print cloths. yarn. The method of obtaining the 

In a general way a poplin cloth yarn and cloth weights is as follows: 

will be anywhere from five per 2 ,874 ends -*- (50/2 x 840) = .1369, warp 

Cent to ten per cent lighter When weight per yard without take-up. 

finished than when woven. The .W^ 6 ^ i n .i^fta. weight of warp 

warp, Which Sizes in the grey per yard of woven cloth. 

state 50-2, will be in the finished 4S picks x l% ^" width in reed * 36 " 
cloth size about 55-2, and in this kind 36" ~~ 

Of a fabric the lOSS on the warp Will yards of filling per yard of cloth. 

be greater than the loss on the filling. "$ £*$?&* ™\r<^' t0ta ' Wei&ht 

This is due to the SOft twist employed 1472 + -°5S2 = .2054, total weight per yard 

and the greater number of processes i. °o f oo%OB4 = 4.87 yards per ib. (grey). 

PATTERN. 
Z 2 

60/2 Am. combed warp — 2,826 — = 2,874, total ends. 

12 12 

28/1 Am. combed filling; 48 picks. 

i»" reed; 28%" width in reed; 28" grey width; 27'' finished width. 
102 X 48 grey count; 106 X 47 finished count 

YARNS. 

Labor, 

waste, Twist- 

,«,„ , . „ Cotton. etc. ing. 

50/2 Am. combed warp. 1 5-16" staple; 10 hank dou. rov., 21c. 16%c. 2%c = 40^c 

28/1 Am. combed filling, iy 8 " staple; 6% hank dou. rov., 15c. 8%c. ' = 23%c! 

COST. 

2,874 ends 50/2 Am. combed + 7% take-up = .1472 ® 40Vic = i 0593 

4* picks 28/1 Am. combed filling P "« .05^2 @ 23%%. = * .0136 

Weaving __ 0074 

Ex p enses :::::::::::::= :ooso 

Selling (grey) $ ;g{jf f 

Mill selling price (grey) * *?o?0 

Bleaching, mercerizing and finishing .."!!!!!!!!! !oi50 

Cost to converter (not including expenses) ~ « 19nn 

Cost to jobber ' ' ? 

Cost to retailer ' 'ittn 

Cost to consumer 2500 

Yards per pound 4.87 (grey). 

Yards per pound about 5.30 finished. 

Plain weave. 



"MOCK-TWIST" SUITING 

One line of fabrics which is of in- 
terest at present and which shows a 
variation in method of making from 
that ordinarily noted is so-called 
"mock twist." Because of a number 
of reasons, mixture fabrics have been 
selling very well in woolen goods, 
and, naturally, it would be expected 
that similar effects would be in de- 



mand when produced from cotton. 
Usually, when made from cotton, 
cloth prices are comparatively low, 
and yarns are not made of especially 
good stock or very fine sizes, possibly 
in the majority of cases being between 
lOs-1 and 20s-l for both warp and fill- 
ing. These materials are used for 
dresses and other similar purposes 
where a rather heavy colored fabric 
can be used. 



50 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



With the exception of the color ef- 
fect, the cloth is not unlike many of 
the piece-dyed cotton fabrics which 
are now being sold in some cases as 
linens. The width of the fabric will 
vary somewhat, for they are sold at 
27 and 32 inches wide, although pos- 
sibly the largest portion is being sold 
at the wider width. Most of the 
cloths are made with a plain weave, 
although in a few cases, some of the 
more simple weaves, such as twills, 
baskets and sateens are used. For 
the above reason, these cloths can 
be made on automatic looms with ad- 
vantage, and probably many of them 



is ordinarily known as stock dyeing. 
Inasmuch as most of the colors used 
are dark shades it is seldom that the 
cotton fibre is bleached before dye- 
ing. 

When the raw cotton has been dyed 
it is handled in the same manner as 
ordinary raw cotton, and is drawn 
and spun into roving of the size de- 
sired, for the yarn in the fabric con- 
sidered the roving being approximate- 
ly 2.50 hank. The white cotton which 
forms the contrast with the darker 
color is given what is often called a 
half bleach before it is handled, that 
is, it is given a processing whicL 




"Mock-Twist" Suiting. 



are produced in this manner. Tne ir- 
regularity of the cloth effect, due to 
the mixture yarns, makes the standard 
of quality somewhat lower than it 
otherwise would be, and allows the 
most ordinary mills to produce them 
if their equipment is such that they 
can dye the cotton in the raw state 
before the yarn is spun. 

In a general way, the yarn as it 
stands in the cloth appears much the 
same as if it were two colored yarns 
twisted, and because it is not regular 
two-ply yarn it is called "mock twist," 
so as to distinguish it. A mill to be 
able to produce yarn of this charac- 
ter must have an equipment which 
permits the dyeing of raw cotton, and 



eliminates a great portion of the cot- 
ton color and makes it seem white 
when twisted with the dyed stock. The 
white cotton is made into the same size 
of roving as the colored cotton, and 
after being bleached is handled in ex- 
actly the same method. Up to the 
spinning frame the two kinds of cot- 
ton are kept separate, and care must 
be exercised not to have colored waste 
or cotton fly become mixed with the 
white stock. 

Usually, when stock-dyed cotton is 
being handled a certain number of 
cards and following machines are kept 
running on one color continually, thus 
making the problem somewhat more 
simple and keeping the various colors 



a Cotton fabrics glossary 



51 



from becoming mixed. One fact which 
is noted is that when stock dyeing is 
used the fabrics produced are almost 
always staple ones, and the range of 
colors is limited, often being as few 
as a half dozen, and not changing from 
season to season as on other lines. 
Stock dyeing is used not only for mix- 
ed fabrics such as that analyzed, but 
also for many lines of ordinary ging- 
hairs, drills, twills, and, in fact, most 
kinds of ordinary staple fabrics, and, 
in addition, is utilized in making a cer- 
tain class of novelty yarns which have 
a more or less steady use. When the 
dyed and bleached rovings are com- 
pleted at the fly frame they are placed 
on the spinning frame, one end of 
color and one end of white stock be- 
ing placed together. The operation of 
this frame is no different than in 
ordinary cases, and the rovings are 
drawn out, this process keeping the 
colors practically separate. The in- 
sertion of the twist by the spindle 
twists these two elongated roving 
ends together, and inasmuch as the 
colors are contrasting ones, the ef- 
fect produced is not unlike a two-ply 
yarn made with two colors. 

It is, however, apparent on examina- 
tion that this "mock-twist" is not so 
regular as ordinary two-ply yarn, for 
the irregularity of the single yarns 
allows the twist to run into the fine 
portion of the thread, resulting in an 
uneven twisted effect. Of course, this 
running down of twist would be less 
prominent in a better yarn, but for 
the fabric considered, and for gener- 
al fabrics of this nature the irregular- 
ity of twist does not make much differ- 
ence. The above result is also seen 
in ply colored yarns to a certain ex- 
tent, but it is not nearly so prominent 
as in the stock-dyed material. There 
are certain advantages to be gained 
by making some fabrics by the "mock- 
twist" method. In the first place, it 
results in a fabric being made from 
single yarns instead of ply yarns, thus 
enabling the mill to produce a lighter 
material and one which has a different 
appearance than a ply yarn fabric. 

For another reason, it allows more 
twist to be introduced without making 
a harsh cloth than if ply yarns were 
placed in the fabric, thus giving a 



better mottled effect. It also makes it 
possible for a mill which does not 
contain twisting frames to produce 
two-ply effects, and, naturally, does 
not upset the organization of the plant, 
for it allows the yarn sizes to be made 
for which the machinery is best 
adapted. 

Possibly, the largest item of inter- 
est is the fact that the making of 
"mock-twist" yarn results in a colored 
two-ply effect, but at a very much 
lower cost than it could otherwise be 
obtained. This statement is made 
even after due consideration has been 
given to the better effect produced by 
the use of ply yarns in a fabric. One 
reason why the cost is lower is be- 
cause the charge for dyeing raw cot- 
ton is less than it is for dyeing yarns, 
and the process eliminates many ex- 
pensive after-processes which are not- 
ed when yarn is dyed. With stock- 
dyed cotton the processes used in pro- 
ducing cloth are practically the same 
as for grey cloth, that is, the yarn is 
spun and the warp is spooled, warped 
and slashed, while the filling is ready 
for the loom when it comes from the 
spinning frame. 

With bleached and dyed yarns the 
method is usually more extensive and 
costly, for after the yarn has been 
spun it is spooled, warped and then 
doubled, making it easier to handle, 
dyed, sized and then separated and 
beamed. Afterward, it is put togeth- 
er in any warp pattern desired. The 
filling is treated in much the same 
manner as warp, except that it is not 
beamed but is quilled instead. The 
above method applies to yarns which 
are not to be twisted. When colored 
twisted yarns are to be produced, the 
g~ey spun yarn is often made into 
skeins and then dyed, after which it 
is spooled and twisted. After the 
twisting operation, the warp is spool- 
ed, warped and slashed in a method 
similar to that used on any other ply 
yarn, while the filling is spooled, ball- 
warped and quilled. Often methods 
are changed somewhat so as to be 
more economical for the individual 
mill, but in all cases the cost of mak- 
ing colored two-ply yarns is very 
much higher than for making the 
"mock-twist" yarn which is used in thr 



5* 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



fabric considered. Without doubt, 
the use of stock-dyed yarns will in- 
crease quite a little, and will ultimate- 
ly form the bulk of the materials used 
in the production of colored staple 
fabrics on which the cloth construc- 
tion and colors change but little, and 
where profits are made through eco- 
nomical mill methods rather than 
through the fabric style. 

It will readily be recognized that 
the effect in the cloth considered is 
made almost entirely by the novelty 
yarn which has been used, and for 
this reason, the cloth as it comes from 
the loom is practically ready for sale. 
Before shipment, however, it is wash- 
ed and sized, so that it presents a 
somewhat better appearance. The 
amount of size or starch placed in this 
variety of cloth will vary according 
to selling conditions and the ideas of 
various buyers, but usually it contains 
a rather small amount, so that it is 
not too stiff. Instead of being folded 
and sold in the way most colored 
cloths are, this material is often sold 
in the roll form. One fact which is 
particularly noticeable on this sort of 
material is that the reed marks are 
quite prominent, especially when the 
fabric is held up to the light, and they 
detract a great deal from the cloth 
appearance. This condition is almost 
always apparent in fabrics which are 
practically ready for sale as they 
come from the loom, but is seldom 
noticed on cloths which have to be 
bleached, dyed or finished after the 
weaving operation. For this reason, 
the last named fabrics usaally have a 
more regular finished appearance and 
are more desirable in some cases. 

There has been at certain times a 
line of printed fabrics produced which 
are very similar to the woven material 
which we have analyzed. The ground 
cloth used in such cases is a grey 
cloth of just about the same construc- 
tion as the one which has been an- 
alyzed and which is first bleached and 
then printed with an irregular or all- 
over pattern which closely resembles 
the woven effect noted in this cloth. 
Naturally, because of manufacturing 
faits, there is not so wide a difference 
between the cost of the printed and 
dyed material as in most fabrics of 



such character, and for this reason, 
buyers are apt to prefer the stock- 
dyed cloth. 

Because of the appearance of the 
fabric it would not be expected that 
it would be sold at any exceptionally 
high retail price, or compete in any 
way with the high-class novelty cloths 
now offered, but it does offer quite 
an attractive appearance, and it can 
be sold so as to allow a fair margin 
of profit to the various sellers and 
also to the mills which manufacture 
it. One of these cloths is selling at 
9| cents per yard by the mill selling 
house to the jobber. This makes it 
possible for the latter to sell at about 
10J cents a yard to the retailer, who 
can offer the cloth to the consumer at 
15 cents a yard. Other similar fab- 
rics are being sold at prices which 
place them in the 19-cent retail class, 
hut it is probable that few are selling 
at any higher figures. Inasmuch as 
this cloth weighs about 31 yards per 
pound, the mill selling price with 
cloth at 9J cents a yard, is about 36 
cents a pound, a good price when the 
production costs are compared with 
ordinary grey cloths. An analysis of 
the fabric shows the following de- 
tails: 

Cloth width finished, 32". 
Warp count finished, 40". 
Filling count finished, 34". 
threads in warp 2/8 — 1 262 — 2/8 = 1,294 

total ends. 
Warp size 12/1 "mock twist. - ' 
Filling' size 12/1 "mock twist." 
Width in the reed, 35%". 
Reed, 18 (2 ends per dent.) 
Warp take-up, 7%. 
Warp weight per yard, .1380 
Filling weight per yard, .1197 
Yards per pound, 3.88 
Plain weave. 

The standard of twist in the filling 
in many of these cloths is about the 
same as it is for the warp yarn used. 
This makes a stronger filling, which, 
of course, is not at all necessary, but 
it also makes the filling effect the 
same as that of the warp yarn, often 
a more important feature in some ma- 
terials, although it is not always not- 
ed and not entirely necessary. Dur- 
ing the last year or so all kinds of 
special yarn effects have been in de- 
mand for the making of cloths, not 
only when colors are used but also 
when irregular effects such as those 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



53 



used in eponge are considered, and it 
is very likely that the making of spe- 
cial cloths or constructions has com- 
pelled manufacturers to realize that 
there are unlimited possibilities in 
the making of cloth, which, up to the 
present have hardly been attempted, 
but which will receive a great deal 
more attention in the future. The ob- 
taining of experience is bound to show 
in the quality or variety of fabrics 
produced in domestic mills, in fact, 
it is already noticeable in the greater 
variety and more attractive appear- 
ance of the fabrics now offered, and 
in the profits which are being secur- 
ed in their making. 

It has already been noted that the 
quality of the yarn used in a good 
many fabrics similar to that analyzed 
is not especially high, and is, there- 
fore, made in a manner to result in a 
low cost of production. A good many 
coarse yarns of the si/es used in the 
cloth are made from single roving on 
a spinning frame, but this method is 
impossible for the yarn considered, 
for it is necessary to have double rov- 
ing on the spinning frame, so as to 
obtain the twisted effect. When sin- 
gle roving is used, it is possible to 
make yarn of the sizes considered 
with two processes of fly frames, but 
when double roving is used on the 
spinning frame it woi.ld be necessary 
to have three processes of fly frames, 
so as to obtain practical mf nufactur- 
ing conditions. One layout for 12s-l 
warp, which may give a general idea 
as to the draft and sizes at the va- 
rious frames, is as follows: 

L2/1 carded "mock twist" warp. 
1 yd. = .6944 grs. 

.0098 2% contraction in twist. 

.6805 

9% spinning frame draft. 



6.46 -i- 2 = 3.23 = 2.58 hank roving. 
5 fine frame draft. 



16.15 -4- 2 = 8.08 = 1.03 hank roving. 
iVi intermediate frame draft. 



34.34 -4- 2 = 17.17 = .48 hank roving. 
3% slubber frame draft. 



65 grains finisher drawing sliver. 

65 grains card sliver. 

95 card draft. 

14 oz. lap. 

The method of obtaining the 
weights of the yarn per yard of cloth 



is exactly the same as for any or- 
dinary grey or colored fabrK When 
the material contains any size or fill- 
ing, it should be eliminated by wash- 
ing or boiling, but care should be ex- 
ercised in obtaining the take-ups be- 
fore the boiling out process, as the 
fabric may shrink quite a little when 
treated in a small piece. One fact 
which is often of importance is that 
stock-dyed yarns are not likely to be 
lighter in the cloth than they are 
when they come from the spinning 
room, a condition which is often not- 
ed, sometimes to an excessive degree, 
on yarns which are dyed after they 
are spun and handled in a number of 
processes. Dyed yarns have never 
been considered light enor-;h when 
compared with the sizes of the yarn 
as they come from the spinning frame. 
The process for the fabric considered 
is as follows: 

1,294 ends -r- (12/1 X 840) = .1283. weight 

of warp yarn per yard without take-up. 
7% take-up in weaving. 
.1283 -=- .93 = .1380, total weight of warp 

yarn per yard of woven cloth. 

34 picks X 35%" width In reed X 36" 

36" 

= 1,207 yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,207 h- (12/1 X 840) = .1197, total weight 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
.1380 + .1197 = .2577, total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -f- .2577 = 3.88 yards per lb. 



■» « » 



PRINTED SILKALINE 

There is one line of fabrics which 
has a more or less regular sale, and 
which, for a number of reasons, is of 
much interest. This is the fabric 
which is known as silkaline, although 
it must be admitted that the count and 
yarns used in producing it will vary 
to quite an extent. In a general way 
the material is of a light character, 
usually weighing more than eight 
yards per pound in 36-inch cloth and 
in the majority of cases probably 
between 10 and 11 yards per pound 
in the grey state. The effects 
produced on the cloth are made en- 
tirely by the finishing process and 
consist largely of floral patterns, oft- 
en in quite a number of colors. 

Styles of figures and the colors 
used will change somewhat, but the 
distribution of these lines offers op- 



54 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



portunities which are not noted in 
many of the higher priced fabrics for 
building up an output and a reputa- 
tion. Silkalines are used for a wide 
variety of coverings, and recently 
printed cloth coverings have been ap- 
plied to articles never before treated 
in such a manner, thus giving a large- 
ly increased sale. They are used for 
curtains, a certain range of styles for 
drapery purposes, portieres, and, in 
fact, for any use where a light fabric is 
suitable, but one which' has desirable 
decorations and can be purchased at 
a relatively low price. There is much 
which might be said regarding the 



paratively few, and when plain weave 
is used the greatest amount of cloth 
firmness is obtained. Plain weave is 
also used, because any woven effect 
is not very prominent when fine or 
comparatively fine yarns are used 
in making the cloth, and would 
be a waste of effort, because it would 
increase the cost of making with 
very little advance in style, and 
in addition the printing operation is 
very likely to cover up and render 
valueless any patterns which may be 
woven. Inasmuch as plain weave is 
used almost entirely, this cloth can 
^f. made successfully on an automatic 




.iv : ■- 



*■*$• . 



&*H 



1 1 H I 



3 ... 



f'S. 






Printed Silkaline. 



producing of the patterns which are 
used on this style of cloth, but they 
are largely ornamental ones, and their 
beauty depends upon the adaptability 
and also upon the blending of the col- 
oi s to produce the desired effect. 

Sometimes the use of one color 
which does not. harmonize with the 
others may render undesirable an 
otherwise beautiful result, so a good 
many features must be considered in 
this style of cloth which are seldom 
thought of when woven effects are be- 
ing made. 

The foundation cloth which is used 
in the production of silkaline is most 
always made with plain weaves. This 
is necessary, because the number of 
threads and picks per inch are corn- 



loom, although, for various reasons, 
some mills have never adopted them. 
Of course, there is not so much sav- 
ing through the use of automatic 
looms on fine as there is on coarse 
cloth, but with competition as keen as 
it is to-day, every new appliance which 
brings about economy must be used or 
profits are likely to be small and ir- 
regular. The reason fine cloth is 
not made as successfully as coarse on 
an automatic loom is because fine 
warp is not so strong as coarse and 
will break more easily, thus causing 
a loss of production. Fine cloth usu- 
ally contains a large number of 
threads per inch, thus increasing the 
number of stops per loom. Automatic 
loom warps must be made strong, so 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



55 



as to have few breakages if the great- 
est advantage is to be obtained from 
the automatic filling or shuttle-chang- 
ing attachment. 

Practically all the fabrics which are 
used in the production of silkalines 
are made from grey yarns, a fact 
which results in the lowest possible 
cost of production. Fabrics are pro- 
duced both from carded and from 
combed yarns, the price varying ac- 
cording to the kind of yarns used, the 
cloth construction purchased and the 
demand noted at any particular time. 
One construction, which is used exten- 
sively is 72 x 60, containing 50-1 warp 
and 80-1 filling, and weighing about 
ten yards per pound in the grey state. 
The price for a combed cloth of this 
character is likely to be somewhere in 
the vicinity of 5 to 5% cents per yard, 
while that of a carded one is likely to 
be about 4% cents per yard, although 
sales have been made at various times 
at much below these figures. 

The fabric which we have analyzed is 
somewhat similar to the one previous- 
ly mentioned, inasmuch as the warp 
contains the same number of threads 
per inch and the yarns are very sim- 
ilar, although the picks per inch are 
slightly less. 

The details regarding this cloth are 
as follows: 

Width of cloth finished 36 inches. 

Width of cloth grey 36 inches. 

Width of warp in the reed 38 inches. 

Threads per inch finished 72. 

Threads per inch grey 72. 

Picks per inch finished 52. 

Picks per inch grey 51. 

Threads in warp 2/10 2,564 2/10 = 2,604. 

total ends. 
Reed 34 (2 ends per dent). 
Warp size 50/1 carded. 
Filling size 75/1 carded. 
Warp take-up 4%. 
Warp weight .0646 per yard. 
Filling weight .0314 per yard. 
Yards per pound 10.42 grey. 

Inasmuch as the grey cloth is more 
or less of a staple fabric, there is a 
good deal of competition among the 
mills which produce it and profits are 
regulated somewhat by the economy 
which is practiced in the manufactur- 
ing processes. The yarns used are 
about as fine as can be produced sat- 
isfactorily from carded stock, and the 
labor cost will vary to a much great- 
er extent than in the coarser lines. 
Not only will che labor costs vary, but 



the stock used will also differ, partly 
because of the machinery available 
and partly because of the quality of 
the fabric desired. 

The warp is usually of coarser size 
than the filling, for such a method 
allows it to be handled more satisfac- 
torily, while the filling is ready for use 
when the spinning operation is com- 
pleted and can be made into finer yarn 
from the same length of cotton sta- 
ple. This same condition is noted on 
a large proportion of ordinary print 
cloths, for although warp and filling 
are made of the same cotton, the size 
of the warp is less than that of the 
filling, being 30-1 for warp and 38-1 
for filling. Probably both warp and 
filling for this cloth would be pro- 
duced from cotton, which is about one 
and one-quarter inches in length, al- 
though the staple used for a plain 
fabric is somewhat shorter than for 
one which has any special features. 

A general idea regarding the mill 
layout for making these yarns may be 
obtained from the following schedule: 

50/1 carded warp. 
.1667 grains per yard. 

.98 2% contraction in twist. 



.1634 

10 spinning frame draft. 



1.634 
6.6 

5.39 
5.5 

14.85 
4.4 

32.69 
3.7 

60 
45 
12 

75/1 

.1111 

.98 

.1089 
9 

.9S01 
6.9 

3.38 
5.9 

9.97 
5.3 

26.44 
4.5 

60 
45 
12 



-4- 2 = .817 = 10.2 hank roving, 
jack frame draft. 

-4- 2 = 2.70 = 3.08 hank roving, 
second intermediate frame draft. 

-=- 2 = 7.43 = 1.12 hank roving, 
first intermediate frame draft. 

-h 2 = 16.35 = .51 hank roving, 
slubber frame draft. 

grains finisher drawing sliver, 
grains card sliver, 
oz. lap. 

carded filling. 

grains per yard. 

2% contraction in twist. 



spinning frame draft. 

-=- 2 = .49 = 17 hank roving, 
jack frame draft. 

-=- 2 = 1.69 = 4.93 hank roving, 
second intermediate frame draft. 

~- 2 = 4.99 = 1.67 hank roving, 
first intermediate frame draft. 

-=- 2 = 13.22 = .63 hank roving, 
slubber frame draft. 

grains finisher drawing sliver 
grains card sliver, 
oz. lap. 



56 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Naturally on any carded yarns as 
fine as those used there must be as 

MUCH CARE EXERCISED 

in mixing the cotton bales and in hav- 
ing the machinery in good operating 
condition as there would be if combed 
yarn were to be produced. The 
use of a cotton which is too short 
or excessive drafts on any frame will 
probably handicap the weave room se- 
riously and make the percentage of 
production in that department decline 
radically, and will ultimately affect 
the cost of production more than if 
a reasonable policy had been adopted 
in the yarn making. 

Some manufacturers prefer to use 
but two processes of pickers when 
yarn of this character is being made, 
mainiy because the longer staple cot- 
ton is not so dirty and a smaller 
amount of beating is likely to pre- 
serve the fibre length better. As 
evenness is largely responsible for 
yarn strength the number of doublings 
is increased over that of the yarns 
used in many ordinary cloths, for 
there are three processes of drawing, 
and practically always four processes 
of fly frames. 

Single roving is never used on the 
spinning frame, as yarn made in this 
manner would not be sufficiently 
strong. When automatic looms are 
in use it is a good policy to use a 
somewhat better quality of cotton as 
this method will increase the weav- 
ing production, although mere is a 
certain point where the higher cost 
of cotton will more than onset tne 
added loom production. The card 
production is decreased so that it is 
not over three-quarters as much as 
when making many ordinary carded 
yarns, oftentimes the production be- 
ing about 85 to 90 pounds per day. 

FINISHING. 

The fabric as received by the fin- 
ishing works is in what is called the 
grey state; that is, the cloth is prac- 
tically the same as the cotton when 
received at the mill, except that it 
is a different state, being cloth instead 



of raw cotton. Fabrics such as that 
considered are not generally finished 
by the mill which produces them, but 
by a party usually called a converter, 
who obtains a price from the various 
finishers for accomplishing the work, 
and who afterwards sells the goods. 
Some finishers also act in the same 
capacity as a converter, for they pur- 
chase the grey cloth from mills and 
finish it as they themselves desire, 
and then sell to the jobber in a meth- 
od very similar to that of the con- 
verter. 

Naturally, on some lines the finish- 
er, when he acts as a converter, has 
a certain advantage over the ordinary 
converter, although on other lines this 
is not so evident. The cloth is first 
boiled off and bleached so that the 
size, cotton wax and other impurities 
present will be removed. When the 
cloth is in the white state or practi- 
cally similar to many low count lawns 
or like fabrics, it is subjected to a 
further process which consists of run- 
ning through a printing machine, 
which machine places upon the fabric 
the colored pattern which is desired. 
Each different figured pattern pro- 
duced has to have a separate set of 
rolls. These rolls are compos- 
ed of copper and the pat- 
tern is engraved on them, 
the sunken portion containing the col- 
or, and, by contact, the cloth as it 
passes over the roll takes up the 
color. Instead of the dyestuff being 
in a liquid state, as in the ordinary 
ayeing operation, it is thickened with 
various gums and starches and made 
up into a paste form so that when 
taken up by the copper roll it will 
remain in the engraved portion. Ex- 
cess color paste is removed from the 
roll before it comes in contact with 
the cloth by a finely ground knife 
edge. Each color on the cloth is rep- 
resented by a separate roll in the ma- 
chine; that is, for a pattern with five 
colors employed there would be five 
rolls used, each roll being engraved 
for the portion of the pattern where 
its color is used, with a sufficient al- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



57 



lowance for the spread of the color 
paste when it is taken up by the fab- 
ric. 

After the printing process the colors 
which are placed upon the cloth are 
set so as to make them satisfactory 
for wear, the method of setting de- 
pending on the colors used. As a 
last process, before folding, packing 
and shipping, the cloth is subjected to 
a heavy calendering process, which 
imparts to the cloth the glazed sur- 
face which reflects the light and 
makes the fabric have a silk-like lus- 
tre. Of course, this glazed surface 
and lustre is not permanent, but it 
serves to make the fabric surface 
smoother and very much less likely to 
soil. 

PRICES. 

As stated previously, there is quite 
a little competition on these fabrics, 
not only among the grey cloth makes, 
but also among the parties who dis- 
tribute them in the finished state. 
The 72x60 ten-yard combed regular 
grey goods have been sold at a com- 
paratively recent date for iy 2 cents 
per yard, although the quoted price 
is somewhat higher. The price for 
finishing will vary in the different 
plants and also according to the kind 
of pattern and number of colors used. 
For an ordinary printed fabric sim- 
ilar to that analyzed, and which con- 
tains no special features, the entire 
finishing price is about one and one- 
quarter cents per yard for patterns in 
which two colors are used, one and 
one-half cents per yard for patterns 
in which four colors are used, one 
and three-quarters cents per yard for 
patterns in which six colors are used, 
and two cents per yard for practically 
all other styles. Some finishers add 
one-eighth of a cent per yard for each 
additional color, beginning at one and 
one-quarter cents for two-color work. 

On this basis the cost of finishing 
the cloth considered would be one and 
three-quarters cents per yard. It often 
is the case that an overall price is 
made to cover the selection made for 
the entire order, which is, perhaps, 
a more satisfactory method for many 
cloths, inasmuch as the converter 



usually sells the whole color line at 
a regular set price, making no differ- 
ence in price in regard to the number 
of colors used in the pattern. The 
jobber's purchase price is usually 
about seven and one-half cents per 
yard, and in some cases the fabric i» 
sold to the retailer at from eight and 
one-half cents to eigh and three- 
quarters cents per yard. 

The retail price in a good many in- 
stances is 12 or 12y 2 cents per yard, 
and in some cases 15 cents per yard 
is asked, this mainly because mate- 
rial is sold in the upholstery depart- 
ment, Where the cost of selling is 
rather high and where excessive prof- 
its are sometimes made. There is 
very little reason why fabrics such 
as that analyzed should carry any 
higher profits than the ordinary dress 
goods, for the distribution is just 
about as large as for dress goods, 
and the actual costs of selling no 
higher, but in most cases the profit 
is somewhat higher, the extra gain 
being obtained by the retailer alone 
and not by the jobber or converter. 

An examination of the cost as giv- 
en will make the prices and ranges 
of profits of the various sellers clear- 
er. An analysis of a fabric such as 
that considered is not at all diffi- 
cult. It should be remembered that 
the yarn is finer when the cloth is 
sold than when the yarn was spun. 
The warp is likely to be from 5 per 
cent to ten per cent finer, depending 
on the amount of size in the finished 
cloth, while the filling is not likely 
to lose quite so much weight as the 
warp, due to less handling and stretch- 
ing of the cloth in making and finish- 
ing. The method of obtaining the 
yarn and cloth weights for the fabric 
considered is as follows: 

2,604 ends -h (50/1 X 840) = .0620, weight 

of warp per yard without take-up. 
4% take-up in weaving. 
.0620 -f- .96 = .0646 total weight of warp 

per yard of woven cloth. 
52 picks X 38" width in reed X 36" 

= 1,976 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,976 -*- (75/1 X 840) = .0314, weight o 

filling per yard of cloth. 
.0646 + .0314 = .0960, total weight per yard 
1.0000 -=- .0960 = 10.42 yards per lb. (grey) 



58 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



PATTERN. 
2 2 

60/1 Am. carded warp — 2,564 — = 2,604, total ends. 

10 10 

75/1 Am. carded filling, 52 picks. 

34 reed, 38" width in reed, 36" grey width, 36" finished width. 
72 X 52 grey count; 72 X 51 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton. waste, etc. 

50/1 Am. carded warp; 1%" staple; 10 hank dou. rov., 19c. 11 %c. = 30 ^c 

75/1 Am. carded filling; 1%" staple 19c. 15%c. = 34Vac. 

COST. 

2,604 ends 50/1 Am. carded warp -f 4% take-up = .0646 @ 30%c = $ .0199 

52 picks 75/1 Am. carded filling = .0314 @ 34 %c = .0108 

Weaving = .0036 

Expenses = .0046 

$ 0389 
Selling (grey) .0008 

$ .0397 

Price to buyer (about) .0425 

Cost of bleaching, printing, etc .0175 

Cost to converter (not including expenses) $ .0600 

Cost to jobber (about) •. .0750 

Cost to retailer (about) .0875 

Cost to consumer .1250 

Yards per pound 10.42 (grey). 
Plain weave. 



CREPE WEAVE FABRIC 

It is generally well known in the 
cotton goods trade that crepe fabrics 
have been in very good demand, and 
that quite large quantities are being 
sold at present, and, in addition, that 
there will be a more or less general 
sale of such materials in succeeding 
seasons, although, of course, the 
amount sold will depend a good deal 
upon the varying conditions of the 
market. Most of such crepe fabrics 
are produced through the use of hard- 
twisted yarn, usually the filling, and 
being woven in a few instances on an 
ordinary loom, and in the large ma- 
jority of cases produced on a box 
loom, especially tbose fabrics which 
are considered high class and which 
are sold for high prices. Of course, 
crepe fabrics in which hard-twisted 
yarn has been used do sometimes have 
woven figures placed upon them, but 
because of the method of production 
the cloth weave is practically always 
plain or at least very simple, the cloth 
effect being developed entirely by the 
yarns. 

The use of hard-twisted yarn is, 
however, not the only method by 



which a crepe effect can be obtained, 
for they are sometimes made through 
the fabric weave and with regular 
yarns, that is, yarns in which no ex- 
tra twist has been inserted. Naturally, 
a fabric which is made with a crepe 
weave does not appear very similar to 
a fabric made with crepe yarn, but 
the irregularity is present in both 
styles, and for general use it is prob- 
ably true that the crepe weave gives 
a better result on medium or heavy 
weight fabrics, while the crepe yarn 
is unquestionably better on the lighter 
materials; in fact, a crepe weave is of 
little value in many fine cloths, inas- 
much as woven figures do not show up 
well when fine yarns are used. Both 
kinds of crepe fabrics are used for 
dresses, waists and similar purposes, 
and are finished in the various popu- 
lar colors. A feature worth mention- 
ing is that the printed styles of the 
same fabric are being used for trim- 
ming purposes on the solid colors, 
and because the styles of printed pat- 
terns contain colors which are in de 
mand to-day they are having quite a 
distribution for the above purpose. 

As previously stated, yarns used in 
the fabrics considered are no different 
than in many ordinary cloths. A por- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



59 



tion of the cloth was originally made 
of two-ply yarn, and subsequently the 
filling was changed to single yarn 
with the warp remaining of two-ply, 
and later the entire cloth has been 
made from single yarns. 

The two-ply cloths appear to be 
made of combed stock, but at least 
some of the single yarn fabrics are 
made from carded yarns or from yarns 
which are no better than many mills 
can and do produce from carded stock. 
The reason why two-ply yarns are 
used is because the fabric is piece 
mercerized and because they allow a 
softer twist to be usel with a better 



in the ply-yarn material, while 20s-l 
is used in the single yarn fabrics. The 
count is about 84 by 53 in the finished 
cloth, the exact amount varying some- 
what through the yarns used and the 
method of finishing. The yards per 
pound in the grey cloth are about 4.25. 
The more nearly parallel cotton fibres 
are in yarn or cloth the more lustrous 
the material is likely to be when it is 
finished by mercerization, and one rea- 
son why a crepe weave will not be so 
silky in appearance as a soiesette con- 
struction even though the yarns be of 
equal quality in both fabrics is the 
irregular nature of the weave in one 




One of the Crepe Weave Fabrics. 



lustre when finished in much the same 
manner as is noted in the ordinary 
two-ply warp and single filling mer- 
cerized poplin which is having such a 
large sale at present. A comparison 
of the two-ply fabric with the single- 
ply cloth shows that the change lias 
not been of advantage if appearancb 
be considered. Of course, if the crepe 
effect is the desirable feature of the 
cloth, and if a good volume of sales 
can be made in the single yarn mate- 
rial, then it is naturally a good policy 
to sell the single yarn cloth, for it can 
be purchased at a lower price, and 
therefore allows a wider margin of 
profit at the same selling price. 

The yarn used in the cloth is 40s-2 



cloth and the regular appearance in 
the other. 

The kind of weave which is employ 
ed in this fabric is often used for many 
styles of shirting fabrics, and is also 
used extensively in certain kinds of 
dress materials. If there is no great 
objection to a certain amount of regu 
larity in weave it is customary to pro- 
duce the effect on a dobby loom, and 
where a fabric contains stripes of any 
nature this method is found very sat- 
isfactory, for the stripes partially 
eliminate the weave defects. Then it 
is sometimes the practice to combine 
a number of simple weaves in an ir- 
regular manner, thus making an ir- 
regular weave, and, in addition, to use 



60 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



an irregular drawing-in draft on the 
warp. This method partially elimi- 
nates the difficulties, but there are 
likely to be so-called patterns even 
when such a weave is made, and these 
are rather undesirable in a fabric such 
as that considered, and, in addition, 
the making of a crepe pattern with 
an irregular drawing-in draft on a 
dobby loom is likely to cause much 
trouble at the mill, and is avoided by 
the manufacturer whenever pos- 
sible. For the above reason, many 
woven crepe effects are produced on a 
jacquard loom, and this has been done 
in the present weave. 

The effect produced on a jacquard 
loom, through the great number of 
harnesses and the width of the pat- 
tern, tends to eliminate the 
irregularities of weave so that 
there are no long floats in the 
warp or in the filling. A crepe weave, 
to be very desirable, must be made 
with comparatively short floats and 
still contain very little plain weave in 
order to produce the irregularity 
which is desired. It is claimed that 
this fabric was developed in one of 
the mills of the Southern states, and 
because of the wide distribution which 
the fabric nas had, at least four or 
five other mills, some in the North 
and others in the South, have been 
producing it. Without doubt, the fact 
that not all fancy mills contain twist- 
ing spindles may account for a portion 
of the cloth being made from single 
instead of two-ply yarn. 

Sometimes the production of large 
amounts of two-ply cloth tends to up- 
set a mill organization, and for this 
reason, it is sometimes impossible to 
obtain two-ply fabrics in the quanti- 
ties desired, especially when two-ply 
cloths are being sold in quantities. 
Jacquard patterns have been very 
good sellers on other fabrics, and mills 
containing jacquard looms have been 
pretty well supplied with orders, thus 
making it necessary to place contracts 
with different mills in order to obtain 
the total amount of cloth necessary. 

PRICES AND PROFITS. 

The grey cloths used in the produc 
tion of the finished materials are now 
being sold at about 9} cents a yard by 



the mills, and as these single yarr. 
fabrics are being finished and sold 
along with the two-ply article, and at 
the same price, a few statements re 
garding the profits being secured may 
be of interest. 

For the single yarn fabric it will be 
noted from our analysis of cost that 
the net mill cost in the grey state is 
about 8J cents a yard, and as the mill 
selling price is about 9| cents a yard, 
the profit to the mill is about 1 cent a 
yard. With a reasonable loom produc 
tion the net profit per year to the mill 
would be about $102 per loom. This 
amount will return a profit of about 
10 to 12 per cent, depending on the 
mill organization, which is not an ex 
orbitant profit, when the facts of dis- 
tribution and profits being secured on 
grey cloths of the heavier grades are 
considered. Thus it will be seen that 
the mill is not obtaining any exor- 
bitant profits, and the cloth is being 
purchased by the converter at a rea- 
sonable price. 

PRICE FOR BLEACHING 

The price for bleaching, merceriz- 
ing and dyeing, including the casing, 
etc., is not over iy 2 cents per yard. 
Where the cloth is printed in addition, 
the price is about 2y 2 cents per yard. 
This makes the plain materials cost 
the converter about 10% cents per 
yard, without including his various 
selling charges. These are not likely 
to be much over 10 per cent of the 
cost of the goods, but, allowing about 
12 per cent or 1J cents per yard, tue 
total cost to the converter would be 
approximately 12 cents a yard. With 
out doubt, these goods (not printed) 
and composed of single yarns are cost- 
ing the converter somewhat less than 
this amount. The selling price to the 
retailer is about 17 cents a yard, be- 
cause the goods are sold direct. Thus 
it will be seen that the net profit per 
yard on the plain styles is at least 5 
cents a yard. 

The printed fabrics are, many ot 
them, two-ply materials, so, allowing 
the grey cloth price of 10 cents a yard, 
which approximately covers the dil- 
ference in mill cost between single 
and two-ply, and at which undoubtedly 
this material could be purchased, the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



61 



cost to the converter for the printed 
fabric is about 12y 2 cents a yard, not 
including his expenses. Adding 12 
per cent or 1V 2 cents per yard for ex- 
penses, the total cost for this style 
would be about 14 cents a yard. 

THE SELLING PRICE 
to the retailer is about 22y 2 cents a 
yard, or a profit to the converter of 
about 8V 2 cents a yard for the print- 
ed styles. Inasmuch as the distribu- 
tion of the ordinary plain cloth is wid- 
er than for the printed styles, it is 
likely that the net profit will average 
§y 2 cents a yard for this cloth. The 
distribution of the material is quite 
large, the fact that there are a num- 
ber of mills producing it proving this 
statement, so there is little doubt but 
that a total sale of 25,000 pieces or 
even more will be noted. This quan- 
tity is approximately 1,375,000 yards, 
and at a net profit per yard of <o x / 2 
cents, the total profit to the converter 
would be practically $90,000. This ap- 
pears like a very large return, but it 
must be remembered that the con- 
verter's position in the distribution of 
goods allows foT a good deal of chance, 
that is, there are likely to be other 
fabrics on which a loss is sustained 
and other fabrics on which a rather 
small profit is secured, so that the 
good sellers carry along the other fab- 
rics and make a normal profit pos- 
sible. 

SEASON'S INCREASE. 

There are certain seasons when ex- 
penses are increased, because the de- 
mand declines, and there are othei 
years when the reverse is true, al- 
though the 12 per cent expense item 
which we have allowed should be en- 
tirely sufficient for the whole charges 
of a normal season. The development 
of a desirable material at the time when 
it can be sold requires a good deal of 
ability, and the converter is the party 
who is carrying such responsibility. 
No doubt there would have been no 
great production of high-class domes- 
tic merchandise unless the converter 
had educated other buyers and ul- 
timately consumers into its use, 
and under such selling conditions, it 
is only fair that this party should re- 
ceive a rather high return upon his 



transactions. Then it is also true that 
the profit is large in the present in- 
stance, because the goods are sold di- 
rect from the converter to the retail- 
er. This method of selling eliminates 
the jobber, and while it increases 
somewhat the converter's cost of doing 
business, it permits of a wider margin 
of profit than is noted when the job 
ber handles the goods. The converter 
to-day is in a position of advantage, 
and has been responsible for forcing 
a good many domestic manufacturers 
to be progressive. Otherwise, most ol 
them would soon be settled upon one 
or another kind of staple fabric from 
which they either could not or would 
not depart. This is of advantage to 
the industry, as it tends to keep up a 
varied domestic production and in- 
creases the taste of consumers in the 
matter of fabrics and keeps the in- 
dustry in a progressive condition. 

We have already mentioned some of 
the features in regard to the finishing 
of the cloth which is being consider- 
ed. In the first place, it illustrates 
well the fact that not only the besr 
materials which are made of combec 
yarn but also many grades of carded 
work are improved very much through 
the mercerization process when it can 
be done at the prices which are noted 
to-day. We do not state that some of 
this style, or even all of it, is not 
combed work, but if it is such there is 
similar weight carded work which i» 
even better by comparison, so that 
the single yarn cloths anyway may be 
considered on a carded yarn basis, at 
least so far as the result of the finish 
ing processes are concerned. The 
cloth is piece-mercerized, and this can 
be accomplished either before or aftei 
the bleaching operation. 

Possibly in the majority of instances 
it is done before the bleaching takes 
place. The cloth is also piece-dyed, 
and, naturally, solid colors are used 
because the cloth is made entirel: 
from cotton and no cross dyeing proc 
esses are possible. Prices have been 
quoted for this sort of work as low as 
1J cents a yard, but we have in our 
description allowed 1J cents a yard 
as being a more reasonable figure 
and on the safe side, so far as produc- 
tion is considered. 



62 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Where printed patterns are employ- 
ed the fabric ground is left in a white 
state, and the lustre, imparted 
by the mercerization process, 
makes a decided contrast with the 
printed figure. The colors used in 
the printed patterns are those which 
are desirable at present, being ol 
brighter shades than those used other 
years. One of the features which 
helps to set off the figure is the out- 
line in black which makes a clear sep- 
aration between the ground of the 
fabric and the printed figure. 

Prices for printing vary somewhat, 
and in a good many cases are regulat 
ed for the entire order, a price being 
quoted which applies to all fabrics, 
and which is a satisfactory method, 
inasmuch as the materials are sold at 
the same price to jobber or retailer 
regardless of the number of colors 
employed. Where each style has a 
separate quoted price, there is usually 
an advance of about an eighth of a 
cen" a yard for each additional color 
in the printed pattern up to the point 
v here seven or eight colors are used, 
and usually when the cloth is of such 
a highly decorative nature, special fea- 
tures or cloth constructions are likely 
to affect the costs, so that no definite 
prices can be named. 

The obtaining of the yarn weights 
?nd after these the total weight per 
« ard of the fabric is a rather simple 
procedure. A certain number of 
inches of yarn are pulled out of the 
cloth, measured and then weighed on 



an accurate balance, and from this 
the size of the warp and filling can be 
obtained through the use of the stand- 
ard number for cotton, that is, No. 1 
contains 840 yards per pound, No. 2 
twice this number and No. 50 would, 
therefore, contain 42,000 yards per 
pound. The pound basis, when yarn 
weight is considered, is 7,000 grains 
per pound. This separation is needed, 
because when small quantities of yarn 
are weighed on delicate balances the 
weight necessarily is small if accurate 
results are to be obtained. 

The take-up of the warp can be ob- 
tained when the threads are being 
pulled out of the cloth, and the take- 
up on the filling can also be obtained 
in the same way, and by means of a 
simple ratio the reed width can be 
determined approximately when the 
finished cloth width is known. For 
practical purposes the exact cloth 
weight can be ascertained by analysis, 
because the fabric as produced by the 
mill will vary as much as 5 per cent 
in some cases, due to the difference in 
size of yarns and other producing con- 
ditions. The method of obtaining the 
yarn and cloth weights is as follows: 

2,228 ends -5- (40/2 X 840) = .1326, warp 

weight per yard without take-up. 
4% take-up in weaving. 
.1326 -r- .96 = .1381, total warp weight per 

yard of woven cloth. 
56 picks X 2y" reed width X 36" 

= 1,624 yds. 

36" 

of filling yarn per yard of cloth. 
1,624 X (20/1 X 840) = .0966, total weight 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
.1381 + .0966 = .2347, total weight per yd. 
1.0000 -f- .2347 = 4.26 yards per lb. (grey). 



PATTERN. 
Ply yarn warp fabric. 
2 2 

10/2 Am. combed warp — 2, ISO — = 2,228, total ends. 

12 12 

20/1 Am. combed filling; 56 picks. 

::S reed, 29" width in reed, 27-27%" grey width, 26% -26%" finished width. 
82 X 56 grey count. 84 X 53 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Cot- Labor, Twisi- 

ton. waste, etc. ing 

•10/2 Am. combed warp; 1>4" staple; 8 hank dou. row, 15c. 11 %c. 2c. = 28%c. 

20/1 Am. combed filling; 1%" staple; 4% hank dou. rov., 15c. 7%c. = 22%c. 

COST. 

2,228 ends 40/2 Am. combed warp + 4% take-up = .1381 @ 28%c. = $ .0399 

56 picks 20/1 Am. combed filling = .0966 @ 22 %c. = .0272 

Weaving = .0095 

Expenses = .0129 

$ .0895 
Selling (grey) .001S 

Net mill cost (grey) % .0913 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



6:< 



PATTERN. 

Single yarn fabric. 
2 2 

20/1 Am. combed warp — 2,180 — = 2,228, total ends. 

12 12 

20/1 Am. combed filling; 56 picks. 

38 reed, 29" width in reed, 27-27y 2 " grey width. 26%-26%" finished width. 
82 X 56 grey count, 84 X 53 finished count. 

TARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton. waste, etc. 
20/1 Am. combed warp;l%" staple, 4 hank dou. rov., 15c. 7%c. = 22%c. 

20/1 Am. combed filling; lYa" staple; 4% hank dou. rov., 15c. 7%c. = 22%c. 

COST. 

2.228 ends 20/1 Am. combed warp + 4% take-up = -1381 @ 22%c. = $ .0313 

56 picks 20/1 Am. combed filling = -0960 @ 22%c. = .0272 

Weaving — 'S? on 

Expenses = .0129 

$ .0809 
Selling (grey) - 0016 

Net mill cost (grey) S -^25 

Mill selling price to converter (about) « n 

Cost of finishing (bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing) n 

Cost of finishing (printed styles) ■ 02 n n 

Price to retailer (solid colors) about .1700 

Price to retailer (printed styles) about .2250 

Price to consumer (solid colors) .2500 

Price to consumer (printed styles) .3500 

Yards per pound 4.26 (grey). 
Woven on a jacquard loom. 

<•-»-♦ 



COTTON BENGALINE 

There is one cloth which is being 
used largely at present in various 
forms and which, therefore, is of quite 
a little interest to buyers and sellers. 
It is true that so far as the yarns and 
cloth constructions used in producing 
such cloths are concerned the fabrics 
are very similar to the ordinary pop- 
lin, but, due to the method of weaving, 
a wholly differ^ nt appearance results. 
In a general way a bengaline is a 
heavy corded fabric with the cords 
running in the filling direction, but re- 
cently many very similar fabrics have 
been produced with the cords appear- 
ing in the direction of the warp. Of 
course, when warp cords are noted 
the cloth construction is somewhat 
different than when filling cords are 
being produced, and many times they 
are used for the same purposes. Inas- 
much as most of these cloths are noted 
"ftith filling cords, we will confine 
our short description to fabrics of that 
character. That there is a wide range 
of these materials can readily be 
noted by examining offerings of large 
retailers who handle novelty fabrics. 



Not only are these cloths made en- 
tirely from cotton, but they are also 
made from silk and from combinations 
of various materials, mainly from silk 
and cotton. In addition to being made 
of different materials, they are also 
produced in 

DIFFERENT METHODS, 

that is, from grey cotton yarn either 
single or two ply or both and then 
piece dyed and mercerized, and they 
are also made from dyed yarn. Raw 
silk is also used in many of the fab- 
rics, and such materials are dyed 
solid colors in a similar manner to 
that when grey cotton yarns are used, 
and one of the large productions at 
present is obtained from dyed silk 
yarns which through the method of 
weaving produce changeable color ef- 
fects. 

The combination materials are often 
dyed solid colors and in other in- 
stances are cross dyed, a process 
which sometimes results in rathei 
novel effects being produced. Benga- 
line fabrics are used for various pur- 
poses, possibly the largest use being 
for dress materials, both cheap and 
expensive grades, but they are often 



64 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



printed in colors and are used for 
draperies, hangings and similar pur- 
poses. Some of the warp cords are 
used extensively for men's shirting 
materials, for the making in this man- 
ner allows a somewhat wider variety 
of pattern. 

These same materials are also used 
for ladies' waistings and for children's 
dresses. Certain expensive bengaline 
fabrics are also used largely for trim- 
ming purposes, both in solid colors 
and in a printed and enbossed state. 
It may be a fact that some years the 
sale of certain styles is rather small 
when they a.e compared with staple 



In a good many fabrics which con- 
sumers purchase as all silk, there is 
a cotton filling used, but the silk warp 
covers up the cctton filling and allows 
the cloth to be produced at a much 
lower price, because the filling often 
forms quite a portion of the clotb 
weight. It is seldom that the warp 
threads per inch are less than 100 In 
cotton fabrics and often in silk mate- 
rials there are two or three times as 
many or even more. Naturally, because 
there is a preponderance of warp 
threads in these cloths, the wear is 
practically all sustained by this yarn, 
and as warp is made of longer cotton 




Special Silk Bengaline Having a Changeable Color Effect 



lines, but the variety of constructions 
is quite extensive, thus giving a large 
total sale. 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 

Inasmuch as bengalines are some 
what similar to poplins, it is generally 
true that the warp is of 
finer yarn and has a high- 
er count than the filling. In a 
good many cases the number of picks 
per inch is not over one-half the num- 
ber of threads per inch. This method 
of constructing a fabric allows the 
warp yarn to cover up to a large ex- 
tent the filling, and often makes it 
possible to lose a lower grade of filling 
than might otherwise be the case. 



and with a higher standard of twist 
than filling, the cloth can be consid- 
ered as giving except onal wear. This 
is especially true of the bengalines 
made of cotton yarn with a two-ply 
warp, for they are just about as serv- 
iceable as the ordinary poplins, and 
these are now becoming recognized 
as offering one of the best values of 
any woven fabric. 

A good many cotton bengalines are 
now made with soft twist two-ply warp, 
a fact which increases the cost of mak- 
ing but which allows the cloth to be 
piece mercerized, thus increasing verj 
much its attractiveness and making 
the policy worth while. Without doubt, 
mercerization w 11 be employed much 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



65 



more extensively on some of the sin- 
gle yarn bengalines in the future, for 
it is being ascertained that the results 
fully warrant the added expense. 

FABRIC WEAVE. 

Because they are so similar to ordi- 
nary poplins, the general cloth con- 
struction features of bengalines are 
easily understood, but the method of 
producing the corded effects is not 
so well known, especially outside of 
manufacturing circles. Some of the 
effects are mad3 on ordinary plain 
looms, while others are made on box 
looms which can weave two picks ot 
any size or color of yarn, and still 
others, especially when a large amount 
of silk is used, are produced on a pick 
and pick loom where a single pick 
of any size or color of yarn can be 
woven. The weave would ordinarily be 
designated as plain. That is, there are 
usually only two harnesses necessary, 
and the warp threads are drawn in in 
regular order, the cord being formed 
by the harnesses remaining stationary 
while a number of picks are being 
placed in the same shade. Sometimes 
the take-up pawl is lifted when the 
cord is being formed, thus placing in 
the cloth more picks than the loom 
pick gear would indicate, while at 
other times the pawl is not lifted, the 
natural tendency of the weave forcing 
the picks into a cord when the har- 
nesses remain stationary. The above 
policy is adopted where an ordinary 
loom is used and where only one size 
of filling yarn can be woven. 

Dobby looms are most always used 
in making bengalines of this character 
because orders are comparatively 
small and cams are expensive and 
often do not hold picks enough to 
make them practical, and the use 
of a dobby allows the filling thread to 
be caught and held out in a satisfac- 
tory manner when the cord is being 
formed. Box looms are used when 
different rizes or colors of filling are 
being used, and in a good many caseb 
produce a rounder cord and a some- 
what greater yardage even at a slower 
loom speed. When picks are forced into 
the shade to produce a round cord 
with only a single size of filling used 
it is likely to cause an excessive strain 



on the warp yarn and result in a 
great deal of trouble in the weaving 
operation. We are illustrating the 
weave on one of the ordinary fabrics 
which contains but one size of filling'. 
It will be noted that we have made 

TWO REPEATS OF THE WEAVE 

in the filling direction, this being nec- 
essary because two picks are placed 
on a chain bar in a good many in- 
stances. We are also illustrat- 
ing a special silk fabric which 
has a changeable color ef- 
fect. This weave is identical 
with the ordinary three harness twill, 
but becausa of the different yarn sizes 
which are employed in the filling and 
the different colors which are used 
in the warp an entirely different effect 
is produced, and no one from a super- 
ficial examination of the cloth wiuld 
consider tha 1 . the weave was similar 
to that of many simple twill fabrics. 
In the first cloth the cord is produced 
by placing a number of picks of the 
same filling in one shade, while in the 
other fabric the cord is produced by 
inserting a very much heavier pick of 
filling. 

Due to the stiffness of the cords the 
ordinary bengaline cloth does not 
shrink very much in the weaving 
operation, often only one-half to one 
inch from reed to cloth, and certain 
snecial fabrics have an even smaller 
shrinkage than the amount named. 
As a general thine the cloth weave is 
very simple the cords being at various 
spacings up to "bout three-eighths of 
an inch apart, and sometimes of differ- 
ent sizes, the fancy effects being al- 
most entirely + ha result of yarn and 
color combinations, and in som: cases 
of both. Because the weaves which 
are used are very simple, in many 
cases being just about the same as 
that of a piain sheeting, it might be 
supposed that an omatic k jms would 
be used in the production o some of 
the all-cottor. fabrics, bu thi,* is not 
done, mainly because the losses du& 
to seconds increase as tl*e clodi value 
is higher, and also because the weav- 
ing cost is a much smaller proportion 
of the total cost than on some of the 
cheaper lines where they can be suc- 
cessfully used. Fewer automatic 



66 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



looms per weaver would be necessary, 
and this would naturally cut down the 
possible savings so that they are not 
used. Most bengalines would be con- 
sidered heavy fabrics, even the ones 
made entirely of silk being of quite 
good weight because of the cords 
used. 

FINISHING RESULTS. 

A good many of the all-cotton cloths 
are mercerized to-day in addition to the 
processes which were formerly em- 
ployed, and because of the use of this 
process, the yarns composing the fab- 
ric are of somewhat different con- 
struction than they previously were. 



ton to anywhere near as great an ex- 
tent as it did the longer staples, but 
the variation in result has been found 
to be from manufacturing conditions 
more than from the chemical process 
employed. Long cotton yarns can be 
twisted very much less than short 
ones, and still have them practical for 
a mill, and the less twist a yarn has 
the more nearly parallel the fibres are, 
and the greater the lustre obtained 
when the cloth is mercerized. 

Some fabrics have been made in 
large quantities with filling spun on a 
ring frame with a standard of twist be- 
low 2J times the square root of the 
yarn size, but it was done with a 




The Fabric Analyzed. 



The warp yarn in such cloths is often 
of two-ply, and contains a compara- 
tively small amount of twist, for this 
produces Letter results when finished. 
It is also true that Egyptian cotton is 
used to quite an extent in yarns or 
cloths which are to be mercerized, but 
this is not so true as it previously 
was, for the yarns in woven cloth 
have been found to be satisfactory 
when made of American cotton. 

If all the fabrics which are sold to- 
day, and which contain mercerized 
yarn or are piece mercerized, contain- 
ed Egyptian cotton, there would be a 
very much greater amount imported 
than there is at present. It used to be 
considered that the mercerization 
process did not affect the short cot- 



long staple cotton, and price competi 
tion has made such a policy rather 
impossible at present, due to the ex 
tra price for cotton. Sometimes ben 
galine fabrics Lre printed with 

VARIOUS PATTERNS 

which make them very attractive, the 
colors and styles of figures varying 
with the season. Many of the good 
mercerized materials which are made 
from fine cotton yarns approach very 
closely the effects which can be ob- 
tained from similar silk fabrics. Be- 
cause of such facts, many of the silk 
bengalines are made to-day in change- 
able effects. One cloth contains a 
warp of three colors, one thread of 
black, one thread of green and one 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



67 



thread of blue regularly throughout 
the whole warp. Because of the cloth 
construction, the black yarn weaves 
in such a manner that it appears only 
on the back of the fabric, while the 
green anri jji ut , threads alternating on 
the face creace a changeable appear- 
ance. 

The filliug consists of two picks of 
silk yarn and one pick of heavy cot- 
ton, which heavy pick produces the 
corded effect. Both kinds of filling 
are dyed a red color, a fact which 
makes a red and black changeable ef- 
fect on the back of the cloth. Inas- 
much as the large amount of warp 
(two-thirds of the total amount) is on 
the face, it covers up the filling en- 
tirely. In addition to the color effect, 
many of these silk or part silk cloths 
are treated to an embossing process, 
which method presses a figure upon 
the fabric very similar in appearances 
to a jacquard woven effect. Because 
the cloths have such heavy cords, the 
results of embossing are much more 
prominent and last much longer than 
they do on many other kinds of fab- 
rics, in fact, a woven effect could not 
be used to produce the kinds of fig- 
ures which the embossing process 
does. 

These embossed fabrics are practi- 
cally never washed, so that the meth- 
od gives satisfactory results. Change- 
able effects are not always similar to 
that described, for they often have a 
bar effect rather than an all-over one. 
Without doubt, the increased demand 
for high priced and different materials 
has resulted in the production of many 
rather new effects or the variation of 
old ones in an attractive manner. It 
is not always necessary to have a 
fancy weave or complicated machin- 
ery in order to produce attractive 
cloth results, a fact which has recent- 
ly been recognized by some of the man- 
ufacturers who produce even the lowest 
quality of goods, but who, through 
ability and slight changes in their 
fabrics, have been able to obtain high- 
er prices with no great advance in 
their costs. One of the greatest les- 
sons the American manufacturer is 
1 .arning to-day is the power of adapt- 
ability, and this will show results in 
more attractive materials in the fu- 



ture, if he is not forced into competi- 
tion too keenly by the present meth- 
ods of selling. 

LOSSES IN FINISHING. 
Possibly, one of the facts which 
has never been investigated at all 
regarding cloths is the loss and in 
some cases the gain which they have 
in the finishing processes. This does 
not mean the features which result 
from the addition of starch or vari- 
ous fillings, but the actual facts con- 
cerning the yarns and cloth construc- 
tion. It has generally been consider- 
ed that a dyed piece of cloth will 
weigh just about the same amount 
per yard as the grey cloth when it 
comes from the loom, but this is ab- 
solutely incorrect in the majority of 




The Weave. 

cases, even with the addition of slz« 
ing material, for, in most cases, accu- 
rate experiments will prove that the 
cloth is somewhat lighter. 

There has be^n no great necessity 
for experiments being made along 
these lines, in fact, there are very few 



68 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



opportunities for accurate investiga- 
tions of these conditions. The cloth 
we have analyzed has been treated 
very carefully, and the warp, which 
was approximately 60s-2 when used 
at the mill, in the finished cloth is 
66s-2, while the filling, which was ap- 
proximately 35s-l in the grey, in the 
finished state is about 37s. 5-1. In this 
case the warp yarn loses about the 
same amount as the filling, but other 
fabric constructions may show entire- 
ly different results. The fabric con- 
tained 54 picks per inch when it was 
in the grey state, but, due to the 
stretch in finishing, it contains only 
52 picks when sold. Not only does 
the yarn size change when the cloth 
is finished, but it is likely to be some- 
what different when various parties 
handle it. The stretch in finishing 
oftentimes has something to do with 
the lighter size of the warp, although 
this is not always the case. 

Results on fabrics which are made 
with dyed yarns are much easier to 
obtain, because the processes are usu- 
ally accomplished in a single plant, 
and the cloth can be followed careful- 
ly. In the analysis of fabrics which 
are woven of grey yarn and then fin- 



ished, a great deal of care must be 
exercised in determining the yarn 
sizes which are to be Uoed in weaving 
the cloth, and to base all estimates 
on the finished yarn in cloth is not a 
correct policy, and is one reason why 
the duplicating of cloth is not always 
the success which some buyers antici- 
pate. When the grey yarn sizes have 
been correctly estimated, and the 
threads and picks per inch in the 
grey cloth obtained, the cloth and 
yarn weights can be readily found 
and a fabric can easily be duplicated. 
In a bengaline cloth the warp take- 
up is usually greater than for a good 
many ordinary materials in which the 
same or similar yarn sizes are used. 
The method of obtaining the weights 
of the yarn and the weight of the grey 
cloth is as follows: 

2,920 ends -r- (60/2 X 840) = .1159, warp 

weight per yard without take-up. 
9% take-up in weaving. 
.1159 -r- .91 = .1274, total weight of warp 

yarn per vard of woven cloth. 
54 picks X 28%" width in reed X 36" 

= 1,552.5 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,552.5 -H (35/1 X 840) = .0528, total 

weight of filling per yard of woven cloth. 
.1274 + .0528 = .1802, total weight per 

yard. 
1.0000 -h .1802 = 5.55 yards per lb. (grey). 



Cotton Bengaline. 

PATTERN. 
2 2 

60/2 Am. combed warp — 2,824 — = 2,920, total ends. 

24 24 

S5/1 Am. combed filling; 54 picks. 

50 reed, 28%" width in reed, 28" grey width, 27" finished width. 
104 X 54 grey count; 107 X 52 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Cot- Labor, Twist- 
ton, waste, etc. ing. 

60/2 Am. combed warp; 1%" staple; 12 hank dou. rov., 23c. 19%c. 3%c. = 46%c. 

35/1 Am. combed filling; 1%" staple; S hank dou. rov., 15c. 9%c. = 24%c. 

COST. 

2,920 ends 60/2 Am. combed warp + 9% take-up = .1274 @ 46%c = t .0591 

54 picks 35/1 Am. combed filling = .0528 @ 24%c = .0129 

Weaving .0079 

Expenses .0096 

$ .0895 
Selling (grey ) .0018 

$ .0913 

Mill selling price (about) .1025 

Bleaching, finishing, dyeing, mercerizing .0150 

Converter's expenses .0100 

Total cost to converter (about) $ .1275 

Price to jobber (about) .1400 

Price to retailer (about) .1750 

Price to consumer .2500 

Yards per pound 5.55 (grey). 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



t» 



MIXTURE MOIRE 

There is developing in the domes- 
tic market a very much larger de- 
mand for all kinds of pressed figures 
than has been noted for some years 
and of these lines moire is one of 
the leading styles. A good many of 
the pressed patterns now selling have 
been developed because of the demand 
for large woven figures, not only in 
silk but also in cotton and wool, and 
without doubt these large woven fig- 
ures cannot be satisfactorily pro- 
duced on a good many of the cloths 
now in demand, so that the pressing 
or embossing method offers opportu- 
nities in producing large effects not 
otherwise obtainable. 

It is claimed that the demand has 
recently been so good for certain of 
these lines that stocks have been 
practically cleaned up and that new 
merchandise is not readily obtainable 
especially in desirable weights. The 
various results are obtained almost 
entirely from different finishing proc- 
esses which are given th goods after 
they are woven, the prices varying 
according to the methods necessary, 
the quantity of cloth to be handled, 
and the demand for merchandise. 

A CERTAIN CLASS 

of pressed fabrics is continually 
sold in greater or less amounts and 
is used for different kinds of linings, 
book bindings, women's hats, portiers 
and similar purposes, although, of 
course, the large sale develops when 
such pressed materials can be used for 
dresses, trimmings and coatings. The 
process is applied to fabrics of differ- 
ent weights and constructions, but 
it is probable that the best and most 
permanent results are secured on 
what might be called the heavier 
lines. 

Fabrics which are to be pressed 
are often made entirely from silk, 
although mixture materials are also 
sold extensively, as this allows the 
cloths to be produced at a lower price 
and the effects obtained are just 
about as satisfactory as if all silk 
had been used, while for certain uses 
fabrics made entirely from cotton are 



of advantage. Due to the character 
of most woolen yarns, there are very 
few attempts to press patterns upon 
cloth woven from this material. It is 
sometimes done, but the results are 
not often used for dress purposes, as 
the pressing makes the cloth, when 
composed of wool, rather impenetra- 
ble to air, which is of importance in 
dress materials. 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 

A good many of the fabrics which 
are now selling are woven with a silk 
warp and a cotton filling, thus making 
them very similar to many of the 
other mixture cloths sold in large 
quantities and more or less regularly 
This sort of cloth could be made i: 
fancy cotton mills successfully, though 
it is probable that comparatively few 
of them are, due to the large numbei 
of threads per inch. In a general way 
the cloth construction often is tht 
same as for many silk and cotton pop 
lins, with a large number of threads 
per inch of silk yarn and a compara 
tively small number of picks per inch 
of cotton yarn. 

The weave is plain in a good many 
cases, as this producas a firm cloth 
and allows a good foundation for 
the finishing effect, and does not break 
up the effect which is desired to be 
produced when the cloth is pressed. 
One feature is that the filling or cot- 
ton yarn is often a twisted one. 
Through this method, the yarn size 
is likely to be more regular and fewer 
cotton fibres are likely to project, 
thus making a smoother fabric when 
woven. Not only does the ply yarn 
produce a fabric more similar to an 
entire silk one, but it is of advantage 
in obtaining the kind of effect desired, 
and a more lasting one than if single 
yarn had been used. The large num- 
ber of silk warp threads are likely 
to cover up to a large extent the cot- 
ton yarn filling, and because of the 
difference in the yarn sizes between 
warp and filling a corded cloth is pro- 
duced with the ribs running in the 
filling direction. 

The loom production is quite 
large when compared with many 
other styles of rather ex- 
pensive cloth, mainly because 
there are so few picks per 



70 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



inch. It might be supposed that some 
of these mixture cloths would be pro- 
duced on automatic looms, but this 
is not true, inasmuch as the weaving 
cost is so small a portion of the total 
expense and inasmuch as care must 
be exercised in the weaving opera- 
tions. It is, however, true that some 
of the all-cotton fabrics are produced 
in this manner, for they are only ordi- 
nary plain cloths, and there is quite 
a little advantage obtained through 
the use of automatic machinery. 
Because the production is rather large 
per loom the cost of production is 
rather reasonable when th3 weaving 
operation is considered. The shrink- 
age of the warp from reed width to 
woven cloth is rather small and the 
same is true when the fabric is finish- 
ed. The ply filling yarns, partly 
through the cloth construction used, 
appear in the cloth much the same as 
if they were small steel rods and all 
the interweaving is noted on the warp 
yarn. 

Naturally the number of picks 
which any fabric of the kind described 
can contain is limited by the yarn size 
or diameter. With the exception of 
the small space taken up by the fine 
silk warp as it crosses from the face 
to the back of the fabric, the whole 
space is taken up by the filling yarns 
which lie close together in horizon- 
tal lines. The number of picks must 
be nearly as many as the cloth will 
hold else the finished results will not 
be as good as they should be when 
the cloth is pressed. 

METHODS EMPLOYED. 

There are a number of methods 
employed by wnicn pressed figures 
are obtained on cloth. One method, 
and possibly the one used most ex- 
tensively and which is illus- 
trated well by the analyzed 
fabric, is to apply heavy pres- 
sure to the cloth with a smooth 
roll. The material is first folded 
lengthwise or els i two separate widths 
of cloth are used, one on top of the 
other, and while they are in a damp 
state heavy pressure is applied to- 
gether with heat. As will be readily 
noted, where the fabric has been fold- 
ed the pick of one half of the cloth 
or of another piece of cloth slips into 



the space between the picks of the 
opposing fabric, but, due to uneven- 
ness in the material, this does not oc- 
cur throughout the entire cloth width. 
The great pressure used gives the 
smoothness which imparts the cloth 
lustre, for it makes the grooves be- 
tween the picks more regular, while 
the watered effect is produced at the 
points where the picks of one fabric 
slip over the picks of the opposing fab- 
ric and into another groove, thereby 
flattening out the pick over which 
it crosses when the pressure is ap- 
plied. 
A second method is somewhat 

SIMILAR TO THE ONE MENTIONED, 

for the cloth is rolled- up and the 
pressure applied to it in a rolled up 
state. There is another method which 
is used extensively in certain lines 
when an engraved roller is used on 
which fine lines are cut, and while the 
cloth is being treated there is a lateral 
motion which causes a variation in 
the lines pressed into the cloth. Pos- 
sibly the method by which the widest 
variety of patterns is produced, but 
which is rather expensive, is where a 
separate roll is engraved for each 
pattern and on which the cloth con- 
struction may be entirely different 
from what it is in the cloth analyzed. 
This embossing process is practi- 
cally the same in results as the proc- 
ess which is used on paper in so 
many forms. It is however the case 
that many cloths have cotton filling 
yarn because this allows a lower cost 
of production and aids somewhat in 
obtaining good results wheu the cloth 
is finished. The engraved roller, when 
one is used, and a corresponding rol- 
ler, when one is not used, is heated by 
some method so that the damp cloth 
is dried and pressed at the same time, 
a fact which produces more pro- 
nounced effects and causes them to 
be of a more permanent nature. In 
other words, the pressed effect is Iron- 
ed into the cloth, forcing the threads 
and picks into the patterns desired and 
making them desirable for many pur- 
poses. It must not be supposed that 
moir<§ effects are the only ones which 
can be produced by a pressing proc- 
ess because there is a wide variety 
of styles possible. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



71 



Many kinds of cotton lining fabrics 
have milled surfaces, a method which 
increases their lustre and desirability 
and prevents them from getting soil- 
ed so quickly. Then there are cloths 
produced which contain pressed ef- 
fects, of slash lines, checks, mottled 
effects, cords and similar styles and 
in addition there are the many em- 
bossed cloths which are used for dec- 
orative purposes and which contain 
about as wide a range of styles as the 
woven brocade cloths which are sold 
in quite large quantities. In these ma- 
terials, ribs and other woven cloth 
effects are produced which have no 
direct relation to the picks per inch 
in the fabric, or the fabric weave, but 
which are so carefully done that they 
often deceive the most careful ob- 
servers and are not noted until the 
cloth is pulled to pieces in order to 
obtain the construction used. 

In a general way the cloths on 
which there is to be placed a pressed 
figure are woven from raw materials, 
that is, from grey cotton or from raw 
silk and not from dyed or bleached 
yarns. Naturally such cloths are 
woven just the same as an or- 
dinary material and when taken 
from the loom are bleached and 
dyed by the usual methods. Be- 
cause of the method of production 
the colors are most always solid ones 
and possibly the majority of colors 
used are dark, black and dark blues 
being used extensively, although there 
are instances where printed patterns 
and light shades are used. It is how- 
ever true that when the embossing or 
pressing is to take place the cloth 
contains somewhat more starch than 
is noted on many fabrics inasmuch 
as this tends to make the pattern or 
pressed effects of a more permanent 
uauue. 

When a satin face silk and cotton 
material is to be treated to an emboss- 
ing process the cloth is given a 

BACK STARCHING PROCESS 

which allows the back of the cloth to 
be stiffened up in a satisfactory man- 
ner but keeps the face of the cloth 
free from starch and joes not detract 
from the face lustre. This is a desir- 
able policy inasmuch as the face is 
silk yarn and any amount of starch 



would cause the finish to be less 
lustrous. Of course, the pressing proc- 
ess is practically the last one before 
the cloth is folded and shipped. 
Sometimes there is a decided loss in 
yardage in the finishing proqess 
because the embossing of the cloth 
creates ribs or undulations thereby 
taking up a certain amount of the fab- 
ric and increasing the cost per yard 
of the finished material. Care must 
be used by buyers when fabrics which 
shrink in finishing are being handled, 
especially when they are being made 
to sell at a certain price. A compara- 
tively small variation in the yardage 
received will seriously affect the prof- 
its which are obtained and in some 
instances is likely to cause losses. 

PRICES AND PROFITS. 

There is a very interesting situa- 
tion noted when the selling prices 
of silks or fabrics woven in silk mills 
are compared with some of the high- 
class fabrics which are now being pro- 
duced in cotton mills. Without doubt 
there are a majority of silk fabrics 
purchased by consumers at a smaller 
ratio of advance on the mill selling 
price than is noted on many styles 
of cotton fabrics. There are very 
many cotton cloths costing in a 
finished state not over 12 cents per 
yard which retail at approximately 
35 cents per yard and often styles are 
shown where the advance is much 
greater than this amount. 

There are very many silk cloths 
costing about 60 cents per yard 
to produce which are sold at retail 
for $1.25 per yard or less. Thus it 
will be seen that even though silks 
are more of a luxury than cottons 
they reach the consumer in very many 
instances at much more reasonable 
advances on the cost of production. 
This should never be noted in the 
distribution of "merchandise because 
silks are made and sold in much 
smaller quantities than are cottons 
and not only this, but the retailer usu- 
ally adds a greater amount of profit 
to silk cloths than he does to cotton 
ones. Possibly the reason why many 
silk cloths show a smaller rate of in- 
crease is because they go through a 
fewer number of hands, making small- 
er profits necessary. 



72 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



One of the great needs in the sale 
of cotton goods is that they be sold in 
a more direct manner, especially the 
fabrics which are not considered as 
staples. The converting jobber has 
made a start in this direction and 
there will be a gradual increasing sale 
of such cloth in this method. At pres- 
ent the rate of profits of this party is 
sometimes rather large, but as more 
cloth is sold in this manner 

COMPETITION WILL INCREASE 
and profits be smaller, and, in addi- 
tion, there will oe many economies 
effected in selling goods in tnis 
manner. It can be said that 

there are many lines of fancy 



used, though the regular market price 
would not increase the total cloth cost 
to any great extent. Possibly this cloth 
would Le sold at 67% cents or less 
by a silk mill, and inasmuch as there 
is a very large demand at present the 
retailer is receiving a very large prof- 
it, probably as high as 100 per cent. 
In any case, including the retailer's 
high profit, the price to the consumer 
is only about three times the mill sell- 
ing price and ordinarily would be 
much less than this amount, a con- 
dition not often noted when a cotton 
fabric is selling as well as these silk 
and cotton moire materials. 

There are a number of features 




Sample of the Moire Fabric Analyzed. 



cotton goods which are made 
to-day which could be produced in 
smaller quantities from bleached and 
dyed yarns and sold direct to retailers 
at prices which would allow a very 
satisfactory rate of profit. There 
should be a greater amount of cloth 
produced in this manner instead of 
as it is at present, with various small 
plants attempting to produce staples 
or near staples such as are woven in 
the larger mills. 

Take trie iauric for which the cost 
Is given for an illustration. We have 
given the actual cotton mill cost for 
30-3, but if tne ciom were produced 
in a silk mill this yarn could not be 
obtained at the price which we have 



which should be considered when a 
silk cloth or silk mixture cloth is being 
analyzed. One of the important facts 
is that raw silk contains a varying 
amount of gum which may or may 
not be removed when the cloth or 
yarn is finished. In addition, certain 
kinds of dyestuffs are often used 
which are likely to make tne yarn 
or cloth weigh much more than when 
first used. Even if the cloth is not 
weighted through the use of dye- 
stuffs the gum may not be entirely 
removeo, no tnat tne determining of 
the yarn size is sometimes difficult 
even to those familiar with the meth- 
od aim Is usually impossible to those 
not familiar with conditions. In a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



n 



good many cotton and silk mixed per inch a slight difference will mak- 

cloths there is practically no weight- quite a little variation in the costs of 

ing applied when the cloth is finished production. 

and the silk yarn will be lighter than When cotton fabrics have been 

when first used, though various pressed they usually contain quite 

amounts of gum are removed in fin- large amounts of sizing material, 

ishing. and this should be removed before 

Comparatively few sizes of silk are any accurate estimate can be made 

used in large quantities in cotton mills, regarding the original yarn sizes. To 

and for this reason it is usually pos- obtain the weights of the yarns and 

sible to determine rather easily the the weight of the cloth the process 

sizes of silk used. Then a mill often is as follows: (The silk yardage used 

finds it advantageous to use certain is an assumed one, but it covers the 

yarn sizes and for this reason can contraction in twist and offers a cer- 

determine the approximate cost of a tain amount of protection to the cloth 

style of fabric as they will be likely manufacturer.) 

to produce it. Another fact which 9 344 ends + (147 ,5oo yds.) = .0633, warp 

needs careful attention is the take- weight without take-up. 

up on the warp yarn in the weaving ^^take-up ft weaving. ^^ Qf warp 

process. When a COtton warp yarn IS in one yard of woven cloth. 

used, a small variation in the take-up 56 picks X36y 4 - reed width x 36 = ^^ 

used in figuring the cloth weights will 36" 

not affect the cost of the cloth greatly, 2 / 3 * rd _£ % % n ^ ^ L ard 24 f7, c totai weight 

but Where the Warp is Of Silk and of filling in one yard of woven cloth. 

., , , . ,, , .0729 -I- .2417 = .3146, total weight per yd. 

there are a large number of threads i.oooo U-..3146 = 3.17 yds. per lb. (grey). 

PATTERN. 
13/15 2 thread organzine. 9,344, total ends. 
80/3 Am. carded filling, 66 picks. 
64 reed, 36%" width in reed, 36" finished width. 
259 X 56 finished count. 

YARNS. 

I^abor, Twist- 
Cotton, waste, etc. ing. 
30/3 Am. carded filling; 1% " staple, 6 hank dou. rov., 13 Vfec. 6V4c. 3&c. = 23 %c. 

13/15 2 thread organzine on beams ready to use (per lb.) = $5.60 

COST. 

9,344 ends 13/15 2 thread organzine + 13% take-up = .0729 @ $5.60 = $ .4082 

56 picks 30/3 Am. carded filling = .2417 @ 23%c = .0562 

Weaving .0353 

Expenses .0283 

$ .5280 

Dyeing, finishing, etc. (about; .0500 

Selling price (about) .6750 

Retail selling price 2.0000 

Yards per pound 3.17 (grey). 



SLUB YARN NOVELTY 

The past few years there has been 
a great deal of discussion regarding 
the large increase in the number of 
special cotton fabrics made and 
whether or not it is well to go into 
this kind of business in any extensive 
manner. Years ago, or when the do 
mestic industry was comparatively 
small, the majority of mills were able 
to produce cloths, the best of which 
would be considered staples on to 
day's basis of quality. Gradually the 



tastes of consumers advanced, and 
their purchasing power became larger, 
so that mills were able to improve the 
quality of their fabrics and the prices 
at which they sold. Then, many new 
mills were built which were able to 
make fine yarns and fancy cloths, but 
the size of practically all of these 
mills was so large that for economic 
reasons what might be called staple 
fancy cloths had to be produced, at 
least they are so considered when 
compared with many of the novelties, 
recently offered. 



74 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Of course, there is a certain por- 
tion of high-class novelties made in 
large domestic mills, but they are not 
the fabrics which we are considering, 
for these are sold in small quantities, 
and are usually produced by specialty 
manufacturers. The large production 
of cloths which would have been con- 
sidered extreme novelties only a short 
time ago have educated a certain num- 
ber of consumers into demanding ad- 
vances on previous novelties. The 
whole development has been one of 
progress, and there is no reason to 
believe that the recent interest is any- 
thing but logical and that it will con 
tinue to grow. 

At certain periods, progress seems 
to be greater than at other times, due 
to various improvements either in 
manufacturing methods or else in the 
dyestuffs and methods of finishing, but 
it can be said that the results which 
are possible from combinations of dif- 
ferent materials, yarn sizes, colors, 
weaves and finishes are just begin- 
ning to be understood in anything like 
a scientific manner, and that the high- 
er range of prices makes it possible 
to use them in combination, whereas 
a short time ago their use was largely 
impracticable or not understood in 
most cases. About fifteen years ago 
some of the silk and cotton combina- 
tions often sold for from 75 cents to 
$1 a yard, while to-day they can be 
purchased at about 30 cents a yard in 
the same constructions and with a 
much better finish. These fabrics 
probably had much to do with educat- 
ing consumers into higher prices for 
cotton goods, because previously it 
was the custom to purchase woolen 
material when the price was much 
over 50 cents a yard. Now it is not 
at all unusual to see all-cotton cloths 
in the stocks of exclusive retailers 
on which the price is from $3 to $5 
a yard, and in some cases much 
higher 

FIELD FOR LARGE RETAILERS. 

Many of such cloths are without 
doubt out of the reach of the small 
retailer, because he finds it impos- 
sible to keep up to the latest fashions, 
and losses are likely even though the 
percentage of profit added is quite 



large. Consumers are not inclined to 
purchase high-priced novelties at a 
small establishment, so that even 
though they were carried the demand 
would probably be very small. Then 
the purchase of any quantity of high 
priced cloth ties up quite a little cap- 
ital, and curtails the amount of or- 
dinary stock which can be carried, 
this condition being liable to make an 
unsatisfactory merchandise situation. 

Large retailers can handle quite a 
few such novelties, and the possibili- 
ties of loss are much less, because the 
purchase of one undesirable style af- 
fects the average profits but slightly, 
and, moreover, the probabilities of un- 
desirable styles being purchased is 
much less in the case of a large re- 
tailer, because of a greater familiarity 
with selling conditions and styles. 
Profits on such fabrics are large in 
some cases, but they were also 
large in the past upon some of the 
cloths which are considered staples 
to-day. On ordinary cloths, the price 
or value is partly determined by the 
wearing qualities, but with many of 
these newer lines the fabric style has 
much more influence on price, in fact 
many of such materials -have compar- 
atively little wearing value. This con- 
dition permits the making of special 
fabrics in a comparatively small quan- 
tity, and if desirable styles are creat- 
ed the price which can be obtained is 
practically always sufficient to allow 
a good profit. 

Such manufacturing cannot be suc- 
cessfully done by any excepting men 
of ability, who understand thoroughly 
the various features of cloth making 
and finishing, and who also can ad- 
just style to fabrics in an attractive 
and different manner. The problem 
does not call for the economical and 
systematic management necessary in 
large plants, mainly because changes 
are so frequent in styles and fabrics 
that each production is a problem in 
itself. The making of such novelties 
is necessarily a small business, be- 
cause exclusiveness is sacrificed when 
quantities are made, and perhaps this 
feature is demanded as much as any 
other in the purchase of such cloths. 
Possibly the greatest opportunity to- 
day to build up a business and obtain 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



75 



an exceptional profit is in producing 
special fabrics in small quantities. 
These could be sold direct to the re- 
tailer, thereby making prices to the 
consumer more reasonable than at 
first would be considered possible. 

The cloth which we have illustrat- 
ed offers a good idea of the methods 
which are sometimes used in obtain- 
ing a certain result. This fabric was 
without doubt produced in a compara- 
tively small quantity, and sells at 
what would be considered a high 
price, namely $2 a yard, but when the 
selling price is compared with the 
cost of making the ratio of advance is 



or washed, produces the irregular 
ground effect which is so desirable at 
present. 

The warp yarn is not hard twisted, 
because a yarn is strongest when con- 
taining practically the ordinary warp 
twist, namely 4.50 to 4.75 times the 
square root of the yarn size in turns 
per inch, and, naturally, a strong warp 
yarn aids in the weaving operation. 
Fine single filling of a hard twist na- 
ture when dyed is also hard to han- 
dle, so this yarn was made of two-pb 
instead of single, so as to aid in the 
cloth making. A very much heavier 
filling probably would not have been 



-< € 



•a. 4 P «W 






* ^*h. 






yKJr* 



art 



'1$ i "1 *c~23Mf 



The Cottoji Novelty Analyzed 




probably no greater, if it is as great, 
as some of the more ordinary fine and 
fancy materials, if the excessive ad 
vances by the retailers be ignored. In 
the first place, the yarns used are of 
quite a little interest, inasmuch as 
they represent three different types of 
material. 

The ordinary warp is white, and 
the making of this yarn is no differ- 
ent than for ordinary work. The size 
of the yarn is 60s-l. The filling yarn is 
two-ply of a finer size, namely, 90s-2, 
and, in addition to this fact, the 
yarn is twisted harder than it is for 
ordinary work. This extra twist 
makes the yarn have a crepey char- 
acter, and when the cloth is finished 



so desirable, and this explains why 
the finer yarn was made two-ply, so 
that it would not differ very much 
from the size of the warp yarn used. 

The third yarn and the one of great- 
est interest is the novelty yarn which 
is identical for warp and filling. This 
is made of three single threads and 
the bunch of soft cotton which forms 
the heavy portion of the yarn. There 
are two twisting processes employed. 
The method of making is somewhat 
as follows, considering that the sin- 
gle yarns, which are 15s-l, have al- 
ready been completed. 

A spinning frame or a similar ma- 
chine, which has more than one set 
of rolls, is used in twisting, and an 



76 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



arrangement Is made whereby one set 
of rolls can be run intermittently. 
Two threads are placed in the front 
rolls, being separated, but rot passing 
between the rolls which operate in 
termittently. Between the rolls which 
operate irregularly is placed a soft 
roving yarn, and as these rolls move 
forward and stop short, pieces of rov- 
ing are fed out between the two 
threads which, when the twist is in- 
serted by the spindles in front of the 
rolls, twist together, and in twisting 
bind in the bunch of loose cotton. 

The loose cotton is not held very 
firmly, so the twisted yarn is then 
taken and again twisted, but in the 
opposite direction, this last twisting 
process binding the cotton so that it 
can be used satisfactorily. These 
yarns are used extensively in various 
kinds of napped goods where the 
bunches are of dyed cotton, thus pro- 
ducing quite attractive patterns. With- 
out doubt, the yarn used in this cloth 
was made on an ordinary spinning 
frame, which was readjusted because 
the spacings of the bunches are al- 
most exactly the distances which 
would be noted from the circum- 
ference of the ordinary spinning 
frame rolls. 

Prices for special yarns have been 
exceptionally high for some time., in- 
asmuch as few are accustomed to 
making them or have machinery ca- 
pable of it, and the demand has been 
quite large. The total yarn size when 
completed is practically 2-\, the 
three ends of 15s-l producing a yarn 
equal to 5-1, and the loose cotton, 
which is fed in at the first twisting 
process, sui plies the additional weight 
to make the above named size. 

Not only are special yarns used in 
producing this fabric but it is also 
true that a good deal of ingenuity 
has been used in developing the 
weave and construction. In the firsv 
place, the crepe effect is produced by 
the hard twist filling, as previously 
noted. This crepe effect is not so 
great as if a larger number of turns 
per inch were inserted in the yarn, 
neither is it so great as would be 
noted if the heavy novelty yarn did 
not tend to hold out the fabric rather 
than to allow It to shrink in the 



width. The dyed yarn has been used 
so as to make the cotton bunches in 
the novelty yarn show up more proml 
nently. A hard twist white filling 
would have made the result less de- 
sirable in most cases, for it would not 
have made the effect produced by the 
novelty yarn so prominent. The 
weave is perhaps of as great interest 
as the yarns which have been used. 

It will be noted that the novelty 
yarn appears largely on the face of 
the cloth. This is of advantage for a 
number of reasons. First, it shows 
up the effect better, second, it does 
not bind down the novelty yarn, par- 
tially destroying the effect, and, third, 
it makes the weaving more practical, 
for there is less rubbing in the weav- 
ing process. We are illustrating the 
weave which has been used. The 
marks at the top and side designate 
the threads of novelty yarn, and we 
are giving a little more than one re 
peat of the design, so that the opera- 
tion of the threads can be clearly 
understood. 

To make the effect it will be neces- 
sary to use eight harnesses, though 
possibly a greater number would be 
used because of practical reasons. 
Note that the novelty warp threads are 
lifted a large portion of the time, while 
the novelty filling is on the surface ot 
the cloth in a like manner. To hold 
these novelty yarns in their correct 
places the fine warp is raised next to 
the novelty thread when it is lowered, 
and the relatively same method is 
adopted in regard to the filling. Note 
that all the novelty yarn weaves exact- 
ly the same, except that on succeed- 
ing threads or picks the weave is 
eight picks or threads farther advan- 
ced. One of the most troublesome 
features in the use of novelty yarns is 
the fact that what are called patterns 
are produced. They are present in the 
cloth considered, although the cloth 
construction is very advantageous for 
their partial elimination. The separa- 
tion of the novelty picks and threads 
by a ground cloth is likely to break 
up the undersirable effects to a cer- 
tain extent. 

Because of the cloth construction 
a box loom is usually necessary for the 
weaving, but in this cloth a pick and. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



77 



pick box loom must be used or one 
which can insert a single pick of a 
yarn size or color. When such a loom 
is being used, it is a very good plan to 
use two shuttles containing novelty 
yarn, inserting first one pick from one 
shuttle and then a second pick from 
another shuttle, for this breaks up the 
regularity of the nubs or bunches. 
A little care in planning the 
cloth width so that it does not 
correspond to the repeat of the bun- 
ches will help in obviating the trouble. 

COST OF MAKING. 
We have given an approximate cost 
of producing such a fabric as that con- 



■I 



■■*■»■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 

::::: v.v j 

■■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 



¥1 




The Weave. 

sidered, and it would probably be im- 
possible for the concerns which manu- 
facture this kind of cloth to produce 
at anywhere near the price which is 
given. In the first place we have con- 
sidered that the mill making the cloth 
also produced the yarn used, a con- 
dition which is entirely unlikely. If 
yarns were purchased it is very likel> 
that the special ones might cost nearly 
twice as much as the figures we have 
given, for there would be the extra 
profits resulting from the large de- 
mand, and, in addition, the various 
shipping and other expenses which 
are noted on yarns purchased, 
but that are not noted when 
the yarns are produced in the plant 
weaving the cloth, 



The figures given are for a reason- 
able production, but the cost might 
be increased somewhat, due to very 
small orders. Then the expenses of 
experimental work can never be es- 
timated very accurately for any one 
cloth, and much of this work might 
be necessary before the correct re- 
sults were obtained. With a concern 
purchasing its yarn it is very likely 
that the cost per yard would be some- 
where about 45 to 50 cents. Profits 
must be considerably higher per 
loom on such work than on ordinary 
fabrics, because the risk is greater, 
and because the small number of 
looms operated makes it necessary if 
a reasonable return is to be obtained. 
The demand for any style has much 
to do with the profit which 
is possible, and the variation 
will be wider than on ordi- 
nary cloths, because competition is 
not so keen. Possibly, a profit of ten 
cents a yard would not be exceptional 
for a cloth such as that considered. 

AN IMPORTED FABRIC. 

As this fabric is an imported one 
there are duties to be added to the 
foreign selling price, and this explains 
partly the high price. Assuming that 
the cloth was sold at 55 cents a yard, 
the retail price is not exceptionally 
high, as it is only about four times 
the mill selling price, and the higher 
cost over ordinary cloths is due to the 
retailer's added ratio of profit. There 
is a large opportunity for the develop- 
ment of special styles in the domes- 
tic market, inasmuch as prices to-day 
are quite high and are likely to con- 
tinue so. There is no gTeat reason 
to believe that the domestic buyers 
will purchase foreign goods if the 
domestic product is just as desirable 
and contains up-to-date and exclusive 
styles. Whether the retailer sells 
such novelty cloths as imported or 
not is of comparatively little impor- 
tance to the manufacturer, because 11 
he can obtain the bulk of such busi- 
ness the imported idea will be grad- 
ually eliminated, in fact it is fast be- 
ing outgrown to-day. 

Possibly, one of the greatest prob- 
lems in making yarns of a novelty 
character is in obtaining the correct 



78 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



cost of production. The various ele- After the correct yarn sizes are ob- 

ments of cost should be considered tained, the weight of the cloth is no 

carefully, such as the take-ups on the more difficult to obtain than for or- 

various yarns in the twisting process dinary materials, although the width 

and their cost, and the losses which of the cloth in the reed must be care . 

SSt hP^'r ^.hvfr^ 10 ^ SE! fu "y ascertained, because there is 

must be used in such yarns as that .. , , : , . ., . ,. 

produced to see that correct per- ?. mte a large shrinkage in this direc- 

centages of the yarn size produced are tlon - Probably there are very few 

obtained. The cost of experimenta- fabrics selling to-day which illustrate 

tion should also be considered careful- any better some of the extreme ideas 

Iy, for this one feature sometimes will which are being successfully adapted 

make a very much higher cost than to high-class production on the cloth 

would otherwise be thought possible. we have presented. 

PATTERN WARP 
3 3 

60/1 Am. combed bleached — 4 3 — = 1,985 

24 24 

2% novelty 1 = 263 

263X 2,248 total ends. 

PATTERN FILLING. 
90/2 Am. combed dyed 7 
214 novelty 1 

48 picks per inch. 

YARN COST. 

60/1 bleached 52c. per lb. 

90/2 dyed, extra twist 91c. per lb. 

214 novelty (3 ends 15/1 and roving; 2 twisting operations) 24c. per lb. 

CLOTH COST. 

1,985 ends 60/1 bleached + 8% take-up = .0427 @ 52c = $ .0222 

263 ends 2& novelty + 2% take-up =-• .1419 @ 24c = .0340 

42 picks 90/2 dyed = .0600 @ 91c = .0546 

6 picks 2% novelty = .1714 @ 24c = .0412 

Weaving .0705 

Expenses . 01; 1 -4 

$ .2-139 
Finishing, etc .0250 

Mill cost under most favorable circumstances $ .2689 

Yards per pound, 2.40 finished. 



MERCERIZED CORD 

A new fabric which is now being 
offered for the first time in the finish- 
ed state by retailers is the mercerized 
corded fabric, of which we are giving 
an analysis, and of which an illustra- 
tion is presented. For a number of 
years, corded fabrics have been quite 
large sellers, and the lines have in- 
cluded Russian cords and Bedford 
cords in various combinations and 
colors, and on both light and heavy 
ground fabrics. The yarns used in 
making these cloths have been of 
widely varying sizes and qualities, al- 
though, as a general thing, the yarns 
used in Bedford cords have been of 
rather fine sizes, and the cloth count 
has been comparatively high, at least 



when compared with most lines of cot- 
ton goods. Russian cords being an 
addition to a fabric, rather than a 
component part of it, have been ap- 
plied to all kinds of materials, al- 
though because of the additional cost, 
the idea has been used more exten- 
sively on high quality merchandise 
which sells at a rather high price. 
The extensive sale of these two lines 
has made consumers familiar with 
such styles, but competition has be- 
come more keen than it was, and for 
this reason, the profit obtainable on 
the above two fabrics is smaller than 
it was. 

As usually happens with fancy 
cloths or new styles, a change has to 
be made through the use of addition- 
al cloth features, or by lower prices 
so as to make the cloth desirable for 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



79 



a longer time, although, naturally, oth- 
er fabrics will be developed, and take 
the place cf some former styles. Voiles 
were sold in large quantities in the 
plain state when they were first de- 
veloped, and gradually novelty fea- 
tures had to be added, such as crowd- 
ed stripes, checks and silk stripes 
with jacquard figures, in order to keep 
up the distribution. The same thing 
has happened on poplins, and is now 
taking place on fabrics composed of 
novelty yarns, and the same condition 
will be noted on fancy fabrics which 
are in demand in the future. Of course, 
all kinds of voiles are still being sold, 
and so are poplins and other cloths 
which formerly sold well, but this is 
mainly because they are desirable to 
many consumers, although the above 
statements apply generally to the 
whole development in the sale of fancy 
fabrics. 

The corded fabric now being offered 
has been made so as to take the place 
of certain of the Russian and Bedford 
cords, inasmuch as the demand for 
these has been declining. The reason 
why it can be sold is partly because 
it can be made at a comparatively 
low price, and partly because the cloth 
contains some new ideas. In a gen- 
eral way, corded fabrics are used for 
all the purposes for which medium- 
weight cotton cloth is desirable, al- 
though, possibly, waistings, shirtings 
and dress materials form the largest 
portions of the sale. The cloth we have 
analyzed is rather stiff for some uses, 
mainly because there are so many 
cords in the material, but other pat- 
terns contain fewer cords, and would 
be possibly considered more desirable 
for ordinary use by many consumers. 

Inasmuch as the cloth is mercerized 
in the finishing process, the planning 
of the construction involves much the 
same principles as noted when mak- 
ing an ordinary mercerized fabric, 
that is, a soft twist filling yarn, and 
a greater number of picks than threads 
so us to produce a more lustrous ef- 
fect when mercerized. This method of 
making cloth is usually designated as 
a soisette construction. When the 
warp is to be treated, the same con- 
ditions apply, only it is impossible to 
weave a soft twist single warp yarn, 
and to obtain satisfactory results, the 



warp is made of fine yarn, and the 
single yarns twisted into a two-ply 
form with a comparatively few turns 
per inch. One of the constructions 
which is largely used when the filling 
is to be mercerized is a count of 64 x 
72, and with 50-1 warp, and 30-1 soft 
twist filling, while when the warp is 
to be mercerized the most common con- 
struction used is 100 x 48, with 60-2 
soft twist warp and 25-1 filling. The 
yarns will vary slightly in different 
mills, but the general results are very 
similar. The ground construction 
which has been used in the cloth ana- 
lyzed is 74 x 96, with 50-1 warp and 
30-1 filling. Many fine mercerized fab- 
rics have a count of 72 x 104, with 
70-1 or 80-1 warp and 40-1 
soft twist . filling. Thus, it will 
be noted that the well-known 
idea of fabric construction has 
been followed, but that a slightly low- 
er filling count has been used, togeth- 
er with yarns about the same as in 
the lower count mercerized fabric pre- 
viously mentioned. 

THE COARSER SIZES. 

The coarser sizes of yarns used 
more than offset the slightly lower fill- 
ing count, so that a rather firm fabric 
results, and the construction would 
not be used were the fabric to be 
made entirely of pla in weave. The rea- 
son why these coarse yarns have been 
used is to make a satisfactory fabric 
when the large number of cords have 
been introduced. These are so large 
that with the ordinary fine yarn con- 
structiuns they would undoubtedly 
slip in the material, and produce an 
undesirable result. Another feature 
which is worthy of note is in regard 
to the weave, which has been applied 
to the cords. On most fabrics, when an 
ordinary cord is used, the cord will 
weave just the same as the threads in 
a plain cloth, namely, be raised for 
one pick, and depressed for the follow- 
ing one, while in this cloth, the cord 
is raised for one pick, and depressed 
for the following two picks. This 
causes the filling to float over the 
cords two-thirds of the time, and par- 
tially covers them up, acting in a sim- 
ilar manner to the crossing thread in 
a leno weave in a fabric containing 
the Russian cord. The method of 



80 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



weaving makes a rather soft cord, 
which will not wear out the picks of 
filling so rapidly when it is washed 
and ironed, as if it had been bound in 
more firmly, but the cord does not 
stand out so sharply as when produced 
by the leno weave. 

This fabric in a large majority of 
instances should be classed among 
fancy materials, and as a fancy mill 
product. There are various reasons 
why this should be so, and probably 
the first is that the yarns all vary so 
much in size and character. Few cloth 
mills, excepting those making fancy 
materials, produce any soft twist fill- 
ing. Second, some of the yarns are 



probable that changes to a more fancy 
cloth would soon take place, eliminat- 
ing the demand and causing a mill to 
be short of orders. This is one great 
reason whv staple cloth makes are so 
seldom desirous of changing from their 
regular fabrics even if the possibilities 
of profit appear somewhat greater when 
the demand is at its best. There are 
in addition the mechanical and labor 
troubles which often deter certain 
manufacturers from making lines of 
fabrics which are different from those 
which they regularly produce. Such 
troubles include such items as in- 
correct gears for frames and unbalanc- 
ed mill organization with too few or 




Mercerized Cord. 



made of combed stock. There are mills 
which make combed yarn fabrics with 
what might be called plain weaves, but 
most of them use no ply yarn at all 
in any of their constructions and in 
few instances do they produce very 
heavy cloths. Third, because of the 
weave which has been used. This is a 
comparatively simple one, but it would 
not be liable to be woven on a cam 
loom or on other looms making simple 
effects, but rather in a fancy cloth 
mill where dobby looms are available. 
Fourth, such a construction would not 
be desirable for some mills, mainly be- 
cause the demand for the cloth would 
not last. Even if a mill might be able 
to produce such a fabric, it is entirely 



too many frames of certain kinds, 
reeds which are not suitable for the 
cloth count which is to be made or if 
new ones are purchased they are likely 
to spoil through subsequent standing 
without being used. Other features al- 
so might be added to those enumer 
ated. Regarding the labor difficul- 
ties it can be said that sometimes 
there are too few or too many employ- 
es, if changes in product are to be 
made, and what is more of importance 
it usually happens that a change 
means that more complicated con- 
structions or weaves are to be used, 
and inasmuch as the help is unused to 
changes, time will be lost and percent- 
ages of production decline over nor- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



81 



mal, and in addition the number of 
seconds are likely to increase, thus 
making the actual profits less than 
appearances would indicate if a cloth 
were to be continually woven. These 
fabrics are practically never produced 
on automatic looms, because very few 
fancy mills contain any such equip- 
ment and also because the quality of 
the cloth has to be somewhat better 
than is produced by such methods. 

It is very probable that the heavy 
cord is placed on more than a single 
harness because of the weight of yarn 
which has to be lifted, although so far 
as the weave is concerned a single 
harness would be sufficient. When the 
warp is drawn in and reeded it is 
necessary to place the cord in two sep- 
arate heddles and dents so as to make 
them weave satisfactorily, and this is 
also another reason why the cord 
would be placed on two harnesses 
which weave the same. 

Whenever a new idea is developed, 
either in connection with a fabric's 
construction, finish or both, it is very 
likely that a good profit is obtained 
therefor. Usually there will be a 
greater or less amount of competition 
afterward and these first high profits 
will be reduced so that it might be 
said that on some few fabrics man- 
ufacturers dictate the selling prices. 
Most grey fabrics have a good deal of 
competition regarding prices, and this 
keeps excessive profits at compara- 
tively low levels. For all fabrics ex- 
cepting those which are especially new, 
a manufacturer should have a com- 
paratively accurate idea regarding the 
profits which each cloth should carry. 
These profits should be determined 
somewhat by the investment in the 
mill organization, although, of course, 
manufacturing ability has much to do 
with the success of one mill and the 
failure of another, and a good deal 
depends upon the demand. A good 
many manufacturers have a general 
idea regarding the total profits they 
believe they should obtain, but often 
they are not especially particular in 
the methods they adopt in setting 
prices so that their various prices will 
all bear the same proportion of the 
total profit. 

Some figure out in a comparatively 
accurate manner the net cost of their 



goods, adding to this cost an arbitrary 
amount as the profit. This arbitrary 
amount is obtained by dividing 
the total estimated profit by the 
total yardage produced. For a 
mill which makes only one kind 
of cloth, such a method is en- 
tirely satisfactory, but for a mill 
which produces quite a number of 
constructions this method is incorrect, 
and the various cloths are likely to be 
quoted at wrong prices. This allows 
other sellers to obtain business which 
the mill producing the cloth should 
have obtained and .makes a low price 
with small profits or forces the market 
on other fabrics. 

Of course, it might be said that com- 
petitors regulate a mill's prices and 
this is true on certain lines to an ex- 
tent, which is greater on grey goods 
than it is on dyed yarn fabrics, but 
nevertheless many goods are sold on 
prices which are entirely designated 
by the sellers. The profits should be 
based on the relative production 
of the producing unit, viz., the looms. 
If one cloth averages to produce at 
the rate of 100 yards per week, while 
another produces at the rate of 200 
yards per week, it is incorrect to ex- 
pect that each cloth must return the 
same profit per yard to the manufac- 
turer. We have used the weekly basis 
of production, inasmuch as most mill 
reports are submitted in such form. 
The production of any cloth is based 
on the speed of the loom, the picks 
per inch in the cloth, and the actual 
percentage which is obtained when 
compared with the theoretical one. 
Such results are available only 
after careful investigation, and 
the keeping of accurate records. 
A loom might actually pro- 
duce when the warp is in the frame 
at the rate of 85 per cent, but due to 
changing or waiting for warps or oth- 
er features, the production rate might 
fall to 80 per cent, or less, over the 
space of a year's time. To base the 
production and profits on a high rate 
would be to receive a smaller profit 
than expected and to name a price 
too low on the cloth. For example, 
suppose a mill cost $1,000,000. 
and contains 1,200 looms. It is 
desired to obtain a rate of 12 per cent 
net profit. This is $120,000 per year, 



82 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



or approximately $2,300 per week. 
When this amount is placed on a loom 
or production basis, the net profit 
which must be obtained per loom per 
week is approximately $1.92. A cer- 
tain style of cloth is being made, 
and by careful records, it is 
found that the cloth will be pro- 
duced at the rate of 132 yards 
per week average. With the two 
items we have obtained, namely, $1.92 
profit per loom per week, and 132 
yards average production per week, 
the amount each yard of cloth should 
carry as profit is easily ascertained. 
$1.92 divided by 132 yards equals 1.45 
cents per yard profit. The same meth- 
od can be adopted with the various 
styles which are running, and if a 
new cloth is to be made on which a 
price has to be named, careful com- 
parison should be mace with previous 
styles, so that no radically incorrect 
estimates are made regarding the 
amount of cloth which will be pro- 
duced. If the above method was used 
in connection with a correct cloth cost, 
it is certain that it would eliminate 
some of the fabrics which are now 
sold at unreasonably high or low quo- 
tations in not alone cotton cloths, but 
also in other materials, and give a 
better idea to manufacturers as to 
what their profit was likely to be. 

This fabric has been made with a 
certain purpose in view, that is, of 
being mercerized before it has to be 
sold. Some cloths are mercerized af- 
ter they are bleached, but in tlie ma- 
jority of cases, it is probable that 
they are mercerized before the bleach- 
ing takes place. The fabric is also 
piece dyed in various colors, these de- 
pending upon the tastes of the buyers 
and the styles of the season. A few 
of the features which aid in the mer- 
cerization process may be of interest. 

A comparatively few years ago, it 
was considered that mercerization did 
not affect the short cotton fibres as 
much as it did the longer ones. This 
was due more to mechanical difficul- 
ties than to actual theory. The lustre 
on cotton fibres when mercerized is 
obtained because the fibres become 
more or less like small glass rods and 
reflect the light, and inasmuch as long 
cotton fibres when used in yarn per- 
mitted a lower standard of twist with 



straighter fibres, it appeared as if the 
longer fibres gave better results than 
the shorter ones. When soft twist fill- 
ing is being used, it is customary to 
comb the cotton so as to produce a 
better yarn, and this allows a lower 
standard of twist, with less twisting of 
the fibres and a more lustrous result 
when the fabric is mercerized. 

THE PROCESS IMPROVED. 
The process has been improved a 
great deal through extensive use, and 
although combed yarn produced from 
long staple cotton still shows the best 
results, the process is being applied 
very extensively to many fabrics made 
of carded yarns. Reduction in prices 
has made this possible, inasmuch as 
it permits the obtaining of a higher 
price for the cloth. The price of mer- 
cerizing and dyeing a fabric such as 
that considered will vary somewhat 
with different concerns, but for ordi- 
nary fabrics, the price is about one 
and one-half cents per yard. The cloth 
is much heavier than the ground con- 
struction and the yarns used would 
indicate, because the cords add quite a 
little weight to the cloth. There is 
quite a little take-up on the fine warp 
yarn, due to the large number of picks 
of filling, but on the cords there is com- 
paratively little take-up, the amount 
eiven being partly the loss which is 
due to the various processes. The 
heavy cords affect the stretch of the 
cloth to a certain extent, and there 
will not be such a large gain in fin- 
ishing as would be noted were the 
cloth made entirely plain and with 
no cords. The method of finding the 
various weights of the yarns used, and 
the total weight of the cloth is as fol- 
lows: 

1,452 ends -r- (50/1 X 480) = .0346, weight 

of fine warp without take-up. 
11% take-up in weaving. 
.0346 -T- .89 = .0389, total weight of fine 

warp per vard of woven cloth. 
<S46 ends -H (20/2 X 840) = .1007, weight of 

ply warp without take-up. 
iv r take-up in weaving. 
.1007 h- .98 = .1028. total weight 

warp per vard of woven cloth. 
36 picks X 29%" reed width X 36" 



36" 

vds. of filling per yard of cloth. 
2,816 -+- (30/1 X 840) = .1117, total 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
.0389 -(- .1028 4- .1117 = .2534, total 

ppr vard. 
1.0000 -h .2534 = 3.95 yards per 

(grey). 



of ply 

2.S16 



weight 
weight 
pound 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



83 



MERCERIZED CORD. 
PATTERN. 
2 2 

50/1 Am. combed warp — 6 4 2 — = 1,452 

10 10 

20/2 Am. carded warp 6 = 846 

141 X 2,298 total ends. 

30/1 Am. combed filling, soft twist, 96 picks. 

34 reed; 2u%" reed width; 27" grey width, 26Vfe"-27" finished width. 
74 X 96 ground count grey; 85 X 94 over all count finished. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 

waste, Twist- 
Cotton, etc. ing. 
50/1 Am. combed warp, 1 5-16" staple; 10 hank dou. rov., 21c. 16V4c. = 37 Vic. 
20/2 Am. carded warp, IVio" staple; 4 hank dou. rov., 13 %c. 4%c. %c. = ls%c. 
30/1 Am. combed filling, 1%" staple; 7 hank dou. rov., 15c. 8 Vic. = 23 Vic. 

COST. 

1,452 ends 50/1 Am. combed warp + 11% take-up = .0389 @ 37 Vic = $ .0146 

846 ends 20/2 Am. carded warp + 2% take-up = .1028 @ 18%c = .0193 

96 picks 30/1 Am. combed filling, solt twist = .1117 (q> 23 Vic = .0263 

Weaving .014 1 

Expenses .0161 

$ .0904 
Selling .0018 

Net mill cost (grey) % .0922 

Selling price to converter or mill selling price (grey) .1050 

Bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, etc .0151' 

Cost to converter (not including expenses) .1200 

Cost to jobber .1375 

Cost to retailer .1750 

Cost to consumer .2500 

Vards per pound 3.95 (grey). 

♦-»-* 



NEW SILK ANDCOTTON FABRICS 

Possibly no class of fabrics pro- 
duced in cotton mills has been of 
more interest to buyers than the silk 
and cotton materials which have re- 
cently been selling, and on which 
mills have orders for as long future 
dating as any other kind of fancy 
fabric. That there has been a phe- 
nomenal growth in the sales of such 
cloth is generally well known in the 
trade, but few consider how compara- 
tively recent the growth has been, 
and why such results have occurred. 
It might be well to state that the for- 
eign development has not been near- 
ly so rapid, when such lines are con- 
sidered, as has the domestic, and 
therefore quite a good many silk and 
cotton fabrics are exported to-day, 
although the reason for exportation is 
probably not because of lower costs 
of production, although this has an in- 
fluence on the sale, but rath- 
er due to the fact that foreign 



mills have produced comparatively 
few such goods, and their finish is 
not so desirable as that of the domes- 
tic cloth. 

There is no reason why many do- 
mestic mills cotHd not have produced 
such goods quite a long time ago, be- 
cause the machinery necessary was 
available, although not so extensive as 
to-day, and is no different than that 
used in making ordinary fancy cotton 
cloths, but due to inexperience in 
handling silk yarn and other reasons, 
their production was attempted by 
only a few mills. Probably the big- 
gest reason why few of such cloths 
were produced was because the de- 
mand had not been developed to any 
great extent. Until consumers become 
used to any fabric, it is very likely 
that the sale will be comparatively 
small. At first the quantities made 
were small, and the profits of practical- 
ly all sellers were large, but through 
inexperience in finishing the. re- 
sults were in no way comparable t ."> 
that of the fabric sold at present 



84 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Many of the cloths now selling at 25 
cents to 29 cents per yard were for- 
merly sold at from 75 cents to $1 per 
yard, and the finish, or color, was not 
nearly so desirable as it is to-day, 
these facts indicating the progress 
which has taken place, and showing 
that consumers are obtaining much 
more value than they formerly did. 

Inasmuch as these silk and cotton 
materials offer possibilities in finish- 
ing and weave effects not noted on 
entire cotton cloths, it would natural- 
ly be expected that they would be- 
come a staple article by the present 
time. Up to about three years ago the 
development of the demand indicated 
that they were fast becoming staples, 
for they were sold at reasonable 
prices, and filled a need which neither 
all silk nor all cotton could. Then a 
greater number of converters became 
acquainted with the fabric construc- 
tion, and in order to beat their com- 
petitors, they began to order from the 
manufacturers' fabrics on which the 
construction was not so high as it 
formerly was. If a buyer desired a 
low construction it was of little im- 
portance to the manufacturer, so long 
as a legitimate profit was secured in 
the cloth making, and gradually the 
constructions which had been found 
satisfactory were cut until little real 
worth was left in the materials. This 
could easily be done, because the cloth 
effect is not changed very much 
through the use of a smaller number 
of picks, the difference being noted 
in the fabric wear. 

We are acquainted with instances 
where the buyer purchased three 
widely varying constructions in a silk 
and cotton cloth with the same num- 
ber of warp threads per inch, but 
with a different number of picks of 
silk filling per inch. Upon these dif- 
ferent fabric constructions was placed 
the same designs, as near as was pos- 
sible, and through such methods buy- 
ers were deceived in the quality of the 
goods which they received. It is en- 
tirely probable that the cloth prices 
for the various styles differed some- 
what, but undoubtedly the parties 
who purchased the cloths delivered 
last received far less value than those 
who bought the ones first offered. The 



highest count cloth was delivered first, 
and gradually the cheaper cloths were 
substituted until conditions became 
such that there was general 
dissatisfaction, with a resulting 
radical falling off in the de- 
mand. Naturally, the well-made 
fabrics of certain houses suf- 
fered in the decline along with the 
poor materials, and much of the cloth 
was sold at retail at prices which 
must have represented large losses to 
some of the sellers. 

Such combinations of material 
were, however, of too much value to 
consumers to be long neglected, and 
a comparatively new start was made 
which has now become of large vol- 
ume, but it is well to note that the 
sale has been made on satisfactory 
combinations, and that most of the 
newer lines are decidedly well made. 
Of course, the greater weight of silk 
used results in a greater cost, but it 
gives much better wear and a more 
desirable appearance. These cloths 
are used largely for dresses, but the 
other uses are such that the demand 
is quite large and an extensive pro 
duction is possible at the mill. 

One fact which is of importance, 
and which is going to affect other 
lines, is that many of the new ma 
terials are being produced with a 
width of 36 inches. This method al- 
lows the cloth to be produced at about 
the same mill cost as would be noted 
for a narrower fabric, with the excep- 
tion of the additional material neces- 
sary in making the wider width. Most 
of the looms which are capable of pro- 
ducing such goods can weave cloth at 
least 36 inches wide, and the produc- 
tion of any narrower material is a 
mill waste which should not be per- 
mitted. The reason why the narrow- 
er fabrics were produced was partly 
because the demand in the past had 
been for narrow fabrics and partly be- 
cause it allowed various sellers to ob- 
tain the cloth to sell within certain 
set price limits. 

In a general way there are twG 
kinds of silk used in making the class 
of fabrics we are considering, namely, 
Canton and Tussah. The silk sizes 
will vary somewhat, depending upon 
the fabric which is to be produced, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



85 



but by far the largest quantities are of 
32-38 two-thread Tussah and of 14-16 
two-thread Canton. Most of the silks 
used are two-thread, although 22-26 
Canton is used in place of the 14-16 
two-thread, as it is somewhat finer 
and allows a slightly lower cost of 
production, although the resulting 
cloth is not quite so desirable as when 
the heavier two-thread silk is used. 

Recently, there has been quite a lit- 
tle three-thread silk used both in Can- 
ton and also in Tussah, but the gen- 
eral tendency has been to increase 
the number of picks in the cloth rath- 
er than to change the size of the silk 
used. Few of these silk and cotton 



warp is used in the majority of in 
stances, although quite large quanti- 
ties of cloth have been produced with 
a somewhat finer size of warp. When 
the 60s-l warp is used, the cloth con- 
struction is often about 96 x 100. It 
will be noted that the cloth analyzed 
contains 40s-l warp with a somewhat 
smaller number of picks, but that the 
use of the three-thread material more 
than offsets the small number of 
picks, thus making a much better con- 
struction, so far as service is concern- 
ed In obtaining our cloth weight we 
have used a yardage of 90,000 for the 
silk, although this is not the correct 
theoretical yardage. This has been 




Fancy Silk and Cotton Fabric. 



cloths contain warp coarser than 40s- 
1, and usually, although not always, 
the cotton yarn is produced from 
combed stock. Inasmuch as the Tus- 
sah silk is rather coarse in size, it is 
used with the coarse cotton yarns, 
probably most of such fabrics contain- 
ing 408-1 or thereabouts, while the 
cloth construction is often about 72 x 
68. Oftentimes this construction has 
to be changed because of a fancy 
ground weave in the cloth, and unless 
more threads or picks be used, the 
firmness in the fabric will not be suf- 
ficient to allow satisfactory wear. 

For the fabrics in which Canton 
silfc is used it is probable that a 60s-l 



done so as to allow a certain amount 
of protection to the manufacturer, in- 
asmuch as the silk size is likely to 
vary. Tests should be made when silk 
or any other yarn is being purchased, 
in order to determine accurately the 
sizes, so that there will be no mistake 
when the cloth cost is figured. This is 
especially true when the yarn is high 
in price. 

There are a certain amount of silk 
and cotton materials, such as those 
considered, which are woven with a 
plain weave, and a somewhat larger 
quantity made wherein dobby weaves 
are used, but without doubt, the fab- 
rics which contain jacquard figures 



86 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



are made in larger quantities and are 
of much more interest at present. 
This is more true than it has been in 
the past, for the demand for brocades 
has made large figures desirable, -and 
these cannot be satisfactorily produc- 
ed except on jacquard looms. The 
principle of operation is no different 
than on ordinary plain looms, al- 
though the repeat of the weave is on 
two threads, while when a jacquard 
mechanism is used it may be 400, 600 
or whatever number of threads the 
mechanism is made for. The first 
thing in duplicating a piece of cloth is 
.to obtain the number of threads and 
picks per inch by counting with a 
pick glass or by cutting out a piece 
of cloth with a die and counting the 
threads. In this cloth there are 92 
threads and 70 picks per inch when 
finished. 

Through the stretch of the filling 
it is easy enough to obtain approxi- 
mately the width of the cloth in the 
reed, and from this the 

SIZE OF THE REED 

which was used in producing the 
cloth. Using a few lengths of filling 
pulled out from a piece of the cloth 
we obtain the following: 



5%' 



5%' 



35M." 



This will give the real width as ap- 
proximately 38 inches. Then we have: 



35%" cloth width 
92 threads. 



38" reed width 



This result shows that there are 
86 threads per inch in the reed, and 
with two threads per dent a 43-reed 
will be used. It is assumed that the 
buyer has supplied the cloth sketch 
from which the weave design is to bb 
produced. Possibly, this cloth was 
made on a 400-jacquard machine, 
which has eight hooks in a 
row, and for such a machine the cor- 
rect design or point paper 
would be obtained as follows: 

92 (the finished warp count) : 70 (the fin- 
ished filling count) :: 8 : X. 

This will result in a design pa- 
per being used of eight squares in 
the warp and six in the filling direc- 



tion. If a 400-machine were used for 
this cloth, there would be no cast- 
out, and the small sketch would be 
ruled up into 50 equal ^'visions, each 
division corresponding to one block 
on the design or point paper. This 
cloth sketch is also ruled off horizon- 
tally to correspond with the vertical 
spaces. 

The next step is to transfer the 
cloth sketch to the point paper, keep- 
ing the general features as nearly 
identical as possible. When this has 
been done, the cloth weave is painted 
in on the point paper, introducing dif- 
ferent combinations to produce the 
various effects. Care must be exer- 
cised that no long floats are allowed 
to remain, for often the results are 
spoiled, because attention has not 
been paid to such details. From 
this finished design jacquard cards 
are cut which operate the loom mech- 
anism. Each small square on the de- 
sign is represented by a blank space 
or a punched hole in the card, and 
the 400 needles (50 rows, eight in a 
row) correspond to the spaces on the 
card. Each card represents one pick 
of the design, and the number of cards 
corresponds to the total number of 
picks in the design. In the fabric 
considerd there would be approxi- 
mately 440 picks in the design, and 
the same number of cards on the 
loom. The operation of these cards 
against the needles in the jacquard 
head either raises or depresses the 
harnesses which contain the eyes 
through which the warp yarn is 
drawn, and the action of the different 
cards produces the pattern when the 
filling is inserted. The above is a 
general description of the process 
which is noted when a sample piece 
containing a fancy pattern is to be 
produced. 

When an order is received, the orig - 
nal set of cards is duplicated as many 
times as there are looms to be oper- 
ated. The lacing of the various cards 
is performed by a lacing machine 
which acts in a similar manner to an 
ordinary sewing machine, binding the 
cards at the ends and in the centre. 
It might be imagined that on a silk 
and cotton fabric such as that con- 
sidered there would be a smaller num- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



87 



ber of looms per weaver than on 
somewhat simpler dobby patterns, but 
such is not the case, for in most in- 
stances the same number of looms are 
operated as when dobby patterns are 
being made. Some have considered 
that the percentage of production 
would not be so high when silk filling 
is used, but through experience it has 
been found that the percentage of 
production is somewhat higher than 
for similar cloths which contain cot- 
ton filling. It is, however, true that 
a weaver will not produce so much 
cloth as when dobby patterns are be- 
ing made, but this is because of the 
slower loom speed rather than because 
of the more complicated weave placed 
on the cloth. The cost of producing 
a design such as that used on the 
cloth analyzed is not so great as many 
might believe. 

The general method is to charge a 
certain price per pick when outside 
parties accomplish the work, the cost 
to the mill when done at the plant 
being about half the outside prices. 
The prices per pick will vary up to 
7| cents per pick, but this is for a 
high count and complicated ground 
weaves. A design such as that used 
would cost about $7.50, this small 
sum influencing the cloth cost per 
yard very slightly when the orders 
received are of any size. In the major- 
ity of designs for silk and cotton 
cloths, where the filling is of silk, it 
is customary to produce the effect 
largely by floating the filling, for this 
allows the lustrous yarn to form the 
figure, and makes the results more 
desirable. Plain weave forms the 
groundwork of the fabric in the large 
majority of instances, and is neces- 
sary if a firm cloth be produced with 
the comparatively fine sizes of yarns 
used. 

PROFITS AND FINISHING. 
. Possibly a few items regarding the 
profits secured by the various sellers 
may be of interest. With the produc- 
tion which the loom is likely to make, 
and the profit per yard which we have 
estimated, the profit per loom per 
week would be $2.90, or approximate- 
ly $150 per loom per year. This 
amount should be responsible for at 
least a 15 pe/ cent profit to the 



manufacturer. It must be remembered 
that the manufacturer has quite a lit- 
tle money invested in his plant and 
machinery, usually upwards of $1,000 
per loom, which is of comparatively 
little value if it is not being operated, 
and for this reason he is on a much 
different basis than the succeeding 
sellers. 

The converter obtains a net profit 
of approximately 2% cents per yard, 
and this should return him a profit of 
about 11 per cent, with only a single 
turnover of his goods per year, but 
this profit must be compared with a 
mill profit of 15 per cent, where an 
outlay of from $800 to $1,000 per loom 
is made, with only a converter's out- 
lay on the cloth purchased, which in 
this case is practically 24% cents per 
yard. The jobber is in much the same 
position as the converter, and his prof- 
it is somewhat similar, due to his 
greater turnover. The retailer on this 
cloth, will obtain a gross profit of 
about 50 per cent, and allowing 25 
per cent, which is not far from cor- 
rect on to-day's basis for his various 
expenses, the net profit secured is 
practically 25 per cent, but it must 
be noted that a retailer turns over 
his goods a number of times a year. 
Usually, the number of turnovers is 
more than three, so adopting this as 
a basis, it will be seen that, instead 
of obtaining the 25 per cent men- 
tioned above, he will be receiving 75 
per cent. There has been 

quite a large profit on many of the 
new cotton mill products, because the 
sale has recently increased, thus 
making the cost of distribution lower 
and the profits higher. Such fabrics 
as that considered are first bleached, 
and then usually piece dyed in some 
popular shade. 

THE BLEACHING 
must be done by a chemical which 
will harm neither the silk nor the 
cotton. Some seasons printed patterns 
are used when the fabrics are sold 
in the white state, although recently 
the demand has not been large for 
such styles. The price for finishing 
and dyeing will vary somewhat, but 
probably three cents a yard will give 
a general idea as to the price for 
cloth such ap that considered. The 



88 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



silk is usually quite a little lighter in 
the finished cloth than it is when 
woven, because there is a certain 
amount of gum in the silk yarn, 
which gum is partly removed when 
the cloth is bleached and fin- 
ished and the small amount of 
starch which is added in the finishing 
operation does not counteract the loss 
of weight in the finishing process. 

These cloths are finished out prac- 
tically to their grey width as they 
come from the loom. Sometimes the 
cloth is cross dyed with the silk one 
color, and with the cotton another 
while at other times the cotton will 
be dyed, and the silk will remain 
white, so as to form a contrast. When 
the sizes of silk used by cotton mills 
are known, the analysis of a silk and 
cotton cloth presents no great amount 
of difficulty, inasmuch as the weights 



are obtained just the same as when 
an all-cotton cloth is being treated. 
The method of obtaining the cloth and 
yarn weights is as follows. (The 
size of the silk used as men- 
tioned previously is 90,000 yards per 
pound, and is not the theoretical 
yardage, although a manufacturer can 
substitute the actual size which he 
finds his silk to be in obtaining his 
correct weights.) 

3,300 ends -f- (40/1 X 840) = .0982, weight 
of warp yarn per yard without take-up. 

6% take-up in weaving. 

.0982 -i- .94 = .1045, total weight of warp 
yarn per yard of woven cloth. 

72 picks per inch X 38" reed width X 36" 

36" 

2,736 yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
2,736 h- 90,000 (silk yardage) = .0304. 

weight of silk filling per yard of cloth. 
.1045 + .0304 = .1349, total weight per 

yard. 
1.0000 -J- .1349 = 7.41 yards per pound 

(grey). 



> PATTERN. 

2 2 

40/1 Am. combed warp — 3,236 — = 3,300 total ends. 

16 16 

14/16 Dernier 3 thread Canton silk; 72 picks. 

43 reed; 38" reed width; 36" grey width; 35Ms-36" finished width. 
91 X 72 grey count; 92 X 70 finished count. 



YARNS. 

Cotton. 
40/1 Am. combed warp; 1%" staple; 8 hank dou. rov., 15c. 

14/16 3 thread Canton silk; 90,000 yds. per lb. Ready on quills 



Labor, 

waste, etc. 

11 %c. 



= 26 %c. 
= $3.80 



COST. 

3,300 ends 40/1 Am. combed warp + 6% take-up = .1045 @ 26%c. = $ .0281 

72 picks 14/16 3 thread Canton filling = .0304 @ $3.80 = .1155 

Weaving 0122 

Expenses 0167 

Selling (grey) !o036 

Mill cost (grey) $.1760 

Converter's purchasing price from mill (about) 1950 

Finishing and converter's expenses 0525 

Cost to converter 2475 

Cost to jobber .2750 

Cost to retailer 3250 

Cost to consumer 4800 

Yards per pound 7.41 (grey). 



* * » 



NOVELTY YARN STRIPED CREPE 

That there has been a great im- 
provement in the fancy cotton fabrics 
produced in domestic mills is well 
recognized by any one who is at all 
familiar with selling conditions. This 
improvement includes not only the 
styling of the fabric, but also the 



quality of the yarns from which the 
cloths are woven. It may be that the 
class of fabrics which have been sell- 
ing for the past few years has had 
much to do with the better appear- 
ance, but without doubt a part at 
least of the improvement is due to 
the natural progress of a rapidly 
growing industry, and a part to the 
increased experience obtained from a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



89 



freer interchange of manufacturing 
and finishing knowledge. 

A very good illustration of this 
progress is shown in the development 
of voile cloths. When these were first 
produced extensively in cotton, the 
constructions were not entirely suit- 
able, and the yarns were often irreg- 
ular and detracted much from the 
finished results. Gradually mills be- 
came accustomed to making such fab- 
rics, and were able to determine the 
correct amount of twist and the right 
combinations to use in producing 
a good article, and in order for other 
mills to obtain business they had to 
produce better yarn, if they secured 
many orders on these fabrics, espe- 
cially if the cloth was considered high 
class, and was to be sold at a com- 
paratively high price. 

The use of silk yarn in voile fabrics 
often showed up cotton yarn ir- 
regularities through contrast, and for 
this reason forced the production of 
better yarns. When the demand for 
voiles began to grow less, the inter- 
est of buyers on novelty yarn fabrics 
increased. In many of these materials, 
the irregular appearance permitted the 
use of comparatively poor yarn, but 
the competition which developed and 
style changes have made it neces- 
sary to use much care if the best re- 
sults be produced. Similar conditions 
have been noted on crepes, and al- 
though the finished fabrics are rath- 
er irregular in appearance, the yarns 
must be better than for certain other 
similar weight materials, because the 
construction is low, and irregularities 
appear prominently. Possibly, the ideas 
which are being used most extensive- 
ly at present for fancy cotton fabrics 
are novelty yarns and crepe effects. 
Cloths made by such methods are 
used extensively for dresses, although 
there are other uses, and for this 
reason, a wide distribution is possible. 
We are illustrating a garment which 
is made from one of the newer fab- 
rics, and which contains ideas some- 
what similar to those in the fabric 
analyzed, and shows in a general way 
the results possible. Because light 
ground cloths have sold well, the use 
of novelty yarns has been of advan- 
tage, inasmuch as their heavy size has 



allowed much contrast to be devel- 
oped, and has made it possible for ef- 
fects to be produced, which at other 
times would be considered undesir- 
able. 

One of the most important features 
in connection with the use of novelty 
yarns, and one which has not been 
mentioned to any great extent is that 
the variety and combinations which 
are possible in fabrics made from 
them are more extensive than any 
other class of cotton cloths formerly 
produced. A short investigation into 
the stock of fabrics carried by any 
large retailer will clearly demonstrate 
the above fact. Consumers desire to 
have a great deal of variety in dress 
materials, even though they do cling to 
general styles when they are being 
used, and the use of novelty yarns 
affords an opportunity seldom experi- 
enced. Probably most every novelty 
yarn fabric is different in some es- 
sential respect from other similar 
cloths, even though the general cloth 
appearance is duplicated. 

The combination of yarn sizes, the 
twist per inch in the yarn, and the 
cloth count, all have a greater result 
on cloth effects than they are likely to 
have when ordinary materials are be- 
ing manufactured. The fact that a 
mill has to use machinery and yarns 
available is also likely to affect the 
result obtained. In addition to the 
wide range of effects possible from 
similar yarns, there are the different 
methods of twisting, such as loop, 
nub, corkscrew, slub and various oth- 
er ideas, both separately and in com- 
bination. In all these ideas, it is pos- 
sible not only to use different sizes 
and twists of yarn, but also to use 
various colors, and in some cases 
various combinations of materials. 
All these facts are responsible for a 
greater variety of styles than have 
ever before been possible, and have 
been the means of 

EDUCATING MILL MEN ! 

in regard to the developing of fab- 
rics. 

When novelty yarn cloths first be- 
gan to appear, a large majority of mill 
men would have, and did, state posi- 
tively that they could not be made in 
most domestic mills. It is true that a 



90 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



small proportion of them cannot be 
so made, but during the past two 
years many mill men who were for- 
merly positive regarding this point 
have found out that they can be suc- 
cessfully produced, and with com- 
paratively no changes in the machin- 
ery of an ordinary mill. The reason 
these men believed such yarns 
could not be made was due to un- 
familiarity with the subject, and be- 
cause many of them were operating 
in a rut through the manufacture of 
a comparatively few styles of cloth, 
and no changes year in and year out. 
Practically the entire range of ef- 
fects are produced througn t* e char- 



ing the novelty yarn more prominent. 
This is true in the fabric analyzed 
where an ordinary four-harness twill 
has been used with the novelty yarn 
on the face of the cloth, in order to 
make it more prominent. In certain 
other similar lines, somewhat similar 
methods are being used to show up 
the novelty yarn effects. 

NOVELTY YARN MAKING. 

The novelty yarn used in the fab- 
ric analyzed represents very well the 
general characteristics of most of 
such materials. It is produced by no 
special machinery, and can be made by 
any mill from ordinary yarns. Two 




One of the Popular Novelty Yarn Cr pes. 



acter of the yarn, and up to the 
present, very few attempts have been 
made to use any fancy weaves. Re- 
cently, the combination of novelty 
yarn with other fabrics has allowed 
a greater possibility in this direction, 
and certain of the styles which have 
been developed for next season's use 
contain simple weaves, which aid in 
the result, although in most cases 
the prominent feature is the effect 
produced through the yarn. Naturally, 
the size of the novelty yarn precludes 
any great use of various weaves, for 
they would not be visible at all, and 
in most instances the weaves which 
are used are for the purpose of mak- 



twisting processes are employed, on< 
being in one direction and the othei 
in the reverse direction. There are 
six strands of yarn employed, al- 
though in some instances fewer are 
used to produce similar effects. If 
special twisters containing two sets 
of rolls and operating at different 
speeds are not available, an ordinary 
spinning frame can be used instead. 
For the yarn considered in the first 
twisting process, the ground threads 
(two ends of 50-1) are placed in one 
set of rolls, while the loop yarn (two 
ends of 30-1) are placed in a second 
set of rolls. 
The speed of the rolls containing 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



91 



the 30-1 is practically twice as fast 
as the rolls delivering 50-1. For this 
reason, when the yarn is being twist- 
ed, the extra 30-1 yarn winds around 
the 50-1 ground threads, and is not 
held tightly enough to allow it to be 
satisfactorily used. Quite a little 
uvist is inserted, inasmuch as a por- 
tion of this twist is taken out in the 
succeeding reverse twisting operation. 
When this yarn has been completed, 
ii is taken and placed on another 
similar frame, and is then retwisted 
w ith two ends of 50-1. 

THE RETWISTING, 
or in other words the untwisting, of 
the first yarn loosens up the extra 
SU-1, and produces loops in an ir- 
regular fashion, where the extra yarn 
slips away from the ground yarn, and 
these loops are bound down firmly 
by the second twisting process. It is 
sometimes the case that the extra 
yarn in the first twisting process is 
delivered at one certain point on the 
ground yarn, thus creating a nub or 
Lunch. This sort of yarn may or may 
not be retwisted, the method depend- 
ing a good deal on the amount of 
twist imparted, and somewhat upon 
the use which is to be made of the 
product. Recently, we have noted 
yarns which were made in a method 
such as we have previously described, 
but which had in addition a nub ef- 
fect used as a binder for the first 
process. Then there is the wide range 
of effects which are made through 
the introduction of either white or 
colored cotton stock, which yarns 
have been continuously used in cer- 
tain classes of goods such as cotton 
flannels. 

A different amount of twist in eith- 
er twisting operation will affect the 
results and so will a change of yarn 
sizes or a relative change in the speed 
of the delivery rolls. In the retwist- 
ing process, the binding yarn is de- 
livered about 10 per cent faster than 
the previously twisted yarn, this being 
done so as to produce the best ef- 
fect, although with some yarns, the 
binder is delivered at the same speed 
as the previously twisted product. 
YARN SIZE AND COST. 

We have given in the fabric analy- 
sis certain facts regarding the yarn 



sizes and the cost of making. This 
is a feature which many have not 
considered in a correct manner, and 
needless to say, the results obtained 
are often very inaccurate. A good 
many have believed that the cost of 
making novelty yarns is very high, 
and this is true for certain varieties, 
not only because of their component 
parts, but also because of the difficul- 
ties caused by producing, but for most 
varieties, the cost is comparatively 
low. 

In order to obtain anything like a 
correct cost, when the various yarn 
sizes are used, it is necessary to ob- 
tain the yarn analysis with the per- 
centages of take-ups, or relative yarn 
sizes. To make the problem somewhat 
clearer, we have used a relative single 
yarn size where two ends of any 
yarn are used. With the take-ups in 
twisting, the relative yarn sizes 
are as follows: 25-1 for the 
ground yarn; 7.5-1 for the loop yarn, 
and 22.5-1 for the re-twist yarn. Using 
the ordinary method to obtain the re- 
sulting yarn size when three differ- 
ent sizes of yarns are twisced togeth- 
er, that is to divide the highest yarn 
size by itself, and the coarser sizes 
in succession, and then to add the 
results obtained. When this is com- 
pleted, the highest yarn size is again 
divided by the result obtained, thus 
giving the completed yarn size. 

In the yarn in the fabric under dis- 
cussion, the size is approximately 
4.6-1. Assuming that the cost of the 
single yarns in the mill is known ac- 
curately, it is a comparatively easy 
problem to obtain the cost for each 
size of yarn used in producing the 
novelty yarn results. Inasmuch as 
the novelty yarn, when completed, 
contains 3,864 yards per pound, this 
number of yards divided by the yards 
per pound in each yarn, and multi- 
plied by the cost, will give the cor- 
rect result. It will thus be seen that 
the various yarns used in making the 
novelty yarn cost 26.84 cents per 
pound. To this amount there must be 
added the various labor, expense and 
other items for the two twisting op- 
erations. In some cases, the labor 
cost is high, because a good deal of 
experimentation has to be made bp- 
fore satisfactory results are produced. 



92 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



There has been a general tendency to 
place too high a cost on the making 
of such yarns, mainly because few 
took the trouble to investigate the 
various items which affect the cost, 
and high prices offered a protection 
against manufacturing losses. It 
must be remembered that the produc- 
tion on the twisters after the correct 
yarn effect is produced is quite 
large, due to the coarse yarn sizes. 
One item of importance when making 
novelty yarns, and one which is often 
neglected is that there should be a 
sufficient amount of strength to make 
the yarn usable. Most of the strain 



the number of threads and picks per 
inch being very low, and the fabric 
will slip easily. In making such a 
construction, the filling yarn usually 
contains much more twist per inch 
than would ordinarily be the case. 
The hard twist in the yarn will make 
the cloth shrink up, when it is fin- 
ished, thus giving the irregular or 
crepe effect. In this cloth, even the 
warp yarn has a somewhat greater 
twist th^n usual, and the cloth 
shrinks in length as well as in width, 
although this is not a customary meth- 
od in domestic mills. The usual 
standard of twist for filling yarn is 




The Novelty Crepe Analyzed. 



is noted on the ground yarns, and 
because the twisted yarn is so coarse 
in size, there is a tendency to expect 
it to stand a great deal of rough han- 
dling. This is not always possible, and 
many yarns have been produced in 
which the ground yarn would break 
and allow the novelty effect to dis- 
appear, making bad places in the 
cloth. Good yarn construction per- 
mits a greater production during the 
twisting process, and creates much 
less trouble in the weave room with 
a higher percentage of production and 
a smaller number of seconds. 

In addition to having stripes made 
of novelty yarns, the fabric analyzed 
is woven with a crepe construction, 



about three and three-quarters times 
the square root of the yarn size in 
turns per inch, although the amount 
is reduced to three or less, when mer- 
cerization is to take place, but for 
most hard twist filling, the standard 
is from seven to eight and one-half 
times the square root of the size in 
turns per inch, with probably seven 
and one-half used in the majority of 
instances. 

Of course, there have been in- 
stances where a greater number of 
turns per inch than that indicated 
have been inserted, and in some cases 
fewer turns have been used. What 
this means for a yarn like that used 
in the cloth is shown as follows: The 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



93 



square root of 50-1 is 7.07, and with 
a standard of 1\ used, the turns per 
inch would be practically 53. Ordinary 
50-1 yarn, with a standard of 4J, con- 
tains only about 32 turns per inch, so 
that it will be readily recognized that 
the production per spindle is much 
less than it is for ordinary warp, 
with an increase in the various costs 
of producing. Many crepes are pro- 
duced with filling twisted in one di- 
rection only, but the majority of the 
high class articles contain both regu- 
lar and reverse twisted yarn. 

In some fabrics one pick of one 
twist and then another pick of the 
reverse twist is inserted, while in 
others two picks of each are used in 
succession. The pulling of one twist 
against the other when the cloth is 
finished produces a regular crepy ef- 
fect, while if one twist only be used 
the pulling is all in one direction and 
this produces a wavy effect, which 
does not look at all like the fabrics 
produced with two kinds of twist. 

Naturally, to weave two twists of 
yarn a box loom is needed, and when 
only one pick of each twist is used 
a pick and pick loom is necessary. 
To allow sufficient time for the shut- 
tles to be changed, the loom speed is 
somewhat slower than would other- 
wise be the case, possibly about 10 
per cent slower being the rate on 
comparatively narrow goods. 

Fabrics such as we have analyzed 
are likely to sell at very high retail 
prices not only because they are styl- 
ish, but also because the orders re- 
ceived are comparatively small and 
an exclusive price can be obtained. 
The general practice is to obtain the 
best price possible from buyers, and 
this policy results in high prices and 
profits when the demand is good. A 
comparatively small profit per yard 
will allow a good return to the mill, 
inasmuch as the production of the 
loom is comparatively large, due to 
the small number of picks per inch. 
Although many of these grey cloths 
cost comparatively little to produce, 
there are other features which make 
the cost to a converter a good deal 
higher. One of these is the cost of 
finishing and another is the fact that 
there is a shrinkage in the length 
of the cloth delivered instead of the 



stretch noted in a good many kinds 
of cloth. This shrinkage is not noted 
on many cloths but is evident on the 
one considered. 

Then it is a fact that selling ex- 
penses are high through the cost of 
samples and the proportion which they 
form on the comparatively small 
orders. Often a large risk is 
taken when novelties are purchased, 
for should the style change the losses 
would be quite large. On the fabric 
analyzed it is undoubtedly true that 
a portion of the price is represented 
through duties which are necessary 
because of importation. There is, how- 
ever, no real reason why many domes- 
tic mills could not produce this iden- 
tical fabric so as to sell at retail at 
less than 50 cents per yard instead 
of the 90 ceDts per yard which is 
now noted, in fact they do sell many 
cloths which cost them far more to 
produce finished at prices which per- 
mit them to be retailed at less than 
50 cents per yard. 

The number of parties that handle 
the goods have a good deal 
to do with the prices which 
are noted, although the atti- 
tude which some sellers take 
in the distribution has an influence 
on the matter. Certain fancy cotton 
goods when sold to consumers are 
handled by three different people, 
while other styles are handled by as 
many as five or six distributors 
with a corresponding increase in price, 
which often is not at all justifiable 
or necessary. We have seen identical 
fabrics selling at 50 cents and also 
at 75 cents per yard in different re- 
tail establishments, and it is often 
possible to see on the same counter 
fabrics selling at different prices, 
the low priced fabrics actually costing 
more to produce and containing more 
style than the high priced articles. 
This is not wholly caused by the ig- 
norance of retailers on the subject 
of value, but is often brought about by 
excessive prices on the part of pre- 
vious sellers and in some cases be- 
cause of wrong estimates as to the 
cost of production. In a general way 
most of the fabrics are either sold 
in the white state or are piece dyed. 
Of course, when colored yarns are 
used in making the novelty yarn, it is 



94 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



not necessary to bleach or dye the 
cloth and the effects are possibly more 
varied. The method of obtaining the 
yarn weights and yards per pound are 
no different than for an ordinary fab- 
ric. Some times when no details re- 
garding the novelty yum making are 
necessary, the novelty yarn is sized 
just the same as if it were a simple 
yarn and the result used in obtaining 
the weights. It is a 

VERY GOOD PRACTICE 
to obtain the size of the novelty yarn 
by weighing in order to check up 
accurately the figured size, such as 
we have obtained The take-ups on 
the fine yarns composing the crepe 
portion of the cloth are comparatively 
small and that of the novelty yarns 
practically negligible, excepting that 
there is a loss in the preceding 
operations. A portion of the take-up 
noted on the yarn is developed when 
the cloth is finished, but we have 
not considered such shrinkage, inas- 



much as it does not affect the cost 
of the cloth in the grey state. When 
the converter has the cloth finished 
he can regulate his expenses per yard 
by the number of yards which he 
receives, so that there is no necessity 
for using such items in obtaining the 
mill cost. The method of obtaining 
the various weights is as follows, 
the novelty yarn being considered as 
a single yarn, although it contains six 
strands of single yarn: 

1,762 ends h- (50/1 X 840) = .0420, weight 
of 50/1 warp without take-up 

6 % take-up in weaving. 

.0420 h- .94 = .0447, total weight of 50/1 
warp per yard of woven cloth. 

343 ends -H (46/1 X 840) = .0887. weight 
of novelty warp without take-up. 

2% take-up, or loss. 

.0687 h- .ys = .0905, total weight of novelty 

warp per yard of woven cloth. 

4S picks per inch X 50" reed width X 36" 

36" 

2.400 vards of filling per yard of cloth. 
2.400 -=- (50/1 X 840) = .0571, weight of 

50/1 filling per yard of cloth. 
.0447 -f .0905 + .0571 = .iy23. 
1.0000 -4- .1923 = 5.20 yards per pound 

(grey). 



NOVELTY YARN STRIPE CREPE. 

PATTERN. 
2 2 

50/1 Am. combed warp - 16 18 - - = 1,762 



24 



24 



4.60 novelty warp 



343 

2,105 total ends 



49X 

50/1 Am. combed filling, hard twist, 48 picks. 
■z4 reed, 50" reed width, 42" finished width, 47" grey width 
Finished count, 50 X 50. 

YAK. VS. 

50/1 Am. combed warp; 1 5-16" staple, 10 hank dou. rov., 
30/1 Am. carded warp; lYw" staple. 6 hank dou. rov.. 
50/1 Am. combed filling, H. T. ; 1 V4 " sta., 12 hank dou. rov., 





Labor, 


otton. 


waste, etc. 


21c. 


16%c. = 37V4C. 


13%c. 


6%c. = 20c. 


19V6c. 


24%c. = 44c. 



2 ends 50/1 ground threads 
2 ends 30/1 loose yarn 
2 ends 50/1 retwist 



NOVELTY YARN. 
= 25/1 comparative size. 
= 15/1 comparative size. 
= 25/1 comparative size. 



25/1 -4- 25/1 = 1.0000 
(15/1 + .0% take-up = 7.5/1) 

25/1 -S- 7.5/1 = 3.3333 
(25/1 + 10% take-up = 22.5/1) 

25/1 ■+■ 22.5/1 = 1.1111 



5.4444 
25/1 -r 5.4444 = 4. GO novelty yarn figured size (approximately). 
Yards per pound in novelty yarn, 3,864. 

3,864 X 37%c. 

= .0690 

25/1 X 840 
3.864 X 20c. 



7.5/1 X 840 
3,864 X 37%c. 

22.5/1 X 840 



$.2684 



$.2684. total cost of yarns used for making 1 lb. or novelty yarn. 
8c. (2 twisting operations) = 34 %c, total cost of novelty yarn per pound. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



95 



CLOTH COST. 

1,762 ends 50/1 Am. combed warp + 6% take-up = .0447 @ 37 %c. = $ .0168 

343 ends 4.60 novelty -f 2% take-up = .0905 @ 34 %c. = .0316 

4S picks 50/1 Am. combed fi'ling hard twist = .0571 @ 44c. = .0252 

Weaving 0283 

Expenses 0123 

$ .1142 
Selling (grey) 0023 

Net mill cost (grey) $ .1165 

Finishing charges, about 4c. per yard 
Ketail price, 9 0c. per yard. 
Yards per pound, 5.20 (grey). 

+-++ 



FANCY PILE FABRICS 

Probably the one fabric which ha& 
created the greatest amount of inter- 
est among buyers of cotton goods is 
the fabric which is variously known 
as toweling, eponge, ratine and other 
names which designate the same fab- 
ric. To anyone acquainted with 
manufacturing, the above-mentioned 
names mean a special cloth, although 
retailers and others have not been ac- 
customed to distinguish between 
tnem. 

An eponge, as the term is general- 
ly understood, is not the same fabric 
as a toweling or terry cloth, and a 
ratine is different from either. One 
of these fabrics is made by a finish- 
ing process, another is made through 
tne use 01 novelty yarns, while the 
other is made by a loom mechanism. 
All of these fabrics have been used 
for a wide variety of purposes, such 
as dresses, trimmings, hats, vests and 
other purposes, and inasmuch as they 
have sold largely, and are somewhat 
different in construction than fabrics 
formerly produced, it may be well to 
consider two fabrics which are made 
with ordinary yarns, but which are 
manufactured by a loom mechanism 
rather than through any other proc- 
ess. 

TOWELING OR TERRY CLOTH. 

These fabrics may be called towel- 
ing ta Dries or terry cloths. Many of 
the ideas which have been developed 
for sale at present have been concoct- 
ed from ordinary toweling construc- 
tions, and inasmuch as they are spe- 
cial fabrics and because they have 



been stylish it has been possible for 
manufacturers and sellers to be par- 
ticularly successful in their making. 

We have at intervals presented a 
number of analyses of fabrics which 
would be included under this gener- 
al heading giving the sizes of yarns 
and the methods of production, to- 
gether with the selling prices and 
probable profit. When many of these 
cloths were first produced they were 
not very satisfactory, but inasmuch 
as any special ideas are developed 
gradually and are not produced when 
tne notion is first in demand, the 
same condition is noted in the pro 
duction of fabrics such as that con- 
sidered. It might be said that there 
are two definite methods of producing 
terry cloths, one in which there are 
two warps used and in which the 
weave together with the loom mech- 
anism allows a certain amount of ex- 
tra yarn to be forced into the cloth, 
thereby producing a rough appear- 
ance on either or on both sides of the 
cloth. 

These terry cloths are produced by 
different methods on the loom, but 
the general result, so far as the cloth 
is concerned, is practically the same. 
The second method is one in which a 
different mechanism is used, and in 
which wires are inserted to make the 
loops as the cloth is being woven 
Certain styles of fabric which are 
impossible of production by the first 
or terry motion are easily produced 
tnrougn tne secona metnod, although 
of course, there are sometimes vers 
good imitations of the second kind oi 
cloths made. The wires which are 
used are inserted and withdrawn as 
the cloth is being woven, and because 



96 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of such facts the loom speed is low, 
and the cloth production is not so 
high as the number of picks which the 
loom makes would indicate. 

Various dobby and jacquard pat- 
terns are produced by both methods. 
The limitations forced by the first 
method of manufacturing are ones 
which arise from the fact that all of 
the loop threads are placed on one 
or at least only a few beams, there- 
fore allowing only one or two differ- 
ent effects to be produced, while 
through the second method there may 
be a different take-up on the various 
threads forming the loops much the 



the design, because the loop threads 
are down or on the back of the cloth 
both before and after the wire is in- 
serted. 

In the first fabric considered the 
result produced is quite novel, al- 
though it is entirely probable that the 
sale of both of these materials con- 
sidered is rather limited. It will be 
seen that the loops are not placed in 
a regular manner, as is noted on the 
stripe cloth, but that they are placed 
at intervals with quite a little of the 
ground cloth showing. The method 
of placing the loops on the cloth, or 
weave, if it might be called such, is a 




The Novelty Toweling Fabric Analyzed. 



same as there is on certain styles of 
carpets. 

"We are presenting two styles of 
fabric which are manufactured by the 
second method, namely through the 
use of wires. An examination of the 
weave of one of the cloths will indi- 
cate quite clearly how the use of 
wires is distinguished. Taking the 
loop threads which are marked at the 
top of the weave with black places it 
will be noted that where the wires 
are inserted (the places at the right 
where black marks are made indicat- 
ing such insertion) it will be seen 
that unless a wire was inserted to 
hold up the loop it would weave no 
differently than in the other places of 



four-harness one, with the loop yarn 
having four different positions anu 
being raised for one wire pick and 
then depressed for the three follow- 
ing similar picks. 

The weave is the one which many 
have been accustomed to call a four- 
harness satin, although, strictly 
speaking, there is no such weave as 
a four-harness satin. The warp 
threads which form the ground cloth 
all weave plain, as may be 
noted by examining threads number 
one, two, three, six, seven, eight, etc. 
The places where such threads do 
not appear to weave plain on the de- 
sign as laid out are caused by the in- 
sertion of the wires which form the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



97 



loops and have nothing at all to do 
with the weave of the ground threads. 
It will also be noted that there is 
no break in the plain weave on the 
ground threads from one loop to the 
next loop in the warp direction. 

It may be well to mention the fact 
that many of these novelty toweling 
fabrics are made with a much better 
construction than they were when 
the demand first began to be noted 
for such styles. Many of the cloths 
produced at that time had a compara- 
tively loose construction and were 
hardly suitable for dress materials al- 
though many of them were used for 
such purposes. Gradually as the need 



tails regarding the yarns and their 
making is what would be noted in the 
domestic market and in a good sized, 
well-managed plant. 

The cost of the cloth will depend a 
good deal upon various circumstances. 
This material was undoubtedly im- 
ported, and under such circumstances 
the yarns were probably made in one 
plant and the cloth woven in another, 
and to the costs of the yarn, as not- 
ed, there would have to be added a 
certain amount of yarn profit, depend- 
ing upon general market conditions. 
It is, however, likely that the costs 
named represent very closely the 
selling prices which would have been 



[ 



Black and White Striped Novelty Made of Single Yarn s . 



became more recognized the construc- 
tion of such fabrics was adapted so 
as to be more nearly what they are 
to-day and more satisfactory and 
with a greater amount of serviceabil- 
ity. 

We have given an analysis of this 
previously described cloth with an ap- 
proximate cost of production. One of 
the facts regarding this fabric and 
one which should be responsible for a 
great deal of service in comparison 
with many of such lines is that the 
yarns used in its making are all two- 
ply. It may be possible that instead 
of a 30-reed as we have used a 15- 
reed was used with twice as many 
threads per dent. The various de- 



noted were such yarns purchased in 
foreign countries. There are compar- 
atively few fabrics of this nature pro- 
duced in the domestic market, and, 
due to the difficulties of manufactur- 
ing, the costs of weaving and ex- 
penses per yard are much higher than 
they are on a great many other vari- 
eties of all-cotton cloth. 

This fabric can be made in the 
grey state and then dyed in the piece 
after it is woven. We have not at- 
tempted to give the various items of 
cost after the grey cloth was woven, 
but it undoubtedly was handled by a 
number of various sellers, and a por- 
tion of the price is represented by 
the duties which are assessed. One 



98 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



thing which limits the use of many 
of these fabrics is the fact that they 
are so much heavier than consumers 
have been accustomed to use for sum- 
mer wear, thus limiting the season in 
which they can be satisfactorily worn. 
There have been, however, many 
more of such goods sold than ever be- 
fore, and the development of the idea 
has been responsible for many strik- 
ing novelties, and, without doubt, 
some of these cloths will be sold con- 
tinually as dress goods. 

Possibly, the fabric which Is of 
greatest interest, although it is not 
nearly as complicated in weave, is 
the black and white striped material. 
This fabric is made from dyed and 
bleached yarns, and probably costs 
more to produce than the 
one for which the cost has been giv- 
en. There have been used in this fab- 
ric certain methods which are re- 
sponsible for certain effects, and the 
results are ones not often noted. 
Naturally, the method of dressing the 
warp is responsible for the produc- 
tion of the stripes in the cloth. The 
warp in this fabric is dressed much 
the same as it is in the fabric previ- 
ously described, excepting for the in- 
troduction of color, that is, there are 
three ground threads and then two 
threads of loop yarn drawn in regu- 
larly throughout the whole fabric. 

It may be well to note, however, 
that this cloth is made from single 
instead of two-ply yarns, with the ex- 
ception of the loop yarn which is two- 
ply in a large majority of such fab- 
rics. One feature which is of inter- 
est in this cloth is the looseness of 
the twist in the yarn which forms the 
loop. Many fabrics of this character 
have loosely twisted loop yarns, but 
there are very few of them which 
have the same result that is noted 
in the fabric under discussion. 

A careful examination of the black 
yarn will show that it has been mer- 
cerized and then dyed, but that the 
dyestuff or the dyeing process which 
has been used does not penetrate to 
the centre of this two-ply mercerizea 
yarn. When the fabric is examined 
there is a certain peculiar effect not- 
ed from the fact that the yarn is not 
thoroughly dyed, making a contrast 



with the black dyed fibres, ensuring 
an appearance of much more luster 
than actually exists. 

This result occurs because the mer- 
cerized yarn bends sharply when it 
forms the loops, opening up the twist 
and showing the white fibres at the 
top of the loop. Possibly, this result 
was not intentional, but neverthilyss, 
the effect which it produces is seldom 
noted and is worthy of mention. If 
it was intended to produce this re 
suit, a great amount of ingenuity hat- 
been used in developing it. Few would 
consider that the result noted would 
be produced through the dyeing of 
the yarn, but this appears to be the 
case. 



■ :=:■:■":■: jji:i=:::jjj: 



Weavl.ng Diagram. 

We have given for this black and 
white fabric the analysis with the 
weights of the various yarns which 
are used in its production. 

In an anaylsis of a fabric such as 
that described, the item of importance 
is the take-up on the warp yarns. It 
will be noted in the fabric for which 
the cost has been given that the take- 
up was 46 per cent, or, in other words, 
it took about two yards of loop yarn 
to weave one yard of cloth. On the 
striped fabric the take-up is quite a 
little greater, because of the fact that 
the loop is made continuously, while 
in the first fabric it was not. In this 
cloth the take-up was 69 per cent, 
thus making ten yards of yarn neces- 
sary in weaving approximately three 
yards of cloth. It will also be noted 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY $9 

that the take-up on the fine warp The weave in the striped fabric on 

used for the ground cloth is some- the loop yarn is one up and two down, 

what greater than it would be were although this does not appear to be 

an ordinary fabric produced. the case until the threads are pulled 

This is noted because of the use of out and it is considered that a wire 

the heavy yarn for loops and the had been woven in the cloth and then 

weave which the cloth contains. The withdrawn. These fabrics are very 

yarns which are used in producing interesting, inasmuch as they repre- 

such fabrics are not any different than sent the development of an idea for 

those used in making ordinary fab- dress fabrics which was formerly con- 

rics, for they are regularly made, al- sidered rather undesirable. That 

though the two-ply yarn used in the there should be variations in weave 

loops is usually soft or comparative- and an improvement in construction 

ly soft twisted. Both of these cloths is only natural, and the fabrics which 

sell at retail for $2 per yard, and we present include both ideas, 
quite a little has been sold. 

FANCY PILE FABRICS— BLUE CLOTH. 

PATTERN. 
2 2 

80/2 Am. combed warp — 3 — = 2,244 

48 48 

20/2 Am. carded warp 2 = 1,378 

684 X 3,622 total ends. 

60/2 Am. combed filling; 62 picks (not Including wires). 
30 reed; 47" width in reed; 42%" width finished. 
85 X 52 over all count finished. 

YARNS, 
v .Labor, 
* waste, Twist- 
Cotton, etc. ing. 
80/2 Am. combed warp; 1 7-16" sta; 16 hank dou. rov., 25c. 28%c. 5%c = 59c. 
20/2 Am. carded warp; 1% 6 " 8ta; 4 hank dou. rov., 13^0. 4%c. %c. = 18%c. 
60/2 Am. combed filling; 1 5-16" sta; 12 hank dou. rov., 21c. 19}ic. 3MsC. = 43%c. 

COST. 

2,244 ends 80/2 Am. combed warp + 11% take-up =.0751 @ 59c. = $ .0443 

1,378 ends 20/2 Am. combed warp + 46% take-up =.3037 @ 18%c. = .0573 

52 picks 60/2 Am. combed filling =.0970 @ 43 %c. = .0425 

Weaving 0597 

Expenses 0324 

$ .2362 
Selling (grey) 0075 

Mill cost (grey) { .2437 

Yards per pound 2.1* (grey). 
Cost at retail $2 per yard. 

STRIPED CLOTH. 
PATTERN. 
2 2 

35/1 Am. c%rded white — 3 3 3 3 3 — = 2,151 

24 24 

24/2 Am. combed mercerized black 2 2 2 2 = 688 

24/2 Am. combed white 2 2 = 684 

•171X 3,623 

30/1 Am. cara«d white; 44 picks. 

2,151 ends -*- (840 X 35/1) «= .0732, white single warp weight without take-up. 

12% take-up in weaving. 
.0732 -5- .88 = .0832, total weight of white single warp per yard of cloth. 
1,372 ends -s- (840 X 24/2) = .1361, weight of two-ply warp without take-up. 

69% take-up in weaving. 
.1361 -s- .31 = .4390, total weight of ply warp per yard of cloth. 

44 picks X 45%" reed width X 36" 

; — = 2,002 yards of filling per yard of cloth. 

36" 
2,002 -t- (840 X 80/1) = .0794, total weight of filling per yard of cloth. 
.0832 + .4390 + .0794 = .6018, total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -»- .6016 = 1.66 yards per pound. 



100 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



BUYERS' COST KEY 

Some time ago we presented a 
method whereby the cost of grey 
cloths could be accurately obtained 
by a buyer, although the various 
ideas which were employed were also 
of value to a manufacturer in that 
many of such do not observe any 
great accuracy in the systems wbich 
they employ, and the results obtained 
are sometimes not founded upon the 
basic facts of cloth construction. For 
various reasons the method adopted 
was not the one which would be 
most desirable from a manufacturer's 
standpoint, although probably the 
main reason why such systems would 
not be identical is the lack of tech- 
nical knowledge on the part of the 
buyer. Usually a purchaser can ob- 
tain the number of threads and pickb 
per inch in any cloth very easily. 

It is also possible for him to ob- 
tain the weight per yard and the 
width of the cloth. Of course, buy- 
ers often have more information than 
the above regarding the cloths wbich 
they are handling, but there should 
be no great difficulty for any one of 
them to obtain these details at least. 
As stated when we presented our grey 
cloth cost method, the fundamental 
facts were first, that there 
are 840 yards per pound to No. 

1 yarn, 1,680 yards per pound to No. 

2 yarn, or 40 times 840 yards or 33,- 
600 yards per pound in No. 40 yarn, 
and second, that in a pound as used 
for weighing cotton yarn there are 
16 ounces or 7,000 grains. 

PROBLEM NOT DIFFICULT. 

To anyone who is familiar with 
cloth analysis the problem is not at 
all difficult, inasmuch as the weights 
of the various yarns used can be ob- 
tained, but for a buyer the simplest 
method is that wherein the average 
yarn size is obtained for the cloth as 
it is sold. So far as this portion of 
the method is concerned, it is identi- 
cal with that employed wben grey 
cloths are being treated. An illus 
tration may, however, be of service 
in making the various details evident. 
A certain colored fabric contains 86 



threads and 81 picks per inch. It is 
31J inches wide and weighs 7.70 
yards per pound. The number ol 
threads and picks per inch added to- 
gether and then multiplied by the 
cloth width will produce the num- 
ber of yards of yarn used in making 
one yard of cloth without considering 
the amount of take-up. This result 
multiplied by the number of yards 
per pound will furnish the number of 
yards of yarn per pound, and through 
the addition of the take-up the to- 
tal yards per pound can be obtained. 
When any number of yards of cot- 
ton yarn weigh one pound the size 
can be secured by dividing the num- 
ber of yards by the recognized stand 
ard for No. 1 yarn. The details for 
the cloth given are as follows: 

S6 threads + 81 picks = 167, total threads 

per inch. 
167 X 31% cloth width = 5,219 yards of 

yarn per yard of cloth without take-up. 
5,219 X 7.70 yards per lb. = 40,186 yards of 

yarn without take-up. 
Using 10% take-up in weaving, we get 
40.1S6 -^- .90 = 44,652, total yards of yarn 

per pound. 
44,652 -;- S40 (standard) = 53, average yarn 

size. 

PICKS PER INCH. 

There should be no great difficulty 
in obtaining the number of threads 
and picks per inch. For a fabric 
which is entirely plain weave a com' 
paratively simple count will answer 
the purpose. For stripes, checks, or 
where any other kind of a pattern is 
employed, it is a very good plan to 
count the total number of threads 
or picks in a pattern repeat and the 
space which they occupy in the cloth, 
thereby obtaining the average num- 
ber per inch. The take-up on differ- 
ent fabrics will vary quite widely, 
due to the cloth construction, yarn 
sizes and number of picks per inch, 
but the 10 per cent which we have 
used may be considered a fair aver- 
age. Should more accurate re- 
sults be desired, it is possible 
to pull out a number of threads and 
picks, ascertaining the amount which 
tbey stretch, and thereby obtaining, 
more accurately the yards of yarn per 
pound. For yarn dyed fabrics, how- 
ever, on an ordinary good construc- 
tion, the large majority of results 
will be satisfactory when a take-up 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



101 



of 10 per cent is used. Upon this 
average number is based the cost of 
the material which enters into the 
cloth as made. 

This yarn cost for convenience has 
been made to cover all the various 
items which ordinarily affect the cost 
of production, but it is admitted that 
there are many cases which must be 
treated in an individual manner if 
anything like accurate results are to 
be secured. There are a few features 
which tend to make the cost of col- 
ored yarn goods lower than for grey 
yarn fabrics, wbile there are many 
more details which tend to increase 
their cost, so that in the majority of 
instances colored goods are relatively 
more expensive than grey cloths. Up 
to the time the yarn is placed on 
beams in the grey state very little 
difference is noted, but additional 
processes which are rather expensive 
increase the cost of dyed yarns, so 
that when they arrive at the loom 
their cost is appreciably higher than 
for grey yarns. 

EXTRA PROCESSES. 

Some of the extra processes which 
increase the cost are ball warping, 
doubling, bleaching, dyeing, sizing, 
separating, beaming, slashing and 
quilling. In many instances the proc- 
esses are even more numerous, es- 
pecially where certain results are to 
be secured. It often happens that a 
process is used which, while adding 
to the previous cost, makes it pos- 
sible for large enough economies to 
be effected in the succeeding opera- 
tion to make its adoption worth 
while. In addition to the labor and 
other expense items there are certain 
losses in yarn which sometimes radi- 
cally increase the cost and which 
are not often noted when grey goods 
are made. Some of the facts which 
are well to bear in mind when color- 
ed goods are being considered are 
that, due to excessive handling, the 
yarn sizes are usually coarser than 
are noted in many grades of grey 
material. It is seldom that colored 
yarns are used much finer than 60s-l, 
and when finer yarns are handleo. 
they are likely to be ply rather than 
single. It is probable that the large 



proportion of colored cloths are made 
from yarns of 30s-l or less in size. 
It is seldom that a much finer warp 
than filling is used, inasmuch as the 
warp is handled extensively, and the 
coarser the size the less the cost of 
handling is likely to be. This is not 
noted in the making of grey goods, 
for many of the large selling ordi- 
nary fabrics contain a warp which 
is much finer than the filling. In 
any case, there are not the serious 
objections to the use of fine warp 
which are noted when colored goods 
are being made. Filling for colored 
fabrics is handled much more than 
it is for grey goods, and for this rea- 
son a much higher standard of twist 
is employed, so as to give sufficient 
strength, though this results in a 
harsher cloth than the same size of 
grey yarns is likely to produce. 

COLORED FILLING YARN. 

Colored filling yarn is handled in 
much the same manner as warp 
with the exception of the beaming 
and slashing operations, where a 
quilling process is substituted. Com- 
paratively few combed colored yarns 
are used, mainly because most of the 
yarn sizes are so low as to make this 
process unnecessary. In some in- 
stances combing is used when fine 
ply yarns are being made or where a 
special fabric is being produced, and 
it is sometimes necessary when fast 
or dark colors are being used. The 
fibres on a black or dark dyed yarn 
are likely to be very notice* 
able when used alongside a bleached 
stripe, and inasmuch as the combing 
process eliminates a large proportion 
of the short cotton fibres and makes 
a smoother yarn, it is more success- 
ful to use combed yarn in these in- 
stances even if the cost is higher and 
combing unnecessary, so far as prac- 
tical yarn making or handling is con- 
sidered. 

One item of importance, and which 
has much to do with successful man- 
ufacturing is the correct balance be- 
tween the cotton staple used and the 
size of yarn produced. With many 
grey yarns the cost of cotton is a 
large item, and while it also is ot 
much importance in colored work. 



102 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



the additional processes make it of 
less importance, that is, it is often 
possible to use a better cotton and 
save enough through such use to 
make it worth while, whereas it 
would be an undesirable policy and 
would increase the cost on grey 
goods. For the above reason, most 
mills making dyed yarn fabrics are 
likely to use a better cotton for the 
same size of yarn than grey cloth 
mills, this being especially true when 
numbers higher than 30 or 35 are be- 
ing made, or where quality is of im- 
portance. Many grey cloth mills are 
so arranged that a great variety of 
yarns, both as to size and quality, 
can be produced, and the same is true 
regarding the kind of cloth produced 
from these yarns, but mills making 
dyed yarn fabrics use combinations 
of color and other similar features 
to produce their styles, and the yarn 
sizes and cloth constructions do not 
change radically from year to year, 
neither is there any great variety in 
the sizes of yarns being produced. 

ECONOMICAL YARN MAKING. 

This offers an opportunity to 
practice economy in yarn making, 
and were such a condition possible 
in some of the fancy grey cloth mills, 
the present cost of production could 
undoubtedly be further reduced. 
Many yarns which are dyed have to 
be given a bleaching process previous 
to the dyeing operation, while oth- 
ers are only partially bleached, and 
there are quite a good many on which 
dark colors are used that are not 
bleached at all. These varying con- 
ditions naturally affect the cost, and 
unless care is exercised incorrect re- 
sults are very liable to be obtained. 

Naturally, the best way is to treat 
each cloth separately, but a 
buyer is not acquainted at all with 
processes and cannot adopt such a 
method. Neither is there any great ne- 
cessity for any such accuracy so far as 
he is concerned, inasmuch as it is 
necessary for him to pay the quoted 
prices, and an estimated cost may 
be considered only as a protection 
against excessive profits. Colored 
goods are not sold by the same meth- 
od as grey goods, and mills 



while competing for business are not 
running on identical constructions, 
and a certain amount of leeway is 
therefore offered them. 

Possibly, the problem which would 
t>e most difficult for a buyer to solve 
is the condition which develops when 
a portion of a colored fabric is made 
of white or bleached yarns. A cloth 
which is made of certain yarn sizes 
will not cost so much when a large 
proportion is white as it will when 
most of it is colored. This is because 
the dyeing operation is a separate 
process from bleaching, and there 
are various labor and expense items 
which add to the cost, and, in addi- 
tion, there are the varying increases 
necessary through the dyestuffs used. 
The various colors cost different 
amounts, depending on the depth ol 
shade, the fastness to light, washing 
or bleaching, and other general char- 
acteristics, but when the other ex- 
penses are added, the variation in 
cost for all the processes is not so 
great as might be expected. 

ORDINARY COLORS. 

Of course, this refers to normal 
yarns and ordinary colors and does 
not have any relation to some of the 
low-grade results often produced, 
neither does it apply to special yarns 
Which have to be handled extensive- 
ly with a resulting high cost. Natu- 
rally it does not refer to stock-dyed 
yarns on which the cost of produc- 
tion is much lower, although the re- 
sults produced are many times as 
good or better than when yarns are 
dyed. 

One fact which should be mention 
ed is that the total cost of dyeing 
and handling yarns does not increase 
in the same manner as does that for 
producing grey yarns. It costs just 
about twice as much for the various 
labor and expense items on 32s-l 
grey yarn as it does for 20s-l grey 
yarn, but it is not true that the 
costs of bleaching and dyeing are 
twice as much for 32s-l as they are 
for the same kind of 20s-l dyed 
yarn. It does cost more per pound 
to dye, bleach and handle a fine than 
it does a coarse yarn, but the ad- 
vance in price does not bear the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



103 



same relative proportion to the ad- 
vance on grey yarns. 

The costs of the various processes, 
when converting grey yarns into 
bleached or dyed yarns will vary 
widely, due to manufacturing condi- 
tions, that is, when a small amount 
of any color is handled the items, 
which go to make up the cost will 
be high, but where large quantities 
of a comparatively few colors are 
being made quite large reductions 
will be noted. For this reason, thert 
will be a greater variation from any 
normal standard when dyed fabrics 
are being considered than when oth- 
er varieties of cloth are being made, 
and it is less possible to obtain a 
correct cost unless each fabric is 
considered on an entirely different 
basis, and, therefore, impossible of 
accomplishment for a buyer. The 
items which are more or less staple 
do, however, make it possible to ob- 
tain a general idea regarding the 
costs of making. Realizing that there 
are very many cases where the 
methods we have used cannot apply, 
we are presenting a table for yarns 
containing the total cost of the va 
rious processes. This is for carded 
yarns, inasmuch as they are more 
frequently used than combed: 

Total yarn 
Yu'-n size. Cost dyed. 

10 22.43 

12 22.92 

14 23.43 

16 23.96 

18 24.49 

20 25.02 

22 25.69 

24 26.30 

26 29.27 

28 29.96 

30 30.67 

32 31.40 

34 32.52 

36 35.07 

38 35.83 

40 36.55 

42 37.32 

44 3S.15 

46 41.18 

48 42.02 

50 42.85 

55 44.90 

60 49.08 

SIZE OF YARNS. 
Previously we explained how the 
average size of yarns in any colored 
fabric could be obtained. At the 
same time, it is easy enough to ob- 
tain the yards per pound by an or- 



dinary weighing process. If there 
are 7.00 yards per pound, and the 
average yarn size is 44s-l, the result 
will be obtained as follows when the> 
yarns used are all of a dyed charac- 
ter. For 44s-l average size the total 
cost from the table is 38.15 cents 
per pound, and with seven yards per 
pound the cost per yard for mate- 
rial would be 5.45 cents. Not all col- 
ored yarn fabrics are, however, of 
solid dyed yarn, in fact the majority 
contain a greater or less proportion 
of bleached material, and this com- 
plicates the process to a certain ex- 
tent. For ordinary purposes an ap- 
proximate result can be secured as 
follows: 

In a dyed yarn fabric, when thb 
number of threads and picks per 
inch are being secured it can be as- 
certained how many of these threads 
are dyed and how many of them are 
bleached. For illustration, in a cloth 
containing 80 threads per inch, 36 ol 
them are dyed, while of the filling 
24 out of the 56 used are dyed. This 
gives 60 dyed threads out of a total 
of 136. Bleached yarn costs approx- 
imately 4 cents per pound less than 
dyed yarn, so with 44s-l there would 
be 60-136 of the total weight at 38.15 
cents per pound and 76-136 at 34.15 
cents per pound, or 16.88 cents for 
dyed yarn and 19.08 cents for bleach- 
ed yarn per pound, and with 7.65 
yards per pound the results per yard 
would be 2.21 cents for dyed and 2.49 
cents per yard for bleached yarn. A 
similar process can be observed 
where fancy patterns, stripes or 
checks are employed, and while the 
variation in yarn size between warp 
and filling and the fact that different 
depths of color and other features af- 
fect the results, the inaccuracy will 
be comparatively small, due to the 
other items of cost. 

WEAVING COSTS. 

In regard to the weaving costs ana 
the various other expenses which oc- 
cur after . the yarn has been prepar- 
ed in a manner suitable for use in 
the weave room it can be said thai 
there are many items which are like- 
ly to affect the results. For ordinary 
fabrics the actual loom production in 



104 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



yards per day or yards per week is 
probably the most reliable ratio to 
consider when obtaining the cost of 
production which follows the cost of 
yarn making. There are many fab- 
rics which through special weaves or 
complicated conditions of manufac- 
ture cannot be considered on the ba- 
sis which we are using. Many col- 
ored fabrics are to-day being produc- 
ed on automatic looms with many 
more looms per weaver and with a 
reduction in the cost of production, 
but the use of automatic looms is by 
no means as common as it is on cer 
tain kinds of grey goods, and for this 
reason, cannot be considered when 
the majority of fabrics are being an- 
alyzed. 

Automatic looms do make econo- 
mies possible, but up to the present 
time these savings have been 
secured largely by the man- 
ufacturer, and there has been 
no great tendency to force prices onto 
an automatic loom basis, a condition 
which is slowly but surely developing 
in the grey goods market, and which 
is making it less possible to secure 
any very large dividends when or- 
dinary looms are being used. Loom 
production will vary according to the 
speed and percentage of production, 
and will affect the cloth cost accord- 
ingly. A box loom which is produc- 
ing any kind of check patterns will 
operate slower than one making 
stripes or ordinary patterns, but for 
ordinary fabrics of medium width a 
reasonable degree of accuracy can 
be secured. In addition to the la- 
bor cost of weaving and handling, 
there are various other expenses to 
be considered, such as insurance, re- 
pairs, depreciation, power, light, ship- 
ping charges and various other de- 
tails, also the cost of selling the mer- 
chandise. 

We have included all these vari- 
ous items under one classification, 
and while there are certain instances 
where such a classification is objec- 
tionable, there are reasons why the 

SIMPLEST METHOD 
is desirable, and there should be no 
great difficulty in ascertaining the 
correct amount for any fabric which 



is being considered. The various 
amounts for each fabric are designat- 
ed by the picks per inch which the 

cloth contains, and it is a total cost. 

Total Total 

Costs. Costs. 

Picks Cents Picks Cents 

per in. per yd. per in. per yd. 

30 1.22 66 3.02 

32 1.32 68 3.12 

34 1.42 70 3.22 

36 1.52 72 3.32 

38 1.62 74 3.42 

40 1.72 76 3.52 

42 1.82 78 3.62 

44 1.92 80 3.72 

46 2.02 82 3.82 

4S : .2.12 84 3.92 

50 2.22 86 4.02 

52 2.32 88 4.12 

54 2.42 90 4.22 

56 2.52 92 4.32 

58 2.62 94 4.42 

60 2.72 96 4.52 

62 2.82 98 4.62 



64. 



.2.92 100 4.72 



Possibly, a number of illustrations 
will make the whole method of ap- 
plication very clear to those who are 
unfamiliar with the subject. A ging- 
ham fabric contains 82 threads in the 
warp and 84 picks in the filling. It 
contains 6.25 yards per pound, is 
32 inches wide and is made from 
carded stock. (It must be remem- 
bered that the various details we 
have given are all for carded yarn.) 

S2 threads + 84 picks = 166, total threads 

per inch. 
166 X 32" wide = 5,312 yards of yarn per 

yard of cloth without take-up. 
10% take-up in weaving. 
5,312 -h .90 = 5,902, total yards of yarn 

per yard of cloth. 
5,902 X 6.25 yds per pound = 36,888 yards 

of yarn per pound. 
36,888 •¥■ 840 (standard) = 44/1 average 

yarn size. 
The cloth Is one-half dyed and one-half 

bleached yarn. 
44/1 dyed = 38.15 cents per pound (from 

table). 
44/1 bleached == 34.15 cents per pound. (4 

cents less per pound than dyed). 
19.08 (% of 38.15 cents) -+- 6.25 = 3.06 

cents, dyed yarn. 
17.08 (Ms of 34.15 cents) h- 6.25 = 2.74 

cents, bleached yarn. 
Weaving and all expenses (84 picks in 

table) = 3.92 cents. 
Total cost, 9.72 cents per yard. 

Another illustration of a cheaper 
fabric may be of more service, inas 
much as it is more nearly what the 
majority of fabrics made from dyed 
yarns are likely to be. This has a 
count of 67 threads and 56 picks per 
inch, it is 27 inches wide and con- 
tains 6.40 yards per pound. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSAR* 



:«: 



67 threads + 56 pick« — 121 total thr»ad» 

per inch. 
123 X 27" wide =» 3.321 yards of yarn per 

yard of cloth without take-up. 
10% take-up in weaving. 
3,321 -+- .90 = 3,690 yards of yarn per yard 

of cloth. 
3,690 X 6.40 = 23,616 yards of yarn per 

pound. 
23,616 h- 840 (standard) = 28/1 average 

yarn size. 
One-half bleached and one-half dyed yarn 

in the fabric. 
20/1 dyed = 29.96 cents per pound (from 

table). 
28/1 bleached = 25.96 cents (4 cents less 

per pound for bleached). 
14.98 (% of 29.96 cents) -h 6.40 = 2.34 

cents, dyed yarn. 
12.98 (Ms of 25.96 cents) -i- 6.40 = 2.03 

cents, bleached yarn. 
Weaving and all other expenses (56 picks 

from table) = 2.52 cents. 
Total cost per yard of cloth = 6.89 cents. 

DOES NOT HOLD FOR ALL. 

One of the conditions which must 
be very clearly understood regarding 
this method of obtaining the cost of 
cloth is that it does not apply at all 
to fabrics which are made from 
stock-dyed yarns, neither does it ap- 
ply where yarns are dyed in anj- 
other manner than the ordinary proc 
esses of yarn dyeing. Neither does 
the method give accurate results 
when automatic or semi-automatic 
looms are being used. Such condi- 
tions of cloth making have to be 
treated on an entirely different basis, 
inasmuch as they are responsible for 
a different cost of production. Many 
styles of ginghams and similar fab- 
rics are now being produced from 
stock-dyed yarns, and on automatic 
looms, and to these clotns this meth- 
od does not apply. In most cases, 
it will be found that results are more 
satisfactory and more accurate for 
the ordinary lines of colored dress 
goods woven on ordinary looms than 
they are for some of the older types 
of fabrics upon which new methods 
have been adopted. 



COTTON CLOTH COST FINDING. 

A Key for Cloth Buyers and Cloth 
Makers. 

The American cotton cloth indus- 
try has developed rapidly during the 
past few years, but just how fast few 
really realize unlesB they have been 



in close touch with selling conditions. 
Formerly, most of the fabrics pro- 
duced were made from coarse yarns, 
and the patterns were made largely 
by ths introduction of colors, while 
to-day the styling and weaves are of 
great variety, with yarns of much 
liner sizes and very much betteT 
quality. Naturally, such a develop- 
ment has been brought about through 
tfie demand of consumers, but along 
with this increased demand there 
h.ive arisen many problems of sell- 
in;.': and making which at one time 
we.e not of great importance. 

Il the first place many ot the new 
line*- of cloth are handled by conver- 
ters or converting jobbers who place 
ordeis for fabrics and who designate 
what the cloth constructions and pat- 
terns ire to be, and in this way the 
manufacturer is more a cloth maker 
than he is a cloth or style developer 
In a large number of cases, this con 
verter asks a mill treasurer to quote 
a price on the fabrics or combinations 
which he desires and which the mih 
has not previously made, and, there- 
fore, a manufacturer must have some 
means of knowing fairly accurately, 
the cost of making any cloth his mill 
is able to produce. This necessity 
has resulted in the keeping of care- 
ful records and from such records 
economical cloth making has partly 
been due. 

The building of large mills, to- 
gether with the great increase in 
competition, has also been responsi- 
ble for the lowering of costs of pro- 
duction, as has the greater general 
knowledge regarding the fine points 
in fabric making. Under such con- 
ditions as have developed, even the 
older mills, which make fabrics of 
bleached and colored yarns, have 
found that a better knowledge than 
formerly is necessary regarding the 
costs of cloth making, that is if they 
continue in the race with others, and 
if the fabrics they produce be the 
ones which show the best margins of 
profit. 

The cost systems which have been 
developed are, many of them, fairly 
satisfactory in the plant where they 
are used but are of comparatively 



106 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



little value to others, and it can do 
said that there is about as great va- 
riety in the methods which are em- 
ployed as could well be imagined 
Admitting that these methods of find- 
ing costs are satisfactory to the mills 
using them, it will be seen that they 
give more or less protection to the 
cloth maker in that he can auote a 
price to a buyer which may or may 
not be exhorbitant. The buyer has 
no protection at all excepting that 
obtained through asking quotations 
from different sellers for the same 
cloth, and through his own judgment 
regarding the price at which the 
cloth will sell. 

Because certaiD trained cloth mak- 
ers have information of the above na- 
ture they are of value to cloth buy- 
ers, making money for them by sav- 
ing it. Recognizing that a cloth buy- 
er is just as important in distribut- 
ing as a manufacturer is in produc- 
ing:, and knowing that absolutely no 
••"oliahle information is obtainable on 
the subject, we are resenting a few 
general rules which will be of great 
value to buyers, and which will give 
a certain amount of aid to manufac- 
turers. 

FABRIC ANALYSIS. 

It should be readily seen by anyone 
who understands anything about 
cloth that any reliable cost system 
must, be based first on certain funda- 
mental facts of cloth construction. In 
this it is no different than any other 
nroblem of construction, for the items 
material, labor, insurance, supplies 
and all the other details must be con- 
sidered carefully. To many the prob- 
lem appears very complicated, be- 
cause the items for cotton cloth are 
po small per yard. 

A. cost estimate is either made 
from a stated construction or from a 
sample submitted, and as making a 
cloth analysis consists in obtaining 
the cloth construction, the problems 
are identical when this has been ac- 
complished. There are two facta 
nnon which cotton cloth construction 
depends, first, that No. 1 yarn con- 
tains 840 yards per pound, No. 2 yarn 
contains 1,680 yards per pound, and 



so on, or, in other words, that No. 50 
yarn contains 50 times 840 yards, or 
tz.uuu yards per pound, and second, 
mat a pouna, as used for yarn, con- 
tains lb ounces or 7,000 grains. 

in giving all of our estimates we 
Have attempted to make the problem 
<ts simple as possible, not only re- 
garding the yarns and their cost but 
also regarding the cloth and its cost 
of making. We have, therefore, laid 
out the cost on an average number 
basis, and while this has its defects, 
it gives results which are fairly ac- 
curace, and wnich are much more re- 
liable than some mills have been in 
me habit of obtaining. The results 
are ones which might be noted in any 
medium-sized, economical plant, anc 
while some operate at a lower cost, 
there are others which have a hlgner 
cost, and, in this connection, the fig 
ares given will be of value. Unde. 
certain conditions, some cloth buyer? 
or cloth makers may desire to under- 
stand the method of analyzing a 
piece of cloth, and we, therefore 
present such a process. 

ANALYZING CLOTH. 

The first step in making a cloth 
analysis is to obtain the number of 
threads and picks per inch, and this 
is accomplished either by cutting out 
a certain amount of cloth with a die 
and men pulling out the threads anc 
counting them, or else by counting 
the threads with a magnifying glass 
as they stand in the cloth. The 
threads per inch in the cloth mult! 
plied by the cloth width will give the 
number of threads in the warp un- 
less there be a special pattern where 
extra threads are used. This is, of 
course, not considering the selvages, 
for they are usually about a quarter 
of an inch wide on each edge of the 
cloth, and contain about twice as 
many threads as the ground work of 
the fabric. 

The next step is to obtain the yarn 
sizes in the cloth being considered 
This is done by pulling out thread! 
and then weighing on accurate bal 
ances. The amount of yarn to b- 
weighed will depend somewhat on 
circumstances, but any amount ove r 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



107 



26/1 



100 inches will give satisfactory re- 
sults if the balances be accurate, al- 
though, of course, it is often possible 
co obtain only a few inches of cloth, 
and estimates must be made under 
such conditions. To illustrate the 
meinod uaed in finding the size ol 
yarn an example may be of service 

AN EXAMPLE. 
If 124 inches of yarn be pulled out 
and then weighed and the weight is 
1 1-10 grains, what is the yarn size? 
The formula is. 

124 inches X 7,000 grains 
1.1 grains X 36 inches X 840 standard 

The result as obtained will be clear 
enough to anyone having any expe- 
rience, but an explanation may be of 
value. If the 124 inches which were 
weighed be divided by tne weight, or 
1 1-10 grains, tne result will be the 
inches per grain, or 112 7-10. As 
thei-e are 7,000 grains per pound, the 
inches per grain times 7,000 
win give inches per pound. If this 
result be aivmed by 36 inches, it will 
give the number of yards per pound 
and wneu any given number of yards 
of cotton yarn weighs a pound, the 
size can easily be obtained by divid- 
ing by 840 yards which is the stand- 
ard for No. 1 yarn. 

Of course, in making any accurate 
analysis there are also other facts 
which should be obtained, such as 
the take-up on the yarn, or yarns 



used, both warp and filling, and the 
warp pattern or weave, if the cloth 
is to be duplicated. The take-up can 
be obtained approximately by pulling 
out yarn and measuring the length 
obtained and comparing it with the 
length of the cloth woven from it. 

as an illustration, the following 
may make the process clear: A 
thread is 61 inches long when it is 
woven in the cloth, but stretches to 
7 inches when pulled out. What is 
the take-up ? 



7 inches 
.5 inches 



6% inches = .5 inches. 
7 inches = 7% take-up. 



"With a little experience, the resuli 
obtained in this manner will be en 
tirely satisfactory. 

THE PATTERN. 
When the fabric has a pattern in 
it, some kind of a plan must be 
made if an accurate analysis be de- 
sired, but this is only necessary in 
certain instances in the plan such aa 
we have used in our system of costs. 
Following we give a plan which may 
be of service. The first step is to 
obtain the width of the pattern, and 
by dividing the width of the cloth by 
that of the pattern the number of 
repeats of the pattern may be ob- 
tained, and from this result the num- 
ber of ends or threads of the differ- 
ent yarns in the warp. 

Cloth -width. 35%". Selvages, %" total. 
Pattern width, .51 inch. 

35%" — M" = 35%" -4- .51 = 69 3-5 repeats. 
Noto that the selvages are narrower than it 
usually the case. 






PATTERN BLUE SAMPLE 

! 21 I I I I | | | | | | | 21 

I— I I I I I I I I I I I I— J 

B0/1 American combed |12| 1321 I I I 4| I | |32| 1121 = 2,564 

30/1 American combed blue 21 I 2 II I I = 276 

30/3 American carded | | | | l| | l| | 1| | II | | | = 276 

®X 3,118 



♦0* 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



To make the process as simple as 
possible, the system as we have 
planned makes it unnecessary to an- 
alyze a piece of cloth so as to be able 
to find the cost of malting. A few 
items are, however, necessary, and 
they should be readily understood. 
One fact which it is necessary to 
know is the width of the cloth. An- 
other is the threads and picks per 
inch. On these two facts, together 
with the take-up and the fundamental 
facts regarding yarn weights and 
sizes, the following system is found- 
ed. In a general way, Ihe yarn take- 
ups in ordinary cloths may be about 
10 per cent, and we have used this 
figure in our explanation. 

The take-up will probably be more 
than the amount given on heavy and 
less on light fabrics, pnd if more ac- 
curacy be desired than that obtained 
through the use of 10 per cent take- 
up the threads and picks can be pull- 
ed out, and the actual take-up of tne 
cloth noted and averaged, and in this 
manner a better result be obtained. 
It is admitted that yarn sizes are 
much different when finished cloth is 
being considered, tut, due to han- 
dling and processing, the yarns are 
generally finer in finished cloth than 
they are in grey cloth. Usually, a 
yarn which is 50-1 in grey cloth will 
become about 55-1 in finished cloth 
or, in other words, it will be about. V 
per cent finer. This fact should ba 
considered when a finished cloth is 
being analyzed, or when the cost of 
making is being obtained. 

THE AVERAGE NUMBER. 

To make the method clear, we will 
follow out the process of obtaining 
the average number from an ord ? - 
nary fabric. A wide standard print 
cloth contains 64 threads and 64 
oicks per inch. It is 38^ inches wide 
in the grey state and weiehs 5.15 
yards per pound. If the threads and 
picks be added together (64 threads 
plus 64 picks equals 128 total 
threads per inch), and then multi 
plied by the cloth width, it will give 



the number of yards of yarn in a 
yard of cloth without the take-uo on 
the yarn. This gives as a result 4, 
928 yards of yarn. As we have pre- 
viously stated, there is a 10 per cent 
take-up, and if this be added, the re- 
sult will be 5,476 yards of yarn (to- 
tal) in a yard of cloth. As there are 
5.15 yards per pound in this cloth, if 
the yards of yarn per yard be multi- 
plied by the yards of cloth per pound : 
the result will be the number of 
yards of yarn per pound (5,476 
times 5.15 equals 28,201 yards), 
If this number of yards of yarn be 
divided by the standard number of 
840, it will give the average size of 
yarn in the cloth as woven, or 34 
(28,201 divided by 840 equals 34). 
This result forms the basis of es- 
timating the cost of the material 
which enters into each yard of cloth. 
If there be a pattern in the clotb 
which contains cords or extra 
threads, all that it is necessary to 
do is to obtain the number of threads 
in the pattern and the width of 
T he nattern, and then the tota: 
number of ends in the warp can be 
obtained as previously explained. 
When there is a check in the filling, 
the same process can be employed, 
and by adding the average number 
of threads and picks per inch to- 
gether the average size can be 
obtained, just the same as If only one 
size of yarn had been used In warp 
and filling. Following are presented 
the figures previously obtained so 
that the process may be clear: 

64 threads -4- 64 nicks = 128. total threads per 

128 X 38*4", cloth width = 4,928 yards of yarn 
per yard of cloth without ♦ake-ups. 

10<^ take-up In weaving. 

4,928 -=- .9 = 5,476, total yards of yarn per 
vrrl of cloth. 

5.476 X 5.15 yards per lb. = 28,201 yards of 
yarn per lb. of cloth. 

28.201 -=- 840 standard = 34, average yarn size 

ITEMS OF TARN COST. 

The method we have adopted 
shows in a simple manner how to ob- 
tain the average size of the yarns 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



109 



which compose a fabric, and the 
next problem is to obtain the costs 
of these yarns. In obtaining the cost 
of yarn tbe first item which is of im- 
portance is the cost of the material 
or cotton. This cost will vary in 
different years and in different parts 
of the same year, so that no figures 
are absolutely reliable except for a 
comparatively sbort time after being 
presented, but a simple rule will 
serve to make the results very accu- 
rate. In the costs, as we have laid 
them out, the yarn costs are based 
od cotton which costs 14 cents a 
pound for Middling Uplands grade 
at the mill, or on to-day's basis of 
costs. This makes the cost of cotton 
aDout IBi cents, as quoted in the cot- 
ton exchange. If cotton should de- 
cline 2 cents a pound, this amoifht 
subtracted from the price of yarn as 
given will be accurate enough for all 
ordinary purposes, and if the price 
of cotton should advance, any extra 
charges over the 13J cents, as quoted 
on the exchange, should be added to 
the price of the yarn as given. The 
finer yarns are, of course, made from 
longer staple cotton, but it has been 
found tnat the advances for the dif- 
ferent lengths of staples are quite reg 
ular, and that if the advances or de- 
creases noted on Middling Uplands 
grade be added to or subtracted from 
the yarn costs as given and made 
from longer staple cotton, the results 
will be entirely satisfactory. The 
price of Middling Uplands can always 
be obtained from any good textile pa- 
per. 

LOSSES IN PROCESSING. 

When the price of cotton has been 
obtained there are, of course, certain 
losses in processing at the mill which 
make the net cost of cotton in the 
yarn somewhat higher than it was 
when purchased. We have consider- 
ed normal conditions in the amounts 
of waste made and in the extra price 
made necessary through this loss, 
and, of course, the loss on combed 



yarn is much higher than that for 
carded yarn. 

In addition to the price of material 
in the yarn is the cost of the labor 
of spinning it and getting it In a 
condition ready to weave, and also 
the various expenses such as sup- 
plies, insurance, depreciation and the 
other costs necessary in the processes 
of making yarn. Yarns are not all 
made with the same amount of twist, 
and because the twist will vary, the 
production per spindle will vary, and. 
naturally, when the production va- 
ries, the cost of making will vary, 
but for normal yarns the cost of the 
cotton forms such a large proportion 
that a small variation in production 
does not greatly affect the total cost 
of the finished material. 

COMBED YARNS. 

Not only do combed yarns have a 
greater loss in cotton but they also 
have a somewhat larger expense In 
making, and this has been considered 
in calculating the costs. Then it is also 
true that warp yarn made from a 
certain cotton is likely to be of a 
coarser size than filling made from 
the same length of staple. Thus. 
30s-l warp might be made from 1 1-16- 
inch staple, while the same staple 
would be used in filling as fine as 
40s-l. As we have only given one 
cost, which is the average for both 
warp and filling, the change in length 
of staple comes at a higher number 
than it would if warp and filling had 
been considered separately, that is, 
by obtaining an average price the 
cost of, say, 44s-l yarn would be 
rather low for warp and high for fill- 
ing, but is a fair average. 

Admitting that there are certain 
faults in treating the subject a3 we 
have, but which are due to the fact 
that it is a short system and one 
which can be used by those not ac- 
quainted with a great amount of tech- 
nical detail used in cloth making, we 
give the following table of yarn costs 
for both combed and carded yarns: 



110 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



YARN COSTS FOR COMBED AND 
CARDED YARNS. 

including All Costs up to the Weave 
Room. 

Carded. Combed. 

(Cents (Cents 

Size. per pound.) per pound.) 

10 14.68 22.14 

1* 14.92 22.60 

14 15.18 22.69 

16 16.46 22.99 

18 16.74 23.29 

20 16.02 23.61 

22 16.34 23.95 

24 16.66 24.31 

26 19.22 24.63 

28 19.56 26.01 

30 19.92 25.40 

82 20.30 25.82 

34 20.67 26.23 

36 23.27 26.60 

38 23.68 27.04 

40 24.05 27.44 

42 24.47 27.91 

44 24.95 28.42 

46 27.63 31.51 

48 28.12 32.05 

50 28.60 32.56 

65 29.77 33.86 

60 33.08 37.62 

65 34.58 39.23 

70 43.39 

76 45.09 

80 49.49 

85 61.52 

90 56.21 

95 58.44 

100 63.11 

METHOD OF USING YARN KEY. 

We have previously explained how 
to obtain the average number in an? 
piece of cloth, and it is a simple 
process, for all that is needed is the 
total average threads and picks per 
inch, and by actually weighing the 
cloth, the average size of the yarn 
can be obtained. Buyers can obtain 
the weight of the cloth and the count 
because it is usually given in the 
contracts made, but when it is not 
available, it can be very easily ob- 
tained. We have found that the av- 
erage size of yarn in the standard 
print cloth is about 34s-l. By refer- 
ring to the table we find that for 
carded yarn the cost of making, in- 
cluding the cotton, is 20.67 cents per 
pound. This cloth weighs 5.15 yards 
per pound, or .194 pounds per yard. 
Tf this cost be multiplied by the ac 
t.nal weierbt ner yard of the cloth, the 
cost of the material can easily be 
obtained, which enters into each yard 
~* the cloth, (20.67 cents per pound 



times .194 equals 4.01 cents, cost of 
material). 

Some buyers may not be able to 
distinguish wnich fabrics are made of 
carded yarn and which of combed 
yarn. When a buyer makes a con- 
tract this is usually stated, but for 
those who are not in position to ob- 
tain this information, it can be said 
that the cloth appearance in a large 
number of cases will make this fact 
plain. 

When yarns are finer than 6-Os-l 
they are almost always made from 
combed stock, while there are also 
all the mercerized fabrics and most 
of the piece-dyed fabrics which are 
made from combed stock. When a 
piece of grey cloth is obtainable, or 
when it is being analyzed and if it is 
made of carded stock there is likely 
to be a good many small specks 
which are not often present when 
the combed yarn has been used. 
Cloth made from carded yarn is also 
likely to have a certain amount of 
roughness which is not present In 
combed work. A little experience 
fill enable one to estimate pretty ac- 
curately whether a fabric has beer 
made from carded or combed yarn 
Tf combed yarn has been used, the 
nrices should b^ used as given under 
the combed heading in the table. 

CLOTH COSTS. 

We have already shown a method 
by which the average size of yarn in 
any piece of cloth might be obtained, 
and have also given a table in which 
there are included the price of ma- 
terial, labor, expenses and other de- 
tails necessary in the making of 
yarn. Wi'h the average number and 
the average price, the cost of the 
material in the yard of cloth is eas- 
ily found, but there are other costs 
which are necessary before the total 
cloth cost is obtained. These are the 
costs of weaving and the expenses 
which naturally go with it, together 
with the expenses incurred in selling 
the cloth. 

It must be admitted that there are 
a very great number of costs possible 
for weaving any certain kind of 
cloth. In the first place, there are 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



111 



certain fabrics which are being wov- 
en on ordinary looms, and at the same 
time, being produced in other mills 
on automatic looms, and, naturally, 
the cost of production will vary. 
Then it is also true that one mill will 
use a somewhat shorter staple of cot- 
ton in its yarn and then Tun Its 
looms somewhat slower and with a 
consequent loss in percentage of pro- 
duction. Other mills will use a bet- 
ter quality of cotton which coats 
more, and, therefore, be able to run 
the loom somewhat faster and obtain 
a greater percentage of production. 

Each mill bas certain problems 
whicb are individual and which must 
be worked out to their own satisfac- 
tion, but the variation taken all to- 
gether for yarn and cloth is not so 
great as many suppose to be the 
case. There are so many automatic 
looms in operation in the domestic 
market that they should be consider- 
ed when the price is being obtained 
on any ordinary fabric which can be 
produced on them. Under such cir- 
cumstances, practically all kinds of 
plain cloth, sateens, twills, plain 
ihirtings, duck, denims, sheet- 
ings, towels, drills, lawns, cambrics, 
pillow tubing, ginghams, flannels, 
etc., should be considered as woven 
on automatic looms, for they do make 
the price lower. It is often a fact 
that a certain cloth is being made on 
automatic looms and is returning a 
fair dividend at a certain price, while 
it is also true that the same fabric 
is being made on ordinary looms, and 
is returning the manufacturer prac- 
tically no dividends. 

A fact which is of importance in 
any cost is the relation of prices to 
costs. The price of cloth to-day 
shows a high profit when automatic 
looms are used, and a medium one 
where non-automatic looms are used, 
but the price of cotton to-day is high, 
and many manufacturers are using 
cotton in the cloth which they are 
selling which actually costs them 2 
cents a pound less than the present 
price, and which on an ordinary wide 
print cloth would return them about 
two-fifths of a cent per yard more 
than if they found it necessary to 



buy their cotton at to-day's price. 
This two-fifths of a cent per yard 
will make a difference in profit ob- 
tained of from 7 to 8 per cent and 
explains why profits do not appear 
any higher in our estimates. In ob- 
taining any cost of yarn the cotton 
cost must be first checked up and 
then the process is simple. 

We have given one table which 
contains the cost of weaving, includ- 
ing the expenses per loom and the 
selling costs per yard for cloths con- 
taining from 20 to 124 picks. Ou^ 
yarn cost contains everything up to 
the weaving operation, while the 
jloth or weaving cost embraces ev 
erything which is not included in tbe 
yarn costs. Recognizing that loom 
speeds will vary and that percent- 
ages of production will varv also, we 
present the following table, which, 
together with tbe yarn costs, will 
give the cost on all ordinary fabrics. 
We have given tbe cost which should 
He noted with a moderate loom speed 
with a ratb^r low percentage of pro- 
duction and a comparativplv small 
number of looms per operative. Many 
mills are able to do mucb better than 
the figures given in the table, but for 
average conditions, the table will be 
f ound to be very accurate. 



PLAIN CLOTH COST. 



Including 



Picks. 
20 
22 
24 
26 
28 
SO 
32 
34 
36 
38 
40 
42 
44 
46 
48 
50 
52 
54 
56 
58 
60 
62 
64 
66 
68 



All Costs Beginning With 
Weave Room. 

Costs Costs 

per yard. 
$0.0096 
0.0099 
0.0102 
0.0105 
0.0108 
0.0110 
0.0113 
O.0U6 
0.0119 
0.0122 
0.0125 
0.0128 
0.0130 
0.0133 
0.0136 
0.0139 
0.0141 
0.0144 
0.0147 
0.0150 
0.0153 
0.0156 
0.0159 
0.0162 
0.0164 
0.0167 
0.0170 
0.0173 



per yard. 


Pick* 


$0.0025 


70 


0.0028 


72 


0.0031 


74 


0.0034 


76 


0.0037 


78 


0.0040 


80 


0.0042 


82 


0.0045 


84 


0.0048 


86 


O.0051 


88 


0.0054 


90 


0.0057 


92 


0.0060 


94 


0.0062 


96 


0.0065 


98 


0.0068 


100 


0.0071 


102 


0.0074 


104 


0.0076 


106 


0.0079 


108 


0.0082 


110 


0.0085 


112 


0.0088 


114 


0.0091 


116 


0.0093 


118 




120 




122 




124 



112 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



As we have already explained the 
method of obtaining the yarn size ir 
any piece of cloth and through the 
table of yarn costs we have been 
able to find out how much the cost 
)f material is for each yard of cloth 
the foregoing table will enable us tc 
ascertain all the other costs which 
we have not included in the cost of 
the yarn. As we figured previously, 
the cost of material or yarn in a yard 
of ordinary print cloth, 381 inches 
wide, was 4.01 cent. By referring to 
the table of costs given above, it will 
be noted that for a plain cloth with 
64 picks the cost of weaving and ex- 
penses is $0.0088, or a total cost (4.01 
cents plus .88 cents equals 4.89 cents). 
This cloth is to-day selling for about 
51 cents, thus giving a profit of .61 
cents a yard. With a normal produc- 
tion per loom this will give a net 
profit of at least $70 per loom per 
year, although many mills, through 
their longer hours and greater 
percentage of production, wouiu 
obtain more than this amount. 
Seventy dollars a loom per 
year will give a profit on a fair loom 
valuation of 11 or 12 per cent. Thus 
it will be seen that any manufacturer 
who purchased his cotton the present 
season at 12 cents per pound at the 
mill is obtaining, with prices of cloth 
at the present levels, a profit of at 
least 20 per cent. 

In many cases, the profit obtained 
is more than this amount, for we 
have not given in our estimates any 
low figures for any single item, but 
have confined ourselves to normal 
conditions which should be noted in 
every representative mill. With the 
foregoing explanations, it should be 
an easy matter to obtain the approx- 
imate cost of any cotton fabric which 
is made on an automatic loom. 



FANCY CLOTH COSTS. 

As we have already stated, there is 
quite a variation in loom speeds and 
percentages of production on plain 
cloths, but there is an even wider va- 
riation in the above items on fancy 
cloths. The cloth constructions made 



and various other items are likely to 
affect the results, and even to the 
mill which makes the cloth the re- 
sults obtained are often not ascer- 
tainable. The analysis of a fancy 
cloth or the finding of the average 
number of yarn used is no different 
than for a coarser fabric. It is, how- 
ever, a good policy to find out the 
take-ups and use the ones found when 
making an estimate for the yarn size. 
There are so many varied conditions 
that only normal cloths can be con- 
sidered. Such fabrics as all-over 
lenos or ones on which there is a 
higher weaving expense, or where 
less looms than usual per weaver are 
run, of course cannot be considered 
on any average basis, because the 
weaving cost is so high. 

The weaving of fancy cloth has, 
however, become more systematized 
during the past ten years, and where 
there is a style which does not run 
especially well, it is usually placed 
in a set of looms in such a manner 
that it is operated on a basis not 
much, if any, different than other 
normal fancy fabrics. Jacquard 
looms a few years ago were fewer in 
number to a weaver than they are 
to-day, and in a great many instances, 
for ordinary straight tie-up machines 
the number of looms per weaver is 
as many as it is for ordinary fancy 
cloths. For this reason, fancy dobby 
cloth and ordinary jacquard cloth can 
be considered on the same basis. 

FABRIC WIDTHS. 

It would be well to remember that 
all of our costs as given apply to or- 
dinary fabrics, that is. ones up to 41 
or 42 inches wide in the grey. Fancy 
fabrics are not often made in the do- 
mestic market much over 36 inches 
wide in the grey state, but there are 
many imported fabrics in these lines 
which are up to 46 or 47 inches wide 
in the finished state. 

There are many plain fabrics, how- 
ever, which are made wider than 40 
inches in the domestic market, but 
we have not attempted to present 
costs on such fabrics, although they 
will not vary greatly from those giv- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



113 



eh in our table, inasmuch as the ma- 
terial forms such a large proportion 
of the total cost. Fancy mills usual- 
ly have quite a variety of looms in 
their organization, and all these 
looms cost different amounts, but it 
is almost impossible to separate the 
various items and place them on a 
different basis, and for this reason, 
ordinary jacquard cloths such as 
shirtings, waistings and silk and cot- 
ton mixtures are sold on practically 
the same basis of cost as ordinary 
dobby fabrics. The difference in 
costs is so slight that for all practical 
purposes they may be considered on 
the same basis. 

MILL PROFITS. 

So far as the profits of a mill 
or the selling price of cloth is con- 
cerned, it can be said that these are 
largely the result of conditions affect- 
ing the sale of goods. Fancy cloth 
mills, or at least many of them, at- 
tempt to obtain a net profit of about 
$2 per loom per week, or about $100 
per loom per year, which gives at 
least a net profit of 10 per cent if the 
mill be arranged for expensive cluths, 
while it gives more than 10 per cent 
profit if an ordinary fancy mill be 
considered. 

The profit per yard will vary de- 
pending upon the number of picks per 
inch, for it would not be a correct 
policy to expect a 30-pick cloth to 
return as high a profit per yard as 
one containing 100 picks. A cloth 
which was being produced at the rate 
of 200 yards per loom per week and 
which was showing a net profit of 1 
cent per yard would return about $2 
per week, or about $100 per year. A 
plain cloth does not need to carry the 
same amount of profit, because the 
total cost per loom of the mill is lese 
for plain cloth than it is for fancj 
cloth making. Understanding all the 
above conditions and realizing thai 
there are radical cloths which cannot 
be considered under any but an In- 
dividual basis, we presemt the follow 
ing table which includes all the costs 
of fancy cloth weaving. 



FANCY CLOTH COSTS. 

Including All Costs Beginning Witt 
che Weave Room. 





Costs 


Picks. 


per yard. 


20 


$0.0072 


22 


o.ooso 


24 


0.0088 


26 


0.0096 


28 


0.01U4 


30 


0.0112 


32 


0.0120 


34 


0.0128 


36 


0.0137 


38 


0.0145 


40 


0.0153 


42 


0.0161 


44 


0.0169 


46 


0.U177 


48 


0.0185 


50 


0.0193 


52 


0.0201 


54 


0.0209 


56 


0.0217 


68 


0.0225 


60 


0.0233 


62 


0.0241 


64 


0.0250 


66 


o.n^ss 


68 


0.0266 



Picks. 

70 

72 

74 

76 

78 

80 

82 

84 

86 

88 

90 

92 

94 

96 

98 
100 
102 
104 
106 
108 
110 
112 
114 
116 
118 
120 
122 
124 



Costs 
per yard. 
$0.0274 
0.0282 
0.02b0 
0.0298 
0.030C 
0.0314 
0.0323 
0.0331 
0.0339 
0.0347 
0.0355 
O.U36rf 
0.0371 
0.1379 
0.0387 
0.0395 
0.0403 
0.0411 
0.0419 
0.0427 
0.0435 
0.0443 
0.0451 
0.<14ns» 
0.0467 
0.0475 
0.0483 
0.0491 



METHOD OF FINDING COST 
ILLUSTRATED. 

Possibly an illustration of the meth- 
od as used on a fancy fabric may 
make the process of finding the cost 
more evident. An oidinary fancy 
cloth which is sold in large quanti- 
ties is the one which contains 64 
threads and 72 picks per inch. It is 
34 inches wide in the grey state and 
weighs about 6.30 yards per pound. 
This cloth is made from combed yarn 
and is used extensively in piece mer- 
cerization. As previously explained 
64 threads plus 72 picks equals 136, 
the total threads per inch. Then we 
have 136 times 34 inmes cloth width 
equals 4,624 yards of yarn per yard 
of cloth, not including the take-up in 
weaving. As previously noted, 10 per 
cent is a fair average for this take-up, 
4,624 divided by .9 equals 5,138 total 
yards of yarn per yard of cloth. 5,138 
times 6.30 yards per pound equals 
32,369 yards of yarn per pound. To 
find the size, this number of yards 
should be divided by 840, the stand- 
ard for number 1 yarn. Then we have 
32,369 yards divided by 840 standard 
equals 38.1, the average size of yarn 
in the cloth. 



114 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



By referring to the table for yarn 
costs we find that the average price 
of combed 38s-l yarn is 27.04 cents 
per pound. As this fabric contains 
6.30 yards per pound the weight per 
yard is 1.0000 divided by 6.30 or .159, 
the weight of the cloth per yard. 
Then we have 27.04 cents times .159 
equals 4.30 cents, the cost of the ma- 
terial per yard of cloth. Again, re- 
ferring to the table of weaving cost, 
we will find that the total expense 
and labor for a 72-pick fancy cloth 
2.82 cents, so 4.30 cents plus 2.82 
cents equals 7.12 cents, the total cost 
of producing this fancy fabric. To- 
day's quoted price for the above cloth 



production care must be taken to 
make the estimates low enough to 
cover all conditions, that is, a fabric 
might average 85 per cent production 
after the loom was started, but, due 
io certain circumstances, much time 
iebt be lost in getting the warps 
into the looms, so that for six 
months' or a year's time the actual 
average percentage of production 
might be nearer 75 per cent, and as 
a loom does not earn profits when 
standing idle, only actual percent- 
ages are of value. This policy has 
been observed in the various costs 
which we have presented in the ta- 
bles. 




Sample of Cloth for Which the Cost Is Given. 



is 81 cents, so the difference between 
the cost of making and the selling 
price represents the net mill profit. 
8.625 cents minus 7.12 cents equals l.« 
505 cents profit per yard. This is 
practically lh cents per yard, and 
assuming a normal percentage of 
production for the fabric being con- 
sidered, the profit per loom per week 
would be about $2.25. or per year 
about $117. This should give a net 
profit to a mill of anywhere from 12i 
to 15 per cent. 

Pricps are somewhat higher to-day 
than they have been for all kinds of 
fancy cloths, but most of these fab- 
rics are now showing very good mar- 
gins of profit. Id assuming a loom 



COST OF CLOTH CONTAINING 
FAST COLORS. 

Probably the greatest increase in 
any one line of fabrics has been that 
which applies to grey cloths in which 
yarns fast to the bleaching process 
are being used, and, inasmuch as a 
still greater use is imminent, it may 
be well to give a method of obtain- 
ing this cost. For such fabrics the 
average size of yarn can be obtained 
just as in the other samples we have 
considered. When the threads are 
">eing counted the number of colored 
:hreads per pattern can also be ob- 
tained, and by measuring the width 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



116 



of the pattern and finding the repeats 
of the pattern in the cloth the total 
colored threads in the warp or filling 
can be obtained. 

When the total number of colored 
threads are known, it is easy enough 
to find the percentage of the total 
cloth weights, at least approximately, 
which they form. By adding 18 
cents as an average cost for dyeing 
fast colors per pound to the cost of 
the regular yarn and then multiply- 
ing by the two weights (that of the 
grey warp and that of the colored) 
the cost can be determined. An il- 
lustration will, without doubt, make 
the process clear enough so that it 
can be generally understood. The 
cloth illustrated is made on a fancy 
loom. It is 33 inches wide in the 
grey state, or as it comes from the 
loom, and the strioes are 1 8-10 inches 
wide. Then 33 inches, the cloth 
width, divided by 1 8-10 inches, the 
width of the stripe, equals 18 colored 
stripes in the cloth width. The fab- 
ric weighs when woven about 6.00 
yards per pound. The following fig- 
ures should make the results readily 
understood: 

Warp count. 95 fover all). 

Filling count. 80. 

95 + 80 = 175, total cloth count per inch 

175 X 33" cloth width = 5.775 yards of yarn 

per yard of cloth without take-up. 
18 stripes X 14 colored ends = 252 colored 

ends In fabric. 
252 -T- 5.775 = 4.36% of color in fabric. 
10% take-up In weaving. 
5,775 -4- .9 = 6,417, total yards of yarn per 

yard of cloth. 
6,417 X 6.00 yards per lb. = 38,502 yards of 

v»rn per lb. 
38.502 -f- 840 standard = 46/1, average 

yarn size. 
1.0000 -f- 6.00 yards per lb. = .167, weight per 

yard. 
.167 x .0436 = .007, weight of colored yarn 
167 — .007 = .160. weight of grey yarn. 
31.51c. per lb. X .160 = 5.04c. cost of btp\ 

vorr 
31.51c. + 18c. = 49.51c, cost or colored yarn 

n»r lb. 
49.51c. x .007 = .35c. coet of colored yarn. 
"Weaving cost = 3.14c (from table). 
5.04c. + .35c + 3.14c. = 8.53c, total cost of 

cloth as illustrated. 



CREPE RATINE NOVELTY 

We have at various times called 
attention to the fact that there has 
been a great improvement in the 
styles and quality of the various 



fancy fabrics which are being pro- 
duced in domestic mills. These fab- 
rics have been growing in favor very 
fast, and the prices which are being 
obtained for them are much greater 
than was ever thought possible only 
a few years ago; in fact, there are 
many instances wherein cotton fab- 
rics seem to be displacing certain 
kinds of worsted materials. This has 
resulted because of changes in living 
conditions, and it is very likely that 
such changes will be even more no- 
ticeable in the future than they have 
up to the present. 

Inasmuch as higher prices have 
been obtainable, this fact has per- 
mitted manufacturers to produce fab- 
rics which they formerly could 
not make, and has resulted in quite 
a little change in manufacturing con- 
ditions. At present, the tendency ap- 
pears to be to order quite a number 
of styles from a mill, but comparative- 
ly small quantities, while previously 
fewer styles were purchased with larg- 
er quantities of each individual 
fabric. Naturally, such buying 
conditions have made the cost of pro- 
duction increase at the mill and have 
created other difficulties for the man- 
ufacturers, but it seems as if such 
conditions must be accepted by the 
manufacturers and surmounted in 
the best way possible. 

We have also called attention to the 
fact that the three styles of cloth 
which seem to be in greatest demand 
are those produced from 

NOVELTY YARNS, 
and which are generally known as ra- 
tings or eponges, and also the fab- 
rics known as crepes and voiles. All 
these fabrics represent methods of 
manufacturing which are unusual, in 
that they are different from ordinary 
manufacturing in certain respects. 
Ratings or eponges from the nature 
of the yarn used are a comparative- 
ly heavy-weight fabric when com- 
pared with most lines of cotton cloths, 
while crepes and voiles are rela- 
tively light fabrics. 

Naturally, one would hardly expect 
these ideas to be used in combina- 
tions, nevertheless, many of the fab- 
rics which are being produced for next 
spring's sale have all of these ideas, or 



116 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



some of them, in combination, or at 
least they contain methods by which 
these effects are produced. Such 
fabrics as those illustrated and de- 
scribed are used for dresses, waists 
and many other similar purposes 
where a light-weight fabric can be 
satisfactorily used and where con- 
sumers desire to use something which 
expresses the latest ideas in fabric 
construction. 

PRODUCES CREPE EFFECT. 

Some time ago, fabrics were pro- 
duced which were generally known 



rather indistinguishable, so that no 
definite pattern can be noted. 

The voile effect is produced through 
the extra twist which is inserted in 
the filling, and in certain instances in 
the warp, although this extra twist is 
not as great as when a real voile 
cloth is being produced. In a good 
many instances the standard of twist 
for such fabrics for the filling was 
about the same as for warp, namely, 
4% times the square root of the yarn 
size in turns per inch. Because the 
yarns used are single instead of two- 
ply, as in ordinary voiles, the effect 



- 



Crepe Ratine Novelty. 



as crepe voiles. These cloths were 
neither a crepe nor a voile, but they 
had some of the characteristics of 
both fabrics. The method of produc- 
tion consisted in using a compara- 
tively fine single yarn in most cases, 
but with a slightly greater amount 
of twist than usual and a weave was 
used of an uneven character which 
produced a sort of irregular or crepy 
impression in the fabric. Most of 
these fabrics were made of medium 
or fine yarns and when any weave 
is applied to such a fabric it does 
not show prominently, because of the 
fine character of the yarns. This 
condition helps a great deal in per- 
mitting a crepy effect to be produced, 
and still allows the weave to be 



produced is not as clear as in most 
voiles, but nevertheless, there is that 
crisp condition noted in voiles together 
with a moderate amount of openness. 
Such fabrics usually have a rather low 
construction in threads and picks per 
inch, although is it usually higher than 
for most ordinary voiles. In a good 
many instances where such fabrics 
are produced no extra twist is in- 
serted in either yarn, the weave alone 
making the crepy effect, although in 
the representative fabrics a certain 
amount of extra twist is used. 
Inasmuch as these 

CREPE VOILES 

have had, and are having quite a large 
sale, the idea is still being used, but 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



117 



because novelty yarn fabrics have 
been especially desirable, many of 
the newer fabrics contain various 
kinds of novelty yarn in stripes and 
checks, thus adding quite a little to 
the attractiveness of the material and 
making them more desirable when 
the style is considered. Possibly 
there are more of such fabrics being 
developed for another season's use 
than any other one idea excepting the 
entire novelty yarn fabric, generally 
known as ratine. With such large 
quantities being produced it is very 
easy to believe that prices will de- 
cline appreciably before another sum- 
mer is over. 

AN ORDINARY PRODUCT. 

One of the interesting features re- 
garding the present large production 
of novelty yarn fabrics is that only 
about two years ago it was generally 
claimed by most mill men and others 
that these novelty yarn fabrics could 
not be produced in domestic mills, 
because the machinery was not suit- 
able. Such an idea has been proven 
to be entirely false, inasmuch as prac- 
tically every mill in the country to- 
day which pretends to make any 
kind of novelty cloth, and many which 
have formerly made nothing but 
plain material, are now producing 
goods containing certain kinds of 
these novelty yarns. It is admitted 
that certain of these novelty yarns 
require special machinery for their 
production, but not many of such 
yarns are being used, and without 
doubt, mill men have learned more 
about yarn combinations and the 
production of novelty results in the 
past year than they learned in the pre- 
ceding decade. Many of these nov- 
elty yarns are produced through the 
twisting of various sizes of single 
yarns. 

In the fabric under discussion the 
noveUy yarn is produced through the 
twisting of three J hreads of two-ply 
yarns. In the first twistine opera- 
tion two ends of apnrovirpately 18s-2 
varn a^e twisted together, thpse be- 
ing delivered at different speeds. In 
a second twisting operation, in 
the reverse direction, this first twist- 
ed yarn is again twisted with a 
single end of 60s-?. Because of the 



use of two-ply yarns, the resulting 
novelty material does not contain as 
decided loops as many of the ordi- 
nary novelty yarns, being some- 
what similar to many of the 
ordinary corkscrew yarns, although it 
is not, strictly speaking, such a prod- 
uct. The heavy two-ply yarns are 
made form carded material, while the 
fine two-ply yarn used in the second 
twisting operation is made from 
combed stock. 

The heavy nature of this novelty 
yarn shows quite a contrast to the 
rest of the fabrics, and this is one rea- 
son why the use of novelty yarns 
seems so desirable, inasmuch as it 
offers 

OPPORTUNITIES IN CONTRASTING 

effects not formerly possible in any 
great number. This fabric has in ad- 
dition to the stripes of novelty yarn 
a satin stripe of an ordinary charac- 
ter. This is produced through the 
crowding of ends in a few dents, 
these ends weaving in a regular satin 
manner and showing a contrast to 
the ground work of the fabric. Ordi- 
narily, the weave which is used on the 
ground cloth to produce the crepe ef- 
fect is made upon either 12 or 16 
harnesses. Sometimes it is rather dif- 
ficult to produce a weave of this 
nature, in which there are no streaks 
either in the warp or filling. The use 
of stripes in a pattern will often elim- 
inate any trouble of this nature, in- 
asmuch as it breaks up the ground 
weave and does not make the weave 
defects so prominent. 

A fabric of the character described 
cannot be produced in an ordinary 
plain cloth mill, because it is neces- 
sary to use quite a number of har- 
nesses in its production. Naturally, 
looms must be available with these 
harnesses, so that for this reason a 
fancy doth mill would ha^e to pro- 
duce the material. In addition, the 
wide varipty in yarn sizes wou n d not 
he possible in a plain cloth mill un- 
less the yarns were purchased, and to 
get yarns of this character, at 
the present time, is likely to elimi- 
nate the possibility of obtaining the 
very satisfactory profits which can be 
secured from such cloth making. 



118 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Certain of these fabrics are also 
woven with a jacquard weave and 
naturally this makes it necessary for 
them to be produced in a fancy mill 

There are also a few mills in the 
domestic market which produce card- 
ed and combed work, although not 
prepared to make fancy materials. 
The satin stripes in a fabric of this 
character are sometimes placed upon 
a separate beam, although in other in- 
stances the stripe yarn is placed on 
the same beam as the yarn producing 
the ground work of the fabric. 
Whether these threads can be placed 
on the same beam as the ground yarn 
is largely a matter of experience and 
judgment. Usually, this method can 
be adopted if the threads are placed 
correctly in the reed. When they can 
be placed upon one beam it aids in 
reducing the cost of production and 
makes less trouble in the weave 
room. 

The adoption of every possible 
economy when making such fabrics 
is one reason why the profits of some 
mills are higher than others. In 
making fabrics of this character, the 
orders are smaller than when staple 
lines are being produced, therefore 
the styling and sample piece expenses 
are likely to be greater than for ordi- 
nary fabrics. The correct adoption of 
any good cloth idea and the use of it 
in various styles usually permits good 
profits to be secured. 

PRICES SHOW VARIATIONS. 
The selling prices on fabrics of this 
character are largely determined by 
the market conditions which exist. 
One style of fabric may sell for ap- 
proximately 9 cents a yard and 
a very similar fabric may sell for II 
cents a yard, the difference being 
brought about through the higher cost 
of production in one case and the ig- 
norance of the buyer who is willing to 
purchase at the higher price through 
his ability to dispose of it at a sat- 
isfactory profit. In connection with 
this foregoing statement, it may be 
well to state that when any new idea 
is produced, profits are usually ex- 
cessive, not only because the idea is 
desirable and in demand, but also be- 
cause buyers have no idea regarding 
relative values and often pay much 



more than a fabric is worth. Recently 
on certain styles of novelty yarn fab 
rics we have seen exceptional values 
in fabrics at $1 a yard when the 
cloths were first shown, and in com- 
parison other fabrics selling at twice 
as much did not seem anywhere near 
so desirable, neither did they cost as 
much to produce when the selling 
price was considered. The same thing 
is noticed to a greater or less extent 
in all the novelty yarn fabrics being 
produced to-day. 

Everyone, through extended dis- 
cussions of a number of years ago, ob- 
tained the idea that the novelty yarns 
used are very expensive to make and, 
therefore, the fabrics in which they 
are used could not be anything 
but expensive; and for this reason 
a buyer is often willing to pay an ex- 
cessive price for a fabric, througn tUt 
fact that he has purchased nothing in 
the past on which a comparison can 
be made and because he knows he can 
sell at a profit he does not consider 
the purchasing price. 

This condition will gradually dis- 
appear, bceause the demand for these 
fabrics is now at its height and much 
greater amounts are being produced 
on what might be called a declining 
market. Under such conditions there 
will be much more opportunity for 
comparison by buyers, and some of 
the fabrics will have to oe soid at 
low prices, for it is not believed the 
consuming public will absorb the great 
quantity of such fabrics now being 
produced. 

NOVELTY YARN FEATURES. 

The main feature of interest in a 
fabric of this character is to obtain 
correctly the various amounts of ma- 
terials which are used in making th°. 
novelty yarns. If all the yarns used 
in making this product are purchased 
then it is a comparatively simple 
matter to obtain the total cost, but 
where various other features are in- 
volved such as tho production of single 
yarns, then twisting these single yarns, 
and in addition two other twisting 
operations to produce the novelty 
effect, care must be used or results 
will not be correct. It is usually a 
good plan to cl eck up the actual 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSAR? 



11* 



weight of the novelty yarn with the 
figured weight, which is obtained 
through the sizes of the various yarns 
and the take-ups noted in their twist- 
ing. If this is done the correct weights 
used in making the novelty material 
can be obtained and results will ' be 
fairly accurate. In the yarn used in 
the fabric considered, results are not 
so difficult to obtain as they would be 
in many of the yarns produced, be- 
cause a comparatively large portion of 
the yarn is produced from nothing 
but 18-2 yarns. When more yarn 
sizes are used, as is often the case, 
the correct result is more difficult to 
obtain, although the method used is 
similar to that employed in obtaining 
i:he cost of the yarn considered. 
To the 
.COST OF THE MATERIALS 

used in making the yarn must be add- 
ed the costs and expenses of the two 
twisting operations, and in addition, 
there must be a sufficient amount al- 
lowed for the experimentation which 
must be done when making many of 
these yarns. Usually the production 
of many of these yarns is quite large 
in pounds per week, so that the costs 
of twisting are not so high as might 
be imagined, even though there are 
two twisting operations employed. The 
mill profit on many of these goods 
is quite high and depends a good deal 
upon the size of the order and nat- 
urally upon the price obtained. The 
production in yards per day or per 
week is quite large, although not 
nearly so large as when ordinary 
plain cloth with the same number of 
picks is being produced. 

The present fabric selling at 8^4 
cents per yard should net many of 
the mills producing such fabrics a 
profit of at least 15 per cent, and it 
is a known fact that many of these 
novelty fabrics have been producing 
returns in excess of 25 per cent. The 
reason mill profits have not 
shown these facts is because the or- 
ders secured have not been suffi- 
cient to operate the entire equipment 
of machinery and partly because fancy 
mills contain many plain looms on 
which there has been no profit and 
in some cases a loss. The above fig- 



ures are merely the rates of profit 
which would be noted were the looms 
employed as fully as is normally pos- 
sible. 

WHITE FABRICS IN FAVOR. 

From the cloth plan as laid out it 
will be noted that this fabric falls int' 
the regular 25-cent retailer and allows 
a profit slightly in excess of the ordi- 
nary amounts to the various sellers. 
The converter should be securing a 
profit somewhat higher than is ordi- 
narily secured on fancy cloths 
and the same condition is 
noted in regard to the job- 
ber and retailer. When such cloths 
are sold direct by the converter to 
the retailer the profits secured are 
naturally much higher than those 
given, although the expenses of selling 
to the converter are somewhat greater 
than when the cloth is sold to the 
jobber. The filling yarn will be some- 
what more expensive than when ordi- 
nary filling is considered, because the 
production is not quite so high, due to 
the extra amount of twist, and as the 
production decreases the cost 
increases. It will be noted that 
50s-l warp costs somewhat more 
than the 50s-l filling to produce, even 
though the standards of twist are ap- 
proximately the same. 

Due to the decreased han- 
dling, it is possible and cus- 
tomary to use a shorter sta- 
ple of cotton for filling than 
for warp, and this is responsible for 
a large part of the difference noted, 
although, naturally, the warp yarn 
carries expenses which the filling does 
not and which are incurred by the 
extra processes necessary in 
producing the warp yarn. A good 
many of these fabrics are sold in the 
white state; in fact, converters gen- 
erally believe that white fabrics are 
increasing in demand and have in- 
creased their lines of such materials 
for the coming season. There are, 
however, many such fabrics which 
are dyed various colors, and in a few 
instances, printed patterns are 
employed. In addition to be- 
ing dyed, many of these fab- 
rics are also mercerized, a process 
which, while increasing the cost, is re- 



120 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



sponsible for an added attractiveness 
that makes its adoption worth while. 
We have not given the method of ob- 
taining the novelty yarn size, inasmuch 
as we have previously presented such 
methods on certain of these novelty 
yarns. The cost of the yarn is ob- 
tained as explained in previous ar- 
ticles. Other than these two features 
the method of obtaining the weights 
of the yarn and the cloth is no differ- 
ent from ordinary fabrics and the 
process is a simple one as follows: 



1.870 ends ■+■ (50/1 X 840) — .0445, weigh 

of 50/1 warp without take-up. 
6% take-up In weaving. 
.0445 -*- .94 = .0473, total weight of 50/7 

per yard of woven cloth. 
SO ends h- (3.3/1 X 840) = .0288, weight oi 

novelty warp without take-up. 

2% take-up In weaving. 
.0288.-4- .98 = .0294, total weight of noveltj 

yarn per yard of woven cloth. 
64 picks X 28%" reed width X 36" 

= 1.824 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,824 h- (50/1 X 840) = .0434, total weight 

of 50/1 filling per yard of cloth. 
.0473 + .0294 + .0434 = .1201, total weight 

per yard of cloth. 
1.0000 -4- .1201 = 8.33 yards per lb. (grey). 



50/1 Am. combed warp 
3.3 novelty 



PATTERN. 
62 28 28 



52 = 1,870 
= 80 



19X 1,950 

50/1 Am. combed filling (warp twist); 64 picks. 
32 reed, 28%" width in reed, 27" grey width, 26" finished width. 

72 X 64 grey count over all, 75 X 63 finished count over all. 



YARNS. 

Cotton. 
50/1 Am. combed, 1 5-16" staple; 10 hank dou. rov., 21c. 

50/1 Am. combed fill'g, 1%" sta. ; 12 hank dou. rov., 19c. 

Novelty (4 ends 18/1, 2 ends 60/1), total cost including twisting 



Labor, 
waste, etc. 
16%c. 
15%c. 



37%c 
34%c 
29%c. 



COST. 

x,870 ends 50/1 Am. combed + 6% take-up = .0473 @ 37%c. = $ .0178 

80 ends 3.3 novelty + 2% take-up = .0294 @ 29%c = .0086 

64 picks 50/1 Am. combed, warp twist = .0434 @ 34%c. = .0150 

Weaving .0108 

Expenses .0132 

$ .0654 

Selling (grey) .0015 

Mill cost (grey) $ .0669 

Mill selling price (approximate) .0825 

Finishing .0150 

Cost to converter (not including expenses) $ .0975 

Cost to jobber .1300 

Cost to retailer .1700 

Cost to consumer .2500 

Yards per pound 8.33 (grey). 

-♦-»-♦> 



MERCERIZED DRAPERY 
NOVELTY 

Possibly one of the most interest- 
ing portions of the cotton cloth in- 
dustry, but one which is not very 
often commented upon, mainly be- 
cause the producing units are rather 
small and few when compared with 
those making staples and even fan- 
cies, is that portion which produces 
various drapery, upholstery and sim- 
ilar fabrics. Due to the use of better 
dyes and the production of more de- 
sirable and harmonious effects, these 



materials have been increasing 
in sale and are being used for pur- 
poses where they previously were 
considered unsuitable. In a general 
way, such fabrics are made from 
dyed yarns and are heavy in weight 
when compared with most lines of 
cotton fabrics. The selling prices are 
high because the cloth contains so 
much material per yard and also be- 
cause the quantities sold are rather 
small, thus making distribution 
charges large and the costs of pro- 
duction greater than would otherwise 
be noted. 

That the changes of style in dress 
goods do have a wid*» influence upon 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



121 



various fabrics is not often recogniz- 
ed by many sellers, but it is clearly 
shown by the style of fabric we have 
analyzed and which is illustrative of 
some of the leading fabrics which 
have been produced for drapery pur- 
poses. It is a well known .fact that 
novelty yarn effects have been the 
leading styles in dress goods and 
have been adapted in various methods 
for use with such ground fabrics 
as voiles, crepes, curtain materials, 
light waistings and other widely 
varying constructions, and so it is 
natural to expect the same influence 
to be noted in draperies. Of course 



yarn. It is seldom that there is less 
than twice as many threads per inch 
in the warp than there is in the fill- 
ing, usually a much higher ratio than 
that named, and for draperies the 
warp size is usually twice or more 
than twice as fine as the filling. In 
the cloth analyzed the count is 100 x 
17 and the yarn sizes used are rela- 
tively 30-1 and 3.8-1. The weave is, 
in the majority of instances, plain, 
inasmuch as more firmness is se- 
cured through such use and there is 
not the great necessity for woven fig- 
ures which there is in many styles of 
dress goods, although this statement 




Domestic Mercerized Drapery. 



the possibilities in the use of novelty 
yarns for drapery fabrics are rather 
limited for various reasons, but it is 
usually desirable to produce new ef- 
fects when they can be cleverly exe- 
cuted and when they will aid in the 
distribution of any fabric. 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 

One of the processes which is 
used extensively in making ordinary 
drapery fabrics is the poplin con- 
struction. This is a method by which 
the warp contains a comparatively 
large number of threads per inch of 
rather fine yarn and usually of a ply 
nature, while the filling contains a 
small number of picks of coarse ply 



does not indicate that figures are not 
sometimes applied. 

Ply yarns are used in making such 
fabrics for a number of reasons. 
First, they allow coarser yarn num- 
bers to be made so that heavier fab- 
rics result. Second, they permit a 
greater amount of strength and serv- 
ice to be secured together with a 
clearer result, which is desirable in 
draperies. Third, they allow many 
mercerized yarns to be used, thus 
giving the material a luster not ob- 
tainable when single yarns are em- 
ployed. Soft twist is necessary for 
any good mercerized results, either in 
yarn or cloth, and for this reason soft 
twist ply yarn is often used. 



122 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



In a poplin construction the 
large excess of warp has a tend- 
ency to cover up the filling to a 
greater or less extent, and under 
such circumstances the quality of 
the filling yarn is not of such great 
importance as the warp, and, in ad- 
dition, the fabric pattern, if made by 
colors, must be produced by the 
warp yarns. In the cloth considered 
the ribs of the ordinary poplin cloth 
are noticeable, but these ribs are 
made irregular through the variation 
in the size of the filling yarn. The 
warp covers up the filling just about 
as effectively in the heavy portions 
as it does in the finer portions, but, 
nevertheless, the irregular filling 
yarn produces a noticeable irregular 
effect in the cloth and this shows 
that a great deal of ingenuity has 
been used in the planning of the 
cloth construction. Many of the nov- 
elty loop, corkscrew, and nub yarns 
would not have been suitable for the 
style of cloth considered, and the 
fact that the right yarn has been used 
is worthy of mention. The same pop- 
lin constructions which are used for 
draperies are often used for other pur- 
poses; in fact, in many instances, 
fabrics are intended for a number of 
different uses when their production 
is planned. 

NOVELTY YARN MAKING. 

We have at various times described 
the processes by which certain of the 
novelty yarns now being extensively 
used are produced, but inasmuch as 
the yarn used in this cloth differs 
essentially from those previously de- 
scribed a short explanation may be 
of value. Certain classes of cloths, 
such as cotton flannels, regularly 
contain yarns of the character used 
in this fabric, and while the yarn 
sizes may vary somewhat, the method 
of production is practically identical. 
In the first place, the novelty result 
is produced from a number of strands 
of yarn and bunches of loose cotton 
twisted together, the bunches of cot- 
ton being spaced at intervals in the 
completed yarn. The loose cotton 
nprpRsarllv has to hf* in a condition 
capable of being handled and the 
fibres must be comparatively parallel 
so as to give some strength together 



with a uniform size of tmnch when 
the yarn is being made. 

There are a number of different re- 
sults which can be produced. First, 
the whole yarn can be made from 
stock-dyed cotton with the bunches 
of one color and the ground threads 
of the same or another color. Sec 
ond, the ground yarns can be spun 
in the grey state and then dyed and 
used with stock-dyed cotton of the 
same or a different color. Third, the 
whole yarn can be made from grey 
yarns and grey cotton, and this result 
afterward dyed, although solid colors 
only are possible by this method. 
Naturally, in the first two processes 
the ground yarns can be of different 
colors, and bleached yarns and cot- 
tons are just as possible as dyed 
ones. We are not considering the 
similar yarns containing bunches of 
cotton which are made by two twist- 
ing processes, the second twisting 
being mainly for the purpose of bind- 
ing in the bunch of cotton more 
firmly. This extra twisting process 
is adopted when such yarn is used 
for warp and "is to be handled ex- 
tensively and is not so generally em- 
ployed when it is used for tilling. 

One of the main considerations in 

PRODUCING NOVELTY YARN 

such as that used is to have the cot- 
ton bunches taper off well, inasmuch 
as this gives a better appearance and 
also aids in producing firmness, in- 
asmuch as the tapering end of the 
cotton fibres twists in better with the 
ground threads. This variety of 
yarns is often produced on an ordi- 
nary spinning frame, in fact, it is 
probable that much the largest share 
of it is produced in this manner. One 
set of rolls is given an intermittent 
motion through the removal of gear 
teeth or in some other manner. Be 
tween these rolls is placed the roving 
which forms the bunch in the com- 
pleted yarn. Naturally the intermit- 
tent motion of the rolls feeds the cot- 
ton out at regular intervals. Be- 
tween another set of rolls, which op- 
erate regularly, are placed the two 
ground threads, it being desirable to 
have the cotton bunch fed out be- 
tween these two ends as the twist is 
being inserted, and this method per- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



123 



mits tne cotton to be bound in more 
tirmly. 

The continuous delivery of the 
ground threads, together with the in- 
termittent delivery of the soft cotton 
or roving, creates a ply yarn in which 
bunches of cotton are twisted. The 
twist in any yarn will run to the 
finest portions, and this happens very 
noticeably in yarn of the character 
described, there being quite a little 
twist where the ground yarns only 
appear and very few turns per inch 
at the point where the cotton bunch 
is inserted. For this reason the 

AMOUNT OF TWIST 
which the whole product contains will 
be much different than that which 
the ground yarns would contain were 
they to be twisted separately. The 
size of the cotton bunch, the char- 
acter of the result desired, whether 
there is to be a subsequent twisting 
process, the kind of yarns used and 
naturally the yarn sizes, together 
with certain other features, regulate 
the number of turns per inch which 
are necessary or desirable. 

In the yarn considered there are 
approximately ten turns per inch av- 
erage, and this is what should be 
considered when twist gears are be- 
ing considered, although the regular 
ply portion of the material contains 
a greater number of turns per inch. 
In a good many cases novelty yarns, 
such as that described, can be spun 
direct upon the bobbins which are 
used in the weave room, thereby mak- 
ing no other processes necessary and 
reducing the cost of production quite 
extensively. 

There are certain features which 
are of interest in connection with the 
making of high-class drapery and up- 
holstery fabrics. Mills making these 
materials, 'as previously stated, are 
somewhat limited in the amounts of 
any one style which they can pro- 
duce. This makes frequent changes 
in cloth construction necessary in 'or- 
der to obtain a good distribution, es- 
pecially where high-class merchan- 
dise is being produced. Not only are 
various yarn sizes required, but the 
colors are usually even more nu- 
merous than the variety of yarns. In- 
asmuch as the orders are rather 



small, the quantities of 'any one yarn 
size used are proportionate, and for 
this reason it is probably cheaper to 
purchase yarn than it is to 'make it. 
For such yarn to be produced in a 
wide diversity of sizes a varied or- 
ganization would be required, with 
the probabilities of machinery being 
idle at least a portion of the time. 

The grey yarns which are 'purchas- 
ed are dyed and often mercerized at 
the plants where the cloth is woven, 
and this method of ' manufacturing 
permits quite a little variation in the 
product. Whatever finishing is nec- 
essary is also accomplished at the 
plant where 'the weaving is done, but 
inasmuch as dyed yarns are generally 
used, the finishing of these cloths is 
a much more simple process than 
when grey woven cloths are consid- 
ered. The purchase of yarn makes 
the problem of manufacture much 
more complicated than if yarns 
were manufactured and has much to 
do with the obtaining of satisfactory 
profits. To buy yarns which are in 
good demand and on which the price 
and profit are high is to curtail to an 
extent 'at least the possibility of prof- 
its in the manufacture of special fab- 
rics. It is also necessary to produce 
styles which cannot be made success- 
fully in the larger plants, 

Thus it can be depended upon that 
some of the buyers who have pur- 
chased solid color yarn-dyed mercer- 
ized drapery and upholstery fabrics 
will soon procure such materials in 
the grey state and have them finished 
with 'a large reduction in price. This 
applies only to a small number of 
fabrics which are purchased in quan- 
tities and not for the majority of fab- 
rics which are used for drapery pur- 
poses. Purchase of yarn, the extra 
cost of shipping, dyeing, mercerizing 
and various other necessary process- 
es, make the cost of the yarn when it 
reaches the weave room high, and 
while the loom production is large 
with a correspondingly low cost 'in 
this direction, the total cost is high 
because of the materia 1 which is 
used. It will be noted that we have 
in our cost plan given the price of the 
yarn used. This amount will vary 
according to the market and to other 



124 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



selling conditions, but it is ap- 
proximately correct for the cloth con- 
sidered. Selling charges are higher 
than for many other varieties of ma- 
terial, mainly because the quantities 
sold are not especially large. The 
rate of 'profit secured would depend a 
good deal upon the attractiveness of 
the result produced, and is not consid- 
ered upon the production basis which 
is generally used when large quanti- 
ties of any ordinary cloth are made. 

Without doubt, the success of any 
concern making special fabrics is 
more dependent upon a single person 
than when larger quantities of staple 
materials are being produced. In a 
small industry the person Avho is di- 
recting the items of importance has 
to look after many details which can 
be relegated to other persons in a 
large concern. The styles of the 
cloth are of great importance, as this 
has an influence on the sales and 
profits. Experience is necessary as 
to what methods should be used in 
best obtaining any certain results. 
With grey and most of the staple col- 
ored lines a certain method of pro 
duction can be adopted and continu 
ously followed out, but with special 
fabrics there is more flexibility in thb 
method of production and the adop- 
tion of the best method tends to keep 
down the costs and increase the prof- 
its. 

Then there are numerous other fea- 
tures which have to be considered by 
manufacturers producing special 
cloths, such as the colors to be used 
in any certain lines, the method by 
which the cloths are to be sold, the 
amount of the various styles to be 
produced, the sale of styles in such 
a manner as to keep all the machin- 
ery in operation. This machinery 
problem is a very serious one, even 
with fancy grey cloth makers, for un- 
less the orders are such that a good 
balanced production is secured be- 
tween the spinning and weaving ma- 
chinery, and unless the various kinds 
of looms are kept steadily employed, 
the possibilities of good profits are 
largely curtailed. Because there are 
more changes in styles and more abil- 
ity necessary in producing them it 
is customary for the salary ranges of 



employes to be higher when such 
cloths are being produced than for 
other kinds of cloth making. It is 
necessary to obtain good operatives 
and what is more to keep them, if a 
satisfactory result is to be secured. 

One of the fabrics which has never 
been produced in the domestic mar- 
ket until recently, but for which thero 
has been and is an increasing de- 
mand, is tapestry material, which is 
used for wall decorations. These ma- 
terials are used to cover up unde- 
sirable portions of wall, and in many 
cases are used because of desirable 
patterns or colorings. They are pro- 
duced from dyed yarns and the com- 
bination of yarn and weave produces 
the various effects. Without doubt, 
the making of large effects in such 
cloths is one of the most complicated 
forms of textile manufacture. The 
placing of the various colors and fig- 
ures where they will appear best is 
an art, and makes possible results 
which would otherwise be considered 
impractical. Many colors are used 
in the warp, and the same is true re- 
garding the filling. 

Oftentimes the warp has no spe 
cial pattern, and the method of dress- 
ing varies from one side of the cloth 
to th e other, each section being de- 
signed especially for the result to be 
produced. Jacquard looms are used 
in producing these cloths, and, due 
to the length of the repeat and tne 
great number of picks in the filling, a 

LARGE NUMBER OF CARDS 

are necessary for the completion of 
the pattern. It sometimes happens 
that the design making and the cards 
employed alone cost $1,000 or more, 
and in such instances the production 
cost is regulated a good deal by the 
amount of the tapestry which can be 
sold. When the sale is small, the de- 
sign cost is large per yard, whereas 
when quite a distribution is made 
this item is of much less importance, 
although it naturally is quite high in 
any such material. 

The illustration we present shows 
one style of tapestry which is pro- 
duced in th e domestic market, and it 
is claimed that only one concern does 
any work of this character. That 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



125 



there is any at all produced shows 
that there has been a great deal ot 
progress in the manufacturing ability 
of domestic producers, and, without 
doubt, such cloths will be in larger 
demand with a greater number of 
sellers producing them in the near 
future. 

YARN AND CLOTH WEIGHTS. 

Regarding the yarn and cloth 
weights, it can be said that few of 
such materials as that analyzed are 
sold by the count or weight as arb 
many of the fancy dress goods which 
nave a large distribution. This in- 
formation is necessary for the man- 
ufacturer in order to ascertain the 
cost of production, but such informa- 
tion is of small importance to the 
buyer, inasmuch as he is more inter- 
ested in the style of the cloth and 
the prices at which he is able to dis- 
tribute. Sometimes, when a fabric is 
to be duplicated it is necessary to ob- 
tain the various details of manufac- 
ture, but in this connection it is well 
to remember that the yarn sizes will 
not be the same as when they wert 
purchased or spun. 



The processes of mercerization, 
dyeing and handling are likely to give 
results somewhat different than when 
the yarns were originally purchased. 
In this fabric, the warp yarns are 
somewhat finer than when purchased, 
but not to as great an extent as is 
noted in many of the white mercer- 
ized fabrics which are piece finished. 
An interesting feature regarding the 
manufacture of this cloth is that, due 
to the heavy character of the filling 
and the large number of threads per 
inch, the contraction in width from 
reed to cloth is not very great, being 
in this fabric not quite one inch for the 
whole labric. Ordinarily, it is much 
more than this amount. The method 
of obtaining the weights is as fol- 
lows: 

5,000 ends h- (60/2 X 840) = .1984, weight 

of warp yarn without take-up. 
10% take-up in weaving. 
.1984 -t- .9 = .2204, total weight of warp 

yarn per yard of woven cloth. 
17 picks X SI" reed width X 36" 

= 867 yards 

36" 

of filling per yard of woven cloth. 
867 -f- (3.8 novelty X 840) = .2716, total 

weight of filling yarn yer yard of woven 

cloth. 
.2204 + .2716 = .4920, total weight per 

yard. 
1.0000 -4- .4920 = 2.03 yards per pound. 



MERCERIZED DRAPERY NOVELTY. 

60/2 Am. combed, mercerized and dyed. 5,000 ends. 
3.8 novelty yarn; 17 picks per inch. 
49 reed, 61" width in reed, 50" finished width. 
100 X 17 finished count. 

YARNS. 

60/2 Am. combed, mercerized and dyed (cost on loom beams) => 77c. 

3.8 novelty carded, dyed (cost on quills) = 34c. 

CLOTH COST. 

5,000 ends 60/2 Am. combed + 10% take-up = .2204 @ 77c. = $ .1697 

17 picks 3.8 carded novelty = .2716 @ 34c : = .0923 

Weaving 0272 

Expenses 0152 

$ .3044 
Selling 0122 

Mill cost $.3166 

Yards per pound 2.03. 
Retail price $1.25 per yard. 

*-•-» 



MOCK LENO WEAVE CREPE 

At various times we have analyzed 
and described certain of the crepe 
fabrics which are sold in large quan- 
tities; and because these fabrics ap- 
pear attractive and are selling well at 
present, it may be well to present a 



description of a special crepe which 
contains features radically different 
from most of those produced and sold. 
Manufacturers and sellers of novelty 
fabrics recognize that profits are ob- 
tained through the production of at- 
tractive styles and materials which 
are similar to a certain extent to those 
in demand, but in which ideas are 



126 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



developed that are different from 
what the majority of sellers are offer- 
ing. When fabrics of this character 
are developed, it is usually possible 
to obtain a comparatively 

HIGH RATE OF DIVIDENDS, 
which is of value in building up a 
reputation for attractive fabrics that 
produce returns. Of course, the va- 
rious fancy fabrics being produced 
to-day are, many of them, adaptations 
of the so-called ratine enects, and 
crepe grounds contain such ideas as 
well as other good selling fabrics. 
Next to the wide range of ratine 
styles, crepe fabrics appear to be the 
leaders, these cloths being used for 
dresses, waists, and various other 
uses depending somewhat upon their 
construction and appearance. Certain 
of such styles are being printed to- 
day and are having quite a distribu- 
tion, while many of them contain silfl 
stripes on which jacquard figures are 
woven or which in some manner add 
a certain attractiveness to the fin- 
ished result. Crepe fabrics have a 
characteristic softness which is not 
usual in other materials, and do not 
show wrinkles in as prominent a 
manner as some other styles, thereby 
making them have a certain advan- 
tage so far as appearance is con- 
cerned. 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 

Any crepe cloth is usually of a 
rather low count and would not be 
considered a very firm construction 
when compared with the majority of 
cotton materials. This loose con- 
struction is rather necessary, for un- 
less this method of making were 
adopted there would be no great op- 
portunity for the yarns to contract 
and produce the crepe effect. In the 
majority of instances crepe cloths are 
made with single yarns and few of 
them of anything like a fine nature. 
The ordinary cheap crepe materials 
contain, approximately, yarn which 
averages about 25-1, though the finer 
varieties naturally are made from 
somewhat finer yarns. In the fabrics 
which are usually produced, the warp 
yarn is identical or nearly so with 
ordinary warp of the same size, that 
is, the standard of twist is the stand- 



ard which is noted for ordinary warp, 
namely, about 4.75 times the square 
root of the yarn size. The crepe etfect 
is produced through the filling yarn 
and is caused by the introduction of 
a large amount of extra twist, the 
standard being anywuere from 6.50 
to 9 times the square root of the yarn 
size, whereas in most ordinary filling 
the standard of twist is seldom over 
3.75 times the square root of the yarn 
size. In the fabric considered 

ONE ITEM OF INTEREST 

is found in that the yarns, both warp 
and filling, are of a two-ply character. 
This method makes it possible for a 
clearer cloth to be produced, but for 
the same result, so far as weight is 
concerned, much finer yarns are nec- 
essary. In this cloth there have been 
used 120-2 warp and filling and both 
yarns contain the same amount of 
twist and are identical in every way. 
Usually the single yarns which are 
used in making hard twist ply yarns 
are no different than are ordinarily 
produced, the hard twist being intro- 
duced only when the two-ply result 
is being made. Such a fabric as that 
considered would be made much more 
economically from grey yarns with 
the finishing being accomplished after 
the cloth was woven, than it would if 
it were made from bleached yarns. 

BLEACHED YARNS. 

In fact, it would be unsatisfactory 
to handle bleached yarns as fine as 
are used in this cloth. There are a 
number of methods of muking hard 
twist two-ply yarns, the best method 
depending somewhat upon conditions 
of operation. For filling it is some- 
times a good plan to produce fine 
numbers on an ordinary spinning 
frame, twisting the material onto 
filling bobbins, thus having them 
ready for the loom with no extra 
processes needed, except the steam- 
ing process which is necessary 
to set the twist and make the yarn 
possible to handle. For warp a dif- 
ferent method must be adopted, as 
the yarn must be spooled, warped 
and sized before it can be woven, and 
inasmuch as the twist inserted is so 
hard, much care must be exercised 
or trouble will ensue. Filling is often 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



127 



handled In much the same manner as 
warp, being spooled, warped, sized 
and quilled on a long chain quiller. 
When this is done no steaming is nec- 
essary because the sizing process has 
eliminated the need for it. In 
certain cases other methids are also 
employed, but it is necessary to keep 
quite a tension on the yarn or else 
a large shrinkage will occur and part 
of the yarn effect when the cloth is 
woven will be lost. Whca spinning 
or twi^ng liar ( twist two-ply yarn 
there is often a great deal of trouble 
in keeping travelers on frame 
because the hard twist yarn acts very 
much as a saw and will cut through 






might be when the cloth is finished. 
Another reason why fancy weaves are 
not used on crepe ground cloths is 
because they do not appear at all 
prominent when such a cloth is fin- 
ished and the effect is largely lost, 
making the use of sutfi a weave a 
wasted effort. In some case fancy 
weaves are used with silk, but for 
an all-cotton fabric it is practically 
never noted. In this connection the 
fabric which we are considering is 
radically different from an ordinary 
crepe, for this cloth contains a weave 
which is not plain. The weave used 
is ordinarily known as a "mock-leno" 
weave and we are illustrating it to 

ki(,'^-. r ''i'J."'iV"/.-.- ; 'j'-v "■ '*"'.'•' »">;•"*.-; "<--#'."v<.V 

- ; j: ' .\. !," - •."--•'■"■ ■ -. " '■''.' ■ ■.»=-. 






I".-;!->3" : .--~"V'- '•" - ' ■-.'?- -*£ "..■.:-•''-*■ ---.'-'-:•■ r -s ■■'-■"--.•••- 



Mock Leno Weave Crepe. 



travelers in a speedy manner, causing 
many breakages. The breaking of 
one er.d is a much more serious mat- 
ter ti-i it is with ordinary two-ply, 
because the hard twist makes the 
yarn very springy and when an end 
breaks t is likely to ciuse the break- 
age of othors alongside of it. 

It is seldom that any kind of a 
crepe fabric contains anything but 
plain weave oj_ the ground cloth, or 
at least a very simple weave which 
acts much the same as plain weave 
does. The reason for this is found 
in the low construction and in the re- 
sult desired. Plain weave gives the 
most strength to." the yarn sizes used 
and is more effective than others 



make the situation more evident. By 
taking a piece of the fabric and pull- 
ing it there will be noted a distinct 

SEPARATION OF THREADS, 

the warp dividing into threes. This 
happens because of the weave used. 
Threads 1-2-3 slip in together, as d<? 
4-5-6 and so on. It will be noted in 
our analysis we have used a 17 reed 
with three ends per dent throughout. 
The same result might as easily be 
obtained, and in many cases undoubt- 
edly is, with a 34 reed with three 
ends in one dent and the succeed- 
ing dent containing no threads at 
all. This allows the effect produced 
to be more prominent and is some- 



128 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



times used. In an ordinary fabric the 
use of this weave produces an open- 
work fabric which is somewhat simi- 
lar to a leno weave, but in this crepe 
fabric such an effect is not noticeable 
and the great shrinkage from grey to 
finished width covers up largely the 
weave which has been used, although 
it makes a result which is very at- 
tractive and is not possible through 
the use of a plain weave. The floating 
of the warp and filling allows space 
for the hard twisted yarn to contract 
much better than if the weave was 
entirely plain and the crinkled ap- 
pearance makes the cloth look as if 
novelty yarn of a peculiar nature had 
been used. 

PRODUCING CREPE EFFECTS. 

There are three distinct types of 
crepe cloths: First, that class of ma- 
terials which is produced largely 
from grey yarn, usually containing 
hard twist filling alone, but in 
special instances it contains hard 
twist warp to a greater or less ex- 
tent, to which class the fabric 
analyzed belongs. Second, the fab- 
rics that are produced from 
bleached and dyed yarns, which con- 
tain hard twist usually in the filling, 
but in very few cases in the warp. 
Either of these two classes of fabrics 
mentioned may be woven on a box 
loom which produces a regular crepe 
effect, or on a regular loom with one 
twist in the filling producing 
a wavy effect. A third class of 
fabric, which many consider as 
crepe, is that class of materials 
produced through the merceriza- 
tion process. : As is usually well 
known, the application of caustic soda 
to cotton yarns or cloth will cause 
them to shrink approximately 25 per 
cent. If this shrinkage is not al- 
lowed and the yarn or cloth is held 
out to approximately its original 
width, the cotton fibres which com- 
pose the material seem to swell out 
and become more nearly round, thus 
reflecting the light and producing a 
lustrous effect. If no tension is em- 
ployed, and the fabric or yarn is im- 
mersed, a large shrinkage will take 
place, but no lustre will be noted. 
This is the method which is adonted 
in producing the crepe fabrics which 



are mercerized. In most cases, these 
crepe styles appear in the form of 
stripes and are obtained through the 
methods by which the result is pro- 
duced. Caustic soda is applied to the 
material in various stripes and the 
cloth shrinks where this solution is 
applied, while the other portion of 
the cloth will crinkle up, causing a 
wavy appearance and producing 
what many have been inclined to 
designate as a crepe weave, though 
it is not theoretically of this charac- 
ter. There are various combinations 
and styles in the several lines of 
crepe and often one style is mistaken 
for another by those not experienced 
in production. Not only is this true, 
but it often happens that mills manu- 
facturing crepes will produce fabrics 
by a method which is not the most 
economical, that is, a mill making 
bleached and dyed yarn fabrics will 
produce styles which could be better 
obtained through the grey yarn 
method. 

INTERESTING FEATURES. 

An ordinary crepe fabric seldom 
shrinks more than 25 per cent, that 
is, for a 36-inch grey cloth at least 
a 27-inch finished cloth will be pro- 
duced, while in most lines the shrink- 
age is not quite so great as that 
named. For the fabric analyzed the 
shrinkage in width from grey to fin- 
ished cloth is approximately 40 per 
cent, thus being much greater than 
for an ordinary crepe fabric. In ad- 
dition to the shrinkage in width there 
is a shrinkage in length of from 20 
per cent to 25 per cent. This gives 
a resulting fabric which is not pos- 
sible to obtain when most cloths are 
considered and is only possible 
through the use of hard twist warp 
and filling yarns. This loss is a se- 
rious item in many ways and will be 
mentioned further in regard to the 
cost of production. It might be won- 
dered just what happens to the sel- 
vages under these circumstances, but 
it will be found that the selvage ends 
are not crowded very closely and 
that they shrink perceptibly, though 
not in tbe large crinkles noted in the 
body of the warp. For this reason, 
the selvages are somewhat longer 
than the main portion of the fabric 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



129 



and contain a more or less wavy 
effect so as to take up the same 
amount in length as the main part of 
the fabric. The fabric, due to its 
great shrinkage, has to be produced 
on a very wide loom and inasmuch 
as there are very few of such looms 
in use in the domestic market in mills 
which are capable of making novelty 
constructions such as that consid- 
ered, it is very likely that the 

PROFIT PER YARD TO THE MILL 

is quite high, much higher than it 
would be were the cloth being pro- 
duced in large quantities and were il 
not of so radically different a nature 
from most materials. Due to the 
loom width, the picks per minute 
are not as high as for a narrowei 
loom, thus caus>.g a rather low pro- 
duction and increasing the cost. S( 
far as the weaving operation is con- 
cerned, there is nothing especially 
intricate in this direction, the effect 
being produced through the charactei 
of the yarns, the simple weave and 
the finishing employed. The cloth in 
the grey appears very similar tc 
many of the low constructed wide 
voile fabrics which were so common 
a year or more ago, though it must 
be said the result, when finished, ia 
not at all like the voiles usee. 

PRICES AND COSTS. 

There are many interesting fea- 
tures regarding the cost of produc- 
tion and the selling prices for the 
cloth considered. We have given the 
cost of making the grey cloth in a 
large economical mill which would be 
likely to produce fancy cloths of this 
character. It will be noted that the 
mill cost in the grey is approximately 
2iy 2 cents per yard. The selling 
price depends a good deal upon cir- 
cumstances and on the price which 
the fabric can be disposed of to other 
sellers. It is unlikely that it was 
sold for less than 25 cents per yard 
and possibly a higher price was ob- 
tained. Possibly the item of greatest 
importance to the converter is in re- 
gard to the shrinkage of the cloth 
when finished. As previously stated, 
this fabric shrinks in length any- 
where from 20 to 25 per cent in the 
finishing process. Should this cloth 



have cost 25 cents in the grey state, 
this shrinking feature alone would 
add almost 10 cents per yard to the 
grey cost, without considering the 
various finishing charges at all, which 
naturally would be high because of 
the special character of the cloth and 
the fact that it is so wide in the grey 
state. Without doubt this cloth actu- 
ally costs the converter 40 cents or 
over, not taking into considera- 
tion at all the various expenses or 
profits which are encountered in sell- 
ing such a high class novelty. Under 
these circumstances the retail price 
of $1.25 a yard does not seem espe- 
cially high when compared with many 
of the all-cotton fabrics on which the 
retail price is at least three times the 
cost of the cloth in a finished state. 
Much the same condition exists on 
the mercerized crepes being sold as 
are noted on the fabric under consid- 
eration, for on these cloths the finish- 
ers demand a 25 per cent working 
loss, though in a number of cases the 
actual loss does not amount to any 
more than 18 or 20 per cent. When 
it is considered that tnere are quite a 
number of crepe fabrics, probably the 
majority, in which there is a greater 
or less stretch in the yardage secured 
from the finisher, a decided loss on 
these fabrics is an item which must be 
carefully watched or else the profits 
which are estimated will be elimi- 
nated. 

GREY AND FINISHED CLOTHS. 

When the grey and finished cloths 
are compared, the first item which is 
noticeable is the shrinkage in width 
namely from 65 to 39 inches. The 
next is in the cloth coui t. In the 
grey state the count on the ground 
fabric is about 52 x 52, while in the 
finished state the count is about 88 x 
68. The increase in the warp count 
is brought about through the shrink- 
age in width, while the increase in 
the filling count is brought about 
through the shrinkage in length. 
Another difference, which will be 
noted, is that the material appears 
something like a voile with an open 
work weave when it is in the grey 
state, and when it is finished there 
is neither any weave apparent nor 
any prominent voile effect, the last 



130 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



feature being entirely eliminated 
through the shrinkage of the yarn. 
Another interesting feature which 
of course is not so apparent, but 
which is nevertheless of interest, is 
the weight of the cloth in the grey 
and finished state. Most ordinary 
grey woven fabrics are lighter when 
finished than they are when woven. 
Some of the items in connection with 
this are as follows: A cotton yarn 
in tne bleaching process will lose 
about 6 or 1 per cent in weight. In 
addition to this shrinkage mere is a 
loss occasioned by the wasce of size 
applied to the warp to make weaving 
operations more practical. For ordi- 
nary cloth the warp will contain from 
5 to 7V 2 per cent of size, that is in 
domestic materials, though there ar9 
many cases wnere more size is ap- 
plied. Under these conditions most 
fabrics will average to lose in weight 
from 3 to 4 per cent due to the loss 
of the warp in size. Altogether, this 
total loss will amount to approxi- 
mately 10 per cent, there being a 
greater or less loss oue to the dand- 
ling and singeing. 

FOR A DYED FABRIC 

the dyestufi will create an additional 
weight, but in no case in an ordinary 
cloth does it anywhere near approach 
the other losses. A fabric which con- 
tains a dark dyestuff may weigh 
about 2 per cent more, due to the dye- 
ing process, but for light shades the 
additional percentage will decrease 
to almost a negligible quantity. Un- 
der tnese circumstances it can be 
stated that an ordinary grey fabric 
will lose in weight in finishing from 
7 to 10 per cent. This is in opposi- 
tion to the general opinion and the 
statements of many who have never 
investigated the situation and know 
very little regarding the theory of 
manufacturing and finishing. These 
various losses are ordinary ones and 
do not include the losses due to 
stretching, which in some instances 
have been known to be as high as 
15 per cent, though in most cases 5 
per cent stretcn is more nearly the 
amount which would be noted. On 
the fabric considered it will reaany 
be noted that there is a much differ- 
ent condition existing, ior wnlle the 



grey yards per pound are 6.38, the 
finished yards per pound are in the 
vicinity of 5.25, this cloth being much 
heavier when finished than it is when 
grey, even though the yarns actually 
lose approximately 10 per cent in the 
various finishing processes. 

YARNS AND WEIGHTS. 

There is no necessity for the cloth 
weight finished to be obtained except 
as a matter of interest in connection 
with the shrinkages, but the cloth is 
sold in the grey state and it is usually 
sold on the construction and weight. 
For this reason, we are giving the 
method of obtaining the weights 
through the yarn sizes and take-up. 
When such a fabric has to be consid- 




The Weave 

ered in its finished state, it is neces- 
sary to use a great deal of care in 
obtaining the yarn sizes and various 
other items of manufacturing. Un- 
less this is done the correct results 
will not be obtained. In twisting, 
the excess twist will make the yarn 
contract and two ends of 120-2 will 
not produce a yarn which sizes the 
same as 60-1, but it will be coarser 
than the number named. The 10 per 
cent loss must also be considered due 
to the bleaching and other processes, 
so that there is opportunity, for those 
not experienced, to have the yarn 
sizes vary as much as 15 or 20 pei 
cent from what they actually shoulu 
be. In giving the details for the man- 
ufacture of the yarns we have given 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



131 



the cotton staple and other items, 
which would be noted in the normal 
mill. Some manufacturers are able 
to produce the size of yarn considered 
out of shorter cotton than what we 
have used, while it is probable that 
in other cases somewhat longer cot- 
ton is necessary. This depends upon 
the mill equipment and upon other 
manufacturing details. One item 
which must be considered when com- 
paring the cost of making such yarn 
with the selling price is that the 
production of fine yarn is a compara- 
tively small amount per spindle, and 
in order to obtain the same profit per 
spindle as on coarser numbers there 
must be a much greater relative profit 
per pound. Five cents per pound 



profit on 120-1 is nowhere near as 
great a profit as one cent per pound 
upon 30-1 and must be considered 
when profits and selling prices are 
treated in a reasonable manner. The 
weights of the yarn used and the 
weight of the grey cloth is as follows: 

120/2 hard twist contains 46,150 yards per 

pound instead of 50,400. 
3,517 ends -h 46,150 = .0762, warp weight 

without take-up (grey cloth). 
6% take-up in weaving. 
.0762 -4- .94 = .0811, total warp weight per 

woven yard (grey cloth). 
52 picks X 67" reed width X 36" 

= 3,484 yds. 

36" 

of filling per yard of grey cloth. 
3.484 -h 46,150 = .0755, total filling weight 

per woven yard (grey cloth). 
.0S11 + .0755 = .1566, total weight per 

vard. 
1.0000 -+- .1566 = 6.38 yards per lb. (grey). 



PATTERN. 
2 2 

120/2 Sea Island combed hard twist — 3,357 — = 3.517 total ends. 

40 40 

120/2 Sea Island combed hard twist, 52 picks, grey. 
17 reed; 67" reed width; 65" grey width; 39" finished width. 
62 X 52 grey count; 88 X 68 finished count. 

TARNS. 

Labor, 

waste, Twist- 
Cotton, etc. ing. 
120/2 Sea Isl'd combed H. T.; 1%" sta.; 24 hank dou. rov.. 30c. 48c. 22%c. = $1.00% 
Warp and filling Identical, 
"yards per pound, 46,150 (due to contraction). 

CLOTH COST. 

3,517 ends 120/2 Sea Island combed H. T. + 6% take-up = .0811 @ $1.00% = $ .0815 

52 picks 120/2 Sea Island combed H. T. filling = .0755 @ $1.00% = .0759 

Weaving 0338 

Expanses 0184 

$ .2096 
Selling (grey) 0040 

Mill cost (grey> $ .2136 

Yards per pound C.3S (grey). 
Ketail price $1.25 per yard. 

*-»-♦ 

/ there is a great deal of discussion 

TTWTflTTl? I UMfi BATTUE heard as to the relative values which 

UlllyUlJ LiMlU Rill IN 1J are being purchased. Without any 

question, the radical nature of the 
Practically all the sellers who fabric has made it impossible for 
handle fancy fabrics of any character many buyers to purchase with any de- 
are now offering their merchandise gre e of certainty, and while they are 
for another season. In the various usually able to distribute the fabrics 
ranges of fabrics which have been taken at a profit, nevertheless it will 
shown, ratines, or fabrics which many be readily recognized that buyers are 
would classify under this heading, are i ess 

SaSes " The ei , n » B am y ° W o" S/SE? LIKELY ™ 0BTAIN G00D VALUBS 

mentioned fabric, together with the than they have been in o+her seasons, 

selling price, will vary from a very This above result is caused through 

low figure to a very high price, and the fact that these rating fabrics are 



132 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



produced in so many different methods 
and in such widely varying construc- 
tions, making it comparatively impos- 
sible for a purchaser to compare them 
with other styles or with fabrics 
which have been handled previously. 
Many of these so-called ratine fabrics 
are almost identical with certain of 
the toweling fabrics regularly pro- 
duced and are made on a terry cloth 
loom. 

Another type of fabric is woven on 
a loom that produces somewhat sim- 
ilar results to the terry motion, but 
the loops are produced in a different 
manner by wires which are inserted 
and which hold up the yarn as the 
cloth is being woven. This process is 
very similar to that employed in mak- 
ing many styles of carpets. On both 
the above-mentioned methods jac- 
quard patterns are employed, though 
in the first process the back of the 
cloth is the reverse of the face. Va- 
rious adaptations of these two proc- 
esses have also been employed. In 
addition to the processes mentioned, 
there is a wide variety of fabrics now 
being offered which are produced from 
novelty yarns. Inasmuch as novelty 
yarns can be produced in an unlimited 
number, it naturally makes it possible 
to have a wide variety of woven fab- 
rics produced from them. Of course, 
the various kinds of loop yarns pro- 
duce results which are more nearly 
identical to those resulting from the 
terry motion, but the entire range of 
fabrics are generally known as rating. 
In addition to the methods we have 
mentioned as being used in making 
the fabrics under discussion, 

A FABRIC HAS APPEARED, 

which, while having the general char- 
acteristics noted in many ratine' fab- 
rics, is, however, produced by an en- 
tirely different method and one which 
would by many be considere \ rather 
impossible. This method, of which 
the fabric we have analyzed is a good 
example, is through the use of the 
ordinary leno motion. The crossing 
yarn is run very loosely and the meth- 
od of construction aids in producing 
the result. In many cases, this fabric 
would be considered more desirable 
than certain of the original cloths, be- 
cause the loops are not so prominent, 



the fabric is more stable and the ef- 
fect is practically as desirable from a 
selling standpoint. These various 
lines of cioths are used tor dresses, 
waists, vestings, hats, trimmings, ties, 
and any number of oilier articles, 
even being seen in draperies, cover- 
ings and other radically different 
articles. 

As previously stated, a leno weave 
is responsible for a large portion of 
the effect noted in the fabric analyzed. 
This leno weave has a crossing thread 
which crosses back and forth over 
three ground threads, being woven in 
a loose manner, in order to give the 
roughness desirable to the fabric. 
To cause an irregular appearance to 
the loose yarn there are two doups 
used in making the cloth; that is, 
there are two different motions to 
• the crossing threads. Both of the mo- 
tions are identical, but the second op- 
erates on a different pick than the 
first. Inasmuch as the crossing 
thread works in combination with 
three ground threads, the body of the 
warp is drawn in the reed three ends 
per dent. The crossing threads dc 
not operate over every three threads, 
but rather over every second three 
threads; that is, the first crossing 
thread operates over threads 1-2-3, 
while crossing thread No. 2 operates 
over threads 7-8-9. The illustration 
of the weave should make this entire- 
ly clear. We are not presenting the 
entire weave, because it repeats on 
twelve-ground threads and picks in- 
stead of the six which we have used. 
The reason why 

THE REPEAT OF THE WEAVE 

is as large as it is, is because there 
is a regular ground weave all over 
the fabric. This weave is a regular 
four-harness twill with no changes 
made because of the leno threads. 
This will be noted in the illustration 
for the warp, which is of a mottled 
character, operating for two picks on 
the face and then reversing for twc 
picks on the back of the fabric. Ona 
of the items of importance is that the 
crossing thread is on the face everj 
time it changes its position. This 
method holds the yarn in place and 
keeps the threads in their correct 
positions. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



133 



To make the result effective there 
has been used in the cloth considered 
a comparatively hue yarn for the 
ground of the cloth witL a rather 
coaise yarn for the crossing threads. 
This heavy yarn has a very small 
amount of twist inserted, for this 
gives the fabric a soft appearance 
and, in addition, is of value because 
the leno or crossing yarn has been 
mercerized before the weaving opera- 
tion. To give as good an appearance 
as possible to this yarn, it is made 
from combed stock, though of about 
as short character as can be satisfac- 
torily combed. The ground yarns are 
made from slightly better stock than 



duce such a fabric as that considered 
is to use grey yarns, with a mercer- 
ized leno yarn, and then bleach the 
fabric in the piece after it has been 
woven. The mercerization oi the yarn 
and the price which has been given 
for it are the ones which would be 
noted were it planned to have another 
party accomplish this work, a condi- 
tion which is by far the most com- 
mon, inasmuch as grey cloth mills 
very seldom have any finishing ap- 
paratus. It is usually good policy to 
use as coarse a reed as possible in 
making fabrics of this character, be- 
cause this allows much easier cross- 
ings for the leno threads, and the 




The Leno Ratine Fabric Described. 



would be used for plain cloth contain- 
ing the same sizes of yarn. This is 
not absolutely necessary, but will 
often be found desirable in such a 
fabric as that ccnsidered, because the 
increase in production more than off- 
sets the extra price which is noted 
for the better cotton. In a fabric of 
this character, the yarns form a com- 
paratively small portion of the total 
cost, oftentimes the percentage of 
labor in the fabric amounting to 
about 75 per cent of the total cost of 
making. It will thus be seen that the 
use of a cotton wherein a small per- 
centage of increase in the weave room 
production can be secured is of large 
advantage. The best method to pro- 



heavy leno yarn is less likely to be 
broken than if a fine reed were used. 
In most fabrics of this character it is 
possible for a weaver to run only one 
loom. This is necessary, because the 
doups are continually breaking, and 
as the material is comparatively ex- 
pensive it is not a good policy to al- 
low the leno yarn to stop operating 
for even a few picks, as it makes a 
second. 

COSTS AND SELLING PRICES. 

Possibly the most interesting item 
regarding the fabric considered is 
that which concerns the cost of man- 
ufacturing and the price which is being 
obtained at retail. Allowing reason- 



134 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



able items in our analysis we find 
that for the width of cioth consideied 
it shouid not cost over 2U cents lor a 
mill to produce the material; in tact, 
it is likely that it couid be produced 
for a smaller amount in quite a num- 
ber of instances. These fabrics are 
in good demand to-day, and allowing 
a high mill profit, namely 15 per cent, 
the mill's selling price should not be 
over 22 cents. Under such conditions 
this fabric should be sold by the re- 
tailer at 50 cents per yard and have 
the various sellers obtain a rate of 
profit satisfactory for the radical na- 
ture of the fabric. That this has not 
been done is readily recognized, in- 
asmuch as the cloth is not selling for 
50 cents per yard at retail, but rather 
is being offered for $1.49. It would 
seem as if it were possible for com 
verters to develop a fabric similar to 
the one analyzed, but in a slightly 
narrower width, so that it could be 
sold at no more than 39 cents per yard 
and allow a very good profit to the 
various sellers. We believe this would 
have occurred if this fabric had been 
produced earlier than it was, but 
there is a tendency among manufac- 
turers to avoid novelty materials of 
this character at the present time, for 
they believe the sale will shortly de- 
cline. This price of $1.49 per yard 
shows that someone has obtained a 
very large profit, and very likely it is 
not the manufacturer. 

THE RETAILER UNDOUBTEDLY 

is obtaining quite a little extra profit, 
but it does not seem possible that L* 
is obtaining anything like the entire 
profit which this fabric shows. There 
are very many materials being 
sold on which the retail price is 
at least three times the cost of the 
goods in a finished state, but it is sel- 
dom that the retail price is from six 
to seven times the cost of the goods 
in a finished state, as is noted on this 
cloth. The result illustrates very 
clearly what is likely to happen when 
retailers and others do not give 
enough consideration to the fabrics 
being produced in .the market and do 
not recognize the actual cloth values 
in any way. Possibly the retailer can 
obtain $1.49 per yard for this mate- 
rial, largely because tne consumer is 



often foolish where styles are being 
consideied, but there snomd be no 
legitimate reason lor such a thing 
occurring and probably retailers, 
even previous seiieis, are being 
as badly deceived regarding value as 
the consumer is. 

It may be that this fabric was im 
ported, yet it was not claimed that 
such was the case, but if it was im • 
ported, it shows that the purchaser 
has absolutely no idea regarding 
value and that the material could 
have been produced in the domestic 
market so as to be sold with large 
profit at a much more reasonable price. 
Many times fabric importers do not 
give enough consideration to the lines 
of high-class novelties whi^.h some of 
the domestic 

SELLERS ARE DEVELOPING 

These buyers will make trips to for- 
eign markets and purchase a certain 
amount of cloth which, with the duty, 
makes their purchases cost quite high 
amounts, whereas if they had useu 
half as much effort in examining the 
various lines in the domestic market 
they could have obtained just as great 
variety and oftentimes the identical 
fabric at a very much lower price. 
It is often the practice to purchase all 
the fabrics from a single seller in the 
domestic market, and while this has 
its advantages, nevertheless it does 
certainly curtail the variety which 
is obtainable and oftentimes elimi- 
nates fabrics which would help in en- 
larging the distribution of the pur- 
chaser. There have been more in- 
stances of purchasers being fooled re- 
garding values the present season 
than there ever has been in the past, 
and while there always is a certain 
amount of this taking place, neverthe- 
less the styles being purchased and 
certain other features in the situatioc 
tend to indicate that consumers will 
not continually be as easily deceiver! 
regarding fabrics as they have beei 
the nresent summer, and sellers ma? 
not he able to dispose of their mer 
chandise at the enormous advance: 
wh^h manv of them expert to obtain 
When such a fabric a^ the one con 
sidered ha<* to he produced hv a mill 
not acrmainted with the manufacture 
cf it, there must be a great deal ol 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



135 



consideration given to the analysis of 
the fabric before any definite price is 
named for any large quantity. In the 
first place, unless the labric is dupli- 
cated within a reasonable degree of 
accuracy, the result obtainc l will not 
be identical with the fabric being 
Imitated. 

The sizes of the ground yarns, both 
warp and filling, can be obtained in 
a comparatively easy manner, but 
such yarns are somewhat finer in the 
finished cloth than they are when they 
are used in producing the grey ma- 
terial. This, however, is not of great 
importance in a fabric of the charac- 
ter described, but is of interest in the 
result. The same condition applies 
to the leno yarn and, while the losses 
are likely to be somewhat greater on 
this yarn, due to the soft twibt which 
has been used and to the merceriza- 
tion process, the finer size ' 1 the fin- 
ished cloth does not affect the result 
as much as the take-up on the yarn. 

THE ENORMOUS TAKE-UP. 

Not only does the take-up affect the 
appearance of the cloth, but it also 
has much to do with the cost of the 
material which is used in producing 
it. It will be noted from our analysis 
that there has been a take-up on the 
leno yarn of practically 68 per cent, 
or, in other words, it requires about 
three yards of yarn to weave one yard 
of cloth. Many ordinary leno fabrics 
are woven with a take-up of from 20 
to 30 per cent, and a mere estimate 
of the actual take-up in weaving the 
cloth considered would be likely to 
fall far short of what the take-up 
would actually be, thus giving a much 
smaller weight of yarn to produce the 
cloth and a lower cost than should be 
noted. This fabric illustrates very 
well why it is not a good plan to size 
yarn as it stands in the finished cloth 
without considering at all the take-up 
in weaving. This yarn was 28-2 when 
used, whereas, if such a method of 
sizing the yarn had been adopted in 
assessing duties, the result obtained 
would be anplied to 10-2 yarn, rather 
than 30-2. with a lower rate of dntv 
than actually should be noted. Of 
course, this would make very little 
difference in a fabric where the 
ground yarn is as fine as it is in this 



cloth, with the leno yarn as coarse as 
that used, but the yarn sizes are not 
always relatively the same as they 
are in the cloth analyzed, and fine 
two-ply yarn is sometimes noted for 
the crossing threads. It is this large 
take-up in crossing yarn which is 
mainly responsible for the ratine or 
towelling effect. 

THIS FABRIC IS NOT STRETCHED 

like many of the materials which are 
being sold to-day, but instead, it 




Illustrating 



Mottled Appearance of 
Warp. 



shrinks a slight amount in finishing, 
which gives a better effect, yet which 
makes a few more picks in tne clotft 
than when it is woven with a corre- 
spondingly fewer number of yards re- 
turned. The shrinkage in width is 
somewhat greater than for most ordi- 
nary cloths, as this is desirable, inas- 
much as it creates somewhat more 
prominent loops. The shrinkage 
in length affects the cost to the 
purchaser, but not in very large 
amounts and not anywhere near 
so radically as is noted on some 
other fabrics which are being 



136 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



handled in quantities to-day. Mak- 
ing the fabric in the manner de- 
scribed is of a certain amount of ad- 
vantage, because the back of the clotn 
is smooth. This does not occur when 
novelty yarns are used, neither does 
it occur in a great many of the ordi- 
nary terry cloths. The crossing back 
and forth and weaving in of the leno 
threads makes a very firm fabric with 
a comparatively small number of 
threads and picks per inch and also 
when quite fine yarns are used for 
the ground cloth. Such a cloth con- 
struction would not be permissible in 
producing this character of fabric as 
ordinarily produced, for the threads 
would slip and the result would not 
be desirable. 

Practically none of the terry 
cloths of this character are made 
from yarns as fine as are used in the 
fabric considered, and if they were 
the heavy yarns would not be bound 



in sufficiently. The fabric described 
is one of the lightest appearing 
ratines which has been produced and 
the whole effect is not only a very 
good imitation of the novelty yarn or 
terry cloth styles, but it is also very 
much like an ordinary crepe, due to 
the light and irregular character of 
the cloth. The method of obtaining 
the weight of the yarns and the cloth 
is as follows: 

2,658 ends -h (60/1 X 840) = .0527. weight 

of fine warp without take-up. 
6% take-up in weaving. 
.0527 -h .94 = .0561. total weight of fine 

warp per yard of woven cloth. 
403 ends -4- (2S/2 X 840) = .0342. weight 

of heavy warp without take-up. 

68% take-up in weaving. 
.0342 -4- .32 = .1068. total weight of heavy' 

warp per yard of woven cloth. 
64 picks X 44 reed width X 36" 

= 2,816 yds. 

36" 
of filling per yard of cloth. 
2.816 -4- (65/1 X 840) = .0516, total weight 

of filling per yard of woven cloth 
.0561 + .106S + .0516 = .2145. total weight. 
1.0000 -T- .2145 = 4.66 yards per lb. (grey). 



60/1 Am. combed warp 
28/2 Am. combed warp mere. 



65/1 Am. combed filling; 64 picks. 
19 reed; 44" width in reed; 37%"-38" finished width. 
79 X 65 finished count. 




3,061 total ends. 



60/1 Am. combed; 1%" staple; 12 hank dou. rov., 
28/2 Am. combed; 1V6" staple; n% hank dou. rov\, 
65/1 Am. combed; 1 5-16" sta. ; 16 hank dou. rov. 



Cotton. 
22%c 
15 %c. 
21c. 



Labor, 
waste, 

etc. 

19 %c. 
9%c. 

18c. 



Twist- 
ing and 
mere. 

6%c. 



42 %c. 
31V4c. 
39c. 



COST. 

2.658 ends 60/1 Am. combed warp -f 6% take-up = .0561 @ 42%c. = * .0237 

403 ends 28/2 Am. combed warp + 68% take-up = .106S @ 31 %c. = .0338 

64 picks 65/1 Am. combed filling = .0516 @ 39c. = .0202 

Weaving .0935 

Expenses .0223 

$ .1936 
Selling (grey) -0035 

$ .1070 
Mill profit (15% upon fair capitalization) 0220 

Mill selling price * .2190 

Finishing , 0175 

Oonvei ter's Expenses .0325 

Total cost to converter t .2690 

Selling price to retailer ought not to be over .3250 

Retail price ought to be less than .5000 

Actual retail price $1.49 per yard, 
iarde per pound (grey) 4.66. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



137 



SPECIAL WEAVE CREPE 

We have previously analyzed and 
described certain varieties of crepe 
fabrics, but inasmuch as another ef- 
fect, which seems more or less desir- 
able, has been developed, it may be 
of service to manufacturers to de- 
scribe the material in some detail. 
The whole fancy cotton cloth industry 
is built up on ideas, and the develop- 
ing of new ones or the changing of 
old ones over to a slightly different 
form is mainly responsible for most 
of the satisfactory profits received, 
and the lack of these same ideas has 
a great deal of influence in bringing 
about losses and ultimate failures. 

Everyone knows that novelty yarn 
fabrics have been very desirable and 
that large profits have been secured 
in their manufacture and sale, often 
when the cloths contained very little 
wearing value. Many expect that the 
present season will see the height of 
the demand for such cloths, and that 
another year they will be much less 
salable, especially the fabrics of un- 
satisfactory construction. This condi- 
tion is recognized by the best sellers 
and they are avoiding such merchan- 
dise as much as possible, although 
naturally they have to handle a cer- 
tain amount in order to satisfy buy- 
ers and keep their lines as wide in 
variety as possible. These foregoing 
facts are likely to have a great influ- 
ence on the sale of crepe cloths. 

For one thing, crepes have not been 
in demand for so lon^ a time as nov- 
elty yarn cloths, thus making their 
sale an increasing one, while that of 
novelty cloths is a decreasing one. 
Then the extended use of novelty yarn 
materials, which are mostly of a very 
heavy character, is very likely to cre- 
ate an aversion to such goods, making 
lighter fabrics, of which most crepes 
are very good examples, in especially 
good demand. At present the best 
selling c'o+It? of » fnTi C v cMi-a^ter 
are crenes which have decorations of 
a novelty yarn character, the fabric 
thus constructed obtaining whatever 
advantages there are in the sale of 
these two cloths. 

Few rpalize the great variety of 
construction and adaptations whicr 



are desirable and probably necessary 
in the distribution of any such nov- 
elty cloths as voiles, ratines or crepes, 
but it can be said that the lines of 
practically every seller of such goods 
will vary to a certain extent and while 
geneial ideas are often adopted, the 
cloth constiuction, pattern or cloth 
results finished show a great many 
differences. This is done not only 
because there is a large demand for 
variety, but also because of the set 
prices which are in vogue, and other 
features. Then it is customary to 
produce in cheap materials the same 
ideas which are selling well in the 
more expensive cloths and the lower- 
ing of quality often creates many dif- 
ferent effects, the same thing being 
true regarding fabrics which are made 
in the more expensive grades. 

When any ground fabric is in de- 
mand, manufacturers can change the 
construction and readapt styles almost 
without number. This is where the 
value of an idea like that considered 
is of interest. The cloth is a crepe 
in many respects, still it has a face 
appearance something similar to a 
voile, due to the use of good two-ply 
yarn, and, in addition, has a notice- 
a^e wave appearance which is radi- 
cally different from that of ordinary 
crepes, either box loom or regular. In 
fact, the result is something like a 
Bedford cord of an extremely light 
crene construction, with the stuffer 
threads omitted. 

As is quite well known, crepe cloths 
are a special material, not only in 
regard to the yarns used in their 
making, but also as to the finishing 
processes. Crepe constructions might 
be said to be generally of a very low 
character with a comparatively few 
threads and picks per inch. This 
method of production is adonted to 
allow for the shrinkage in finishing 
which gives the cloth the result gen- 
erally noted. Of course, certain 
crenes are made with . quite a firm 
construction, but it is not the usual 
method, and when such a course is 
used, the shrinkage and aopearance is 
not that so often noted. Ordinary 
crenes of a wavy character can be 
woven on an ordinary loom with only 
one twist in the filling. Most crepes, 
however, are woven on box looms, at 



138 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



least those which are sold at the 
higher prices. Sometimes a pick and 
pick loom is used where a single pick 
of one twist of filling is inserted and 
then another pick of filling is used 
with twist inserted in the opposite 
direction from that previously used. 

Box loom crepes are also made in 
great quantities where there are two 
picks of each kind of twisted yarn 
inserted, this being caused by the fact 
that most mills are not in positions 
to use a single pick of any filling. A 
comparatively few crepes have been 
made where over two picks of a cer- 
tain kind of twist are used in succes- 



nection with the yarn? used in the 
fabric analyzed. It is necessary for 
the filling yarn to be twisted to a 
much greater extent than is ordinarily 
the case, if there is a satisfactory 
amount of cont. action, which contrac- 
tion produces the crepe effect so often 
noted. This shrinkage occurs when 
the fabric is finished and not during 
or immediately after the weaving op- 
eration. In fact, on many styles of 
crepe fabrics the contraction in weav- 
ing is not nearly so great as it is for 
many ordinary fabrics. The standard 
of twist which is inserted in yarn of 
this character will vary quite a little, 




Special Wave Crepe. 



sion, but this results in special ef- 
fects which are not usually especially 
desirable. The cloth under discussion 
was produced on a pick and pick loom, 
this being necessary because only a 
single pick of hard twist filling is 
inserted when this filling is used. 
Although in the cloth the introduction 
of these hard twist picks of 60-1 is not 
regular, it is comparatively so, and 
the picks will average to be two of 
150-2 and one of 60-1 hard twist. Un- 
der this condition out of the 90 picks 
per inch, which the cloth contains, 60 
of them will be of the two-ply yarn, 
while 30 of them will be of a hard 
twist character. 

There are a number of features 
which are worthy of mention in con- 



but it will run from 6^ to as high as 
9 or even more times the square root 
of the yarn number in turns per inch. 
The usual standard is about 7% to 8. 
One interesting feature, which is 
not apparent to most mill men until 
they attempt to make hard twist fill- 
ing, is that there is quite a large con- 
traction, the amount varying some- 
what, due to the amount of twist in- 
serted in the spinning operation. 
Thus, to have the drafts satisfactory 
in the spinning and the roving of the 
correct size to obtain any yarn size, 
the roving has to be finer than it 
otherwise would be. In many cases 
there is a contraction of at least 10 
per cent when the yarn is spinning, 
making it necessary to have the rov- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



139 



ing correspondingly finer. Hard twist 
yarn also has to be treated in order to 
make it satisfactory to weave. The 
excessive amount of twist makes the 
yarn very springy, and to weave as it 
comes from the spinning frame would 
result in the cloth being full of small 
loops and probably being entirely sec- 
onds. 

To overcome this difficulty, the 
yarn has to be steamed or handled 
in some such manner to set the twist 
and eliminate any springy tendency. 
Yarn is usually steamed on the filling 
bobbins and because most bobbins are 
likely to contain oil which has soaked 
into them or varnish or in some other 
manner to give out undesirable ele- 
ments when under high temperatures, 
it is necessary to use bobbins which 
have been specially treated so that the 
yarn will not be likely to absorb any 
■foreign matter. With some mills this 
is not so necessary as in others, but 
satisfactory results practically always 
make it imperative. One of the inter- 
esting features in connection with 
hard twist yarn is regarding the cost 
of production. In many hard twist 
yarns it is possible to use a some- 
what shorter staple than if ordinary 
yarn was to be produced. 

The change in this direction, how- 
ever, is very slight, and in many cases 
not feasible for a manufacturer to 
adopt, but the quality of the results 
has much to do with this problem. 
One reason why shorter cotton can be 
used is because of the irregular re- 
sults noted in crepe fabrics. Of 
course a shorter stanle does help 
slightly in reducing the cost of pro- 
duction, but it is of very small im- 
portance when the increased cost is 
considered due to slower production. 
As the turns per inch in a^y yarn in- 
crease the production will decrease, 
for the sneed of the spindle is ap- 
proximately stable. 

As the production decreases the la- 
bor and various other exnense items 
increase, for the production per snin- 
dle is the item of greatest imnortance 
in the making of accurate cost esti- 
mates. It is seldom that any satis- 
factory hard twist y°rn costs 
less than twice as rm'^h as for 
the same size of yarn of similar ordi- 
nary character, that is, warp yarn. 



Each mill has problems in this direc- 
tion which make results somewhat 
different, but it is one of the items of 
importance and should never be over- 
looked in any way. In connection 
with the yarns used in this cloth it 
may be well to state a few facts re- 
garding the fine two-ply yarn which 
has been used. 

A great many have a mistaken idea 
regarding the cost of yarns as the 
sizes increase. This is not true and 
is explained as follows: As an illus- 
tration 30-1 is produced over six times 
as fast as 100-1, although 100-1 is 
only three and one-third times as fine 
a size. This is mainly because the 
turns in any yarn are not regulated 
by the size, but rather by the square 
root of the size. Due to the great 
reduction in production the cost of 
the yarn increases by approximately 
the same ratio as the production de- 
creases. This is true generally when 
all yarns produced on a spinning 
frame are being compared, but when 
yarn sizes become so fine that it is 
necessary to produce them on a mule 
the difference is even more radical. 

The figures we have mentioned ap- 
ply to frame yarns, but for the 150-2 
a much greater reduction in produc- 
tion, with a radical increase in cost 
of production is noted. Of course, 
frame yarns are being successfully 
made up to about 125-1, but above this 
point mules are found necessary. The 
minute a change is made from frame 
to mule for approximately the same 
kind of yarn, there is a decided jump 
in the cost of production. We have 
considered this feature in our fabric 
cost estimates. The same thing is 
more or less true regarding the cost 
of the twisting process because the 
number of turns per inch does not in- 
crease according to the yarn size. 

Crepe cloth construction is usually 
pretty well known, but its adaptation 
in such a manner as that in the cloth 
under discussion is seldom seen. Tn 
the first piace the face of the cloth 
miv he said to he comnosed entirely 
of 150-2 yarn with a count of about 
74x60 in the finished state. On the 
back of thp c^oth and bound in at 
resrPar intervals across the fabric is 
the hard twist 60-1 filling. This yarn 
floats on the back much the same as 



140 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



in an ordinary Bedford cord, but 
naturally does not become face yarn 
at all, as in the cloth mentioned. 
When the fabric is finished this yarn, 
which is loose on the back, ccntracts 
and forces up the plain woven face 
material, thus creating waves or tucks 
as noted. One item in regard to this 
fabric is that it probably would be a 
much more satisfactory method to 
weave the cloth face down in the 
loom. This makes it necessary for 
the loom to lift much less yarn and 
saves in power and is likely to result 
in a better appearing fabric. 

This item of weaving cloths face 
down is one which is not always con- 
sidered as seriously by manufacturers 
as should be done, for while the power 
saved is often slight, it is true that a 
much better appearing fabric can 
jften be obtained. The shrinkage in 
width in this cloth is much more radi- 
cal than for most crepes, for in the 
majority of instances there is less 
than a 25 per cent shrinkage, while 
this cloth shrinks more than 30 per 
cent. There are certain objections 
which might be offered to a fabric of 
this character, the main one being 
that the loose ends on the back are 
likely to catch on any substance or 
projection which they are brought in 
contact with. In a good many cases 
this is of comparatively little impor- 
tance and does not affect the value 
of the idea. Neither does it make the 
method undesirable in other fabrics. 
Such a cloth as the one cons'dered. but 
made in stripes or cheeks of an attrac- 
tive pattern would undouMpdly be re- 
sponsible for a very satisfactory profit. 

The fabric considered is an import- 
ed article and in this connection It 
may be well to state a few facts. 
Many domestic mills are organized to 
produce large quantities of staple and 
semi-staple cloths, and fancy mills 
have been patterned after the same 
general idea. This makes it neces- 
sary for a manufacturer to obtain 
large contracts and get out cloth at 
comparatively low prices, but the 
method is of great disadvantage so 
far as fabric variety is concerned. 
With the ereat inerpase in high c'ass 
cotton fabric sale domestic manufac- 
turers are at a disadvantage, for they 
behold their number of styles increas- 



ing rapidly, together with the cost of 
production, and it is creating so much 
detail that the large organizations are 
not especially capable of handling 
them. It is absolutely certain that 
most of the manufacturers in the do- 
mestic market cannot broaden out 
very much more than they have done 
without creating a great deal of 
trouble for themselves. 

The foreign manufacturer operates 
in a much different manner. He pro- 
duces much smaller quantities of the 
various styles, and while this does 
make the cost of manufacturing com- 
paratively high, it offers onportunity 
for the display of individual effort 
which is not possi^e in anv large way 
in the domestic market. It might be 
possible to sell 50 or 100 pieces of a 
certain fabric at a price which wou'd 
return a large dividend, but because 
of its high-class character a buyer 
might not desire to purchase any 
large amount. Such fabrics are not 
suitable for most domestic manufac- 
turers and partly explains why we 
have had importations of foreign mer- 
chandise. It is not so largely a oues- 
tion of price as it is a question of 
variety and the sise of orders which 
can be handled satisfactorily by buy- 
ers. With a jobber handling mer- 
chandise large orders are, of course, 
divided into many Tarts, but there is 
a very evident tendency to distribute 
goods direct to the retailer in fancy 
lines, and it is certain that much more 
of it will have to br done if domestic 
sellers compete with handlers of for- 
eign merchandise, a large majority of 
whom adopt such methods. 

There is comparatively little inter- 
est in regard to the finishing of this 
fabric. Of course it cannot be handled 
by the majority of finishers mainly 
because it is so wide. Tt is piece-dyed 
and the steaming or boiling is respon- 
sible for the contraction and crepe ef- 
fect. Comparatively few crpne fab- 
rics are produ^pd from bleached and 
dved yarns. The reason for this is 
because the excessive amount of 
handHne: and the character of the varn 
not only make the cost of nr fj 1]f >ti n 
hie'h. hut tfp-"plon manv diffi^u't'es in 
making. When ya r n is twisted with 
a large number of tu r ns per inch it 
loses a great deal of its strength and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



141 



this condition makes it impossible to amount per yard was obtained in 

handle in a bleached and dyed condi- profit. The retail selling price is $2 

tion in most instances. per yard and while this undoubtedly 

There are certain effects which can- allows a very large rate of profit to 

not be produced in any other man- the retailer, nevertheless the amount 

ner than through the use of bleached of duty necessary and the profits of 

yarn, but manufacturers are not in- the manufacturer and other sellers 

clined to produce any quantity of make the selling price of the cloth a 

such cloths, and when it is done it is comparatively reasonable advance on 

rather hard to obtain the relative the cost of production. The rate of 

profits which are really necessary to duty for this fabric is 10 cents per 

make a satisfactory result. This fab- yard and not less ihan 40 per cent ad 

ric has been considered on a domes- valorem. Probably the amount of 

tic basis of cost production and a mill duty was quite a little in excess of 

should be able to accomplish the work 10 cents per yard. The yards per 

at the figures given if they are in a pound in the grey state are 7.17, thus 

position to manufacture wide cloth making the cloth sell at retail at ap- 

and produce yarn of the sizes and proximately $15 per pound. The 

character used. Naturally thore are method of obtaining the weights of 

but few mills in a position to do such the yarn and the weight of the cloth 

work and the selling price for the is as follows: 

cloth is probably high for such rea- 2 954 ends + (150/2 x 840) = 0469 we , 

sons. Because the cloth is made on of warp without take-up. 

a box loom which operates at a slow- 7% take-up in weaving. 

er speed and because the cloth is 046 e 9 r ~^ ov 9 e 3 n ^^i ° 4, total weight of warp 

rather wide the production in yards 60^0^x^57% -reed width x 36" 

per week is comparatively small. = 3,450 

For this reason, it is necessary for yards of fillIng 36 ( " 150/2) per yard . 

the manufacturer to obtain a much 3.450 -s- (150/2 x 840) = .0548, total weight 

larger amount of profit per yard than of 15 °/ 2 fining per yard. 

for most cloths. In this case he 30 picks x 57%" reed width x 36" 

should obtain from 2y 2 to 3 cents per 36" 

yard at least, to allow a reasonable .. yards of fining (60/1) per yard. 

profit on the cost of a plant. Inas- "g 6 T/i (6 fi°n]ng X p^Va*: 03 "' total wei * ht 

much as a hifh-class noveltv sells on ° 504 + -0548 + .0342 = .1394. total weight. 

style it is probable that a much larger 10 ( g r°ey)t 1394 = 7 ' 17 yards Der POund 

PATTERN. 
3 8 

150/2 Sea Island combed — 2,834 — = 2,954, total ends 

20 20 

150/2 Sea Island combed filling \ .. . . , , , 

60/1 Am. combed hard twist filling ( ,0> tota ' P'cks. 
Filling averages in cloth 2 picks of 150/2 and 1 pick of 60/1. 
50 reed, 57%" width in reed. 39%"-40" finished width. 
74 X 92 finished count. 

YARNS. Labor, Twist- 

-.«,„„ ,, , , . . _ Cotton, waste, etc. ing. 

150/2 Sea Island combed; 1%" staple; 30 hank dou. rov., 32c. 79%c. 16c. = $1.27% 

60/1 Am. combed; 1%" staple; 14 hank dou. rov., 19c. 29%c. = .48% 

COST. 

2.954 ends 150/2 Sea Island combed + 7% take-up = .0504 @ $1.27% = '$ .0644 

60 picks 150/2 Sea Island combed = .0548 @ 1.27% = .0700 

30 picks 60/1 Am. combed hard twist = .0342 @ 48% = 0165 

Weaving ; 603 

Expenses 0317 

$ 2429 
Selling (grey) .0065 

Mill cost (grey) $ .2494 

Mill selling price (not less than) ' 2800 

Finishing, etc 0500 

R*te of duty 40%. 

Profits and expenses of various sellers not considered. 

Retail selling price $2 per yard. 

Yards per pound 7.17 (grey). 



142 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



RICE CLOTH 



(The Best Cotton Fabric for Spring.) 

The question which has been upper- 
most in the minds of buyers of cotton 
goods during the past few weeks has 
been — What cloth can I purchase to 
take care of my distribution and be 
certain that a good profit will be se- 
cured and on which no slump is 
likely? Manufacturers have also been 
just as interested as buyers, for un- 
less some kind of a novelty style is 
in good demand, it is very probable 
that none of the desirable profits 
which are often responsible for satis- 
factory mill operation are received. 
Possibly a short explanation of the 



not at all new. Good sellers state 
positively that the best of the demand 
for present styles in cotton jacquards 
is over, and that a declining demand, 
together with smaller profits, is certain 
for the immediate future. Then, there 
are the heavy novelty yarn fabrics 
which have sold well for a number of 
years. 

In the East, where the greatest por- 
tion of distribution is noted, these 
cloths are dead or nearly so, and any 
one handling any sizable quantity is 
likely to sustain quite large losses. In 
the West such cloths are stih in de- 
mand, but their production is not es- 
pecially desirable to most manufac- 
turers. Of course, certain of the 
newer colored yarn cloths have sold 
and probably will continue to sell 




Rice Cloth. 



conditions which exist may be desir- 
able in view of the opinions of some 
sellers who are always trailers and 
who never achieve any remarkable 
success in cloth production and dis- 
tribution. 

Jacquard styles have been selling 
well and mills have quite a few orders 
for such goods, but in any case these 
styles do not have any great effect 
on the bulk of the distribution. 
Quite a portion of the jac- 
quard styles being made to-day are 
consHprpd as semi-staples and are 



well, but we are referring more par- 
ticularly to grey woven materials. 
Another thing of interest, though 
known to comparatively few sellers, 
is that Southern mills have 

KILLED THE PRODUCTION 

of heavy grey yarn ratings for most 
Northern manufacturers. 

When the demand for the heavy 
novelty yarn cloths first developed 
none of the Southern makers were 
acquainted with the yarn or cloth 
production, and so for a time prac- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSAivi 



iii 



tically no ratings were made in this 
section. Gradually, however, a 
greater amount of knowledge was ob- 
tained and more manufacturers were 
able to produce them, so that to-day 
the quotation for a Norther^ fabric 
will be about lO 1 ^ to 10 % cents per 
yard, while the same fabric will be 
sold by Southern makers at 9% to 9y 2 
cents per yard. 

This has forced quite a large share 
of the heavy grey yarn novelty cloth 
orders to be obtained by Southern 
manufacturers. There are facts of 
importance in the production of nov- 
elty materials which many Southern 
makers have not yet learned, but one 
of them which must be considered is 
that it is not a very good practice to 
make any quantities of novelty gocds 
on a declining market. Another thing 
is that it is advisable not to sell up 
one's entire production when a fabric 
looks as though it might be a large 
profit maker. A waiting game with 
moderate sales to keep looms in op- 
eration will be responsible for much 
larger profits, for looms can then be 
sold when the rate of profit is at the 
highest point. 

Another line of fabrics that has 
been desirable, and which will be in 
demand for spring, is that 

ORDINARILY KNOWN AS CREPE. 
There are certain objections to any 
big use of such cloths, although at 
present they appear as desirable as 
any other line, with the exception of 
rice cloth. For one thing they have 
never had a very long run, as con- 
sumers are apt to tire of them in a 
comparatively short time. For an- 
other thing the production of large 
quantities of crinkle effects, both 
woven and mercerized, has curtailed 
a great deal the possibilities of dis- 
tribution for crepes. 

The uncertainty regarding styles 
has made it possible for a compara- 
tively new line called rice cloths to 
be developed. They are used for the 
same purpose as the other materials 
mentioned, but they contain ideas 
which are making a very large sale 
possible and are returning especially 
attractive dividends. It may not be 
generally known outside of circles 
where style tendencies are discussed, 



but nevertheless it is a fact that 
lighter fabrics are rapidly gaining 
strength and that another year will 
again see a large demand. This does 
not necessarily mean that there will 
be as large quantities of fine plain 
materials sold as formerly, because 
this will not occur until certain ave- 
nues of distribution which have been 
closed for some time are again avail- 
able. 

In addition to being of a light char- 
acter, these rice cloths contain nov- 
elty yarn effects which are different 
from many of those sold in past years. 
The name probably developed from 
the fact that the small yarn bunches 
scattered over the fabric look some- 
thing like grains of rice. The name 
itself is of value, for to most sellers 
ratine' is more or less stale and rice 
cloth at least sounds new. Large 
quantities have already been con- 
tracted for, and more will be pur- 
chased in the near future with very 
large mill profits. For grey cloths the 
prices run from somewhat less than 
10 cents per yard to about 20 cents 
per yard, the latter price being the 
quotation for probably the most de- 
sirable cloth of this character offered. 

THE CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 

There is nothing regarding rice 
cloths which present any great diffi- 
culties in manufacturing. As yet they' 
are not being produced in Southern 
mills to any extent, partly because 
the yarns are somewhat finer than a 
good many Southern mills produce 
and partly because mills in this sec- 
tion have not been wide enough 
awake to realize the opportunity. In 
practically all cases, plain weave is 
used in the production of these 
cloths, and it is desirable to have them 
of a comparatively wide width, 40- 
inch grey being one of the big selling 
widths. The warp is an ordinary 50-1 
warp, no different than would be 
noted for any medium weight plain 
cloth containing this size and count. 
The threads per inch are compara- 
tively few in number, thus creating 
no great difficulties so far as produc- 
tion is concerned. The filling yarn 
contains the features which produce 
the novelty effect in these rice cloths. 
The more bunches or extra yarn the 



144 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



filling contains the more the cloth is 
likely to cost and to a certain extent 
the more desirable the material is 
likely to be. Because the filling is of 
a comparatively coarse character, due 
to the twisting process which has been 
used, the picks per inch are compara- 
tively few in number. Naturally, the 
fewer bunches there are in the yarn 
the finer it will be when twisted, and 
when such is the case it is sometimes 
necessary to use a greater number of 
picks per inch. It is necessary to 
have a low warp count because should 
too many threads per inch be used 
they will cover up and largely spoil 
the effect desired. On most of the 
heavy ratines the yarn sizes are rela- 
tively 4-1 or coarser, while in many 
of these rice cloths the relative yarn 
sizes are 7-1 or finer. 

THE YARN MAKING. 

Inasmuch as the warp is ordinary 
yarn, no description is needed for this 
portion of the fabric. The filling 
does, however, need quite a little at- 
tention not only because of the meth- 
od of manufacture, but also because 
of other features. In the first place, 
the filling used in these rice cloths 
is not composed of as large a num- 
ber of ends as have been used in 
many of the rating cloth3 which have 
been selling. Filling for rice cloth, 
in most instances, is a twisted yarn 
composed of only two threads and in 
which but a single twisting operation 
has been used, while in many of the 
ratings four threads were used and 
two twisting operations were neces- 
sary to obtain the result. 

There is a great deal of advantage 
in making a two-ply twisted novelty, 
because much less handling is neces- 
sary resulting in a lower cost of pro- 
duction. Often yarn of this character 
is produced on an ordinary spinning 
frame, the yarn, when completed, be- 
ing ready for the loom, with no suc- 
ceeding processes. All that is neces- 
sary for satisfactorily producing such 
yarn is a frame which contains two 
separate sets of rolls and on which 
one set of rolls can be stopped at va- 
rious intervals. This question of 
stopping the operation of the rolls is 
an important one in obtaining satis- 
factory results. If possible, they 



should be stopped irregularly, so that 
the yarn bunches in the finished re- 
sult will appear irregularly in the 
cloth and not be likely to form what 
are called patterns. 

It is sometimes a good policy to 
use a box loom when weaving cloth 
of this character, as it tends to elimi- 
nate some of the foregoing difficul- 
ties. There is one thing, however, 
regarding the 

PRODUCTION OF NOVELTY YARN 
with only two threads, and this is that 
the result is not bound closely enough 
to make it suitable for use as warp. 
The loose yarn will slip to a greater 
or less extent on the ground yarn, 
but not to a great enough extent to 
make the use impractical, that is, if 
enough twist has been inserted. 
When the correct amount of twist is 
used, the ground yarn will contract 
somewhat in twisting, and in doing 
this when the bunch is being formed 
will run the extra thread down on 
the ground yarn, thus binding the 
bunch much more firmly than would 
otherwise be possible. 

Special twisters have been made to 
perform this operation regularly, but 
with the correct yarn sizes and the 
right amount of twist it is hardly 
necessary for a fabric such as that 
described. The yarn which forms 
the nub or bunch, namely 36.5-1, is 
delivered approximately two and 
one-half times as fast as the ground 
yarn which is 50-1. There is, how- 
ever, quite a large take-up in the 
twisting operation even upon the 
ground yarn, making the resulting 
yarn size much coarser than would 
be expected. With the take-ups 
which are noted, namely 27 per cent 
upon the 50-1 ground and 71 per cent 
upon the 36.5-1 loose yarn, the rela- 
tive yarn sizes will be 36.5-1 for the 
50-1 ground yarn and 10.58C-1 for the 
36.5-1 loose yarn. 

Through the use of the method for 
obtaining a two-ply yarn size when 
yarns of different sizes are twisted 
together, namely, dividing their prod- 
uct by their sum, we obtain a result- 
ing novelty yarn size of 8.20-1. or a 
yarn containing 6,888 yards per pound. 
With this as a basis, it ir a compara- 
tively easy matter to obiain the cost 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



14b 



per pound of the novelty yarn, but it 
its absolutely certain tuat tne majority 
of manufacturers do not adopt any 
accurate method for obtaining their 
novelty yarn costs, and for this rea- 
son they do not know the profits they 
are obtaining nor anything like an 
accurate cost for their goodo, although 
it might be said that when such fab- 
rics are in demand the profit is usually 
high enough to place them on the 
right side of the transaction. 

THE YARN COST. 

It will be noted that we have ob- 
tained the cost of the yarns used in 
making this novelty result, using regu- 
lar 50-1 warp, a method which prob- 
ably the majority of mills would be 
forced to adopt. Under this condi- 
tion the cost to the mill when econ- 
omy is practiced is 37% cents per 
pound for 50-1 and 23% cents per 
pound for 36.5-1. Inasmuch as the 
novelty yarn contains 6,888 y?.rds per 
pound, the use of the yarn costs, to- 
gether with the relative sizes which 
they are when the take-up in twisting 
is considered, will give the cost o* the 
various yarns used in making a 
pound of novelty filling. This gives 
8.43 cents as the cost of the 50-1 and 
18.21 cents as the cost of 36.5-1 in a 
pound of novelty yarn. The total cost 
of material per pound for the novelty 
yarn is therefore 26.64 cents, the re- 
sist be'.ig much nearer the price of 
36.5-1 than for 50-1, because a much 
larger portion of the weight is of the' 
heavier yarn. 

TMs cost of material is not the cost 
of tbp finished yam, because there is 
tbp 7 abor and exnenses which are 
noted in the twisting process, and in 
addition there is a certain amount of 
exnense noted for experimentation 
when certain of these nc* jlty yarns 
a r e produced. Tn a varn like that 
used in the samrde this experimenta- 
tion charsre shot^d not be very la^ge 
b Q cau«e the quantities of the mate- 
rial nppdpd for any mode-atp size of 
order is oir'te large, and besides there 
is no great difficulty, if a manufac- 
turer knows his business, in being 
aWe to dunlicate yarn such as is used, 
at least so far as practical purposes 
are concerned. The yarn production 
in pounds per week will not be nearly 



as large as the actual size when 
twisted would indicate, because the 
turns per inch are very much greater 
than in a normal yarn of the size 
noted. 

THE POSSIBLE PROFITS. 

Due to unfamiliarity with all kinds 
of novelty yarn fabrics, buyers have 
often been willing to pay prices for 
such cloths as to return some extra- 
ordinary profits. We are absolutely 
certain that in a good many cases 
manufacturers have not realized the 
rate of profit which they were ob- 
taining, but this fabric shows a con- 
dition which exists to-day generally 
upon rice cloths. The reason why 
they do not know the rate of profit 
secured is because they do not inves- 
tigate the cost of production in an 
accurate enough manner, the trouble 
being mainly because of the shrink- 
ages and various other details which 
affect 'he cost on the novelty filling. 
This cloth could be produced by an 
economical mill for the price which 
we have figured, namely 12.36 cents 
per yard, but in the estimates which 
we have given regarding profits we 
have allowed a somewhat higher cost 
than this, so that there could be no 
question regarding results. 

The selling price to-day for the fab- 
ric, which we have analyzed is 20 
cents per yard. This allows a net 
profit to the mill of over 7 cents per 
yard, for a fabric which cortains only 
34 picks per inch. This, it will be rec- 
ognized, is a condition which seMom 
exists for manufacturers who can nro- 
duce a hierh-elass fabric in nuantit'es. 
The small number of picks per inch 
makes it possible for ouite a large 
number of vards of cloth to be pro- 
duced per loom per week. Ordinarily 
fancy mills attempt to obtain a net 
profit of about $2 per loom per week, 
or, in other wo^ds, $100 per loom per 
year, which will return a net profit 
of in the vicinitv of 10 per cent for 
fancy goods. This cloth, instead of 
showing the ordinary $2 ner loom per 
week, hows at least $18.75 per loom 
per weak, or about $937.50 per loom 
per rear. 

Tt must be remembered that this 
cloth 's not produced upon a fancy 
loom, but rather upon a plain loom 



146 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSAR? 



which can make grey cloth 40 inches 
wide. Under these conditions the 
capitalization per loom -will not be as 
high as for many mills containing 
fancy looms. The obtaining of a prolit 
of over $900 per year per loom makes 
it possible for a rate of profit to be 
secured of approximately 117 per cent. 
If this result was being secured on 
very small quantities of cloth and by 
only one or two sellers no attention 
would be given to the matter, but it 
is being secured on large quantities 
of cloth and by quite a number of sell- 
ers. Not only is this profit being se- 
cured on this fabric which is selling 
for 20 cents per yard, but a similar, 
or approximately similar rate of profit 
is being secured on the various qual- 
ities of rice cloths which are selling 
down to the price of 10 cents per yard. 
We do not claim that this high profit 
is a usual one, because it is not, but 
the situation is worth discussing from 
a mill standpoint, and because a large 
sale is going to take place it is de- 
sirable from a buyer's standpoint. It 
will be noted that we have given ap- 
proximate selling prices for the con- 
verter and retailer when sold direct. 
Much of this cloth will not be sold in 
this matter and undoubtedly some of 
the best grades will command a price 
of at least $1 per yard at retail. Just 
how long conditions will remain as 
they are and these high profts be se- 
cured is questionable, but most mills 
can produce such fabrics and will not 
long remain passive when they have 
looms idle for the want of orders. 

FINISHED RESULTS. 
These fabrics are practically all 
made from grey yarns and are thpre- 
fore treated to the processes which 
are customary for grey cloths, that is, 
they are bleached and sold in the 
white state, and in other instances 
are dyed any solid color which ban- 
pens to be desirable from a buyer's 
viewpoint. At present converters are 
getting out lines of rice cloths which 
contain small printed figures or in 
which nuite a large portion of the 
ground is evident, and these a r e ex- 
pected to have a very large distribu- 
tion. Due to the fabric construction 
and method of making they are never 
mercerized. There has been no great 



attempt as yet to get fabrics out to 
sell at a price because there has been 
such a demand that mills could often 
obtain moie than their asking prices, 
in certain cases receiving 'I cents at 
least more than their asking price, 
which natuially would contain a 
rather high 

RATE OF PROFIT. 

The yarns composing these fabrics 
have not been manipulated to any 
great extent up to the present, but 
there is a certain amount of oppor- 
tunity for producing effects which 
have not been developed as yet. 
There are certain effects which can- 
not be produced when cloths are made 
from yarns such as are used in the 
fabric described. The fact that the 
material is different from what has 
formerly been sold, and the fact that 
large quantities are being made is 
sufficient to show buyers who have 
not purchased any that they are los- 
ing the chance of making large profits 
when they are available. 

Any cloth which shows a 
very high rate of profit to 
a manufacturer is likely to show 
as large, or a larger, rate of profit to 
a succeeding seller, and until com- 
petition develops more than is noted 
at present the profits will be very sat- 
isfactory. After the novelty yarn size 
has been correctly obtained there is 
no great difficulty in obtaining the 
weights of the yarns and the cost of 
the cloth. 

It is always a good policy to obtain 
the actual novelty yarn size through 
weighing and then to obtain the fig- 
ured yarn size through the use of 
take-uns and the yarns used in its 
production. Of course, it is necessary 
to obtain the dptails regarding the 
novelty yarn size in order to obtain a 
correct cost, but the knowing of cloth 
details is not only of interest to man- 
ufacturers and buyers, but oftentimes 
is of great value in obtaining desir- 
abV results. The various weights are 
obtained as follows: 

2.380 pncis -T- (BO/1 X 84<M = .0567. weight 

of BO/1 \v:irr> without take-up. 
9<* take-nn In we->vln*. 
.0507 ■*■ .SI = .0623. totnl weight of 50/1 

w-rp p^r vnrd of woven o'oth. 
4 5" reed width X 3-t picks X 36" 

= 1,530 yds. 

36" 

of filling per yard of cloth. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



147 



1,530 -h 6,888 or (8.20/1 x 840) = .2221. during recent years, and that the re- 

totai weight of novelty filling per yard duced prices would make a large sale 

.0623°+ '.2221 = .2844, total weight per possible, making such materials com- 

. ?£&• nr ... ., .„ „ ... v paratively staple in fancy goods. 

1.0000 -h .2844 = 3.52 yards per lb. (grey), _ _ 1 I 

PATTERN. 
6C/1 Am. combed warp 40 2.300 40 = 2.3S0 totnl ends. 
8.2 novelty filing, composed of 50/1 Am. combed and 36.6/1 Am. carded; 84 pick! pw inch. 

2o reed, 45" wiath in reeu, 4u" gi ey vvidtn, oo" unisned width. 
59 X 34 giey count; 62 X 34 finished count. 

YARNS. 

50/1 Am. combed warp; 1 5-16" staple; 10 hank dou. rov., 
3C.5/1 Am. carded warp; iy 8 " staple; 7% hank dou. rov., 

NOVELTY FILLING. 
I end 50/1 ground yarn, take-up in twisting 27%. 
t end 36.5/1 nub or loose varn, take-up in twisting 71%. 
Kelative yarn sizes in novelty (50/1 = 36.5/1) (36.5/1 = 10.685/1). 
36.5 X 10.585 

= 8.20, novelty size when twisted (or 6,S8S yards per lb.) 

36.5 + 10.585 

6.S88 X 37tec. 





Labor, 






Cotton. 


waste, etc. 






21c. 


1 6 y 2 c 


= 


37 tec. 


15 tec. 


8c. 


= 


23 tec. 



36te X 840 
6.888 X 23tec. 



8.43c. cost of 50/1 in lb. of novelty yarn. 



IS. 21c. cost of 36 5/1 in lb. of novelty yarn. 



10.580 X MO 



26.64c. total cost of material per lb. of novelty yarn. 
3.50c. cost of twisting, experimentation, etc. 



30.14c. total cost of novelty yarn per lb. 

CLOTH COST. 

2,380 ends 50/1 Am. combed warp + 9% take-up = .0623 <S> 37tec. 

34 picks 8.20 noveltj filling = .2221 @ 30y 3 c. 

Weaving 

Expenses 



= $ .0234 

= .066L' 

.021i 

.0093 



Selling (grey), 



Mill cost 

Mill selling price to-day (grey) . 
Cost of bleaching and finishing. 
Converter's expenses 



Cost to converter (total per yard) 

Converter's selling price to retailer (when handled direct) about 

Retail price (when handled direct) up from 

Plain weave 

Yards per pound 3.52 (grey). 

Mill profit at least $1S.75 per loom per week, or about J937.50 per loom per year. 

This gives a rate of profit of approximately 117 %. 



$ .1211 
.0025 

$ .1236 
.2000 
.0200 
.0260 

$ .2460 
.3000 
.4600 



■»« » 



TUSSAH BRCGHE 

The line of fabrics which are prob- 
ably of as great interest to buyers of 
novelty goods as any others, and on 
which quite a little anxiety has been 
created because of the raw silk mar- 
ket is that line of cloths which con- 
tain silk of various kinds. Some time 
ago we gave a description of a silk 
and cotton mixture material stating 
that the prices had declined greatly 



Various conditions have been respon- 
sible for the large use of silk and cot- 
ton cloths, but it is only recently that 
the style and the finish has developed 
to its present state. Jacquard pat- 
terns have been very desirable in all 
kinds of silk and also woolen mate- 
rials and the same condition has been 
more or less true in cotton goods. 

Inasmuch as the combination of cot- 
ton and silk results . in effects not 
possible in all cotton fabrics there is 
a very good reason why such com- 
binations should be made at present 



148 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



even if they are not so desirable at 
other times. Dress materials have 
been produced with very large pat- 
terns, and with figures not ordinarily 
seen the present spason. and the fab- 
ric we are illustrating shows one of 
the radical combination materials 
which are being used quite exten- 
sively for dresses. In ordinary sea- 
sons this pattern would be much more 
desirable for other purposes than for 
dresses, but nevertheless style is be- 
coming of such great importance to 
consumers that the cloth construc- 
tion and prices even are of less im- 
portance than formerly. 

It was relieved some time ago that 
the making of silk and cotton fabrics 
by cotton mills would not affect great- 
ly the production of 

COMBINATION MATERIALS 
in silk mills, but there has been more 
or less trouble because of this pro- 
duction and many stvles which were 
formerly made in silk mills cannot 
longer be proiuced by such manufac- 
turers because the prices are quite a 
little less, partly through the larger 
quantities made, the great economy 
practiced and the lower finishing 
costs. 

These mixture materials have built 
up a field of their own to a large ex- 
tent, which is separate from the silk 
and also from the cotton goods trade, 
but the large numher of purchases of 
such goods has eliminated a portion 
of the silk sales. At present the de- 
mand for all silk fabrics is better than 
it ever has been -in the past, but were 
it not for the silk mixture materials, 
it is entirely probable that the de- 
mand for all silk goods could not 
be supplied. Consumers' tastes have 
improved so fast that the making of 
these goods cannot be considered 
anything but a great advance in man- 
ufacture and distribution. 

There are various items of interest 
in regard to silk and cotton fabrics, 
prohahly the item of greatest inter- 
est being noted in the method of pro- 
ducing. When cotton mills go into 
the making of silk fabrics extensively 
they have to consider various produc- 
tion features or else results are not 
as satisfactory as they may be. Cot- 



ton mills have been planned to pro- 
duce cotton fabrics and the numher ot 
spindles installed for the making of 
warp and filling has been such that 
thev can take care of the loom pro- 
duction in a satisfactorv manner. 
Cotton mills have practically no facili- 
ties for 

HANDLING RAW SILK, 
and if they were to install such facili- 
ties it would be quite difficult to train 
the oneratives when they are not used 
to such materials. For this reason 
much of the silk which is used in cot- 
ton mills has to be purchased in a 
form r<=adv for use. This means that 
the filline: is purchased on ouills to 
use in the weave room shuttles, and 
that warns when stripes or silk warps 
are to be used are purchased on beams 
readv to be drawn into the harnpss. 

Through the purchase of silk there 
are a certain number of spindles 
which have been operated on cotton 
eliminated, together with the machin- 
ery which is necessary for previously 
handling the cotton stock. Unless 
great care is used much of this ma- 
chinery which formerlv operated on 
cotton yarn will he idle, and if costs 
are not considered accurately the 
results obtained from mixture goods 
will not be as satisfactorv as esti- 
mates would indicate. Under these 
conditions it is a good nlan to take 
orders for cotton yarn at cost, or at 
a small profit rather than to allow the 
machinery to remain idle, or else it 
is a good plan to organize a new com- 
panv and have nothing only weaving 
machinprv or machinery for prepar- 
ing varn for weaving machinery in the 
mill. 

Few dompstic manufacturers have 
adopted this latter po'icv. and 
naturallv, have bepn comnellpd to sell 
yarns or lPt thpir machinprv stand 
idle. Keeping all the machinery In 
opprat'on or making the organization 
balance is one of the most important 
featurps in fancy cloth making and is 
one of the fundampntals which is 
respopsihle for success or failure. 
Certain mills which have sold a good 
many silk and cotton fabrics have 
taken orders for these cloths at a 
good profit and sold up all their spin- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



149 



ning machinery available at cost. In 
some cases mills handling silk filling 
have installed 

SILK QUILLING FRAMES, 

and have purchased their silk on 
spools, and a very few purchase silk 
skeins. There is no great advantage 
in cost in purchasing silk on spools 
rather than on quills, because silk 
throwing mills are not anxious to sell 
silk in this manner, inasmuch as they 
have spooling machinery and are just 
as anxious to keep their machinery 
balanced as cottcn mills are. 

The advantage of having silk quill- 
ing machinery is, however, in the 
smaller percentage of loss from bad 
quills, and in being able to handle the 
silk as desired, often on somewhat 
larger quills than silk mills are used 
to selling it on. This is especially 
true on the heavier sizes of silk such 
as Tussah and similar grades rather 
than on the finer sizes such as are 
used in the lighter silk mixed cloths. 

Many manufacturers who have 
never had any experience with silk 
cloths have been prejudiced against 
attempting their manufacture, believ- 
ing that a great deal of trouble will 
arise, and that the costs of produc- 
tion will not be as low as are indi- 
cated from selling prices. For vari- 
ous reasons their ideas are mistaken 
ones. In the first place when all silk 
warps are used and the operatives 
become familiar with silk yarn it is 
possible to start up warps much 
quicker and have much less loss than 
when all cotton is used. Another 
thing is that the percentage of pro- 
duction is in a large majority of in- 
stances quite a little higher than when 
all cotton goods are being made. 

This is partly because the silk is 

MORE REGULAR THAN COTTON, 
and also stronger and fewer break- 
ages occur to stop the looms. For 
similar styles of goods it is practi- 
cally always possible to operate as 
many looms when silk is used as 
when cotton is used, and this makes 
the cost of weaving, together with ex- 
penses, at least no more than when 
the same number of pick cloths of 
cotton are being produced. There are 



certain features regarding the pur- 
chasing of silk which have to be con- 
sidered very carefully. Cotton mill 
managers are familiar with cotton, 
but they are not so familiar with the 
technical features of cotton, and are 
many of them almost ignorant regard- 
ing silk. 

Due to the affinity of silk for water 
it used to be a custom with some silk 
sellers to weight up the silk with this 
material before it was sold for cotton 
mill use. In thi3 manner, many man- 
ufacturers were forced to pay a large 
amount per pound and receive a much 
larger percentage of water than they 
naturally should. There are some 
sellers who never adopted this policy, 
but when low quotations were form- 
erly named, it was very likely that 
such methods had been adopted. This 
is one reason why manufacturers 
should do business with silk houses 
who have reputations of the highest 
class. 

It is also true that there is a great 
variation in the yardage received in 
various sizes of silk. Silk manufac- 
turers are many of them accustomed 
to making tests, or having them made 
at a conditioning house, which will 
determine accurately the number of 
yards which their silk purchases will 
average, but this is not noted in cot- 
ton establishments, partly because 
they have no facilities, and partly 
because their purchases of silk are 
often likely to be in small quan- 
tities when compared with the pur- 
chases of silk mills. For the above 
reason it is always a good plan for a 
cotton cloth maker to size his silk as 
accurately as possible with an ordi- 
nary yarn reel, and then when esti- 
mating his cloth weight to allow a 
lower yardage for the silk than it ac- 
tually contains as a protection against 
silk variation. 

This has been done in the fabric 
which has been analyzed, a lower 
yardage being given than the silk ac- 
tually sizes. This yardage has been 
used in the cloth estimates as 55,000 
per pound. It is also possible to quill 
silk of as heavy size as that men- 
tioned on ordinary cotton quills, and 
in this manner a much larger percent- 



150 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



age of production is obtained than 
when small silk quills are used. It 
often makes it possible for more 
looms per weaver to be operated, and 
it is claimed that in some mills more 
looms are operated than on the same 
kind of all cotton goods. 

An interesting feature in this con- 
nection is noted from the development 
during recent years in the making of 
these cloths. Possibly about ten years 
ago the greatest number of looms per 
weaver on silk filling cloths such as 
that analyzed, was four. Gradually 
this number was increased to five, and 
soon afterward weavers were given 



of many fancy dobby patterns. In 
a single cloth such as that consid- 
ered, there are only two positions 
which the warp or filling can have, 
that is, it can be either on the face 
or back, but it must be either one or 
the other, and not both. This fabric 
is of interest because it is necessary 
to have two warps made up of iden- 
tical yarn. 

This is because of the weave used, 
for of the three threads which form 
the ground weave of the fabric, one 
of them has a much greater take-up 
than the other two, which are drawn 
in together and operate as one. 




Tussah Broche 



six looms with very little loss in pro- 
duction. Without doubt, six looms 
could have been operated much earlier 
than they were, but it was not at- 
tempted because of unfamiliarity with 
silk. 

To anyone not familiar with manu- 
facturing the most 

INTERESTING FEATURE 
of a fancy cloth, such as that consid- 
ered is the weave, and for this reason 
it may be well to give a short descrip- 
tion regarding this item. In the first 
place it may be well to state that the 
actual making of many of these so- 
called fancy jacquard weaves, in 
which silk filling is used, is a much 
more simple process than the making 



This will be noted from the analysis 
which we have given. Due to the 
weave there will be three threads 
drawn in each dent of the reed 
throughout the entire cloth, instead 
of the two threads so often noted. The 
first, prorpss in makine a pattprn. snoh 
as that illustrated, is to make a cloth 
sketch exactly as it will appear when 
the fabric is woven. 

Often this cloth sketch is made by 
the styler in the employ of the buyer, 
while at other times the sketches are 
produced by parties who do nothing 
else, and sometimes the sketches are 
produced at the mill from ideas given 
by buyers or obtained from other ma- 
terials. It is not always possible in a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



n\ 



cloth sketch, which has heen 
painted, to introduce some of 
the features which may be 
desirable in the cloth pattern, but 
usually the idea can be worked out 
so as to be satisfactory. When this 
cloth sketch has been completed, it 
is ruled up into divisions to correspond 
with the fabric construction. This 
is explained as follows: A 400- jac- 
quard head contains 50 rows of hooks, 
with eight hooks in a row, making a 
total of 400 hooks. These hooks are 
connected to harness cords and are 
placed in a board on the loom which 
contains small holes in regular order 
in the number decided when the loom 
is installed. 

If a cloth is desired in which only 
360 hooks of the 400 are to be used, 
then there will be of the 50 rows of 
hooks in the total machine, only 45 in 
use. The five remaining rows of 
hooks, which are not in use, will not 
have any threads drawn in them 
and will remain idle. In this case 
given above the design or cloth sketch 
will be ruled up into 45 equal parts. 
When this has been done the correct 
design paper to use will be ascer- 
tained. For a 400-machine with 
eight hooks in a row there must be 
a design or point paper with eight 
squares in it in one direction used. 
The squares in the other direction, or 
filling, will correspond to the cloth 
count when finished, and for the cloth 
in question the paper would be 8 by 
5, which is the nearest size. 

When the size of the design paper 
or point paper, as it is often called, 
is ascertained the cloth sketch is 
transferred to the larger paper, plac- 
ing upon this paper only the outlines 
of the various figures so as to appear 
in the best manner possible. When 
the outlines have been drawn the 
weave is painted in. This is a 

TEDIOUS PROCEEDING 

in a good many cases, but it is not 
especially difficult for many styles of 
fabrics. It may be well to mention, 
however, that it is the small details 
which are carefully worked out in the 
making of designs which produce de- 
sirable results. We have often seen 



designs, which would have otherwise 
been attractive, entirely spoiled be- 
cause enough care had not been used 
in transferring the patterns or in 
painting the weave. 

When the weave has been entirely 
painted in, the design is given to the 
card cutter, who cuts the weave on 
the cards as indicated, a single pick 
across the design being represented 
by a single card. When a hole is 
punched in the card it allows the 
needle at the top of the jacquard 
frame to remain in place, and will 
cause the thread in such hook to be 
lifted, whereas if no hole is cut the 
needle will be pushed back, and the 
hook will remain down with the filling 
or shuttle passing above the warp 
thread. When the cards are all cut, 
one for each pick in the design, they 
are taken and laced together, some- 
times by hand, but more often by ma- 
chine, a machine which acts in a sim- 
ilar manner to an ordinary sewing 
machine. When this process has been 
completed the cards are placed on the 
loom and are in a condition to weave 
the cloth. The entire process is very 
simple, but the multiplicity of details 
often confuses those who are not 
familiar with manufacturing proc- 
esses. 

Most of the patterns in silk and cot- 
ton goods are made with the silk fig- 
ure on the 

FACE OF THE CLOTH. 
When silk filling is used this means 
that filling float patterns are em- 
ployed extensively, and when silk 
warp is used that warp effects pre- 
dominate. Of course in certain in- 
stances, both warp and filling combi- 
nations are used in order to produce 
certain effects, but the above state- 
ment refers to the majority of styles. 
One of the conditions which is causing 
a great deal of difficulty in the making 
of silk and cotton fabrics is that the 
price of silk has advanced radically 
during recent months. When cotton 
manufacturers developed styles for 
next spring's use they were able to 
obtain silk at much lower quotations 
than they are at present, and buyers 
expected to obtain cloth at the quo- 
tations which were made on the orig- 



LB2 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



inal orders, but this has not 
been possible, and advances have 
been necessary, so much so that many 
lines have been eliminated or made 
much less desirable from a buyer's 
standpoint. 

The finishing of silk and cotton 
goods is one of the items which has 
been responsible for the enormously 
increased sale. The styles which were 
produced a few years ago would hard- 
ly be taken as the same construction 
with the finish which is applied to- 
day. When combination materials are 
bleached it must be done by a process 
which will not harm either fibre, and 
it is impossible to use the ordinary 
lime bleach which is generally used in 
all cotton establishments. Another 
item of interest is in regard to the 
silk yarn which has been used. All 
kinds of silk contain a greater or 
less proportion of gum when in their 
raw state, and the boiling and bleach- 
ing processes used in finishing elim- 
inate quite a large portion of this 
gum. 

SILK FINISHERS 

are likely to replace a portion of this 
gum when they finish silk cloths, but 
on most of the combination materials 
this is not done, and is responsible for 
the greater yardage of silk per pound 
when the cloth is sold than when the 
cloth is woven; in other words, fin- 
ishers of cotton goods are not accus- 
tomed to add weighting in a similar 
manner to that employed by silk fin- 
ishers or dyers. Possibly one of the 
reasons why the silk and cotton fab- 
rics have been desirable to buyers 
has been because of the variety which 
could be obtained in the finishing of 
the cloth. Due to the character of the 
material used, namely, cotton and silk, 
it is possible to dye the cloth any solid 
color and in addition it is possible to 
dye the cotton a certain color and 
allow the silk yarn in the material to 
remain white. 



Some finishers are more successful 
in obtaining clear whites than others, 
but nevertheless results can be ob- 
tained which are commercially satis- 
factory. In addition to the above, it 
is possible to dye the cotton yarn in 
the fabric one color and to dye the 
silk yarn in the fabric another dis- 
tinctly different color. This has been 
done in the fabric which has been 
analyzed, and makes it possible to 
show up the figure much more effec- 
tively. The various finishing methods 
make it possible for a converter or 
buyer to offer a greater variety of re- 
sults even though the grey cloths 
were all identical. Consumers de- 
mand more variety than ever before 
and combination materials have been 
partly responsible for supplying this 
GREATER VARIETY. 
In obtaining the correct weights in 
a fabric of this character, it is nec- 
essary to obtain accurately the take- 
ups on the various warps. Only ex- 
perience can determine what size of 
silk is correct to use for any silk yarn, 
although the use of a somewhat 
coarser size than the yarn actually 
is will give a certain amount of pro- 
tection. When the finished yarn sizes 
are obtained accurately, and their 
probable grey sizes estimated, it is 
easy enough to obtain the weights of 
the yarns used and the weight of the 
woven fabric. The process is as fol- 
lows: 

2,152 ends -=- (30/1 X 840) = .0S54. weight 

of 30/1 ground warp without take-up. 
3% take-up in weaving. 
.0854 -5- .97 = . OSS 1 . total weight per woven 

yard of 30/1 giouml warp. 
1,116 ends -=- (30/1 X S40) = .0443. weight 

of 30/1 top warp without take-up. 
S% take-up in we: vir.g. 
.0443 -4- .92 = .04S2. tot.il weight per 

woven \; rd of 30/1 top warp. 
74 picks X 26V4" reed width X 36" 

— — = 1.961 

36" 

yards of firing per woven vard. 
1.961 -4- 55.000 yards per lb. (silk) = .0357. 

total weight of silk per woven vard. 
.0881 + .04s:: + .0357 = .1720. total weight 

per woven vard. 
1.0000 -+- .1720 — 6.82 yds. per lb. (grey). 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



153 



PATTERN. 

30/1 Am. carded warp 2 2,152 Beam 1. 

2 2 

80/1 Am. caided warp — 1 — = 1,116 Beam 2. 

10 10 

1,07(1 X S,26S total ends. 

31;/38 2-tbread Tuscan bilk. 74 picks. 

41 need, 26%" width in teed, 25%-^6" grey width, 25%" finished width 
123 X 73 finished count. 

YARN. 

Labor, 
Cotton. waste, etc. 
?0/3 Am carded warp; l'/, " staple; hank dou. rov., 14c. 6y 2 c. = $ .20% 

32/38 2 -thread Tussah siik, on quills ready for loom = 2.35 

COST. 

2 1 r> 2 ends- S0/1 Am. carded warp -4- 3% take up = .0SS1 @ $ .30% •= $ .0269 

J. 116 ends 3U/1 Am. carded warp + 8% take-up = .0482 @ .30% = .0147 

74 picks 32/3S 2-tbread Tussah silk = .0357 @ 2.35 = .0839 

Weaving 013'. 

Kxpenses 0182 

$ .1571 
Selling (grey) 0032 

$ .1603 

Mil) selling price to-day fabout) 1775 

Cost of dyeing, finishing, etc 0300 

l.cnverter s expenses 0225 

Price to jobber 2750 

P. ice to retailer 3250 

Pi k.e to consumer 4600 

i ards per pcund 5 £2 (grey). 



WOVEN SEERSUCKER STRIPE 

One line of fabrics which has not 
been in very large demand for a num- 
ber of years past, but which recently 
has been selling in large quantities, 
is that line ordinarily known as seer- 
suckers. It must not be supposed 
that these cloths do not have a more 
or less regular distribution, but as is 
the case with other materials, there 
are certain times when the demand is 
much larger than usual. Most of 
such fabrics are desirable for many 
uses such as dresses, waists, rompers, 
children's garments and various other 
purposes. Generally they are firm 
fabrics and will return quite a 
large amount of value, inasmuch as 
they are woven with comparatively 
coarse yarns and are of heavy weight. 

ONE OF THE GREAT ADVANTAGES 
of these fabrics is that they do not 
have to be ironed similar to most 
other materials after they have been 
washed. The nature of the cloth per- 
mits this process to be dispensed with, 
and therefore makes the material 
suitable for many uses where washing 
can be accomplished but where there 
is little opportunity for any ironing 



process. There are two distinct class- 
es of woven seersucker materials. 
First, that class which is made from 
carded yarns, and, in the ma- 
jority of instances, contains more or 
less colored yarn, and second, that 
class of fabrics which is woven from 
grey yarns and may be produc- 
ed from either carded or combed 
stock and sold in the white state or 
may be piece dyed. 

Of course, it is possible to produce 
the first class of fabrics mentioned 
from combed stock, but, due to com- 
petition in price and various other 
features, it is seldom done. Without 
question, the second class of fabrics 
returns much more value than the 
first class, but it has often happened 
that the style of this class of materials 
has been somewhat lacking, due to the 
absence of color. To-day this is not 
so necessary, inasmuch as colors fast 
to bleaching can be used, although up 
to the present few of such fabrics 
have been made. The 

NOTICEABLE FEATURE 
of these seersucker fabrics is the 
crinkled appearance of a portion of 
the cloth. This crinkled portion Is, 
in all the fabrics we have mentioned, 
a woven one, will not pull out and 



154 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



might be said to be permanent. The 
degree of crinkle will vary in differ- 
ent fabrics, depending upon the cloth 
construction and certain features in 
making. The effect is produced in the 
following manner: In ordinary fabric 
weaving the beam upon which the 
warp yarn is placed is held quite 
tightly, either through weights or in 
some other manner. This beam is let 
off either mechanically or through 
friction, so that as the reed forces the 
picks into the cloth, enough yarn is 
pulled off to allow for the weaving of 
the fabric. 

This above condition is noted upon 
one of the beams used in making a 
seersucker fabric, and is the portion 
of the warp in which there is no 
crinkle. For the crinkle portion, an 
extra beam is necessary, and there is 
very little weight used upon such 
beam, so that as the reed forces the 
picks into the cloth it also pulls down 



without the use of extra yarn, but they 
are not likely to be so satisfactory as 
wnere extra yarn is used. Not only 
does the extra yarn cause more frictiou 
with a greater yarn let-off, but it also 
makes that portion of the fabric 
where the crinkle is produced more 
prominent, due to 

ITS HEAVIER CHARACTER. 

In our analysis we have given two 
different layouts for the warp pat- 
terns, the first one being that which 
relates to the different colors and 
their arrangement in the cloth. The 
second is the method of placing the 
yarn on the beam. The ground beam 
contains both white and colored yarn, 
for the take-ups on these ground 
yarns are identical. The second beam 
contains the crinkle yarn, upon which 
there is a much greater take-up. With 
these two layouts there should be no 
great difficulty in determining just 




Woven Seersucker Stripe. 



a certain amount of yarn, which extra 
yarn creates the crinkle in the fabric. 
There are other reasons why the 
crinkle is formed, one of them being 
the fact that extra yarn is used in 
the stripe where the crinkle is made. 
This extra yarn causes greater fric- 
tion and makes the effect more prom- 
inent. 
Crinkle effects can be produced 



the method which is used in making 
the cloth pattern. 

In addition to the layouts as given, 
we are presenting the fabric weave 
as it appears in the cloth. It will be 
noted that certain threads weave dif- 
ferently than others. In some In- 
stances a basket weave is used, in 
others a plain weave, while in still 
other instances the threads weave as 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



155 



plain, with the exception that instead 
of a single thread there are two along- 
side wnich work identical. Under- 
neath the design we have given the 
reeding plan, which indicates the 
number of threads to be drawn 
in each dent in Uie reed. It will be 
noted that where the threads weave 
otherwise than the ordinary plain 
weave they are drawn lour threads in 
a dent. The obtaining of desirable 
results in many varieties of clotn is 
partly due to the correct placing of 
the threads in the reed. It often hap- 
pens that through 

A CORRECT METHOD 
satin stripes can be woven from the 
same beam as ground threads of a 
plain character and at other times in- 
correct reeding will cause a great 
deal of trouble in cloth making. 

Sometimes, the percentage of pro- 
duction will be unreasonably low, just 
because enough attention has not 
been given to this feature of cloth 
planning. In drawing in a fabric of 
the character analyzed, it is possible 
to use two methods, the first where a 
single thread is drawn 111 every heddle, 
even though some of them work the 
same as those alongside. The second 
method is where two threads are 
drawn in the same heddle whenever 
they operate in the same manner. 
This latter method is the one gener- 
ally employed, although in a certain 
few instances it nas Deen found more 
desirable to use the first method. 
One reason why the second method is 
better is because it decreases the 
number of heddles necessary and al- 
lows more space for the threads or 
harnesses to operate as the cloth is 
being woven. When this method is 
taken it is, however, possible for 
single threads to weave in the heddles 
wnere tnere snouio be two threads 
being used. 

Without doubt the sale of woven 
crinkle effects would have been much 
larger than it has been; in fact, it is 
believed that the sale would have 
been very much larger than it ever 
has in the past, Were it not for the 
fact that many somewhat similar ef- 
fects have been produced during the 
last two years by other methods than 
weaving. Inasmuch as many consider 



this second class of fabrics on the 
same basis as the ones previously 
mentioned, it may be well to give a 
short description regarding them and 
their methods of making. These lat- 
ter materials are not produced by the 
weaving process, that is, 

THE CRINKLE EFFECT 

is not produced in such manner. 
Most manuiacturers and ■ practically 
all converters and finishers are fa- 
miliar with the fact that the mer- 
cerization process will cause quite a 
large cloth shrinkage if it is used and 
the fabric not held out tightly. 

It is upon this contraction that the 
printed crinkle effects are obtained. 
Upon certain portions of the fabric, 
by methods somewhat similar to the 
ordinary ones used in making printed 
patterns, is placed a solution of caus- 
tic soda. This solution causes the 
fabric to shrink radically where it is 
applied, and when this shrinkage 
occurs it causes the remainder of the 
fabric to crinkle up and makes the 
effects which are not used so exten- 
sively. On this style of fabric vari- 
ous printed patterns can be placed in 
different colors, and the large sale 
has been possible because the fab- 
rics are desirable, not only because 
of style but also because of a com- 
paratively low price. 

Finishers who handle fabrics of 
this character demand a 25 per cent 
working loss, which is about the ex- 
treme amount of shrinkage that 
mercerization is likely to cause, but 
it has been found that on most lines 
of these cloths the loss to a converter 
because of shrinkage will be about 
18 per cent, though in some few in- 
stances it has run as high as 20 per 
cent. This loss in shrinkage is a se- 
rious matter to the converter and 
must be accurately known if a correct 
cloth price be obtained. When a fab- 
ric loses in length anywhere from a 
fifth to a sixth it naturally makes the 
value of the material just that 
amount greater than it previously 
was. for it increases the number of 
picks per inch the relative amount 
named. 

The fabric analyzed, and which, as 
sta + ^d nrpvionslv, is a woven efFoot *«* 
produced in large quantities regularly. 



156 



A COTTON FABRICS QLOSSAEY 



The retail price is 15 cents per yard, 
thus allowing the regular distribution 
prices to be noted. It is seldom that 
retailers can purchase such a fabric 
at less than 10% cents per yard, and 
it is almost impossible for jobbers to 
force retailers to pay over 11 cents 
per yard for this sort of fabric. The 
commission house price on the cloth 
is about 9*4 cents per yard. Retail 
prices show a much smaller advance 
over the cost of production on fabrics 
of this character than they do on most 
other lines of fancy fabrics. This is 
because the materials are produced in 
large quantities, making it possible 
for satisfactory returns to be obtained 
because of large quantities sole rather 
than high profit through the sale of 
small amounts. 

One of the great advantages in a 
mill producing a fabric of the char- 
acter described is that a great va- 
riety of results can be obtained, even 
though the cloth construction does 
not vary widely. In all these cloths 
the construction is identical, so far 
as the count in the ground cloth is 
concerned, although there is a small 
variation in warp count, due to the 
different arrangement of crinkle 
stripes. The effects are obtained 
through the color arrangements and 
the different spacings and arrange- 
ments of crinkle stripes and not 
through the variation in yarn size 
which Is necessary in other styles of 
fancy fabrics made from grey yarns. 

One of the features which has been 
of decided advantage in the produc- 
tion of printed crinkle effects is that 
there has been a great variety of re- 
sults possible, due to printed patterns 
and different arrangements of stripes. 
While different effects are possible in 
greater or less amount on many styles 
of plain fabrics it is not often that the 
variety possible is as grpat as is noted 
on the printed crinkle materials. 
Sellers all desire to 

PURCHASE LARGE AMOUNTS 
of 1 ground fabric, for in this manuPT 
they can obtain very low prices, but 
unless the ground cloth can be fin- 
ished in mauv attractive wavs which 
ire in demand at the time, it is not 
Always a good policy to make large 
purchases. 



In the majority of instances the 
yarns used in the making of woven 
crinkle effects, where colors are used, 
are in the vicinity of 30-1 warp and 
40-1 to 45-1 filling. Of course, there 
are some finer lines than that men- 
tioned produced, but their sale is 
comparatively small when the total 
distribution is considered. One ofl 
the great objections to all fabrics 
which are made from bleached and 
dyed yarns is that their appearance 
is not so regular as cloths which have 
been produced from grey yarns and 
then are afterward finished or dyed. 
The picks in fabrics woven from 
bleached and dyed yarns are not 
worked into their positions so smooth- 
ly as those which are finished after 
being woven, and often the reed 
marks show in such a prominent way 
that much of the desirable fabric ef- 
fect is lost. 

It is true that some styles of grey 
yarn fabrics show reed marks after 
they have been finished, but the num- 
ber is so small in comparison to fab- 
rics made of bleached yarn, that it is 
not worth while considering them. It 
is believed that manufacturers could 
have done much more with crinkle 
effects produced from grey yarns and 
with a certain amount of fast color 
used in their construction than they 
have done. Profits are often quite 
large through t^e adoption of methods 
not in general use and makers should 
allow no opportunities to slip past 
without making the most of them. 
Possibly one of the greatest advan- 
tages in making these 

CLOTHS FROM GREY YARNS 
Is that which is noted in most other 
styles of fabrics, and is that fine grey 
yarns can be handled much more sat- 
isfactorily and at a much smaller 
relative cost than bleached yarns of 
the same character. In the majority 
of instances it is not possible for col- 
ored yarn mills to handle yarns much 
finer than 50-1, while this is a com- 
paratively low count for many grey 
clo^h makers. 

The d'fficulties in weaving are not 
especially prominent, but it is not 
possible for a weaver to onerate as 
many looms on constructions such as 
that analyzed, as it Is on similar 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



157 



classes of ginghams, or shirting 
stripes. The uneven tension on the 
top beam, and the fact that the 
threads are reeded quite closely in 
the dent where the crinkle is pro- 
duced is likely to cause a certain 
amount of trouble, though not of an 
especially serious nature. Whenever 
a fabric is produced which has a more 
or less staple sale, and where it is 
axpected to operate looms continu- 
ously in the production, it is a paying 



distributed unless this method is 
taken. 

It is possible to sell a certain 
amount of cloth of a staple nature 
without advertising, but this amount 
will be neither regular nor will it be 
large enough to supply the looms with 
orders. Sometimes the amounts ex 
pended for advertising purposes ap- 
pear large, but when they are dis- 
tributed over the whole cloth produc- 
tion they are often of a negligible 



DtniDIDDfilDIDiainiDDIIOailDDIIDDIIDDMDDNDIOIDIDIDGIIDiaiCI 
BnBDBD_OB*BnBQBDI^»Ban«B_aaBDDBBaOBBLJbBBQL-BOBbBDBCODBBB[_BCBa 

Dal IBDBt.BDDUtaDIILBDBDLBBDbBBDUaBDDIIBDDBi.DDIlBDhiDB- .ta.Bh.liD LL.LB M 
BDaaB_BMDUabBUBDBLBkLQkBLjUakLjL,BBUI-BBL.LB*DL~kiCaL.BLBLa LDBLBDBD 
UtUaOIDUIIDlL BUBLjfcDUaBDDBilDDBBLJDBBUDtaBDU«BDBDBbta.DBDLBBL»LBaB 
BDBDBLODB»BDBDBD»DBBDDBB DBabDBBLD h.DLABDD»Q»DBD»DDClBB DBLBQ 
DBD DBBBDDGIIDBDBDuDD. ■DLB«UDB«UUBBDDBB D.BQ • DBUh.D»Bk LOO LkL.ta* 
BOBOaDBBOaBOaOBO«OBBOOB«UOBBaOtaBOOBaOOBBOOBO*OB'DBDB*DDBDBDBQ 



proposition to advertise the fabrics 
and create a demand for them. It is 
certain that to-day there are very 
few lines which can be successfully 



quantity. In certain instances it has 
been positively proven that lower 
quality goods can be sold successfully 
when they are sufficiently advertised. 



PATTERN-COLORS. 



30/1 Am. carded warp brown 
30/1 Am. carded warp white 

80/1 Am. carded warp. Beam 1. 
JO/1 Am. carded warp. Beam 2. 



2 


121 21 
1— 112|— I 
1 2| 2| 


1 
2i 

U 


2 


6 


2] 121 
—[121—1 

.] , 21 


2 


6 


Il2 


1 1 ! 


6 



= 1.464 



40 X 

PATTERN— BEAMS. 



2,444 total ends. 



2 


1 










2 ( 


— 


28 




8 


20 




j 


6 


| 


2 

12 








6 I 



— = 1,484 Beam 1. 



= 960 Beam 2. 



40 X 

40/1 Am. carded filling, white; 60 picks. 
29 reed. 30 5-6" width in reed, 28" finished width. 
8? X 60 finished count. 

YARNS. 

30/1 Am. carded white, IMa" staple; 6 hank dou. rov.. 
30/1 Am. carded colored. iy, " staple; 6 hank dou. rov.. 
40/1 Am. carded white, 1%" staple; 8% hank dou. rov.. 



2,444 





Ijabor, 


Cotton. 


waste, etc 


13%c. 


lie. 


13 %c. 


161,4 c. 


14 %c. 


13 %c. 



980 ends 30/1 Am. carded brown 
504 ends 30/1 Am. carded white 
960 ends 30/1 Am. carded white 
60 picks 40/1 Am. carded white 

Weaving 

Expenses 



COST. 

+ 6% take-up = .0414 @ 3014c. 

+ 6% take-up = .0213 <g) 24 -M c. 

+ 29% take-up = .0537 <S) 24%c. 

= .0551 @ 28V4.C. 



24 %c 
30Vic 
28^ic 



.0126 
.0053 
0133 
.0156 
.0105 
.0138 



Finishing, etc. 
Selling 



$ .0711 
.0040 



S .0751 
.0037 



Commission price 
Jobber's price . . , 

Retail price . 

Yards per pound, 6.83. 



t .078." 
.0925 
.1050 
• 160# 



158 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



It is not an especially good policy to 
advertise goods and sell tlieni because 
they are cheaper, and contain less 
\ alue than others, but the instance 
shows how much influence advertis- 
ing has in the distribution of fabrics 
such as that considered. There is no 
great difficulty in obtaining the 
weights of the various yarns used to- 
gether with the weight of the cloth. 
The methods employed are exactly 
the same as for any ordinary fabric, 
the main item of importance being 
to obtain accurately the take-ups on 
the warp yarns. In the fabric ana- 
lyzed the take-up on the crinkle por- 
tion was 29 per cent, or 23 per cent 
more than the ground cloth. The re- 
sults are obtained as follows: 

980 ends -h (30/1 X S40) = .03S9, weight 

of brown warp without take-up. 
6% take-up in weaving. 
.0389 -*- .94 = .0414. total weight of brown 

warp per woven yard. 
504 ends -=- (30/1 X S40) = .0200, weight 

of white ground warp without take-up. 
6# take-up in weaving. 
.0200 -r .94 --= .0213, total weight of white 

ground warp per woven yard. 
960 ends ~- (30/1 X 840) = .03S1, weight of 

crinkle warp without take-up. 
29% take-up in weaving. 
.03S1 t- .71 = .0537, total weight of crinkle 

white warp. 
60 picks X 30 5-6" width in reed X 36" 

= 1,850 

36" 

.yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,850 -r- (40/1 X 840) = .0551, total weight 

of filling per yard of ciotn. 
.0414 -f .0213 + .0537 -f .0551 = .1715. 

total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -h .1715 = 5.83 yards per pound. 

♦*♦ 



IMITATION JAGQUARD BED- 
FORD CORD, 

The most interesting question at 
^resent among domestic manufactur- 
ers is in connection with the importa- 
tion of cotton cloth under the new 
tariff law. Possibly the facts in re- 
gard to this matter on one particular 
cloth may be of interest, and will show 
to a large extent just why fabrics are 
imported and what must be done if 
domestic sellers are to forestall any 
greater amount of importation 
than has been noted in the past. It 
may as well be recognized by domes- 
tic sellers now as in the future, that 



fancy fabrics have come to stay and 
that machinery and methods may as 
well be adapted to the production of 
such fabrics when a large profit is 
obtainable as when there is a greater 
amount of competition and fewer op- 
portunities for large returns. As fab- 
rics become more intricate, either be- 
cause of their composition or weave, 
it requires a greater amount of labor 
to satisfactorily produce them, and for 
this reason domestic manufacturers 
have, to a certain extent, avoided their 
production. 

It has always been the pol- 
icy to have weavers operate as 
many looms as possible, and to-day, 
if many more fancy fabrics be 
attempted, there would be a great 
deal of trouble with operatives and 
fewer looms per weaver would have 
to be run. Naturally, this would cre- 
ate a greater weaving price per yard, 
but the main difficulty would arise 
from the fact that enough weavers 
would not be available to operate the 
looms. There are what might be con- 
sidered 

RADICAL DIFFERENCES 
between the domestic and foreign 
method of producing many cloths. 
This arises from the machinery which 
is used to a large extent, although 
there are other conditions which have 
an influence. In the first place, the 
foreign manufacturer has a large per- 
centage of mule spindles in his equip- 
ment, the percentage being about 80, 
while the domestic manufacturer has 
about 80 per cent of ring spindles with 
only 20 per cent mule spindles. Be- 
cause of the above condition, it is 
possible to make soft twist yarns and 
use a comparatively short staple of 
cotton for any certain size, while in 
the domestic market, in order to get 
a satisfactory production, a longer 
staple and a higher standard of twist 
must be used. The standard for warp 
yarn composed of American cotton is 
from 3.75 to 4 times the square root 
of the yarn size in English plants, 
while in American plants the stand- 
ard is likely to be from 4.50 to 4.75 
times the square root of the size. 

The use of a short sta- 
rve, together with a lower 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



159 



standard of twist, does produce 
a soft yarn which answers satisfac- 
torily in foreign mills, where a com- 
paratively few looms per weaver are 
operated, but in domestic mills such 
yarn would not be at all desirable, in 
fact, could not be used in many in- 
stances. The various methods of mak- 
ing yarn result in fabrics of a some- 
what different character, for the for- 
eign cloth has a soft effect and a 
somewhat fuzzy nature, while the do- 
mestic cloth is more often smooth and 
clean, although of a much stronger 
character for the same size of yarn. 
For certain purposes, the hard fabric 
is desirable, but for most uses the 



amount of detail, but when handled in 
a correct manner will also insure more 
extensive profit. One oi the men con- 
sidered of the highest standing in the 
domestic market stated during the 
past week that one of the things 
which must be done in the immedi- 
ate future in domestic mills 
is to install a greater num- 
ber of jacquard looms. He 
gave as his reason the fact that fancy 
fabrics have come to stay, and that 
even though as large figures as those 
used at present are not in demand, 
nevertheless jacquard looms pro- 
duce better effects of a small charac- 
ter than dobbies. He also stated that 




Imported Jacquard Novelty. 



softer material will take a better fin- 
ish and have a much greater demand. 
Finish and style are of great impor- 
tance to-day in the sale of any cloth, 
and on a mercerized fabric, such as 
that analyzed, is of importance in pro- 
ducing attractive results. 

FOREIGN ADVANTAGE. 

The foreign manufacturer has a 
much larger proportionate supply of 
jacquard looms than the domestic 
maker, and this fact permits him to 
produce a greater number of fancy 
materials. Of course, a larger num- 
ber of jacquard looms in any plant 
will be responsible for a greater 



there are any number of domestic 
mills which have dobby looms contain- 
ing as high as twenty-five har- 
nesses which never considered 
placing patterns upon such looms 
when they used over 16 har- 
nesses, but rather adapted them to 
their jacquard machines. He said 
that although the loom speed was 
slower the percentage of pro- 
duction was often higher on 
jacquards and that the actual 
yardage obtained compared very 
favorably with that obtained 
from a dobby loom at a higher speed. 
A smaller percentage of seconds is 



160 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



obtained when similar patterns are 
made on dobby and jacquard looms 
and it is often possible to weave yaru 
satisfactorily on a jacquard which 
could not be handled at all upon a 
dobby. The fact that foreign yarns 
are not so strong as domestic partly 
explains why foreign mills contain a 
greater number of jacquard looms. 

MORE CO-OPERATION NEEDED. 

The fabric to be considered is call- 
ed a jacquard Bedford cord, but it Is 
not a Bedford cord at all, for the cords 
are merely produced through the 
introduction of heavy yarns, though 
they do appear somewhat similar to 
certain of the so-called Russian cords 
which have been sold extensively. 
They are, however, not Russian cords, 
inasmuch as they are not produced 
by a leno motion. A fabric which is 
very similar to that analyzed, with 
the exception of the weave, has been 
sold quite extensively in the domestic 
market, the price being at retail 25 
cents per yard as compared with 75 
cents per yard for the jacquard woven 
imported article. The question arises 
whether this cloth could not or should 
not have been made in the domestic 
mills rather than to have been im- 
ported and made in foreign plants. It 
is a fact that converters are much in 
advance of domestic manufacturers in 
regard to style. Many of them would 
like to obtain a much greater range 
of styles than they do at present and 
would like to have many ideas worked 
out which domestic mills absolutely 
refuse to attempt. The method which 
has been used by domestic makers, 
namely that of quantity production, 
has warded off a large amount of prog- 
ress in the making of fancy styles 
which might have been noted were a 
little more co-operation shown. It 
probably would be said that the quan- 
tity of the cloth considered which 
could be sold would be comparatively 
small. Even if this were true a large 
enough quantity could be sold to make 
a sufficient sized order for some do- 
mestic manufacturer. The 

FOREIGN MAKER 
will sell to any buyer eight 
pieces or 320 yards of any style and 



be entirely satisfied if no future orders 
are received. The domestic manufac- 
turer will produce in most instances no 
fewer than 500 pieces or 30.000 yards 
of any fancy style, though in certain 
instances the amount can be reduced 
to approximately 250 to 300 pieces. 
There is absolutely no reason why 
the domestic manufacturer should 
not make orders of much smaller size 
than are now produced. If he believes 
that 250 or 500 pieces are necessary, 
why should this number of pieces not 
be produced with the same ground 
construction and possibly ten different 
designs applied to the cloth? A fabric 
such as that analyzed could be used 
as a ground work and different figures 
applied to it so as to make a range of 
styles which could compete with the 
small orders that foreign makers will 
produce. The only extra expense 
would be the cost of the design and 
the other details necessary in con- 
nection with it. For this cloth an 
extra design could be produced for a 
total cost of less than $10, and if onl5 
1,000 yards of a pattern were produced 
this would only add one cent per yard 
to the cloth, a price which we feel 
certain many converters would be 
willing to pay if they could get the 
work done. Naturally, a greater de- 
signing force would have to be em- 
ployed, but this is of small moment 
when the obtaining of a sufficient 
number of orders to run the plant in 
full is considered. Why should a 
fabric be imported when it can be 
produced and sold in a finished state 
at approximately 30 cents per yard 
with the foreign seller obtaining 42- 
y% cents per yard? Domestic makers 

MUST WAKE UP 
if they expect to hold the business 
which they have had in the past A 
difference of 12M: cents per yard In 
favor of domestic makers, and still 
have foreign sellers obtain the busi- 
ness, shows that there is something 
radically wrong either with the meth- 
ods used for selling, in the style 
used in the fabric, or else the cloth 
appears 12% cents better than a 
domestic fabric of a similar character. 
There may be some difference be- 
tween a domestic production and a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



161 



foreign production such as that con- 
sidered, but it is not 12% cents per 
yard in any case. There is no reason 
why jacquard styles should not have 
been applied to the plain corded fab- 
rics which have been sold for some 
time in the domestic market, and it is . 
believed that the reticence of domestic 
manufacturers has been mainly re- 
sponsible for the cloth importation. 
Of course, it may be that most of the 
jacquard looms in the domestic mar- 
ket have been busy at a good profit 
and that this has allowed foreign 
fabrics to be sold, but from obser- 
vation in other years, this condition 
has little influence, because jacquard 
looms have been idle and fabrics 
which they could produce have been 
imported at the same time. Style is 
of much more importance than for- 
merly, it being largely weave or fin- 
ish, and these two features must be 
watched carefully by domestic pro- 
ducers. 

A very poorly constructed fab- 
ric which contains an attractive 
pattern or is finished well will some- 
times sell in competition with a better 
made cloth upon which a poor design 
or an unattractive finish is used. 
There has been altogether too much 
emphasis placed upon ordinary fabrics 
in the domestic market and not 
enough importance attached to the 
making of attractive patterns. The 
domestic manufacturer thinks only of 
quantity production, and this influ- 
ences him in the making of designs as 
well as in the actual cloth production, 
so that many of the unimportant de- 
tails are slighted and the result pro- 
duced when the cloth is woven is not 
nearly as desirable as it otherwise 
would be. Many domestic fabrics 
have been rendered undesirable be- 
cause enough care has not been used 
in making the design, whereas if 
quantity of production had not been so 
important the cloth would undoubt- 
edly have been sold in quite sizable 
quantities. 

There are a number of features in 
regard to the fabric under discussion 
which are worthy of mention. 
In the first place the ground cloth 
has been so constructed that it is 



quite firm and will give desirable serv- 
ice. The ground weave is not plain, 
but it is a three-harness twill, with the 
warp weaving on the face for two 
picks and on the back for one pick. 
Through this construction a larger 
number of picks per inch are possible 
and this causes the filling to cover up 
almost entirely the cords in the cloth 
and making a much better effect than 
would otherwise be possible. The fill- 
ing passes over the cords two picks 
out of every three and the ground 
weave in the cloth makes it possible 
to bind down the filling as it comes 
over the cord and creates a clean 
effect which is not possible when a 
plain ground weave is used. 
It will be noted that the 
jacquard figure is cut off just 
before the cord is reached and this 
creates a better effect and in no way 
detracts from the general appearance 
of the fabric. We do not consider 
that the pattern which is used on 
this cloth is especially attractive for 
dress goods, but nevertheless the idea 
is ingenious and could be used with 
somewhat better results if other styles 
of figures were employed. The high 
ground construction and the weave 
which is used would also make it 
possible for other effects, both warp 
and filling, to be introduced, and inas- 
much as the ground fabric is selling 
quite well in the domestic market it 
would seem desirable for domestic 
manufacturers to attempt styles of 
somewhat similar character. Most 

FOREIGN FABRICS 
are of a wide nature, especially the 
crepes and ratines which have been 
selling recently, but these fabrics are 
of narrow construction, name- 
ly 28 inches in the finish- 
ed state and could be pro- 
duced by almost any mill in which 
jacquards are available in the do- 
mestic market. It might be mentioned 
that the cords are six-ply yarn in- 
stead of being coarser ply which are 
often used in domestic fabrics of a 
somewhat similar character. The use 
of a heavy ply yarn in this instance 
probably creates a smoother effect 
and a more regular width of cord, 
and for this reason is desirable; in 



162 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



fact, the whole fabric shows that in- 
telligence has been used in its pro- 
duction. Most domestic sellers know 
that cords of this character have been 
desirable, but few of them have at- 
tempted to make a cloth of as good 
quality as that considered. The better 
constructed a fabric of this character 
is the finer will be its appearance and 
the effect more like that of a Russian 
cord. There is not one buyer in a 
hundred who would know or care 
whether this cord was made by a leno 
motion or in some other manner, be- 
cause it looks ju3t about as well as 
it would if it were made by the leno 
attachment. It is also probable that a 
cord produced in a manner similar to 
that in the cloth analyzed is more 
satisfactory than a Russian cord, In- 
asmuch as it is not so hard and com- 
bines better with the whole cloth ap- 
pearance. The making of designs for 
fabrics of this character Is a 

VERY SIMPLE PROCESS, 

and can be accomplished in a com- 
paratively short time. In some cases 
it is necessary to paint in the ground 
weave entirely if a design paper is not 
available which has the weave upon It, 
and in a fabric like the sample the 
use of cords makes it almost always 
necessary. If there be a much higher 
tie-up in the machine than is used in 
the cloth it is a good plan to watch 
the places where the jacquard hooks 
are to be cast out, and usually it is a 
good plan to cast them out where the 
cloth count is the lowest. In regard 
to the manufacturer's profit, it is a 
good thing to base this upon the num- 
ber of picks which the cloth contains 
or the actual yardage which is produc- 
ed. To compare a cloth of 114 picks 
per inch with one which contains 72 
picks per inch is not justifiable, in- 
asmuch as a greater amount of profit 
should be obtained for the cloth con- 
taining the larger amount of picks per 
inch. 

In order to obtain a satisfactory 
gain it would probably be necessary 
for a manufacturer to obtain at least 
3 cents per yard profit, as this amount 



would allow somewhat less than $3 
per loom per week to be received, and 
would return a profit of only about 12 
per cent upon the capital necessary 
to produce such material. The price 
for finishing a fabric of this character 
is not especially high in the domestic 
market, and for many such styles the 
price would be from 1V 2 to 1% cents 
per yard. The 

EXPENSES OF A CONVERTER 

in selling are higher than for the 
more staple materials, but in any 
case, they do not add enough to the 
cost of the materials to make the 
sale of it prohibitive when compared 
to the imported material. Without 
doubt a domestic fabric of approxi- 
mately the same character as that 
considered could be sold at retail in 
the domestic market for about 45 
cents per yard, although we have 
mentioned 50 cents as the retail sell- 
ing price in the fabric analysis. Al- 
lowing a very good rate of profit to 
the different sellers, the domestic 
price of 30 cents or less compares 
favorably with the price in England 
of about 21 y 2 cents. It may be well 
to note that the yarns are finer in the 
cloth in a finished state than they are 
when spun. The warp yarn sizes 
about 44-1, whereas probably 40-1 was 
used originally. The same condition 
is noted in regard to the other yarns, 
and the filling which probably was 
35-1 when spun sizes somewhat over 
37-1 in the finished material. We have 
used Egyptian cotton in our estimate 
of yarn costs for the filling, inasmuch 
as this cotton gives somewhat better 
results, although domestic makers 
have avoided its use recently in their 
fabrics which are to be piece mercer- 
ized. 

Such fabri s as those analyzed 
should not be imported, but rather 
made in the domestic market, and un- 
less care be exercised there will be 
a great deal more of such cloth im- 
ported than there has been in the 
past. It is up to manufacturers to 
see that this does not occur. The 
method of obtaining cloth and yarn 
weights is as follows: 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



163 



1,980 ends -+- (40/1 X 840) = .0589, weight 

of 40/1 warp without take-up. 
9% take-up in weaving. 
.058;' -? .91 = .0647, total weight of 40/1 

warp per woven yard. 
294 finds -+- (26/6 X 840) = .0808, weight 

of 26/6 warp without take-up. 
2% take-up in weaving. 
.0808 -f- .98. = .0824, total weight of 26/6 

warp per woven yard. 
80 ends -4- (40/2 X 840) = .0048, weight 

of 40/2 warp without take-up. 



40/1 Am. combed colored. 
26/6 Am. carded 



6% take-up in weaving. 

.0048 h- .94 = .0051, total weight of 40/2 

warp per woven yard. 
114 picks X 31%" X 36" 

= 3,562.5 yards of 

36" 

filling per yard of cloth. 
3,562.5 -h (35/1 X 840) = .1212. total 

weight of 35/1 per woven yard. 
.0647 + .0824 + .0051 4- .1212 = .2734. 

total weight per yard. 
1.0000 H- .2734 = 3.66 yards per pound. 



40/2 Am combed 







PATTERN. 




1 2 




20 


8 


20 


1 1 
1 2 1 


| 20 










1 20 | 



1,980 
294 



B 1 
B2 



35/1 Eg. combed filling; 114 picks. 
42 reed, 31V width in reed, 28" finished. 
s4 X 114 all over count. 



98 X 



2,354 total ends. 



Cotton. 
16 Vfcc. 
15c. 
16%c. 
22c. 



Labor, waste. 

dyeing, etc. 

34%c. 

9%c. 

14%c. 

11%C. 



4 0/1 Am. combed; 1%" staple; 8 hank dou. rov., 

26/6 Am. carded; lVm" staple; 6%, hank dou. rov., 

40/2 Am. combed; lVs" staple; 8 hank dou. rov., 

35/1 Eg. combed; 1%" staple; 8 hank dou. rov., 

COST. 

1,980 ends 40/1 Am. combed warp + 9% take-up = .0C47 @ 50%c. 

294 ends 26/6 Am. carded warp + 2% take-up = .0824 10 24%c. 

80 enus 40/2 Am. combed warp + b% take-up = .0051 © 30%c. 

114 picks 35/1 Eg. combed filling ....= .1212 <w 33 Vfec. 

Weaving 

Expenses 



50 %c. 
24 %c. 
30 %c. 
33V4C. 



.0329 
.0204 
.0016 
.0406 
.0306 
.0293 



Jacquard cards 
Selling (grey) . . 



1554 
0031 



1585 
0032 



Mill cost 

Mill selling price (about).. 
Bleaching, mercerizing, etc. 
Converter's expenses 



.1617 
.1925 
.0175 
.0250 



Converter's cost $ .2350 

Converter's selling price (about) .3000 

When sold direct, retail price should not be over .5000 

Yards per pound 3.66. 
Details regarding imported cloth: 

Selling price in England (about)... 27.5c. per yard 

Rate of duty Z0%. 

Selling price of importer in United States 42.5c. per yard 

Selling price of retailer 75c. per yard 

♦ ♦ » . 



AN IDEA OF VALUE 

Probably the one feature in cotton 
cloth making and selling which is 
largely responsible for satisfactory 
profits is uie use of ideas which are 
stylish and new, that is, ones which 
are somewhat different from those 
the majority of makers are producing. 
Such results may be obtained through 
a change in cloth construction or the 
application of a different finish. The 
process does not necessarily mean 
that the cost of making or finishing 



will be higher; in fact, it has quite 
often happened that more desirable 
effects are obtained at a lower cost, 
though, because of domestic producing 
methods, a change to a higher count 
is often more necessary than a 
change to a lower count, with the re- 
sult of increasing cost. The fact that 
prices are watched so carefully is very 
detrimental to the best result being 
obtained, and many times the con- 
struction which appears well is cut 
down to such an extent that the origi- 
nal effect is well-nigh lost. 

It would be far better if sellers of 



164 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



exclusive fabrics would use the cloth 
construction which they find will pro- 
duce the best result regardless of its 
cost, within reasonable limits, and let 
others adopt the practices which are 
so generally noted. A better profit 
would ultimately be secured, and in 
addition a reputation for quality 
would be built p, a process which is 
especially difficult to-day. How many 
are mere, even among cloth makers, 
who realize the small difference in 
cost which there is between a good 
article and a poor one of the same 
character? Usually it is a question 
of a little better stock, a little better 
yarn, a few more threads or picks per 
inch or an arrangement of fabric pat- 
tern in a more artistic manner, all of 
which changes are immaterial in ' 
many cloths when the prices to con- 
sumers are considered. 



can be adopted with success by do- 
mestic producers. 

One of the most certain features in 
the market at present is that crepes 
and crepe effects will be the best, or 
at least one of the best, sellers for the 
coming spring and summer. Many of 
such effects have been made and sold, 
not only in plain shades and in printed 
patterns, but aiso decorated with vari- 
ous kinds of stripes and checks. The 
light character of the majority of 
crepe cloths is of advantage in many 
ways, allowing soft, clinging garments 
to be produced, and making strong 
contrasts possible in the fabric con- 
struction. To produce the desirable 
materials, comparatively fine yarns 
are necessary, and in order to allow 
sufficient shrinkage, which produces 
the crepe effect, a rather low cloth 
count is employed. Fine yarns and a 



A Novelty Fabric of Unusual Interest Showing Jacquard Weave on Crepe 

Cloth. 



It is undoubtedly true that a good 
many foreign manufacturers have a 
certain amount of advantage over do- 
mestic producers, in& miucn as they 
are not bound to such an extent to the 
set price limit, and in addition their 
methods of production admit of a 

GREATER VARIATION 
in production. Under these conditions 
it may be well to consider a fabric 
which contains a number of ideas that 



small number of threads Of picks per 
inch make woven figures undesirable, 
and very few are employed on crepes 
except on stripes or on portions of the 
cloth which are unlike the ground. 

Jacquard figures have been selling 
extensively, but no one. so far as .we 
know in the domestic market has pro- 
duced a desirable crepe cloth which 
has jacquard figures woven upon it. 
That this can be done successfully is 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



166 



shown by the fabric analyzed, but a 
great deal of ingenuity is necessary in 
order to make such effects practical. 
In the first place the woven fabric 
would appear to many as being a dou- 
ble cloth, but this is not the case. The 
weave which has been employed in 
the ground fabric should be evident 
from an examination of the illustration 
that we present, which is one repeat 
of the ground weave, so far as the 
number of picks in the weave is con- 
cerned. The cloth is woven on a box 
loom and contains two picks of hard 
twist face yarn and two picks of mer- 
cerized yarn, which in the ground fab- 
ric show only on the back of the 
cloth. On the 

HARD TWIST PICKS 

the weave is entirely plain, except 
where the figure is being produced, 
while on the mercerized yarn an eight- 
harness warp satin weave is employed. 

There is this point to be noted, how- 
ever, and it is that the warp depres- 
sion, when the mercerized picks are 
inserted, occurs on the same threads 
as it does on the hard twist pick, and 
allows the heavy mercerized yarn to 
slip in behind the hard twist face yarn 
and be noticeable only on the back of 
the cloth. This can be seen easily 
from an examination of the ground 
weave. Only through this method 
would it be possible for the face of 
the cloth to appear so free from mer- 
cerized yarn. A good many manufac- 
turers would not use a correct weave 
on the back yarn, and satisfactory re- 
sults would not be obtained. Com- 
paratively few domestic cotton cloth 
makers have any equipment of jac- 
quard box looms, and some of those 
who do would not use such looms on 
jacquard box loom work, but it would 
be of advantage if they kept in more 
careful touch with styles, and brought 
out as desirable effects as the one 
considered. 

That this fabric can be sold at 62% 
cents per yard by an importer and at 
$1.50 per yard by a retailer, when it 
can be made and sold at a very much 
lower price by the domestic manufac- 
turer, shows clearly that the domes- 
tic manufacturer lacks very much to 
being the unqualified success which 
he should be in the making of novelty 



materials. A large item in the suc- 
cess of any producer of any material 
is to get out new ideas in advance of 
one's competitor. Wearing value is 
of greater importance in staple line, 
but it is largely style which is re- 
sponsible for satisfactory profits on 
fancies. In certain kinds of silk fab- 
rics what are called blister effects are 
now selling especially well, though at 
comparatively high prices, and while 
there has been none of these effects 
produced entirely from cotton yarns, 
nevertheless the cloth analyzed shows 
an effect of this character. 

The hard twist of the face yarn 
causes the cloth to shrink quite a 
little when it is finished, though not 
to so great an extent as if the heavy 
back yarn were not present. Where 
the 

MERCERIZED YARN 
creates the figures on the face of the 
cloth this shrinkage causes a slight 
curvature, and raises the figure some- 
what. With a double cloth construc- 
tion similar to that considered, 
we believe that blister effects 
could be produced which would be 
very attractive and entirely different 
from the fabrics now being offered, 
and because of the present style ought 
to be sold extensively. Of course, the 
cost of production would be high, but 
nearly always profits warrant the pro- 
cedure if care is used in making the 
weave correctly. The trouble has 
been that the quantity of production 
demanded by a domestic maker has 
affected design work as well as fab- 
rics, and the fine points which cause 
a fabric to be desirable or otherwise 
are often overlooked. 

To make the blisters or figures ap- 
pear more prominent on the cloth con- 
sidered, the hard twist filling is al- 
lowed to float on the back of the cloth, 
and this fact allows the hard twist 
yam to shrink up to a greater extent, 
inasmuch as it is not held so tightly 
by being bound into the fabric. A 
great deal of ingenuity has been used 
in making the design in addition to 
the points mentioned, for both the 
heavy and light yarns are combined 
in such a manner that there are no 
streaks in the fabric when the weave 
changes occur. A portion of the 
weave inside of the figure is somewhat 



166 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



similar to an ordinary basket weave, 
but it has been manipulated in such a 
manner that the heavy and light yarns 
do not appear radically different when 
inserted by the box motion. The tact 
that the mercerized yarn absorbs a 
somewhat greater amount of color 
than the hard twist yarn, tha 
method of producing the figure and 
effects are well worth the attention 
on the part of the manufacturers. 
Taken all together, we believe that 
there are very few plants where 
a fabric of this character would be so 
satisfactorily worked out. 

There are certain features in the 
making of 

HIGH-CLASS FABRICS 

which must be considered carefully if 
the correct profit for each cloth is to 
be secured. Take the cloth under 
consideration as an example. There 
are 124 picks per inch in the cloth, in 
a finished state, and while a manu- 
facturer would realize it, nevertheless 
there are many others who would not 
consider the fact that this cloth would 
be produced at a very slow rate of 
speed. This is partly because the 
loom operates at a much slower speed 
than many dobby looms, and also be- 
cause of the larger number of picks 
per inch. When the yards produced 
are small, the weaving price per yard 
will increase, and the expenses per 
vard will also advance a relative 
amount. This, of course, should be 
noted when the cost of the goods is 
being secured, but the same items 
should be considered in ascertaining 
the amount of profit per yard whicb 
would bfe satisfactory. 

It is not correct to expect to ob- 
tain the same amount of profit per 
yard for a fabric such as that analyzed 
with 124 picks per inch as it is for, a 
fabric similar to the ordinary jacquard 
shirtings which may contain some- 
where in the vicinity of 80 picks. The 
profit per yard* should be dependent to 
a large extent upon the yards which 
the loom produces, though there are 
other features which would have an 
influence. In this cloth we have con- 
sidered that the jacquard cards are 
included in the item mentioned as ex- 
penses. The number of cards which 
are employed, the amount of cloth 



which they weave and other features 
have an influence on the cost of this 
item, but for a similar fabric produced 
in a domestic plant the cost of the 
jacquard cards would add an amount 
of approximately one-half a cent per 
yard. This occurs because there are 
quite a number of cards necessary to 
produce the design, a fact which is 
not noticed in most domestic ■ cotton 
fabrics. 

In order to secure a satisfactory 
profit upon the capital required tc 
produce these goods, and to make it 
worth while to develop ideas which 
are new, the profit per yard necessary 
would be from three and one-half to 
four cents a yard. A good many 

DOMESTIC MANUFACTURERS 

figure to make about $2 a loom 
per week on their dobbies and 
some of their jacquard work when 
the demand is not especially pressing, 
and a greater amount should be se- 
cured from the production of cloths 
such as described. 

The yarns used in the making of 
this fabric do not warrant any large 
amount of description, but they are of 
some interest. The warp yarn, if pro- 
duced in a domestic plant, would be 
made of about one and one-quarter 
inch staple, and it would be all of the 
same character, both selvages and the 
main portion of the warp. Many for- 
eign fabrics and some domestic, espe- 
cially where dyed and bleached yarns 
are used, have a certain kind of yarn 
for their selvages, no variation being 
made when the construction of the 
cloth is changed. Foreign manufac- 
turers undoubtedly would use a short- 
er staple of cotton than that men- 
tioned, but we have considered in our 
analysis the fabric as it would be pro- 
duced in a domestic plant. The hard 
twist filling is somewhat similar to the 
yarn employed in ordinary crepes, the 
standard of twist varying from six and 
one-half to eight and one-half times 
the square root of the yarn number. 
It is often necessary to use a little 
finer size of roving for a certain 
size of yarn than would be the case 
if hard twist were not being pro- 
duced. 

In many cases we have seen yarns 
shrink approximately 10 per cent in 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



167 



the spinning process, when extra twist 
was applied. In order to satisfa torily 
use this hard twist yarn in the weav- 
ing operation it must be steamed or 
heated in a like manner in order to 
set the twist and eliminate the kink- 
ing. The mercerized yarn is similai 
to any yarn of this character. We 
have considered that the stock used 
was Egyptian, inasmuch as this pro 
duces somewhat better results. Two- 
ply yarn has been used because the 
fabric is not piece-mercerized, but 
rather the yarn is mercerized before 
being woven, and in most instances 
it is not practical to mercerize soft 
twist single yarn, although it has 
been done to an extent. The 
mercerized two-ply yarn undoubtedly 
will cause the fabric figures to fray 
less than if a mercerized single yarn 
was used. 

THE CLOTH CONSTRUCTION 
and results produced are of greatest 
interest to cloth makers and those 
who develop constructions, but to a 
distributor who does not understand 
these figures it probably is true that 
the selling prices are of greater inter- 
est. To one who does not consider 
the matter carefully the price in the 
foreign market and the price in the 
domestic market would seem to pre- 
clude any possibility of the cloth being 
sold by an importer. Note that this 
cloth could be made and sold by a firm 
which sells direct to the retailer, at 
about 34 cents per yard, while the 
price in the foreign market would be 
from 35 to 37 cents per yard. Under 
domestic schedules for selling, the 
cloth could be sold so as to retail at 
about 50 cents per yard, while if it is 
imported it cannot be sold at less than 
$1 per yard, or in this vicinity. This 
same condition is noted on a great 
many cloths which are imported and 
sold to-day, and when their costs of 
production are compared there is a 
decided advantage in favor of domes- 
tic producers. 

The fact that fabrics are sold shows 
that other features often have a great- 
er influence than the cost of produc- 
tion. Perhaps, the reason why this 
cloth can be sold is because there are 
new Ideas involved which domestic 
producers have not yet adopted. It 



probably is not true that the quantity 
sold is so small that it would be of 
little interest to domestic producers, 
in other words, the fabric style has 
made the sale possible, or else the 
buyer has not been fully enough ac- 
quainted with what domestic pro- 
ducers can supply. Very many of the 
fabrics which have been imported are 
importel because they show desirable 
features rather than because they can 
be sold at a lower cost than will be 
observed in a domestic plant. The 
only way domestic sellers can prohibit 
the importation of a good many cloths 
is to get busy and produce attractive 
ideas just as quickly as foreign sellers. 
In addition, there is one point which 




Weave Plan. 

should be mentioned, and this is that 
domestic sellers do not acquaint buy- 
ers with the styles which they can 
produce in a general manner. 

Foreign selling conditions make 
this problem somewhat easier than 
it is in the domestic market, be- 
sides the production of fancy fabrics 
is an elder business, and the styles 
which various mills can produce are 
better known, but there should be 
some method by which buyers will 
become more familiar with the styles 
which domestic mills can produce. 
Domestic buyers depend to a great 



168 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 

extent upon the cloth broker as to mestic fabrics, and often identical 

where a cloth can be obtained, but this fabrics are being sold, both imported 

method has its failings, though it must and domestic, whereas if a domestic 

be said it is not due to inability upon seller had been closer to buyers, and 

the part of the cloth broker, but ratner tne y nad been more familiar with his 

a lack of knowledge on the part of the styles, the importation of the cloth 

buyer, inasmuch as foreign fabrics are would not have been possible. The 

Dften purchased when they could be method of obtaining the yarn weights 

obtained at a lower price from a do- and f ne weight of the cloth is as fol- 

mestic seller. lows: 

As long as there is a difference in 3,192 ends -s- (50/1 x 840) = .0760 weight 

selling price in favor of domestic man- 10 °£ ^-^"Im^* 

ufacturers, and this appears to be the .0760 -h .9 = .0844, total weight of warp per 

general condition upon many of the 62 ^ s n x y fi d 2-3 - reed width x 36" 

fabrics which we have investigated, it = i,963 

would seem as if domestic sellers „„,.,». . «„, „,? 6 " „ ..,, 

,, . . _~ . , yards of filling per yard. 

would make a greater ettort to pro- 1,963 -h (840 x 45/1) = .0519, weight of 
duce the exclusive styles which for- . h * rd ^^L fil ' ,n ?- ... ,„.. . . . , 

. 11 j. ■,. . •■. j. 1,963 -i (840 X 26/2) = .1798 weight of 

eign sellers manage to distribute. mercerized fining. 

There undoubtedly has been a great ° 844 + 0519 + .1798 = .3161, total weight 

amount of progress in the style of do- lm $£ y -£ rd 3i6i = 3.16 yards per pound. 

PATTERN. 
2 2 

50/1 Am. combed warp — 3,128 — = 3,192 total ends. 

16 16 

45/1 Am. combed filling, hard twist 2 ),,.,., ... 

26/2 Eg. combed filling, mercerized 2 i xii total P Ick& 

50 reed, 31 2-3" width In reed, 27%" finished width. 
115 X 124 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton. waste, etc. 

50/1 Am. combed warp; 1%" staple; 10 hank dou. rov., 19V&C 16c. = 35 %c. 

45/1 Am. combed, H. T. ; 1%" staple; 10 hank dou. rov., 17c. 21c. = 38c. 

26/2 Eg. combed; 1%" staple; 5% hank dou. rov., 22c. 19%c. = 41V6c. 

COST. 

8,192 ends 60/1 Am. combed warp + 10% take-up = .0844 @ 35%c. = $ .0300 

62 picks 45/1 Am. combed filling, hard twist = .0519 @ 3Sc. = .0197 

62 picks 26/2 Eg. combed filling, mercerized = .1798 @ 41%c. = .0746 

Weaving .0376 

Expenses .0360 

j .1979 
Selling (grey) !o040 

Total mill cost (grey) $ .2019 

Mill selling price (about) $ .2400 

Bleaching, finishing, etc .0250 

Converters expenses .0225 

Converters total cost $ .2875 

Converters selling price (about) .3400 

Retailers selling price .5000 

Yards per pound 3.16 (grey). 

FIGURES FOR IMPORTED FABRIC. 

English selling price (about) $ .3750 

Rate of duty 30% 

Importers selling price .6250 

Importing expenses 8% 

Retai' price $1.00 

*-^» 

QTPTDflft TTQQTTT7 ed ra P idly during the past few years, 

ollllrljlJ llOOUiJ and relates largely to the production 

of novelty fabrics which sell for com- 
A situation which has not been of paratively high prices. In this connec- 
especially great importance in the tion, it may be well to take up a few 
past, but which must be faced in the of the features which distinguish do- 
future, is the one which has develop- mestic manufacturing from that of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



1*9 



foreign countries, to a certain extent. 
In the first place, foreign makers 
usually accomplish only one part in 
the production of a finished material, 
that is, a certain manufacturer will 
have a spinning plant and produce yarn 
for the market, another will purchase 
this yarn and weave it into various 
styles of cloth, while still another will 
finish the fabric in whatever manner 
seems most desirable at the time. 
Thus the industry, or a large portion 
of it is subdivided. This method is 
more suitable when a great variety 
of cloths are to be produced, inas- 
much as it allows a greater flexibility 
in the organization and permits a 
manufacturer to go into business in a 
comparatively small way. 

With the domestic industry, condi- 
tions are largely different, inasmuch 
as many plants are entirely complete, 
making the yarn, weaving the cloth 
and finishing it. This does not apply 
to many of the grey cloth mills whose 
material is finished in a different 
plant, due to the many finishes which 
are necessary, and also because of 
the great variety of fabrics produced. 
Because of the 

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING, 

it is not so possible for a plant to be 
started in a small way, and is of de- 
cided disadvantage where novelty 
cloths are to be produced. The do- 
mestic manufacturer has used every 
effort to build up the business for 
quantity production, and while this is 
of great advantage in keeping down 
costs, it does not allow style to be- 
come of as great importance as it oth- 
erwise would. Thus, in the foreign 
market it is possible for a buyer to 
obtain as small a quantity as eight 
pieces or 320 yards of any ordinary 
fancy fabric, while it usually is not 
possible in the domestic market for a 
purchaser to secure any fewer than 
300 pieces or 18,000 yards. Possibly 
in the majority of cases the smallest 
amount of fancy cloth which a domes- 
tic manufacturer will sell is 500 pieces 
or about 30,000 yards. This state- 
ment, of course, refers to the ordi- 
nary fancy fabric known as grey 
cloth. 



That there is a large field develop- 
ing in which novelty cloths are in de- 
mand is recognized by those who han- 
dle fancy cloths, but the industry 
is so organized that there is small op- 
portunity of attempting such produc- 
tion. A buyer may be able to dis- 
tribute from 10 to 50 pieces of fancy 
cloth at almost any price which might 
be named, whereas it would be abso- 
lutely impossible for him to dispose of 
from 300 to 500 pieces, the normal 
quantity demanded by a domestic pro- 
ducer. This is one of the important 
features which must be considered in 
regard to fabric importations, 
lor quantity enters into the consider- 
ation as well as price. Then, there is 
the question of style. A good many 
purchasers desire to handle fabrics 
which they are absolutely certain oth- 
ers are not offering, and often are will- 
ing to pay a higher price to obtain 
small quantities of novelty cloth. 
Whether such cloth is better than that 
which others are offering at a relative 
price is not considered at all, but 
rather the fact that they can place 
large emphasis upon the exclusive- 
ness of the cloths they have for sale. 

One of the great reasons why this 
kind of manufacturing has not de- 
veloped in the domestic market is 
through a lack of ability in cloth mak- 
ing and styling. In order to success- 
fully produce high-class fabrics a 
great deal of ability and ingenuity are 
required, and not only this but a pro- 
ducer must be familiar to a greater or 
less extent with the various kinds of 
textile fibres and their combinations. 
Foreign manufacturers of this charac- 
ter use cotton, wool and silk freely in 
their productions, and in order to get 
the best results experience is neces- 
sary. The domestic industry has 
grown so fast that there absolutely 
is not a sufficient number of expert 
men to operate all of the present 
plants in a fairly economical manner. 
For any man who is capable of going 
into a small business, such as the 
making of high-class, exclusive fab- 
rics, there is a much larger opportu- 
nity in running some of the mills 
which are not especially successful 
to-day, and the recompense Is un- 
doubtedly greater than could be made 



i?0 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



from the operation of a small plant 
with little capital. This is 

NOT ALWAYS THE CASE, 
inasmuch as ^ertain small plants on 
novelty fabrics do make very large 
profits, but it is generally true. It is 
also a fact that anyone who makes 
novelty cloths in the domestic market 
will have to get off from the beaten 
track, and this causes fear and trem- 
bling among those who are not pos- 
sessed ot a large amount of ability 
in overcoming difficult situations. 
There is one thing certain, and this 
is that it will never be a practical 
thing to produce certain of tbe high- 
class fabrics in the domestic mills as 
they are now organized, inasmuch as 
the detail is so great that it would up- 
set the processes and cause large in- 



world for the building of small plants 
in which expensive cloths are to be 
made. We believe that this will be 
the next step in the development of 
the domestic industry, and the ones 
who successfully work out the prob- 
lem will undoubtedly obtain large re- 
wards in comparison with tbe cay;tal 
necessary for operation. The large 
plant is equipped to make staples, al- 
though there are many fancy fabrics 
which come in this classification, but 
for the new expensive materials which 
sell, especially because of style, there 
must be a new development with 
small units as a basis. 

The fabric which we are to con- 
sider, and which is illustrated by the 
garment here presented, is one of 
the cloths that can be produced in a 





Striped Tissue. 



creases in cost on other fabrics which 
are not justified. To make such a 
business successful it must be run in 
a small way, and one man must be 
in much more intimate touch with ev- 
erything in the operation of the plant 
than can ever happen in most of the 
domestic concerns. 

Judging from the industry 
as now operated, it would 
seem ps if the making of many of the 
exclusive fabrics was prohibited, and 
although this is true to an extent, 
there is every opportunity in the 



small way, but which shows quite a 

HIGH RANGE OF PROFIT 

to the maker. It is not always ex- 
pensive fabrics that contain compli- 
cated weaves, although a good many 
of them do at present. The fabric 
considered is only a plain weave 
cloth, and it is the combination of fi- 
bres and colors which makes it at- 
tractive. A short time ago, voiles 
were in good demand, enormous 
quantities having been produced, and 
although these materials were desirable 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



171 



the quantity produced was such that a 
change in demand occurred. This 
change, however, did not elim- 
inate certain of the fabrics or 
ideas which are used in the production 
of voiles, and it is likely that many 
somewhat similar fabrics will be con- 
tinually in use; in fact, prominent 
sellers predicted that voiles would be 
absolutely worthless the present year. 
Nevertheless certain mills have had 
quite a quantity of orders on these 
very cloths and undoubtedly will an- 
other season. This will occur be- 
cause the fabric seems more desirable 
than other materials for certain uses, 
and some people will not consider that 
the fabric is not especially stylish, but 
rather that it is attractive. A certain 
amount of voile cloths are being made 
in a low quality and sold at a re- 
duced price, but they represent in no 
way the fabrics which will have a 
continual demand. There are 

CERTAIN FEATURES 

in the cloth analyzed which are worth 
mentioning. The first is that the 
warp is exactly similar to that in an 
ordinary colored yarn voile cloth. 
The count is rather low, just the 
same as for a voile, and the yarns 
are made in a manner somewhat alike. 
Naturally, the use of bleached and 
dyed yarns causes a greater amount 
of labor and a higher expense than 
if a grey yarn voile were being pro- 
duced, but this is a manufacturing 
feature, and there is no great diffi- 
culty in the method of producing. Or- 
dinary voiles are of rather light 
weight, but in most instances they 
are not firm, and in certain cloths firm- 
ness is rather desirable. If any 
greater number of picks than are 
used in an ordinary voile cloth be in- 
troduced, the firmness will be in- 
creased, but the desirable open- 
work effect will be largely lost. To 
make a light-weight effect and still 
have a firm fabric there has been used 
for filling a silk yarn. This silk yarn 
makes a light fabric, but does not de- 
tract at all from the voile effect. An 
ordinary silk yarn when reeled is full 
of gum, the amount varying some- 
what, due to different conditions. Silk 
under this condition is not very lus- 



trous, although it is smooth and 
much finer than most cotton yarns. 
The luster appears when the yarn is 
boiled out and the gum either par- 
tially or wholly removed. 
In order to make the crisp 

VOILE EFFECT 

and have no luster, this fabric 
has been woven with silk which has 
not been degummed. This is not a gen- 
eral practice, but it shows how vari- 
ous fibres and ideas must be combin- 
ed in order to produce certain effects 
which seem desirable at any time. 
There is some advantage in using 
a fine silk which is not lustrous for 
filling yarns, as it allows warp stripes 
to be more prominent. In the fabric 
under discussion the colored stripes 
appear almost as if they had been 
printed, a process in which the fibres 
are entirely covered with color on the 
face. If ordinary white filling had 
been used, the colored stripe would 
have been practically half white, 
thereby creating a somewhat differ- 
ent effect, and if the filling had been 
entirely colored, one stripe would 
have been of a solid color, while the 
white stripe would have been practi- 
cally half colored. The practice of 
using a silk which is not degummed 
is sometimes adopted in making very 
light fabrics in which luster is unde- 
sirable. 

Sometimes a silk warp is used with 
cotton filling and at other times a 
cotton warp is used with a silk fill- 
ing. The fact that the silk contains 
gum gives the fabric a rather crisp 
feel, and the material is usually print- 
ed with all-over patterns of 
various kinds. Such printed pat- 
terns do not often appear well on 
heavier fabrics, and the reason why 
silk is used is to make a very light 
material with better results. We have 
explained at various times the fea- 
tures of interest in the pro- 
duction of voile cloths; that 
is, that the yarn contains a 
standard of twist much higher than 
that of ordinary yarn, a standard 
which often varies from 6% to 10 
times the square root of the yarn 
number. This extra twist causes the 
yarn to contract quite a little W*4 



172 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



makes the yardage per pound lower 
than it otherwise would be. It also 
makes the yarn much weaker than 
it normally is, and due to the large 
amount of twist, a steaming or siz- 
ing process must be adopted to elim- 
inate the kinking up of the yarn. 
Yarns which are used in voiles must 
be made of good cotton and spun well 
to give the best results. This may 
be observed through the fact that 
certain makers have had large or- 
ders for voile cloths during recent 
years, while others have never been 
able to obtain as large orders or as 
satisfactory prices. Often yarns 
which are used in voiles are gassed, 
a process by which projecting fibres 
are removed, making the yarn like 
small rods. Sometimes voile cloths 
are piece mercerized, this process giv- 
ing a certain amount of luster which 
makes the material more desirable, al- 
though it does not produce a luster to 
compare with that in a yarn which 
contains what is called soft twist. 

Many of the fabrics which are 
made in cotton mills and which con- 
tain silk are under the new tariff 
classified in the "silk schedule," and 
obtain comparatively high rates of 
protection, allowing a great many of 
them to be made satisfactorily in 
domestic mills. Take the fabric un- 
der discussion. Without doubt upon 
the lowest cost in a foreign mill the 
domestic maker would obtain far more 
protection than his entire cost of 
manufacturing, excluding the material. 
This occurs through the proportion of 
silk used in the fabric making. Most 
of the silk and cotton fabrics produced 
in cotton mills are thus 

HIGHLY PROTECTED, 

and few of such fabrics can be im- 
ported unless the foreign maker plans 
the material to be in chief value of 
cotton, which allows only a compara- 
tively small amount of silk to be 
used. Fabrics of a novelty character 
can often be sold direct to large re- 
tailers, or in any case, more direct 
than those which are made in larger 
quantities, and the advance in price 
sometimes does not appear so great 



as it does on other lines of fabrics. 
Take ordinary silk cloths such as are 
produced in large quantities. It of- 
ten happens that a cloth which costs 
about 60 cents to manufacture is re- 
tailed at $1.25 regularly or even less. 
This is only about 100 per cent ad- 
vance on the cost of making. Pos- 
sibly the majority of fancy cotton 
cloths show an advance of 
anywhere from 250 to 300 per cent; 
and many of them as much as 500 
per cent advance on the cost of mak- 
ing. There are very few of the 
high-class silk fabrics which show as 
great advances as fancy cotton fab- 
rics do when the price to consumers 
and the cost of manufacturing is con- 
sidered. 

The domestic manufacturer of fancy 
fabrics produces them in a very effi- 
cient manner; in fact, it is doubted 
whether foreign makers can approach 
the costs of some of the domestic 
makers on a good many materials, 
but where the difference occurs is in 
the 

COST OF' DISTRIBUTION. 

For a good many mills competition 
has forced prices to about as low a 
level as can occur and allow a suffi- 
cient margin of profit, and any fur- 
ther steps will force manufacturers 
to protect themselves and go into dis- 
tributing their cloth themselves. This 
may not mean selling to the consumer 
direct, for such a method is not gen- 
erally possible, but it does mean that 
manufacturers will adopt some meth- 
od by which their fabrics will be- 
come known to consumers and where- 
by they will have something to say 
regarding the prices at which their 
materials are sold. If prices are not 
lowered their going into distribution 
will allow them to obtain certain of 
the large profits which are now ob- 
tained by others. The development 
of fancy cloth making in small quan- 
tities has yet to occur in the domestic 
market, but when it does occur the 
methods of distribution will be watch- 
ed carefully and without doubt larger 
manufacturers will profit by them. 
The method of obtaining the yarn 
weights is as follows: 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



173 



1,652 ends -=- (100/2 X 840) = .0370. weight warp per yard of woven cloth. 

of white warp without take-up. 80 picks X 49 &" width In reed X 36 = g ^ 

4% take-up in weaving. 36 » 

.0370 -s- .96 = .0385, total weight of white yards of filling per yard of cloth. 

warp per yard of woven cloth. 3,960 ■*■ 225,000 yards (silk) = .0176, total 

1,470 ends -h (100/2 X 840) = .0350, weight weight of filling per yard of woven cloth. 

of colored warp without take-up. .0385 + .0365 + .0176 = .0926. total weight 

4% take-up in weaving. per yard. 

.0350 h- .96 = .0365, total weight of colored 1.0000 -*- .0926 = 10.80 yards per lb. 

PATTERN. 
100/2 Sea Island combed white I 48 I I I X4 | I 48 I = 1,552 

100/2 Sea Island combed colored | | | 14 | I 14 | I I = 1.470 

104 X 3,022 

18/20 silk filling; 80 picks per inch. 
60 reed, 49%" width in reed, 47" finished width. 
64 X 80 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, waste, 
twisting, 
Cotton, dyeing, etc. 
100/2 S. I. combed white; 1%" staple; 20 hank dou. rov., 2S',4c. 59c. = 87%c 

100/2 S. I. combed colored; 1%" staple; 20 hank dou. rov., 28%c. 65c. = 9 J» C - 

18/20 silk filling; 225,000 yards per lb. (ready for use) = $4.10 

COST. 

1,552 ends 100/2 Sea Island white + 4% take-up = .0385 @ 87 %c. = $ .0336 

1,470 ends 100/2 Sea Island colored + 4% take-up = .03C5 @ 93%c. = .0341 

80 picks 18/20 silk filling = .0176 @ $4.10 = .072* 

Weaving nolo 

Expenses .0252 

$ .2134 
Finishing - 0075 

$ .2209 
Selling -QUI 

Mill cost * -2320 

Plain weave. 

Yards per pound 10.80. 

Retail price $1 per yard. 



ARTIFICIAL SILK NOVELTY 
DRESS GOODS 

There is a greater amount of in- 
terest in fancy cloth making at pres- 
ent in regard to the possibilities in 
use of artificial silk than there is 
in about any other feature which 
makes cloth salable. The method of 
making and characteristics of artifi- 
cial silk have been described in these 
columns quite extensively in the past, 
and there is little to be said as far as 
the cloth maker is concerned, inas- 
much as he is interested in adapting 
this material to his fabrics rather than 
in the original production of the fibre. 
There are certain features which 
make artificial silk desirable in fabrics 
and there are other features which, 
from a manufacturing standpoint, 
make it rather undesirable. 

Possibly the fact that it loses strength 



very extensively when moistened 
has been mentioned as prominently 
as any other characteristic, but the 
method which has been used by fab- 
ric makers in adapting this material 
to their cloths causes this item to be 
of comparatively small importance, 
in fact, so far as the ultimate consum- 
er is concerned, the fibre might just 
about as well be artificial silk as the 
real article. Then there are disad- 
vantages in the use of this material 
by a manufacturer. The fibre is quite 
slippery and rather stiff, in some in- 
stances being undesirable from such 
cause. 

Then, it also is not made in as fine 
sizes as silk or if made, it is not a 
practical thing from the standpoint 
of most manufacturers. Because the 
yarn is of quite heavy size it is im- 
possible to use it in certain fine fab- 
rics, that is, the heavy yarn will not 
weave satisfactorily in a fine reed. 
The passing of the reed back and 



174 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



forth causes the yarn to wear and it 
loses strength, thus causing break- 
ages. This 

FRAYING PROCESS 
also causes fibres to be worn so that 
they project from the main strand 
of yarn and this is sometimes ob- 
jectionable. There are very many 
fabrics, however, in which artificial 
silk in ordinary sizes can be used 
successfully. Everyone realizes that 
many cloths have been in demand 
which have had a rather low count, 
such as voiles, crepes, and various 
kinds of eponge cloths. 

In these materials artificial silk has 
been used quite extensively and will 
be used in similar cloths much more 
so in the future. Recently, we were 
shown a cloth in which a double nov- 
elty yarn was used, one of the 
strands being a nub yarn composed 
entirely of artificial, silk. The do- 
mestic manufacturer has to consider 
very seriously the fact that he can- 
not afford to use very much extra 
labor in his fabric making, even on 
the extreme novelties which are pro- 
duced in the market. For this reason, 
it is impossible to use artificial silk 
in fabrics here as extensively as it is 
in foreign countries, but it is undoubt- 
edly possible to use a much greater 
quantity than is at present noted. 
When a real silk is being used of a 
coarse size there are very many in- 
stances where an artificial silk could 
be substituted to advantage not only 
so far as the price is concerned, but 
also in regard to the ease of pro- 
duction. 

VALUE OF SMALL DETAILS. 

One of the great reasons why many 
foreign fancy fabrics appear better 
than domestic cloths of a similar 
character is because of the greater 
care used in cloth construction and 
in placing the weave upon the fabric. 
Due to a greater amount of expe- 
rience, and a greater production on 
fancy fabrics, the foreign manufac- 
turer has developed ideas which as 
yet are often submerged in the Quan- 
tity production methods adopted gen- 
erally in domestic mills. Take the 
fabric which we have analyzed for 
an example. There are certain arti- 
ficial silk yarns which can be regularly 



obtained in the market, but there is 
not the wide variety of sizes which 
can be found in cotton yarns. Unless 
the correct size of cotton yarn is used 
in combination with the artificial silk 
it will not produce especially attrac- 
tive results. Often fabrics are made 
where the various yarns used do not 
combine in the manner best suited to 
produce the most attractive results. 

Another feature which is often lost 
sight of is the fact that 

A GOOD SELVAGE 
on a piece of cloth will make it appear 
much better and sometimes bring a 
higher price. It is not always neces- 
sary that the selvage be a wide one, 
but rather that it combines well with 
the cloth and does not have a ragged 
or uneven appearance. There are 
many cloths produced which would 
appear far better if the yarns in the 
selvage were reeded differently. The 
weave also should be' adapted to the 
cloth construction. There are many 
converters in the domestic market 
who will have a certain fabric made 
by the mill and it will appear entirely 
satisfactory. Afterwards, they will 
pick out various designs to be used 
upon this ground cloth and the results 
will not be as attractive as was ex- 
pected. 

It is absolutely impossible to place 
a weave upon a cloth and expect it to 
appear exactly as well as some other 
weave does, inasmuch as the combina- 
tion is not the same and the 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION 
and weave combination make the re- 
sults somewhat different. We have 
seen many instances where purchas- 
ers applied new weaves to fabrics 
formerly handled, and because the 
results were not at all like those pre- 
viously obtained, have criticized the 
mill severely, claiming that the cotton 
used, the method of making, or cloth 
construction was changed in order to 
make a higher profit, while such was 
not the case. There are very few 
reliable cotton manufacturers who 
manipulate their fabrics when sample 
pieces have been made and supplied 
to buyers. It will be noted that the 
weave of the cloth shows the artificial 
silk to advantage and some other 
method might not hav« been nearly so 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



175 



satisfactory. It will also be seen that 
THE WEAVE HAS MUCH TO DO 

with the cloth effect which has been 
obtained. In each stripe the three 
cotton threads weave exactly the 
same, namely plain weave, while the 
two threads of silk weave the same 
in most instances. This allows the 
various threads to slide together, and 
the fact that the plain weave in the 
different stripes changes holds the 
stripes apart and creates a regular 
ODen space. Naturally, this open 
space is originally created by having 
an empty dent in the reed, but un- 
less the cloth construction is correct 
and the weave used one which corre- 
sponds, the various threads will spread 



ability, the construction and design 
can be adapted more satisfactorily 
and much better results produced. 
Attractiveness is one of the main fea- 
tures to be considered in high-class 
cotton fabrics and it pays to place 
emphasis upon the details when the 
cloth is being planned. Often, the 
effects of good yarn and good weav- 
ing are more than counteracted by a 
small amount of carelessness in mak- 
ing the design. 

HIGH-CLASS YARN A NECESSITY. 
We do not believe there are many 
in the market who realize the great 
advance which has occurred during 
the past five years in the quality of 
the yarn which is used in many of 




1 |,f I ■ | 1,1 Kg § S"f,l f'l III f If if' 

ill ililllll II 1 1 1 1 lilf lit Itllf lllf if i|| § 1 1 f f If 

P will lilff ii'ltf lll'f I If i ii 



s S : = g H'f 5 g.S- s £ a 
■''■|| 1:1 I'S !,'■=: | 

if-sar ■■■■ 




li«a?i i ia;»ie«5i«''ffi:irirSly 

Artificial Silk Novelty Dress Goods, 



_ J. 3- ' 

ll'fli I j 

H-l''liltii*I 
JiMlfilii-i- 



radically when the cloth is being fin- 
ished and no open spaces will appear. 
In a good many openwork fabrics, 
A SMALL LENO THREAD 
is used alongside of the stripes in 
order to hold them firmly in place, 
this being noted more particularly 
when the stripes are wide. In certain 
instances, it has been known that 
manufacturers have used silk for 
stripes or checks and then eaten out 
this silk in order to create clear open- 
work effects. This method, however, 
is not generally used because of the 
cost. A very small amount of extra 
labor, and oftentimes through no ex- 
tra labor but rather through more 



the high-class domestic fabrics. This 
statement does not mean that there 
is not still a large field for improve- 
ment, but rather that results are much 
better than formerly. There never 
has been any great amount of criti- 
cism regarding the strength of most 
domestic yarns, but there has been a 
great deal of criticism regarding their 
regularity. Domestic makers use 
much longer staples and more twist 
for their yarns than do foreign mak- 
ers and this accounts for the greater 
strength even though the yarn is not 
so good in appearance. One reason 
why the yarns made in domestic 
mills are better than they were is 



176 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



because makers have been forced in- 
to producing better materials or else 
lose a portion of their business. 

Voiles and many other fabrics of a 
similar character have been in large 
demand and unless high-class yarns 
were used results were not especially 
attractive. A great deal of criticism 
has been noted in regard to the finish 
applied to fabrics by finishers of do- 
mestic cloths. It may be that such 
parties are partly responsible for the 
finish being less desirable than on 
foreign fabrics, but manufacturers 
themselves are also partly to blame. 
It is not possible to obtain as good a 
finish on a fabric in which uneven 
yarns are used as it is on one in which 
the yarns are very regular, and this is 
one of the reasons why many foreign 
fabrics take a better finish. Mule 
spinning and a larger amount of labor 
have a tendency to produce yarn of a 
regular character, while quantity pro- 
duction and ring spinning do not tend 
to make yarn of an especially high 
quality. As long as quantity rather 
than quality is the item of importance., 
just so long will the finish of domestic 
fabrics be criticized when compared 
with certain foreign materials. 

EASY DESIGN FOR SAMPLE. 

There are a great many, having 
had little experience in the matter, 
who consider that the making of de- 
signs on most jacquard cotton fabrics 
is a much more difficult process than 
the making of designs for fancy dobby 
cloths. This is not true in a majority 
of instances, and the fabric which we 
are considering is a good illustration 
of the simpleness of design work for 
many materials. Without doubt, an 
ordinary workman could complete a 
design such as is noted on the cloth 
considered in an hour's time or even 
less. It is not necessary to paint in 
the entire weave, but rather it is only 
essential to paint in the portions of 
the weave where the artificial silk 
floats on the surface. The plain 
weave ground can be entirely omitted 
and introduced by the party who 
places the weave upon the cards. 

It may be well to note that the arti- 
ficial silk floats for an odd number of 
picks in every case when the figure 
is being made. This is necessary be- 



cause of the plain weave on the other 
threads in the cloth. Sometimes it is 
rather 

DIFFICULT FOR A BEGINNER 

to understand this fact, but by paint- 
ing in the ground weave around a 
figure it is easy enough to see how 
the floats all become odd numbers. 
The total cost for design, cards and 
other features for a fabric such as 
the one considered is not over one- 
tenth of a cent per yard added to the 
total cost of making. Of course, a 
cloth with a greater number of picks 
per inch, or one upon which a great 
deal more labor was expended in de- 
sign making, would cost much larger 
amount, but for many cloths the cost 
is of minor importance. The weave 
and cloth construction have been con- 
sidered sufficiently in this material, 
for the best results have been ob- 
tained. Many fabrics of a similar 
character have been sold which do not 
compare at all with the one con- 
sidered. 

PRODUCTION AND PROFITS. 

One feature which has appealed 
particularly to manufacturers of voiles 
and similar cloths is that there has 
been quite a satisfactory amount of 
profit in their making. This is true 
at present on all of the good grades, 
and was previously true even upon 
most of the lower grades. This sat- 
isfactory profit has resulted because 
the materials contain a comparatively 
small number of picks per inch, and 
there was a large yardage produced 
per loom and a low weaving and ex- 
pense cost. The material or the yarn 
which was used in such a fabric 
form a much larger proportion of the 
total cost than it did on many fabrics 
which had been previously made, and 
for this reason, there was a greater op- 
portunity to obtain a higher profit. A 
very small amount per yard creates a 
satisfactory dividend because the total 
amount is quite large, due to the 
amount of cloth which can be woven. 
Naturally, the demand for the material 
was partly responsible for the large 
PROFITS WHICH MANY SECURED. 

An item which is seldom considered 
at all by manufacturers, and by those 
who do consider it not in an accurate 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



177 



enough manner, is that which refers 
to the profits that should be secured 
on different fabrics. The method most 
eenerally adopted in fancy cloth mak- 
ing is to figure profits upon a basis of 
a certain amount per loom per week. 
If a fabric produces one hundred yards 
per week and a manufacturer desires 
to make $2 per loom per week, the 
practice is to quote a price which 
shows about 2 cents per yard profit. 
This method is approximately correct 
for fabrics which make it possible for 
all the machinery in a plant to be 
operated, but this is seldom noted on 
most fancy cloths. 

Let us illustrate this point a little 
more clearly. A fancy mill is planned 
to make a certain kind of cloths, and 
has a layout with a special number 
of preparatory machines and a cer- 
tain number of spindles per loom. Let 
us say that a mill contains 40 spindles 
per loom, which would be satisfactory 
for many fancy cloths. Recently, 
many mills have made single yarn 
voiles and also large quantities of 
crepes and other 

SPECIAL YARN MATERIALS. 

On many of these cloths almost twice 
as many spindles per loom are neces- 
sary as for ordinary work, and still 
no change is made in the amount 
which a manufacturer expects to make 
on the loom basis. This is an in- 
correct method, because it will not 
produce the profits which a manufac- 
turer desires, the loom either earning 
more or less than the manufacturer 
has planned. When a greater number 
of spindles are necessary to produce 
the yarn for the loom than was 
planned, the profits are not enough to 
take care of the spindles and other 
machinery which are necessary or idle 
through the cloth being made. 

If less spindles per loom are being 
used the loom is earning more than 
it should to create the dividends ex- 
pected. There should also be some 
provision made for the different kinds 
of looms employed. It is not a cor- 
rect policy to expect a jacquard box 
loom to earn money at the same basic 
rate as does a dobby or a plain loom, 
although this method is in more or 
less general use. Manufacturers have 
claimed that this policy is necessary, 



inasmuch as jacquard loom fabrics are 
sold upon practically the same basis 
as dobby materials, but the outlay 
necessary to produce jacquard cloth is 
somewhat greater and for this reason 
the amount obtained per yard should 
be varied accordingly. Much more 
care is being given to these items than 
previously, and the time will come 
when manufacturers will know more 
accurately just what their various 
machines are earning. 

TARIFF ON ARTIFICIAL SILK. 

In regard to fabrics in which artifi- 
cial silk has been used, there is quite 
a little discussion being heard and 
some uncertainty in regard to the 
rates of duty. The fact that provision 
was made for artificial silk and arti- 
ficial silk fabrics in the silk schedule, 
but that no provision was made in the 
cotton schedule, is a subject for criti- 
cism. When a fabric is woven from 
artificial silk, and the value of the 
p^tificial silk is greater than the other 
materials used, the fabric is classified 
in the silk schedule and the rate of 
duty Is 60 per cent. When there is a 
greater amount of value of cotton 
varn in the fabric, the material is 
Massed in the cotton schedule and the 
rate of duty is 30 per cent. This is 
a wide variation and will undoubt- 
edly cause quite a little trouble 
when the fabric is anywhere near the 
dividing line. The reason the rate 
of duty is 30 per cent is because no 
special provision was made for this 
sort of cloth and it is classified under 
catch-all paragraph No. 266. 

Take the fabric which we have 
analyzed for an example. A mill 
which purchases fine yarns in order 
to make a cloth of this character 
would cause the fabric to be in the 
cotton classification, whereas if the 
artificial silk was handled an exces- 
sive number of times, or if only small 
quantities were purchased, the fabric 
would, from a manufacturing stand- 
point, be in chief value of artificial 
silk. Then, many of these fabrics are 
piece-dyed rather than yarn-dyed. 
The losses in finishing are not the 
same for artificial and for real silk, 
and the basis which is used for or- 
dinary silk cannot be used at all in 
making a correct estimate regarding 



178 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



chief values. A fabric in which the 
chief value is cotton, and in which 
a dobby weave has been used, will 
have no lower rate of duty than if a 
fancy jacquard weave had been used, 
inasmuch as the rate of duty for both 
will be 30 per cent. 

This is not correct theoretically, be- 
cause 

ORDINARY COTTON FABRICS 
with a dobby weave are assessed ac- 
cording to their yarn size, but a 
similar fabric with a jacquard weave 
is 30 per cent. A fabric in which a 
single thread of artificial silk is used 
will carry as high a rate of duty as 
one in which quite a large portion of 
artificial silk has been used, and this 
l\eoretically is not correct and will un- 
doubtedly cause quite a large amount 
of silk to be used when any kind of 
a novelty fabric is to be made. Under 



the present tariff law there seems to 
be very little equality in the various 
rates for different kinds of cloth, 
the discrepancies undoubtedly being 
greater in number than were noted 
under the previous tariff law. The 
method of obtaining the weights of 
yarn and the weight of the cloth as 
it is produced by the loom is a com- 
paratively simple process and is as 
follows: 

1,542 ends -f- (100/2 X 840) = .0367. weight 

of cotton warp without take-up. 
12% take-up in weaving. 
.0367 -h .SS = .0417, total weight of cotton 

warp per woven yard. 
964 ends h- 30,000 yards = .0321, weight of 

art. silk without take-up. 
6% take-up in weaving. 
.0321 -- .94 = .0342, total weight of art. 

silk per woven vard. 
52 picks X 441/2" width in reed X 36" 

= 2,314 

36" 

yards of filling per yard. 
2,314 -£ (100/2 X S40) = .0551, total weight 

of filling per woven yard. 
.0417 + .0342 + -0551 = .1310, total weight 

per yard. 
1.0000 -f- .1310 = 7.63 yards per pound 

(grey). 



100/2 S. I. combed, hard twist 
150 Denier artificial silk 



PATTERN. 
1 1 

1 1 



1 — = 1,542 Beam 1. 
24 

= 964 Beam 2. 



482 X 



2,506 total ends. 



100/2 S. I. combed, hard twist; 62 picks. 

33 reed; 44%" width in reed, 41" grey width, 39%" finished width. 
64 X 52 finished count, over all. 

YARNS. 



100/2 R. I. combed warp, 1%" staple, 20 hank dou. rov., 
100/2 S. I. combed filling, 1%" staple, 20 hank dou. rov., 
150 Denier art. silk, 30.000 vards per lb. 





Liabor. 






waste, twist- 




Cotton. 


ing, etc. 




28 %c. 


53%c. = 


82V.C. 


28%c. 


47 %c. = 


75%c. 




= 


$2.15 



1,542 ends 100/2 S. I. combed warp + 12% take-up = .0417 © 82%c. = $ .0343 

964 ends 150 Denier art. silk + 6% take-up = .0342 (5> $2.15 = .0736 

62 picks 100/2 S. I. combed filling = .0551 @ 75%c. = .0418 

Weaving .0316 

Expenses .0164 

$ .1977 

Selling (grey) .0040 

Mill cost (grey) '. . $ .2017 

Mill price (about) $ .2200 

Cost of dyeing and finishing .0350 

Converter's expenses .0200 

Converter's cost $ 2750 

Selling price (about) , 3350 

Retail price .5000 

Foregoing prices estimated on domestic basis of direct selling 
Actual retail price $1 per yard, Imported. 
Rate of duty 30%. 
Yards per pound 7.63 (frey). 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



179 



SWIVEL DOTTED SWISS 

A variety of cotton fabric which is 
gradually becoming of greater impor- 
tance in textile distribution is that 
class of materials which are known as 
swivel fabrics. These are not pro- 
duced in the domestic market to any 
extent; in fact, it is probable that no 
more than one or two mills are capa- 
ble of making such fabrics at all. 
There is a good reason why such a 
condition exists, mainly being that 
jacquard work represents the highest 
type of ordinary woven fabric which 
can be made, and swivel work 
is intricate jacquard weaving. 
Because of the newness of the 



is a wide variety of figures of a much 
more intricata character, which are 
regularly produced, though their con- 
struction varies according to the style 
of figure in demand. 

Because there are very few looms 
capable of producing similar fabrics 
in the domestic market, most of such 
cloth is made in foreign mills, though 
it is very probable that there will be 
an increase in the domestic produc- 
tion in the near future. As a general 
thing, swivel fabrics made from cotton 
are used for waists, dresses and other 
similar purposes where an expensive 
and rather light fabric is desirable. 
Due to the method of producing, the 
labor and expense cost of making 
these fabrics is much higher than it 



Double Shuttle Swivel Fabric. 



domestic fancy goods industry, there 
reallv has been very little time 
for the development of fancy jacquard 
weaves, inasmuch as simple jacquard 
fabrics are not produced in as large 
amounts as might be possible. Fab- 
rics made by the swivel mechanism 
are oftentimes composed entirely of 
silk, but there are certain styles of 
cloth which are 

MADE ENTIRELY FROM COTTON, 
and which have a wide distribution. 
Possibly, fabrics similar to that ana- 
lyzed illustrate the largest selling 
lines of swivel production, but there 



is in practically all lines of domestic 
made fabrics. 

It is probable that in most cotton 
swivel fabrics the material used forms 
less than 25 per cent of the total cost 
with labor and other items constitut- 
ing the remaining cost. The mam 
characteristic of most swivel fabrics 
is a very light ground decorated with 
relatively heavy spots or figures. In 
a good many instances, the fabrics 
are used as overdresses, with the fig- 
ures showing contrast with the ground 
cloth, and also with the underdress. 
- In a general way there are three 



180 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



methods which are largely used in 
decorating a light fabric ground with 
an extra figure. First, is the method 
ordinarily known as box loom work, 
in vhich an extra filling of a heavy 
character is inserted for the whole 
width of the cloth, and when the 
weaving operation is completed a por- 
tion of the extra heavy filling is 
sheared away, leaving only the light 
ground cloth with heavy interwoven 
figures. These box loom figures are 
made on a wide variety of fabrics, but 
can usually be distinguished very 
easily. A second method of produc- 
tion is that ordinarily known as lappet 
work. In this method an extra mo- 
tion is attached to the loom lay. In 
this extra motion there are a certain 
number of needles which project down- 
ward, the number of needles depend- 
ing upon the pattern being woven, and 
these needles containing ends of yarn 
are moved backward and forward as 
the pattern is made. Sometimes the 
patterns are trailing ones, while in 
other instances Ihey are various kinds 
of spots. 

In the first case shearing is not nec- 
essary, while in the second case, a 
succeeding process is necessary to cut 
away the loose thread which is noted 
because a single thread continues to 
form succeeding spots and passes 
from one to the other. This kind of 
woven figure can be easily distin- 
guished from a box loom woven figure, 
because each spot is made from a 
single thread, whereas this does not 
occur when a box loom is used. It is, 
however, not so easy to distinguish 
certain kinds of lappet work from cer- 
tain kinds of swivel work, though, in 
the maioritv of Instances thorn la no 
question regarding the method of pro- 
duction. Wherever a certain type of 
figure can be produced by either lap- 
pet or swivel motion, the difference in 
method used can be noted through the 
irregularity in lappet motion opera- 
tion as seen in the woven cloth and 
also by the fact that the ends of the 
sheared lappet spot are practically al- 
ways on the face of the material, 
whereas, on swivel work they are on 
the back of the cloth. Swivel work is 
not only the most expensive method 
of making decorated cloths, such as 



are described, but is also best, though 
the most compli ated method. 

COST OF PRODUCTION. ^ 

The various methods in relation to 
cost of production are, first, lappet; 
second, box loom work, and third, 
swivel work. The various swivel fig- 
ures as woven are made as exact as 
any jacquard woven figures; in fact, 
the jacquard motion is responsible for 
the interweaving of a swivel yarn and 
the motion can be depended upon to 
produce exactly the same effect in ev- 
ery repeat of the pattern. To a cer- 
tain extent swivel work appears some 
what similar to lappet. There is ordi- 
narily only one thread used in making 
each figure, that is, if only one bank 
of swivel shuttles be used, and the 
swivel yarn does not pass across the 
entire warp, but rather interweaves 
where the figure is being forced. In 
swivel work there is a small spool of 
yarn used for each swivel shuttle, 
whereas in ordinary lappet work, all 
of the various threads forming similar 
fieures are placed upon a larere snool 
which is placed upon the loom frame. 
There are a pood many consumers 
who do not distinguish between swivel 
and embroidered cloths. In a swivel 
woven fabric the ends which decorate 
the cloth are always in a horizontal 
position, because the swivel shuttles 
operate in a similar manner to ordi- 
nary loom shuttles, while in an em- 
broidered fabric the yarn which deco- 
rates the fabric is likelv to be at any 
angle to the warp and firing, accord- 
ing to the pattern which is being 
made. 

METHOD OF OPERATION. 

To a good many, especially in the 
domestic market, the method by 
which swivel patterns are made is not 
especially clear, and while it is not 
possible to give any detailed explana- 
tion in a short description, neverthe- 
less It may be well to state a few of 
the fundamental features. In the first 
place, there are three general tvpes of 
swivel mechanisms used. Possibly, 
the one which is used most extensive- 
ly is that one wherein certain small 
shuttles of a horizontal nature are in- 
troduced Into the fabric where the 
swivel figure Is to be made. These 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



181 



*mall shuttles contain very small 
spools of yarn, and there may be more 
than one bank of the shuttles accord- 
ing to the fabric to be produced, or 
the loom mechanism. These small 
shuttles have to correspond to the tie- 
up of the jacquard machines, and vice 
versa. If a 600-jacquard machine Is 
used with a tie-up of 100 hooks per 
inch it will give a repeat in the reed 
of six inches. 

If two swivel shuttles be used, the 
pitch of the swivel shuttle will be 
three inches, whereas, if four shuttles 
be used, the pitch will be one and one- 
half inches, etc. There is a certain 
limit below which it is not satisfactory 
to go into the matter of shuttles by 
this method. To make the swivel pat- 
tern the various jacquard hooks are 



allover patterns could not be pro- 
duced, or if they were made, only in 
a striped form, but this does not occur 
because the mechanism which holds 
the shuttles can be moved to the side 
to correspond to the pattern which is 
being made, and to allow space for 
the swivel shuttles to be inserted. 
A second kind of 

SWIVEL MECHANISM 

might be considered somewhat simi- 
lar to the one already described, but 
it has a number of different features. 
In this method the swivel shuttles are 
smaller and there usually are more 
shuttles in the cloth width. In a good 
many cases these small shuttles will 
traverse about one-half an inch in the 
cloth width, or will make a woven pat- 




Swivel Dotted Swiss. 



raised as desired, and the mechanism 
holding the swivel shuttles is lowered, 
the small shuttles passing underneath 
a portion of the warp threads. This 
is accomplished through a rack and 
gears upon the loom lay, the small 
shuttles passing from one shuttle 
holder to another. It must be remem- 
bered that a certain portion of the 
warp must remain down to allow 
space for the small shuttles to be in- 
serted. When the swivel figure is be- 
ing made the ordinary picking motion 
does not operate. From this foregoing 
descrintion it might be supposed that 



tern from each thread about half an 
inch wide, though the combination and 
manipulation of the various shuttles 
will make large allover patterns. 
These small shuttles are lowered in 
the cloth shed, and instead of being 
transferred from one shuttle holder to 
another by rack and gears they are 
transferred by small levers which are 
operated by the loom mechanism. In 
this case there may be certain shut- 
tles idle a portion of the time where 
no figure is being made, but this 
causes no difficulty. The swivel 
mechanism is not moved in a horizon- 



182 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tal position in this method, but rather 
remains stationary, and the numerous 
swivel shuttles will produce the pat- 
tern wherever the warp threads are 
raised. 

A third method which appears dif- 
ferent than either of those described 
is one wherein a small shuttle travels 
underneath the warp threads in a cir- 
cular holder. In this method it is only 
possible to use one color of swivel 
thread at any time, inasmuch as there 
can be but one bank of swivel shut- 
tles, but there is a certain advantage 
over the first method described, inas- 
much as it allows the swivel shuttle 
to pass under a greater number or 
portion of warp threads. This is ex- 
plained by the fact that less space is 
necessary than in the first method for 
the swivel shuttles to be inserted. As 
the swivel motion is a mora expensive 
one it may be wondered wherein any 
advantage is secured. In the first 
place, various clear-edged figures can 
be made similar to those produced on 
the ordinary jacquards and be made 
of heavy extra yarn in order to show 
striking contrasts. The method of us- 
ing the swivel motion saves a great 
deal of yarn, and while this is of 
minor importance when compared to 
the effects produced, nevertheless it 
is essential. 

The swivel motion is also of advan- 
tage in decorating certain jacquard 
figures upon various fabrics, that is, it 
may be desirable to have a flower up- 
on a certain woven pattern made of 
colored yarn or of a heavier character 
than the ground fabric, and a swivel 
motion allows this to be done. In cot- 
ton fabrics most of the swivel decora- 
tion is done in one color, namely that 
of the ground cloth, but there are an 
increasing number of fabrics which 
importers are showing to-day, where 
figures are introduced of one or more 
colors and contrasting decidedly with 
that of the ground cloth. On 
page 179 we illustrate one of 
the s^^ll figures often used 
with tvo colors. This is es- 
pecially true on certain lines of crepe 
cloths now being offered. There are 
other advantages to be obtained, such 
as a snot, or fieure which will stand 
up better than by any other method, 
and bound in more firmly. 



There are certain features in con- 
nection with the fabric analyzed which 
are worth mentioning. In the first 
place, it is about as simple a figure as 
is ever made on a swivel mechanism, 
being one of simple detached spots. 
It will be noted that the spots are 
quite large and prominent and seem 
the same, both on the face and back 
of the fabric. This is made possible 
through the weaving process. There 
are four picks from the swivel mech- 
anism to one pick of ground cloth, 
when the spot is being woven, in oth- 
er words, the swivel shuttle passes 
around certain warp threads twice be- 
fore a ground pick is inserted. This 
can be accomplished very easily and 
is often done for fabrics such as that 
described. In many other instances 
the swivel shuttle does not pass en- 
tirely across the back, but is brought 
up and acts as a stuffer to the portion 
of the thread which is seen on the 
face. Were the spots being made con- 
tinuously, or were the swivel pattern 
always being made, there would be 
four times as many picks of swivel 
yarn as there would be for the ground 
cloth, but inasmuch as the swivel 
mechanism is not operating a portion 
of the time, this ratio does not occur 
for the whole fabric. Instead of there 
being 240 picks of swivel and 60 picks 
of ground, there are practically 71 
picks of swivel and 60 picks of eround, 
or a total of 131 picks per inch in the 
cloth as it comes from the loom. 

To make the second row of spots, 
the mechanism is moved o*er, the 
spots inserted and then it is returned 
to its original n^sition. where the op- 
eration is repeated. One of the 

INTERESTING FEATURES 

in regard to the swivel work 
is that the cloth is woven face 
down. This is necessary because the 
swivel shuttles are placed above the 
warp threads, and because the loose 
threads, which eo from one figure to 
another as sp^t patterns are being 
made, are on the top of the cloth when 
it is being woven. A cloth such as 
that described has to have a shearing 
process in which the thread which 
foes from one fieure to the other is 
cut off. It is always a very good pol- 
icy to have as much ground cloth as 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



183 



possible next to the selvages in or- 
der to make the weaving operation as 
easy as possible. 

Because the fabrics are of a light 
character it is customary to use a 
plain weave ground for fabrics such 
as are described. A woven ground 
figure never appears at all prominent 
on such a light material, though on 
other constructions intricate jacquard 
weaves are used, together with the 
swivel figures. One of the features 
which causes quite a little difficulty 
in the production of a fabric such as 
that analyzed is that the small swivel 
shuttles do not contain any great 
amount of yarn, and because of the 
heavy character of the spots the ma- 
terial is used up rapidly, causing 
many changes of shuttle spools and a 
corresponding loss in production. 
SIMILAR CLOTH GROUNDS. 

Inasmuch as these fabrics are 
largely a foreign product it may be 
well to comment regarding the qual- 
ity. Foreign fabrics are usually made 
by somewhat different methods than 
those produced in the domestic mar- 
ket, and it can be stated positively 
that in quite a number of instances 
the method of production does not re- 
sult in what would be considered high 
quality fabrics in the domestic mar- 
kets. This is especially true on some 
of the medium -weight fabrics such as 
the ground cloth of the fabric ana- 
lyzed. The foreign method of yarn 
making, wherein a relatively short 
staple of cotton is used and wherein 
the yarn is spun upon the mule, does 
not produce yarn of great strength. 
It does make a soft, round yarn which 
is very desirable for certain fabrics, 
but is not desirable for a fabric such 
as that analyzed. The yarn in this 
fabric is regular, but it is not strong. 
We do not believe there is a 
single mill in the domestic market 
which, if asked to produce a ground 
cloth such as that noted in the fabric 
described, would not produce a cloth 
which would break twice as high as 
the foreign material and wear twice 
as long. 

This may seem a 

RADICAL STATEMENT, 
but, nevertheless, it is true, and what 
Is more, the same conditions are noted 



on a great many more fabrics than 
either foreign manufacturers or do- 
mestic distributers are willing to ad- 
mit. In discussing imported fabrics 
buyers never give credit to do- 
mestic manufacturers for any su- 
periority whatever, when there are a 
good many instances where domestic 
fabrics are much superior. Soft twist 
and short staple are of advantage for 
certain fabrics, but long staple, a high- 
er standard of twist and strength are 
desiraole for other faorics, of which 
the one presented is an illustration. 
We do not believe there is a single 
mill in the domestic market which is 
weaving as weak yarn as that in the 
fabric analyzed, and if any attempts 
are made to import yarn of a similar 
character and v. eave it, there will be 
so many difficulties that domestic 
manufacturers will give up the idea in 
disgust. 

This does not mean that foreign 
manufacturers cannot ana do not 
make high-class yarns, for this is not 
true, but when comparisons are being 
made it would te just as well if other 
important features were considered 
along with the price. There would have 
V) P Qn fewer fabrics imported in the 
npst if buyers had treated dorm^otjp 
fabrics fairly, but they have not only 
built up many wrong impressions re- 
garding the quality of foreign fabrics, 
but also as to their values. 
Where such materials are distributed 
to a high-class trade it makes little 
difference, but inasmuch as ordinary 
consumers are buying increasing 
amounts of high-priced fabrics there 
is sure to be a much different idea re- 
garding the wearing quality and ac- 
tual value. 

The fabric analyzed was imported 
and sold at reta.l at 46 cents per yard. 
We have given an approximate cost of 
production upon a domestic basis. Of 
course, this cost might vary somewhat 
in a domestic plant, but it is a high 
cost if anything. Other styles of pat- 
terns return a somewhat higher price 
than that noted and this shows that 
there is an opportunity for domestic 
manufacturers to introduce the mak- 
ing of such cloths. We have esti- 
mated the maker's selling price at 25 
cents per yard, which would allow 
quite a nigh rate of profit to a domes- 



184 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tic producer. Undoubtedly, a manufac- accurate results will not be obtained, 
turer could produce this cloth to sell Of greatest importance is the amount 
as low or lower than that of the for- of yarn necessary to weave the vari- 
eign manufacturer, and what is more, ous spots. This is quite large, inas- 
it unquestionably would be of much much as the swivel threads pass 
higher quality. around the various warp ends twice 
The production of swivel patterns is before a pick of filling is inserted, 
a much more staple business than The take-up in weaving is quite a 
many would consider to be the case little greater than for similar spots 
and it would be possible for a mod- made on a lappet motion, for it takes 
erate-sized plant to be operated con- about ten inches of yarn to weave one 
tinually on staple patterns such as inch of fabric. Instead of a single 
that illustrated The introduction of thread being used for this swivel fig- 
silk into cotton fabrics and woven in ure, there are three ends used in each 
cotton mills offers unlimited oppor- shuttle, but they are not twisted to- 
tunities in various kinds of swivel gether. This allows a better spot to 
work. There is a large opportunity, be made and does not cause streaks 
because these combination fabrics in the fabric when the swivel filling 
have been produced much more ex- is being inserted. The method of ob- 
tensively in the domestic market than taining the weights is as follows: 
they have in foreign mills, in fact, , , 7 , , a . , sn/1 v s , n . _ ft ,., „^,„ >1 , 

±-u„__ i- t. -j. i_ i 2,372 ends ■+■ (80/1 X 840) = .0353, weight 

there have been quite a number of of warp without take-up. 

such cloths exported during the past if c , take - u P in w n e , a c X ln f-» , , u * , 

two years. The prices for such cloth 03 p 5 e 3 r * ven 7ard 368 ' total we,ght ° f wan> 

are naturally high and will remain ?« x 3 = 108 swivel ends. 

so as long as present methods of H!° J a *l' u I ftso'ywdf of swivel yam per 

production continue, but there is a yard of cloth. 

growing demand for fabrics which 1 -» 8 f ° *i& 0/ la?p "Si Z<££\££ 1 We ' Bht 

contain style, and the swivel mecha- 60 picks x 33%" reed width x 36" 

nism makes it possible to decorate a ^ = 2,01 ° 

fabric more extensively than the ordi- yards of filling per vard of cloth, 

nary jacquard mechanism. 2 ' ffl°iin"** ^rn 1 * 840) = ° 251 ' we,ght of 

There are certain features in regard .0368 *+ y oui' + .0251 = .0780. total weight 

to obtaining the weight of the cloth , per vard - „ ,„„„ 

which must be considered carefully, or 10 ( gr°eyt = Per P 

PATTERN. 
2 2 

80/1 Am. combed warp — 2,324 — = 2,372, total ends. 

12 12 

80/1 Am. combed for swivel. 3 ends per shuttle not twisted. 
95/1 Am. combed filling. 60 picks per inch ground. 
Average picks per inch over all 131. 
35 reed; 33%" width In reed, 31%" finished width. 
'4 x 60 ground count; 74 X 131 over all count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton. Labor, waste, etc. 

80/1 Am. combed; 1 7-16" sta. ; 16 hank dou. rov., 23%c. 28Hc. = 61%c. 

95/1 Am. combed; 1 7-16" sta.; 22 hank dou. rov., 23%c. 27%c. =■ 61%c. 

COST. 

2.372 ends 80/1 Am. combed warp -f 4% take-up = .0368 @ 61 %c. = $ .0191 

108 ends 80/1 Am. combed warp -j- 90% take-up = .0161 @ 51 %c. = .0084 

60 picks 95/1 Am. combed filling = .0251 <g> 51 %c. = .0123 

Weaving .0561 

Expenses .0735 

$ .1703 

Shearing .0030 

Bleaching and finishing .0100 

$ .1833 
Selling .0065 

$ .1898 
Selling price (approximate) 25c. 
Domestic retail price 46c. per yard 
Yards per pound (grey) 12. 82. 
86 swivel «huttl*a BMMttry. : 1 I 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



185 



TOBACCO CLOTHS 

One cotton fabric which has a very 
extensive sale and is considered a 
staple line is tobacco cloth. In a gen- 
eral way, this material is not used 
regularly for dresses, but other uses 
create a large demand and keep a 
good many coarse mills with many 
looms continually producing certain 
constructions. The cloth is a light 
one, and is particularly noticeable be- 
cause of its cheapness. To a certain 
extent, it is known as cheese- 
cloth to-day, but because of the use 
for other purposes, it has come to 
be known as tobacco cloth to manu- 
facturers, and the number of construc- 
tions produced varies quite extensive- 
ly from that noted a few years ago. 



this is not the case. In warm climates 
it is not so necessary for ordinary 
houses to be plastered, an! a light 
cloth is used instead, which makes it 
possible for this cloth to be used 
as wall paper in a satisfactory 
manner. A much larger portion of the 
product is used for the above purpose 
than many believe. Another use 
which is rapidly increasing is for 

ANTISEPTIC GAUZE, 

of which tobacco cloth forms 
the foundation. Much more care 
is being used in all kinds of surg- 
ery and similar purposes than ever be- 
fore, and has made a large production 
of these cloths possible. During re- 
cent years there has been quite a large 
distribution of open fabrics for printed 
draperies and similar purposes. All 




:••■: ' 




KigaisiiaiSiSR 



Tobacco Cloth. 



The name cheesecloth undoubtedly 
developed because the material was 
used ior covering cneeses, ana rne 
change in name nas occurr^a on ac- 
count of its greater use for other pur- 
poses. 

Probably the change in name oc- 
curred because a large quantity of 
such cloth is used in the tobaco fields, 
where it serves various purposes and 
is responsible for an improved prod- 
uct. It must not be thought, however, 
that the use in tobacco fields consti- 
tutes the entire distribution, for 



kinds of drapery fabrics have been 
selling well for a number of years, 
and to make it possible to get out fab- 
rics at a low price a low constructed 
material has been used quite success- 
fully. Certain of these draperies are 
sold in quite large volume in the 5 
and 10 cent stores, and it would not 
be surprising if other materials were 
sold in a like manner in the future. 
Certain kinds of fabrics which might 
be ordinarily known as tobacco cloths 
form the foundation for many of the 
cheap printed drapery fabrics recently 



186 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



offered. There are numerous other 
purposes for which more or less of 
such material is used, and altogether 
the sale is quite an important one. At 
certain seasons of the year there is 
a large demand for various kinds 
of cheap bunting. In many of these 
materials tobacco cloths form the 
foundation for the printed results. 
What consumers want is a large yard- 
age for a small outlay, and tobacco 
cloth is about as desirable, if not more 
so, than any other cotton fabric. 
METHOD OF PRODUCTION. 

Tobacco cloth represents what can 
oe done in cloth production at a very 
low corft. In most instances where 
cloth is being made certain ideas as 
to style, effect, or uses determine 
largely what the cost of making or the 
selling price is likely to be. It is sel- 
dom tnat low quanty ciocn is Gesir- 
able, but with tobacco cloth, the main 
features are large quantity and low 
selling price. Because of this fact the 
various machines in the mill are op- 
erated to their greatest capacity with- 
in reason, and the yarns and fabrics 
are not based upon as high a stand- 
ard as for most other fabrics. In 
making the yarn as short a cotton sta- 
ple is used as is possible, and still ob- 
tain a good production. There is a 
certain point beyond which a manu- 
facturer cannot go and still get the 
best results, and this is why yarns of 
even lower quality or shorter cotton 
are not sometimes used. It does not 
pay to make yarns of so low quality 
that the weaving expense increases 
radically, because the cost of material 
in such cloth is a relatively small one. 

In a good many instances, the yarns 
are made from single roving, though 
the product has to be somewhat better 
when automatic weaving machin- 
ery is being used. The produc- 
tion m yards p«r loom Is verv large, 
maiiiiy Decause me cloth construction 
is very low. Inasmuch as plain weave 
will return the firmest fabric for any 
given construction, it can be raid that 
plain weave is invariably used unon 
tobacco cloths. Most of such fabric 
constructions slip quite badly, and this 



makes them impossible of use for 
dress fabrics, even though 

ATTRACTIVE PATTERNS 

might be printed upon them. Pos- 
sibly in the majority of tobacco 
cloth constructions, the ordinary yarns 
which are used in print cloth con- 
structions are noted, that is, approxi- 
mately 28-1 to 30-1 warp, and from 
36-1 to 40-1 filling. For the coarser 
constructions or lower count fabrics, 
coarser yarn sizes are used, as can 
be observed from the weights of the 
various fabrics. Some of the con- 
structions which are sold regularly 
are as follows, though they do not rep- 
resent all of the fabrics which are 
sold. In a general way they represent 
about the highest and lowest construc- 
tions which are regularly sold. For 
the lower count fabrics the- cloth 
weight will vary with different mak- 
ers. 







Yards 








p«Sf 








pound 


cents 


48/44 


36 in. 


7.75 


3% 


48/40 


36 in. 


8.10 


3% 


44/40 


36 in. 


8.50 


3% 


40/40 


36 in. 


9.20 


3% 


44/36 


36 in. 


9.20 


3 


40/36 


36 in. 


9.65 


2 15-16 


40/32 


36 in. 


10.20 


2% 


36/32 


36 in. 


10.50 


2% 


36/32 


36 in. 


11.20 


2 11-16 


32/28 


36 in. 


12.00 


2 7-16 


32/28 


36 in. 


13.00 


2% 


32/24 


36 in. 


13.60 


2 5-16 


28/24 


36 in. 




2 1-16 


26/22 


36 in. 




1 15-16 


24/20 


36 in. 




1 13-16 


22/18 


36 in. 




1 11-16 


20/16 


36 in. 




1% 


2i// 14 


36 in. 




1 7-16 


20/12 


36 in. 




1% 



These fabrics are all in the grey state, 
and the selling prices represent the 
relative difference between the vari- 
ous constructions with cotton selling 
from 13 to 13 1£ cents per pound. It 
will be noted that the constructions 
are sometimes similar, but that the 
weights of the cloths will differ, due 
to the use of different sizes of yarn. 
A good many mills figure their cloth 
prices upon a poundage basis, and rel- 
atively, the selling prices per yard can 
be arrived at upon this basis. 

As previously stated, the weaving 
of the cloth in a successful manner 
depends a good deal upon the yarn or- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



187 



ganization of the plant. If very poor 
yarns are made it will be absolutely 
impossible to run the looms at the 
highest rate of speed at which they 
are capable of being operated, whereas 
if a longer cotton and better yarn be 
made, it will be possible to run the 
looms at a higher speed or to use au- 
tomatic weaving machinery. Un- 
doubtedly, automatic looms are of dis- 
tinct advantage where plain cloth is 
to be made, and where quantity pro- 
duction is of so great importance. A 
fact which a good many manufactur- 
ers overlook is that there is a certain 
balance which is best for each plant. 
In a fabric such as is being described 
it would be a foolish policy to use a 
long staple of cotton to make espe- 
cially good yarn, and to weave the 
cloth on an ordinary loom at a low or 
relatively low speed. Of course, such 
a method of production would result 
in a better looking fabric, but it is 
absolutely certain that a cloth maker 
would not obtain a price which would 
return him a satisfactory dividend. 
There are very few fabrics of this 
character made in which cotton over 
1 1-16 inches in length is used, and it 
is probable that a large majority of 
these cloths contain cotton which is 
one inch or less in length, according 
to the best standards of cotton length. 
There have been some manufacturers 
in the past who 

ADVOCATED AUTOMATIC LOOMS 

for light cloths and a very high 
speed, or one which approached that 
obtainable on ordinary looms. 
Through experience this has been 
found to be a mistaken policy, and 
lower loom speeds are now generally 
adopted, together with cotton which 
seems best at the lower or reasonable 
speeds. 

The fabric which we have 
analyzed is probably one of the 
best tobacco constructions made, in- 
asmuch as it counts 48 x 44, and is 
about as heavy as any fabric regularly 
sold fo" such purposes. The size of 
reed which is used in making any con- 
struction will vary somewhat, depend- 
ing upon the twist in the yarn, the 
length of cotton which has been used 
and whether or not the cloth is woven 
upon an automatic loom. If the cloth 



shrinks a good deal in the weaving op- 
eration a coarser reed will be neces- 
sary, while if there is very little 
shrinkage from reed to c!oth width, 
then a somewhat finer reed will 
be necessary. This difference in reed 
size or dents per inch will not amount 
to very much when the cloth count is 
low, but where there are more threads 
per inch, the shrinkage in weaving 
width becomes of greater importan e. 
We have seen staple fabrics changed 
from ordinary to automatic looms, and 
in a large number of instances new 
reeds had to be obtained, because the 
shrinkage was not identical. 

PRICES AND PROFITS. 

A few facts regarding the prices 
and profits secured upon tobacco 
cloths may be of interest. In the first 
place, to one not conversant with 
manufacturing, the selling price of 
these cloths would seem so low that 
it would not return any profit what- 
ever to the maker. The reason why 
the price is so low is because only a 
small amount of material per yard is 
used and because the production is so 
great that the cost of putting the 
yarns together is relatively a small 
amount per yard. Take the cloth 
which we have analyzed as an illus- 
tration. The mill cost is three and 
four-tenths cents per yard. The mill's 
selling price to-day is three and five- 
eighths cents per yard. This allows a 
profit per yard of somewhat less than 
one-quarter of a cent, or .225 cents 
per yard. On most fancy fabrics this 
small profit would not return a satis- 
factory dividend, and few manufactur- 
ers would feel like operating at such 
a small profit. Due to the large num- 
ber of yards produced per loom, this 
small profit per yard appears much 
more satisfactory when considered 
upon a production basis, and while the 
prices are not especially satisfactory 
to-day, the small amount named will 
return per year a profit of about $36 
per loom. 

Considering the cost of building 
a plant to produce cloth of this 
character the rate of profit upon 
the investment would be about 5% per 
cent. Any concern which has consid- 
ered depreciation in the past, and 
which has a low capitalization per 



188 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



spindle or per loom, would necessarily 
show somewhat larger earnings. All 
of the estimates of cost made are upon 
an ordinary loom basis and wherever 
automatic machinery is used the cost 
would be lower and the rate of profit 
somewhat higher. The total prod- 
uct of mills making tobacco cloth 
is large in yardage, but relatively 
small in value when compared with 
practically all cuer woven materials. 

Inasmuch as tobacco cloth is used 
for different purposes, there is quite a 
variation in the method of finishing, 
though, naturally, results do not vary 
as widely as they do on some of the 
more expensive materials. A large 
amount of this cloth is used in the grey 
state, because low price is the item of 
great importance, and because the 
cloth in the grey state answers the pur- 
pose just as well, and probably better, 
than if it were finished. When it is 
used for covering cheeses it naturally 
is bleacht d and whenever the cloth is 
sold in solid colors it is piece-dyed. 
When the material is used for bunt- 
ing, .t is sometimes piece-dyed, and 
in other instances printed, depending 
upon the results which are desired. 
When the material is to be used for 
antiseptic gauze it naturally has to be 
treated more carefully and, in addition 
to the bleaching process, is subjected 
to further manipulation, which causes 
it to be of an antiseptic character. 
When the fabric is used for draperies 
it is usually bleached, and then print- 
ed with the pattern and colors which 
happen to be in demand at that par- 
ticular season. As a general thing, 
the cloth sells for less than 10 cents 
per yard in the finished state, some of 
it being much lower than the price 
named. There are 

OTHER INSTANCES 

where certain of the low constructed 
tobacco cloths are used for particular 
purposes when the material Is filled 
quite extensively, the substances 



used varying quite a little A 
large percentage of these light-weight 
tobacco cloths are sold in the grey 
state at 36 inches wide, and they are 
also finished t approximately this 
same width, inasmuch as they are 
not usually allowed to shrink very 
much when they are being finished. 
The same conditions are noted in 
finishing as for other kinds of cotton 
cloth, and the method by which they 
are finished will affect the width of 
the cloth when it is ready for sale. 
Naturally, the finisher tries to have 
the fabric look as well as possible, and 
works the cloth in order to make the 
various threads and picks slip into 
their proper places, but due to the low 
construction of most of these fabrics, 
the threads do not remain in their po- 
sitions after the material has been 
used. This is not especially objection- 
able for most purposes where the cloth 
is largely sold. There is nothing of 
particular interest in the method by 
which the yarn weights are obtained, 
though one notable item is ob- 
served in the amount of size which 
remains in the warp yarn after the 
weaving operation is completed. Some 
manufacturers make their warp yarn 
slightly finer than they figure in order 
to take care of the size in the yarn, 
while ethers add a certain percentage 
of weight to the yarn to bring the fig- 
ured cloth weight what it actually is. 
Unless some allowance is made for 
this feature the actual weight of the 
cloth will invariably be heavier than 
the figured weight will indicate. The 
weights are obtained as follows: 

1,748 ends -*- (30/1 X 840) = .0694. weight 

of warp yarn without take-up. 
5% take-up In weaving. 
.0694 -*- .95 = .0731. total weight of warp 

varn per woven yard. 
44plcks X 38 V4" reed width X 36" 

_ <=. 1,694 

36" 

vards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1.694 -+- (36/1 X 840) = .0560, total weight 

of filling per woven yard. 
.0731 + .560 = .1291, total weight per yard. 
1.0000 •+- .1291 — 7.76 yards per pound 

(*rey). 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



1S9 



PATTERN. 

2 2 

j j ™.-« " 1 71(1 •— 1,748, total ends. 

30/1 Am. carded warp — 1.71° g *.'* 

36/1 Am. carded filling. 44 picks per inch. 
Ilvi r¥ed; W reed width, 36" wide grey. 

48 X 44 grey count. YARNS 

Cotton. Labor, waste, etc. 2q 

tfWSVW^HMS + 5% " S ™ = :S"» ? IS? :::::::::::: = ' :$;>? 

Weaving !!!!.*!! - 0041 

Expenses ■ 

$ .0336 

.0004 

Selling (grey) . 

$ .0340 

Mill cost (net) 

$ .03625 

Mill selling price to-day 00226 

Mill profit per yard . ... 

Mill profit per year, per loom, about 5^- 
Rate of profit upon investment, about 6%%. 
Yards per pound, 7.75 (grey). 
Plain weave. 

•» » »■ 

sidered. The pattern analyzed has 

JAGQUARD FILLING HZ<r^J a „T .ST^ 

nmiTCDOTDT V nave been mixed to give a sort of 
KMMolDLTJ grey effect to one surface of the wo- 
ven material. The present season 
Without doubt, one of the best sell- these cotton blankets were sold up 
ing and most important lines of all very e arly, and if reports from dis- 
cotton cloth which might be consid- tributors be believed, there is a much 
ered in a staple class is that which larger demand than there is supply, 
is ordinarily known as cotton blanket Q U it e a number of these fabrics are 
cloth or sometimes from a mill stand- MADE WITH BORDERS 
point as a filling reversible. The man- at either e nd, this giving a finished 
ufacturers who produce these maten- app earance, although it does increase 
als have been especially well sold for the num ber of cards necessary to pro- 
a number of years past, and there is duce the design. The ends of the 
every prospect that the demand will blanket are cut and then bound with 
continually increase. During recent 1 a buttonhole stitch to keep the end 
years, quite a large number of these Qf the cloth from unraveling. Many 
fabrics have been made on jacquard blan k e ts for children's beds are re- 
looms and their uses are quite varied, tailea - at 75 cents each, this price 
though naturally the largest distri growing a somewhat larger profit per 
bution is noted for blankets for van- yard than wnen yarded goods are dis- 
ous purposes. They are also tributed. 

USED FOR BATH ROBES The patterns which are used on 

m ~~i fnnnv rloths of the character described 

in place of the more expensive wool ^^^^iallv intricate, because 

materials and many other purposes are not es. peel any J ni 

where a heavy, soft fabric ia.desirable. the c J^af effects are po.rible. 

The colors which are used do not and only ge ner 1 e 

change radically from year to year, ^.-T^aT would not show prom- 

this being of advantage in producing a great deal ^ worn a 1 p 

th 1 Cl ° th f oottT e fibre ta are e \ V sed in S sTh Inge's would not ap- 
SS? t°o f mSTa ~T shg of pear when tt jj^h « napped.^he 

^•SS&^^t^X SLT^Vose a g p P Ued to most 



190 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of the ordinary cloths, the effects be- 
ing somewhat similar to the large bro- 
caded ones ordinarily made entirely 
from silk, though, because of the cloth 
construction, the result is entirely 
different and not nearly so fine when 
the figure details are considered. 
•Many of the children's bed blankets 
in recent years have been orna- 
mented 

WITH FIGURES OF ANIMALS, 
such as kittens, ducks, dogs and oth- 
ers of a similar nature which are well 
known to children. These styles have 
had a very large sale, and undoubtedly 
will be continually in demand. Many 
consider that the fabric is a double 
one, because one side of the cloth ap- 
pears to be the reverse of the other, 
so far as the color and pattern are 



in ordinary fabrics, is that the weave, 
although it gives the same results, 
changes somewhat 

ON EVERY FOUR PICKS, 
and the threads which operate on the 
first four picks do not work on the 
second four picks, that is, relatively 
speaking. The weave which we illus- 
trate shows this quite clearly. Notice 
that threads one and two in the first 
two picks operate in a twill manner, 
while threads three and four do not 
operate on the first two picks. On 
picks five and six, threads one and 
two do not operate, while threads 
three and four operate somewhat sim- 
ilar to what threads one and two do 
on the trst two picks. It may be 
wondered why this method is adopt- 
ed. For one thing, it binds the cloth 




Jacquard Filling Reversible Fabric. 



concerned. This is not the case, in- 
asmuch as only one warp is used with 
two fillings. The method in which the 
weave is constructed is shown by the 
illustration, of which we are giving a 
number of repeats. It will be noted 
that two picks weave on the face and 
the succeeding two picks weave on 
the back of the cloth, and where the 
figure is formed the ordinary position 
of the various yarns is reversed. One 
point of importance which is worth 
mentioning, and which often Is not 
considered to a great enough extent 



firmly together and makes it much 
stronger when it has been napped. 
For another thing, it causes the same 
number of changes in weave upon 
each warp thread, a fact which is of 
great importance in good weaving and 
which makes but a single warp neces- 
sary. With any radically different 
weave it would be necessary to use 
more than a single warp beam, and 
when this occurs, costs of making In- 
crease along with weaving difficul- 
ties. Because there are so few picks 
per inch, namely only twenty-seven, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



191 



on the face and also on the back of 
the cloth, it is possible to distinguish 
the picks of filling in the material. 
This can be noted only on the figure 
and not on the ground cloth, at least 
It cannot be noted on the side of the 
fabric where the darkest color is 
used, and it is caused by the reversal 
of the two fillings to form the figure. 

THIS REVERSAL OF FILLINGS 

separates the yarn and makes a cer- 
tain amount of streakiness which can- 
not be entirely avoided. Not all fab- 
rics of the character described are 
produced on a jacquard loom, for 
many are made on dobby looms. The 
ground weave, as will be seen from 
the weave illustrations, necessitates 
the use of only four harnesses, with 
two extra for selvages, which makes 
it possible to use quite a good many 
other harnesses in the production of 
dobby figures, although, of course, the 
variety of patterns produced in this 
manner is limited. 

INTERESTING DETAILS. 

There are a large majority of man- 
ufacturers, and probably nearly every 
distributor and consumer, who do not 
realize some of the methods which 
manufacturers of certain cloths adopt 
in order to produce materials at a 
lower cost. Certain manufacturers of 
staple lines use cotton which is 
bleached and dyed before it is han- 
dled, and in this way obtain quite a 
radical reduction in the cost of the 
yarn. Other makers use yarns which 
are dyed fast in stripes and checks, 
and grey yarn In the body 01 tne 
cloth and then piece-bleach this 
material, thus obtaining a lower cost. 
There are undoubtedly shirting fab- 
rics selling in the market which are 
sold by one class of mills at least 5 
cents per yard lower than can be ob- 
tained by another class of mills. Take 
this cloth which we are considering. 
There are certain of such fabrics 
manufactured in which the warp is 
made of unbleached or only half- 
bleached cotton, while the filling is 
made of ordinary bleached and dyed 
yarns. The reason this can be done 
is because the filling is radically 
heavier than the warp, and when the 



cloth is napped, the warp yarn is en- 
tirely covered. This results in a 

LOWER COST OF PRODUCTION, 

and would be overlooked by a good 
many in planning economy. These 
napped fabrics lose a large amount of 
weight, relatively, when they are fin- 
ished. This is because the filling 
forms such a large proportion of the 
cloth weight and the napping process 
affects the heavy filling yarn. Ordi- 
nary napped fabrics may sometimes 
be napped just as hard or harder than 
certain of the blanket cloths consid- 
ered, but there is not so great a dif- 
ference in the total warp and filling 
weight, and therefore a smaller total 
weight lost. A feature of importance 
is that both sides of the fabric are 
napped. This does not occur on a 
good many lines of ordinary fabrics, 
and while it increases somewhat the 
cost of finishing, it is made possible 
by the cloth construction. Practically 
all of these fabrics are made with a 
comparatively small number of 
threads and picks per inch, this be- 
ing necessary Because tne yarns are 
quite heavy and the weave does not 
permit the introduction of any large 
amount of yarn. Of course, there are 
nearly twice as many picks in the 
cloth as would otherwise be possible 

BECAUSE OF THE WEAVE USED, 

but even this does not make the con- 
struction high in comparison with 
many other cotton fabrics. The waste 
which is taken out in certain proc- 
esses of yarn making is often re- 
worked into tabrics sucb as are de- 
scribed. Sometimes China cotton is 
used in miking filling yarn for such 
materials, inasmuch as this cotton has 
a certain amount of harshness which 
is desirable in making the fabric feel 
more like wool. Sometimes the filling 
yarn is made on a mule frame, while 
the warp yarn is spun on a ring frame, 
though this is not always the case. 
The short staple can be handled more 
satisfactorily on the mule, and the 
fact that there is little tension when 
spinning allows a low standard of 
twist to be used, giving a softer yarr 
and a more delicate and desirable fab 
ric. In a good many heavy fabrics ol 



192 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



this character a number of heavy ply 
threads are used on the outside of the 
selvages, in order to make weaving 
more satisfactory with the heavy fill- 
ing. The pull of the filling yarn* is so 
great that it is likely to cause sel- 
vage yarn to break unless it is quite 
strong. Naturally, a box loom is nec- 
essary in order to place in the fabric 
the fillings of different colors. In the 
large majority of instances two picks 
of each color of yarn are used in sue 
cession. 

PROFITS. 

During the present season the prof- 
its secured from the making of cloth 
such as is described have been 
brought to attention about as prom- 
inently as for any other cotton fabric. 
This is because the producing capac 
ity has not been increasing as rapidly 
as the demand. The profits are also 
quite large, because the production of 
the looms is large, due to the com- 
paratively small number of picks per 
inch. It is relatively one of the best 
fabrics from a mill standpoint in the 
domestic market. One of the mill men 
who already makes fabrics of this 
character was overheard to say a 
short time ago that if he were to build 
a new mill to produce any kind of 
cotton fabrics, a plant to make 
blanket cloths would be the kind of a 
mill he would build. A good many 
manufacturers of ordinary fancy 
cloths plan to obtain a profit per yard 
which will allow them to average 
about $2 a loom per week. This re- 
sults in about $100 a loom per year, 
•but it is very likely that comparative- 
ly few succeed in obtaining profits 
which show anything like the amount 
named. These cotton blanket cloths 
often show a rate of profit quite a 
little 

IN EXCESS OF $3 

a loom per week, and there is not 
nearly so much difficulty in producing 
the cloth as there is in producing most 
lines of fancy materials. There is one 
advantage which a great many man- 
uracturers overlook but which is of 
great importance in obtaining profits 
and it is the few changes which are 
necessary when fabrics of this char- 



acter are being made. An ordinary 
fancy mill is likely to make changes 
in fabrics at the end of every beam or 
in a comparatively short time, and the 
quantities of yarn of a certain size are 
relatively small, while in a mill mak- 
ing a staple line the yarn sizes for 
warp and filling do not change, neither 
does the cloth construction change to 
any great extent, the only difference 
being noted in the designs applied to 
the cloth and the colors or combina- 
tions of color which aru made. De- 
signing is a much more simple process 
when the different cloth constructions 
do not vary widely and the operatives 
are more familiar with the various 
processes and difficulties which exist. 

IN A FANCY CLOTH MILL 

where constructions and yarns are al- 
ways changing, difficulties are contin- 
ually arising, and often there is no 
basis upon which to consider the va- 
rious matters, inasmuch as the problem 
Is an entirely new one. When staple 
lines are being made it is much more 
possible to obtain an accurate cost for 
the cloth making, inasmuch as it is a 
more easy matter to apply the various 
expense items exactly where they be- 
long. This is absolutely impossible 
to accomplish on many fancy construc- 
tions at least without an expenditure 
of more money than the saving is 
worth. One of the features which is of 
importance in cloth distribution is that 
prices on these lines may be varied 
according to the season without so 
much difficulty occurring as there does 
on certain of the larger selling lines. 
A half cent advance on certain ging- 
hams will cause a great deal of dis- 
cussion among purchasers, while it 
does not occur so extensively on fab- 
rics such as are described. This mate- 
rial is being distributed at a price 
which is not ordinarily noted. Most 
staple lines are made to sell at a cer- 
tain set price per yard, but this mate- 
rial is evidently constructed in a sim- 
ilar manner to cloths which are used 
in blankets and is sold at the best 
price obtainable, and suc^eedinc: dis- 
tributors let it fall into the price at 
which they can sell it. Thus, fabrics 
somewhat similar to this one are sell- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



193 



Ing at 27 cents, 29 cents and in some 
cases 

AS HIGH AS 35 CENTS 
per yard. They may or may 
not be ol identical construc- 
tion, but so far as the con- 
sumer is concerned, the appearance 
is just as desirable at the lower price 
as it is at the higher one. It may be 




Weave Plan. 

possible that the fabrics are the same 
and the different prices noted he- 
cause of larger purchases or because 
of different ideas as to what a sat- 
isfactory profit should be. The value 



of the yarns which are used in mak- 
ing blanket fabrics forms by far the 
largest portion of the total cost. The 
weaving price per yard is low, due to 
the small number of picks per inch, 
and the various expenses per yard 
are also low due to the same feature. 
Inasmuch as the yarns are dyed when 
they reach the loom there is very little 
finishing necessary, except the nap- 
ping process. 

The method of finding the weights 
of the yarn and thj weight of 
the cloth is rather simple, but it 
must be done in a careful manner or 
else any estimate regarding cloth costs 
will not be correct. The fact that the 
cloth has lost quite a little weight in 
the napping process and that the yarns 
are actually finer than when they were 
spun causes a much lighter material 
with a lower cost for the materials 
used than when the cloth comes from 
the loom. The weights of the yarn are 
obtained as follows: 

1,516 ends -+■ (20/1 X 840) = .0902, warp 

weight without take-up. 
9% take-up in weaving. 
.0902 -T- .91 = .0991, total weight of warp 

per woven yard as it conies from loom. 
64 picks X 30" width in reed X 36" 

= 1.620 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,620 -v- (5/1 X 840) = .3857, total weight 

of filling per woven yard as it comes 

from loom. 
.0991 + .3857 = .4848, total weight per 

yard from loom. 
1.0000 -i- .4848 = 2.06 yards per pound from 

loom. 



20/1 Am. carded warp 



1,484 



PATTERN. 

= 1,516, total ends. 



5/1 Am. carded filling; 64 picks per inch. 
25 reed, 30" width in reed, 27%" finished width. 
64 X 64 finished count. 

YARNS. 



20/1 Am. carded; 1" staple; 4% hank dou. rov., 
5/1 Am. carded; %" staple; .76 hank single rov., 

COST. 

1,516 ends 20/1 Am. carded warp + 9% take-up . 
64 picks 5/1 Am. carded filling 

Weaving 

Expenses 



Cotton. 
13 %c. 
13ttc. 



Labor, waste, 

dyeing, etc. 

7%c. 

10%c. 



.0991 & 21%c. 
.3857 @ 23%c. 



Selling 



Selling price to Jobber (about) 
Selling price to retailer (about) . . , 
Selling price to consumer (about), 

Jacquard weave. 

Yards per pound before napping 2.06. 

Yards per pound finished 2.40. 



21 %c. 
23%c. 



$ .0211 
.0907 
.0163 
.0178 

$ .1459 
.0058 

$ .1517 

$ .1700 
.2000 
.2900 



194 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



MERCERIZED ETAMINE 

Etamines have been used at various 
times in the past in quite large quan- 
tities, though the amount which can 
be sold depends a good deal upon the 
style of cloth selling. They are used 
for almost any purpose where a rather 
heavy and somewhat open material is 
desirable, and when they are in de- 
mand very satisfactory profits and an 
extraordinary distribution takes place. 
For a number of years past there has 
been very little interest in such fab- 
rics, but it would not be surprising if a 
greater quantity of these cloths would 
be soon desirable and another run 
upon them take place. Possibly the 
only reason why there has not been a 
demand for these cloths for some 
years has been because many voiles 
are somewhat similar, and many con- 
sumers would use them for about the 
same purposes, and, therefore, has 
made any great production compara- 
tively impossible. 

Due to the great change which mer- 
cerization has made in the appearance 
of various lines of fabrics the eta- 
mines which would be produced to-day 
when mercerized are a much different 
appearing clotn to those of otiier 
years, and some description regarding 
their method of production would 
seem desirable. The construction of 
the.ckths will 

VARY WIDELY, 

just as it will for any other fancy cot- 
ton mill product, ^ut, as a general 
thing, the threads and picks per 
inch are comparatively few in num- 
ber and the yarns usea o" ueavy size. 
Not only are the yarns neavy, but a 
large percentage of them are of a ply 
character, possibly the majority being 
two or three-ply, though there is 
quite a quantity of these fabrics made 
in which a greater number of tnreads 
are used in making the ply yarn, the 
cloth under discussion being of this 
char^-ter, as it is made of four-ply 
yarn, both warp and filling. There are 
certain features in regard to the pro- 
duction of these cloths which would 
not considered at all by many who 
are quite well acquainted with cloth 
making and the manipulation of yarn 



sizes, and methods of manufacturing 
are likely to create quite a variation in 
the cost of production and the selling 
prices. The faLric analyzed was made 
from Egyptian cotton and its method 
of construction creates a nigh rela- 
tive cost, but somewhat similar lines 
can be produced which, to ordinary 
lionsumers, might be just about as sat- 
isfactory, and at a much lower cost. 

CONSTRUCTION FEATURES. 

These fabrics are made from heavy 
yarns and with a low count, and, 
therefore, any kind of a fancy weave 
is seldom employed in their manufac- 
ture, inasmuch as any weave creates 
a loose fabric and the effect does not 
show up in a very desirable manner. 
Patterns placed upon heavy cloth are 
even more unsatisfactory than those 
placed upon very fine cloth, and ev- 
eryone knows that usually it is not 
worth while to make fancy figures up- 
on very fine yarn materials. Due to 
the low count, a plain weave is practi- 
cally always employed, as this creates 
the firmest fabric and gives better re- 
sults. One feature which is well 
worth mentioning is that even though 
plain weave is employed, there is a 
distinct twill effect noted upon the fin- 
ished cloth, this being caused by the 
•heavy character of the yarn as the 
various threads interweave back ana 
forth. At one time it was considered 
necessary to make any kind of yarn 
which was to be mercerized, either be- 
fore or after weaving, out of Egyptian 
cotton, in order to get satisfactory re- 
sults. This is not so true to-day, for 
the improvement in mercerization has 
been so great that practically as good 
results can be obtained from 1%-inch 
cotton to-day, as could be ootained 10 
years ago from 1%-inch cotton. The 
saving in this one feature alone is of 
great importance, and while we have 
civen the cost of the cloth as made, 
nevertheless it is entirely probable 
that most manufacturers would make 
the cloth analyzed from American 
rotton of a much shorter staple. 
Shorter cotton costs less and in addi- 
tion creates a much 

SMALLER LOSS FOR WASTE. 

not only because of lower price, but 
also because there is likely to be a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



195 



smaller percentage of short fibres in 
cotton of shorter length. There is a 
very great difference in appearance 
noted in various etamine cloths caused 
by the irregularity in the threads 
and picks per inch, but there is also a 
great difference in appearance which 
is caused by the number of threads 
used in the ply yarn, and in the 
amount of twist per inch which is in- 
serted. In the fabric analyzed the 
amount of twist and the number of 
threads in the ply yarn have a distinct 
influence upon the result, because the 
twist in the yarn seems to form small 
checked patterns which are seldom 
visible in any other kind of a finished 
fabric, and sometimes are very desir- 
able. Until the cloth is examined and 
analyzed it would seem a^ if there 



mine can be produced and these vari- 
ous methods have quite an influence 
upon the cost of production. First, 
the fabric can be made from yarns 
which have been mercerized and dyed 
before they are woven. In this case 
no finishing is necessary, as the term 
is ordinarily known when speaking of 
grey cloth. Second, the fabric can be 
made entirely from grey yarns and 
then piece-dyed and mercerized. This 
method in some fabrics gives a lower 
cost and just as desirable results, but 
it is questionable whether it would 
give as desirable results in the cloth 
analyzed, although it undoubtedly 
would cause a lower cost. In this con- 
nection it might be well to state that 
both the warp and filling are mercer- 
ized in this cloth, whereas in many 




Mercerized Etamine. 



was a very much higher count than 
actually exists. The direction of twist 
in the ply yarn also has an influence 
on the result, because when both warp 
and filling are twisted in the same 
direction the various squares seem 
more prominent, whereas when the 
warp is twisted in one direction, and 
the filling in an opposite direction the 
various threads in the ply yarn seem 
to correspond more closely in the 
warp and filling, and the small squares 
do not appear so prominent. 

METHODS OF PRODUCTION. 

There are quite a number of ways 
in which a dyed and mercerized eta- 



fabrics only the warp or the filling, as 
the case may be, is the portion which 
shows the mercerization effects. 

The improvement in mercerization 
during the past few years has made 
this method much more satisfactory 
than it previously was, and for many 
fabrics of the character described, no 
other method could be adopted. 
Third, this method consists of using 
yarn which has been mercerized but 
not dyed before the weaving operation. 
When the weaving is completed the 
grey fabric made from mercerized 
yarns is bleached and then piece-dyed 
in whatever color seems most desir- 
able. This method, while being 



196 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



somewhat more expensive than 
the second method described, is, 
nevertheless, responsible for the warp 
and filling having exactly the same 
amount of luster, a feature which is 
sometimes of importance where warp 
and filling are both as prominent as 
in the cloth considered. In any of 
these methods of construction there 
is very little difference in the actual 
cloth production, for the yarn is strong 
enough so th^t practically no break- 
ages occur in weaving, the operation 
of changing shuttles being the one 
which consumes practically the entire 
time of the operative. If such cloths 
are to be produced in quite large 
quantities, and more or less continu- 
ously, it is a very good plan to adopt 
methods whereby a large amount of 
yarn can be placed upon the filling 
bobbins, so as to make the loss from 
shuttle changing as small as possible, 
and also to make as large a number 
of looms per weaver as possible. Even 
though this be done the number of 
looms which can be operated i3 some- 
what smaller than for most other fab- 
rics. 

PLY YARN MAKING. 

Many might consider that the 
making of ply yarns is a simple mat- 
ter, and this is often true for medium 
sizes of such yarns where only two 
ground threads are used, but difficul- 
ties increase as the number of ground 
threads are increased and as the ne- 
cessity becomes greater for all of 
these various threads to be present in 
the finished ply yarn. In a good many 
mills stop motions are used where 
two-ply yarns are made, which stop 
the operation of the rolls when one 
end breaks. In other plants it is the 
custom to make the twist in the yarn 
such an amount that if one thread 
breaks down the untwisting of the re- 
maining thread will be enough for the 
traveler to break down the thread 
which lemains. When three or more 
ground threads are being twisted the 
breaking of one will not stop tha twist- 
ing operation, and whenever an op- 
erative is looking after quite a num- 
ber of spindles it might be that the 
ply yarn was made for some time 
with one of the ground threads miss- 
ing. Whenever this occurs, and this 



yarn is not eliminated, it is likely to 
cause streaks in the cloth, and spoil 
otherwise valuable material. 

SECONDS CAUSE LOSSES. 

Any large amount of seconds in 
fancy cloth may cause large losses, 
which make the production of sucn 
fabrics much less desirable than costs 
indicate, inasmuch as seconds cannot 
be sold at anything like the price for 
firsts when any large quantity is 
made. To obviate any difficulty when 
ply yarns are being made certain ma- 
chines have been developed which 
place together the various ground 
threads, but do not insert any twist 
whatever. On these frames there is 
a stop motion on every ground 
thread, which makes it certain that 
the ply yarn which is produced will 
always contain the correct number of 
threads. When spools are filled with 
these ply threads which are not twist- 
ed, they are taken to the twisting 
frame and the correct amount of twist 
inserted, but all the threads in the 
ply yarn come off of a single spool 
upon the twisting frame instead of 
coming off of three, four or more 
spools as the case may be. Although 
the cost of placing these yarns upon a 
spool is relatively high, nevertheless 
the results obtained in a lower twist 
ing cost and in a smaller number ol 
seconds more than warrants the in- 
stallation of such a process, at least 
where anything but the cheapest cloth 
is being produced. 

ANOTHER FEATURE 

which is of importance in yarn pro- 
duction is that a high percentage of 
production should be obtained, largely 
because a long staple of cotton is used 
for a relatively coarse size of yarn. 
There are very few fabrics where 
anything over one-inch staple would 
be used for a yarn which is as coarse 
as 16-1. It is also possible to make 
yarn with a lower standard of twist 
than that normally used, just because 
the staple is longer than necessary 
for the size of yarn being made. This 
lower standard of twist is of impor- 
tance, inasmuch as it makes a greater 
amount of luster when the yarn la 
mercerized. The less twist there is in 
yarn or the straighter the various cot- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



197 



ton fibres lie when woven, the better 
is the result produced when the yarn 
or cloth is mercerized. This is why 
soft twist yarn is used in the warp 
when warp yarn is mercerized in 
cloths similar to poplins, and is also 
the reason why soft tv/ist filling yarn 
is used in mercerized shirting fabrics 
of a wide variety. 

BALANCE OF ORGANIZATION. 

There are a great many problems 
which come up when different kinds 
of fancy cotton fabrics are being pro- 
duced, but none of them have any 
more serious effect upon profits than 
the correct balance of the whole plant. 
This subject is not considered care- 
fully enough by a good many mill men 
and possibly by a majority of those 
who sell the cloth, inasmuch as they 
often know very little regarding the 
actual effect which the accepting of 
any order will have on the operation 
of the various machines. Take a fab- 
ric like that analyzed for an example 
when it has been produced from a cot- 
ton such as that noted. Up to the 
roving machinery the methods em- 
ployed will be somewhat similar to 
those ordinarily seen when medium or 
fine yarns are to be made. At the 
point mentioned a great difference 
is noted, for few fly-frame processes 
are necessary, and the roving instead 
of being of fine size in order to make 
fine yarns must be of coarse size to 
give the best results. 

On the spinning frame the produc- 
tion instead of being small, as would 
be noted for the length of cotton be- 
ing used, is quite large, due to the low 
count of yarn and also to the some- 
what lower than normal standard of 
twist. If this coarse yarn is made on 
a spinning frame which has been run- 
ning on coarse varns, that is, a frame 
with rings of ouite erood size, the spin- 
ning frame rolls will have to be reset 
in order to handle a longer staple of 
cotton. If frames with small rings 
only are available then there are diffi- 
culties because of the small amount 
which a bobbin will hold. Due to the 
large production on the spinning 
frame, a relatively small number of 
spindles in comparison to carding and 
other machinery is necessary, and of- 
ten the making of such yarn will cause 



idle spinning machinery. Due to the 
coarse size of roving necessary one 
and sometimes more processes of fly- 
frames are eliminated, and usually 
there is no other work to keep such 
idle machinery in operation. The 
STRENGTH OF THE YARN 
and other conditions permit of large 
pioduction on machines which sue 
cteu the spinning uawe, and this caus- 
es stoppage of machinery and other 
difficulties. There are many mill men 
who never consider idle machinery in 
the cost of any cloth, and whne this 
is a difficult problem, nevertheless 
there are a good many cloths on 
which some provision should be made 
if anything like correct results are to 
be obtained, if one-thiru of the spin- 
ning machinery is idle, the remainder 
must earn laige enough profits to 
make the dividends of a satistactory 
character. 

Another feature which must be con- 
sidered when a cloth such as that ana- 
lyzed is being made is that the yarn 
will have to be spun and twisted and 
then shipped to some other plant to 
be mercerized in the majority of in- 
stances. This will make delivery 
dates uncertain and will increase the 
cost of production quite radically if 
the yarn does not happen to be avail- 
able at the time necessary. This has 
been one of the main reasons why 
certain silk sellers have been able to 
obtain a large portion of the silk busi- 
ness of cotton mills, for they keep silk 
always available, so that no machinery 
is idle. Of course, it is the duty of 
the seller to see that ample provision 
is made when orders are accepted, but 
unsatisfactory delivery causes many 
troubles, and even if damage suits are 
instituted they seldom compensate for 
losses which are incurred. "When fab- 
rics vary radically from season to 
season, and from month to month, or 
when every order may be of a differ- 
ent character, it takes a 

GREAT DEAL OF ABILITY 
on the part of a soller to keep machin- 
ery operating in full. Sometimes it is 
a good plan to sell certain fabrics at 
cost when they are necessary for eco- 
nomical operation f the plant instead 
of accepting orders for some other 
kind of fabric which ordinarily would 



198 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



show a satisfactory profit. Recently 
this organization problem has been il- 
lustrated clearly by conditions in 
many fine goods mills. In these plants 
not over 80 per cent of the looms and 
some other machinery have been op- 
erating, while cards and certain other 
machines have been running full and 
in some cases overtime. Not only is 
an intimate knowledge of mills in gen- 
eral and the one sold in particular 
necessary, if the best profit be se- 
cured, but it is also necessary to have 
accurate records kept regarding the 
various machines in the plant. Un- 
less this be done trouble will surely 
result with delivery dates uncertain 
and friction between buyers and sell- 
ers. 

THE OBTAINING OF PROFITS. 

One feature which has not been 
brought to attention during recent 
years has been that a large proportion 
of the cloths made have been cf rather 
low constructions. This fact has al- 
lowed quite a large production to oc- 
cur on the looms, and makes satisfac- 
tory mill dividends when a **ery small 
profit per yard is secured. Take 
voiles for an example. On many of 
these fabrics one-half to three-quar- 
ters of a cent per yard would be re- 
sponsible for an excellent mill show- 
ing, while on certain kinds of sateens 
and shirtings, the same amount of 
profit per ya'-d would be rather unsat- 
isfactory from a mill standpoint. 

With competition as keen as it has 
been and the demand in yardage rath- 
er subnormal, there would not have 
been as satisfactory a mill condition 
as exists to-day, if higher constructed 
fabrics have been in demand. It is 
also probable that the number of 
looms which have been operating have 
been able to produce as many, if not 
more, yards of cloth than was former- 
ly produced when operating in full. 
Although the percentage of produc- 
tion is not quite as high when some 
of the low pick materials are being 
made, nevertheless the construction 
of the cloth has been responsible for 
a distinct gain in yardage per loom 
oMninpd. Take the cloth analyzed. 
This has onlv 24 picks per inch when 
woven, and this fact makes it possible 
for a very large yardage per loom 



to be obtained in comparison to many 
of the fancy fabrics which have some- 
times been in demand. Even when 
compared with voiles and crepes, the 
production is quite a little larger in 
yards produced. Due to the above 
fact the amount of profit per yard nec- 
essary to pay a reasonable dividend 
seems incredibly small, when com- 
pared with the profits which retailers 
and others often find to be necessary. 

We have given the cost of making 
the fabric analyzed and its approxi- 
mate selling prices. It is entirely 
probable that a construction of a 
similar character could be made from 
shorter cotton and sold to retail at 
35 cents per yard, or even less. To a 
consumer such a construction would 
be just as desirable as that analyzed. 
In fact, it is questionable whether the 
cotton used in this fabric adds any- 
thing whatever to the finished result. 
This question of cotton for any fabric 
is one which has never been con- 
sidered as carefully as it might be. 

A subject which in some cases 
CAUSES DIFFICULTIES 
is the fact that ply yarns may 
shrink or stretch according to 
the twist which is being inserted. If 
a single yarn sizes 20-1 and when 
twisted two ply sizes relatively 9.5-1, 
it makes a lot of difference in the cost 
of the cloth than if it sized 10.5-1. If 
either occurs and provision is not 
made for it the proper cost is not ob- 
tained, and if the cloth is heavy the 
profit figured is not being obtained, 
while if the cloth is light an extra 
profit is being secured. Some manu- 
facturers spin their single yarns so as 
to produce a certain sue of yarn when 
they are twisted and in this case the 
problem is very simple. When this 
ply yarn variation has been satisfac- 
torily settled the method of finding the 
weights of yarn and cloth is very 
simple, and is as follows: 

720 ends h- (16/4 X 840) = .2143. weight 

of warp per yard without take-up. 
7 % take-un in WP^ving. 
.2143 -i- .93 = .2304, total weight of warp 

yarn por woven vrirrl. 
24 picks X 29%" reed width X 36" 

= 708 

36" 

yds. of filling per woven vnrd. 
70S h- OS/4 X 840) = .2107. total weight 

"' fi'Mper per woven vnrd. 
.2304 + .2107 = .4411, total weight per yard. 
l.onnn ^ .4411 = 2 .27 yards per pound 

(rrey). 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



199 



PATTERN. 
16/4 Eg. mercerized warp 12 696 12 = 720, total ends. 
16/4 Eg. mercerized filling. 24 picks. 

24 reed; 29 y 2 " width in reed, 28" grej width, 27" finished width. 
26 X 23 finished count. 

YARN. 

Labor, waste, 
twisting, 
mereeriz- 
Cotton. ing, etc. 
16/4 Eg. combed warp and filling; 1%" sta. ; 3*4 hank dou. rov., 22c. 16%c. = 38%c. 

CLOTH COST. 

720 ends 16/4 Eg. combed mercerized warp + 7% take-up... = .2143 <g> 38%c. == I .0831 

M picks 16/4 Eg. combed mercerized filling = .2107 <y) 38%c. = .0817 

Weaving .0064 

Expenses .0052 

$ .1764 
Selling (grey) .0035 

$ .1709 

Mill selling price (approximately) $ .1775 

Finishing, dyeing, etc .0150 

$ .1925 

Converter's price (about) % .2750 

Jobbers price (about) .3250 

Retailer s price .4600 

Yards per pound 2.27 (grey). 

Plain weave. 

♦-»-♦ 

TEWfi fTTDDm ODftT TYD170C! for tlie introduction of heavy filling. 
LlillU llLilllilJ Of Ul UIIIjijO As previously mentioned, the cloths 

are 

rnnnc made from yarns 

UuUJukJ which would be considered of fine 

There is one line of cloth which is cnaracter b ? the majority of manufac- 
inere is one me oi cioin wnicn is turers This is necessary beccuse the 

S a ?%S,pK? e W T iet ? f? d . I C effec * s Produced are made through the 
Sr f^w T ay S ° f a *, 16ht CharaC " contrast of a fine ground fabric with 
ter, having a more or less regular , figures Naturallv varns 

fn S r gcoS^a^tstncTs "at XVK'alSy arf esse^r 
£»' a S r C e° d ^ZZ "bf "special^names ^ S^^nt of bS£S5S 
which are likely to change in different n fi neVrns s particularly TotiSie 

™£wnVt£™£n*£ loim When ™™ int ° cklMl ' especially if 
tl% if™ \™%L %/ a JL?,n* ~T that cloth be largely woven with plain 
and leno product. The ground con- weave 

structions of the fabrics do not vary HEAV" ' YARN 

widely from season to season, though . usuallv necessarv for the heavv 
the effects may differ quite radically. 1S usuall y necessary ror tne neavy 
Thev are used for spots, because this creates a distinct 

contrast with the light and semitrans- 
WAISTINGS AND DRESSES parent ground. In some cases the 

of various kinds, and although the ya ™ ^! cn forms . th f e s P ot , s " , or the 

orders are for smaller quantities extra filling yarn, is of a dyed charac- 

than a eonrl manv manufacturers nsri- ter ' but ln otlier cases lfc ls entirely 

ally pi g oduce ma ne y verth Ye'sf they ""e white and probably the greatest por- 

„r,X „t **,„ f A„;„„ „,i,;„i, „umiA tm,™ tion of these cloths are made and 

one of the fabrics which should form , , . , .. . . „, . . , 

a portion of the staple business of a t s . old m f f w1l,t ff e s t tate ' T1 l e ^troduc- 

fancy mill using fine yarns. They do tlon of . len0 e 1 ffects ; even Ul ™ gh of a 

not require machinery of an especially very simple character, sometimes 
complicated character, for they can be ADDS A GREAT DEAL 

made on an ordinary dobby loom, to the attractiveness of the result, in- 

which is equipped with a box motion asmuch as it makes possible an en- 



200 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tirely different effect, and creates an 
impression of a much more open fab- 
ric than actually exists. Sometimes 
changes can be made very easily in 
the patterns produced, and it is not 
always necessary to redraw warps or 
to have a different cloth construction 
in order to obtain various effects. 
This is noted because the warp is 
made entirely from one kind of yarn, 
whereas the 

BOX LOOM MOTION 

is responsible for the figure and can 
be changed much easier than if the 
pattern were made in the warp. Ef- 
fects in great variety are made by tne 
combination of the two weaves men- 
tioned, and it forms the basis for a 
large sale of what might be termed 



the cotton which is used for any size 
of yarn must be longer than when 
grey yarns are being used au often 
very different methods have to be 
used in order to obtain satisfactor. 1 
results. When new dyestuffs were de 
veloped, which would stand the 
bleaching process, it made possible 
another method of production, which 
undoubtedly gives a 

LOWER COST 

of prod action, and eliminates certaiD 
of the difficulties and many of the 
processes previously necessary. This 
does not mean that all manuf-cturers 
have adopted such a method to-day 
but it means that an increasing num 
ber of such cloths will be made fron 
grey yarns and with iast color spots 






HKIOc 
■ »■■•■■■ 


i 


. 


lllfr : 


:M' : al|S|p 


r *\ ' 


:;""'' 







Leno Clipped Spot Dress Goods. 



one of the fanciest varieties of cotton 
fabric made with ordinary equipment. 
Until a few years ago it \va:; possi- 
ble to make effects such as are seen 
in the sample analyzed in only one 
manner, this being through the use of 
bleached and dyed yarns. Few manu- 
facturers of fabrics realize the diffi- 
culties which exist when fine yarns 
are bleached, dyed, and then woven 
into fabrics. In the first place, the 
various processes which are necessary 
make the cost of such clo'hs ex- 
cessive, and limit the sale to 
a great extent. For another thing, 



The reason for thir is that the use 01 
grey yarns, whi ^h are stronger than 
when bleached and handled, gives a 
greater percentage of production and 
a lower cost. It eliminates many of 
the troubles which occur when 

FINE BLEACHED YARNS 

are used, and, in a good many in- 
stances, is undoubtedly responsible for 
a much better finished fabric. For 
practically all fabrics, such as are be- 
ing described, a plain weave ground is 
used, because fine yarns vould slip 
badly with a low construction if any 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



201 



woven figure were used. Then, woven 
figures do not show any great contrast 
ana are not especially effective when 
made entirely from fine yarn, and 
with no heavy yarns used in addition. 

FIRMNESS 

is also an essential characteristic in 
any fabric which is to be used for 
dress goods, and to give this firmness 
with a low count it is necessary to use 
plain weave, or at least some simple 
weave. Inasmuch as most of the sim- 
ple weaves do not show any particu- 
larly desirable effects on fine cloths, 
it happens that plain weave practical- 
ly always forms the ground. All of 
these light fabrics are, however, fab- 
rics in which 

STRONG CONTRAST 

usually exists, and these contrasts are 
brought about by the line yarn ground 
and the heavy spots o - figures which 
are made by the box loom motion. 
The introduction of various small leno 
figures is desirable, inasmuch as they 
offer some contiast to the ground cloth. 
Due to their small nature, it does not 
slip badly and so is satisfactory. One 
of the noticeable features in these 
cloths is the way the effects are pro- 
duced. The arrangement of the leno 
and heavy yarn figures is often re- 
sponsible for the success or failure of 
any pattern, and the combination of 
them produces effects which to many 
seem more complicateu than most oth- 
er kinds of woven cloth. These kinds 
of cloths are being developed quite ex- 
tensively in foreign mills at present, 
with allover figures and with leno 
and plain weave grounds. Undoubted- 
ly domestic mills will attemi t to pro- 
duce fabrics somewhat similar, but 
they are 

NOT EQUIPPED 

at all extensively with jacquards in 
combination with the leno attachment, 
and for this reason the figures pos- 
sible are very limited. It only re- 
quires ten harnesses for the produc- 
tion of the box loom spot, and these, 
in addition to the harnesses which 
weave leno and those which form the 
plain ground, complete the number 
necessary. In many of such fabrics it 
Is only essential to have two harness- 



es for plain weave, inasmuch as the 
leno and box loom portions of the 
cloth 

ELIMINATE DIFFICULTIES 

from overcrowding of heddles on the 
ground fabric harnesses. The warp 
yarn would have to be placed upon 
two different beams in order to be 
woven satisfactorily, inarmuch as the 
leno portion is likely to have a Affer- 
ent pink up than t^u 1 , portion wnere 
ground cloth is being made. In dome 
kind? of leno it is i.. cessary to h-».vo 
two beams extra for the leno, but in 
this case it is not necessary, as the 
ground and crossing threads in the 
leno take up identical amounts. 

INGENUITY IN DEVELOPING. 

Just how the fabric is developed 
will have a large amount of influence 
upon the results obtained, and this is 
one reason why a certain portion of 
the foreign fabrics made show better 
results. Domestic makers are very 
liable to slight fabric details when 
they are developing ideas, and con- 
sider quantity of more importance 
than quality. This, however, is not of 
advantage when it comes to selling 
cloth, neither does it aid very much in 
getting off the 

LARGEST PERCENTAGE 

of production. In the fabric consid- 
ered, it is necessary to use a reed 
where four ends are drawn in dent be- 
cause of the leno weave. Of course, it 
would be possible to use a 36-reed, 
and wherever the leno is made, to re- 
move the wire so that there would be 
four ends per dent, but this practice 
spoils the reed and is not especially 
desirable where small quantities of 
any fabric are to be made. In addition 
to spoiling the reed other 

UNDESIRABLE RESULTS 

would be produced, which would not 
be considered of importance by those 
not experienced. In a cloth like that 
analyzed if one portion contains four 
ends per dent, and another portion 
two ends per dent, the reed marks 
would not be so prominent in one part 
as in another part of the cloth, and 
buyers would object to the streaky ap- 



202 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



pearance produced. They would criti- 
cize the results, and it would be 

VERY HARD TO EXPLAIN 

why the same effect could not be pro- 
duced throughout the entire fabric. 
Under such conditions it is tetter to 
have the whole fabric showing promi- 
nent reed marks than '. is to have 
only one portion of the cloth particu- 
larly noticeable in this direction. This 
is the reason why an 18-reed was used 
with four ends per dent rather than a 
36-reed with the ground portion drawn 
in two threads per dent. It makes a 
great deal of difference where the 

HEAVY SPOTS 

are introduced into the cloth, and it 
is one of the most important things 
when developing a cloth tu introduce 
these spots where they wi i show up 
well, and, in addition, where they will 
cause little difficulty in the weaving 
operation. The operation of the leno 
threads and the introduction of heavy 
filling in one portion of a fabric and 
not in other portions is very likely to 
cause very bad streaks; in fact, in 
some patterns it is 

ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE 

to eliminate some of the bad features. 
Whenever such cloths are being wo- 
ven, careful weaving and loom setting 
will be responsible for a great differ- 
ence in the effect produced. In order 
to aid in obtaining a regular ground 
cloth, it is the usual practice to use 
heavy filling with soft twist, either in 
single yarn or when 2-ply is used. A 
low standard of twist allows the 
ground picks to be driven in closer, 
and he!ps to eliminate the tendencies 
to streakiness. 

THICK AND THIN PLACES 

are one of the greatest difficulties 
noted when fine yarn fabrics deco- 
rated with heavy spots are being 
made. It is necessary to lift the take- 
up paw] so that the cloth will not 
weave down and leave a thin place 
when the heavy yarn is being inserted. 
It often happens that the pawl must 
be raired before the heavy filling is 
inserted, in order to eliminate diffi- 
culty, and sometimes the pawl is 
raised many more times at the start 



of a spot than it is when the last por- 
tion of the figure is being made. 

MECHANICAL DIFFICULTIES 
and the variation in yarn and pattern 
are responsible for this practice, and 
any dilncuities are usually adjusted at 
the loom in order to produce the best 
effect possible. Because this take-up 
pawl is raised the number of picks per 
inch are greater than the pick gear 
used would indicate. To get the aver- 
age number of picks per inch some- 
times causes a good deal of difficulty, 
because the take-up in the fabric may 
vary somewhat. The 

VARIOUS LENO THREADS 

operate in a plain manner when they 
are not crossing back and forth. In 
each leno effect there are four threads, 
and when open work is being made 
two of these threads cross over the 
remaining two threads and stay in 
their position while three picks are 
being inserted. To anyone who is at 
all familiar with leno work, the meth- 
od of producing such a weave is very 
simple. It only requires that the two 
crossing threads be drawn 

THROUGH THE LOOP 
of the doup instead of the single 
heavy end so often noted. Instead of 
having these two crossing threads op- 
erate with one or more ground 
threads, they operate upon two ground 
threads which, when leno is not being 
made, weave in a plain manner. One 
feature which is worth noting is that 
the cloth is practically always woven 
face down. This is done because it 
allows a 

MUCH SMALLER PORTION 

of the warp yarn to be lifted when the 
figure is being made than if the cloth 
were woven face up. The lifting up 
of a smaller portion of tne face yarn 
is likely to eliminate a portion of the 
streaking tendencies. This cloth 
and many others of a similar 
character can be woven with the 
face ur\ but it is seldom made in 
this manner. One objection to weav- 
ing a fabric face down is that it does 
not neimit the operative to see the 
portion of the cloth which is to be the 
face when finished, and as everyone 
knows, there are often places which 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



203 



can be improved by the operative 
when seen, but which often slip by 
when they are on the back of the 
cloth. 

PROCESSES AFTER WEAVING. 

A process which is seldom noted on 
ordinary cotton fabrics, but which is 
necessary in order to create attrac- 
tive results on fabrics sucn as that 
analyzed, is the shearing of the heavy 
yarn from the fabric, when it is not 
producing a figure on the face of the 
cloth. The heavy filling floats from 
one figure to the next repeat across 
the width of the fabric, and these long 
floats would be very undesirable to 
consumers when made into a garment. 
To eliminate this difficulty they are 

CLIPPED OFF 
by machine. Manufacturers much 
prefer to produce clipped spots by the 
box loom method, inasmuch aa it is a 
comparatively easy process to cut off 
filling floats when the cloth is woven. 
As the cloth passes through the ma- 
chine it is much easier for the knives 
to be inserted under filling floats than 
under warp floats. One of the great 
difficulties in making certain kinds of 
clipped spot figures is to get Uie va- 
rious floats long enough so that the 
knives can operate. In most cases it 
is necessary to give the fabric 
A NUMBER OF RUNS 
upon the shearing machine, in order 
to get the spots properly sheared. In 
a good many instances, the first proc- 
ess merely consists in cutting the va- 
rious floats, and succeeding processes 
brush up the clipped ends and permit 
the shears to cut the ends down close 
to the woven figure. The arrangement 
of the pattern has much to do with 
the success of the shearing operation. 
When detached small figures are 
made there is usually little difficulty, 
but whpre laree allover figures are 
woven there are likely to be small 
places where the knives will not work 
and the openwork effects are not pro- 
duced. 

REGULATING PROFITS. 

All of these various fabrics must be 
made carefullv and in addition sold 
carefully, if the best results be se- 
cured, and if a satisfactory profit be 
made. The production in yards is 



comparatively small per loom, because 
it is box loom work where a low loom 
speed is noted, and, in addition, the 
percentage of production is likely to 
be radically lower than for ordinary 
fabrics, because of 

THE LENO MOTION 
with the use of fine yarns. These 
fabrics are ones where information 
in regard to particular fabrics is of 
value, for various small features have 
a great influence upon the cost of pro- 
duction. The use of good cotton is al- 
ways to be recommended, because 
the costs for material are relatively 
small, and the costs for labor relative- 
ly high. Sometimes the introduction 
of a longer cotton will save much 
more than its cost through greater 
percentage of production at the loom. 
This is regardless of the fict that bet- 
ter yarn and better cloth are made, 
and a 

BETTER FINISHED RESULT 
produced. Sometimes the use of bet- 
ter yarn will permit a greater number 
of looms per operalive to be run. The 
fact that ouite a little leno is used, to- 
gether with the box loom motion, 
makes it necessary for many fewer 
looms per operative to be noted, and 
this increases the cost of weaving 
quite radically. A good many manu- 
facturers do not like to make such 
fabrics for this very reason, inasmuch 
as it makes many more weavers nec- 
essary f >r the number of looms oper- 
ated and these weavers are 

NOT ALWAYS AVAILABLE 
and any further change in fabric style 
makes them again unnecessary. This 
brings un the fact that an experienced 
seller will manipulate the orders re- 
ceived 'n such a manner as to k3ep all 
of the help employed continually, this 
being of great imporfance when prof- 
its are concerned. When fabrics vary 
widely in character, it is absolutely 
necessary to have some reasonably 
accurate method of obtaining the cost, 
and where the number of picks per 
inch 

WILL DIFFER WIDELY, 
and yarn sizes of a variable nature be 
used, the average production method 
so often noted is certain to give inac- 
curate results. The cloths are usually 



204 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



finished in a crisp manner, but there 
is comparatively little difficulty when 
the cloth is woven and sheared. Due 
to the fine character of the yarns there 
is a very small take-up in the weaving 
process, and there is also a much 
smaller shrinkage in width than for 
other heavier fabrics where the yarn 
shows a greater amount of curvature. 
One of the most difficult problems 
when 

ANALYZING A FABRIC 
of this character is to estimate the 
size of the yarn which has been used 
for making the clipped spou. When- 
ever wide figures are made, it is usu- 
ally possible to take from the fabric 
pieces of heavy yarn which can be 
easily compared with others and be es- 
timated quite accurately. But when 
the figures are very small, this is not 
so easy, and the estimated yarn size 



may vary from what was actually 
used. When this has been accom- 
plished, there is 

NO GREAT DIFFICULTY 
in obtaining the cloth weight as it 
comes from the loom. Few care 
about the weight in a finished state, 
and for this reason the weight is sel- 
dom obtained when the fabric has 
been sheared. To find the average 
yarn size upon which the new rates of 
duty are ascertained is not so easy a 
problem as many have considered it to 
be, and there is likely to be a great 
amount of trouble when average yarn 
sizes for such cloths come anywhere 
near the dividing line. Due to the 

VARIATION IN SHEARING 

and other features, there are likely to 
be no two portions of the cloth simi- 
lar, and no average obtaineu which 
will be at all accurate. The method 



PATTERN. 

2 2 

60/1 Am. combed warp — 2,144 — = 2.192, total ends. 

12 12 

75/1 Am. combed filling. 70 picks ground. 
40/2 Am. combed filling. 10% picks figure. Dyed. 
18 reed; 30" width in reed; 2Sy 2 " finished width. 
76 X 86 V4 over all finished count. 



TARNS. 

Labor, waste, 
twisting, 
cnn a t j. - ., » Cotton. dyeing, etc. 

60/1 Am. combed; 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov.. 22c. 19%c. = 41V6c. 

75/1 Am. combed; 1%" sta.; 17 hank dou. rov., 22c. 21c = 43c 

40/2 Am. combed; ly 8 " sta.; 8 hank dou. rov., 16^c. 28%c. = 44%c. 

COST. 

2,192 ends 60/1 Am. combed warp + 5% take-up = .0458 @ 41%c. = $ .0190 

I2if ^ S , 75 ^,^ m ' combe J fi ,lin & = .0333 & 43c. =» .0143 

16 % picks 40/2 Am. combed filling, dyed = .0295 @ 44 %c = 0132 

Weaving _ q 52 2 

Expenses \ ...'......' ' , .0227 

g"v« rh "5 •■•, $ :So25 

Selling (grey) 002 8 

Mill cost (grey) j .1267 

Selling price (about) « unn 

Bleaching, finishing, etc .0125 

Converter's expenses .0200 

Cost to converter j .1826 

Selling price, converter (about) J "inn 

Selling price, Jobber (about) ' 3000 

Selling price, retailer ..!.!! '.460U 

Tardi per pound. 9.21 (crey) b«for» •h»arin*. 

R»«d«d 4 end* per dant. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



205 



of obtaining the weights of the yarn 
and cloth is as follows: 

2.192 ends -+- (60/1 X 840) — .0435. weUrht 

of warp without take-up. 
6 % average take-up In warp. 
.0435 -+- .95 = .0458, total weight of warp 

per woven yard. 
70 picks X 30" reed width X 3fi" 

= 2,100 yds. 

36" 

of fine filling per yard of cloth. 
2,100 -f- (75/1 X 840) = .0333, total weight 

of fine filling per yard of cloth. 
16.5 picks X 30" reed width X 36" 

= 495 yds. 

36" 

of heavy filling per yard of cloth. 

495 -J- (40/2 X 840) = .0295, total weight 
of heavy filling per yard of cloth. 

045S -f- .0333 + .0295 = .1086, total weigh? 
per yard. 

1.0000 -4- .1086 = 9.21 yards per pound, be- 
fore shearing. 

FANCY LENO STRIPE 

Leno fabrics are ones which are 
more or less open, and are used for 
different purposes. They have been 
used quite extensively in the past, but 
for five years or so, there has been lit- 
tle call for cloths of this character. 
The past season has seen an increas- 
ing demand for these fabrics, and 
there have been produced many varia- 
tions of this weave. At present the 
weave is used for narrow stripes on 
men's shirtings and ladies' waistings, 
in check effects for waistings, in plain 
all-over leno for overdresses and many 
other combinations in various fabrics. 

The weave is made by having ends 
twist around one or more other ends, 
thus giving in some cases a wave ef- 
fect, or in the cloth we are consider- 
ing 

AN OPENWORK EFFECT. 

The twisting of the ends is made pos- 
sible by an arrangement on the loom 
which permits the leno or crossing end 
to pass from one side to the other of 
the ground end or ends, as the case 
may be. Because of this crossing back 
and forth, the loom is run at a speed 
somewhat slower than on ordinary 
work. To make this crossing possible, 
the crossing end or leno end is run 
through a doup which is attached to a 
harness on which there are no heddles. 
These doups, which are usually made 
of good hard-twisted worsted yarn, are 
passed through the eye in a second 



harness. By raising a back harness 
this slips the doup up through the eye 
to make the crossing on one side of 
the ground ends, and by raising the 
harness and doup both, it makes a 
crossing on the opposite side of the 
ground end or ends. This is the sim- 
plest leno weave which is produced, 
and it is called 

GAUZE. 

It is composed by having two ends 
which cross each other at every pick, 
and from this foundation idea many 
beautiful effects in weave and color 
are produced, for there are leno mo- 
tions which are attached to jacquard 
looms also, giving a leno weave in a 
jacquard pattern all over the cloth. 

Because these doups wear out, thus 
requiring much care in some cases, 
fewer looms are given a weaver to run 
and this, of course, makes the weaving 
price high for this kind of cloth. It 
is to be noticed that we have allowed 
2 looms to a weaver, although in some 
mills more are given than this on a 
fabric similar to the one we have an- 
alyzed. In these fabrics the amount 
of yarn used is rather small — in the 
cloth we are considering less than 2V 2 
cents of the total 8 cents grey cost— so 
any amount saved would naturally be 
taken off the labor cost, and in these 
classes of fabrics it is the produc- 
tion and economy in labor that make 
the largest reduction in the fabric 
costs. 

On our drawing-in draft it will be 
noticed that we have marked some 
dents with ciphers, and this means 
that no ends are drawn in, or rather 
needed, in these dents, and the reason 
why the ends do not all slip together 
when woven is because of the twist 
given by the leno weave. The filling on 
a fabric of this character is nearly 
straight, so that the finished width 
and grey width are identical in many 
cases, and sometimes the finished 
width is wider than the grey width. 

To obtain the result wanted some- 
times means a lot of experimenting at 
the mill, because in many cases the 
cloth is wanted at a certain price, and 
until some of the cloth is woven, it is 
very hard to tell just how the fabric 
will look, as the size of the yarn and 



206 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



the kind of reed used and also the 
number of picks affect the looks of the 
cloth to a certain extent. 

NOT CONSIDERING THE PRICE. 

Some of these cloths are being made 
to-day by mills which have never be- 
fore attempted to make them, and we 
would say that if they did consider 
the cost of making they would be more 



der for this grade of cloth), they will 
surely wish they had never touched it 
at the price. This point should be 
carefully considered by mill treasur- 
ers, and before a new cloth is sold, 
some idea of the cost to make should 
be obtained, for, in many cases, a mill 
treasurer is as much at sea regarding 
the cost to make as a buyer is. 

The take-up on the leno ends in this 



mm ;«•; ;«>>£SSS»; ;g; :S55S25E555»! S5' ; l£5 
SS; ;«; ;2»SS3£jj«g; ;j: jjjSESSgij*; >«; '33 



:ss; is; ;ss; 



SS' 


















Leno Overdress Fabric. 



careful of the price at which they sold. 
We have personally seen leno cloths 
within a very short time which were 
sold by the mills at 5| cents per yard 
which surely could not be produced at 
anywhere near this figure. The mills 
which sold them had never had much 
experience in making leno cloths, and 
we should say that, before the order 
is completed (it is a rather large or- 



cloth is rather small, but in many 
cases of ordinary leno work the take- 
up will be from 25 to 40 per cent, and 
in a Russian cord the take-up will be 
about 75 to 89 per cent, or in other 
words, for 1 inch of cloth 5 inches of 
yarn will be required for the crossing 
or leno end. These Russian cords 
which are just ordinary leno, are be 
ing used very extensively as stripes ir. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



207 



fast colors in men's shirting material. 





~* 


































L 


I a i 




3> - -- B ^ B " Hi 






























, 




...ij5 ,3, "]i .^.^ 




OtlV. ** 






























::::::::^:-3 


>.. !' * Of 




^ "1 / * ci 


„ !s__i 




?! _ 










3 




ea * , 




JB "■- — *"% *B 




t) — 









o 




CU M . , 


" T 2 


TH i '--"* ^ 


i H™ 


^ n 




^ 2 




J Clt ™ 




^ . . _ 








i^ IS ; 




"* W 


iit* 






c tl *--- ■* ^ ' -^ 




Vl ■":-- " ^ 









s ■ 






j^ &j-~ 


"j Up c 




J ~r I 


v. n 


ZS; "I. 


a rf « 


! r-r- 


v, ^y 


Ji ^ T 


^ « 




<0 *J 


~ 2^'-; 


" n 


f, 5*__P 


1 ^ 




n / "_* 




effi , fc x « ■ 







"5" 


' "' '"""ft.., 




5 




55"- B K = = SB«S-Cfr— 






& 




6 




6 








?7 " V----*^ «o "■■ 













'"" 












o — 




, ~ «,:.:.'. 








-iH «, „' _ 




58 t~- J x «l 




1 








e g k ._ ,_, _ ■ 


_l! 


eg .- •">< °o ■ 




K + = I i- «* 


::: :: ll::S 


-■) ) * rv 


a % 


^X ' "> ^ 




1 



Draft and Chain. 
A pattern is laid out for a leno such 



as we are_ considering, as if it were 
plain weave instead of openwork 
stripes. By comparison of the plain 
stripes and leno we find that a 44 reed 
was used, and by pulling out some fill- 
ing we make the reed width 291 
inches. 

44 reed X 29% inches = 1,287 dents total. 
1.2S7 — 12 selvages = 1,275 dents Inside 

selvages. 
1,275 -v- 42 in a repeat = 30 repeats + 15 

dents. 

To find the place to start our draw- 
ing-in draft so that the pattern will 
perfectly balance, we will proceed as 
follows: Add the number of dents in 
the wide stripe and the number of 
dents left over, and divide by two; 
this gives the number of dents to start 
the drawing-in draft ahead of the 
double stripe. 

29 + 15 = 44. 

44 -h 2 = 22 dents to start ahead of stripe. 

If we consider the cloth we win 
find that a leno is next the selvage 
so instead of using 22 dents to start 
we will use 21 dents, which will bring 
a leno next the selvage. This is done 
because some dents are skipped, as we 
stated above, in our reed, and if we 
leave out one dent on each side, we 
will have 30 repeats plus 13 dents, 
which is the w^y we have laid out our 
drawing-in draft. By 

EXAMINING THE DRAFT 

carefully it will be noticed that the 
two leno ends are crossed on the draft, 
and this shows to the girls who draw 
in the warps that one end is to be 
crossed over and drawn into the doup. 
In figuring the yards per pound we 
will proceed as follows: 

1,008 ends -=- (840 X 60) = .0200. weight of 

60/1 in 1 yard of cloth without take-up. 
0200 -f- .96 = .0208, weight of 60/1 in 1 

vard of cloth with take-up. 
608 ends -h C840 X 30) = .0241, weight of 

60/2 without take-up. 
.0241 -^ .88 = .0274. weight of 60/2 in 1 

yard of cloth with take-up. 

56 picks X 29%" X 36 

1 = 1,638 yards of filling 

3 6 in 1 yard of cloth. 

1,638 -4- (S40 X 90) = .0217, weight of 90/1 

in 1 yard of cloth. 
.0208 + .0274 + .0217 = .0699, total weight 

of 1 yard of cloth. 
1.0000 -h .0699 = 14.31 yards per pound. 

The count we have given is the 



208 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



over-all count, because of the fact that 
so many dents are skipped in our 
reeding-in plan. The ends in the 
crowded stripes are drawn in two-ply, 
as may be seen from our pattern plan. 
It will also be noticed that the picks 
are placed in the cloth 2 in a shed. 
This is .probably done because it 
would be impossible to weave a cloth 
with 54 picks per inch and have the 
leno change every pick. In other 
words, there would be so many cross- 
ing places that the cloth would not 
hold that number of picks. Of course, 
more picks could be put into the cloth 
if a finer yarn was used for the 60-2, 
but with 60-2 warp the picks seldom 
run higher than 34 or 36 per inch, if 
the leno ends change every pick. The 
cloth is woven with doups, which are 
tied to the bottom of the loose harness 
and are, therefore, called 

BOTTOM DOUPS. 
On harness No. 2 is an arrangement 
whereby harness No. 1 is raised when 
No. 2 raises. This is necessary, be- 
cause the doup passes through the 
heddle eye on harness No. 2, and if 
No. 1 harness did not raise at the 
same time No. 2 did, it would either 
break the doups or keep No. 2 harness 



from lifting. In some places these two 
harnesses are not hitched together, 
and in this case, harness No. 1 would 
have to be Hfted continually on our 
head chain. In either case, the result 
is the same, for on tbe loom our har- 
ness No. 1 lifts continually, although 
the chain does not show it. 

Over No. 7 harness we have marked 
the word "jumper". This is an ar- 
rangement put on the loom which 
raises this harness part way up. This 
is done to straighten out the doups as 
it slips them back through the heddle 
eye and stops them snarling up. This 
arrangement is used for a double lift 
dobby, for on a single lift loom where 
all the harnesses come to a bottom 
shed the doups naturally slip back into 
place, and this arrangement is not 
necessary. We have also marked the 
word "slackener" over some pegs in 
the harness chain. These pegs are 
usually placed behind the regular har- 
ness chain on a harness which is not 
being used, and the purpose is this: 
When the leno or crossing threads are 
in a crossed position they twist 
around the ground threads, and unless 
some provision is made to let off a lit- 
tle extra yarn at this time, the ground 



LENO OVERDRESS. 



2 




] 


'ATI 
2 


•ERr> 


r. 

2 








2 


12 




12 


8 


4 


8 


4 


8 




12 



60/1 American combed. 
60/2 American combed. 

' « 

30 X 
90/1 American combed filling. E6 picks. 
M reed; 29%" width in reed; 28" grey width; 28" 
over all). 67 X 54 (finished count over all). 

YARNS. 



= 1,008 beam 1 
= 608 beam 2 



finished width. 57 X 



1,616 total 

ends. 

56 (grey count 



60/1 Am. combed, 1% 
60/2 Am. combed. 1%' 
90/1 Am. combed, 1%' 



Cotton, 
sta. ; 12 hank dou. rov., 26c. 
sta. ; 12 hank dou. rov., 26c. 
sta.; 20 hank dou. rov., 26c. 



Labor, 

waste. 

18c. 

18c. 

24%c. 



Twisting. 



4c. 



COST. 

1,008 ends, 60/1 American combed + 4% take-up = .0208 @ 

608 ends, 60/2 American combed -f 12% take-up = .0274 @ 

56 picks, 90/1 American combed = .0217 @ 

Weaving, 145 speed, 75% production, 2 looms, $11.50 wage.. 
Expenses, $2.50 per loom 



44c. 
48c. 
50V4c 



Selling 2%, 



Grey cost 

Bleaching, finishing, etc. 



Finished cost. 
14.31. 



44c. 
48c. 
50VsC 



$ .0092 
.0132 
.0110 
.0317 
.0137 

$ .0788 

.0010 

$ .0804 
.0100 

$ .0904 



Tarda per pound = 
Harness to weave = 8. 
'tetall price, 25c. per yard 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



20d 



ends are liable to be broken. The ends 
which are drawn in on harness No. 8 
are the ones which are drawn througn 
the loop on harness No. 1. 



JACQUARD SILK WARP 

EOLIENNE 

These cloths were quite popular 
about ten years ago and since then 
have had a regular sale, but during 
the past two years the number of 
yards sold has been largely increased 
and there are many new patterns and 
constructions being produced to-day. 
The better colors, and the fact that 
the cotton can be dyed one color and 
the silk another has helped increase 
the sales to a certain extent. 

Sometimes it requires a little ex- 
perimenting to get the construction 
what it should be for the different 
counts in the warp and filling. The 
one we are considering is a regular 
one, that is, 124x56 in the grey count 
with 40-2 combed filling. The filling 
used in these cloths is almost always 
combed yarn and also hard twisted, 
although in many cases it is not so 
hard twisted as it would be for a voile 
cloth. 

The silk warps used in the making 
of these cloths vary in the different 
mills, being gauged in most cases by 
the size of yarn which they can best 
run, but it is practically always 

ITALIAN SILK, 
and runs from 20-22 to 24-26 in size 
in most cases. These silk warps, one 
would naturally think, would create 
some trouble in a cotton mill, but 
after the help becomes used to the 
work a warp can be started up in 
fully as short a time as a whole cot- 
ton warp. In the looms the work is 
liable to create some trouble if the 
heddle eyes have some sharp places, 
as they cut the yarn easily, and a^o 
on jacquard work, if the harness 
threads are worn, they are likely to 
catch the light silk threads and break 
or cut them. These cloths are made 
in quite large quantities with hard 
twist worsted filling, but, of course, 
cost more than the cotton filling va- 



rieties, although the worsted yarj 
gives them a drape which cotton never 
gives. Cotton yarn gives possibly a 
smoother cloth and shows up the silk 
somewhat better. These cloths are 
being made with silk stripes added, 
and because of the extra silk required, 
the cost is higher. 

It may be asked by some the differ- 
ence between these eolienne cloths 
and crepe cloths, as they both have 
silk warps and the count is somewhat 
similar in many cases. One difference, 
which does not always hold true, is 
that the crepe has single tiling and 
the eolienne has two-ply filling, al- 
though tney are both hard twisted. In 
many cases, the crepe is woven on a 
box loom and is called a crepe de 
chine, while in others it is not woven 
on a box loom and is called serpen 
tine crepe, but 

THE MAIN DIFFERENCE 

is usually created by the finishing 
process, because in a crepe cloth the 
shrinkage may be as high as 33 per 
cent while in an eolienne the cloth is 
finished out nearly to its grey width. 
This can be easily seen by looking 
at the two different cloths, as in a 
crepe the filling is all full of curves 
and crinkles, while in an eolienne the 
filling is as straight as finishing can 
make it without spoiling the cloth. 

One thing which helps in the weav- 
ing of these cloths is that the silk 
used is practically always in the raw 
state, and does not look at all like 
it does when finished, but is full of 
gum, and this gum sticks the fibres 
together and keeps them from rub- 
bing to pieces in the loom and is re- 
moved in the finishing process, and 
then the gloss appears on the silk 
threads. Care has to be given to the 
weaving of these cloths, because there 
are many things which will show 
when finished which on a cotton cloth 
would never appear. Possibly, one 
thing shows more than anything 
else and this is when a reed is a trifle 
bent in some places. In this way, a 
few ends are crowded, and then there 
is a small space where they are light- 
er, and in finishing these cloths it is 
very hard, almost impossible, to make 
these threads slide in even again 



210 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSAKi 



This does not make much difference 
in a 

PIECE-DYED FABRIC 

where one color is used, but where 
the cloth is cross -dyed it shows up 
this condition very plainly, because 
the warp shows more in one place and 
the filling shows plainly next to it. 
The cloth in hand shows this condi- 
tion, while the solid colors show 
practically no streaks of any descrip- 
tion. 

These cloths are laid out in the reg- 
ular manner used for cotton jacquard 
work, and we will work out the cloth 
by successive steps. The first thing 
to do is to find the size of warp and 
filling which is used. This is easy 
enough in the filling, but the warp has 



which in this case is 126 times 53. As 
these cloths come in about | inch in 
weaving and \ inch in finishing, and 
as the finished width is 25J inches, we 
next find the reed count and reed 
used. 



25.5 finished width, 26.75 reed width 

: 126 = 120 reed count. 
120 -T- 2 = 60 reed to be used. 

Then we have: 

60 X 26% reed width 
1,604 — 44 lor selvages 

inside selvages. 
1,560 X 2 = 3,120 + 176 selvages = 3,296 

total ends. 



1.604 total dents. 
1,560 cloth dents 



The probabilities are that as long as 
the pattern finished is 3bout 3 3-16 
inches wide, it was 3 1-3 inches wide 




Jacquard Silk Warp Eolienne. 



lost quite a li' tie because of the gun 
being boiled out of the silk, and it 
requires not only fine balances, but 
also a knowledge of the amount of 
gum in the silk, and care in the sizing 
of the silk, for it is very liable to 
split up in pulling out the threads. It 
also requires 

A GENERAL KNOWLEDGE 

of the silk sizes used by cotton mills 
in the making of these clot'is. We 
find the size of the warp to be 20-22 
when used and the filling about 40-2. 
We next find the finished count. 



in the reed, as we can figure out for 
ourselves. From the whole layout of 
the cloth it appears to have been made 
on a 400 machine which was tied up 
120 per inch in the comber board. 
This makes our machine laid out as 
follows: 

400 machine -*- 120 per inch = 3 >* Inches 
in 1 repeat. 

It will then be seen that in this 
cloth the entire machine has been 
used, that is, ends are drawn into all 
the heddle eyes, and there is no cast 
out. This is done in most cotton mills 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



211 



making these cloths, for very few 
mills except silk mills have machines 
tied up to more than 120 per inch, 
that is, in the ordinary cotton mills 
which produce shirting materials. The 

NUMBER OP REPEATS 
of the pattern is then found. 

3.120 ends -h 400 = 7 repeats + 320 ends. 

By referring to the following small 
sketch it can be seen in which sec- 
tions of the tie-up the ends are used. 
We will consider that the width tied 
up is 40 inches, as this is a usual 
width in cotton mills. This makes 12 
sections or 12 harnesses attached to 
one hook. 



and instructions for drawing-in would 
be given as follows: Start to draw on 
hook No. 1, row No. 6, section No. 3. 
Finish drawing on hook No. 8, row 
No. 45, section No. 10. It will be 
noticed that 8 hooks are used in a 
row, as a 400 machine has usually this 
number of hooks placed in a row, and 
there are 50 rows in the machine. To 
lay out our pattern we will consider 
our cloth sketch as made, and the first 
thing to do is to find the paper to 
use. As the hooks are tied 8 in a row, 
the paper will be in 8 squares in the 
warp, and to find the filling squares 
we will figure thus: 

126 : 53 : : 8 : X = 3% or 8 X 3 paper. 



.40 inches wide -h 3% inches in 1 repeat = 12 repeats or sections. 




It can thus be seen that in sections 
4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 there are 400 end's 
or all the heddles used, and that in 
sections No. 3 and No. 10 there are 
only 360 ends used. By laying the pat- 
era out as above, it will be seen that 
it is exactly in the center of the tie- 
up and this helps in the running of 



But possibly in a cloth like this it 
would be better to use an 8x4 paper, 
but in any case, with a count as high 
in the warp and as low in the filling, 
it is to a great extent 

A MATTER OF EXPERIMENT 
ind experience to get the effects to 



PATTERN. 
•2 2 

20/22 Italian silk warp. 44 3,120 44 = 3,296 total ends. 

40/2 Americon combed hard twist filling. 56 picks „_„„* 

60 reed, 26%" width in reed, 26" grey width, 25%" finished width. 123 X 56 grey count. 
126 X 63 finished count. 

YARNS. 

20/22 Italian silk; 205,000 yards per pound; on beams = $4.75. 

Labor, 
Cotton. waste. Twisting. 
40/2 American combed; 1%" staple; 8 hank dou. rov., 21c. 10%c. 4c. = 35%c. 

COST. 

3,296 ends, 20/22 Italian silk + 8% take-up = .0175 @ $4 75 = $ .0831 

56 picks, 40/2 American comber hard twist = .0908 & .<$&% — -JJ?^ 

Weaving "{■»» 

Expenses °"« 

Jacquard cards -""" D 

$ .1455 

Selling, 2 % - 0029 

Cost grey * -"84 

Dyeing and finishing " zou 

Cost finished * .1734 

Yards per pound, 9.23. 

Cost at retail, 38c. per yard. 

the wo-k. The pattern to be used come out right in these cloths. There 
w; uld be balanced up and placed on are so few picks, comparatively speak - 
the design paper, and the layout ing, that the floats cannot be very 



•212 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



long, In any case, in the warp. It is 
to be noticed that on the small slots 
a pick of filling is allowed to float on 
the top and bottom of the spot to 
make the figure rounder and to hold 
down the warp better. This is a gen- 
eral practice on these cloths with 
small ground spots, as it makes a 
more even looking cloth and figure. 
To get the number of squares in the 
height of the design, it is better where 
the picks are as low as in this cloth, 
to find the height of the pattern and 
multiply by the picks per inch, and 

THIS RESULT 

should be divided by the picks in a 
square, and in this way, a more ac- 
curate result is obtained in. the num- 
ber of squares to be used, thus: 

53 picks finished X 3% inches = about 200 

picks in a repeat. 
200 h- 3 = 66 squares about, or if 8 X 4 

paper. 

was used we would have 

200 -4- 4 = 50 squares in the filling. 

In the warp we would have 

400 -*- 8 = 50 squares in the warp. 

To find the weight of the warp and 
filling and from Ihese the yards per 
pound, and then ths cost, is a rather 
simple proceeding. The yards per 
pound in the silk warp will vary, but 
we have taken a low enough number 
of yards to be on the safe side in 
figuring. To obtain the output of the 
warp, we figure as follows: 

3,296 ends -4- 205,000 yards = .0160, weight 

of warp without take-up. 
.0160 -h .92 = .0175, weight of warp in 1 

yard of cloth. 

We have used 8 per cent for take- 
up in weaving. 

The weight of the filling is obtained 
thus: 

56 picks X 26%" reed width X 36" 

= 1,498 

36 

yards of filling. 
1.498 -h 16,500 =-- .0908, weight of filling la 

1 yard of cloth. 

We have used this number of yards 
for 40-2, because in twisting it con- 
tracts somewhat. 



.0175 + .0908 < 

cloth. 
1.0000 -+- .1083 



.1083, weight of 1 yard of 
9.23 yards per pound. 



The cloth is lighter than this when 
sold for 

THREE REASONS: 
First, because of finishing and iron- 
ing the yarns are somewhat finer, al- 
though this makes only a small dif- 
ference in weight; second, because 
the silk loses the largest share of the 
gum it contained in finishing; third, 
because in finishing the cloth is 
stretched about 5 per cent, and this 
not only makes less picks per inch, 
but stretches out some of the take-up 
of the warp in weaving. 



FAST COLOR SOIESETTE 
SHIRTING 

The name soiesette is copyrighted 
and is used by Clarence Whitman & 
Company on the line of cloths which 
is produced by them. These cloths are 
made in varied styles and construc- 
tions and have had a large sale. It 
must not be thought that the cloths 
produced by this concern are the only 
ones which can be bought in theso 
lines, for many mills make similar 
fabrics which have had a large sale, 
and although the name soiesette can- 
not be used by others, the construc- 
tions and ideas can and are. Buyers 
ask for a soiesette construction and 
all they really mean is that it is a soft 
twist filling fabric with a construction 
such that it will take mercerization 
well. The name soiesette has lost to 
a certain extent its connection with 
fabrics produced by any certain house, 
and the trade in general uses the 
name when speaking of a certain 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION 

and not the production of any one cer- 
tain house. Thus, the ideas have been 
absorbed for the good of the trade. 
In our analysis we find the warp which 
was used was 85-1 and the filling was 
43-1. We have used Egyptian cot- 
ton for filling, but it is also possible 
to use American. 

The cloth we are considering is a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



218 



fair example of the many lines of 
shirtings which are being sold at pres- 
ent. It is to be noted that even though 
the price of this cloth is 30 cents in 
the stores, many shirts are being sold 
with cloth of this quality at about 
$1.50, and these shirts are better than 
have been sold previously. The quality 
of men's shirtings and ladies' waist- 
ings has improved very much during 
the past five years, this improvement 
being due in a great measure to the 
improvements in finishing cloth, and 
also to the dyeing of yarn and cloth 
which is also showing large improve- 
ment. The quality of yarn entering 



of the warp and soft twist grey or un- 
bleached filling, and when the cloth 
is woven it is bleached which, of 
course, makes the grey yarn white, 
but does not affect the dyed yarn, and 
then it is mercerized which gives the 
filling a sheen which makes the cloth 
more desirable. It can be seen that 
by using grey soft twist filling a bet- 
ter mercerized finish will result, be- 
cause in the mercerizing process a 
soft twist yarn mercerizes better and, 
of course, grey yarn which is not han- 
dled can be used softer twisted than 
bleached yarn. The process of mer- 
cerizing cloth consists of immersion 









Past Color Soiesette Shirting. 



into cloth is to-day better than ever, 
and this may be due partly to the 
larger competition in these lines of 
fabrics and also to the fact that even 
yarn makes a large difference in the 
finish of a piece of goods as finished 
to-day. Possibly the fact that in most 
all colored lines where dyed and 
bleached yarn was used the cloth did 
not take a mercerized finish because 
of harder twist in the filling to facili- 
tate handling, made the cloth some- 
what less desirable than at present. 
The fact is that yarn can be dyed fast 
colors which will stand bleaching, 
and that then a cloth can be made up 
as a regular colored shirting using 
grey or unbleached yarn for the rest 



in caustic soda and at the same time 
keeping the tension as much as pos- 
sible on the filling or cloth width. If 
the tension was not much, the cloth 
when passed into the liquid would 
shrink and there would be no luster, 
and the reason the tension is placed 
on the filling in this particular in- 
stance is because the filling is made 
soft twisted, and this takes the finish 
better than the warp. In some lines of 
fabrics the tension is placed on the 
warp, especially such cloths as mer- 
cerized poplins. The reason this is 
done is because the warp is made of 
two-ply soft twist yarn. Almost all 
cloths which are mercerized are mer- 
cerized in the filling, because there are 



214 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



comparatively few cloths on which 
two-ply soft twist warp is used, while 
there are many fabrics which have 
medium or soft twist filling. 
ONE FEATURE 
which appears in this cloth is not no- 
ticeable with other colors of dyed 
yarn. With an ordinary magnifying 
glass may be seen what are called 
black hairs, which project off the 
black, fast-colored yarn. In many 
cases this black yarn has made much 
trouble for the mills in cloth rejec- 
tions, for in some cases the cloth will 
be full of these hairs alongside the 
black yarn, although in this cloth the 
amount of these hairs is about as 
small as possible. For the above rea- 
son, mills have been forced to use as 
good black yarn as is possible in this 
class of fabric, and in many cases it 
has been necessary to use fine two-ply 
yarn wherever a black color was used. 
It has been a practice to use black 
combed yarn for stripes in carded col- 
ored yarn shirtings, for these black 
hairs, which, of course, are more 
prominent in carded yarn, would in 
many cases spoil the fabric. With me- 
dium dark colors this effect is not 
noticeable, although these hairs are 
present, but because of their fineness 
and because they do not so strongly 
contrast with the white ground, they 
are not noticeable to any extent, and 
certainly not enough to hurt the gen- 
eral appearance of the cloth in most 
cases. 

One thing which hurts the wearing 
qualities of most all shirtings is the 
presence of hard cords in the pat- 
tern. When the cloth is ironed there 
is a tendency to cut the filling, and this 
soon makes the cloth split on the 
cords and so renders a shirt useless 
before it is actually worn anywhere. 
We do not think the above will make 
any difference in the amount of shirt- 
ings with cords which are made, and 
we hope it will not, because it is a 
case where the beauty of a pattern is 
much better with the addition of a few 
cords even if the wearing qualities are 
lessened to a certain extent. Shirtings 
in many cases would not be made in 



attractive patterns if it were not for 
the 

TOUCH OF VARIETY 
which is added by the addition of a 
few cords. Nearly the same effect i» 
produced by very narrow satin stripes 
and the wearing qualities of a s'.iirting 
with satin stripes for cords is largely 
improved. 

It is to be noticed in most all 
soiesette cloths that the warp is usu 
• ally of fine yarn, relatively speaking, 
in comparison with the filling, also 
that the count is somewhat lower in 
the warp than in the filling. These 
above facts are brought about in the 
construction of the cloth so that the 
finish will be better when mercerized, 
and another fact which helps in this 
direction is soft twist in the filling, 
and in many cases, the use of Egyp- 
tian cotton which possibly takes mer- 
cerization somewhat better than many 
grades of American cotton. 

The grey counts on some of these 
cloths are as follows: 64 times 72 with 
50-1 warp and 30-1 filling, 68 times 
84 with 50-1 warp and 35-1 filling, 72 
times 96 with 60-1 or 70-1 warp and 
40-1 filling, and there are many vari- 
ations from these constructions both 
in yarn and count, but the warp is 
almost always made of fine yarn, and 
the filling of coarser 

SOFT TWIST FILLING. 

In weaving cloths such as we are 
considering it is necessary that care 
be exercised by the fixers or else the 
take-up on the lighter beams is liable 
to be large, and this will make an en- 
tirely different looking fabric, and in 
some cases, spoil the effect. The 
above is not so likely to happen if sin- 
gle yarn is used, but when two-ply is 
used, much more care is necessary as 
the stiffness of the yarn is liable to 
help make loops and a large take-up. 
thereby making a bad looking fabric 
in many cases. Cloth has been noticed 
in the stores where this effect has ap- 
proached a regular seersucker effect, 
and then when more tension his been 
applied, the defect has entirely disap- 
peared in the cloth. 

THE EXPENSE 
of making these cloths is rather high. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



216 



because of the fact that, having a high 
number of picks, the production is 
rather slow, and this makes the weav- 
ing and other charges greater. The 
cost of finishing this sort of fabric is 
not large, as it has only to be bleached 
when woven and then mercerized, and 
it is much easier and cheaper to 
bleach and mercerize cloth than it is 
to handle yarn in the same manner. 

If the filling is made well on these 
cloths, the result is likely to appear 
well, as the filing covers up to a cer- 
tain extent the warp yarn, although 
a warp as fine as the one we are con- 
sidering has to be good yarn to stand 
the beating rp of so many picks. 

These cloths are about 32 inches 
wide finished, and as they shrink 
about 2 inches in finishing and 11 to 
2 inches in weaving, we have from 
the finished counts of 72 in the warp 
the following: 

32 : 35.75 : : X : 72 = about 64. 
64 -5- 2 = 32 reed to be used. 
32 X 3594 = 1.144 total dents. 
1,144 — 16 selvages = 1,128 dents inside 
selvages. 

By comparison we find the cords are 



reeded 1 in a dent, while all the other 
yarn is reeded 2 in a dent, and then 
by laying out our pattern we find that 
there are 60 dents in a repeat of the 
pattern, so we have: 

1,128 -4- 60 = IS repeats + 48 dents over. 

In balancing up this pattern we find 
that with 48 dents over we will have 
one cord next the selvage on one side 
and none on the other, so to make 
the two edges exact we will use only 
47 dents over and then the pattern 
will balance as we have laid out in our 

COST ANALYSIS. 

The picks in the finished cloth av- 
erage about 92, and so there were 
probably 96 in the grey cloth. 

The yarn is drawn in on four har- 
nesses in regular order just as if it 
were for an ordinary plain white 
warp, but when the warp is reeded in 
the cords are drawn 1 in a dent, while 
the other yarn is reeded 2 in a dent. 
The sizes of the yarns are found in the 
usual manner, and we then proceed to 
find the weight of the cloth. 

1,870 ends -h (840 X 85) = .0262, weight 

of 85/1 warp without take-up. 
.0262 -h .92 = .0295, weight of 85/1 wari> 



85/1 Am. c'mb'd 
30/1 Am. c'mb'd 

black 

16/2 Am. c'mb'd 



















PATTERN. 


















2 


























1 










1 


1 1 


21 


16 




31 






8 




8 






31 




6 


131 






S 




8 


31 


16 








3 






2 






3 










3 




2 




1 1 
31 1 












2 








2 






1 




l| 




2 






1 2 


1 1 





= 152 
= 148 



3 X 



2,170 



18 X 



96 picks, 43/1 English combed soft twist filling. 32 reed, 35%" width in reed; 34" grey 
width, 32" finished width; 6S X 96 grey count ground; 72 X 92 " 



92 finished count ground. 



YARNS. 

Cotton. 
85/1 Am. combed: 1V 2 " sta.; 17 hank dou. rov., 28c. 

30/1 Am. combed bi'k; iy 8 " sta.; 6 hank dou. rov., 21c. 
16/2 Am. combed; iy 10 " sta.; 3.25 hank dou. rov., 17V 2 c. 
43/1 Eng. combed; 1V4" sta.; 10.5 hank dou. rov., 26c. 



Labor, 
waste. 
27c. 
9c. 
5%c. 
13c. 



Dyeing 8c. 
Twisting 2c. 



= 55c. 
= 38c. 
= 26c. 
= 39c. 



COST. 

1.870 ends. 85/1 Am. combed + 8% take-up = .0295 @ 55c. 

152 ends. 30/1 Am. combed + 10% take-up = .0067 & 38c. 

148 ends, lb/2 Am. combed + 2% take-up = .0224 @ 26c. 

96 picks, 43/1 Eng. combed = .0950 @ 39c. 

Weaving 



Expenses 



= $ .0162 
= .0026 
= .005S 
= .0371 
.0154 
.0201 



Selling 

Bleaching, mercerizing, etc. 



lards per pound, 6.51. 

Plain weave. 

Retail price, 80c. per yard 



$ .0972 
.0020 



t .0992 
.0150 



$ .1142 



216 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



with take-up. 
152 ends h- (840 X 30) — .0060, weight of 

30/1 warp without take-up. 
0060 -*- .9 = .0067, weight of 30/1 warp 

with take-up. 
148 ends -r- (840 X 8) = .0220. weight of 

16/2 warp without take-up. 
.0220 h- .98 = .0224, weight of 16/2 warp 

with take-up. 
96 X 35% X36 

= 3,432 yards of filling In 1 

36 yard of cloth. 

3,432 -+- (840 X 43) = .0950, weight of fill- 
ing in 1 yard of cloth. 
.0295 + .0067 + .0224 + .0950 = .1536. 

weight of 1 yard ot cloth. 
1.0000 -J- .1536 = 6.51 yards per pound. 

These fabrics look well as long as 
they will hold together, for the fibre 
has undergone a change, and the nice 
glossy appearance will not Wash out 
as in some fabrics, but 

THE WEARING VALUE 
of these cloths does not compare with 
a well mercerized two-ply warp pop- 
lin, although, of course, both cloths 
have individual uses where the other 
cannot be used. The weaving cost is 
rather high on these cloths, becaus? 
of the high number of picks. Thiy 
cloth, as made in most cases, has 104 
picks in the grey, but the piece Wo 
have analyzed has only 92 picks fin- 
ished, so the grey count probably was 
not over 96. If this cloth was made 
with 104 picks, the cost would be 
about ic. extra from the price we 
have figured, that is, the extra 8 picks 
would add about Jc. in yarn and the 
weaving and expenses would add 
about |c. per yard. 

Mercerization makes the cotton fi- 
bre, which is a flat twisted tube, swell 
up and become rather round, and 
takes out of the fibre the crinkle so 
that it is like a small glass rod. This 
gives the fibre its luster. In merceriz- 
ing cloth by some methods 

CARE HAS TO BE EXERCISED 
or the cloth is likely to split because 
of the tension caused in the process; 
especially is this true of the lighter 
cloths which are mercerized. Cloth 
with soft twist filling, of course, is not 
likely to wear as well as if the filing 
were harder twisted, but what is sac- 
rificed in wearing qualities is more 
than made up in the improved looks 
of the cloth because of the merceriz- 
ing process. Large profits have been 
realized from the sale of these cloths. 



as there was a good profit per yard, 

and the yard', produced have been 

larger than in many other lines of 
fancy cloth. 



BOX LOOM DOTTED SWISS 

These varieties of fabrics are made 
and sold in large volume, and the sale 
seems to be more regular than on 
many other lines. Cloths of this de- 
scription are used for many purposes, 
such as waists and dresses, curtains 
and also for printing purposes. The 
goods are made in many qualities, but 
as a usual thing, the ground cloth is 
rather fine, as cloths go, and the count 
is not as close as in some other lines 
of fabrics, although the ground cloth 
is hardly ever loose enough to slip ex- 
cept on the very cheap fabrics. 

The spots are usually in the shape 
of small polka dots spaced in a drop 
pattern order, the spaces between the 
spots being regulated to a certain ex- 
tent by the size of the spots; that is, 
for a small spot a small space is al- 
lowed between, while with a larger 
spot a larger space is allowed. These 
spots are made with the use of extra 
yarn, and the box loom is used for 
weaving the pattern, sometimes a pick 
and pick loom is used, as in the cloth 
we are considering, while at other in- 
stances a box loom is used which can 
throw no less than two picks of each 
kind of filling. Patterns are not only 
made with spots as noted, but in many 
cases 

FANCY FIGURES 

are made and jacquard looms are used 
in their production. Spots are also 
made by using extra warp yarn, and 
then an ordinary loom is used which 
has no box attachment. These cloths 
are not as good as the ones made with 
extra filling, because it is impossible 
to get as much yarn into the spot, and 
this has a tendency to make the ex- 
tra warp spots look light, but the price 
of extra warp spots is less because 
there are less picks per inch, and this 
allows a larger production and re- 
duces the price. Spots are also made 
with the lappet motion which are 
sometimes sold in the same 'lass with 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



217 



the spots made, as above described, 
but they are in most cases not as good 
as filling- made spots, although the 
ground cloth is usually similar in 
weight and count. The price of these 
cloths is usually less than either of the 
above. 

Possibly, the greatest trouble expe- 
rienced in the making of these cloths 
is found in the fact that, when the ex- 
tra warp or tilling is being placed in 
the cloth, there is very likely to be a 
streak in the cloth where there are 
fewer picks than there ought to be. 
This is Oue to the fact that the ground 
cloth is ratner light and tne neavier 
filling or warp yarn wnen placed in 
the cloth holds out the filling from 
beating up, thus making thin and thick 
places. This holds true in all kinds of 



when the spot is being. made to lift 
about three-quarters of the total warp 
yarn, and this would make a bad 
streak, because it makes a heavier lift 
for the loom than when making the 
plain part of the pattern. With the 
face woven down, this trouble is not 
present to any extent. When the spot 
or extra filling is being placed in the 
cloth, the take-up pawl is raised, and 
this makes the ground cloth have the 
same number of picks throughout the 
pattern. 

It can be noticed in this cloth that 
the extra filling is not woven into the 
selvage. Many mills persist in mak- 
ing these cloths with filling woven into 
the selvage, thereby spoiling, in some 
cases, wnat otherwise would be a good 
looking piece of cloth. It is unneces- 



Bcx Loom Dotted Swiss. 



cloth of this nature, and many times 
it is absolutely impossible to eradicate 
all of the trouble, especially when a 
very light ground is used with a heavy 
sptv. 

In making this kind of cloth with 
extra fhling it is necessary to weave 

THE CLOTH FACE DOWN 

to get good results. A reason can be 
seen for this, which is as follows: If 
woven face up, it would be necessary 



sary to have this condition, as a wire 
or cord will obviate the necessity of 
holding the filling which makes the 
spot. 

One large advantage in the use of 
extra filling is that when the cloth 
is to be sheared the knives on the 
shearer will pick up the extra filling 
much easier than extra warp, thereby 
making a much better piece of work. 
Because of this same reason, it is pos- 
sible to make spots closer together 



218 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



with extra filling, and it is hardly ever 
necessary to bind in the filling, while 
in many cases extra warp yarn has to 
be bound in above and below the spot, 
so as to hold it tight enough to be 
sheared without pulling out. This is 
one thing which is often noticed on 
cloth made with extra warp, and 
throughout the patterns or spots, there 
is likely to be extra warp threads 
missing which 

THE SHEARING PROCESS 
has pulled out. Sometimes this cannot 
u o helped, as it is impossible to bind 



means quite a saving on the cost of 
the cloth to the manufacturer. 

There is no question but that in the 
majority of cases the cloths made on 
the pick and pick looms are much bet- 
ter than patterns made with the ordi- 
nary box loom, and the prices of these 
cloths are higher than those made by 
other methods. The above statement 
holds true possibly in very few cases, 
but it is a fact with the kind of cloth 
we are considering. 

ONE ADVANTAGE 
of using extra filling in making these 



__ j T -X4 ? - 7T - j; W--ji = ! 5 :-- 


c__: 1 — ■!& )i aEftiuittoddi p_: _i_^ i 




~ 1 






■ 




Suua'-— —r-~ - ■ — — - - Cu£l 




| 


b.s,. x*«r^ &JJ* TL. 


It- - 33 ;*» « J % j-i* 


* *. a * ll 


■m-, *-, ' *— tt u. iy 


5g- 32 . ^ps to >jt ^gpt 11 ll 




a = ---- -j y j =-. 4- -* "li|~ 


\- T Z - l. r ll 


S- t - - X ± ig 


* - * i it 


,* ■ * * * i I f< V Arfrf 


if a^-rr TV ^lU^-X-ji-- 3E*_ 


' ' " " .'HI 1 1 1 1'! i (1 ,'tottm 




ii <i"4 a n ilia & & s. sl s n & h. a. h. n> A a i\ ii Lj "rSwa^ 


i ■ r I i r it t i « 1 1 #^">«»- 



in the extra yarn satisfactorily with- 
out spoiling the looks of the figure. 
The cloth is first run through a ma- 
chine which cuts the long floats, but 
does not clip them close, as is noticed 
in the cloth. This is done in a follow- 
ing process, where the long, loose 
threads are brushed up and clipped 
down close. In the first process, care 
must be exercised or the machine is 
likely to clip holes in the cloth, there- 
by spoiling it for use. Sometimes only 
one machine is used, and the cloth is 
given a number of runs so the ends 
can be cut down close. 

On many of these fabrics the waste 
produced is nuite an item, as the 
amount of cloth sold is large. On the 
cloth we are considering, about 1 
pound of waste is made on every 25 
yards of cloth. If this waste can be 
used in some cheaper yarn, or if it can 
be sold to advantage, it sometimes 



cloths is that a spot will be softer and 
look better than if extra warp were 
used. This is because warp yarn is 
twisted harder than filling and does 
not spread out so well and make a 
nice full spot. 

Many of the cheaper cloths are 
made from carded yarns and sell as 
low as 5 cents per yard at the mills. 
The cost of cloth made with filling is 
higher, because the speed of the looms 
is much lower and the picks per inch 
total are higher. This makes the 
yards produced smaller, and, there- 
fore, increases the cost. 

Spots similar to the ones we are 
considering are sometimes made on an 
embroidery loom. This, of course, 
makes a much better rpsult. and the 
price is usuallv much higher. Cloths 
made on these looms a^e entirely dif- 
ferent from the results obtained either 
by box loom or lappet motion. In fact. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



219 



the ordinary cloths such as we are 
analyzing are usually copies of spots 
or effects which have been made on 
an embroidered cloth. 

The effects usually produced on 
dobby looms are similar to the one we 
have analyzed, although, as we stated 
previously, there are many effects 
made on jacquard and embroidery 
looms. In most all cases on the simple 



r— r 1 


I I ! II I 


f 


■ LU 






I | 1 










■ ■ * ■■ 
■■■■ ■■ 


p :i j 


1 K ■ ■■■ 




■■■ ■■ 




■ •■ • ■ ■■ 
■■ft 


■_■_■. 


! ■■ ft ■■■ 

■■■ ,' 


1 l-E 1 


■*.'■ •' ■ ■■ 




IBM* ■■ 


II p 


I ■■ » ■■■ 




!■■>■ ■■ 


III 


■- ■ «s ■■ 






■ la 




■■I tt m m 
ilia ■ ■ i 

rnt? m m m 


■ ■ a ■■ 
■ ■■ ■ HM 

■ B ■ ■■ 


1 A 1 I 




I-bRJ 


» a m IB 




B~^~f 


~ =i=B jy 




% ii 




fti ■ 




P-i'i! 


3k ■ ■ 




SflT'BH -- 




— pj-i-i- 


Tb i 












~k t i i 










it a i 


i-ii-i-i-^- 














nz 





patterns it is not a question of com- 
plex designing but one of 

TROUBLESOME WEAVING 

which makes poor looking cloth. A 
man who lays out patterns for cloths 
such as these ought to study construc- 
tions very carefully, for it is possible 
many times to run a sample piece with 
care so that the cloth is practically 
even and has no thick and thin places, 
but when this cloth is ordered and 
looms are put on weaving the cloth. 



it is nearly impossible to get good re- 
sults. Much trouble is likely to be 
caused in this manner unless care is 
exercised when the cloth is first laid 
out. This is a very broad subject and 
one which is coming more and more 
to the front, for it is beginning to be 
realized by men in the tiade that or- 
ders are placed in many cases on cloth 
which should not be woven, because 
the constiuction used was not what it 
should be for the cloth being made. 
Sometimes the count is too low and 
the goods will slip and cause cancella- 
tions, and in other cases, a too close 
count will be used to produce the best 
results. This can be seen in some 
cases on voile cloths being sold, for on 
some of these the count is too close, 
and not only is it a waste of material, 
but a poorer effect is produced than 
if a somewhat lower count were used. 
These facts show that there is a need 
of closer study of cloth construction 
by buyers, because the making of 
fancy cloths is broadening out very 
rapidly, and there is little knowledge 
on the subject which can be obtained 
which applies in these particular in- 
stances. 

WEIGHTS OF YARNS. 

To get the weights of the various 
yarns used and the yards per pound 
we figure as follows: 

2,206 ends -f- (S40 X 55) = .0477, weight 

without take-up. 
.0177 -i- .95 = .0502, weight with take-up. 
64 X 20% X 36 

= 1,888 yards 65/1 filling in 

36 1 yard of cloth. 

l.SSS -=- (65 X 840) = .0346, weight of 65/1 

filling. 
15.16 X 29% X 36 



36 



447.17 yards 10/1 filling 
in 1 yard of cloth. 



447.17 -^ (840 X 10) = .0532, weight of 10/1 
filling. 

.0502 -4- .0346 + .0532 = .13S0, total weight. 

1.0000 -f- .1380 = 7.25 yards per pound be- 
fore shearing. 

These fabrics are almost always 
made of grey yarn, and are bleached 
when woven and sheared. When sold 
to the converter they are sold sheared, 
and he has them finished, dyed or 
printed, as the trade demands. How- 
ever, in most cases, they are finished 
white. Fabrics with bunches of mate- 
rial printed on have taken some of the 



220 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 

places where these fabrics have been ing demand for cloth of this descrip 
used, but there is a large and increas- tion. 

PATTERN. 
2 2 

65/1 .American combed warp. 12 2,158 12 = 2,206 ends. 

65/1 American combed filling 64 picks. 

10/1 American carded filling 15.16 picks. 

79.16 picks total. 
37 reed; 29%" reed width; 27%" finished width; 27%" grey width; finished count, 80 X 61 
ground; 80 X 76 over all. Grey count, 80 X 64 ground; 80 X 79.16 over all. 

YARNS. 

Cotton. Labor & waste. 
55/1 American combed; 1 5-16" sta. ; 11 hank dou. rov., 25c. 16c. = 41c. 

65/1 American combed; 1%" sta.; 16 hank dou. rov., 24c. 17%c. = 41%c. 

10/1 American carded; 1" sta.; 2.5 hank dou. rov., 14c. 4c. = 18c. 

COST. 

2,206 ends, 55/1 American combed + 5% take-up = .0502 @ 41c. = $ .0200 

64 picks 65/1 American combed = .0346 @ 41%c. = .0144 

15.16 picks, 10/1 American carded '.....= .0532 @ 18c. = .0096 

Weaving .0168 

Expenses . 022U 

$ .0S34 
Shearing .002:. 

$ .0859 
Selling .0017 

Cost grey $ .0 8 7 ', 

Bleaching; finishing, etc .0125 

Cost finished $ .1001 

Yards per pound = 7.25 before shearing. 
Yards per pound = 9.75 about finished. 
Price at retail. 25c. 

■ ♦» » 

HDTTETfTAT QTTV CTDTDU have come to notice where on voile 

AAliriulAL OlLJi Ul Hi! U cloths a lower count could have been 

used and not only a better price se- 

VOTT F cured, but a better looking fabric would 

i vlJiL have resulted. It is a fact that in 

... many cases even the cotton used in a 

The cloth we are considering is one clotn wi i lf to a certain amount, reg- 

of a variety which is being sold in u i ate the count to be used, for a rough 

quite large quantities at present and co tton will require a lower count 

is likely to sell in larger quantities the tnan a smoot h cotton to produce as 

coming summer. It is made of much fixra a texture 

finer yarn than is usually sold, but it is WITn MiWV Q ™ T T ™ nQ 

a well-made fabric with even yarn, and WITH MAN\ SKLLkRS 

is representative of the finer expensive it is a practice to make cloths of as 

class of cotton voiles. low count as possible and not have 

The construction used is about what them slip badly when handled. This 

it should be for the size of yarn used, policy is a good one for some grades 

This question of cloth construction is of cloth, such as voiles, but for many 

one which has been considered but other fabrics it is a bad practi-e to 

lightly by many buyers, for in many adopt, for sometimes cloth quality is 

cases, constructions are ordered which regulated by its fineness and firmness, 

are not suitable. Many times con- and other times by its sheer look or 

str ctions are bought which are too opennpss. To put all fabrics on the 

low, and of course, it can be imagined same basis would be a foolish step, 

that these were bought to get them as but this is about what some buyers 

low in price as possible, but in other or sellers would like to do. Of course, 

cases, a too high count has been or- it is well known that many cloths are 

dered. Quite a number of instances ordered with low counts through ig- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



221 



norance in many cases, for it has been 
impossible to obtain men who under- 
stood cloth construction well enough 
to direct the buying. This condition is 
just beginning to be realized, because 
of the large increase in fancy woven 
fabrics, and to understand conditions 
well, it is almost necessary that some 
technical training be had as a founda- 
tion, and it is also necessary that quite 
a little actual mill experience be ob- 
tained to give any sort of reliable es- 
timates or information on the many 
grades of fabrics being bought and 




silk. The price on this artificial silk has 
been reduced ktely and the quality 
improved so that its use is likely to 
increase, especially in such cloths as 
voiles and low count fancy cloths. The 
reason why more of this silk has not 
been woven, regardless of the price, is 
because in any but a coarse cloth the 
rubbing of the reed in weaving has 
split up the fibres in the thread, there- 
by making it weak and causing very 
bad weaving yarn. The yarn is strong 
if no rubbing is applied which splits 
the threads, although tne newer \arn 




















J-jlj- 1- 


■ -"i i- *-'i 


Mh 


~'-jlji~'-~i::!!: : ;: : r-: 


•"rj::r." 








SfitjK 




lillC- . 


•:_Jljf-; :: 


•1<!e-"" 






''0y.± 


» 
















W : - 




•*Mf- 





m 

vma 



' C .'; 



m 



Artificial Silk Stripe Voile. 



used to-day. It is to be noticed that 
there is quite a little artificial silk 
used in the pattern. This silk has been 
used but little in the weaving of cloth 
in America, but has been made into 
braids, ties and like articles. 

THE REASON 

for this has been its high cost, com- 
paratively speaking, for the cost has 
not been, as many supposed, very 
much lower than re^l silk because the 
threads are heavier and what has been 
in many cases saved in the lower price 
has been made up by the fact that not 
so many yards of cloth could be ob- 
tained per pound as when using real 



is much better than that foimerly sold. 
Of course, all buyers have been fa- 
miliar with the fact that by wetting 
the yarn the strength was lost. This 
fact has also 

RETARDED ITS USE, 
although by using this silk for stripes 
where the strain comej on the ground 
yarn, there seems to be no serious ob- 
jection to a large increise in nse. 

In bleaching, the silk is liable to 
lose a part of its hisrh lustpr. unless 
especial care is exercised, although, in 
the case in hand, which is a bleached 
and piece-dyed fabric, the silk seems 
to look as well as before processing. 
One thing which has helped in the 



r> 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



1 


to>5^5NBiC\0 o *j ©<: 


|B> > tjf 2* *"« >■ > v "'S* 


5 ^^^o cj 


3 


■j 


r>w~3wiMi mb jh 














9„ _L_ 


^ ^ 3 _ v __ 


^5 '3^' Jt. -, "--i 


__. 23 3*. SEJ- -3 lill 


'5 ^^ — 5j 5 IS" 


.12 S__^___ _i a lii: 


''• V ^. 


is :5~: 


^ .. *i 3 -^ 


=>! 3 iii: 




23/? rg * ---- 


■-■"7 ir?~p , H ?i" - — --■ 


52 /F ^^ " « v 


;; 7rt? ?a 5^ IS" 


3 


a _::__ 


i _s 




_.,* ^S-2-SS —a >_I 


33 ji*r* ?a! — t> — ~ — 


. nig *Hv& ^h -s " ~ 


1 ~>v e ~?"9 sl "~~I 


-»: Si ^3 3 IS 


5 ra Kj 3 _fa 


-4 2 £3 ^J 3 n — 


^* 7 r . FH T - 'e 


vr eg' e ts * "" 


"~j" ttT'? Fte~ — ~ " """ 


'- ^r> *? r a vi ---. 


J *g^& F2~ 5^ I5II 


5 -^ 


:3 3 "*„:: 


a ISII 




22l p r I- a " "I" 


-s^ptI: k ™ 


\v^i v ^^8 *• ■ > «_ 


2zt« t3 s :sll 


_. .: 13 15" 


*J 3 -i 


^j a >:: 


1 «, ^isil 


„,< _ _»»„_„-»«_ _-_-2 _--» 


is ^s I -^ _^_- 


■=3 .3^> ^^ a _-_- 


5»,2 3 3^ ^-^ 


„_£ c* I * 


S -i__ 


III! ± a _^_- 


— r- 



weaving of this yarn is the use of it in 
the grey state before being bleached, 



as this prevents part of the bad split- 
ting upually noticed. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



223 



These voile fabrics which are be- 
ing made and sold to-day in large 
quantities are most of them made of 
hard twist two-ply yarn. Some cloth 
has been made and sold in which sin- 
gle hard-twist yarn was used, but the 
quantity made in fancy cloths has been 
small and the quality has not com- 
pared with the two-ply article. The 
hard twist two-ply is made on a twist- 
ing frame, or, in some cases on a 
spinning frame. The reason the yarn 
is hard twisted is because by this 
method a smooth, round thread is pro- 
duced. In making this yarn sometimes 
trouble is caused by the yarn cutting 
the travelers, and as it is hard twist- 
ed it will kink up and break down 
more ends. If a spinning frame is 
used, quite a number of processes are 
saved in the making of filling, for with 
the use of enamelled bobbins the yarn 
when twisted and steamed is ready 
for the loom. This, of course, is 

QUITE A SAVIN u 
in the cost to make, besides a smaller 
amount of machinery is required. 

The standard of twist used in this 
yarn varies in different mills and. for 
different qualities of cloth. In usual 
cases the standard is from 6.50 to 8, 
but the main point is to have the 
yarn as smootn and round as possible. 
To obtrin this result, yarn is some- 
times run through a gas flame, which 
burrs off a large share of the fibres 
which project. . 

Clcth such as we are considering 
is usually sold by a converter rather 
than a jobber. These cloths are in 
man- cases sold direct to the retailer 
and the prices and profits obtained are 
much larger than in many coarser fab- 
rics It is to be noticed that in the 
heavy stripe where 60-2 yarn is used 
the cloth approaches the effect produc- 
ed in the class of fabrics known as 
poplins, and on which the count is 
in many cases about 100x48. These 
fabrics are used in many cases for 
overdresses, and the quality produced 
compares very favorablv with the wor- 
sted cloths made for the same pur- 
pose, when the 

DIFFERENCE IN PRICE 
is considered. Possibly, each has a 



large place to fill in the production of 
desirable fabrics. The finished count 
in the warp is about 54, so under these 
conditions, a 50-reed was probably 
used, and as these cloths shrink in 
weaving and finishing from two to 
three inches, depending on the yarn 
size and construction used, we will 
find the layout of the pattern "as 
follows: 

50 reed X 42 Inches = 2,100 total dents. 
2,ioo — 28 selvages = 2,072 dents inside 
selvages. 

By comparing the different parts of 
the pattern we find that the 60-2 yarn 
is reeded two ends in a dent, the 100-2 
one end in a dent, and the artificial 
silk one end in a dent drawn two-ply. 
This gives the total number of dents in 
the pattern as 86. The only way to tell 
how these or any yarns are reeded 
when a cloth is finished is by careful 
observation, and can only be learned 
through years of experience in the 
making up of cloth, and actual expe- 
rienced a mill, and even under these 
conditions, it is rather hard to tell 
because cloth is pulled a lot in the 
finishing operations. 



2,072 



86 = 24 repeats 4- 8 dents. 



To balance up our patterns so that 
the stripes will be the same distance 
from the selvage, we add the dents 
left over (8) to the dents in the plain 
part of pattern (50) and divide by 2: 

50 + 8 = 58 -h 2 = 29. 

This gives us 29 dents of plain or 
voile weave to follow when the selvage 
is drawn, and it car be seen from the 
layout of the pattern on our cost es- 
timate that the cloth ex^ctlv balances, 
as it starts and ends with 29 dents of 
plain. Patterns should always be bal- 
anced, if possible, for it makes a much 
better looking piece of goods on the 
counters and helps much in the selling. 

To get 

THE DIFFERENT WEIGHTS 
of yarn used in one yard of cloth, and 
from these weights to get the yards 
of cloth per pound, we proceed as fol- 
lows: 



224 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



1,456 enda -*- 38,500 = .0378, weight of 100/2 

warp without take-up. 
.0378 -+- .95 = .0398, weight of 100/2 in 1 

yard of cloth. 
576 ends -+- (60/2 X 840) = .0228, weight 

of 60/2 warp without take-up. 
.0228 -+- .93 = .0245, weight of 60/2 in 1 

yard of cloth. 
768 ends -h 30,000 = .0256, weight of 150 

denier warp without take-up. 
.0256 -h .96 = .0267, weight of 150 denier 

in 1 yard of cloth. 
52 picks X 42" X 36 

= 2.1S4 yards of filling 

36 in 1 yard of cloth. 

2.1S4 h- 38.500 = .0567, weight of 100/2 

filling in 1 yard of cloth. 
.039S -f- .0245 + .0267 + .0567 = .1477, 

total weight of 1 yard of cloth. 
1.0000 ■+- .1477 = 6.77 yards per pound. 



It is to be noticed that 38,500 yards 



are used for figuring weights instead of 
42,000 yards, which is the standard 
usually taken for 100-2. The reason 
this is done is because in the twisting 
operation, when hard twist is made, 
the yarn contracts to a certain extent, 
and this yardage allows for this con- 
traction. The yardage taken for the 
artificial silk, namely 30,000, is what it 
actually runs when sized, and not the 
theoretical \ardaere. for this will he 
found to be somewhat over 29,500. In 
finishing, the cloth is held out, be- 
cause the hard twist yarn will make 
the cloth crepe up unless this is done. 



PATTERN. 



100/2 Sea Island hard twist (14 

60/2 American combed 



150 denier artificial silk. 



2 


























2 ! 


14 




29 


2 
4 


4 


2 
4 


24 


2 

4 


4 


2 
4 


21 


8 




141 

1 



24 X 
52 picks, 100/2 Sea Island hard twist. 
50 reed, 42" width in reed, 40" finished width, 70 X 50 finished count over all. 



1,456 
676 



2.800 



100/2 Sea Island hard twist; 1%" sta. ; 20 hank dou. rov.. 

60/2 Am. combed; 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 
150 denier artificial silk; 30,000 yds. per lb. Price on spools. 
100/2 Sea Island hard twist filling; same as warp, 

COST. 

1,456 ends, 100/2 Sea Island hard twist + 5% take-up = .0398 

576 ends, 60/2 American combed -j- 7% take-up = .0245 

768 ends, 150 denier artificial silk -4- 4% take-up = .0267 

56 picks, 100/2 Sea Island hard twist = .0567 

Weaving 

Expenses 



Labor, 

Cotton. waste, etc. 

30c. 48c. 

26c. 21c. 

$2.50 -)- 10c. beaming = 



$ .78 

.47 

2.60 
.78 



Celling 



Grey cost .' 

Bleaching, dyeing and finishing 



Finished cost 
Yards per pound, 6.77. 
Cost at retail, 69 cents. 



J .78 
.47 

2.60 
.78 



$ .0310 
.0115 
.0694 
.0442 
.0147 
.0128 

$ .1836 
.0037 

$ .1S73 
.0300 

$ .2173 



FINE YARN STRIPE 

The cloth we have analyzed is 
one of many which can be obtained in 
most stores. The weight varies to 
quite an extent on these cloths, as dif- 
ferent cloth constructions and stripe 
spacings are used, and the yarns may 
be of many different sizes, but the 
cloths are all light, because fir 3 yarns 
are almost always used in manufac- 
turine. Some M^es of fabrics are finish- 
ed white, and probably most of these 
cloths reach the consumer in this con- 



dition, but many times printed pat- 
terns are used, and sometimes the 
cloth is dyed solid colors. Many cases 
have been noticed where the cloth 
quality was poor and where the con- 
verter, to cover up the effect produced 
by uneven yarn, would have patterns 
printed which more or less eliminated 
this defect. 

The beauty of these fabrics lies in 
the evenness and the sheer effect pro- 
duced. Of course, as it is realized that 
figures which are wovpn on such a 
cloth do not appear well, plain weave 
is invariably used in weaving, and in 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



225 



the yarns used the result will largely 
depend. This means that not only 
must good staple cotton be used to 
make the fine yarn required, but care 
must be exercised in the different 
processes of yarn making. The cost of 
a yarn will vary possibly more in 
fine numbers than in coarse, because 
even though high-piiced cotton is used, 
the material cost is small, as compared 
with the labor cost, whereas in coarse 
yarn the material constitutes the large 
item of expense. The staple of cot- 
ton used in a certain size of yarn will 
vary, and this affects the cost, but the 
economy of management where large 
saving is made in the labor expense 



than lost by the difference in yarn 
and weaving cost. 

Patterns which are made in con- 
structions similar to our sample are 
limited in comparison with gooas made 
on fancy looms, and the large produc- 
tion is confined to plain cloth, checks 
and stripes in various counts and yarn 
sizes. These fabrics are sold largely 
to converters, who have them finished 
and then distribute them in their reg- 
ular channels. Printing establishments 
have bought and used large quan- 
tities of cloths, which they finish and 
print in various patterns. The amounts 
of cloth which are bought are larger 
than in other fancy or fine construc- 



IlilSiiilP! 

ym:M ■■■■:•■■'■■ ' ' - 







,,..E!i.;;;i 

v;:n:i!:!i:.:!:i;.. 
IV "'Ml il 

: III 

: li 81 Bilhltil 

mm 






li I ■ 



Fine Yarn Stripe. 



will more largely affect the yarn price. 
To obtain the best price for the cloth 
produced, or the highest profit, re- 
quires a good deal of judgment, for it 
is sometimes possible to make a poor 
quality of yarn from short staple cot- 
ton, comparatively speaking, and by 
pushing production to the limit, and 
even if the cloth quality is not as good 
as it might be, to sometimes obtain a 
larger profit than if a better article 
were made. To obtain the best pro- 
duction in yarn and in weaving, it is 
necessary to use good cotton, for what 
can be saved in cotton cost is more 



tion lines. This does not mean that 
more total goods are sold, but that 
where a buyer takes 100 pieces of 
fancy cloth he is likely to buy 1,000 
pieces of a fine construction cloth. 
In this way, the individual orders 
to a mill are larger and the costs 
of production less in comparison. Pos- 
sibly, fewer converters handle such 
lines than they do fancy cloth. 

It might be a good thing to say that 
to-day the prices on most lines of fine 
cloths are much lower than in the past, 
for the price of cotton used in these 
cloths will not be much lower, and 



226 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



competition has been keener than for yard, v ut this price varies with the 
some time. Prices are much lower in quality and width. Fabrics are made 
comparison on fine goods than on the on high-speed looms of light con- 
coarser lines to-day. This results struction, and few mills have been 
from the fact that prices on coarser built to make such cloths except in 
lines have not been readjusted to the quite large units. This, of course, 
lower price of short staple cotton. They cuts down many expenses which would 
have been lowered somewhat but not make it hard for a small mill to com- 
as much as they will be under condi- pete for business. In many mills warp 
tions as they are at present. It is a yarn is made on a spinning frame, 
fact that the margin of profit on print while the fine filling is spun on mules, 
cloth is larger to-day than many be- It is a fact that with the use of longer 
lieve, for only five times in the past staple cottons not as large a standard 
twenty-five years has the margin been of twist is necessary to produce as 

pattern. 

i_!i ' 121 121 121 I 121 

80/1 Sea Island combed |12| | 6| l| 2| l| 2| l| 6| I12I = 3,072 total ends. 

v y __ 1 

108 X 
165/1 Sea Island combed; 88 picks. 

40 reed, 30" width in reed, 28" finished width; 109 X 88 finished count over all; 86 X 88 
finished ground count. 

TARNS. 

Cotton. Labor, waste. 
80/1 Sea Island combed, 1%" staple, 16 hank dou. rov., 30c. 26c. =■= 66c. 

165/1 Sea Island combed, 1%" staple, 30 hank dou. rov., 32c. 46c. *= 78c. 

COST. 

3,072 ends, 80/1 Sea Island + i% = .0475 @ 56c. = $ .0266 

88 picks, 165/1 Sea Island = .0191 @ 78c. = .0149 

Weaving .0068 

Expenses .0087 

$ .0570 
Selling .0012 ' 

Grey cost $.0582 

Finishing, etc .0150 

Finished cost I .0732 

Yards per pound, 15.01. 
Plain weave. 
Retail price, 25c. 

more than at the present time. Buy- good results as in coarser sizes of 

ers would do well to consider the yarn, and with many manufacturers 

future, for we do not believe there will too high a standard has been used 

be a much better time to obtain fa- on many yarns to obtain the highest 

vorable prices on fine goods than at break. Manufacturers have been too 

present, and we do not blame buyers busy in many cases to make enough 

for holding off purchases on coarse extended experiments to show them 

goods, for it looks as if better prices that a slightly stronger yarn could be 

jould be obtained later. The only produced with less twist than has 

thing which has kept up coarse cloth sometimes been used and so they 

prices has been the small quantity would govern themselves by someone 

of goods on hand, and it is likely prices else's ideas rather than by facts. We 

will fail as mills of this sort begin have in our analysis placed all the 

to operate. Buyers usually figure warp yarn on one beam. This may or 

prices on a pound basis on fine cloths, may not have been the case in making 

and to show what some of these cost, the cloth, for sometimes small cords 

we will say that the price on can be woven from 

INDIA LINONS, THE SAME BEAM 

which weigh about the same as this as the ground, and in other cases they 

cloth, is In the vicinity of 80 cents require an extra beam. Some mills 

per pound, or over 5 cents per weave satin stripes from a ground 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



227 



beam, while others never have much 
success in this method. The quality 
of the yarn used and the reeding of 
the yarn sometimes determines how 
many beams to use, for take-ups have 
to be somewhat similar to make good 
weaving warps. 

To find the weight of the warp and 
filling used, and from these weights to 
obtain the yards per pound, is a rath- 
er simple proceeding: 

3.072 ends -=- (80 X 840) = .0457, weight of 

warp without take-up. 
.0457 -r- .96 = .0475, weight of warp with 

take-up. 

The weaving take-up as used is 
about 4 per cent. 

88 picks X 30" X 36" 

= 2,640 yds. of filling in 

36" 1 yard of cloth. 

2 640 -+- (840 X 165) = .0191, weight of 

filling. 
.0475 + .0191 = .0666, total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -*- .0666 = 15.01 yards per pound. 

Many of the imported fabrics have 
decorations in embroidery, and for this 
reason, these fabrics cost more than 
the plain cloths. Possibly, the larger 
share of domestic manufactures are 
made so that they sell at a price be- 
low 25 cents per yard. 

In marked contrast to some of the 
costs of manufacture, the price of ma- 
terial, including waste on this cost, 
only amounts to about 43 per cent, 
while the remainder, which constitutes 
the larger share, is made up of labor, 
repairs, insurance, depreciation and 
the various items of cost. Very few of 
the ordinary cloths are made in which 
the material, including waste, does 
not exceed the other items of expense. 
A very small profit per yard, in com- 
parison with that which the retailer 
obtains, is sufficient to make a good 
return upon the capital invested, and 
it is probable that 1 cent per yard is 
as much as a mill would average to 
receive in profits on many fabrics sim- 
ilar to sample. 



JACQUARD SHIRTINGS 

The fabric we have analyzed is one 
on which very many patterns are pro- 
duced and which is sold from year to 
year in more or less regularity. Dif- 
ferent patterns are made up to suit 
the various demands of fashion, but 



the cloth construction and width do 
not vary to any large degree. The 
cloth is made of carded yarn and on a 
jacquard loom and is made to sell in 
place of finer combed yarn cloths, 
which have about the same construc- 
tion. It is a fact that some of these 
carded fabrics are mercerized and 
make serviceable and good materials 
in many ways. In our cost we have 
allowed good staple cotton for making 
the yarn, as it is true that these yarns 
are more often made of shorter cot- 
ton. In our different items of expense, 
we have given figures which are 
known facts, and the results secured 
are rather interesting, in that the 
cloth is being sold more or less at 
present. Prices of material and other 
expenses do not vary largely in to- 
day's basis from those obtaining 
when the cloth was sold. This fab- 
ric was sold or offered for sale by Seth 
Borden and was made in either the 
Hargraves or Parker mills, probably 
in the latter-mentioned plant. 

The original price at the 
beginning of the season was 
12% cents, but before the sea- 
son was through, the price had de- 
clined to 10y 2 cents. It is probable 
that the larger amount of cloth was 
sold at the first price. In considering 
the manufacturing price on our cost, 
no attention need be paid to the fin- 
ishing charges, as these cloths are 
usually sold to converters in the grey 
state and they pay all finishing 
charges, so the grey cloth cost and 
manufacturer's price represent the 
profits secured by the mill which 
made the cloth. 

In our estimate, the total 

COST OF MAKING 

this fabric is about 8 1-7 cents per 
yard. Allowing that 10y 2 cents was 
the price of the cloth to a converter, 
it is evident that a profit of over 2 
cents per yard is obtained, or exactly 
2.35 cents. At this profit per yard a 
loom will earn about $3.50 per week 
or about $182 per year. In a mill of 
1,000 looms, if this same rate of profit 
be secured, the total profit would be 
about $182,000. In the capitalization, 
the amount given is $800,000, so the 
profit secured would be somewhat 



228 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



over 22 per cent if all cloths were 
sold under the same ratio of profit. 
What the profit would be if 12 x / 2 cents, 
the highest price, were used can eas- 
ily be seen, as it would give an earn- 
ing per yard per loom of $286, or about 
a profit of 35 per cent if $800,000 were 
used as tbe total amount invested. 

This fabric was evidently made on 
a 400-jacquard loom and has three 
repeats of the pattern in the width of 
the machine. It is tied up 100 per inch, 
giving a width in the comber board 
of four inches and a grey cloth width 
of about three and three-quarters 
inches and slightly less than this 
width when finished. Looms which 
make fabrics similar to sample have 
double the number of hooks in the 
jacquard head, but they are tied up so 
that two hooks operate one eye, and in 
this machine, which could weave 400 
ends in a pattern, there would be 800 
hooks in the machine head. The rea- 
son for tying up in this manner is 
that a much higher loom speed can 
be obtained, and a fair estimate would 
give a speed of about 145 to 150 picks 
per minute. Some looms are operated 
faster than this, but it is questionable 
whether results warrant higher speeds 
than this or not. 

In making patterns like sample it is 
necessary to have 

THE INDIVIDUAL FIGURES 

grouped so that no open spaces ap- 
pear between figures in either warp 
or filling direction. If this is not done 
bad streaks are likely to result in the 
woven cloth. It is always a good plan 
to make figures overlap slightly, thus 
eliminating much of this trouble. Fig- 
ures are practically always made of 
filling floats, though warp floats are 
sometimes used to bring up special ef- 
fects. The reason why filling floats 
are used largely is that this yarn is 
of softer twist than the warp, cov- 
ering up and making a smoother and 
better effect, and when mercerized, 
the process usually gives the luster to 
the filling yarn, for the cloth is held in 
tension in the cloth width direction. 
The usual method in selling fabrics 
similar to sample is to quote a price 
for the cloth construction, and when 
an order is placed, the buyer will pick 



out patterns which he thinks may be 
suitable for his trade. Sometimes 
much confusion is made by a buyer 
deciding to change his patterns when 
cloth making is in process, and many 
times friction is made between buy- 
ers and sellers for this reason. Many 
methods are used in making similar 
cloths salable, for they are bleached 
and mercerized like sample, they are 
piece-dyed in various colors, and 
are bleached and printed with various 
patterns and colors. A large outlet 
is thus made possible in these lines, 
but probably most of the cloth is sold 
in the white condition, the woven pat- 
tern constituting the only effect in the 
finished cloth. It is certain that most 
of the cloth for the coming summer 
will be bleached and mercerized only 
and not dyed or printed in fabrics of 
this character, so woven figures will 
constitute the effects produced. 
LARGE ORDERS OBTAINED. 

Contrary to the belief of many, it 
can be said that sometimes large or- 
ders are obtained on fabrics of this 
kind. It is true that the number of 
pieces per pattern may be compara- 
tively small, but the number of yards 
woven with a certain cloth construc- 
tion may be large. The only difference 
which obtains between orders on some 
of the coarser lines, and on lines sim- 
ilar to sample, is that designs must be 
changed more often on fancy cloth. 
This is not so large an undertaking 
nor so expensive as many believe, for 
making designs for simple filling float 
figures is a comparatively quick oper- 
ation, as is the cutting of cards for the 
loom. The cost of jacquard cards may 
seem a rather large item, but when 
figured down to the cost per yard 
which is produced, the amount is very 
small, as can be seen from our analy- 
sis of costs. 

In making up the details for placing 
the design upon point paper and in 
the instructions regarding the draw- 
ing-in operation, the foundation Ji,s 
obtained in analyzing the cloth. As 
we have given in the cost estimate, 
the reed used was probably No. 40 
and the jacquard head, a regular 400, 
which was tied up, 100 per inch in the 
comber board, giving a width of four 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



229 



inches, then we have 40 reed times 
four inches equals 160 dents in total 
pattern or machine repeat. 160 dents 
times 2 ends per dent equals 320 ends 
in total pattern or machine repeat. 

As there are three repeats of the 
pattern in the total pattern or ma- 
chine repeat, it can be seen that 320 
will not be exactly the number of ends 
to have the repeats come right, that 
is, the total ends must be either 318 
or 324. The facts are that in a pattern 
similar to the sample analyzed, 320 
ends would probably be used and one 
of the figure repeats be moved over 
two ends, making the figures take up 
106, 106 and 108 ends, respectively, 
giving a total of 320. This change 
never would be noted on a pattern of 
this kind. 

Considering that the jacquard ma- 
chine is made to weave 40-inch cloth, 
we would have 40 inches divided by 4 
inches, one repeat, equals 10 sections 
in the tie-up. As we have figured that 
the warp has 2,420 ends inside the 
selvages and there are 320 ends used 
in one section, we can find the sec- 
tions used and in this way balance the 
cloth in the loom. 

2,420 •*- 320 = 7 sections + 180 ends. 

If we refer to the small diagram it 
will be seen plainly in which sections 
the ends are drawn. The lower half 
represents the total tie-up while the 
upper half represents the ends which 
are used. 




As 400 machines are tied up 8 hooks 
in a row, it can be seen that there are 
50 rows total. If only 320 ends or 
hooks are used, there will be 400 less 
320 equals 80 hooks to cast out. 

80 h- 8 in a row = 10 rows or 5 rows In 
each half section cast out. 

Possibly the best way to cast out 
these roWs would be to cast out rows 
11, 12, 23, 24, 25, 36, 37, 48, 49, 50. 
This splits up the total cast out and 
makes better running work than if the 
total amount was cast out in one 
place. 



From the diagram given it can be 
seen that the warp is balanced in the 
loom, thereby making better work. In- 
structions for drawing-in would be as 
follows: 

Start drawing warp on hook No. 7, 
row No. 9, section No. 2. 

Finishing drawing warp on hook No. 
2, row No. 39, section No. 9. 

If a pattern should be used in which 
stripes or cords were present, the pat- 
tern itself would be balanced in a 
method similar to regular dobby work, 
and if a pattern was balanced and 
called for 50 ends of plain to start, 
these 50 ends would start on the 
point-paper on the 7th hook or end in 
row 9, as above noted. This arrange- 
ment gives accurate results and the 
best looking and running cloth. In 
very many instances, jacquard pat- 
terns are never balanced, detracting 
much from the looks of the woven 
cloth and also its selling ability. Many 
times, it is impossible to make pat- 
terns balance, for designers do not al- 
ways plan the layout in the loom. Pat 
terns have to be sometimes repainted 
for this very reason. 

In making patterns some buyers do 
not understand why some cloths with 
identical constructions do not appear 
as firm as others. They order pat- 
terns with varying sizes of figures and 
others with ground weaves, and be- 
cause some patterns slip, they think 

I 7 I 8 I 9 I 10 

I 320 1160 901 



mills are cutting down on cloth con- 
struction or yarns, when the facts are 
that the less interweaving there is in 
cloth, due to longer floats on ground 
weaves, the more a cloth will slip, and 
the more nearly the weave approaches 
the plain weave the firmer will be the 
result. More care on the part of some 
buyers will eliminate a part of the 
friction which sometimes appears be- 
tween buyers and sellers regarding 
the cloth produced. Two different 
weaves may produce entirely different 
results even if the cloth construction 
be identical. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



PATTERN. 
2 2 

40/1 Am. carded warp. 20 2,240 20 — 2,500, total ends. 
28/1 American carded filling. 72 picks. 

40 reed, 30%" width in reed, 29" grey width, 28" finished width; 85 X 72 grey count: 
88 X 68 finished count. 

YARN. 

Cotton. Labor, waste. 

40/1 Am. carded; IVi" staple; 8 hank dou. rov., 21c. 9c. = 80c. 

28/1 Am. carded; 1*4" staple; 6.5 hank dou. rov., 21c. 7c. = 28c. 

COST. 

2,500 ends, 40/1 Am. carded + 8% take-up = .0809 @ 30c = $ .0243 

72 picks, 28/1 Am. carded = .0941 @ 28c = .0264 

Weaving .0122 

Expenses .0166 

Jacquard cards .0004 

S .0799 
Selling .0016 

Grey, or mill cost % .0815 

Bleaching and finishing .0125 

Finished cost S .0940 

Yards per pound, 5.71 

Mill selling price, 12 %c, reduced later to 10%c. per yard. 

« «» 

CTT V MTYTTTD1? T TMrt dition, as it will be found that when 

ulLTL lulAlUilli LliNU conditions are created whereby 
QPAPUTUP NOVELTY COTTON 

UUnRririu manufacturers can make certain kinds 

of fabrics at a profit, many newer 

Fabrics of various constructions and combinations and effects will be pro 

materials have been used in the past duced than have ever before been 

in quite large quantities for scarfings seen. More ingenuity is possibly re- 

and similar purposes. Many of them quired in cotton novelty making than 

have been made of silk and net, and is necessary in any other line of en- 

as a general thing, they are light in deavor, for not only are a large 

weight and rather expensive to the amount of patterns required, but a 

consumer, because of their method of large number of constructions also, 

manufacture. There has been a large More ideas have possibly been produc- 

sale of such fabrics during the past ed in scarfings since articles were 

year, and it is expected that the manufactured of cotton and silk than 

amount of cloth sold will increase in were seen before. Another instance of 

the future. One reason for the in- cotton novelty cloth progress is seen 

crease in sales is the lower price at in the ideas produced in fancy cotton 

which many new lines are being sold. voiles. Voiles were made in worsted, 

The reason for this is the making of and sold before any were hardly at- 

novelties in silk and cotton by many tempted in cotton, but it is " safe to 

northern mills. These silk and cotton say that to-day the ideas produced in 

cloths, of which the sample we have cotton are far more novel and beauti- 

analyzed is one, are not such good ful than the majority of worsted lines; 

fabrics as many whole silk articles, that is, as far as cotton looms are 

but they look very well indeed, and, of able to produce and the limit of price 

course, the appearance is what sells will warrant with cotton as a ground 

many fabrics, so it has resulted in work. Many lessons might be learned 

many new lines being produced. One from cotton manufacturers to-day by 

thing which is very noticeable is that others, and from appearances it 

the patterns produced are more novel would help in straightening out some 

and better than have ever been pro- of the vexing problems which are 

duced in silk at anywhere near com- present, 
parative prices. This is a general con- One other thing which many people 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



231 



do not realize is that to-day there is 
quite a little competition on the silk 
and cotton, and also on the other 
fancy lines of cloth. Because the retail 
prices are high does not signify that 
the mills have obtained exorbitant 
prices in many cases, for there are 
few lines which to-day are being of- 
fered by mills which have more value, 
everything considered, than many of 
the fancy novelty cloths. The facts 
are that the prices are made closer 
than is believed. This does not mean 
that no profit is madu, or that prices 
do not vary, but it does mean that 

MARGINS ARE CLOSE 

in most cases. When the price of 
silk varies 15 per cent, or more, some- 
times, in a short time, it is necessary 



care in prices, but it is a fact that, 
taken as a whole, few cotton manu- 
facturers are able to give accurate 
costs on fabrics, except where only a 
few grades of cloth are made, and 
then they cannot give detailed figures. 
In woolen lines, it is true that a very 
large improvement could be made, for 
in many cases, prices are not made 
which compare with the costs of pro- 
duction. 

The cloth we are considering is a 
simple weave. The stripes are plain, 
and on each edge is a leno weave 
which holds each stripe in place, and 
keeps the openwork as clear as pos- 
sible. The leno weave changes every 
second pick, because with a change 
of every pick, the weave would be too 
close, and would cut the light filling. 



Silk Mixture Leno Scarfing. 



to vary prices, but the mills receive 
little benefit unless gambling is re- 
sorted to, and, of course, this is not 
the way to run a mill, as some have 
found out. It is a fact that many cot- 
ton manufacturers are more accurate 
and systematic in keeping track of 
their costs than in other lines. Pos- 
sibly, this is because larger plants are 
the rule, In the North, at least, in cot- 
ton lines, and necessity compels more 



Even with the construction used, the 
fabric slips somewhat, due to the large 
amount of openwork used. The cloth 
has only 140 doups, and it is probable 
a weaver could run four looms, for 
the cloth is narrow, and the filling 
runs well. If a weaver could run but 
two looms, the increase in weaving 
cost would be somewhat over two 
cents, so the saving here represents a 
large amount. Weavers have run four 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



looms successfully on much harder 
cloth to weave than this, so our 

ESTIMATE IS REASONABLE. 

These cloths are practically always 
woven in the grey, and then finished 
and dyed. Fast colors to stand bleach- 
ing are being used to a certain extent 
to produce desired results. Many fab- 
rics in fancy weaves, with the same 
construction as is used in this scarf- 
ing, have been sold at less than '11% 
cents in the grey state for 27 inches 
wide. These fabrics are retailing for 
25 cents per yard. Considering the 
price at which mills have sold these 
fabrics, it is safe to say that very few 
lines in woolen cloths are produced on 
so narrow a margin of profit. Cotton 
manufacturers have been giving bet- 
ter cloth at closer prices than is gen- 
erally believed, but it is a fact that 
consumers have benefited very little, 
even if makers have reduced prices, 
and are supplying better cloth, too. 
What mills need to-day is a large de- 
mand, so that orders can be procured 
to keep their looms in operation, for, 
with full production, the prices re- 
ceived would, in the majority of cases, 
be satisfactory. High prices to the 
consumer seem to restrict a large sale, 
and manufacturers are suffering in a 
large measure for conditions which 
they have had nothing to do with; in 
fact, the prices quoted by manufactur- 
ers to-day, on fancy and fine goods, 
should mean a large demand, but un- 
fortunately, it has not. 

Fabrics made from silk and cotton 
are handled in increasing quantity by 
regular silk houses which convert 
them and sell to the retailers, and 
which, in many cases, conduct their 
business similar to converting jobbers, 
and, of course, receive converting job- 
bers' profits. This cloth was made 
when silk was cheaper than at pres- 
ent, so the figured cost, which repre- 
sents to-day's basis, may have been 
made lower, because of a lower ma- 
terial charge. The total warp cost is 
only about 1% cents, so it shows how 
accurate figures must be to even be 
fairly reliable. 

Nearly all fabrics which have open- 
work stripes, and in which silk or 
any slippery yarn is used, have leno 



ends woven on the openwork edges, 
to keep the stripes in place, for they 
are likely to slip badly in use. Heavy 
yarn, if used for leno ends, is likely 
to cut the fine silk filling. In many 
of the silk fabrics which are composed 
of part cotton, it is a fact that the 
silk used will vary surprisingly, not 
only in the yards per pound in the 
same lot of silk, but some manufactur- 
ers will make a pattern and use a finer 
silk to produce it so as to compete 
with other more expensive yarn. Of 
course, a good manufacturer makes a 
contract and usually states the quality 
of yarn to be used, which 

ELIMINATES ALL TROUBLE 

of such nature, but it cannot elimi- 
nate the variation in size to which the 
yarn is subject. Where the practice is 
used is when buyers have ordered a 
certain pattern with a certain silk, 
and then when the cloth appears to be 
selling well, to place more orders with 
a finer silk, and make no change in 
price, and many buyers think they are 
obtaining the same cloth, which they 
are not. Buyers have insisted that 
they were protecting themselves, lest 
others offer cloths of lower count, or 
of finer silk, to sell at a lower price, 
but many times, it was not done for 
this purpose, and we do not believe 
buyers have known the quality re- 
ceived, for it is sometimes hard for an 
expert to tell what size silk has been 
used, especially if the cloth has been 
worked much to spread out the fi- 
bres. The only way to ascertain, in 
such cases, is with a large magnify- 
ing glass, which few have, and be- 
sides cloth is not bought by jobbers 
or retailers in this manner. Mills de- 
liver the quality of cloth called for, 
and the substitution is done after the 
mill has delivered the goods. Buyers 
know quite a little in regard to cloth 
construction in fancy cotton lines, but 
knowledge should not be used in a 
wrong manner. 

It is a good thing to have buyers 
in cotton understand something of 
cloth construction, as it results in bet- 
ter cloth from the mills, and it would 
be a good thing for many woolen buy- 
ers to obtain some knowledge of cloth, 
for they are sadly lacking in this re- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



233 



spect. Large retailers should also 
check up their deliveries from con- 
verters. The large retailers who aro 
doing converting seem destined to 
solve many of the problems which 
confront buyers and consumers to- 
day. They are at least getting large 
returns from the knowledge of cloth 
which they are applying to their sys- 
tems of distribution, and they usually 
get the quality of cloth they desire, 
and are not likely to change the con- 
struction. The silk yardage we have 
used in figuring our weights is not 
the theoretical yardage for this size 
silk but it is an assumed yardage ar- 
rived at from actual tests, which will 
protect the manufacturer when the 
silk yardage varies, as has been pre- 
viously stated. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DYEING. 
This sample is dyed a solid color 
on both the cotton and silk. It is of 
a pale blue shade, and can be very 
conveniently obtained, with direct cot- 
ton colors so selected that the dye- 
stuff will work equally well on both 
fibres. The following formula is rec- 
ommended for dyeing this color: 1-10 
per cent diamine blue, R. W. (Cassella 
Color Company.) 



This amount of color is to be taken 
on the weight of material to be dyed 
and added to the dye-bath, which 
should also contain three ounces of 
soap, one ounce of soda and four 
ounces of Glauber's salt to each 10 
gallons of the dye -liquid. 

This material is dyed in the piece, 
and most conveniently in the ordi- 
nary dye-kettle, used for piece-dyeing. 
The water employed for the prepara- 
tion of the dye-bath should be as soft 
as possible, in order to preserve the 
brilliancy of the silk, and to obtain the 
true pure tone of the color. When all 
of the ingredients, together with tht 
dyestuff, have been added to the bath, 
the liquor should be brought to the 
temperature of 140 degrees Fahren- 
heit, and the goods run for one hour 
at that temperature. After the dyeing 
has been completed, the goods should 
be rinsed off in soft water, or if this is 
not available, a little soda should be 
added to the water in order to cor- 
rect its hardness. 

In order to increase the brilliancy 
of the silk after dyeing, the goods may 
be run through a diluted bath of 
acetic acid, containing about two 
ounces of acetic acid to 10 gallons of 



PATTERN. 



60/1 Am.) — 1 

cmb. wp. 161 8 
60/2 Am. 

cmb. wp. 

4X 53 X 

14/16 2 thread Canton silk filling; 76 picks. 
46 reed, 25%" width in reed, 24" grey width, 24" 
53 X 76 over all count. 

YARNS. 




I 81161=1,000 
4| I I— 280 



finished width; 99 

Labor, 
Cotton. waste. 
60/2 Am. comb, warp; 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov.. 26c. 17c. 

60/1 Am. comb, warp; 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 26c. 17c. 

14/16 2 thread Canton silk; 135,000 yds. per lb.; ready on quills 



4X Total 1,280 
X 76 ground count; 



Twisting. 

4c. = $ .47 

= .43 

= 3.55 



COST. 

1,000 ends, 60/1 Am. combed + 4% take-up = .0206 @ $ .43 = $ .0089 

280 ends, 60/2 Am. combed -j- 15% take-up = .0131 @ .47 = .0062 

76 picks, 14/16 2 thread Canton silk = .0145 @ 3.55 = .0515 

Weaving .0215 

Expenses .0187 

$ .1068 

Selling .0021 

Cost grey $.1089 

Finishing, dyeing, etc .0300 

Cost finished , $.1389 

Yards per pound, 80.76. 
Rstall prlc«, 27c, 



234 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



liquor, and dried without rinsing. 
After the brightening has been com- 
pleted, the goods should be run over 
a spreader for the purpose of straight- 
ening out the goods and then dried 
over ordinary drying cans without too 
much tension being put on the fabric. 



SILK MIXTURE FAST COLOR 
NOVELTIES 

In our analysis of these fabrics we 
have given the patterns of both cloths, 
but the cost applies only to the blue 
sample. The yarns are identical in the 
samples, but the reed width in the blue 



opportunities in these lines. Many 
nrlls use colors which are called fast, 
and they are to an extent fast, but 
they will not stand a bleaching proc- 
ess, while the colors used in these 
samples are practically as bright as 
before the bleaching process. There 
are samples of cloth made that con- 
tain silk yarn which when bleached 
are still fast and bright, but they have 
not been sold to as large an extent as 
they will be later, when the results 
can be seen. 

What the above facts mean is little 
appreciated by many in the trade, for 
they have not felt the effects as yet, 
but sooner or later it will be hard for 
certain mills to obtain orders. This 
will be brought about by the fact that 
many lines of cloth can be made cheap- 








Heliotrope Shirting. 



striped cloth is 38*4 inches, while the 
reed width of the heliotrope fabric is 
38 inches. It will be found that the 
cost of producing different patterns 
will vary little, as will be explained 
later. 

These cloths are some of the newest 
ideas in manufacturing, for not only 
are they novelties, inasmuch as they 
contain silk, but they also contain 
yarn which is dyed before weaving 
and which has been bleached when 
woven. It is only within a short time 
that such colors have been used, and 
it is certain that the future holds large 



er and possibly better by this method. 
The past summer has seen the be- 
ginning, in a large way, of certain 
changes which are bound to follow. It 
is a fact that men are not wearing 
shirtings with large amounts of color 
in them as formerly, and it is true 
that fabrics, generally, of this char- 
acter are better looking if quite a lit- 
tle white is used in their make-up. For 
this reason, it can be seen that cloth 
can be produced cheaper by using a 
small number of fast-colored ends and 
bleaching the cloth when woven, for 
it is much easier and cheaper to bleach 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



986 



cloth than it is yarn. Not only is it 
cheaper, but it is also possible to use 
soft twist yarn for filling, and this al- 
lows the cloth to be mercerized in the 
piece, which adds much to the appear- 
ance when sold. Because more twist 
is needed so that yarns can be handled 
satisfactorily when they are used in a 
yarn-dyed fabric, mercerization adds 
but little to the looks of a fabric, so 
this process is seldom used. 

The use of yarn of this character 
places almost any grey cloth mill in a 
position to make many varieties of 
cloths which it otherwise could not 
produce, and makes the amount of 
cloth sold by purely shirting mills 
much smaller. Not only do the above 
facts stand out clearly, but it is also 
true that grey fabric mills are able to 
produce, generally, cloths of large va- 



Take the cloth analyzed and it will 
be seen that the ground warp is 60-1. 
Few colored shirting mills use yarn 
much finer than 40-1, and most use 
30-1 in their shirtings, while 60-1 is 
only a medium size in a grey mill 
which makes fancy and fine cloths. In 
fabrics, color and cords are used for 
decorative purposes, and it can be 
seen that, although the color is 30-1, 
the cloth effect is given by the 60-1 
used. 

Many fine shirtings will te produced 
soon which cannot be approached by 
a regular shirting mill and which will 
displace more or less fabrics made by 
the older type of mills. Even at pres- 
ent the older mills have had to de- 
velop other lines of colored novelties 
to keep their looms in operation, and 
their sales are continually growing 



, ii ;,^ :1 .;,., i , ,.,,,,;,,,. 



Blue Shirting. 



riety in regard to sizes of yarn used. 
Shirting mills have only a few qual- 
ities of fabrics, that is, their yarn sizes 
do not vary much, and their patterns 
are produced by different colors and 
cords in various spacings and combi- 
nations, while in a grey mill it is the 
weave and yarn size, together with the 
cloth construction used, which give 
the result. It can thus be seen that 

MUCH FINER CLOTH, 
regarding yarn and count, can be pro- 
duced in a grey yarn mill. 



smaller. This fact is seen from the 
statement that the large shirt manu- 
facturers are buying cloth in increas- 
ing amounts from grey mills and then 
having the cloth finished at a regular 
finishing plant, whereas formerly, in 
some cases, they bought a larga share 
of the product of shirting mills. 

Many instances of the above are be- 
coming known, and it is certain that 
shirt makers are obtaining their cloth 
cheaper than ever, or if not cheaper, 
then they are receiving better quality 



236 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



for the same price, when cloth selling 
conditions are considered. 

Some of these older mills are rather 
skeptical regarding the cloth selling 
prices in these lines, and claim 
cloths cannot be maae for the prices 
at which they are sold, but the fact 
remains that the cloths are sold, and 
mills making them declare good divi- 
dends. Mills making cloths of this 
nature have no dyehouses and usually 
have the yarn dyed at a dyeing plant. 
Of course, this costs somewhat more 
than if done at one's own plant, but it 
saves the outlay for a dyehouse, and 
as the amounts used are not large, the 
added cost is small, as far as the cost 
of producing goes. 

Regarding the two cloths analyzed, 
it can be stated that they are made for 
various purposes, and are a distinct 
improvement on some of the past fab- 
rics. They will be used to quite an 
extent for shirtings for men. Some 
may say that this will affect the sale 
of regular cloths but little, yet it is 
believed that the wear will be sat- 
isfactory, and it is very likely that 
they will displace some of the all-cot- 
ton fabrics. Cloth will not cost a 
shirt maker over 75 cents per shirt, 
and this should make the retail price 
reasonable to many men. It will be 
seen that the largest item in produc- 
ing is the cost of the silk. This is al- 
most 12 cents per yard or over one- 
h3lf the total cost. 

In some fabrics a lighter silk is 
used, which reduces the cost some- 
what, but, naturally, this silk does not 
wear as well. It is to be noted that 
there is quite a large number of picks. 
When fabrics were first made of cot- 
ton and silk, the above count was used 
in the make-up, but the picks were 
gradually reduced to 96, and then low- 
er, so that at present much of the 
plain warp variety is made in a count 
of 96 by 76. When these fabrics were 
first produced, 

THE RETAIL PRICE 

was about 50 cents for a cloth 26 
inches wide. 

The cloths being considered are 36 
Inches wide, and not only this, but 
they have color in the warps, and the 
retail price is but 45 cents. This does 
not mean that the retail price is what 



it should be, but it shows that there 
is much more value given than pre- 
viously. In finishing, the cloth is 
bleached, and when it is stretched and 
folded, it is ready to ship. Few pat- 
terns are being sold as yet, but many 
are being made, and they will appear 
the coming spring. Not only are there 
stripes like the samples, but 
similar patterns with dobby figures, 
also checks in various sizes and col- 
ors, with woven figures in both 
dobby and jacquard ideas, and also 
many styles of jacquard designs. 
It is believed many cloths of this na- 
ture will be sold and used. 

It is probably true that many fabrics 
for ladies' wear will not have as large 
a number of picks as the samples con- 
sidered, and the price will be some- 
what less, but it is also true that for 
men's shirtings a firm texture is nec- 
essary, and it is believed that if re- 
sults be satisfactory, the number of 
picks should not be much lower than 
those considered. In weaving, it is 
necessary to keep an even tension on 
the colored yarn beams, for if this is 
not done, the smooth, even effect is 
lost, and the colored yarn will pucker 
up in the cloth, sometimes spoiling the 
result. No change is necessary to 
weave such fabrics on an ordinary 
loom except a shuttle to hold the 
silk quiil as received from the throw- 
ster. Percentages of production are 
usually as large or larger than if cot- 
ton filling were employed, and the 
number of looms per weaver is as 
large as on fancy weaves in all-cotton 
cloths. 

There are two sizes of cotton silk 
which are largely used by cotton mills, 
one is the regular 14-16 two-thread 
quality and the other is 22-26 single 
Canton. Both are used for the same 
purposes, and the 22-26 single, which 
is somewhat finer and also cheaper, is 
used to cheapen the designs produced 
in 14-16 two-thread, although the dif- 
ference in costs is not so large as 
might be thought. We have used in 
our figures a yardaee of 135.000 for 
14-16 two-thread. This is not the the- 
oretical yardage, but is a practical fig- 
ure used to protect the manufacturer 
from variation in silk sizes. It is to 
be noted that finished widths in these 
fabrics are about as wide as the grey 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



237 



widths from the looms. The shrinkage Ing operation is rather slow, orders 
in weaving will be about two inches in must be placed soon or deliveries wil 1 
ordinary cases, but the number of be too late for the coming season. 



PATTERN BLUE SAMPLE. 



60/1 American combed 

30/1 American combed blue. 
30/3 American carded 



2 

12 




32 


1 


2 
1 1 


4 


1 


2 


1 


32 




2 
12 



= 2,564 
= 276 
= 276 



69 X 
14/16 2 end Canton silk; 120 picks. 

PATTERN HELIOTROPE SAMPLE. 



60/1 Am. c'mb|12| 



30/1 Am. c'mb 

heliotiope. . 

30/3 Am. c'rd 




16 14 



3 

1 

3 X 



3,116 



2,808 



= 380 
= 138 



3,326 



23 X 



14/16 2 end Canton silk; 120 picks. 
44 reed, 38%" width in reed. 36" grey width, 3%" finished width; S6 X 120 grey count over 
all; 87 X 116 finished count over all; 93 X 120 ground count. 



60/1 Am. comb., 1% 
30/1 Am. comb., 1%' 
30/3 Am. card., 1V 10 ' 



YARNS. 

Cotton, 
sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 24c. 
sta.; 6 hank dou. rov., 16c. 
sta.; 6 hank dou. rov., 14c. 



Labor & 

waste. 
16 %c. 

8 c. 

5%c. 



Twist- 
ing. 



14/16 2 end Canton silk; 135,000 yds. per lb. On quills; 

COST BLUE SAMPLE. 

2,564 ends, 60/1 Am. combed + 6% take-up = .0540 

276 ends, 30/1 Am. combed blue + 10% take-up = .0122 

276 ends, 30/3 Am. carded + 2% take-up = .0336 

120 picks, 14/16 2 end Canton silk = .0340 

Weaving 

Expenses 



Dyeing. 
16c. = 



i .40% 
.40 
.23% 
3.50 



Selling 



Mill cost 

Bleaching, finishing, etc. 



Finished cost 

Yards per pound = 7.47. 
Retail price, 45c. per yard. 
Mill price, 22 %c. per yard. 

k 

cords in the design is likely to affect 
each result somewhat. 

The heavy cords are reeded one in 
a dent in both fabrics, while the col- 
ored and ground yarns are reeded 
two in a dent. The threads are all 
woven plain in these cloths, but the 
effects produced are distinctly novel. 
Some of the future designs which are 
not on the market as yet show not 
only novel effects produced with col- 
ored yarn and cords, but also many 
ingenious adaptations in the weaves 
used, and there should be a ready sale 
for much of this cloth. As the weav- 



$ .40% 
.40 
.23% 
3.50 



$ .0219 
.0049 
.0079 
.1190 
.0193 
.0251 

$ .1981 
.0040 

$ .2021 
.0150 

$ .2171 



Dyeing Particulars. 

There is only one color to be con- 
sidered in this fabric, and that is a 
lavender shade dyed on a cotton stripe 
in the warp. For the dyeing of this 
color it is recommended to use sulphur 
dyestuffs, as these will stand the sub- 
sequent treatment given the fabric for 
the bleaching. The usual run of di- 
rect cotton dyes would not be satis- 
factory, for this fabric after being 
woven is bleached in a solution of hy- 
drogen peroxide for the purpose of 
whitening both the cotton and the silk. 



228 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



If direct cotton dyes were employed in 
this case the color would bleed to a 
considerable extent onto both the 
white cotton warp and the white silk 
filling. By the use of suitable sulphur 
dyes, however, the color can be ob- 
tained so that it will not bleed when 
bleached in the hydrogen peroxide 
bath. For the production of this lav- 
ender shade the dyeing may be carried 
out as follows: For 100 pounds of yarn 
use a bath containing 1 pound of im- 
medial violet C and one pound of sodi- 
um sulphide crystals. 

Dye for one hour at a temperature 
of 160 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. 
While with the majority of sulphur 
dyes it is customary to add to the dye- 
bath soda ash and also a considerable 
quantity of either Glauber's salt or 
common salt, these conditions are not 
to be recommended in the case of dye- 
ing with immedial violet C. It will 
also be noted that 

THE TEMPERATURE 

of the dye-bath snould not be greater 
than 180 degrees Fahrenheit. This is 
for the purpose of maintaining the full 
brilliancy of the color. After the yarn 
has been dyed it should be well wash- 
ed off in fresh water and then washed 
off in a second bath with a solution 
containing one ounce of soap to 10 gal- 
lons of water. This scouring bath 
should be employed at a temperature 
of 160 degrees Fahrenheit. The yarn 
is then hydro-extracted and dried. 
The fabric after weaving is given a 
slight bleaching with hydrogen perox- 
ide. This is done by immersing the 
cloth in a solution containing 1 gallon 
of hydrogen peroxide (3 per cent) to 
10 gallons of water. Sufficient silicate 
of soda is then added to this solution 
to insure the bath being slightly alka- 
line in reaction. The bleaching bath 
is started at a temperature of 160 de- 
grees Fahrenheit, and the goods are 
left submerged therein for 8 to 10 
hours, or most conveniently over- 
night. Sufficient heat is left on the 
bath during this time to keep it at a 
temperature of about 100 degrees Fah- 
renheit. After bleaching, the goods 
are removed and well washed In soft 
water. 

This sample Is very similar in its 
general make-up to the preceding 



sample. There is only one color to be 
considered and that is the light blue 
dyed on the stripe in the cotton warp. 
This color should also be dyed with 
the sulphur dyes so that it may stand 
the subsequent bleaching process with 
hydrogen peroxide. In order to pro- 
duce this color the following procedure 
is recommended: For 100 pounds of 
yarn use a bath prepared as follows: 
One pound, 2 ounces, of immedial sky- 
blue powder, 1 pound sodium sulphide 
crystals and 8 ounces of soda ash. 

To the above should also be added 
for each 10 gallons of liquor iy 2 
ounces of Turkey red oil and iy 2 
pounds of desiccated Glauber's salt. 
These proportions are to be taken for 
the first or starting bath and if subse- 
quent lots are to be dyed it will only 
require about two-thirds the amount 
of dyestuffs and the corresponding 
quantity of sodium sulph.de, while the 
amount of soda ash can be reduced to 
4 ounces, Turkey red oil to 1 ounce, 
and the Glauber's salt to 8 ounces, the 
amounts of the last two ingredients 
being based on 10 gallons' volume of 
the dye-bath. The immedial sky-blue 
should be well dissolved by boiling up 
with the sodium sulphide and soda ash 
previous to the addition of these in- 
gredients to the dye-bath. A pro- 
longed boiling of the dyestuff solution, 
however, should be avoided, as it is 
liable to 

CAUSE A DECOMPOSITION 

of the coloring matter. The dyeing 
should be carried out by entering the 
yarn at a temperature of 85 degrees 
Fahrenheit, then gradually raising the 
temperature to about 100 degrees 
Fahrenheit, and continuing the dyeing 
for three-quarters of an hour. The 
yarn should then be taken out of the 
dye-bath, squeezed and hung up in the 
air for about an hour to allow for the 
full development of the color. It 
should then be given an after-treat- 
ment in a fresh bath with 2 per cent 
of potassium bichromate and 3 per 
cent of acetic acid. After this the 
yarn is once again well rinsed off and 
finally brightened in a soap bath con- 
taining 1 ounce of soap per 10 gallons 
of water at a temperature of 160 de- 
grees Fahrenheit. This fabric has 
also been bleached In the piece with 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



239 



hydrogen peroxide in a manner similar 
to that of the foregoing sample, the 
bleaching being conducted as follows: 
Prepare a bath containing 1 gallon 
of hydiogen peroxide (3 per cent) to 
10 gallons of water and add sufficient 
sodium silicate to make the bath dis- 
tinctly alkaline in reaction. This 
bleaching bath is started at a temper- 
ature of 160 degrees Fahrenheit. The 
goods are entered and submerged be- 
neath the liquor and left for from 8 
to 10 hours or more conveniently over- 
night, sufficient heat being left on the 
bath to maintain its temperature at 
about 100 degrees Fahrenheit. After 
bleaching, the goods are removed from 
the bath and well washed in soft 
water. 



CHECK FLAXON 

The fabrics which are sold under 
this trade name are used largely at 
present. Styles are made in various 
patterns and counts, but, in general, 
they are all rather light cloths, al- 
though some of the fabrics would be 
designated as of medium weight. 
Many uses are found for the various 
lines, such as waists and dresses, and 
they are used for various styles of em- 
broidery by the sellers of such cloths. 

Buyers had an idea at one time that 
the fabrics were partly of linen, and 
that this was the reason for their high 
luster, but this notion is no longer 
held, for the cloths are of cotton whol- 
ly, and the finish is obtained after the 
cloth is woven. Most of the 
grades retail at twenty- five cents 
per yard. There is **n agree- 
ment between the seller and the job- 
bers that no cloth will be sold to re- 
tailers over the jobbers' heads, so re- 
tailers of necessity must purchase 
from jobbers. There is also an under- 
standing regarding prices, and the 
usual allowance is made, in order 
that the jobber can sell to the retailer 
at a price, so the latter will sell to 
the consumer at 25 cents per yard 
the grades which are supposed to be 
sold at this price. Few retailers are 
willing to depart from the prices 
which are named, for it is more than 
likely that no more cloth can be ob- 



tained if this is done. There has been 
and is more or less friction regarding 
prices, but as these cloths are highly 
advertised, and as they are good sell- 
ers for this reason, retailers very sel- 
dom break the prices named. 

Possibly, it may not be well known, 
but it is a fact that on light-weight 
fabrics if fine yarns be used, any 
woven figure will not show up well 
when the cloth is finished unless a 
different process be employed than on 
ordinary fabrics. This statement also 
holds true on 

STRIPES AND CHECKS 
to an extent, for if any weave is em- 
ployed it is hardly distinguishable 
unless carefully examined. There 
would be no object in using a weave 
under such conditions, so almost all 
fabrics with a fancy weave were form- 
erly of medium or of rather heavy 
weight. This was done so that when 
sold the weave would show. Until 
the method now employed was adopt- 
ed, or at least a similar process, few 
cloths of fine yarn had any weave in 
their construction except plain weave. 
To-day, there are many fabrics being 
sold with fine yarns and woven figures 
on which the pattern can be as dis- 
tinctly seen as on some of the coarser 
cloths. 

This result is, of course, done in the 
process of finishing. The fabric when 
sold has a gloss which brings out the 
woven pattern, and a crisp, harsh feel 
which many heavier cloths do not 
have. The various finishing plants do 
not supply information regarding the 
processes used in finishing, but the 
probabilities are that similar methods 
are employed in all cases. It must 
not be thought that the line of cloths 
referred to is the only one which is 
to-day given this finish, for it is not 
and many houses sell similar fabrics. 
It can be stated here that the finish 
given is purely a finish, and a large 
part of it will wash out when the 
cloth is laundered. 

The process given consists of first 
bleaching the fabric, and when this is 
done, together with various prelim- 
inary processes, the fabric is given a 
mercerizing similar to many of the 
heavier cloths. This gives a small 
gloss to the fine yarn used, but it pr»- 



240 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



pares a foundation for the following 
treatment. This consists i 1 running 
the cloth through a solution in which 
there is a transparent gum and which 
gives the gloss to the cloth and makes 
the figure stand out on the cloth. The 
gum also gives the crisp feel which 
the cloth has. No heavy calendering is 
used, for this would be likely to spoil 
the effect somewhat. From the above 
it can be seen that the individual 
threads are more or less similar to 
small glass rods when the process is 
completed. 

As is well known, the beauty of any 
fine cloth lies in the 

EVENNESS OF THE YARN 
of which the fabric is woven. This 
is illustrated clearly by the state- 
ment that some makers of fine cloths 



follow. One thing which it is always 
necessary to do in making any kind 
of a fabric is to have the yarn strong 
enough to stand the strain of weaving. 
Some yarns will weave well on plain 
work, but will break when quite a 
number of harnesses are used, and for 
this reason, the percentage of produc- 
tion will be low. If a good production 
be obtained on plain, and a poor pro- 
duction on fancy patterns with the 
same yarn, it should be investigated 
and corrected if possible. Some pat- 
terns will run badly in any case be- 
cause of the weave combinations used 
or the crowding of ends, but the high- 
est production possible should be aim- 
ed for. 

A fact which is not generally 
known is that yarn will run satis- 




Check Flaxon. 



have a hard time in obtaining market 
prices for their fabrics, while others 
can obtain somewhat more than the 
ruling price. The difference in price 
is largely explained by the difference- 
in yarn quality. The quality of yarn 
being dependent somewhat on the cot- 
ton used, it will probably be true that 
there is not always the difference in 
profit which is believed when prices 
vary, because in the better cloth it is 
likely that better cotton was used, al- 
though this conclusion does not always 



factorily in a jacquard pattern which 
cannot be used on ordinary dobby 
figures. This is caused by the fact 
that the variation in lift from front 
to back harness on the jacquard is 
less than that on the dobby harness, 
and there is little strain on the yarn. 
A better percentage of production will 
be obtained at the same speed on a 
jacquard than on a dobby pattern if 
yarn and other conditions are equal. 
The number of looms to an 
operative would be identical In 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



241 



most cases on jacquard and dobby 
work, if the cloth woven were of sim- 
ilar construction. Much more care 
is necessary in the making of fine 
cloth than in the manufacture of 
coarse fabrics, for many times cloth 
which would pass as a first would be 
called a second in fine woven fabrics. 
As seconds are sold at a reduction of 
5 per cent and only 5 per cent of sec- 
onds are allowed by contract, it fol- 
lows that a mill which makes a larger 
proportion of seconds than this 
amount stands to lose more than their 
profit, because buyers do not want 
them, except at a large sacrifice, and if 
they are sold for a reduction, it will be 
likely to hurt the sale of the original 
seller, for the cloth will be offered 
at a lower price. This makes the 
identical cloth on the market for two 
prices, and it is needless to say that 
some friction is likely to result. 

A great variety of patterns are pro- 
duced in fine fabrics. Because of the 
yarn used many of the most salable 
styles are made by combinations of 
different sizes of yarns in checks and 
stripes. Instead of using two or more 
sizes of yarns it is sometimes possible 
to produce the same effects by crowd- 
ing yarn together. Many cloths are 



made which have heavy woven figures, 
which are sheared off, and a fine 
ground. In many instances, the ef- 
fects are produced by contrasts with 
heavy and light places in the woven 
fabric. 
Yarns and cloth are 

LIGHTER WHEN WOVEN 

and finished than would appear if the 
original yarn be considered. The yarn 
loses weight in handling and in weav- 
ing, and the cloth is usually pulled 
some in finishing. Few experiments 
which are accurate have ever been 
made along these lines. Results will 
vary, depending on the conditions ex- 
isting in both weaving and finishing. 
Facts are known more accurately in 
many of the newer fine mills than 
they are in some of the older colored 
mills. Possibly, this situation has de- 
veloped from conditions existing, for 
in colored mills yarns are usually of 
few sizes, and the styling is done by 
color combinations, while in grey cloth 
where woven figures are used, weave 
combinations and the use of various 
sizes of yarns give the results. 

The selling house which produced 
flaxon also produced soiesette. There 
is no doubt that the making of cloths 



PATTERN. 
2 1 3 2 3 



50/1 American combed 20 

70/1 American combed 



Ill 



20 = 2,390 
= 1,540 



77 X 3,930 total ends. 

100/1 American combed filling'; 96 picks. 

38 reed; 35" width in reed; 33" grey width; 32%," finished width; 119 X 96 grey count 
over all; 122 X 94 finished count over all. 



TARNS. 

50/1 Am. combed; 1%" sta. ; 10 hank double roving, 

70/1 Am. combed; 1%" sta.; 14 hank double roving, 

100/1 Am. combed; 1%" sta.; 22 hank double roving, 



Cotton. 
21c. 
24c. 
27c. 



Labor & waste. 
14%c. 
20%c. 
34%c. 



35%c. 
44 %c. 

eiMsc 



COST. 

2,390 ends, 50/1 Am. combed + 4% take-up = .0593 @ 35*4c. = $ .0209 

1,540 ends, 70/1 Am. combed + 5% take-up = .0276 @ 44 %c. = .0123 

96 picks, 100/1 Am. combed = .0400 @ 61%c. = .0246 

Weaving .0144 

Expenses .0189 

$ .0911 

Finishing, etc .0150 



Yards per pound, 7.88. 
Retailers price, 25c. per yard. 
Jobbers price, 16 %c. per yard. 
Commission price, 14%c. per yard. 
Mill price, about 12c. per yard, 



$ .1061 



242 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



for mercerization, of which the above 
was possibly the leader, has added 
a large field to the making of fancy 
cloth. The sale of these constructions, 
with the use of fast colors and in 
various fancy weaves, is increasing 
rapidly, and is displacing many of the 
other lines used for similar purposes. 
The method of manufacture has re- 
sulted in reductions in prices which 
a few years ago would have seemed 
hardly possible. The large increase 
which is noted in the work done by 
purely finishing plants has been made 
possible through these new lines, be- 
cause better work at a cheaper cost 
can be produced. Adaptation of new 
ideas on old cloths is an art in itself, 
and almost every new idea evolves 
others, so that the industry is bound 
together as a whole. The makers who 
first adopt such ideas are likely to 
receive large rewards in the way of 
increased business and profits, and 
not only this, but there is much good 
which always results to the trade in 
general through improved cloths or 
methods of making and finishing. 



SILK MIXTURE GROSS-DYED 
NOVELTY 

The fabric of which we have given 
the analysis is one which many of 
the newer cotton mills are to-day 
making in quite large quantity. These 
fabrics are finished in various ways, 
but the larger portion are dyed solid 
shades. Some lines of these cloths 
are dyed so that one kind of yarn will 
be one color, while the other yarn 
will be a different color. This gives 
what is called a cross-dyed effect, and 
the sample considered is one of these 
results, though in the cloth in ques- 
tion, the warp is dyed black, while 
the filling remains white. It is a fact 
that raw silk will in most cases give 
better results than if spun silk be 
used. The new combinationc which are 
being made and the use of fast colors 
to stand bleaching on cotton and silk 
have added much variety to cloth 
production in grey cloth mills, for it 
is now possible to use fast colors on 
yarn in weaving grey cloth, and to 



produce some lines of three-color ef- 
fects. These have not been used 
largely as yet, but the amount pro- 
duced is likely to increase. Until re- 
cently, it was necessary to use dyed 
yarns for various grades of cloth 
which are to-day being made of grey 
yarns and at a reduction in the mill 
cost. 

SIZES OF YARN USED. 

In the making of this fabric, a num- 
ber of sizes of yarns were used for 
the warp. These various yarns are 
run on one beam at the slasher. 
There is no pattern attempted, and 
they are placed in a hit or miss ar- 
rangement. Some have never been 
able to get satisfactory results by 
using various sizes of yarn from the 
same beam, but it is a fact that many 
adopt this method with good results 
and a decided saving in trouble. 
Some mills are in the habit of run- 
ning different sizes of yarn in colors 
on the same beam, but this process 
requires care, especially on some pat- 
terns. The majority of cloths made 
in plain warps have 40-1 yarn, in fa t, 
this cloth is more or less standard, 
but each mill makes a different com- 
bination when a novelty warp is used. 
Some use three sizes of yarn, with 
60-1, 30-1 and 30-2 mixed, while others 
use four grades of yarn in various 
sizes. Most combinations have two- 
ply yarn to an extent, but some like 
sample are made entirely of single 
yarn. This method makes the cost of 
production somewhat less. One thing 
which is noticed is that when novelty 
warps are used, the picks per inch are 
usually less. This is possible, because 
the larger sizes of yarn used tend to 
make the cloth firmer. Sometimes, 
there is a ground weave used in mak- 
ing up patterns for this class of cloths. 
What are called slash-lines are placed 
indiscriminately over the ground, and 
this process adds to the novelty of 
the cloth produced. To-day, there is 
an enormous amount of these fabrics 
produced, and few realize the extent 
to which they are used. 

THE RETAIL PRICE 
is at present less than half what 
It formerly was. It is well to 
make note of the fact that the cost 
price given is based on to-day's basis. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



243 



Not only has the Tussah silk declined 
much in price, but cotton is also 
lower, so cloth which sold last year 
for 14 to 14% cents per yard is at a 
lower price to-day. Many buyers 
have cloth of this nature on hand, and 
they should dispose of it to retailers 
so that losses will not be sustained, for 
the new product can be sold at a re- 
duction on former prices. It is cer- 
tain that there will be a regular de- 
mand for fabrics of this general na- 
ture. Orders are for quite large 
quantities of cloth in comparison with 
some other fancy lines, but there are 
various patterns applied to the same 



livered by silk throwsters, and at 
other times an ordinary shuttle is 
used, and the filling quilled onto or- 
dinary dze cotton bobbins. In either 
case, the production should be as large 
or larger than for ordinary cotton 
shirtings. 

IN ANALYZING ANY FABRIC 

with various sizes of yarn it is a hard 
operation to obtain the number of ends 
and the sizes of the yarns employed 
in the warps. If yarn is used in 
stripes or in a regular pattern, the 
process is much simplified, but where 
the hit or miss system is used, exact 




Silk Mixture Cross-Dyed Novelty. 



construction. I* is on such a cloth as 
this that buyers are apt to make 
changes in patterns, and cause trouble 
at the mills when cloth is in the 
looms. In nearly all cases, a buyer 
will want sample pieces, and the mak- 
ing of these will eat up sometimes 
much of the apparent profit which a 
mill makes on the sale. Profits form- 
erly were large on these cloths, but 
to-day a mill obtains no larger amount 
than for other regular lines, the mar- 
gin of profit being close and the total 
made varying with the efficiency of 
operation. No difficulty is experi- 
enced in making cloths of this char- 
acter on ordinary jacquard shirting 
looms. Sometimes a shuttle is used 
which will hold small quills as de- 



results cannot be obtained. For this 
reason, manufacturers use their own 
combinations of yarn in duplicating 
other cloths. 

Fabrics are usually made on either 
400 or 600 jacquard looms, on which 
the tie-up is about 100 to 120 per inch. 
The width of pattern and ends per 
inch will vary somewhat, but the 
above will be true in most cases. In 
the cloth analyzed it was probable 
that the pattern was made on a 600- 
machine, which was tied-up 120 per 
inch, giving a pattern width of 5 
inches. 600 divided by 120 equals 
5 inches. The width of pattern in 
the finished cloth will depend on the 
amount which the cloth shrinks in 
weaving and also in finishing. In 



244 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



many instances, this shrinkage will he 
from 7 to 10 per cent, although various 
fabrics will shrink less, and some 
even more, than the above amounts. It 
is a fact that many designers have 
tried to convince buyers that stripes 
and other variations in patterns could 
not be produced on regular jacquards, 
claiming a special tie-up was neces- 
sary, but it will be found on investi- 
gation that a very large percentage of 
such patterns are produced on reg- 
ular tie-ups. It would give many of 
such men a cold shock if they knew 
that in some mills to-day there 
are many bordered patterns being pro- 
duced on regular machines, and with 
no extra dobby harnesses used either. 
Of course, there is a limit to the pat- 
tern which can be produced, but it is 
done, and to the buyer's satisfaction 
too. It requires a thorough knowledge 
of patterns and methods employed 
to produce them, also a keen insight 
for adapting cloths to conditions ex- 
isting, but fabrics have been and are 
being produced along these lines, and 
they are practical running jobs too. 
This shows how narrow some will be- 
come when their product is confined to 
a few lines of staple cloths. To have 
a knowledge of manufacturing and 
adaptability, it is necessary for a de- 
signer to be acnuainted with the de- 
signing and making of many various 
cloth constructions, for it is only by 
this method that a general and accu- 
rate knowledge can be obtained. 
Men become narrow and fall into a 
rut when new and trying problems 
are not continually met and solved. 
The 

WEIGHT OF THE CLOTH 
is found in the usual manner. If this 
weight be compared with the original 
grey weight, it will be found that the 
cloth is much lighter when finished. 
This is due to a number of reasons, 
among which are the facts that the 
silk is lighter bpoause of the 
bleaching and boiling out, the 
cotton is lighter due to handling, 
and there is a certain stretch 
in finishing which gives more yards 
of cloth than when the cloth is first 
woven. In dyed varn many men have 
been in the habit of assuming that 
the weigbt added by dyeing just about 



balanced with the weight lost in 
handling; that is, dyed yarn in a fin- 
ished fabric was about the same size 
as it was previous to dyeing, warp- 
ing, spooling, slashing and weaving, 
but this is not true in the majority 
of cases, for the dyed yarn will be 
finer than it was when made. In 
cloth analysis, there have been many 
facts assumed which do not hold true. 
It is only within a short time that 
any accurate tests have been made 
regarding manufactured and finished 
cloth, and few men have ever been 
in positions to make tests on both 
fabrics which would be accurate, be- 
cause it requires a whole series of 
experiments on identical cloths to es- 
tablish facts, and even then, results 
may vary in the different finishing 
plants. To treat all cloths in the 
same class and assume the figures are 
correct as has been done in the past 
is entirely wrong. Not only has the 
above been done, but many have also 
assumed that the weights given in any 
finished cloth should be practically 
identical with the grey or mill 
weights. A few experiments on 
identical cloths would show how falla- 
cious this theory is, especially in the 
fabrics made by the newer mills. To 
get any figures which a r e reliable, 
experiments should be made freely at 
various stages until cloth is finished. 
This is not done to any extent by 
manufacturers, and, of course, buyers 
care but little for such details, 
and it is known that many of the re- 
sults which are assumed are given 
by analysts, who compare similar fab- 
rics, but as stated above, such re- 
sults are unreliable. To have facts 
correct, a man must know much prac- 
tical manufacturing detail, and then 
by correct theory establish results 
which will prove useful. Accurate 
statements cannot be obtained unless 
theoretical and practical knowledge 
be combined. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DYEING. 
The only color to be considered In 
this samnle is the black dyed on the 
cotton warp. In the preparation of 
this fabric, it is not desired to have 
a very full shade of black, as this 
would take away from the general 
color value of the woven fabric. This 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



245 



warp is dyed in the sizing and the neous solution is obtained. The cot- 
following procedure is recommended: t° n Y arp *l d y edin i his size , by pass " 
\, xf j * a- ~t „ ing through a size box and squeeze 
Use three pounds of oxy diamine rollg and then ig carried direc tly on 

black AW, one-quarter pound diamine to the dryer, which may be either the 

fast yellow A, and 10 gallons of boil- ordinary slasher warp machine or 

ing water. through the more recent form of hot 

When the dyestuffs have been thor- air warp dryer. This method of dye- 

oughly dissolved, cool the solution to ing is very cheap and economical, and 

140 degrees Fahrenheit and then mix though it does not yield very high- 

with 10 gallons of size. This size is class colors with respect to penetra- 

prepared by using 120 gallons of wat- tion, beauty of shade, or fastness to 

er, 80 pounds of starch, 20 pounds of the various agencies, nevertheless, for 

dextrine and 20 pounds of Turkey red the fabric under consideration, this 

oil. These ingredients are boiled up process gives a color amply sufficient 

together until a thoroughly homoge- for its needs. 

PATTERN. 

40/1 American carded 2 2 = 1,106 

30/1 American carded > — — 1 = 590 

10/1 American carded J 16 1,840 16 I = 208 

1,904 total ends. 
32/38 2 end tussah tram filling; 64 picks. 

33 reed, 28%" width in reed, 26" grey width, 26" finished width; 72 X 64 grey count; 
72 X 60 finished count. 

TARNS. 

Cotton. Labor, waste. 

40/1 Am. carded, 1%" staple, 8 hank double roving, 16c. 7%c. = $ .23% 

30/1 Am. carded, l%o" staple, 6 hank double roving, 14c. 5%c. = .19% 

10/1 Am. carded, 1" staple, 2 hank double roving, lie. 2%c = .13 \i 

32/38 2 end tussah silk, 55,000 yards per pound. On quills = 1.75 

COST. 

1,106 ends, 40/1 American carded + 6% take-up = .0350 @ $ .23% = $ .0083 

590 ends, 30/1 American carded + 6% take-up = .0249 @ .19% = .0048 

208 ends, 10/1 American carded + 6% take-up = .0264 @ .13V 2 = .0036 

64 picks, 32/38 2 end tussah silk = .0330 @ 1.75 = .0578 

Weaving .0135 

Expenses .0176 

Jacquard cards .0004 

$ .1060 
Selling 0021 

Mill cost $ .1081 

Finishing, dyeing, etc .0250 

Finished cost . $ 1331 

Yards per pound, 8.38. 

Retail price, 30c. 

Mill selling price, 14 to 14 %c. when this cloth was bought. 



COTTON SOEDE 

This fabric is the one which is 
creating a large amount of interest 
at present in the market. Many ex- 
pressions have been heard regarding 
the cloth and the finish applied. Most 
of the cloth seen up to the present 
time has been imported, and is sell- 
ing for about $1.50 per yard. There 
are many sellers in the market, who, 
from appearances, seem to try to 
create the impression that no cloth of 



any value can be made or finished in 
America satisfactorily. If there is 
anything which they can say against 
cloth of domestic production, it is 
stated as strongly as possible. This 
has been done on the cloth in ques- 
tion, and has also been done on the 
new toweling fabrics, when the facts 
are that the fabrics can be made sat- 
isfactorily, and much cheaper here 
than they can be imported. From in- 
stances which come to light some- 
times, it is wondered whether some of 
the domestic product is not used as 



246 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



imported by these same sellers. 

This cloth is a domestic article. It 
is not to be wondered at that few 
mills care to make the cloth, for it is 
exceptional in a number of ways. 
First, the yarns are much finer than 
many mills care to make, as they 
are about 90-2. Second, the count is 
high, both in warp and filling, name- 
ly 132 by 188. Third, the weave is 
one seldom seen on cotton cloth, as 
it is a sort of double cloth, the face 
and back weave being a four- 
harness broken twill. There are no 
extra threads used in making the 
weave, but the effect is similar to a 
double cloth, although it is not one 
strictly speaking. 

The price quoted for this cloth is 
32 cents per yard. Under the circum- 
stances, this price seems to reflect 

VERY POOR MERCHANDISING, 
for a larger amount should be ob- 
tained for a number of reasons. One 
is that this fabric is distinctly a nov- 
elty of the highest order, another is 
that the profit secured is not large, as 
will be explained later, while most im- 
portant is the fact that this cloth will 
probably be sold as imported and is 
now retailing at about $1.50 per yard. 
There will be little competition on 
this fabric as made, and it is thought 
a higher price should be obtained than 
has been asked. Cheap imitations of 
this cloth cannot be produced for the 
fine yarns used, and the high count, 
together with the finish, do net admit 
large possibilities in this direction. 
From our analysis, it will be seen that 
the cost of production is about 28 
cents per yard, while the selling price 
is 32 cents per yard, or a profit of 
about four cents per yard. This cloth 
has 188 picks per inch, and the pro- 
duction is very low, and under the 
conditions, the profit would not be 
over $2.50 per loom per week, or a 
profit of about $125 ner loom per year. 
This might give a profit of somewhat 
over 10 per cent on capital invested, 
but this is not enniig-h for thfi rhiri^- 
ter of fabric. There is more ability 
reouired to make this cloth than the 
toweling fabric beine: sold, and it Is 
known that cloth of this nature has 
been sold recently at less than 15 
cents per yard, and a profit of over 



$10 per loom per week obtained, or a 
rate of profit of over $500 per loom 
per year. The prices of the cotton 
suede and toweling cloths are identi- 
cal at retail, and without question, the 
cost of producing the suede is twice 
that of the toweling, so we are free 
to admit a mistake was made when 
no more was charged than 32 cents 
fcr the quality o suede offered; in 
fact, it is doubted whether the ma- 
jority of fine mills which could make 
this cloth could do it as low as we 
have figured, that is, and produce a 
good result, and a low percentage of 
seconds. 

There is no need of showing a draw- 
ing-in draft, as the warp would prob- 
ably be drawn in straight on eight 
harnesses, although the weave ac- 
tually takes but four. The selvages 
would be made on two extra har- 
nesses. We give the weave so that 

The Weave. 

■DMBBnaa 
caaoonma 
naaanaaa 
dock anna 
aanaaana 
DBDnnann 
aaanaaaa 

BODDaDDD 

the arrangement can be noted. The 
second, fourth, sixth and eighth picks 
represent the filling which shows on 
the back of the cloth, while the re- 
maining picks show on the face. We 
have no doubt that claims made that 
the unsatisfactory finish produced is 
due to poor manufacture or cloth con- 
struction is true in some instances, for 
the cloth weave and yarns have much 
to do with good finished results. 

Cloths of this character are prac- 
tically always 

WOVEN IN THE GREY 

state and then bleached and dyed, for 
bleached yarns are seldom used, and 
if they are the cost of manufacture is 
too high to be practical. 

As yet, we have seen none of this 
kind of cloth which has been woven 
on a jacnuard loom with a fancy pat- 
tern. There is a possibility of this 
development being a good thing, for 
the ground cloth could be made like 
sample, and because of thp hieh eount 
used, beautiful patterns could be made 
in a subdued effect. This would ap- 
peal to many consumer*. Regarding 



▲ COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



24? 



the cloth as sold at present, we are 
free to say that it is one of the best 
appearing, and has more quality than 
very many of the various fabrics of- 
fered in recent years. Of course, 
whether a large sale will result or 
not is largely a matter of conjecture, 
but one thing is certain, and this 
is that the price will never be as 
low as on ordinary lines, and it is 
doubted greatly whether it will sell 
later at less than $1 per yard at re- 
tail, even of domestic make. There 
never will be a large supply, no mat- 
ter how large the demand gets, for to 
have the result satisfactory quality 
must be put into the cloth, and there 
are comparatively few mills which 
can produce this quality. Possibly 
one dozen mills would complete the 
list which could make this cloth in 
quantity to sell at 32 cents per yard 
and realize a profit. Because of slow 
production, the cloth will tie up a 
loom for quite a time. It may be that 
this seller was willing to quote this 
low price because of the lack of or- 
ders for fine cloth, and desired to get 
work to keep looms in operation, 
which this cloth would do to anyone's 
satisfaction, but the fact remains that 
probably a price could have been ob- 
tained which would approach 40 cents 
per yard just as easily as 32 cents 
could. 

Regarding the imported prices and 
those of domestic make it is a known 
fact that en certain fine cloths, quota- 
tions have been asked for on cloth 
made in this country of foreign mills, 
and the prices quoted in many in- 
stances are but from 3 to 10 per cent 
lower than that at which mills have 
sold the cloth here, and carrying 
charges will range about 4 or 5 per 
cent, so it can readily be seen what 
economies the domestic manufac- 
turer adopts. 

From observation, it seems as if 
merchandising was the large item 
which heeded to be watched care- 
fully by many mills selling fine and 
fancy cloth. It is known that many 
of the newer fine and fancy mills are 
operated about as closely at it pos- 



sible, so far as actual manufacturing 
is concerned. The interchange of 
ideas and prices among the cloth 
brokers and the system of selling in 
many cases operate against the mill 
obtaining the legitimate recompense 
for initiative and ability. Many 
times buyers would have willingly 
paid higher prices excepting for 
the fact that they were posted 
regarding prices by intermediates. 
This only added to the buyer's profits 
what should have gone to the maker, 
for prices to the retailer or jobber 
are never changed by such a lower- 
ing of prices. We have seen in- 
stances where makers have been de- 
prived of a fair profit when there 
should have been a fair profit for all 
concerned. Manufacturing has been 
reduced to a very scientific process, 
and costs of making are known pretty 
accurately, yet while manufacturing 
has been getting on a closer basis, 
merchandising has been getting more 
expensive. A little of the accuracy 
which is employed by mills injected 
into some of the methods of selling 
would work wonders in the trade. 
There is no question but that selling 
has run into a very bad rut, and it 
will require time and almost a revolu- 
tion to put it on a better or different 
basis. We believe the men who have 
shown such ability in the economies 
of manufacture are fully capable of 
showing new ideas in selling, and 
that to obtain a more regular profit 
enri to be dictated to less by buyers, 
mills must eventually have more pow- 
er than they at present have. Con- 
solidation of interests must be effected 
in some manner to put manufacturing 
on more stable basis. The method 
of obtaining the weights and yards 
per pound is as follows: 

3,960 ends -4- (90/2 X 840) = .1048. warp 

weight without take-up in weaving. 
AYe-iving take-up 12%. 
.1048 -4- .88 = .1191, total warp weight in 1 

vard of cloth. 
188 picks X 33" loom width X 36" 

= 6.204 

36" 

yards of filling per yard. 
6,2'04 -i- (90/2 X 840) «= .1641, total fllline 

weight in 1 yard of cloth. 
.1191 + .1641 — .2832, total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -+- .2*32 ~> 8. S3 yards p«r pound. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



PATTERN. 

I 2 

90/2 Sea Island 24 3,864 24 — 3,960 total ends. 

90/2 Sea Island filling; 188 picks. 

60 reed, 33" width in reed, 31" grey width, 30" finished width; 132 X 188 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton, waste. Twisting. 

90/2 Sea Island; 1%" staple; 18 hank double roving, 28c. 32c. 7c. = 67c. 

90/2 Sea Island filling. Same as warp. = 67c. 

COST. 

3,960 ends, 90/2 Sea Island + 12% take-up = .1191 @ 67c. = $ .0798 

188 picks, 90/2 Sea Island = .1641 @ 67c. = .1104 

Weaving .0452 

Expenses .0394 

$ .2748 
Selling .0055 

Grey cost $ .2803 

Dyeing, finishing, etc .0200 

Finished cost $ .3003 

Yards per pound, 3.53. 

Mill price, 32c. per yard. 

Retail price for similar fabrics, $1.50 per yard (imported). 



RUSSIAN CORD VOILE 

We have in the past analyzed va- 
rious patterns on voile cloths. Inas- 
much as these fabrics will be used 
more largely than any other the com- 
ing summer, it may be well to add 
another novel combination to the 
ones already given. This cloth is 
made with a voile ground which is 
exceptional for the reason that the 
yarns used are of fine character, 
namely, 120s-2, and few mills in 
America could make them in any 
quantity. Cloths of this character are 
used for various purposes, and all 
have a rather low count. The ma- 
jority use yarn up to 60s-2 and a 
count of about 50 square, although 
some mills make finer yarn with a 
somewhat closer count. Many of the 
patterns being offered at present have 
silk for decorative purposes, and this 
gives an added attractiveness for a 
comparatively small added expense. 
In some instances, artificial silk is be- 
ing used for this purpose instead of 
the real article, and results are very 
satisfactory, although for other pur- 
poses it does not have such a large 
success. In 

THE CONSTRUCTION 
of a voile cloth much ability is re- 
quired to get the best appearance. It 
is necessary to have the cloth open 
and still not slip badly. There is one 



thing which helps largely in producing 
a good voile, and this is good yarn. 
If yarn is poor, no weaving or finish- 
ing will give the result wanted. The 
yarn is not ordinary two-ply, but it is 
two-ply with a much harder twist than 
is usually given. This makes a 
smooth, round thread and gives a clear 
looking cloth. Some makers use gass- 
ed yarn, which ensures an added 
smoothness to the result. The yarn 
made determines to an extent the 
count necessary to secure satisfactory 
woven cloth. The standard of twist 
given the two-ply yarn will vary from 
about 6 to 8. In twisting, the hard 
yarn is likely to cut the travelers and 
cause trouble. Some mills have twist- 
ed their ply yarns on regular spinning 
frames and secured better results, for 
the rings are smaller, and not only 
this, but the ply yarn used for filling is 
ready for the loom when twisted, with 
no additional processes, which are nec- 
essary if twisted on a regular twister. 

ENAMELED BOBBINS 
can be used, the yarn being steamed 
and a saving made in time and ex- 
pense. 

These fabrics, contrary to the be- 
lief of many, are not so expensive to 
make as would appear, for the count 
is usually low, the cloth weight light 
and the production comparatively 
large per loom. For this last reason, 
a smaller profit per yard will yield a 
better return than on many other lines 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



249 



of iancy fabrics. Most of the various 
lines of voile cloths are made from 
grey yarns, and the fabrics are finished 
when woven. There are a few voiles 
made of bleached and dyed yarns, but 
they have been constructed this way 
to produce certain results. If two 
fabrics could be made so that the re- 
sults would be the same when finish- 
ed it would be found that the use 
of grey yarns would produce the low- 
est cost of manufacturing. There is 
no doubt but that this method of mak- 



have thought there was little compe- 
tition in the making of fancy fabrics, 
but they were never more mistaken, 
for competition is sharper on 
some of these cloths than on some 
of tbe coarser better-known lines. 

Many of the fabrics being sold have 
silk stripes of varying widths in their 
make-up, and they are woven on jac- 
quard looms. Few. of the patterns are 
made on dobby looms, for it requires 
quite a few harnesses to produce any 
satisfactory figure on a closely woven 




Russian Cord Voile. 



ing cloth is driving orders from many 
of the older mills. 

The cloths we are considering could 
be made in 

THREE METHODS: 

First, by using bleached and dyed 
yarns. Second, by using grey cotton 
yarns and fast colored silk to stand 
the bleaching process. Third, by using 
grey cotton yarns and raw silk and 
then bleaching and cross -dyeing the 
result. Possibly, the last mentioned 
method is the more common one on 
this identical cloth, and it would prob- 
ably give the cheapest cost price. In 
these days of competition, the one 
who produces a certain effect for the 
lowest price gets the business. Many 



silk stripe. This brings us to the item 
of interest in the cloth we are con- 
sidering. This fabric is made on an 
ordinary dobby loom, and requires few 
harnesses to weave. It is 

A COMBINATION 
of the weave which was popular fol 
men's shirtings last season and which 
is being used extensively at present 
with the voile ground. This is what is 
called a Russian cord. It consists of 
a cord of a more or less heavy nature 
and a leno end which crosses back 
and forth every pick, effectually cov- 
ering the cord underneath. Some- 
times this crossing end is of grey 
yarn, while other times it is of silk 
similar to sample, and in still other in- 



250 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSAPT 





- . . ~t"t (h 


^"THffffJ 




t 


5 u 




. "% ir> 'vwv i 


s L-^ M M 






i W W H I 






lUI H HBflfiJ 






iH_WffPfrvn 




t 


MKBrI BHPB 






5 P& fSflMHJ 




' vgf 


| iWlHIHHi 






























^^^^pcjw 6o 






fti tv, ,0 © v v Q 






*.*-va. c^ 






•^ 










■C 






sS 3 


< ( '** etf 




5 


It <o' ^ 




Tg-— -J 


«fc_j . , >f *>,$ 




^ 3 


.' , «> ^ ■ 




-^ — 


p ■» ■<. : 




p 


* »■> > 




N 


+ } * s 






( ^ 5- ,, 




A^^n" " 


* ^ 




— "I^3-^T" 


'*V,TL. 




^ 


«i „>. 




-^i 


r ^ 




x > 


< ) ^ ^ 




^« "i 


? ) ^ "** 




-L 


s ( ^ -> 




>— - 


** ' * s - 




^2,-L 


^ -^ 




"^i^if" 


--?-i2<-^ 




S-flL:' ° «>_ _ 


^ J^ 






«3 ...^ 






r - :> , 




i 


* / w, ^ m 




V 


s>) * >v 












j vi - '** <JK 




s5r > 


< ^ J? ,„ 




c n3 ( 








s ( *> .3 



▲ COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



251 



stances, It is of fast color cotton yarn 
to stand bleaching like the large num- 
ber of men's snirtings produced. 

Some time ago there were certain 
weavers who believed that no leno 
similar to a Russian cord could be 
produced by the use of top doups. 
They thought that before a crossing 
could be satisfactorily made with a 
top doup one pick would have to in ■ 
tervene. For this reason, many of 
these fabrics are woven on bottom 
doups. As is well known, top doups 
are more satisfactory if they can be 
run, and it is brought to the atten- 
tion of those who still .use bottom 
doups that many manufacturers are 
to-day using top doups .for cloths of 
this character. We have given 
THE CHAIN AND DRAFT 
for the use of bottom doups, for it is 
probable that the majority still use 
them, and it makes things somewhat 
clearer by this method. The combina- 
tion as produced is very pleasing, and 
it is such ideas as these which some- 
times bring large profits to the origi 
nators. There are few new ideas in 
ground cloth construction, but there 



are unlimited possibilities in combi- 
nations, for new ideas in designs and 
dyeing and finishing admit of new 
results. This is illustrated clearly by 
the large use made of ideas when 
cloth began to be mercerized in the 
piece, also when yarns began to be 
dyed colors which would stand the 
bleaching process. It is not believed 
that either of these ideas have yet 
been developed as fully as possible. 
The use of fast colors on silk yarn 
has hardly been brought before the 
public, so there may be pos- 
sibilities in this direction. The mak- 
ing of cotton suede opens a field which 
has been tested but little in cloth 
making. Because of the low number 
of picks in a voile cloth, the Russian 
cord effect is not as good as on many 
shirting fabrics which have a higher 
count in the filling, but 

THE RESULT 
is good enough to be noted in this con- 
nection. 

Good yarn for the doups is of hard- 
twist worsted, and it may be well 
to bring out the fact that care in 
weaving such fabrics will save quite a 



PATTERN. 



120/2 Sea Island combed, bard twist. 
60/2 Am. combed 



60/2 Spun silk. 



40 




26 


5 

1 


4 

1 


17 


S 




40 



= 1,636 ground 
= 180 cord 

= 144 leno. 



36X 



1,960 total ends. 



120/2 Sea Island combed, hard twist filling. 58 picks. 
58 reed, 2S%" width in reed, 27" grey width, 26%" finished width, 72 X 58 grey count 
over all, 74 X 56 finished count over all, 63 X 56 finished count ground cloth. 



Cotton. 
120/2 Sea Island hard twist; 1%," sta. ; 24 hank dou. rov., 30c. 

60/2 Am. combed; 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 24c. 

60/2 Spun silk; 50.400 yds. per lb. Ready for loom 
120/2 Sea Island hard twist filling. Same as warp 

COST. 

1,636 ends, 120/2 Sea Island hard twist + 8% take-up = . 

180 ends, 60/2 Am. combed -j- 2% take-up = . 

144 ends, 60/2 spun silk -j- 70% take-up = . 

58 picks, 120/2 Sea Island hard twist = 

Weaving 

Expense* 



Ijabor, 
waste, 

etc. 

58c. 

16y 2 c. 



Twist- 
ing. 

18c. = $1.06 

4c. = .44 V4 

= 3.50 

= 1.06 



.0353 
.0073 
.0097 
.0331 



$1.06 
.44% 
3.50 
1.06 



Selling 



Grey coit 
Finishing, etc. 



Finished cost 
Yards per lb., 11.71. 
Retail price, 46c. per yard. 



= $ .0374 
= .0033 
= .0339 
= .0351 
.0109 
.0143 

$ .1349 
.0027 

$ .1376 
.0250 

. $ .1626 



25B 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



little in the cost of production. Unless 
there are a large number of leno ends 
a weaver can operate nearly the same 
number of looms as on ordinary work. 
The loom speed will be somewhat 
slower, due to the fact that the doup 
yarn takes some time to straighten 
out. Through wrong designing or 
planning we have seen patterns which 
might have been profit producers be- 
come bad running jobs and continual 
trouble makers. It is necessary to 
bind the leno on the correct picks in 
making fabrics of this nature. We 
have seen cloths woven in large quan- 
tities which when finished showed but 
a straight line and no crossing end. 
It is needless to say that such a weave 
should never be used, as it will re- 
sult in cancellation of orders and 

LOSS OP PROFITS. 

Some manufacturers make their 
voile yarns to size a specified amount 
while others use certain size single 
yarns, and let the two-ply result be 
what it may. Because of the hard 
twisting used the yarn will in most 
cases be heavier than the sample yarn 
would indicate, that is, 50s-2 will ac- 
tually size about 48s-2. The take up 
on the leno or crossing end is about 
70 per cent on the cloth in question, 
that is, 3 1-3 inches will weave 1 inch 
of cloth. 

The weights and yards per pound 
are obtained as follows: 



1,636 ends -f- (120/2 X 840) = .0325, warp 
weight without take-up in weaving. 

.0325 h- .92 = .0353, warp weight with take- 
up. 

ISO ends -s- (60/2 X 340) = .0071. warp 
weight without take-up in weaving. 

.0071 -r- .9S = .0073, warp weight with 
take-up. 

144 ends h- (50,400 = 60/2 spun silk) = 
.0029 silk weight without take-up. 

.0029 -=- .3 = .0097, total silk weight. 

58 picks X 28%" X 36" 

= 1,667.5 yards of 

36" 
filling per yard of cloth. 

1,667.5 -s- (120/2 X 840) = .0331, weight of 
tilling yarn. 

.0353 + .0073 + .0097 + .0331 = .0S54, 
total weight per yard. 

1.0000 -h .0854 = 11.71 yards per lb. 



SILK MIXTURE EPONGE 

The cloth considered here is inter- 
esting in that it is a development of 
eponge, which many have purchased 



and of which many qualities have 
been produced at as many different 
prices. Possibly, eponge cloth for a 
novelty fabric has allowed of more 
and greater variations than any other 
recently produced. It is made in nov- 
elty yarn warp and filling, in novelty 
warp and plain filling, in plain warp 
and novelty filling, in silk and cotton 
mixtures similar to the sample 
we are now considering, in dyed 
yarn fabrics, mercerized yarn fabrics 
and various combinations of colors in 
various kinds of yarns. Possibly, 
mills have had about all the orders 
they will have for the present on 
these cloths, but retailers are becom- 
ing interested, and a fair distribution 
is likely for such a high-class novelty. 
It is true that of late the interest is 
being largely seen on similar ideas of 
this nature worked up into trim- 
mings and the like, and the demand 
should be extensive in this direction, 
for these effects are more desirable 
for trimmings than they are for whole 
dresses. Many of the cloths are still 
imported, although cloths of 

AMERICAN PRODUCT 

have largely replaced them, at least 
in the cheaper grades. 

Misstatements by men supposed to 
be familiar with cloth making have 
been made about these fabrics, possi- 
bly to a larger extent than on many 
novelty cloths. Because they never 
have had any experience in making 
novelty yarns, they consider that they 
are impossible to produce. For this 
reason, it is likely that more people 
have paid high prices for these cloths 
than for the majority of fancy fabrics. 
One thing is very evident, and this is 
that no cloth of a radical nature cau 
be sold in comparatively large 
amounts until consumers are interest- 
ed in the idea, or a fashion is worked 
up for the cloth. Contrary to the gen- 
eral opinion, any large sale of a dif- 
ferent cloth is a growth and should 
be treated as such by buyers. 

NOT A NEW IDEA. 

The idea used in these cloths is not 
new. for it has been used at various 
times, but no demand was created 
and therefore no sale made. We have 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



253 



seen good and practical ideas thrown 
aside by buyers simply because they 
did not care to attempt to develop 
their use. The yarns used in these 
cloths are called, in mill language, 
under the general heading of cork- 
screw yarns. To produce the effects, 
two twisting operations are neces- 
sary, one in the opposite direction to 
the other. In the yarn in this cloth, 
instead of all single yarns being used, 
we have two sizes of two-ply. This 
makes a better effect, although it in- 
creases the cost of the yarn some-, 
what. If the yarn be made on the 
twister, it is necessary to have two 
sets of rolls, for the yarns are not 
delivered at the same rate of speed, 
as can be seen from the yarn analy- 
sis. If 

NOVELTY TWISTERS 

are not available, it is possible to 
make the same effects on an ordinary 
spinning frame, using two sets of 
rolls and a wire across the front of 
the frame to hold up the ends off 
the other rolls and guide them into 
the pig-tails on the frame. This 
policy is sometimes advantageous, for 
yarn in the last twisting process can 
be wound directly onto quills, there- 
by saving some operations which are 
necessary when yarn is twisted on a 
regular twister. Yarns of this charac- 
ter usually are coarse in size when 
completed, possibly few being over 
7V 2 and many less than 5, although at 
various times samples have been seen 
with yarn which sized when finished 
as fine as 20. Because of the coarse 
size of the yarn, the cloth count is 
necessarily low in the direction which 
the novelty yarn was used. 

To find the resulting yarn size when 
completed, it is only necessary to pull 
threads from the cloth and size in 
the ordinary manner, this process 
giving 5.45 as the yarn size; but to 
obtain the various yarns which enter 
the construction is another thing. 
The first step is to unravel some of 
the ends composing the novelty, be- 
ini? careful to measure their lengtns. 
In this manner it will be found that 
the 40s-l yarn takes up 9y 2 per cent, 
while the 30s-2 takes up 30 per cent. 
When the yarns are unraveled, it is 



an easy matter to obtain the various 
sizes. Care should also be observed 
in the amount of twist per inch in 
each operation of twisting, for this 
has much to do with the final effect. 
When the above has been completed, 
the size which the yarn should be m 
obtained. 

^/l 2 ends Z W/l 9*« shrink. ZlVl/l 

|o/2 1 end = 16/1 30% shrink. = 10.5/1 

30/1 -5- 30/1 = 1.00 

30/1 -H 18.1/1 = 1-65 

30/1 -*■ 10.6/1 = 2.85 

6.50 



30/1 -+- 5.50 = 5.45 figured size. 

PRICES DO NOT CORRESPOND. 
To show that prices on various 
quantities of fabiics do not corre- 
spond when retailed, we can state that 
an all- cotton fabric was being re- 
tailed at a higher price than the silk 
one analyzed in the same store. 
Some may think that the construction 
warranted the difference, but we can 
state that there was practically the 
same number of picks of novelty 
yarn of the same size as filling in 
each cloth, so little difference could 
be found here. The warps bear no 
comparison, for the cotton warp was 
plain yarn of a count of about 29 
threads per inch of 30s-l yarn, while 
the silk warp counts over all nearly 
150 per inch. An absolute difference 
in cost of warp material of over 10 
cents per yard is noted, making the 
cost of the grey cotton cloth less than 
12 cents per yard. Another item of 
expense which the white cotton cloth 
did not bear was the extra cost of 
dyeing and finishing a novelty silk 
and cotton fabric. Altogether, the net 
cost finished of the silk and cotton 
fabric was nearly, if not quite, twice 
the cost of the all-cotton one, and the 
retail price of the all-cotton fabric 
is higher than the mixture cloth. This 
shows how the retailer, many times, 
purchases fabrics which show no 
relation of manufacturing costs to 
selling prices. 

There is as much demand for one 
of these fabrics as there is for the 
other, and no excuse can be offered 
that one is sold at a lower price be- 
cause of small demand. If the novelty 
mixture sells for 96 cents per yard, 



254 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



the all-cotton fabric should not bring times it would be possible for a 
over 50 cents per yard. These cloths weaver to operate more looms, there- 
were purchased through the same by reducing the producing costs, ex- 
channels, and it is very evident that cepting for the fact that the filling 
some one made runs out very fast. If more than 
•EXCESSIVE PROFITS one loom was operated, it is likely 
on the all -cotton cloth. It is true that that ,/^ e , V*™***** °f Production 
cloths of all cotton, and very similar wou * d De lo ^ and the ultimate result 

to the one referred to. have been sold i° *f ter J? an " bUt ° ne l0 ° m PeF 

f~„ i™„ +*,„„ 19 .„«.«! „„,. a ~„a weaver were run. 

for less than 13 cents per yard, and T „ rv ,„ 1 „-„„ „i„+v, mU i, „m „,„«,>„ 

even at this price, they have given \, mak ™S C °n Wlt Jl S ^ i^S.' 

large returns for the mill miking f. mi » u * u * lly t W1 " " s , e tbe . sl k which 

them. This is due to the fact that they find best sulted t0 their looms or 

a loom will produce a large number METHOD OF WEAVING. 

of yards per day, due to the small Italian silk is probably used in large 

number of picks. Because of the fact quantities, and the sizes are almost al- 

that the filling is so heavy, a weaver ways heavier than 20s-22, so as to ob- 

can operate but one loom in many tain a sufficient amount of strength. 

cases. As a large part of the weaver's We have used 190,000 yards as the 

work is the changing of filling, the size of the yarn, although this is not 

cloth is called a filling job. Many the theoretical yardage. A certain 

PATTERN. 
4 4 

22/24 Italian silk warp — 4.892 — = 6,084 total ends. 

24 24 

5.45 cotton novelty filling, 20 picks. 

65 reed, 38" width in reed, 36" grey width, 35" finished width, 141 X 20 grey count: 
145 X 20 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, Twist- 
'"■"■tton. waste, etc. ing. 
40/1 Am. combed, 1%" sta. ; S hank dou. rov., 17%c. 10c. = % .27% 

30/2 Am. combed, 1%" sta.; 6 hank dou. rov., 17 %c. 8%c. 2c. = .28 

60/2 Am. combed, l%"sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 24c. 16%c. 4c. = .44% 

22/24 Italian silk, 190,000 yards per lb. On beams, = 4.45 

NOVELTY YARN. 
40/1 2 ends ground 9%% take-up in finished yarn 7 , t twl _ tl __ rpeu i„- 
30/2 1 end 30% take-up in finished yarn J lst ™«tine regular. 

y/rVfrom 1st operation} 2nd twistin S reverse - 

Note. — 60/2 in 2nd operation is the yarn on which all the weaving strain comes. The first 
twisted yarn is really retwisted around the 60/2. 

NOVELTY YARN COST. 

40/1 2 ends @ 27 %c. = 8.28c for part to make 1 lb. of novelty. 

30/2 1 end @ 28c. = 14.53c for part to make 1 lb. of novelty. 

60/2 1 end @ 44%c. = S.52c for part to make 1 lb. of novelty. 

31.33c. yarn cost. 
3.00c. lst twisting operation. 
2.00c. 2nd twisting operation. 

36.33c. novelty yarn cost at loom. 

CLOTH COST. 

5,084 ends 22/24 Italian silk + 8% take-up = .0291 @ $4.45 = $ .1295 

20 picks 5.45 novelty cotton = .1660 @ 36.33c. = .0603 

Weaving .0242 

Expenses .0053 

$ .2193 
Selling .0044 

Grey cost $ .2237 

Dyeing, finishing, etc .0300 

Finished cost $ .2637 

Yards per pound, 6.02 (grey). 

Plain weave. 

Retail price, 96c. per yard. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



255 



amount of leeway is usually allowed 
by cotton mills using silk for any 
variation which may be noted in the 
actual size. Naturally the maker errs 
on his own side and possibly it should 
be considered justifiable, inasmuch as 
silk sizes purchased from different 
sellers vary widely. 

Regarding the use of silk in cotton 
mills, it can be said that it has 
largely increased in the past few 
years. Possibly the use may be ap- 
plied to new cloths as they are de- 
manded by fashion, but there is no 
question but that its use has come 
to stay in this direction. A fancy 
goods mill which has not or cannot 
use it is rather badly handicapped 
in the production of high-class novel- 
ties. It is true that many times the 
addition of a comparatively small 
amount of silk will add very much 
more to the value of the cloth than 
the extra charge would indicate. In 
other cases, a cloth is changed from 
a rather ordinary fabric to a beauti- 
ful production. Numerous examples 
might be cited where the use of silk 
was a distinct advance in the making 
of cloths, and not only this, but many 
times it has added to the profits of 
all concerned in the selling, from the 
manufacturer to the retailer. When 
the actual size of the filling is ob- 
tained, the 

YARDS PER POUND 
are figured as follows. It must not 
be assumed that the weight of the 
cloth is the same when finished as 
when delivered by the mill, for silk 
will lose much weight when bleached 
and boiled out, and cotton is also 
lighter, due to processing. 

6,084 ends silk -*- 190,000 yards == .0267, silk 

weight per yard without take-up. 
8% take-up in weaving. 

.0267 -*- .92 =- .0291, silk weight per yard. 
38" width in reed X 20 pks. per In. X 36" 

36" 

760 yards filling per yard of cloth. 
760 -*- (5.45 X 840) = .1660, filling weight 

per yard. 
.0291 + .1660 = .1951, total weight per yard. 
1.0000.-*- .1951 = 5.02 yards per pound. 

The finished yards per pound 
would be, probably, about 5.35 to 5.40, 
although this would depend much on 
the amount the cloth was boiled out 
in the finishing process. 



SILK MIXTURE FAST COLOR 
SHIRTING 

The fabric analyzed is one of the 
newer productions in shirting mate- 
rials. As is well known, there is a 
wide distribution for various fabrics 
in these lines, and many and varied 
constructions are made and sold. 
While it has been noted but little, it 
is a fact that the materials used have 
been getting finer and finer, and much 
more silk is being used than ever be- 
fore. Of course, the price of shirts 
has advanced, but this does not of 
necessity mean that the price of ma- 
terial has gone up in proportion. In 
many cases, it is known for a fact that 
cloth in some of the high-priced shirts 
has been bought at a lower price than 
cloth which has been used in some of 
the lower-priced articles. 

This shows that some of the shirt 
makers, because of their progressive- 
ness, have looked after their own con- 
verting on these cloths and have sav- 
ed the large profits which may be 
made in this manner. Few of the old- 
style madras shirts had material 
which cost less than 15 cents per yard 
in their construction, and many had 
material which cost more than the 
above. It is known that much of the 
material which shirt makers have con- 
verted has been bought at 10 cents 
per yard or less. Much of the mate- 
rial which is used in $3.50 to $5 shirts 
costs less than 25 cents per yard. 
This is for 

A NOVELTY CONSTRUCTION 
containing spun silk filling and with 
enough picks per inch to produce a 
firm and satisfactory cloth, with silk 
warp stripes and figured patterns. 
Very few cloths ever used cost a 
maker over 75 cents per shirt, and 
the large majority of fabrics cost less 
than 50 cents per shirt. 

One other advantage which is not- 
ed in many of the newer materials is 
that the cloths are made of all combed 
yarns. This should produce a more 
even and better looking cloth, and it 
usually does. Few of the old-style 
shirtings were or are made of any- 



256 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



thing but carded yarns. Another thing 
which is noted is that the whites are 
not so clean in the older shirtings. 
This results from the fact that the 
yarns used in their construction are 
handled much after bleaching. Of 
course, the cloth woven is washed be- 
fore shipping out, but this process 
many times cannot eradicate the shade 
obtained when processing. The above 
is shown very clearly by comparing 
the whites in many lines of the best 
ginghams with the whites in some of 
the checked patterns produced with 
yarn to stand bleaching, and which 
are bleached when the cloth is woven. 



and combed yarns and also to 
many novelty fabrics composed of 
silk and cotton, both for ladies' and 
men's wear. The sample considered 
is one of these novelty cloths. It has 
40s-l yarn for warp in both the white 
and color. Probably, these were run 
in the weave room on separate beams, 
although they could just as well have 
been placed on a single beam if fa- 
cilities for doing this were obtainable. 
The fulling is of Tussah silk. Tue 
yards per pound are assumed at 55,000, 
yet this is not the theoretical yard- 
age, but is one which protects the 
manufacturer from variations in the 




Silk Mixture Fast Color Shirting. 



Many of the older shirting mills use 
colors which are fast to light and 
washing, although there are still many 
of these fabrics which do not have 
satisfactory colors, but it is manifest 
that a color which has been through a 
bleaching process is better than one 
which can stand only light and wash- 
ing. 

Possibly, one of the first and largest 
uses made of these colors has been in 
mills which do not dye their own yarn, 
and which are usually known as grey 
cloth mills. They have been applied 
to shirting fabrics, in both carded 



silk size. The cloth construction is 
not an especially good one, as it counts 
but 74 by 64, and would not make a 
highly serviceable shirting for men. 
What the difference is between the 
cost and retail price is easily seen. 
These cloths sold last year in quite 
large quantities for about 14 cents 
per yard, and it is very evident that 
a large percentage has been taken in 
the distribution. Of course, the price 
of the silk, which constitutes the larg- 
est single item in the cloth cost, is 
now lower than last year, but the 
difference in price accounts for a very 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



257 



small portion of the extra cost. The 
retail price is 48 cents per yard, and 
probably was purchased by the retail- 
er for 32% cents per yard. The differ- 
ence between 14 cents, the purchase 
price, and 32% cents, the selling price, 
represents 

THE GROSS PROFIT 
to the converter after the finishing 
charges are deducted, and these 
should not be large, for the cloth has 
only to be bleached and finished. The 
fabric was probably sold by a con- 
verting jobber, for they handle these 
lines in large amounts. 

The figure on the cloth is made on 
an ordinary dobby loom, and it takes 
15 harnesses to produce it satisfac- 
torily. In our drawing-in draft the 
numbers at the bottom represent the 
number of ends placed in each dent 
of the reed. The numbers in the 
draft represent the harnesses upon 
which draft is drawn, while the num- 
bers to the right are the heddles re- 
quired on each harness. These are 
for the harness builder, so that satis- 
factory harnesses with the correct 
number of heddles are available for 
the drawing-in operation. The head 
chain represents the operation of the 
various harnesses to produce the pat- 



tern. A somewhat more even repeat 
might have been produced if two plain 
picks were inserted in the chain, or 
if two were taken out. This 
would have obviated one defect in the 
pattern. It will be noted that in the 
pattern as woven there is a harness 
skip over the large spot. 

Care should be taken by the loom- 
fixer to see that such occurrences are 
rare, although it is hard to see them 
in grey cloth. This defect can be de- 
tected much easier, however, with 
Tussah, which is yellow, than with 
many other silks, such as 14-16 two- 
thread Canton which is used largely 
in these varieties of fabrics. 

In laying out 

THE PATTERN 
another criticism might be made, and 
that is that the pattern would have 
looked better if it had been balanced. 
It is noted that the cloth has a heavy 
colored stripe on one edge, while the 
light stripe is on the other edge. We 
have laid out the cloth as it is woven, 
although in the large majority of 
cases, it is better to exactly balance 
the repeats next to each selvage. Of 
course, this is sometimes impossible 
when making a number of different 
patterns with the same number of col- 



PATTERN. 



40/1 Am. combed, white.. 
40/1 Am, combed, colored. 



?, 








1 






| 


1 2 







3 8 




48 


2 




10 34 


I — 


12 






14 


1 2 




2 


1 


12 



4 X 



18 X 
32/38 2 end tussah filling. 64 picks. 

34 reed, 34%" width in reed, 32" grey width, 32" finished width. 
74 X 63 finished count. 

YARNS. 



1,954 
432 
2,386 total ends. 



74 X 84 grey count. 



Cotton. 

17%c. 

17%c. 



40/1 Am. combed, grey, 1%" sta. ; 8 hank dou. rov., 
40/1 Am. combed, colored, 1%" sta.; 8 hank dou. rov., 
32/38 2 end tussah tram, 55,000 yds. per lb., on quills, 

COST. 
1.954 ends 40/1 Am. combed, grey + 5% take-up 



Labor & 

waste. 

10c. 

10c. 



Dyeing. 
16c. 



.0612 @ 27%c 

432 ends 4~0/l Am. combed, colored + 5% take-up = -0136 @ 43%c. 

64 picks 32/38 2 end tussah tram = .0404 @ $1.80 

Weaving 

Expenses 



Selling 



Mill cost 
Finishing . . . 



Finished cost 
Yards per pound, 8.68. 
Retail price, 4Sc. 



27%c. 
43%c. 
$1.80 



$ .0168 
.0059 
.0727 
.0110 
.0142 

$ .1206 
.0024 

$ .1230 
.0150 

$ .1380 



258 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARV 



ored ends, although this situation 
hardly ever comes up. Many mills 
have been afraid of handling silk and 
cotton mixtures, although this condi- 
tion should have been eliminated long 
ago. 

The production is as high, if not 
higher, than with the same class of 
cotton fabric, and when workers be- 
come used to handling the material 
little trouble is experienced. Profits 




m*m 




BESSj 



Harness Chain. 

have been large in making mese 
cloths, but competition and the ex- 
cessive prices charged by converting 
jobbers have stifled the demand some- 
what. There is no reason why the 
cloth analyzed should not sell for less 
than 35 cents per yard and still allow 
all sellers a large and satisfactory 
profit. The silk used in these fabrics 



-X 



y < ')j 



-FtH- rfeh- 
- 1 — i ' L i *! 



■'-■ 



-g-^-fj' 



— 4 4+4-w- T-*-- 



£rsj: ::::;: :::^.r 

Oul SE3 H8 

3-^ $ ■■• ■ 



=} 






- 



kit 



f :; 



Z£ 



— \3 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



259 



is rather uneven in size, but answers 
the purpose for which it was used sat 
isfactorily. Large advances have been 
made in the finishing of these cloths, 
and to-day the finish is admitted to be 
as good if not much better than can 
be obtained from any of the foreign 
plants. In the finishing it is custo- 
mary to bring the cloth out to its 
grey width, as the silk will admit of 
much greater stretching than the cot- 
ton filling. As yet no large number 
of patterns have been produced on 
jacquard looms, but without doubt, a 
large increase in various colors and 
combinations of material will be seen, 
while competition and a larger pro- 
duction will give more reasonable 
prices to consumers. To find the 
yards per pound the process is as 
follows: 

1,954 ends -4- (40/1 X 840) = .05S2, weight 

of grey yarn without take-up. 
5% take-up on all 40/1. 
.0582 -=- .95 = .0612, weight of grey warp 

in 1 yard of cloth. 
432 ends h- (40/1 X 840) = .0129, weight 

of colored yarn without take-up. 
.0129 -r- .95 = .0136, weight of colored yarn 

in 1 yard of cloth. 
64 pks. X 34%," reed width X 36" 

= 2.224 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
2,224 -i- (55,000 silk yardage) = .0404, 

weight ol silk per yard of cloth. 
.0612 + .0136 -f .0404 = .1152, total weight 

per yard. 
1.0000 -=- .1152 = 8.68 yards per pound. 



+ ♦ » 



MERCERIZED RUSSIAN CORD 
SHIRTING 

At various times we have mentioned 
the fact that the process of merceriza- 
tion and the use of fast colors Lad 
developed many new lines of shirtings 
and similar fabrics which fill a variety 
of uses. Not only have these proc- 
esses made it possible to produce fine 
fabrics of combed yarn and with 
beautiful effects which could not be 
produced at any price until compara- 
tively recently, but it has also made 
it possible to produce such cloths at 
low prices. That this has been of ben- 
efit to consumers thus early is easily 
proven by the cloth now under consid- 
eration. The price at retail is 35 cents 
per yard, and it is not too much to 



state that five years ago such a fabric 
could not have been purchased at any 
price. 

Many of the ordinary madras shirt- 
ings bring 45 cents or more at retail 
to-day, and do not compare with th» 
present cloth in either quality or con- 
struction. The facts are that many 
people purchase this cloth with the 
impression that it has a large amount 
of silk in its construction, and this idea 
is certainly justified by the appearance 
when sold. The gloss will not wash 
out, and the color will remain as 
bright when the cloth is completely 
worn out as it was when sold. Of 
course, there is not the wear to this 
fabric which there is in many madras 
shirtings, but no one should expect 
such a condition, for the cloth is light- 
er per yard and the yarns are much 
finer than most madras shirtings, but 
the fabric is a beautiful and service- 
able one. To show that the cloth is 
comparatively 

REASONABLE IN PRICE 

when so new is shown by the retail 
price of 35 cents per yard, and also 
by the fact that made-up shirts have 
been offered and sold at retail in this 
cloth and pattern at 95 cents each. 
As it takes somewhat over 3 yards 
of cloth to produce a shirt, the dis- 
crepancy between the price of cloth 
and shirts at retail is probably due 
to the fact that the shirt make pur- 
chased the cloth very cheaply and 
from first hands, thereby saving quite 
a little. Never in the sale of such 
articles has the writer seen so much 
value and cheapness, especially in 
the cost of a new idea. 

There are a number of interesting 
features which can be noted in the 
construction of this variety of fabrics. 
It has been found from experience that 
certain constructions are more suit- 
able than others for this style of 
cloth. The warp is usually made of 
finer yarn and with a coarser count 
than the filling, and for this reason, 
the latter usually forms a larger part 
of the cloth, and the warp yarn is 
more or less covered up. One con- 
struction largely used for ground 
cloth is 64 by 72, with 50s-l warp and 
30s-l filling; another is 64 to 72 by 
92 to 104, with 70s-l or 80s-l warp 



260 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



and 40s-l or 45s-l filling. Of course, 
many constructions are used, but 

THE GENERAL IDEA 
given above is nearly always present. 
Many buyers ask for a soiesette con- 
struction, while others ask for a suit- 
able cloth for mercerization, although 
at present the yarns and counts are 
well enough known among buyers to 
be usually asked for. Many other 
yarns and counts are used, and cloth 
weights are heavier, in many in- 
stances, than on the cloth considered, 
being many times heavier than ordi- 
nary madras shirtings. Filling yarn 



to the cloth but also ensures a much 
larger production when the yarn is 
being made. In many 

MERCERIZED FABRICS 
various qualities of Egyptian cotton 
are sometimes used, as the results 
when finished are more satisfactory. 
Possibly, more of the cotton imported 
is used in cloths which are mercer- 
ized than for any other one product 
excepting hosiery and underwear. The 
large reason why ordinary madras 
shirtings do not possess the luster and 
appearance which many of these new 
cloths have is because they are not 




Mercerized Russian Cord Shirting. 



is almost always made of combed 
material, and because results are bet- 
ter, the yarn usually has a compara- 
tively small amount of twist per inch. 
The standard in many yarns made on 
ring frames possibly would be in the 
vicinity of 3.25, although standards of 
as low as 2.75 have been used on 
frames. Sometimes mule-spun yarn is 
used with less twist than that of 
ring yarn, but too small an amount 
makes a weak cloth. Because of the 
small amount of twist it is necessary, 
in many cases, to use longer staple 
cotton than on ordinary yarn. This 
method not only gives more strength 



mercerized, and they are not process- 
ed in this manner, because the yarn 
used is twisted so hard that no sat- 
isfactory results are obtained. A 
comparatively large amount of twist 
is necessary in yarns for madras 
shirtings, so that the yarns can be 
handled, bleached and dyed in a sat- 
isfactory and economical manner. 
Many processes are eliminated when 
cloth is woven from grey yarns which 
are necessary and expensive when 
cloth is made from bleached and dyed 
material. The cloth is mercerized In 
the piece, and the filling, which, as 
above noted, is soft twist, takes prac- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



261 



tically all the mercerization noticed. 
This makes it necessary that some 
method be used whereby the cloth is 
held out in the filling direction when 
the mercerization is taking place, for 
unless this is done, no luster will be 
imparted. This is done in various 
methods which are of little impor- 
tance in the discussion excepting for 
the fact that this result must be pro- 
duced by 

HEAVY TENSION 
on the filling in the cloth. 

For a number of years grey cloth 
was mercerized in the piece, but, natu- 
rally, the resulting fabric did not com- 
pete with cloth in which color was 
used, excepting in an indirect man- 
ner, by eliminating some purchases, 
and rather new uses were found for 
the product. Then when this field 
was fairly well established, a new 
development ensued which as yet is 
only in its infancy. This is the use 
of fast colors which will stand the 
bleaching process. As will be read- 
ily seen, this process places the grey 
cloth mills which had previously pro- 
.duced cloths for mercerization in the 
white state into more or less direct 
competition with many of the older 
mills and fabrics, and without doubt, 
has opened new fields which as yet 
have hardly been touched. To show 
what this development has meant it 
can be stated that southern mills are 
to-day making colored lines in which 
the colored yarn is sent North to be 
dyed, and then reshipped to the mill 
to be woven into cloth which is to- 
day being sold at lower prices for the 
same construction than many of the 
older mills can possibly sell at. Few 
of the older mills could produce 

FANCY JACQUARD PATTERNS 
with colors in their construction, but 
now the supply can be made large 
with any demand. Another thing 
which will mean better cloth to the 
consumer is the fact that most of 
these newer fabrics are composed of 
combed yarns, and the finished re- 
sults are much more even than many 
of the older cloths. Not only do the 
yarns make more even cloth but the 
finishing processes used on grey 
cloth eliminate to a large extent, or 
entirely, the reed marks which are 



more or less visible in cloth woven 
from bleached yarns, and which spoil 
somewhat the cloth's appearance. 
While the reduction in the cost of 
making is not so great on some fab- 
rics as it is on others there is no 
doubt but that in a general way rad- 
ical reductions are and can be made. 
Possibly, one of the large results 
aside from the costs is the fact that 
the making of so many new cloths 
with absolutely fast colors will force 
buyers and makers into demanding 
much better colors than many have 
been accustomed to use. This does 
not apply to some of the mills which 
make older lines, for they have been 
quick enough to see the possibilities 
in the use of these colors and what it 
means to their future business, but 
there is very large 

CHANCE FOR IMPROVEMENT 

in the colors which some mills are 
accustomed to produce. 

We have not gone into detail re- 
garding the individual cloth under 
consideration. It is what is known 
as a Russian cord, and this portion 
is composed of the fast-colored yarn. 
Some mills make these results on an 
ordinary dobby loom with leno attach- 
ment and use either top or bottom 
doups, but possibly a large portion is 
made with a reed, which allows the 
ground of the cord to operate practi- 
cally not at all, while it allows the 
crossing end free access to both sides 
of the ground yarn. The main fact 
is that the crossing thread is bound 
into the cloth first on one side of the 
ground yarn and on the next pick on 
the other side. This continual chang- 
ing entirely covers up the ground 
threads, and because of the large 
number of picks makes a very smooth 
round cord which cannot be produced 
in any other way, for it appears when 
woven like a braid sewed onto the 
cloth. Due to 

THE CROSSING PROCESS, 

there is a large take-up on this leno 
or crossing yarn, and so great is this 
take-up that it requires almost six 
inches of yarn to weave one inch of 
cloth. Care must be used when cloth 
is made of this character, for any va- 
riation in the tension will produce a 



262 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



different effect. This care should also 
be used when plain stripes of color 
are in the pattern, for most always 
the colored yarn is on a separate 
beam, and if the tension is not right 
a poorly-woven result is likely. This 
care is not so necessary when weav- 
ing in mills which use bleached yarn, 
for it is customary to place the dif- 
ferent colors along with the white 
yarn on the same beam, and of ne- 
cessity, the yarn would have the same 
take-up, although care is necessary 
when the colors are placed on the 



when made, and the filling sized about 
45s-l and was probably 40s-l. These 
sizes can only be assumed, for mill 
yarn sizes vary even when care is 
taken, and under the best of operat- 
ing conditions. The reason the per- 
centage of loss was greater on the 
filling may be due to the fact that the 
yarn was soft twist and to the process 
of finishing. No accurate tests have 
been made regarding yarn losses in 
finishing grey cloths, but from 7 to 10 
per cent would be a fair average tak- 
en from a variety of fabrics. The 



PATTERN. 



70/1 Am. combed 

30/1 Am. combed, colored. 
60/2 Am. combed, colored. 



24 




6S 


6 

1 


1 


6 


6 

1 


136 
l| 


30 




24 


= 


2.168 

228 

38 










19 > 


C 












2.434 total 



uye- 
ing. 








= 


44%c 


16c. 


= 


40c. 


16c. 


= 


60%c 




= 


32c. 



40/1 Am. combed filling-. 100 picks. 

31 reed; 35%" width in reed, 34" grey width, 32" finished width. 

66 X 100 (grey count ground); 76 X 100 (finished count over all). 

YARNS. 

Labor, Twist- 
Cotton, waste, ing. 
70/1 Am. combed, grey; 1%" sta. ; 14 hank dou. rov., 24c. 20%c. 
30/1 Am. combed, colored; l%"sta.; 6 hank dou. rov., 16c. 8c. 
60/2 Am. combed, colored; 1%" sta. ; 12 hank dou. rov., 24c. 16%c. 4c. 
40/1 Am. combed, grey; l%"sta.; 9 hank dou. rov., 21c. lie. 

COST. 

2,168 ends 70/1 Am. combed + 5% take-up = .03SS @ 44%c. = $ .0173 

228 ends 30/1 Am. combed + 2% take-up = .0092 @ 40c. = .0037 

3S ends 60/2 Am. combed + 83% take-up = .00S8 @ 60%c. = .0053 

100 picks 40/1 Am. combed = .1064 @ 32c. = .0341 

Weaving .0188 

Expenses .0221 

% .1013 
Selling .0020 

Cost grey $.1033 

Bleaching, mercerizing, etc .0175 

Cost finished $ .1208 

Yards per pound, 6.13 grey. 
Retail price, 35c. per yard. 
Retail purchasing price, about 22 Vic. per yard. 



beam in the first place to see that 
none build up more than others. In 
the large majority of instances cloths 
such as the one considered lose in 
weight from 

THE FINISHING PROCESSES. 

Of necessity, the yarns are finer 
than in the grey cloth or when spun, 
although this loss may vary to a 
large extent. In the cloth analyzed 
the warp yarn in the ground cloth 
actually sized 74%, and was probably 
70s-l, or supposed to have been 70s-l 



twist in the yarn, the amount of 
stretch given the cloth, the kind and 
quality of cotton used, the process of 
finishing and other factors all affect 
the result somewhat. Possibly, any 
one mill could tell within reasonable 
limits what losses its own cloth would 
have, but they would apply only in a 
general way to cloths which others 
produced and which were completed 
by a different finishing works. Some- 
times cloths which are mercerized lose 
in length and at other times they do 
not. The cloth construction has 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



26» 



something to do with the results, but 
on most of the grey goods which are 
finished but not mercerized, there is 
an appreciable stretch of greater or 
less degree, depending upon the cloth 
and conditions. 

Inasmuch as some yarn has a large 
take-up in this cloth, it may be well 
to give the method pursued in ob- 
taining the various weights of yarn: 

2,168 ends -=- (70/1 X 840) = .0369, warp 

weight of 70/1 without weaving take-up. 
5% take-up in weaving on 70/1. 
.0369 -+- .95 = .0388, warp weight of 70/1 

(total). 
228 ends -r- (30/1 X 840) == .0090, weight 

of 30/1 colored without weaving take-up. 
2% take-up in weaving 30/1 colored. 
.0090 -*- .98 = .0092, warp weight of 30/1 

colored (total). 
38 ends -r- (60/2 X 840) = .0015. weight of 

60/2 colored without weaving take-up. 
83% take-up in weaving 60/2 colored. 
.0015 -4- .17 = .0088, warp weight of 60/2 

colored (total). 
100 picks X 35 V width In reed X 36" 

— — = 3,575 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
3,575 h- (40/1 X 840) = .1064, weight of 

filling (total). 
.0388 4- .0092 + .0088 -f .1064 = .1632, total 

weight per yard. 
1.0000 -f- .1632 = 6.13 yards per pound 

(grey). 



MERCERIZED SEERSUCKER 
STRIPE 

This cloth represents one of a class 
of fabrics which are having quite a 
sale at present, and one which is like- 
ly to be used extensively another sea- 
son, for converters are getting out va- 
rious styles along these lines. In a 
general way, these seersucker fabrics 
are of two kinds. In the first, the 
crinkle is woven in the cloth by a 
weaving process, while in the second, 
the effect is made by a printing proc- 
ess through the application of the 
principle of mercerization. Some time 
ago we gave the analysis of a woven 
crinkle, and the one now considered 
is of the second or printed variety. Of 
course, there are pressed fabrics 
which bear some resemblance to the 
printed fabric now considered, but 
they are not so satisfactory and are 



much less used, especially for dress 
purposes. 

The patterns used in the past have 
been more or less 

SIMPLE IN CHARACTER, 
because of the method of producing, 
but some deviations from the older ef 
fects are now being seen, and it is 
very likely that a greater variety will 
be shown, especially in the offerings 
for another season. Most of the pat- 
terns shown are somewhat similar to 
the sample considered, having stripes 
of various widths and spacing, and 
with no delicate effects, which are 
possible through the weaving opera- 
tions on other lines of fancy cloths. 

The fabric considered shows one 
method of finishing, which produces 
a novelty effect from an ordinary 
plain fabric. Unquestionably, the 
large quantity of all kinds of cloth 
which is used is of the plain variety, 
and many times when finished shows 
little resemblance to the original fab- 
ric. Because of the numerous inter- 
lacings in plain weave cloths, there 
is usually much better service noted, 
and because of the simpleness of the 
processes employed in production the 
cost of most plain lines is low, and 
the distribution is larger and stead- 
ier than on other more expensive 
fabrics, which are in good demand 
when stylish, but which can hardly be 
sold when the season for wear is past. 

Wide uses are found for this cloth, 
and from the appearances when fin- 
ished, few people would imagine the 
results to be of 

IDENTICAL CONSTRUCTION 
when woven. To give the names 
which are ap r Uert to the various 
lines and the uses to which they are 
put would fill a small volume, but 
generally, they find a wide applica- 
tion, largely depending on their serv- 
iceability. It used to be thought by 
many mill men of the older school 
that the looms which could make 
nothing but plain weave were unfit 
to produce any novelties whatever. 
That this is a mistake is clearly prov- 
en by the results which some mills 
are obtaining, for thev are making 
rather high-grade novelties for their 
class of goods, and are using cords in 
various patterns, together with fast 



264 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



colors, producing goods on a print 
cloth basis which yield them a higher 
profit than their ordinary work. 

As yet the manufacturing end of the 
business does not 

SEE THE POSSIBILITIES 
in the making of various iabrics whic 1 
the finishing end has realized. It is 
probably true that many more im- 
provements have been made in the fin- 
ishing of cloth in the past ten years 
than there have been in the manufac- 
turing. Due to the finisning processes, 
many fabrics could not be recogniz^a 
by their maker, and this applies to 
plain and fancy cloths alike. The 
cloth in most cases shows a largely 
different appearance, and, except in 
few instances, the results are an im- 
provement, and are better adapted for 
the uses to which the material is to 
be put. 

The past year manufacturers have 

REALIZED THE POSSIBILITY 
of slight changes more than ever be- 
fore, and it is very likely that one of 
the large advantages from the lack 
of business will be the teaching of 
manufacturers to adapt ideas to the 
weaving possibilities. This does not 
mean that a plain mill need be turned 
into a novelty one, but that through 
adaptability increased profits can bt 
made with the machinery in use 
This has been one part of the man 
ufacturing trade which has been 
largely overlooked in recent years 
and one which will be given mucL 
more attention in the future. 

As this fabric shows such a wide 
variation from that noticed on the 
same construction finished in other 
ways, it may be well to state some- 
thing regarding the 

PROCESS OF MERCERIZATION, 
for this is the means whereby the re- 
sults are produced. It may not be 
generally known, but the process of 
mercerization does not always pro- 
duce the luster which usually desig- 
nates the process. The change in the 
cotton fibre when mercerized under 
tension is to make it more or less 
like a small glass rod, which reflects 
light to a greater or less degree, de- 
pending on the twist in the yarn and 
the method of handling. Cotton fibre 



in the ordinary cloth or in the raw 
state is a rather flat twisted tube, with 
somewhat corrugated edges. 

That there is a widely different re- 
sult in mercerization when yarn or 
cloth is under tension is shown by the 
fact that the process was originally 
used to a great extent for shrinking 
cloth, thereby giving a much closer 
count than when woven, but under 
this n eJiod, when allowed to shrink, 
no luster is imparted to the fibre. The 
above is the principle which is em- 
p.oyed in the cloth considered, but the 
application is somewhat different than 
when first used. It will be noted that 
the threads in the cloth appear 
straight in some stripes, and have a 
crinkled effect in others. The threads 
in the straight stripes are the ones 
where mercerization has taken place, 
and the cloth has been allowed to 
shrink in these spaces, and this forces 
the rest of the fabric to crinkle, giving 
the effect noted. 

me 

PROCESS IS ACCOMPLISHED 

through the use of the printing ma- 
chine, but as the pattern is simple, 
no description is required, excepting 
that the change takes place in stripes 
of various widths in the cloth. There 
are other problems which are of 
much interest in the finishing of this 
cloth, and while they are of benefit 
to the finisher, they are of much more 
value to the firm having the goods fin- 
ished. It will be noted that there are 
56 picks per inch in the grey cloth, 
and 66 picks per inch in the finished 
cloth, a net loss in yardage by shrink- 
ing of 18 per cent. This is the loss as 
shown by the picks in the cloth, but 
does not include the losses in finish- 
ing, which naturally take place. As a 
general thing, the finisher charges 
two cents per yard for this . class of 
work, with a working loss of 25 per 
cent in the yardage delivered. In ac- 
tual practice, the total loss to some 
converters has been 21 per cent, al- 
though, naturally, the patterns em- 
ployed will vary the loss somewhat, as 
the heavier the mercerization the 
larger the loss in shrinkage. 

It is very evident that a much dif- 
ferent situation exists regarding 
these fabrics than there does on 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



SSttft 



many other lines, for a converter will 
receive 100 per cent or more than 
this amount of the yardage shipped, 
so on very many cloths there is no 
actual loss in yardage, and there is 
many times a slight gain received, and 
this helps to partially cover the finish- 
ing charges. 
On some fabrics, the 

ACTUAL DELIVERIES 

are from 103 to 105 per cent of the 
yardage delivered to the finisher, 
the amount varying according to the 
cloth construction and other de- 
tails. It will be noted that the in- 



yarn, as can be noted from the cloth 
width in the grey and finished states 
or from the cloth counts. Most of the 
fabrics are sold in the white or 
bleached state, although a certain por- 
tion of the lines are dyed various col- 
ors. The 

FABRIC ANALYZED 

is lighter in weight, and has a some- 
what lower count than many of the 
cloths now being sold. Sometimes a 
retail price of 25 cents per yard is 
charged for the cloth which has only 
a very little different construction 
than that considered, and the jobbing 



PATTERN. 

2 2 

50/1 Am. combed warp — 2,796 — = 2,876 total ends. 

20 20 

60/1 Am. combed filling. 56 picks. 

35 reed, 40%" width in reed, 38" grey width, 30%" finished width. 
74 X 56 grey count; 93 X 66 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton, Labor, waste, etc. 

50/1 Am. combed, 1%" sta. ; 10 hank dou. row, 24c. 14M>c. = 38%c. 

60/1 Am combed, 1%" sta.; 14 hank dou. row, 24c. 15%c. = 39%c. 

COST. 

2,876 ends 50/1 Am. combed + 5% take-up = .0721 @ 38 %c. = $ .0278 

56 picks 60/1 Am. combed '. = .0450 @ 39%c. = .0179 

Weaving .0030 

Expenses .0063 

$ .0550 
Selling .0011 

Mill cost $ .0561 

Converters purchasing price (about) $ .0600 

Converters net cost of cloth allowing 21% shrinkage .0759 

Finishing and mercerizing .0200 

Converters cost $ .0959 

Converters selling price (about) $ .1100 

Jobbers selling price (about) .1250 

Retailers selling price .1900 

Yards pei pound, 8.53 grey. 

Plain weave. 



creased cost to the converter, because 
of the method of finishing, is about 
iy 2 cents per yard. This is in addi- 
tion to the regular finishing charges 
of 2 cents per yard. 

There is one reason why this proc- 
ess is not used to a larger extent, and 
this is because the cloth will stretch 
somewhat, although it does not do this 
enough to render the process of no 
value, but it would be better if this 
stretch could be eliminated, although, 
of course, there is the added objection 
of the higher price because of the loss 
in finishing. The process as employed 
affects the filling as well as the warp 



price is then about 16 cents a yard, 
with a converter's price of about 14 
cents. Certain of the war*/ threads 
are made heavier in siz^ because of 
the process employed, and the threads 
tested in size should be the ones 
which crinkle, rather than the ones 
which lie straight in the cloth. 

That the various methods of mer- 
cerization are largely on the increase 
can be confirmed by almost any fin- 
isher of the better kinds of cloth. Re- 
cently, the use has been increased by 
being applied to voile fabrics, al- 
though this is not generally known 
outside of a comparatively few sell- 



2«« 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ers. This process applied to voiles 
gives a rounder yarn, and a much 
clearer looking cloth, which is highly 
desirable on these fabrics. Crepes 
are also sometimes treated in this 
manner, and it gives an added appear- 
ance and an 

INCREASED VALUE 

to the materials. It gives a much dif- 
ferent appearance than when a crepe 
is made by hot water shrinking. Even 
fabrics made of ordinary print cloth 
carded yarn are being treated in this 
manner, and the results produced 
many times warrant the extra expen- 
ditures. Only a few years ago it was 
believed that the process was of little 
value, except on the better yarns and 
on the more expensive cloths, but due 
to large use and reduction in the cost 
of finishing, many of the cheaper fab- 
rics are now being treated in this 
manner, and it is probable that much 
more use will be noted in the future. 

The finished yards per pound are 
likely to be about iy± to iy 2 . It will 
be noticed that this is heavier than 
the grey yardage. Many fabrics are 
lighter when finished than when wo- 
ven, and sometimes sizing material is 
added to bring the weight to about 
that which the grey cloth had pre- 
viously been. To obtain the weights 
of yarn and the grey yards per pound 
before finishing the process is as fol- 
lows: 

2,876 ends -s- (50/1 X 840) = .0685, warp 

weight without take-up. 
5% take-up in weaving. 
.0685 -f- .95 = .0721, total warp weight per 

yard of cloth. 
56 picks X 40%" width In reed X 36" 

= 2,268 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
2,268 -> (60/1 X 840) = .0450, total filling 

weight per vard of cloth. 
.0721 + .0450 = .1171, total weight per 

yard. 
1.0000 -h .1171 = 8.54 yards per pound 

(grey). 



JAGQUARD WAISTING 

The class of fabrics under consider- 
ation has a large sale and are used 
not only for waists, but also for many 
other purposes. The ideas used in 
constructing these lines vary from 



year to year as fashion changes, but 
the yarns used do not differ widely in 
size nor does the cloth weight change 
much. Most of the various grades 
weigh between five and six yards per 
pound, but the warp and filling count 
may be widely different. The idea 
used in this cloth is a good one, and 
is adopted at various times for bring- 
ing out effects on other fabrics be- 
side waistings. No large use has been 
made of it for some years, and it is 
very likely to be in demand within a 
comparatively short time. The whole 
ground effect is produced by having 
one light thread and then one heavy 
thread throughout the warp. While 
this cloth is made with two ends of 
yarn in place of a heavy one, the re- 
sult is the same as if a single heavy 
end were used. 

By this process of drawing-in ends, 
the woven result is given a sort of 
ribbed appearance, this effect being 
made because the heavy ends are all 
raised together, making a high place 
in the cloth, whereas when the light 
ends are raised practically no rib is 
made. 

THE PATTERN 

is produced on a jacquard machine, 
and is made wholly by raising the va- 
rious heavy ends where desired. To 
make the cloth as firm as possible, the 
weave of the light ends is changed 
where the pattern is woven to a plain 
weave on the back of the cloth. 
This is purely a practical idea 
applied to a cloth to produce a 
better result. If this was not done, 
the ends where the pattern is woven 
would slip together, leaving a rath- 
er loose place in the fabric and spoil- 
ing the effect. Such practical ap- 
plications show that experience has 
taught the maker of such fabrics some 
lessons which might be well absorbed 
by others, for we have seen similar 
cloths which would allow of much im- 
provement along this line. 

In making patterns for fabrics of 
this character, it is well to bear in 
mind that bad streaks are easily pro- 
duced either in the warp or filling, 
which are likely to spoil the sale. If 
drop wires are used in weaving, any 



▲ COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



267 



very unequal spacing of figures Is 
liable to make some threads with a 
small take-up, and for this reason, 
create endless trouble, unless the pat- 
tern is changed. 

The yarn which forms the figure is 

MERCERIZED BEFORE WEAVING, 

because tension enough to give satis- 
factory results would break the light- 
er yarn in the warp. The yarns are 
used in the grey state, and the fabric 
is bleached and finished, when woven, 
practically the same as any ordinary 
grey fabric. As a usual thing, this 
class of cloths is not a very good 
weaving proposition, for the warp is 
reeded two heddles or mail-eyes to a 
dent, and this gives three ends per 
dent, one a heavy end and one a com- 
paratively light end and the heavy end 
will rub the light end, causing 
trouble in some instances. The con- 
struction and yarns used have a 
great deal to do with the 
amount of trouble caused, although 
no unusual weaving condition should 
be noted in the cloth we have 
analyzed, for the count is low and 
the yarns should be able to stand any 
chafing which would occur. It is when 
a two-ply end, which sizes from 10-2 
to 20-2, is woven in the same dent 
with rather fine single yarn and a 
rather fine reed that the percentage 
of production falls down and deliver- 
ies are not made on time. A large 
amount of seconds are also likely, and 
this eliminates a certain portion of 
the possible profits. This identical 
pattern could be made on various jac- 
quard machines, but it is probable 
that it was made on a 600-machine, 
which was tied up in the comber 
board five inches wide, giving a possi- 
ble count in the reed of about 120 per 
inch. We have assumed that the mer- 
cerized yarn was drawn in two-ply, 
and this makes a smaller number of 
harnesses used. As there are 286 
ends used in each repeat, it gives 314 
hooks or harnesses to cast out: 

600 — 286 = 314 cast out. 

As a 600-machine is built in rows of 
12, this makes 26 rows, and 2 hooks 
cast out, or about 13 rows in each 



half- machine. A good method to use 
in casting out is as follows: 

CAST OUT ROWS. 
3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15, 16, 19, 20. 23, 24, 25. 28, 
29, 32, 33, 36, 37, 40, 41, 44, 45, 48, 49, 50, 
and last two hooks in row 47. 

In this cloth a rather 

UNUSUAL CONDITION 
exists, for there are exactly 6 repeats 
or the pattern: 

29 reed X 30" reed width = 870 total dents. 
870 — 12 selvages = 858 cloth dents. 
858 -r- 143 dents in a repeat = 6 repeats. 

Assuming that the loom is tied up for 
a 40 -inch reed space, which many of 
them are, this would give 8 repeats 
in the harness: 

600 -f- 120 per inch = 5" repeat. 
4 0" -s- 5 = 8 repeats of tie-up. 

Under the above conditions there 
would be exactly two sections of har- 
nesses with no ends weaving, one sec- 
tion on each side of the loom. The 
warp would then be drawn, starting 
on the first hook in room No. 1 and 
section No. 2, and would finish on 
hook No. 10 in row No. 47 and section 
No. 7. To make the reed width and 
the harness width the same, a dif- 
ferent number of ends should have 
been used: 

29 reed ~ 5" tie-up = 145 dents. 

As 143 dents were used, a stretch of 
two dents in 5 inches, is noted, or 
in the whole cloth width a stretch of 
12 dents, or about 2-5 of an inch. 
This will cause no trouble in this 
cloth, for it is a comparatively small 
amount, and the harness width is 
wider than 

THE REED WIDTH, 
which helps in the matter, but the 
policy is a bad one to adopt unless 
care is used. To obtain the correct 
count in the cloth and use a certain 
ground weave sometimes makes a 
stretch between harness and reed 
necessary, but the amount should be 
as small as possible, as it causes hard 
wear through rubbing on the edges of 
the cloth, sometimes making a cloth 
a poor running one when it should 
be a good one. As all the heavy 
yarn is raised on one pick and all the 



att 



▲ COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



light yarn on the next, a certain strain 
on the loom results, which should be 
eliminated as much as possible so as 
not to produce streaky cloth. 

Because of the low count, somewhat 
over 30 per inch on the ends which 
produce the figure, the effects ob- 
tained are rather crude in comparison 
with many of tbe finer woven fabrics. 
A small change where the count is 
low sometimes results in a much bet- 
ter looking pattern. The take-up in 
weaving on the 60-2 is quite large, for 
no high tension is used, so as to 
accentuate the effect desired. In many 
of these kinds of fabrics, Egyptian 



production per loom is comparatively 
large, due to the small number of 
picks per inch. 

In finishing, the fabric does not 
shrink much in width and 

IS PULLED SLIGHTLY 

in length. The amount of stretch al- 
ways depends on the construction of 
the cloth, and the amount gained 
might be a different one from two 
mills producing the identical clotti 
through operating warps at different 
tensions. The cotton stock sometimes 
makes a difference, because if a yarn 
is weak it will not run satisfactorily 



PATTERN. 



30/1 Am. combed grey. 



80/2 Eg. combed mercerized. 



2 




1 






2 


12 




2 




12 






i 


1 







2,622 total ends. 



30/1 Am. combed filling; 60 picks. 
29 reed; 30" width in reed, 28" grey width 
94 X 58 finished count. 

YARNS. 



85SX 
27%" finished width; 93 X 60 grey count; 



30/1 Am. combed, 1%" sta. ; 6 hank dou. rov., 
60/2 Eg. combed, 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 
30/1 Am. combed, 1%" sta.; 7 hank dou. rov., 



Cotton. 
16c. 
26c. 
10c. 



Labor, 

waste, 

etc. 

Sc, 

17c. 

8%c. 



Twisting, 
merceriz- 
ing, etc. 



COST. 

906 ends 30/1 Am. combed + 5% take-up = .0379 

1,716 ends 60/2 Eg. combed + 17% take-up = .0S20 

60 picks 30/1 Am. combed = .0714 

Weaving : 

Expenses 

Selling 



24c. 
55c. 
24 %c. 



Mill or grey cost. 



Price to converter (about) . 
Finishing, bleaching, etc. . . 
Price to retailer (about) . . . 

Price to consumer 

Yards per pound, 5.23 (grey). 



24c. 
55c. 
24%c. 



$ .0091 
.0451 
.0173 
.0127 
.0165 
.0021 

$ .1028 

$ .1200 
.0125 
.1650 
.2500 



cotton is used for the yarn which is 
mercerized, a better gloss being ob- 
tained in this manner. Another thing 
which helps in giving added sheen is to 
make the two-ply yarn of soft twist, 
which is most always done. Because 
yarn is made soft twist, it is almost 
always used in the two-ply form to 
give satisfactory strength to handle 
when mercerized in the yarn state, 
although much soft twist single yarn 
is used when cloth is mercerized in 
the piece. Jacquard looms are not 
operated so fast as dobby looms which 
make the same kind of cloth, but the 



under high tension, and the use of 
drop-wires will also affect the result. 
No large amount of knowledge is 
necessary in making up designs for 
a cloth of this nature. To obtain the 
best effects, a little care is necessary, 
but the amount of sketching and 
painting is small, and little more time 
would be required to lay out this de- 
sign than that on many complicated 
dobby patterns. To get a good cloth 
construction, which can be made and 
sold at a price to return a good profit, 
requires much more ability, and. to 
produce and sell a satisfactory cloth 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



269 



construction, similar to the one an- 
alyzed, largely overshadows the small 
ability required in fitting the design 
to cloth. 

It is becoming a matter of the 
greatest importance to buyers to have 
men who can produce fabrics at a 
price, and a large share of responsi- 
bility has been taken from mills, es- 
pecially those making what might be 
called the newer fabrics. At the mills 
the idea is simply worked out on the 
construction ordered. The cloth con- 
struction and price are of far more 
importance in the sale than the de- 
signs in the majority of instances, al- 
though naturally a satisfactory effect 
helps the sale on any cloth, and a 
poor design will sometimes kill a good 
idea. The aim should always be to 
obtain the best results. The weights 
are obtained as follows: 

906 ends -*- (840 X 30/1) = .0360, weight 

of 30/1 without take-up. 
5% take-up in weaving. 
.0360 -s- .95 = .0379, weight of 30/1 with 

take-up. 
1.716 ends -f- (840 X 60/2) = .0681, weight 

of 60/2 without take-up. 
17% take-up in weaving. 
.0681 -h .83 = .0820, weight of 60/2 with 

take-up. 
60 picks X 30" reed width X 36" 

= 1,800 yds. 

36" 

of filling per yard of cloth. 

1,800 -h (840 X 30/1) = .0714, weight of 

filling. 
.0379 + .0820 + .0714 = .1913, total weight 

per yard. 
1.0000 h- .1913 = 6.23 yards per pound. 

(grey). 

+++■ 



FANCY ALL-OVER LENO 

In the selling of various fabrics 
there appears, with more or less fre- 
quency, a cloth on which the price is 
excessive. Possibly such occurrences 
are more numerous in the sale of silk 
fabrics than they are with those of 
other materials, but, nevertheless, 
they do occur in all lines. That such 
prices are justified may be the conten- 
tion of many sellers, and their argu- 
ment is well taken, if novelty and 
newness be considered, but consumers 
must expect to obtain but little actual 
relative value when comparison is 
made with other fabrics. Instead of 
paying for value, they pay largely for 



style, and many purchasers are will- 
ing that such should be the case. 

There is one glaring injustice in the 
method as at present in force, and 
this is regarding the prices received 
by the various sellers. It is a fact 
that many mills, and some converters, 
are continually attempting to produce 
something different, either in regard 
to patterns or constructions, and that 
they bring successful results is amply 
proven by an examination of some of 
the lines shown to-day, but inasmuch 
as most mills are not in touch with 
selling to the retailer or consumer 
and have no way in which to gauge 
the possibilities of any cloth, they in- 
variably lose all or a large part of 
the benefits which should come to 
them for their ability in originality. 

On 

THE OTHER EXTREME, 

the retailer stands between consumer 
and seller, and acts as a bear to 
sellers' prices and a bull to the prices 
which the consumer must pay. In 
this manner it is possible for him to 
obtain excessively high prices on a 
fabric which shows novelty and style, 
and on which the other sellers have 
obtained but comparatively small re- 
turns. This exerts a double ef- 
fect, for it causes a small distri- 
bution with a high cost of production 
and effectually blocks the way for 
a mill to obtain the returns which 
should be received from a large sale 
and a lowering of production cost, and 
the other effect is that which con- 
sumers obtain regarding excessive 
mill profits. In other words, it makes 
a fabric which might be a compara- 
tively large seller with generous 
profits to all, a very small seller with 
the retailer obtaining the large 
profits, and profits which are not de- 
served through any excess of ability 
on his part. 

Of course, this statement does not 
mean that the retailer should not ob- 
tain more than his ordinary profit on 
a cloth which shows a novelty char- 
acter, for this is not true, as he is 
taking a larger chance on such ma- 
terials, but it does mean that where 
a few cents added to the maker's 
price will give him highly satisfactory 



270 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



returns, such an addition will make an 
insignificant appearance on the price 
to the consumers. Take the cloth we 
are considering as an illustration 
of this statement. One cent per yard 
to a maker will yield a profit per loom 
per week of about $3, because pro- 
duction is high, due to the small 
number of picks per inch, even with 
a slow loom speed and a low per- 
centage of production. Thus it will 
be seen that the profit per year at 
a net profit of one cent per yard will 
be about $150, and with a total valu- 
ation of $1,000 per loom, which is 



order will sometimes be novelties 
which never should have«.been includ- 
ed, and which mills should have re 
fused to make. 

We have seen leno stripes sold in 
the above manner at 5% cents per 
yard which no mill could make for 
less than 9 cents, and which some of 
the successive sellers would place in 
a higher classification, thereby de- 
liberately deceiving the mill regarding 
the retail prices and on which the 
mill should have received a higher 
price. Some sellers think such prac- 
tices are justified and that mills are 




Fancy Ail-Over Leno. 



high, the net profit would be about 
15 per cent, an entirely 

SATISFACTORY RETURN. 

We ask in all fairness to a mill 
whether or not such a return 
should be realized, especially when 
the price of this cloth at retail is 
$1.25 per yard. It can be stated as 
a fact that many times fabrics of high 
novelty character are sold by mills 
at lower comparative prices than 
some of the plainer lines. This may 
seem strange, but it is done through 
the method of selling, for many times 
a blanket order is placed, and in this 



at fault when it is done, but this does 
not appear entirely true, for sellers 
often say the good patterns carry 
along the others, while the facts are 
that higher prices are charged for the 
better ideas. 

The cloth we have analyzed is one 
of such cases. Whether the retailer 
is obtaining an enormous profit or 
whether some previous seller is ob- 
taining large returns is not known, 
but it is practically certain that no 
mill could receive a high enough price 
to justify such a retail price, namely, 
$1.25 a yard. Of course, the material 
is an all-over leno, but there is noth- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



271 




Hi 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ing about the manufacturing of it 
which any fancy mill with wide 
enough looms could not accomplish. 
If the leno yarn were of fine char- 
acter and liable to cause trouble, n 
would be a different matter, but the 
yarn used is strong and little break- 
age should occur. 

The cloth count is also low and aids 
in the weaving operation, while there 
are few picks per inch, giving a large 
yardage per loom with a correspond- 
ing decrease in production cost. We 
have seen large quantities of all-over 
lenos produced during the past few 
years, and sold at about 17 cents a 
yard, when the actual cost of produc- 
tion was as high or higher than this 
cloth, and the cloth was also a bad 
weaver with a large number of sec- 
onds, and what is more, the mills 
were very glad to obtain the orders, 
even under such conditions, for, as 
previously stated, the large production 
returned satisfactory profits. 

Inasmuch as this fabric is some- 
what different from those usually seen, 
it may be well to give more informa- 
tion regarding the making. To pro- 
duce a leno 

A DIFFERENT HARNESS 
is used. This consists of a standard 
harness with heddles placed on it, 
similar to those ordinarily used, but 
with extra heddle eyes. In addition 
to this harness is another which con- 
tains no heddles, but which has what 
are called doups, or loose yarn, which 
are attached to the base of this extra 
harness and which pass through the 
eyes of the standard harness. This 
arrangement allows free play to the 
doup harness, but another arrange- 
ment is made whereby, when the 
standard harness is raised, the doup 
is also raised. The crossing or doup- 
ing end is not drawn through the 
heddle eye, but through the doup loop. 
An examination of draft and chain 
will show the process and the method 
in which the various harnesses oper- 
ate. Instead of one doup, there 
are two necessary in this cloth to 
produce the pattern, because while 
some threads are changing, others are 
remaining either up or down. It will 
be noted that on the chain -draft we 



have used two harnesses alike, No. 
7 and No. 9. This is more for con- 
venience than for any other reason, 
and it may also help in operation. Be- 
cause of the different weave it is nec- 
essary to have two beams for the 
crossing yarns. 

It will be noticed that the crossing 
yarn is raised continually, while the 
ground yarn, which is drawn in two- 
ply, is continually depressed, a con- 
dition which in any other material 
would not produce a fabric at all, but 
which in this and similar lines makes 
a satisfactory cloth. In the weaving 
operation, the crossing ends have a 
much larger take-up than do the 
ground ends. This is shown in the 
analysis, for the crossing threads 
take up 38 per cent, while the ground 
yarn takes up but 11 per cent. In 
making fabrics of this nature it is 
customary to leave empty dents in 
the reed in planning the cloth. This 
gives a chance for the leno to spread 
and gives better results in certain in- 
stances. We have done this in our 
layout and the empty dents are clear- 
ly designated. When a fine count 
ground is used with leno stripes it 
is sometimes necessary to skip not 
one but a number of dents to make 
the right effect, and it is also some- 
times necessary to take out dents in 
the reed to allow room for the vari- 
ous ends to operate, for they 

ARE OFTENTIMES CROWDED, 
and the heavy crossing end, which is 
many times used, will break the fine 
ground threads, causing a large 
amount of trouble. Much care has 
to be exercised in making any kind 
of leno cloth, for the breaking of a 
doup through wear, or the breaking of 
one of the ends in weaving, will pro- 
duce a bad place in the fabric, much 
worse than would occur in the ordi- 
nary cloths. When the crossing ends 
are in a crossed position, or in other 
words, when both doup and standard 
harnesses are raised, it is necessary 
to have an arrangement whereby ex- 
tra crossing yarn is let off. This is 
necessary to ensure satisfactory weav- 
ing conditions, for the crossing end 
passes under the ground threads and 
more yarn length is needed if no 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



273 



breakages occur. When the crossing 
end returns, the yarn is pulled back. 
Where the slackener is marked in the 
chain shows the pick when each oper- 
ates. Usually the head is adapted so 
it can operate a whip roll arrange- 
ment to give the extra yarn when the 
threads cross. The jumper lifts the 
harnesses No. 7 and No. 9 half way 
and is of much service in straighten- 
ing out the doups on the ordinary 
double lift dobby loom. The weights 
of the yarns used and the yards per 
pound are obtained as follows: 



1,148 ends -+- (40/3 X 840; — .1025. ground 

warp weight without take-up. 
11% take-up in weaving. 
.1025 -+■ .89 = .1152, total ground warp 

weight per yard. 
2.8 ends -=- (40/3 X 840) = .0248, crossing 

warp weight without take-up. 
38% take-up in weaving. 
.024S -*- .62 — .0400, total crossing warp 

weight both on beam 2 and beam 3. 
47" width in reed X 30 picks per inch X 36" 

36" 

1,410 yards of filling per yard. 
1,410 -^ (40/3 X 840) = .1259, total weight 

of filling per yard. 
.1152 + .0400 + .0400 + .1259 = .3211, 

total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -s- .3211 = 3.11 yards per pound. 



PATTERN. 



40/3 Am. combed. 



40/3 Am. combed. 
40/3 Am. combed. 





1 *> 








o 






















18 


1 1 

1 


2 


2 


2 


1 




18 



= 1,148 beam 1. 



= 27 8 beam 2. 
= 278 beam 3. 



139X 
40/3 Am. combed filling. 30 picks. 

24 reed, 47" width in reed, 42" grey width, 42" finished width. 
40 X 30 allover finished count. 

YARN. 



1,704 total ends. 



Cotton. 
20c. 



Labor, 

waste, etc. 
10%c. 



Twisting. 
3c. 



40/3 Am. combed, 1%" sta. ; 8 hank dou. rov 
Warp and filling of same yarn. 

COST. 

1,148 ends 40/3 Am. combed + 11% take-up = .1152 @ 33 %c. 

278 ends 40/3 Am. combed + 38% take-up = .0400 @ 33%c. 

278 ends 40/3 Am. combed + 38% take-up = .0400 @ 33M>c. 

30 picks 40/3 Am. combed = .1259 @ 33%c. 

Weaving 

Expenses 



Selling 

Mill cost . . 
Finishing, etc. 
Yards per pound. 3.11 grey. 
Retail price, }1.25 per yard. 



33 % c. 



$ .0386 
.0134 
.0134 
.0422 
.0389 
.0088 

$ .1553 
.0031 

$ .1584 



COTTON SURF SERGE 

This fabric is one of a variety 
which we have not considered to any 
great extent previously and inasmuch 
as there are rather interesting fea- 
tures regarding the cloth and its fin- 
ishing, it may be well to give an 
analysis of a typical construction. As 
a general thing, these cloths are used 
for linings and similar uses, although 
they are also used for dresses and 
many other purposes, and the fabric 
in question was sold for the making 
of bathing suits, although we should 
imagine the utility would be limited in 
this direction for various reasons. 

While this identical cloth has a 



twill weave, the construction is very 
similar to that of many fine satins, 
that is, the same yarns are used and 
the cloth count is similar, the weaves 
alone making the different appearance 
when woven. Twill and satin weaves 
woven on the same number of har- 
nesses are practically identic ll, be- 
cause a satin weave is nothing more 
or less than a twill weave rearranged. 
The first difference noted between 
such a fabric as the one analyzed and 
most of the ordinary cloths is one of 
construction. In a plain cloth 

IT IS NOT NECESSARY 
to have nearly as high a count as it 
is with a weave such as has been 
used. When a cloth is woven, the 



2T4 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



number of threads and picks per inch 
and also the weave, together with the 
yarn size, regulate the cloth firm- 
ness, that is, a plain weave contains 
two warp threads in a repeat, but the 
filling yarn crosses between each 
thread, making it necessary to have a 
certain amount of space between each 
thread to allow for this crossing, while 
in a cloth where the weave does not 
change on every thread, fewer spaces 
for crossings are necessary and, there- 
fore, to make the cloth as firm as with 
plain weave, a larger number of 
threads or picks are necessary, if yarn 
sizes be identical in each fabric. Be- 
cause of the fine yarn sizes and the 
weave used this cloth has a high 
count, namely, 100 x 172 finished. In 
the first place it may be stated that 
a good deal of cloth such as that con- 
sidered is made on cam looms and the 
problem of manufacture is somewhat 
similar to that noted when plain cloths 
are made. 

This material is a quality product, 
for the yarns are well made, the weav- 
ing is even, and the result when fin- 
ished is very satisfactory. The yarn 
sizes are no finer than many of the 
up-to-date mills make continually and 
in large quantities, but sometimes in 
such a cloth as this better cotton 
would be used than if the yarn were 
to be used in so re other kind of 
cloth. This is done because there is 
an excessive amount of friction on 
the yarn due to the high number of 
picks per inch and resulting slow 
weaving, and unless good yarn is used 
loom production will be unsatisfac- 
tory. The large amount of filling on 
the surface makes it necessary for 
that yarn to be even, and to obtain a 
soft fabric the twist in the filling is 
likely to be iess than if used in other 
cloths. Comparatively few cloths are 
produced with as high a count as this 
fabric. The take-up in weaving 
is very small and in most cases the 
filling yarn shows a greater shrinkage 
than the warp. 

There is one item regarding this 
sort of cloth 

WHICH AFFECTS ITS COST 

greatly, and this is the high number 
of picks per inch. When a mill is 
making voiles, poplins, shirtings, or 



some other classes of goods the large 
production in yards per loom or per 
weaver makes the weaving and ex- 
pense costs comparatively low, and 
while much economy is possible, it will 
affect the ultimate cost but little, yet 
on such a fabric as that considered the 
labor cost is high, due to the small 
production, and there is a great chance 
for economy in producing, with a cor- 
responding reduction in cloth cost. 
Another thing which has to be con- 
sidered in this same direction is the 
obtaining of profits. 

With a loom weaving voiles or sim- 
ilar low pick cloth, a profit of one- 
half cent a yard might return satis- 
factory dividends because of large 
loom production, but when the picks 
per inch are as high as in this cloth 
with the resulting small yardage, a 
much greater return a yard is neces- 
sary if the same ultimate profit be 
secured from operation. It is entirely 
possible that a part of the recent par- 
tial operation in fine and fancy mills 
has been due to the kinds of cloth 
made, that is, the cloths sold have 
been largely voiles and poplins, both 
made with a small number of picks 
per inch, and while the yardage pro- 
duced may not be much smaller than 
usual it has been insufficient to give 
mills all they desired in the way of 
orders. A return to fabrics with a 
larger number of picks would, without 
doubt, aid much in making a better 
condition in fine and fancy goods man- 
ufacture. 

What the above 

REFERENCE TO PROFITS MEANS 

will perhaps be clearer by stating that 
a net profit of 2 cents a yard on such 
a fabric as this will only return a prof- 
it of about $1.55 per week, or about 
$80 per year per loom. Assuming that 
a loom valuation, or cost of a mill per 
loom, be about $600, and this is con- 
servative, the profits per year would 
only amount to about 13 per cent, 
surely not an excessive amount in 
comparison to what other sellers of 
cloth many times receive. 

As stated previously, there are in- 
teresting features regarding the finish- 
ing of this cloth. Probably most of 
such material i dyed a black shade, 
though this is not necessary, except- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



275 



ing when used for certain purposes. 
In many lines a full range of colors is 
sold. 

There is, however, one thing which 
is noted as soon as the cloth is seen, 
and this is the luster, the face of the 
cloth having a sheen which the back 
does not. In finishing such fabrics it 
is customary to singe off all the cotton 
fibres which project and this gives a 
rather smooth surface. Of course siz- 
ing n.ateriais are used, the ingredients 
depending on the results desired when 
finished, but in addition a calendering 
process is employed. 

Sometimes a fabric is finished dou- 
ble fold, thus giving the face a gloss 
which the back does not have, and 
sometimes an extra fabric is used as 
a back cloth and the material is run 
full width. In this case the top roll 
does the pressing. There is in this 
fabric a novel feature which is not 
oftentimes used and this can be seen 
by examining carefully with a magni- 
fying glass. On the fabric there ap- 
pears innumerable fine lines which 
run in opposite direction to the twill 
weave of the cloth. This is done by 
having the pressing roll milled in a 
manner to produce the effect. 

Though it may not be generally 
known, 

IT IS A FACT 

that the reflection of light produces 
a gloss and this reflection is made 
possible by pressing lines into the fin- 
ished fabric. Some have been in- 
clined to believe in the past that the 
excessive luster which some cloths 
had was either made through the use 
of mohair or through s^'zins; and 
pressing, but in many instances it is 
the method of pressing rather than 
the pressing alone which has pro- 
duced results such as tlmse seenont s e 
cloth analyzed. Naturally any press- 
ing or milling on a cotton fabric will 
disappear when the material is 
washed, and will also decline in luster 
through use without washing, so such 
a finish is not permanent, although 
the result noted when stM arinroacheu 
very many all -silk fabrics. One other 
reason which tends to make prices 
closer on various lines of satins is 
that orders are for quite large 
amounts, possibly not so large as for 



plain constructions, but much larger 
than for fancies. Fewer colors are 
usually required when finished and 
this tends to keep finishing costs 
rather low. 

The cost of production places this 
cloth in a much higher retail price 
than is noted on other cotton fabrics 
which do not have a fancy weave or 
a novelty construction. The material 
used in this fabric costs about 47 per 
cent of the total amount, leaving 53 
per cent for labor and expenses, while 
in very many other fine cloths the 
material constitutes about 60 per cent 
of the cost, with labor forming about 
40 per cent. Some kinds of coarse 
fabrics have labor costs as low as 15 
per cent of the total, and fie above 
statement shows how important care- 
fulness in management is in the pro- 
ducing of such cloths. To have the 
pressing or milling give as good re- 
sults as possible, the cloth should not 
have a great amount of tension in the 
width when being processed. This 
accounts for the larger amount of 
shrinkage in cloth width, when com- 
pared with other cloths in finishing. 

Very many fabrics of this nature 
HAVE A WARP COUNT 
of 96, and the number of picks are 
varied according to the yarn sizes 
and the weave used. Sometimes the 
number of picks is regulated to an 
extent by the price, and if a buyer 
needs to get inside of a certain limit, 
the reduction is usually made through 
a lowering of the picks per inch. 
There is a certain amount of stretch 
when the cloth is finished, but it is 
not so large as on some varieties of 
fine plain material. To obtain the 
yards per pound and the weights of 
the yarns used the process is as fol- 
lows: 

3.640 ends -=- (60/1 X 840) = .0722. weight 

of vrn without take-up. 
3% take-im in weaving. 
.0722 -=- .97 = .0744, total weight of warp 

nor varfl. 
176 picks X 40" width in reed X 36 ' 



= 7,040 



36" 



yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
7,040 -r- (60/1 X 840) = .1397, weight of 

filling n»r yard. 
0744 -f .1397 = .2141, total weight per 

! 0000 -5- .2141 = 4.67 yards per lb. (grey). 

Some mills would not make two 
sizes of roving if they were produc- 



276 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ing 60-1 warp and 60-1 filling, but ing for filling than for warp, although 
would make both yarns from one size there are cloths where the making of 
of roving. This method makes a the same size yarns would give en- 
shorter draft possible for th3 warp, tirely satisfactory results and might 
and increases the cost for warp while aid in reducing the cost beside mak- 
reducing it for filling. If 12 hank be ing a smaller number of roving sizes 
used for both yarns, it is all right for in process. Results desired will gov- 
warp but makes too large a draft for ern the methods employed to a great- 
filling if the best results be desired. er or less extent, and the other cloths 
Where quality filling is necessary being made may also have more or 
it probably is better to use a finer rov- less influence on the policy adopted. 

PATTERN. 
4 4 

60/1 Am. combed warp — 3,560 — = 3,640 ends. 

10 10 

60/1 Am. combed filling. 176 picks. 

45 reed; 40" width in reed, 38%" grey width, 36" finished width. 
100 X 172 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton. Labor, waste, etc. 
60/1 Am. combed warp, 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 24c. 16M.C. = 40%c. 

60/1 Am. combed filling, 1%" sta.; 14 hank dou. rov., 24c. 15 %c. = 39 %c. 

COST. 

3,640 ends 60/1 Am. combed + 3% take-up = .0744 @ 40%c. = $ .0301 

176 picks 60/1 Am. combed = .1397 @ 39%c. = .0555 

Weaving 0226 

Expenses .0258 

$ .1340 
Selling , .0027 

Mill cost $.1367 

Mill selling price (about) $ .1550 

Finishing, dyeing, etc .0150 

Converter's cost $ .1700 

Converter's selling price (about) S .2000 

Jobber's sePing price (about) .2400 

Retail price .3500 

Yards per pound, 4.67 grey. 
1 

Weave twill. 

4 

*-»-*■ 



SILK MIXTURE WAVE CREPE 

There are a number of interesting 
features in the fabric which is being 
considered. These cloths are used 
for a number of purposes, but the 
largest distribution is made for dress 
materials. Usually such materials 
are produced in cotton mills and are 
sold at comparatively low prices when 
the detail necessary in making is con- 
sidered; also, the fact that the warp 
is made entirely of silk yarn which 
creates more or less trouble until 
operatives become used to handling 
the silk yarn. There is a more or 
less regular demand for fabrics of 
this character, but it will be noted 
that the retailer was disposing of quite 
a stock of goods at 22 cents per yard, 



a price which is unusually low and 
which indicates that some previous 
seller offered the cloth at a decided 
loss. Such material is often sold 
through a jobber, and sometimes 
from the converting jobber direct to 
the retailer, and naturally prices will 
vary somewhat, but this fabric can- 
not be sold at 22 cents per yard and 
offer any chance of profits to the 
various sellers. 

Manufacturers seldom make such 
fabrics unless at 

A GREATER OR LESS PROFIT, 
for the goods are made on contract 
and competition is not very kben, so 
it is unlikely that the mill selling 
price was much below 15% cents, and 
it probably was higher than this. 
Then added to this price is the charge 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



277 



for finishing and the profits which us- 
ually go to the sellers of a high-class 
novelty fabric. Under the circum- 
stances it is evident that some con- 
verter held a surplus stock which was 
disposed of at a sacrifice, making a 
low retail price possible. It is prob- 
ably true that silk and cottons such 
as these have been affected more or 
less by the lack of interest in other 
silk and cotton fabrics which were 
killed by certain converters and con- 
verting jobbers a year ago by cutting 
the cloth construction to a point where 
little actual value remained. 



probably most mills using about 22-24. 
We have used 180,000 yards 

AS THE STANDARD 

in obtaining the weights, but this is 
not the theoretical yardage, and is 
used in this size to allow a certain 
amount of protection to cloth maker 
for variation in silk size. This cloth 
is called a serpentine crepe. Con- 
sumers would hardly recognize the 
similarity to many ordinary crepe de 
chines, but the fact is they are very 
similar, sometimes being made of 
identical yarns and with the same 



.;; .- £?£; 



Silk Mixture Wave Crepe. 



The sales of such lines at low prices 
indicate how hard some sellers were 
pinched, for retailers are to-day offer- 
ing certain cloths for 8^ cents in a 
finished and dyed state which cost 
the mill from 13 to 14 cents to pro- 
duce in the grey state, and very many 
others sold at retail the same cloths 
at 12*4 cents per yard. It is believed 
that the development in silk and cot- 
ton has made certain converters much 
more conservative than they have pre- 
viously been. Italian silk is ordinarily 
used in making cloth of this charac- 
ter, and it is seldom finer than 18-20 
and usually coarser than this number, 



cloth construction. The main differ- 
ence can be stated as being one of 
weaving and twists in the yarn, a ser- 
pentine crepe is made from filling 
yarn of one direction of twist, and 
is woven on a regular loom, while a 
crepe de chine is made with yarn of 
two twists and is woven on a box 
loom. Sometimes two picks of one 
twist are placed in the cloth and then 
two picks of the reverse twist are 
woven, and sometimes other arrange- 
ments are made. 

THE DIFFERENCE 

in the finished cloths is expressed by 



278 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



saying that the crepe de chine has 
a more or less regular crepy look, 
while the serpentine crepe has quite 
a heavy wavy appearance. This crepy 
or wavy appearance is obtained 
through the use of hard twist filling 
in both instances. Sometimes single 
yarns are used and in other cases 
yarn of two-ply character is employed. 

The actual filling count is rather 
low, but is high enough to prevent 
bad slipping. Two methods are em- 
ployed in making hard twist two-ply 
yarn for use in these cloths. In one 
process the twisting is done on a 
spinning frame onto enameled bob- 
bins, and all that is necessary to in- 
sure satisfactory weaving is to steam 
the bobbins. This is naturally the 
cheapest method, but when yarn is 
twisted on a regular twister, the bob- 
bins are not usable in a shuttle, so 
the yarn much be spooled, ball warped, 
sized, and quilled before it can be 
used in weaving. When the yarn is 
sized in the second process, and this 
must be done to stop kinks in the 
yarn, it is not necessary to steam to 
set the twist. 

The single hard twist yarn is, of 
course, handled by the first method. 
The standard of twist used in making 
these yarns will vary greatly, due to 
different conditions of making and 
somewhat to the cotton used. A 
smooth long cotton 

WILL REQUIRE LESS TWIST 

than shorter fibres, and the standard 
will usually vary from 6 to 8, but in- 
stances have been noted where as 
high a standard as 10 was used. 
Most yarns have standards of from 
7 to 7V 2 . What this hard twist does 
can be readily noted when the grey 
cloth width and the finished width 
are compared. The original width is 
about 32 inches, while the fabric fin- 
ished is 24 inches. The hard twisted 
yarn will shrink readily when im- 
mersed in hot water, and this accounts 
for the appearance when sold and in- 
dicates how important the factor of 
yarn twist is in such cloths. 

If a standard f 6 acts satisfactorily, 
it is a delibprate waste to urp a high- 
er standard, for it increases the cost 
of production quite rapidly, because 
the ln r ppr the amount of twist the 



smaller the production. Ordinarily, 
the labor cost of such yarn is about 
twice as high as it is on regular warp 
yarn. Some mills merely make the 
crepe through hot water or steam, 
but there are certain other finishers 
who use a mercerizing process to ob- 
tain the same results. There is an 
added attractiveness through mercer- 
izing, but it is sometimes a question 
of getting the cloth as cheaply as 
possible, so this is not done, and it 
has also been true that some finishers 
or converters did not know the proc- 
ess was possible and never asked to 
have it applied. 

Thes fabrics are made with jac- 
quard patterns and also with dobby 
figures, but by far the 

LARGEST PORTION IS MADE 
with plain weaves. Of late, there has 
been a tendency to use heavy silk 
stripes for decorations, but it adds to 
the cost, and for this reason, is objec- 
tionable. Similar lines of fabrics have 
been sold for scarfiugs and have had 
a satisfactory distribution. There is 
one thing which has been true until 
recently regarding the making and 
selling of novelt/ silk and cotton fab- 
rics, and this is that profits have in- 
variably been large. 

Up to a few years ago there were 
only a few mills which cared to use 
such material, net alone because they 
thought its use would create more or 
less trouble, but also because the mak- 
ing of such cloths upsets the mill 
organization. For a fancy mill to 
weave such fabrics it is necessary to 
keen spinning frames idle which have 
previously made warn yarn, and if 
silk firing: be used, filling frames are 
idle. NaturaMy, the carrying charges 
are as latere as if they were in oner- 
ation. and this makps a high nrofit 
imperative, if the making be success- 
ful SomPti^PS a mill c"T1 oppraf.p its 
excess of sninning on yarn for sale 
purposes, hut. inasmuch as no regular 
custom is hpld. prices for yarn under 
such conditions are not so high as 
thev mieht be. 

Cpr+ain instances arp known where 
a mill sold vam at a high price for a 
year or morp. and to keen 

THE WEAVING IN OPERATION, 
accepted orders for silk novelties at 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



279 



a price slightly above cost. Without Naturally, when orders are not in 

doubt, the accepting of orders which large volume, a seller must needs ac- 

continually keeps a novelty mill in c«pt the ones which are offered, but 

balance is one of the most important, much might be done 

L^lLrUrS TZ£ TO IMPROVE THE SITUATION 

which upsets the organization is one when selling conditions are normal, 
of the fruitful sources of lack of It will be noted that this fabric is 
profits and more money can be lost rather light in weight, as most of 
in this manner than can be made up such lines are, and also that the cot- 
trough economical operation. The ton forms over 75 per cent of the total 
art of selling cloth has been responsi- cloth weight. The silk is woven in the 
ble for some of the large successes in gum and very little luster is seen on 
fancy cloth making, and the lack of it the cloth until it is finished. In finish- 
for some of the ( failures. It is be- ing, some of the silk gum is removed, 
lieved that the importance of this the amount depending on various con- 
ability is being forgotten by certain ditions. To obtain the weights of the 
mills who are not considering the s iik and cotton composing the cloth 
long future. and the yards per pound, the process 

The sentiment has been expressed is as follows: 
many times of late that anyone can 

dispose Of Cloth if the quality is right, 3,156 ends -f- 180,000 yards = .0175, warp 

and while this may appear true to an - r/ wei , s h * "'i th ?„ ut J^-up. „„,..„ 

..... , „ .... ' Vc take-up in weaving operation, 

extent, It IS also a tact that Some .0173 -*- .93 = .OI88, warp weight per yard 

sellers know nothing regarding manu- _. of . ? ?0 ™ !I L? / , ?, th -,,, 4 . , 

c l • tu j . ., ... c j 50 picks X 3 3»,i" width in reed X 36 

facturmg or the details thereof, and = 1,662.5 

through this reason sell fabrics which 3C " 

might have been better unsold, as far tj&l* ° f TK pe y ards d = ?om; filling 

as the mill Was concerned. A Seller weight per yard of woven cloth. 

should know what is best for his or- °\ s a s rd + - 0723 = - 0911 ' total weigrht per 

ganization to make and strive to hold 1.0000 V .0911 = 10.98 yards per pound, 
to such fabrics. If selling conditions 

make it imperative to sell other Note that the yards per pound of the 
cloths, or if fashion takes a different 60-2 hard twist is not 25,200, the yard- 
trend, other orders should be taken age ordinarily seen, but 23,000 yards 
to continue a proper balance in manu- per pound, due to the contraction in 
facturing. hard-twisting. 

PATTERN. 
4 4 

23/25 Italian silk — 3.028 — = 3.156 total ends. 

16 16 

60/2 Am. combed hard twist, 50 picks. 

46 reed; 33%" width in reed, 32" grey width, 24" finished width. 
98 X 50 grey count, 131 X 49 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Liabor, Twist- 
Cotton, waste, etc. ing. 
60/2 Am. combed H. T.. 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 24c. 16%c. 8c. = $ 48% 

23/25 Italian silk, ISO.OOO yards per lb. Ready on beams, == 4.35 

COST. 

3,156 ends 23/25 Italian silk + 7% take-up = .0188 @ $4.35 = $ .0818 

50 picks 60/2 Am. combed hard twist = .0723 @ .48% = .0351 

"Weaving ' .0142 

Expenses .0124 

1 - 1435 
Selling .0029 

Mill cost (about) $ .1464 

Price to converter (about) $ .1550 

Finishing, dyeing, etc .0250 

Converter's selling price ^2000 

Jobber's selling price , ],, .2500 

Retail selling price (usual) !3500 

Retail sale price (actual) .2200 



2S0 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ARTIFICIAL SILK STRIPE 
OVERDRESS 

This fabric is one which illustrates 
a number of ideas which are of inter- 
est to-day, not only in regard to the 
cloth construction used, but also in 
connection with its being an imported 
material. In the first place, it can 
be said that there should be more of 
the smaller mills producing fabrics of 



There is a great opportunity for 
small, well-fitted mills to produce just 
such cloths as we are considering, a 
field where competition is not so keen 
and where profits are comparatively 
large. A large mill cannot produce 
such fabrics in small enough quan- 
tity and if they could, the detail of 
so many orders would probably tie up 
a mill. A man of ability in a small 
plant can develop more or less origi- 
nality in cloths, building up a trade 
which want quality fabrics, and are 
willing to pay for them. There is a 
legitimate place in manufacturing for 




Artificial Silk Stripe Overdress. 



this character, or similar ones which 
are in style, and which show a good 
profit, although the orders are small. 
A good many mills, probably most of 
the small domestic ones, trail the 
large operatives, making similar pat- 
terns and competing, or attempting to, 
on prices. Of course, many times small 
mills sell their product in different 
channels and in smaller amounts, 
thereby receiving a 

SOMEWHAT HIGHER PRICE, 

and this is the only reason that they 
can continue in operation and make 
any money. 



a small mill, but it is not in attempt- 
ing to produce styles which large 
plants are running, but rather in the 
making of exclusive fabrics and for 
an exclusive trade. 

Comparatively few of such fabrics 
are produced in domestic mills, but if 
the right methods were pursued, it is 
very likely that the 3 per cent of 
fabrics which are imported of the 
total domestic consumption would 
then be produced in domestic plants 
A large proportion of the cloth which 
is imported is not cloth which enters 
actively into domestic competition; 
that is, it fills a need which mills 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



281 



here either can*ot or do not supply. 
If mills were inclined to develop this 
trade, there would be practically none 
imported, for duties are so greatly in 
excess of necessity that foreign fab- 
rics absolutely could not be sold in 
competition. 

Probably the duty assessed on this 
cloth is as great or greater than the 
entire labor cost of producing, at 
least, in any sized quantities in do- 
mestic mills, and because of the yarns 
used and cloth construction, labor 
cnarges form a large portion of 

THE TOTAL COST 
of production. Naturally, a man oper- 
ating a small mill and making ex- 
clusive fabrics needs to be familiar 
with the various mill processes and 
know how to obtain results in the 
best and most economical manner, 
and not only this, but he must bu 
familiar with the selling end of the 
business and the styles which are 
likely to be used by an exclusive 
trade. It is admitted that men who 
could operate such a business are 
rather scarce, and the ones who are 
able are about all employed in larger 
business. In other words, there are not 
enough capable men for the good of 
the textile trade to-day, but the num- 
bers of trained men are increasing, 
and sooner or later, more of the cloths 
which are now imported will be pro- 
duced. The need for trained oper- 
atives is great, but the need for cap- 
able, trained and original managers 
is greater, and until experience and 
training produce a supply of such 
men, foreign cloths will continue to 
be imported, even with a duty twice 
as high as it is at present. 

Take the cloth we are considering 
and note the ideas used. It has, in 
the first place, the general appearance 
of voile cloths, which are compara- 
tively good sellers to-day, thereby 
bringing the highest rate of profit. It 
is made in such a manner that very 
little of the high-priced material 
which it contains is needed in pro- 
ducing, and it comprises a small 
amount of artificial silk, which gives 
it an exclusive appearance. 

Many similar fabrics, with the ex- 
ception of the silk stripes, are made 



in domestic mills, but it is doubted 
whether they return the profits which 
this cloth would. Possibly, 

DOMESTIC FABRICS 

are not made of quite so fine yarn, 
but for consumers little difference 
could be noted. It is the right intro- 
duction of silk, the right spacing of 
stripes, the difference from other fab- 
rics which makes an exclusive ma- 
terial or style, and contrary to the 
idea of most people, both buyers and 
sellers, such difference consists more 
of small details than it does of any 
great radical difference. We have 
seen designs produced for a certain 
construction which were absolutely 
worthless, and we have seen the same 
designs produced on the sg,me cloth 
construction which compelled admira- 
tion and produced sales. 
. Another illustration of the same re- 
sults follows: On a certain shirting 
fabric much trouble resulted because 
of cloth quality and strength. Instead 
of using better and longer cotton, cir- 
cumstances compelled the attempt to 

USE SHORTER STOCK, 

but along with this shorter stock was 
the use of a better arrangement of 
stripes in the pattern. Entirely dif- 
ferent results were produced, and the 
improvement in cloth appearance was 
noticeable, the buyers being much 
pleased, although they did not know 
that the cloth was actually costing 
one-fourth of a cent less per yard to 
make and would not break so high as 
before. Probably the poor original ap- 
pearance made buyers critical of all 
the items of interest in the cloth, 
while the better arrangement over- 
balanced any minor defects. 

In a cloth such as the one consid- 
ered it is necessary to have 

A LENO EDGE 

along each stripe, so as to keep the 
stripes in their correct positions, and 
to give a clear open space between. 
Because of the crossing which takes 
place on every pick, it is impossible to 
introduce but a comparatively few 
picks into the cloth. Just the right 
number of picks to use for such a fab- 



282 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ric as this can only be determined by 
experimentation. Too many picks 
will cause trouble in weaving, and the 
use of too few will allow much slip- 
ping, spoiling the general effect. 
When more picks are desired, it is 
necessary to have the leno ends work 
so that two picks are in a shed to- 
gether, but this makes an uneven 
cloth, and while this method can be 
used on some fabrics, it would not be 
satisfactory on a cloth similar to sam- 



ordinary dobby pattern were being 
made, and usually a weaver will oper 
ate only one loom. 
This naturally makes the 

COST OF WEAVING 

excessive, nearly one-third of the cost 
of production, and any economies 
which can be made so that a larger 
percentage of production is obtained 
are well worth while. When a net 
profit of one cent per yard on a fab- 






PATTERN. 



70/2 Sea Island combed mercerized... 
120/2 Sea Island combed mercerized.. 
100 denier artificial silk 



2 


























21 


— 






4 




4 








4 




4 




— 1 


1 


1 






4 




1 


— 
2 


1 




4 






11 
1 


16 


X 








102X 














16X 



100/2 Sea Island combed mercerized. 44 picks. 

60 reed; 42" width in reed, 39%" finished width. 

49 X 44 over all finished count. 



896 
636 
40$ 



1,940 



YARNS. 

Labor, waste, 
twisting, 
Cotton. mercerizing, etc. 

70/2 Sea Island combed, 1%" sta. ; 14 hank dou. rov., 28c. 44%c. = $ .72% 

100/2 Sea Island combed, 1%" sta. ; 20 hank dou. rov., 30c. 65c. = .95 

120/2 Sea Island combed, 1%" sta. ; 24 hank dou. rov., 32c. 80c. = 1.12 

100 denier artificial silk, 40,000 yards per lb., = 2.75 

COST. 

824 ends 70/2 combed + 15% take-up = .0329 @ $ .72% = $ .0239 

72 ends 70/2 combed + 4% take-up = .0026 @ .72% = .0019 

636 ends 120/2 combed + 4% take-up = .0131 @ 1.12 = .0147 

408 ends 100 denier artificial silk + 2% take-up = .0104 @ 2.75 = .0286 

44 picks 100/2 combed = .0440 @ .95 = .0418 

Weaving .06^5 

Expenses .0156 

$ .1890 

Finishing, etc .0200 

$ .2090 

Selling .0075 



Retail price, 79c. per yard. 

Retail purchasing price about 50c. per yard. 

English mill price probably less than 30c. per yard. 

Import duty about 13c. 

Yards per pound, 9.71. 



$ .2165 



pie. In making a fabric such as this 
one, it is likely that a 50-reed was 
used, with four ends for each stripe 
and six dents for each open space. 
If a 50-reed was too fine to allow 
satisfactory weaving, a 25-reed could 
be used with two dents for each stripe 
and three dents for each open space, 
but probably this is not necessary. 
Because of the nature of the cloth, the 
loom speed is not so high as if an 



ric of this nature will return a net 
profit of about $100 per loom per year 
with a comparatively low weaving 
production, it can be seen that care 
should result in a good profit, espe- 
cially when such large opportunities 
are offered. It is a very good plan 
when such fabrics as these are being 
made to take the very best and most 
reliable weavers obtainable and put 
on looms producing this cloth, paying 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



283 



them a good salary rather than a 
price per piece. 

SMALL NUMBER OF SECONDS. 

Under such an arrangement the best 
quality of cloth will be made, and 
production will be at the highest 
point, a small loss through seconds 
being noted. The leno weave used is 
the ordinary gauge one, with the 
crossing thread changing every pick, 
and as this has been taken up in de- 
tail at other times no lurther ex- 
planation is needed. One other fea- 
ture of this cloth is the size and kind 
of yarn used. Few mills in the do- 
mestic market would make thret 
kinds of two-ply yarn when making 
such a fabric. In the cotton staple 
used for the various sizes we have 
used a staple longer than the yarn 
sizes require, unless they are to be 
mercerized; that is, 70-1 or 70-2 ordi- 
narily would be made of l|-inch cot- 
ton, or even less. Only for special 
purposes would cotton longer than 
this be used for the above yarn size. 
Good yarn is very essential for the 
making of a fabric in which the yarn 
shows so clearly, and yarns of this 
character are usually gassed. This 
singes off the fibres which protrude 
giving a round, rod-like appearance. 

Through the use of 

LONGER STAPLE COTTON 

the twist per inch can be reduced 
somewhat over the ordinary amount, 
thus giving better results when the 
yarn is mercerized. Yarn improve- 
ment has been steady for the past 
five years in domestic mills, this be- 
ing brought about through necessity 
We have seen single-yarn fabricr 
made in domestic mills somewhat 
similar to sample, and which com- 
pared very favorably indeed wher 
price was considered. Then this cloth 
has used artificial silk for the stripes, 
which largely give it its char- 
acter. No objection of any magnitude 
can be offered when this material i? 
used in such a manner. The cotton 
yarn gives all the strength necessary 
and will hold the artificial silk even 
when soaked continually in water 



The luster is one of the large reasons 
why the cloth is attractive. 

WEAVING MORE DIFFICULT. 

Possibly one reason why mills here 
have not used it is because of its rub- 
bing and breaking in weaving. Of 
course, it is more satisfactory when 
used in coarse count cloth, but future 
use will surely be large. Anything 
which causes a lot of trouble or which 
makes loom production small is avoid- 
ed by domestic mills. The large use 
which is taking place in foreign mills 
is clearly illustrated in the importa- 
tion of voile cloths. 

824 ends -f- (70/2 X 840) = .0280, weight 
of 70/2 leno yarn without take-up. 

15% take-up in weaving. 

.02S0 -=- .85 = .0329, total weight of 70/2 
leno yarn. 

72 ends -=- (70/2 X 840) = .0024, weight of 
70/2 selvage yarn without take-up. 

4% take-up in weaving. 

.0024 -=- .96 = .0026, weight of 70/2 selvage 
yarn. 

636 ends h- (120/2 X 840) = .0126, weight 
of 120/2 yarn without take-up. 

i% take-up in weaving. 

.0126 -h .96 = .0131, total weight of 120/2 
yarn. 

40S ends -¥■ 40,000 yards silk = .0102, weight 
of artificial silk without take-up. 

2% take-up in weaving. 

.0102 h- .98 = .0104, total weight of arti- 
ficial silk. 

44 picks X 42" reed width X 36" 

— = 1.84S 

36" 

yards of filling yarn per yard of cloth. 
1,848 -f- (100/2 X 840) = .0440. weight of 

100/2 filling. 
.0329 + .0026 + .0131 + .0140 + .0440 = 

.1030, total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -f- .1030 = 9.71 yards per pound. 



FAST COLOR, MERCERIZED 
JACQUARD SHIRTING 

During the past few years there has 
appeared on the market various new 
fabrics which have been made pos- 
sible through some improvement of 
manufacturing or finishing. This cloth 
is one of an imported line, and the 
reason we have presented it is as much 
because of the price as because of its 
novel features. It would seem as if 
there was a large enough demand for 
exclusive styles to make it possible 
for domestic mills to produce and sell 
them and still have no friction be- 



284 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tween the various buyers through hav- 
ing the same styles. 

It is possible to purchase as small 
an amount 

AS 250 PIECES . 
of such a style as the one considered 
and if a trip through some of the ex- 
clusive stores shows anything it is 
that many lines might be purchased 
with less chance of overlapping on 
styles than is now noted from domes- 
tic mills. In our cost we have given 
high ranges of profit, and it is very 



the slack times which are customary 
every few years? The old idea which 
was held in past years that domestic 
cloth was 

NOT SO GOOD AS IMPORTED 
material has been proven time and 
again to be false when the actual facts 
have been obtained, and in this indi- 
vidual instance it can be said that 
any one of a dozen mills in the do 
mestic market could and would pro- 
duce a cloth as good as that analyzed, 
and various finishing plants are em- 



1 



i iiMLiL 



1 





Fast Color, Mercerized Jacquard Shirting. 



likely that this cloth could be made 
in the exact construction so as to be 
sold at retail for 35 or 39 cents in- 
stead of the 45 cents which we have 
given. The retail price actually is 55 
cents, and shows how much the con- 
sumer pays extra just because the 
pattern is exclusive. Leaving out the 
question of price to consumer entire- 
ly, is it not worth while to make it 
possible for domestic mills to producr 
the material which is purchased 
abroad? 

If a large portion of the cloth now 
purchased of foreign countries was 
made in domestic mills, would not the 
added orders make a better balance in 
the operation and eliminate some of 



inently able to finish such materials 
of domestic manufacture. 

The facts are that there are many 
retail buyers who go abroad and pur- 
chase cloth which could be obtained 
in the domestic market, let alone men- 
tioning the savings which might be 
effected in price. Of course, there are 
some buyers who are capable men and 
understand cloth and something re- 
garding its manufacture and construc- 
tion, but many of them invariably get 
stuck and the only thing which saves 
the situation is the fact that excessive 
profits are possible. Probably the one 
large reason why some of the big re- 
tailers, who do converting for them- 
selves, started into the business was 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



285 



because they could produce styles 
which equalled or surpassed many im- 
ported lines and at a large saving in 
price. Many of such styles were sold 
as imported lines, but nevertheless 
they helped domestic mills, for it 
acted as an incentive toward the mak- 
ing of newer and better cloths. 
Without any question probably 75 per 
cent of the fancy cotton cloth now 
imported could be made so as to be 
sold at a lower price to consumers in 
the domestic mills. 

MORE CO-OPERATION. 

A little more co-operation between 
buyers and sellers in the domestic 
market and more confidence in do- 
mestic styles would work wonders in 
this direction. Altogether too much 
dependence has been placed on foreign 
styling, as contrasted with that in do- 
mestic mills, and while each country 
has much to learn from the otiiers, 
conditions are developing which make 
it rather impracticable to follow styles 
too closely. Large buyers are hurting 
manufacturers when they purchase 
fabrics which could have been made 
in domestic mills. If there were but 
lew instances where cloth purchased 
in foreign markets could be made in 
domestic mills, little attention would 
be necessary, but this is not true, and 
much of the cloth purchased does not 
need to be. There is, of course, a 
certain amount of blame to be at- 
tached to domestic mills or converters 
for not going more strongly after this 
exclusive trade, but in grey goods 
mills, in which the sample and sim- 
ilar cloths are produced, the patterns 
and constructions are developed by 
buyers, and mills merely produce what 
buyers ask for. The same amount 
of zeal used among domestic sellers, 
which some buyers are accustomed 
to use in foreign markets, would make 
much more possible in the making of 
novelty fabrics. 

Various interesting details are nec- 
essary in the production of a fabric of 
this character. In the first place, 
three beams are necessary to produce 
the cloth satisfactorily. One of these 
beams contains the ground yarn, a 
second the colored yarn, which takes 



up less in weaving, while the third 
carries the yarn which composes the 
cords. The fabric is woven in the grey 
state excepting the yarn which com- 
poses the colored stripes, which are 
of color fast to the bleaching process. 
In the analysis, we noted the fact that 
the cloth was woven on a 600-jac- 
quard loom, and with three repeats 
of the pattern to every repeat of the 
machine tie-up. Usually, in making up 
patterns of this character, the mill 

HAS TO VARY THE DESIGN 

to suit the tie-up of its looms; that 
is, if a pattern was drawn by a buy- 
er to be, say, 2 1-3 inches wide, and 
a mill contained looms with a 5-inch 
tie-up, it would be necessary to use 
two repeats in the machine, giving a 
width in the reed of about 2y 2 inches, 
or if the pattern was drawn iy 2 inches 
wide, it would be necessary to use 
three repeats, giving a reed width of 
12-3 inches, instead of 1V 2 inches; 
also, if a pattern was drawn 4 inches 
wide it would be necessary to readjust 
it, making 5 inches the reed width. 
Many 600-jacquard looms are tied up 
120 hooks per inch, giving a reed 
width of 5 inches, and unquestionably 
this pattern is made on such a ma- 
chine. 

600 machine -4- 120 hooks or threads per 
inch = 5 reed width. 

There are exactly 600 threads used 
in the machine or total pattern repeat 
and, therefore, no hooks are cast out 
A fault which is present in the pattern 
as woven, although one which few 
consumers would detect, is the fact 
that there are silk threads of ground 
yarn 

BETWEEN COLOR AND CORD 

on one side of the stripe, while there 
are 8 ground threads on the opposite 
side of the stripe. This gives a slight- 
ly unbalanced pattern, but it was evi- 
dently a mistake of the designer rath- 
er than the weaver, for it appears reg- 
ularly throughout the cloth width. 
This fabric is a much higher count 
cloth than is ordinarily seen in shirt- 
ing lines, and the yarns are finer than 
many use, but similar fabrics with 



286 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



even finer yarns are made in quanti- 
ties in domestic mills. 

One feature of the cloth is that it 
has filling of soft twist yarn, so as to 
givd a better result when finished. The 
use of soft twist yarn aids, because 
the cotton fibres lie more nearly par- 
allel, and when the fabric is mercer- 
ized, these fibres reflect the light bet- 
ter, giving a higher luster. In making 
soft twist filling it is customary to use 
a longer staple than if ordinary yarn 



is usually about 3 for ring frames, 
but cases have been known where the 
standard was as low as 2 1 / 4 on rather 
coarse yarn and with especially long 
cotton, although this is seldom seen 
The standards for mule twist ar< 
somewhat less than for ring frames, 
but probably 2% to 3 represents the 
majority. The amount of twist will 
depend a whole lot on the cotton be- 
ing used and the kind of cloth being 
made. 



60/1 Am. combed grey 14$ 

60/1 Am. combed colored 

40/2 Am. combed grey ] 



60/1 Am. combed filling, soft twist, 116 picks. 

60 reed, Z5V 3 " width in reed, 32y 2 " grey width, 32" finished width. 
128 X 116 grey count, 134 X 113 finished count. 




3,742 
336 
210 



60/1 Am. comb, warp, 1%" sta. ; 12 hank dou. rov., 
60/1 Am. comb, col., 1%" sta. ; 12 hank dou. rov., 
40/2 Am. comb, warp, l%"sta. ; 8 hank dou. rov., 
60/1 Am. comb, filling, 1%" sta. ; 14 hank dou. rov., 



Cot- 



Labor, Twist- 



ton, waste, etc. 

24c. 16 %c. 

24c. 16%c. 

20c. lOVfcc 

24c. 15%c. 



ing. Dyeing. 

16c. 



40V4c. 
56VzC. 
32 %c. 
39%c. 



COST. 

3,742 ends 60/1 Am. combed + 10% take-up = .0824 @ 40%c. = $ .0334 

336 ends 60/1 Am. combed + S% take-up = .0073 @ 56%c. = .0041 

210 ends 40/2 Am. combed + 2% take-up = .012S @ 32%c. = .0041 

116 picks 60/1 A.m. combed = .0S13 @ 39%c. = .0323 

Weaving 0392 

Expenses .0376 

$ .1507 
Selling 0030 

Mill cost $.1537 

Mill selling price (about> $ .1750 

Finishing, snercerizing, etc .0150 

$ .1900 

Converter's selling price $ .2500 

Jobber's selling price .3000 

Retailer's selling price .4500 

Yards per pound, 5.44 grey. 

Made on a 600-jacquard loom, 3 repeats per section. 



were being made, for inasmuch as 
there is a smaller amount of twist a 
longer length of fibre is necessary to 
give sufficient strength to weave or 
to mercerize. Take the cloth we ar 
considering and 

IT WILL BE NOTED 

that lg-inch staple was used for warp 
and filling. If this filling were nol 
made soft twist it is very likely that 
cotton not over VA inches would have 
been used. The standard of twist used 



Very often designs are planned so 
that the cloth must be made to one 
side of the jacquard tie-up, or, in other 
words, 

THERE IS A WIDER SPACE 

between the shuttle box and cloth on 
one side than there is on the other. 
Where there are a number of pattern 
repeats in each 600 hooks little trouble 
will result, because a wide variation 
cannot occur, but with only one stripe 
to a pattern, or rather to the 600 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



287 



hooks, sometimes bad weaving will 
result and often the design has to be 
repainted To give the best place in 
the tie-up to weave this fabric the 
problem would be as follows: There 
are 4,192 ends in the warp, exclud- 
ing the selvages, which are worked 
separately, and as most jacquards of 
this kind are tied up 40 inches wide, 
we will assume that such was the 
case with this cloth. 

120 ends per inch X 40" = 4,800, total har- 
ness in tie-up. 
4,800 — 4,192 = 608, total harness not used. 
608 h- 2 = 304, each side not used. 

As 600 machines have 12 hooks in a 
row, we have 

304 -=- 12 = 25 rows + 4 hooks. 

In other words, to make the cloth 
in the center of the tie-up we would 
not start to draw in warp yarn until 
the 5th hook on row 26 in the ma- 
chine in section No. 1 of the jacquard 
tie-up, and when we had drawn in all 
the ends we would find that the last 
thread would be drawn on the 8th 
hook in row 25 in section No. 8. As 
one section takes 5 inches, the total 
width, or 40 inches, would give 8 sec- 
tions. 

Of course, this layout is rather sim- 
ple, but when patterns are 

MORE COMPLICATED 

and there is a large and varying cast 
out the problem is not so easy, but if 
made out correctly at first no subse- 
quent changes are necessary. It 
should be as common a practice to 
balance jacquard patterns as it is 
dobbies, but, unfortunately, it is not, 
and much improvement might be 
made even in. many of the dobby pat- 
terns which are sold. 

Mills making fabrics of this char- 
acter seldom dye their yarn, for one 
reason that they could not do it as 
successfully as those now doing it, for 
another reason each contains rather 
small quantities, making a small 
amount necessary, and as the mills 
irake a large proportion of grey cloth, 
the expense would be high, probably 
higher than the present cost, and with 
no outlay for a dyehouse to increase 
the capital aecessary. There is no 



question, however, but that many new 
lines will be produced. 
One year ago was 

PROBABLY THE EARLIEST 

any of these lines were sold by re- 
tailers in quantities, and most of the 
fabrics offered were lots left from va- 
rious shirt makers, and patterns were 
not entirely suitable, but there is a 
future in this direction. The weights 
of the yarns and cloth are obtained 
as follows: 

3,742 ends -4- (60/1 X 840) = .0742, weight 

of 60/1 grey without take-up. 
10% take-up in weaving. 
.0742 -4- 9 = .0S24, total weight per yard 

of 60/1 grey warp. 
336 ends -t- (60/1 X 840) = .0067, weight 

of 6 0/1 colored without take-up. 
8% take-up in weaving. 
.0067 -4- .92 == .0073, total weight per yard 

of 60/1 colored warp. 
210 ends -h (40/2 X 840) = .0125, weight of 

40/2 grey without take-up. 
2% take-up in weaving. 
.0125 -h .92 = .0128, total weight per yard 

of 40/2 grey warp. 
116 picks X 35%" reed width X 36" 

= 4,099 

36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
4,099 H- (60/1 X 840) = .0S13, total weight 

per yard of 60/1 filling. 
.0824 -)- .0073 + .0128 + .0813 = .1838, 

total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -5- .1838 = 5.44 yards per lb. grey. 



FLANNELETTE NOVELTY 

One of the most interesting and 
also one of the largest used fabrics 
is that class ordinarily known as 
flannelette. In general this class 
could be said to contain any kind of 
cloth made of cotton which is napped 
on both sides, and used for ordinary 
purposes, such as kimonos, night- 
gowns, coverings, and very many oth- 
er purposes. The present season has 
seen a large demand for all kinds 
of cloth of this character, and prices 
might be called high, and profits 
should be exceedingly satisfactory to 
mills producing them. Cloth of this 
character is made in white and 
solid colors, in woven stripes, in 
checks and in a great variety of 
printed patterns. Usually such fab- 
rics would be considered rather heavy 
in weight, for the yarns used are sel- 
dom finer than 30s in the warp and 
16s in the filling. The reason the fill- 



288 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



lng is heavier than the warp is be- 
cause of the napping operation. 

In napping such fabrics as the ones 
considered, the machinery which ac- 
complishes the purpose does it as the 
cloth is moving quite rapidly through 
the machine, and naturally it would 
affect the filling yarn. To give suf- 
ficient strength to make the cloth a 
satisfactory article it is, therefore, 
necessary to make the filling heavy 
enough to stand the napping operation 
and give satisfactory service after- 
ward. One reason, in addition, why 
this is necessary is that warp yarn 
has to have a larger amount of twist 



fabrics in recent years. They used 
to be made of yarn dyed after it was 
spun, and this process is employed 
to-day to an extent, but many mills 
now make their fabrics of yarn made 
from dyed cotton. This has been done 
without question in the fabric being 
considered. The white cotton in such 
fabrics is bleached before being spun, 
and while this is objectionable, inas- 
much as the whites are not so clear 
as if the cloth was bleached after be- 
ing woven, the results are satisfactory 
in practically all instances 

In the cloth being considered there 
are a number of features not com- 




Flannelette Novelty. 



in proportion than does filling yarn, 
because it has to stand the strain of 
weaving, and filling can be soft twist- 
ed with much less difficulty in 
weaving. It is also customary in mak- 
ing this kind of cloth to use plain 
weave. This is done for these two 
reasons: The first because the nap- 
ping operations largely cover up any 
weave in the cloth, ana secona, be- 
cause plain weave binds in the tnreads 
better and makes stronger cloth. 
YARNS USED. 
There has been quite a good deal 
of improvement in the making of such 



mon In cloth of this character. In the 
first place it is woven on a box loom, 
and while quite a few patterns are 
made in this manner, the large ma- 
jority of them are not made on this 
kind of a loom. In the second place 
the fabric contains novelty yarn, in 
addition to being woven on the box 
loom, and because this yarn is sel- 
dom seen in cloth of this character 
it may be well to explain the method 
of making. 

NOVELTY YARN. 
To produce such a yarn compara- 
tively few changes are necessary In 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



289 



ordinary machines, although there are 
special machines sold for accom- 
plishing such results. The yarn is 
composed 01 two tnus of 2us yarn for 
ground, and so far as this part of the 
result is concerned, it is no different 
than the making of ordinary 20-2 ply, 
but in addition there is introduced 
into the yarn, about every four and 
one-half inches, a bunch of another 
color of cotton. To produce this, 
there must be an extra set of rolls, 
either on the twister, if it be made 
on a novelty twister, or on the frame 
which produces the yarn. This extra 
set of rolls has an intermittent mo- 
tion forwarding the amount of dyed 
roving necessary and spacing it at 
the desired lengths. This roving is 
Introduced between the two ends of 
20-1 yarn, when the twisting operation 
is taking place, and 20-1 yarn twists 
around the roving, making the bunch 
firm and capable of being woven. 
Such yarn does not always weave 
well, and in this identical cloth the 
yarn in the warp is drawn in a single 
end in a dent, instead of two ends, 
as is the case in the rest of the cloth. 
This process ahows a larger amount 
of space, and is not liable to create 
a great amount of rubbing to spoil the 
nub. 

AUTOMATIC LOOMS. 

A few years ago practically all of 
such fabrics were woven on ordinary 
plain looms, with no stop motions at- 
tached and nonautomatic in any way. 
To-day, many of such fabrics are 
made on automatic looms, that is, 
the ones which are made of solid col- 
or and with striped patterns, al- 
though only few checked paterns are 
made in this manner. A good many 
looms, if they do not have the auto- 
matic changing arrangement, have 
some kind of a stop motion for the 
warp yarn which makes it possible 
for a weaver to produce more first 
quality material. Practically all of 
such cloths are made in the older 
style of mills, and are finished when 
they are delivered by the mill. The 
cloth constructions all vary, and 
probably no two mills produce iden- 
tical fabrics, although cloth weights 
mav be somewhat similar. 

The yarns used and the cloth con- 



struction are ones which each mill 
has developed, and which is probably 
more economical for them than any 
other. The large amount of orders 
allows mills to make these construc- 
tions continuously, with very few 
changes taking place, the yarns being 
the same size from year to year, and 
the cloth remaining practically the 
same. It is also even true that cloth 
prices vary la comparatively small 
amounts. This is done so that the 
various sellers may retail the cloth 
at a certain price. This method 
makes it necessary to have a com- 
paratively high price some years, in 
comparison to the cost of producing, 
while at other times the selling price 
shows a rather small profit. 

PROFITS AND COSTS. 

In most instances the cost of pro- 
ducing a fabric of this character 
would be somewhere about 25 to 26 
cents a pound. If a plain cloth be 
considered the cost would be less, 
while if a novelty cloth be wanted it 
would be more. The cloth considered 
has a higher price than most of such 
materials, because it has such a nov- 
elty construction. One fact in this 
connection is that all styles are sold 
at practically the same price, and while 
the average sale may show a good 
profit, there will be certain cloths in 
the lot which are sold that will show 
a very high profit, while others will 
show a smaller one, the amount de- 
pending on the cloth construction. A 
comparatively easy method of obtain- 
ing the cost per yard is to find the 
weight of the fabrics as woven, and 
dividing by the amount previously 
stated as the cost per pound. This is 
not only approximate, but is some- 
times of value. 

Another thing which few buyers 
consider regarding various cloths is 
the fair mill profits. Such a cloth as 
we are considering has a rather small 
number of picks per inch. If another 
cloth be considered with twice the 
number of picks per inch, the profit 
per yard should be twice as high as 
for the cloth considered, or approxi- 
mated so, and a cent a yard profit on 
the cloth being considered would mean 
a profit each week per loom of from 
$2.25 to $2.50, or a profit per year of 



290 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



about $125 a loom. This is evidently 
a very good return on the capital nec- 
essary in building a mill to produce 
cloth of this character. 

CLOTH WEIGHT. 

One other feature in these cloths is 
the different appearance of the fabric 
when woven and when sold, which is 
due to the napping operation. It is, 
however, true that the fuzz, which 
appears on the face of the cloth, 
wears off rather easily, and in this 
way, the material does not give the 
best of satisfaction, although it an- 
swers the purpose fairly well. It will 
be evident from an examination of 
the cloth that there must be a loss in 
weight when the cloth is napped. The 
amount lost will depend a good deal 
on the fabric and on the amount of 
the napping operation, but it is likely 
that in a cloth of this character the 
filling yarn will lose as much as 15 
per cent, or even more, in weight. By 
pulling out a few threads it will be 
seen that the warp has been affected 
very little, the yarn appearing prac- 
tically the same as it would have if 
no napping had been employed. Or- 
dinarily, fabrics of this nature are 
heavier than five yards per pound, 
and on the finer weights the napping 
operation might make the cloth from 
one-half to three-quarters of a yard 
lighter than it was when woven. 

PRINTED FABRICS. 

In general it can be said that pat- 
terns made by printing are not nearly 
as satisfactory as if they were woven, 
for the colors do not penetrate 
through the cloth, and when the nap 
wears off, which it partially, does, at 
least, its color appears lighter than 
it otherwise would. The patterns are 
engraved upon copper printing rolls 
the same as they are for the patterns 
used on dimities, lawns and other 
printed cloths, but it is customary, 
after the fabric has been printed, to 
give it a very light run on the napping 
machine to raise the fibre, which has 
been laid down in the printing oper- 
ation, and to give the cloth a smooth- 
er appearance. Of course, when fab- 
rics are made in printed patterns it 



is seldom that anything but white 
flannelette is used, although the 
ground of the cloth may be given a 
solid color by the printing operation. 

COTTON USED. 

In making cloth of this character, it 
is customary to use cotton of rather 
short staple, in most cases being 
one inch or about that amount in 
length. This is done because coarse 
yarns are used, and the napping oper- 
ation breaks the fibres a good deal, 
and it would be an uneconomical 
method to use high-priced cotton for 
such a purpose. It is also possible 
to use waste of various kinds in mak- 
ing yarn of this character, and it is 
usually done. One great necessity in 
making even yarn for the production 
of such cloths is to have the cotton 
mixed as well as possible before using 
in the pickers. This is usually done 
by running quite a large amount of 
cotton through the bale breaker and 
allowing it to stand, and when placed 
in the picker, instead of taking the 
cotton from the top of the pile and 
working down, it is taken from the 
edge and in this manner a more aver- 
age quality is obtained, which neces- 
sarily results in more even yarn. 

Southern mills have not gone into 
making fabrics of this nature as 
largely as they have into ginghams, 
possibly because the market is more 
concentrated on such fabrics, and 
because Northern mills have special- 
ized in this direction and have kept 
fairly well up-to-date. It is also true 
that the large number of printed 
cloths used has kept Northern mills 
working on these fabrics because 
there are no plants in the South which 
make printed patterns of any kind, 
and the base of supply is so far from 
the finishing plant that the cost of 
shipping introduces an obstacle to 
their expense of making, althouga 
there are a good many woven fabrics 
of this nature now being produced in 
that locality. Most of the cloth sold 
is of rather narrow width, In few 
cases being more than 30 inches, and 
in the large majority of instances it 
is about 27 inches wide finished. Be- 
cause of the napping operation the 
shrinkage of the cloth width is more 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



291 



than it would be on similar cloths, but 
not happed. 

YARN AND CLOTH WEIGHTS. 

In analyzing a fabric of this char- 
acter, 1 o general rules can be given. 
It is likely that in the majority of 
cases the warp yarn would be about 
10 per cent finer than when spun 
either from the stretching, washing 
or the other operations employed, 
that is, if a yarn was spun 20s it 
might be about 22s in the cloth when 
sold. For the filling the amount of 
loss will vary, but in this individual 
case the loss was about 20 per cent. 
Naturally the cloth weight when sold 
would be lighter than when woven, 
but inasmuch as mills have to use the 
material to produce the cloth, and be- 
cause little return is obtained for the 
loss made in napping, it can be said 
that the best method to consider such 
cloth is as it comes from the loom. 

To illustrate the cloth in question 
we present the weights of the various 
yarns and the method of obtaining 
them. In very many instances the 



yarns are not separated as we have 
done, and they are all used together 
at an average price: 

1,346 ends -§- (20/1 X 840) = .0801, weight 

of white yarn without take-up. 
.0801 ~- .96 = .0S52, total weight of white 

warp. 
114 ends -^- (20/1 X 840) = .0067, weight 

of pink yarn without take-up. 
.0067 -h .96 = .0072, total weight of pink 

warp. 
34 ends ■*- (6 novelty X 840) = .0067, weight 

of novelty yarn without take-up. 
.0067 -=- .96 = .0072, total weight of novelty 

warp. 
41.8 picks X 30%" reed width X 36" 

— = 1,264.45 

36" 

yards of white filling per yard. 
3.9 picks X 30%" reed width X 36" 



= 69.57 



yards of pink filling per yard. 
2.3 picks X 30%" reed width X 36" 

36" 

yards of novelty filling per yard. 
1,264.45 -f- (9%/l X 840) = .1585, total 

weight white filling per yard. 
117.95 h- (9%/l X 840) = .0148, total 

weight pink filling per yard. 
69.57 h- (6 novelty X 840) = .0138, total 

weight novelty filling per yard. 
.0S52 + .0072 + .0072 + .1585 + .0148 + 

.0138 = .2867, total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -=- .2867 = 3.49 yards per pound, as 

woven. 



WARP PATTERN. 



20/1 Am. carded white. 



20/1 Am. carded colored. 
6 novelty twist 



301 


12 


1 
112 




44 




6 




14 


2 




l| 


2 




1 




1 





I I I I 21 

12| 1281— 



= 114 
= 34 



11X 

FILLING PATTERN. 

9% Am. carded white I 42 I I 12 I I 12 

9% Am. carded colored 2 

6 novelty twist I ' | 2 | 



= 108 
= 10 
= 6 



25 reed; 30%" width in reed, 26%" finished width. 
56 X 46 finished count. 



YARNS. 



20/1 A.m. carded white, 
20/1 Am. carded colored, 
9%/l Am. carded white, 



Cotton. 
12%c. 
12%c. 
12 %c 
12 %c. 
12 %c. 



1" sta. ; 4 hank dou. rov., 
1" sta.; 4 hank dou. rov., 
1" sta. ; 2% hank dou. rov., 
9%/l Am. carded colored, 1" sta. ; 2% hank dou. rov., 
6 novelty twist, made of 20/1 and dyed roving, 

COST. 

1,346 ends 20/1 Am. carded -f 6% take-up 

114 ends 20/1 Am. carded + 6% take-up 

34 ends novelty twist -j- 6% take-up 

41.8 picks 9%/l Am. carded 

3.9 picks 9 y 2 /l Am. carded 

2.3 picks novelty twist 

Weaving 

Expenses 



Labor, waste, etc. 

7%c. = 19%c. 

8%c. = 21c. 

6c. = 18%c. 

7%c. = 19%c. 

ll%c. = 24c. 



.0852 @ 19%c. 

.0072 @ 21c. 

.0072 @ 24e. 

.1585 @ 18%c. 

.0148 @ 19%c. 

.0138 @ 24c. 



Napping, finishing, etc. 
Selling 



Loom yards per pound. 3.49. Cost per pound, 27.29c. 
Finished yards about 4.25 per pound. 
Retail price 16 c. per yard. 



$ .0168 
.0015 
.0017 
.0293 
.0029 
.0033 
.0065 
.0087 

$ .0707 
.0040 

$ .0747 
.0035 

$ .0783 



292 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



PLAIN WARP COTTON EPONGE 

During the past year or so, there 
has been quite a number of new fab- 
rics produced for sale. Of these mate- 
rials, rating has probably been the 
one which has created the largest 
amount of interest. One year ago 
many styles were produced, and there 
was a moderate amount of buying, but 
then there appeared to be a partial 
slump in the demand, with sellers ex- 



in quantities until consumers have 
been educated up to the cloth, and 
this is a rather slow process. The 
making of styles in various materials 
also helps a great deal, and it is very 
likely that the sale in cotton would 
have continued smaller except for the 
increased interest in wool and silk. 
The idea expressed in the cloth con- 
struction is not new, for styles have 
been produced at various times in re- 
cent years which are practically 
identical with the styles now offer- 




II., AV/.L■!«! , *!ftV" ,, ■ ,, tl■ 1 *'»'•"» , ^.* , *»i , *'•"*'* , '■" , "<*"**"">^• , :«»*■««#»•*•» ■••«»*u.i*-t*'»n»>*M) 



Plain Warp Cotton Eponge. 



pecting that no large future opera- 
tions would take place. During this 
same time, however, fabrics of this 
nature have been produced in quite 
large quantities in wool and combi- 
nations of wool and cotton, and also 
in silk, and it is freely admitted that 
the sale now is larger than it ever 
has been in the past. There is this 
to be said of any cloth which has as 
great a novelty character as rating 
regarding the sale. Interest in such 
fabrics does not develop all at once, 
but it is the continual presentation 
of styles and interest among the trade 
which makes a large sale possible. 
Buyers will not purchase such cloths 



ed, but at that time there was no 
demand for such cloth, and the sales 
were of comparatively small propor- 
tions. 

FACTS REGARDING CLOTH. 

In the past we have analyzed a 
number of the more expensive cotton 
fabrics of ratine construction, but in 
the fabric now presented we give an 
analysis of one of the cheaper grades 
which is a development from such 
cloths. This cloth is without doubt 
the largest selling cotton rating in 
the cotton goods market, and in con- 
nection with this fact, there are a 
number of interesting items which 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



*M 



we will take up in the analysis of 
it. It is produced by the Manville 
Company and is sold by George B. 
Duren & Sons, New York City. The 
cost at retail is 25 cents a yard 
and it is sold by jobbers at a price 
to allow the regular retail profits and 
at a price to the jobbers to allow them 
their profits also. The profits of the 
makers of this cloth will be taken up 
in detail later. Fabrics of this char- 
acter are used for very many purposes, 
such as dresses, waists, trimmings, 
hats, coverings, men's vests, and very 
many other purposes, which do not 
have such great importance. 

YARNS. 

Quite a good deal of ingenuity has 
been used in the making of this fab- 
ric, the ratine effect not being produc- 
ed by both warp and filling, as in 
many of the previous samples sold, 
but by the filling alone. Tne warp is 
made of plain dyed yarn, no different 
in character from that used for many 
of the ordinary dyed fabrics which 
have a wide sale. In this individual 
fabric the effect produced is made by 
the difference in color between warp 
and filling and by the novelty charac- 
ter of the filling yarn. This novelty fill- 
ing is not made like many of the 
yarns composing ratine cloth, but it is 
what might be called a nub yarn. 
Many of the earlier fabrics of ratine 
constructions were made of loop 
yarns. The cloth count is very low, 
although, because of the heavy char- 
acter of the filling and because of the 
yarn roughness, the cloth has a com- 
paratively firm texture. The count 
is 66 in the warp and 24 in the fill- 
ing in the finished cloth. In regard 
to the novelty yarn, it can be said 
that two twisting operations are nec- 
essary, the second one being for the 
purpose of binding the previously 
produced yarn so that it can be wo- 
ven. Fabrics of this character have 
been made in quite large quantities in 
the past, but the larger share of them 
have been composed wholly of grey 
yarn, and naturally, they do not show 
the novelty character which this 
cloth does. The warp take-up is 
somewhat greater than would be not- 



ed in an ordinary fabric, this being 
brought about throigh the heavy 
size of the filling, which lies practi- 
cally straight in the cloth. This heavy 
filling also makes it unnecessary 
when weaving to have the cloth so 
wide in the reed as if a gingham 
were being made. 

METHOD OF FINDING YARN SIZES. 

Of course, the problem of finding 
the warp size is a rather simple one, 
because the yarn is only ordinary 
yarn, and if a few ends be taken from 
the cloth and sized in the ordinary 
manner, the yarn size anl weights 
can be obtained. This process can 
also be adopted regarding the filling 
yarn, and it will give the ultimate 
size when the yarn is made up. It 
does not, however, give the sizes of 
the yarns which compose the thread 
when woven. There are a number of 
methods by which such yarn size can 
be figured, so as to check up the 
yarns used, and the ultimate size. 
Possibly, the clearest method is to 
find the take-ups on the three yarns 
which compose the finished novelty. 
The take-ups are found in the fol- 
lowing manner: If the threads which 
compose the yarns be pulled apart, 
their lengths being measured careful- 
ly, the take-ups will be as follows: 
Figuring that the novelty yarn is 
3 15-16 inches, as taken froiu the 
cloth, the last binder thread which is 
twisted to hold the nubs in place 
would be four inches in length, the 
ground thread on which the nub is 
made is 4| inches in length, and the 
yarn which composes the nub would 
be 8% inches in length. The take-ups 
would be 2 per cent for the binder, 15 
per cent for the ground yarn and 55 
per cent for the nub yarn. 

4.00 = about .98 or 2% take-up. 
4.625 = about .85 or 15% take-up 
8.75 = about .45 or 55% take-up 

When this has been accomplished, 
the yarn can be sized in the ordinary 
manner and the yarn sizes obtained. 
To secure the size of the three-ply 
thread the process is similar to that 
used with an ordinary three-ply 
thread made of different numbers of 
yarn, the various sizes being the ones 



3 9375 
3.9375 
3.9375 



214 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



obtained plus the take-ups obtained 
previously: 

25 yarn size X .98 «■ 24.50 binder yarn size 
or ratio. 

25 yarn size X .85 = 21.25 ground yarn size 
or ratio. 

25 yarn size X .45 = 11.25 nub yarn size 
or ratio. 

25 -r- 24.50 = 1.020 

25 -H 21.25 = 1.176 

25 -H 11.25 = 2.222 



4.418 
25 -*■ 4.418 = 5.66 figured size, also actual 
size. 

It will be noted that the resulting 
yarn size is 5.66, which is the size 
actually obtained when the yarn is 
weighed before being dissected. It 
can be said that the cost of making 
such yarns is higher than for ordi- 
nary work, but is not so large an 
amount as many believe who have not 
had experience in manufacturing. 

In many instances, yarn.; of this 
character can be made on ordinary 
spinning frames which are adjusted 
for the purpose. At other times they 
are made on twisting frames which 
are rearranged, and it is also pos- 
sible to purchase machines for mak- 
ing such yarns. The ultimate cost is 
determined largely by the amount of 
experimentation necessary before the 
correct results are obtained. It is 
easy to make novelty yarns of 
this character, but it is not always 
so easy to obtain the combination 
which produces good results when 
woven. If orders be of quite good 
size, the cost of producing is rela- 
tively small. The second twisting op- 
eration is of minor importance and 
the cost of doing it is ra^ner small, 
mainly for the reason that compara- 
tively small twist is necessary when 
placing the binder on the cloth, and 
the production is large. 

NOVELTY YARN MAKING. 

It is very likely that the larger 
share of such yarns are made on 
spinning frames which are rearrang- 
ed for such rurposp. In making varns 
of this character, the two threads in 
the first twisting operation are usual- 
ly delivered at about the same speed, 
but the ground thread moves forward 
only at intervals. In this individual 
case, the nubs are spaced at intervals 
of about five- eighths of an inch each. 



Sometimes such yarns are made by a 
slide which moves up and down, spac- 
ing the extra yarn delivered at the 
points where desired. One of the 
points to receive careful consideration 
in any such kind of yarn production 
is that relating to strength. When 
the yarns being used are of fine sizes, 
as many are, it is usually necessary 
to use two ends for ground instead 
of one, but in this instance, the yarn 
is of such coarse character that com- 
paratively little attention need be giv- 
en to this item, and another reason 
why less care is necessary is because 
the yarn is used for filling instead of 
warp. If the novelty yarn was used 
for warp, greater strength is neces- 
sary, and, in general, the nubs and 
loops have to be bound in more firmly 
because of the rubbing action exerted 
by the reed. The combinations in 
such yarns are practically number- 
less, for they are made in combina- 
tions of various materials, in combina- 
tions of various colors, with nubs 
spaced at regular and also at irregular 
distances, and then there is the wide 
variety caused by the combination of 
different sizes of yarn. It is probable 
that no two mills use exactly the 
same sizes of yarn, the same amount 
of twist or produce the same effect, 
although, in general, the results may 
be somewhat similar. 

WEAVING. 

There are certain features regard- 
ing the yarn which we have brought 
to notice as being different from those 
in ordinary cloth, but there are also 
items which are of interest relating 
to the production of the cloth. In the 
first place, the filling which sizes 
about 5% is so heavy that it lasts only 
a short time when the loom is in op- 
eration. This makes the chief occu- 
pation of the weaver that of changing 
the filling when it runs out, and 
at the mill, such cloths are usu- 
ally called filling jobs. This continual 
changing of the filling bobbins also 
makes the percentage of production 
rather low in comparison with many 
fancy fabrics. It is also true that a 
weaver cannot operate so many looms 
as on ordinary goods largely because 
of this above-mentioned continual 
changing of shuttles. Because the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



295 



weaver does not operate a great num- 
ber of looms does not mean that the 
yardage production per loom or per 
weaver is not large, for it is. This is 
occasioned because of the small num- 
ber of picks per inch, namely, 24. This 
will be clear to anyone who has ever 
been connected with cloth making. 
The small number of picks also ex- 
plains other important features re- 
garding the cloth. It is sometimes 
necessary to operate looms at a some- 
what lower speed than for other plain 
fabrics, although not much slower 
than would be noted on ordinary 
dobby cloth. 

PROFITS. 
As previously stated, this fabric is 
without doubt the largest seller of 
any similar domestic cloth, and also 
has as low a retail price as any yet 
brought to light. This low price does 
not indicate that the makers are not 
reaping a harvest from such cloth 
manufacturing. It will be noted from 
the analvsis given that the cost of 
manufacturing and selling is practical- 
ly 9 cents per yard. This includes all 
the expenses which should be incur- 
red up to the jobber. The selling 
house, it is understood, acts only as a 
distributing agency for the mill, and 
the costs for selling this cloth are 
given at a conservative lev^l and one 
which many houses could equal. Un- 
der such circumstances, practically all 
the profits made would accrue to the 
mill. The net profit, as figured, 
amounts to about 4 cents a yard. This 
does nc t seem great for a novelty fab- 
ric, but it is large when the actual 
profits are considered. Due to the 
very material production per loom, 
a profit on a fabric of this character 
would be much larger than on one 
where the number of picks was high- 
er, therefore 4 cents per yard on this 
24-pick cloth means a profit per loom 
per week of at least $17.50. This gives 
a rate of profit per loom per year of 
approximately $900. At a loom valua- 
tion of $800, and this is conservative 
for a mill producing a fabric of this 
kind, a net profit should be obtained 
of over 110 per cent a year. It is 
very likely that, with the economies 
which this corporation is known to 
adopt, possibly more than this amount 
is being secured, and the figures are 



approximately correct for other mills 
which might be inclined to produce 
this cloth. 

JUSTIFICATION FOR PRICE. 

It can be said that very few cases 
indeed are ever noted in thn domestic 
markets where profits are so exces- 
sive as they are on this fabric, but 
there is something to be said regard- 
ing these facts concerning the cloth 
and the profits being obtained. On 
plain materials which are now being 
made, and which have been manufac- 
tured continuously in large quanti- 
ties, such as sheetings, duck, denims, 
flannelette and otner similar cloth, 
a small profit a yard is all that any 
mill expects to make, because they 
are regular fabrics and require com- 
paratively little ability to produce. 
Operations are very regular on such 
fabrics, and changes in style seldom 
take place. Under such conditions, 
when it is considered that present 
cloth prices actually do represent a 
net profit of 25 per cent on many 
kinds of these cloths, even though 
some are inclined to dispute the fact, 
the comparison of profits shown on 
this cloth does not appear so exces- 
sive. 

It takes ability and foresight to work 
out a fabric which is adaptable to a 
certain style and which can be made 
at a price cheap enough to have a 
large sale. Even in comparison with 
many of the imported fabrics which 
have sold at $1 a yard, it can be said 
that this cloth shows as good value 
as many of them, and at 25 cents a 
yard retail. In so far as the value to 
the consumer is much greater than it 
was a while ago, it can be said that 
the mill profit on such a cloth is jus- 
tifiable. There is a greater chance 
taken in making such cloth, and it is 
seldom that one is developed which 
shows the high rate of profit named. 
Competition is also very keen in the 
making of such lines, and only by 
getting in ahead of others can high 
profits be obtained, and in a short 
time others are likely to force com- 
petition to a point where profits are 
not so large. Cloths of this charac- 
ter have otiIv a short run at best, and 
then combinations and adaptations are 
necessary with the materials which 



296 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



happen to be in style, so that high mercerization process. Many other 

profits of this nature are compara- items might be given along the same 

tively short lived. line, and so far as the styling is con- 

IMPROVEMENT IN FABRICS. cerned, imported fabrics show no 

t 4.t 1*1. *v,~ i„„i„ ~* „ greater, if as great, adaptability or ef- 

In connection with the analysis of a f or t lvP n OC<J 

novelty fabric of this character it may „,";!*• „.„„ „ mT „ TTm „ 

be of advantage to again bring to no- FINDING YARN WEIGHTS, 

tice the fact that the domestic indus- In connection with what we have 

try Las improved a great deal in the previously presented regarding the 

past five years. This cloth is a good finding of yarn sizes, the finding of 

illustration of the development of a the yarn weights and from this the 

fabric to suit a demand, and that it is cost of the cloth is a rather simple 

an improvement in price, so far as proceeding. The cotton used in this 

the consumer is concerned, is worthy fabric is no different than that used 

PATTERN. 
28/1 Am. carded warp, colored. 1.824 total ends. 
£.66 novelty, 3-ply filling. 24 picks finished. 
82 reed, 28" width in reed, 27" wide finished. 
67 X 24 cloth count. 

TARNS. 

Cotton. Labor, waste, etc. 

28/1 Am. carded, 1% 8 " sta. ; 5% hank dou. rov., Ifrifcc. 16>4c. = 28%c. 

5.66 novelty, 1Mb" sta.; 5 hank dou. rov., 12%c. 20%c. = 33c. 

COST. 

1,824 ends 28/1 Am. carded + 10% take-up = .0857 @ 2S%c == $ .0246 

34 picks 5.66 novelty =.1414 @ 33c = .0467 

Weaving ". .0056 

Expenses .0048 

$ .0817 
Washing, etc .0040 

Mill cost $.0857 

Selling 0034 

$ .0891 
Selling house price about 13c. net per yard. 
Jobbing price about 16 %c. per yard. 
Retail price 25c. per yard. 
Yards per pound. 4.40. 
Cost of producing at mill = 37.71c. per lb. 

of notice, even though large profits in many of the ordinary fabrics, the 

are being secured. An examination whole result being obtained from the 

of the various lines of cloth which are combination of yarn and the method 

being shown by converters and con- of making. Thi weights are obtained 

verting jobbers will emphasize the as follows: 

fact that probably greater improve- 1,824 ends h- (28/i x 840) = .0771. weight 

ment has been made in the past five ° f w »n> without take-up. 

years in cloth manufacturing in do- .0771 £ e ~9 UP = n .0857? V totai weight of warp 

mestic mills than has ever taken place per yard of cloth. 

before in the same length of time. 24 picks x 2S " reed wldth x 36 " _ 672 yard . 

Mercerized shirtings and dress goods, 36" 

fast colors in combinations, decora- 91 ? * u %* 6 ?% %$ x 84 <» = .1414. total 

tions of real and artificial silk, the weight of filling per yard of cloth. 

development of fabrics for a certain 08 v " rl + 1414 = • 2271, total wel * ht » er 

demand, and various other items of 1.0000 •*■ .2271 -= 4.40 yards per pound. 

interest are very evident. The new .» .» 

combinations have made another field ««mm/\« ».<»«<■* «« 

which has almost established a new f.llTTllN DRAPERY 

industry in certain directions. This VV11V11 mini Ull 1 

is shown in one way by the large use This fabric is one of the very many 

of mercerized cloths for men's shirt- which have a rather wide distribu- 

ings. Without doubt, the present style tion, the prices varying greatly, de- 

in men's shirts would never have been pending on the quality and weight of 

used to a great extent except for the the goods, the material from which 






A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



l»7 



they are made and various other de- 
tails of manufacturing. In a general 
way, such fabrics are not only made 
in rather small quantities at the mills, 
but they are sold in very restricted 
amounts by the retailers. The vari- 
ous avenues of distribution are rath- 
er small, and do not compare with 
those noted on the ordinary kinds of 
cotton fabrics, such as dimities, lawns, 
flannelettes, etc. All the above items 
affect the price of the goods, and, 
naturally, most of them are rather ex- 
pensive. The fabric which we are to 



be said that the yarns in this cloth are 
much finer than those ordinarily noted 
in hammocks. 

WOVEN ON JACQUARD LOOMS. 

Many of the cloths such as that 
analyzed, and, in fact, most of the 
ones sold in any large quantities, are 
produced on jacquard looms. These 
looms are tied up in a coarser count 
than that noted in most cotton and 
silk fabrics, few of them being as 
high a count as 100 per inch, and most 
of them much lower than this amount. 




Cotton Drapery. 



consider is one of the very cheap 
cloths which are made and sold for 
the use as noted. Such cloths are 
sometimes used for other purposes 
than draperies, but this purpose forms 
the largest portion of the sales. It 
can be said that the profits from mak- 
ing and selling these cloths are larger 
than for other cloths, mainly because 
the distribution is small, and the 
amount of yardage sold Is a rather 
small amount. These cloths are very 
similar to many which are used for 
hammocks, and other purposes where 
the cloth count 1b low, although It can 



The cloth we have analyzed was prob- 
ably made on an ordinary 400 jac- 
quard head, with a tie-up of some- 
where in the vicinity of 50 threads per 
inch. This makes the total pattern 
repeat about 8 inches in width. It 
may be possible that this cloth Instead 
of being made as noted was tied up 
100 per inch with a pattern of about 
4 inches instead of 8 inches. The 
repeat of the pattern Is about 
4 inches wide, there being two repeats 
to the jacquard machine. Of course, 
if the machine was tied up 100 per 
inch there would have to be about 



293 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



one-half of the machine cast 
out in the weaving of this cloth. In a 
great many fancy drapery iabrics the 
jacquard machines are tied up so as 
to produce a border. This is done by 
having a certain number of hooks in 
the jacquard machine set aside and 
tied up so that they operate only on 
one side of the cloth. In other cases, 
fabrics are woven double width with 
an open space down the center of the 
cloth, and when the fabric is woven, 
this open space is cut and made into a 
sort of fringe. At other times the 
fringe, if there is any, is added after 
the fabric is woven. 

YARNS USED. 

In the cloth considered the yarns 
which have been used in manufactur- 
ing are not different from those noted 
in very many fabrics, but the combina- 
tion is not customary. The warp yarn 
is composed entirely of black, and the 
yarn is such as might be noted in 
many medium or rather fine dyed yarn 
fabrics, although the cloth count is 
rather low, being only 50 threads per 
inch. In a great many of these fab- 
rics the cloth count is low, not only 
in order to aid in producing a fabric 
at a low cost, but also to give a certain 
amount of softness not customary 
when fabrics are woven with a high 
';ount and heavy yarns. In some kinds 
\jl cloths carded yarns are used, and 
in other cases, the yarns are of 
combed construction. The figure 
which is woven on the cloth is made 
entirely by the filling, and although 
there are two kinds of filing used only 
one of them brings out the effect. In 
the first place, there is a fine black 
filling used, somewhat similar to the 
warp yarn. This is much finer in size 
than is ordinarily noted in dyed yarn 
fabrics. Both black warp and filling 
are probably yarn dyed, because, in 
the large maiority of instances, this 
is the method adonted in dyeing yarns 
for such kinds of cloth. The filling 
which produces the pa. tern is also 
dyed, but instead of being black it has 
a golden color, and besides being dyed, 
it is also mercerized. As is usual, this 
mercerized yarn is much heavier in 
size than the yarns used in the ground 
clo f h, for this mercerized yarn pro- 



duces the effect, and, therefore, needs 
to be more prominent. 

MERCBRIZATION. 
A few ideas regarding the process 
of mercerization may be of interest 
when this cloth is being considered, 
a,.d, therefore, a tew tucts are gi^en, 
although there has been no intention 
01 giving a minute description. Wnen 
ordinary cotton is examined, it pre- 
sents an appearance somewhat like a 
rather flat twisted tube with curled 
edges. This is when ripe cotton fibres 
are considered. When this same cot- 
ton is mercerized, it seems to swell 
out and appear more like a small 
glass rod with many of the rough 
edges eliminated, and this smoothness 
imparts the luster which mercerized 
yarn contains. It must be remember- 
ed that when cotton is allowed to 
shrink practically no luster results, 
but when either cotton fibres, yarns 
or cloths are held out tightly when im- 
liersed, the result is a smooth and 
glossy appearance, which is perma- 
nent. There are various chemicals 
which will produce these effects on 
cotton fibres, but, due to reasons of 
economy, practically only one solution 
is used to any great extent. The 
strength of this solution will vary, de- 
pending on the temperature at which 
the process is accomplished, and no 
great difference in result is apparent 
even if a stronger solution than is 
necessary be used. As a usual thing, 
the shrinkage, when it is allowed, will 
amount to about 20 per cent, although 
this amount will vary somewhat. 
When this process is done commer- 
cially, the excess of chemical in the 
solution is separated after the process 
is accomplished, and is then used 
again. It can be said that the large 
use which has been made of this proc- 
ess of late has been instrumental in 
reducing the costs of operation and 
making it possible of application to a 
great many fabrics where the cost of 
doing it made it formerly imprac- 
ticable. Of course, a large majority of 
products can be either mercerized in 
the yarn or in the cloth. Yarns are 
mercerized in two methods, the first 
being in a skein form where the 
skeins are placed on a sort of drum 
which is immersed in the solution 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



299 



and wherein the drum prevents 
shrinking. The second method is to 
mercerize the yarn in a chain form, 
the machine employed making it pos- 
sible to keep the yarn under tension 
while it is in the solution. Both of 
these processes were used quite ex- 
tensively before the final decision was 
reached that the patents which had 
formerly been granted did not hold, al- 
though, naturally, few outside of the 
various plants knew they were being 
used. Recently, there has been a 
large increase in the sale of fabrics 
which are mercerized. These are of 
two kinds. The first is that class 
wherein soft or rather soft twist yarn 
is used as filling, and which is held 
tightly in the filling direction when it 
is mercerized; in other words, the 

SOFT TWIST FILLING 

is the portion of the cloth which re- 
ceives the mercerization. The second 
class of fabrics is that which is com- 
posed cf soft twist two-ply warp, and 
which is held tightly lengthwise of 
the fabric, and in which the warp 
yarn receives the luster. In the first 
class of cloths is the long list of shirt- 
ings, waistings and other rather fine 
fabrics, while in the second division 
are the mercerized poplins and sim- 
ilar fabrics, and in which list is in- 
cluded some kinds of draperies. A 
while ago it was believed that the 
process was of small value to any 
fabric which wa3 produced from short 
staple cotton or from carded yarns, 
but recent events, notably the lower- 
ing of costs of operation and improve- 
ment in handling has made it of 
value in certain cheap cloths; that is, 
the cost of applying makes it pos- 
sible to obtain a high enough price to 
warrant the process. The reason why 
longer staple cotton is used in many 
cases is because less twist can be ap- 
plied to the yarn and still have enough 
strength to make the yarn usable. 
Longer staple cotton produces strong- 
er yarn, because of the greater num- 
ber of contact or friction points when 
it is spun. The small amount of twist 
is desirable in mercerization because 
it allows the fibres to lie more nearly 
parallel with a consequently higher 
luster. The increase of twist crinkles 



the fibre, and because the fibres. ar« 
not straight, decreases the luster. 

METHOD OF MAKING PATTERN. 

In this identical cloth, the pattern 
is produced in the following manner: 
The black warp and black filling yarn 
weave plain throughout the w,hole fab- 
ric. Of course, this cloth has to be 
woven on a jacquard box loom, for 
two kinds of filling are used. This 
box-loom motion introduces two picks 
of black yarn and then two picks of 
mercerized yarn. When the figure is 
to be produced, the mercerized yarn 
is allowed to float and does not weave 
in with the black warp yarn. There 
is one point which is worthy of note, 
and which is probably done to allow 
the mercerized filing to spread p.s 
much as possible, and this is that one 
pick of black is placed in the same 
shade with the mercerized yarn, ex- 
cepting where the figure is being 
woven. The mercerized yarn is wo- 
ven two picks in a shade, and this 
process makes two picks of mercer- 
ized yarn and one pick of black yarn 
in a shade together, excepting where 
the figure is formed. It is also prob- 
ably true that this cloth was woven 
face down in the loom, as by means 
of this process fewer hooks in the jac- 
quard head are raised, and a better 
weaving job results. To produce the 
effect noted in the finished cloth there 
is employed a shearing process which 
clips off the floats of mercerized yarn 
which have been woven for the fig- 
ure: that is, instead of having the 
cloth effect formed by the floats of 
mercerized yarn, it is formed by the 
black warp and filling which remain, 
and which have been woven plainly 
underneath the mercerized filling fig- 
ure. It will be seen that this shearing 
process has not clipped off all of the 
filling floats. It is always a problem 
to make figures of this nature in this 
kind of fabric which can be sheared 
successfully, although the problem is 
much easier with filling floats than It 
is with warp floats. In very few cloths" 
are the results entirely satisfactory 
unless the length of floats is from one- 
quarter to three-eighths of an inch in 
length, and even then, it often hap- 
pens that threads are left on the cloth. 



800 



▲ COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Of course, the result obtained Is many 
times a question of price, for cloths 
can be sheared very closely indeed 
when the cloth price is of little conse- 
quence, but when a cheap fabric is be- 
ing considered, an excessive price for 
the shearing operation would not be 
warranted by the selling prices ob- 
tained. 

COST OF MAKING. 

It is a quite well-known fact that 
the cost of making any kind of nov- 
elty fabric will vary greatly. In the 
first place, many makers have to pur- 
chase their entire supply of yarn when 
a special cloth is to be made. Then, 
too, certain mills can make ordinary 



its to the cloth maker. Retailers do 
surely obtain a much larger percent- 
age of profit on all kinds of drapery 
fabrics than they do on many kinds of 
dress fabrics. This is claimed to be 
necessary because of the small turn- 
over in the sale of such materials, but 
both cloth makers and cloth users of- 
ten comment on the prices for fabrics 
of this character. One interesting 
item is that it is sometimes possible 
to purchase cloth of practically identi- 
cal construction but sold in two differ- 
ent departments of the same store and 
at radically different prices, and this 
will tend to prove that selling methods 
do have a great deal of influence on 
the prices to consumers, and they 



PATTERN. 
2 2 

40/1 Am. combed black — 1,748 — = 1,748 ends. 

10 10 

70/1 Am. combed black "I 

}• Filling, 60 picks total per inch. 
20/2 Eg. combed gold J 

24 reed. 36" width in reed, 34%" wide, finished. 
50 X 60 finished count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, waste, 
Cotton. dyeing, etc. 

40/1 Am. combed black, l%"sta.; 8 hank dou. rov., 18c. 24Vic. = 42%c. 

70/1 Am. combed black, l%"sta.; 14 hank dou. rov., 24c. 33%c. = 57V4c. 

20/2 Eg. combed gold, l%"sta. ; 4 hank dou. rov., 26c. 24 Vic = 50 Vic. 

COST. 

1,748 ends 40/1 Am. combed + 5% take-up = .0547 @ 42%c = $ .0233 

30 picks 70/1 Am. combed = .0183 @ 57 Vic = .0105 

30 picks 20/2 Eg. combed = .1286 @ 50Vic = .0646 

Weaving .0190 

Expenses .0198 

Shearing, etc .0025 



Yards per pound, 4.96. 
Retail price, 39c. per yard. 

dyed yarn but have no apparatus for 
mercerizing. Due to such conditions, 
it is very likely that the cost of ma- 
terials makes the profit obtained by 
various manufacturers of widely dif- 
ferent amounts, even if a good price 
be obtained for the cloth. One other 
reason why the cost of making such 
cloths will vary is because of the com- 
paratively small size of orders re- 
ceived, when compared with many 
other cotton fabrics, and because most 
of the above lines are not regular 
ones, they are likely to be made in 
small mills where the costs of pro- 
duction are naturally high. Prices 
are, for the foregoing reasons, natu- 
rally steep for such fabrics when first 
sold, but this is a natural condition, 
and may not allow any excessive prof- 



$ .1397 



have to be considered in the distribu- 
tion of merchandise. 

JACQUARD PATTERNS. 

That every kind of cloth can be 
treated in a method which might be 
called different is not often realized 
in the cloth trade. Take this individ- 
ual cloth, for example, and it can be 
seen that the painting of the jacquard 
design can be made much simpler 
than it would appear at first glance. 
It will be noted that the ground or 
black yarn weaves plain continually, 
so that for all the black filling only 
two different jacquard cards are nec- 
essary, as each two following black 
picks are duplicates of the preceding 
two. Because of the above reason, 
the cards for all the black picks can 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



301 



be cut on a repeater and in a much 
shorter time than if done on the or- 
dinary card cutter. Not only can the 
above process be adopted and these 
cards be introduced into their correct 
positions before the card set is laced 
up, but, in addition, the design can be 
laid out and painted, taking account 
only of the mercerized filling yarn. 
The design paper should be planned 
to apply correctly when this is done, 
but it is one of the means of reducing 
the cost. "With the correct method, 
it is not even necessary to have the 
weave painted on the mercerized yarn 
ground, but the result can be produced 
by merely painting in the places 
where the filling floats or figure are 
produced. Methods of saving time in 
the painting of jacquard designs are 
in use in many forms, and these meth- 
ods will vary according to the work 
being done. The adaptability of the 
man producing the work is of much 
influence in the easiest method being 
obtained, but unquestionably all the 
processes used do greatly help in low- 
ering the cost. 

To find the weights of the yarn and 
the yards per pound the process is as 
follows: 

1.748 ends -*- (840 X 40/1) = .0520, weight 

of warp without take-up. 
5% take-up in weaving 1 . 
.0520 -f- .95 = .0547, total weight of warp 

per yard of woven cloth. 
30 picks X 36" width in reed X 36" 

- = 1,080 

yards of filling (both 70/1 and 20/2). 
1,080 -+- (840 X 70/1) = .0183, weight of 

70/1 filling per yard of cloth. 
1,080 -*- (840 X 20/2) = .1286, weight of 

20/2 filling per yard of cloth. 
.0547 + .0183 + -1286 = .2016, total weight 

per yard. 
1.0000 -+- .2016 = 4.96 yards per pound. 

+-*~* 



SILK MIXTURE MARQUISETTE 

This class of fabric has quite a gen- 
eral use and although not so large as 
many of the ordinary cloths, still it is 
of importance in cloth sales. Espe- 
cially has this been true during the 
past few years, when light materials 
have been used as overdrpsses and 
for other purposes, which add to the 
attractiveness in the finished garment. 
It Is probable that most of this cloth 
Is made wholly from silk yarn, but 



it is also manufactured from silk and 
cotton and entirely from cotton. To 
make the open work desirable it is 
necessary to use yarns of small diam- 
eter, this being one of the reasons why 
silk is used and why most of the cot- 
ton cloths are of fine or comparatively 
fine yarns. In few cases is there any 
great attempt to finish the fabric so 
that there will be a large amount of 
luster, the 

MAIN PURPOSE 

being to obtain an open effect with 
a comparatively firm texture, that is, 
one which does not slip badly. Be- 
cause the yarns are so fine and the 
count of the cloth so low, it is neces- 
sary to use a weave much different 
than that employed on most of the 
ordinary fabrics sold. This weave is 
generally called gauze and is the sim- 
plest form of leno weave used. 

Inasmuch as the cloth analyzed 
takes the place of some of the more 
expensive articles, and because it has 
developed a field which neither all silk 
nor all cotton fills, it may be well to 
consider it in some detail. A few 
years ago quite large quantities of 
similar fabrics were made and sold, 
but, they were penerallv dyed solid 
colors, while to-day fabrics are ap- 
pearing: which have printed patterns 
and which undoubtedly will have a 
large use because of their attractive 
appearance. Of course, it is admitted 
that the cloth as a fabric is not of 
much value, excepting when used with 
oth^r materials, ard thus the sale de- 
pends a great deal on style, much 
more so than when other fabrics are 
considered, but style to-day is of large 
influence in the use of any cloth, in 
fact, many believe it has more to do 
with successful operation and satis- 
factory profits than any other one 
item. 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 

As previously stated, the weave is 
what is called plain erauze, or, where 
one thread crosses first to one side 
and then to the other side of another 
thread, usually called the ground 
thread. This process of weaving does 
not result in the threads lying parallel 
as in most cloths, but the threads 
twist around each other and through 



302 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



this twisting the filling is held tightly 
and the warp does not slip even 
though there are no threads along- 
side to hold them in. 

Cloth of this character is produced 
in different ways, sometimes the or- 
dinary leno motion with doups is em- 



of different sizes, but, inasmuch as 
both threads are che same size and 
twist around each other, their take- 
ups and weaving are similar. It is, 
however, necessary to place the sel- 
vage ends on a separate beam or 
spool, because these ends do not take 




':■■ .■.■.■■:.:■■■. :/.. 



Silk Mixture Marquisette 






ployed with operation from the bot- 
tom, while at other times special 
reeds are used, and it is also possible 
to use patented heddles which oper- 
ate in a manner similar to the doups 
ordinarily seen. It is not necessary to 
place the crossing and ground threads 
on different beams, as is done in most 
kinds of leno work where changes are 
not regular and where the yarns are 



up in as great amounts as the ground 
part of the fabric. 

The weaving take-up is generally 
small, because the yarns are fine and 
they do not have to bend very much 
through the introduction of the filling. 

ANOTHER FEATURE 

which has to be considered in plan- 
ning any kind of an all-over leno 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



303 



cloth is that comparatively few picks 
can be placed in the fabric. This is 
not because the filling yarn fills the 
spaces available, but because the warp 
threads take up a great deal of room 
in crossing back and forth, and for a 
certain size of yarn only a certain 
number of crossings can be made. 
For the above reason the actual cloth 
construction should be worked out at 
the mill, a few picks too low will pro- 
duce a cloth which will slip, while a 
few picks too many will cause a bad 
weaving job and a large number of 
seconds. Much of the cloth made 
some time ago was woven with 60-2 
warp and two-thread 32-38 Tussah 
filling. Because of the rubbing and 
strain on the yarn, it is customary to 
use two-ply warp of rather fine char- 
acter. Too many picks of light silk 
filling are objectionable in that the 
fabric will not hold them, and the 
beating up of the reed is likely to cut 
them, making small places in the 
cloth, which appear as if the leno mo- 
tion does not operate, and naturally 
very many of such places will create 
a second. 

WEAVING. 

Even to anyone not familiar with 
cloths or the making of them, the 
weaving of such a fabric would be ex- 
pected to be the item of greatest in- 
terest not only because the fabric is 
different but because of a different 
method of producing. In the first 
place, it is easy enough to note that 
the two threads cross every pick to 
form the effect produced and that the 
whole fabric is nothing more nor less 
than the repetition of weave noted on 
these two threads. This can be seen 
from the illustration which we pre- 
sent. The leno or crossing threads 
are in solid color, while the ground 
threads are made of vertical lines and 
the filling is represented by the twill 
lines. 

It will be noticed that the fabric 
ground does not weave together at 
all, for the ground threads are always 
depressed and the filling threads al- 
ways pass over the top, the only way 
the threads are held together being 
through the crossing back and forth 
of the leno threads. Of course, the 
leno and ground threads cross each 



other and, inasmuch as the take-up 
on both of them is the same, they 
twist around each other in a similar 
manner, although for purposes of 
clearness we have not indicated them 
in this manner. The crossing thread 
is always on the top shed when the 
filling is introduced, while the ground 
thread is always depressed. To show 
how this above result is accomplished 
on the loom may not be so easy, al- 
though by referring to the illustra- 
tion the process may be observed. 
The threads are first drawn through 
heddles on harnesses just as if ordi- 
nary plain cloth were to be made, the 
first thread on the first harness and 
the second thread on the second har- 
ness, this operation being repeated 
until the whole warp is drawn in. 

There is, however, in front of these 
two harnesses a 

REGULAR HARNESS 

containing heddles, and also another 
slip harness containing no heddles. 
From the base of the first or slip har- 
ness are cords which pass up and 
through the eyes of the second harness 
heddles. Thus it will be seen that when 
the first harness or slip is raised, the 
cords are free to slide through the 
heddle eyes of the second, while, 
when the second is raised, the first 
is raised with it, because of the doups 
being through the eyes. Of course, 
if operated in this manner, there will 
be quite a strain on the cords, so an 
arrangement is usually made where- 
by the first harness is always raised 
when the second is, though the first 
can be raised when the second is not. 
One of the threads which has already 
been drawn on the back harness is 
again drawn through the cord loop 
which goes through the heddle eye, 
and when this has been done the 
other or ground thread is crossed 
over. The whole warp is then reeded 
and is now ready for the loom, 
although it must be recognized that 
crossing and ground threads must be 
drawn in the same dent in the reed or 
they will not operate. 

OPERATION SIMPLE. 

The operation of the loom is simple 
and is as follows: When the back 



304 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



harness is raised the front harness, or 
the one containing the cords, is aiso 
raised, and the threads pull the cords 
through the heddle eyes, thus lifting 
the crossing thread on one side of the 
ground thread. At the same time the 
harness containing the ground thread 
is left down and the filling passes 
over this portion of the warp. On the 
next pick the back harness, which was 
raised on the first pick, is left down, 
together with the harness containing 
the ground warp; in other words, the 
whole warp is down as far as the plain 
back harnesses are concerned, but the 
first and second harnesses are raised, 
and, because the loop is held tightly 
in the heddle eye, the crossing thread 
is pulled around to the other side of 
the ground thread, thus bringing the 
opposite position from that noted on 
the previous pick. These two opera- 
tions are continued throughout the 
cloth. To make the weaving easier 
and to relieve the strain on the yarn, a 
motion is applied to the back of the 
loom which lets off a certain amount 
of yarn when the crossing is taking 
place, but which pulls back the extra 
yarn when it is unnecessary. 

A great deal of the success obtained 
when making a leno or gauze fabric 
depends upon the care with which the 
loom is set. Not only will the percent- 
age of production be higher, together 
with a smaller number of seconds if 
care be exercised, but the cords or 
doups in the crossing motion will 
wear much longer and will make the 
cost of production less. Even at best, 
these cords wear out quite rapidly 
Another item which needs attention 
is to see that all the reeds' used are 
in perfect condition, for if there be a 
few crooked dents, this will cause an 
open place in the cloth with the warp 
thread spaced irregularly, and which 
effect cannot be eradicated when the 
cloth is finished. 

LOOMS OPERATED. 

The question of operatives and pro- 
duction is one which requires much 
consideration when such a cloth is to 
be woven. As will be seen from the 
analysis, the weaving cost is high, and 
It forms a much larger share of the 
total cost than Is the case on most 



fabrics. Anything which will permit 
an increased production should be 
tried, or it might be well to increase 
the looms per weaver, even if the 
percentage or production decreases 
somewhat, but this is not a good plan 
if the number of seconds increases 
radically. As style is responsible for 
a great portion of the use of such 
cloth, the quality made is largely in- 
strumental in bringing good prices, 
and, therefore, this should be kept as 
high as possible. To show how much 
the cost is affected by the production, 
it can be said that a 5 per cent In- 
crease in loom production will mean 
a saving of 45 cents a yard in the 
cost, or a saving of 9 1-3 cents a 
pound in the cloth. Of this saving 
35 cents a yard will be on the weaving 
alone, and, besides, with a greater 
production, a smaller amount per yard 
is needed for dividends. In other 
words, a 5 per cent increase will mean 
a saving of over $1 a loom per week 
and, with 100 looms operating, would 
be the same as saving the wages of 
more than 10 men at $10 a week. Just 
how far some of the cost systems in 
use are fundamentally wrong is illus- 
trated well by the cloth being con- 
sidered. 

It often happens that to obtain the 
total cost a certain percentage is add- 
ed to the weaving cost to obtain the 
expense cost. This method may give 
fairly satisfactory results where con- 
structions do not change much and 
where looms per operative do not 
vary widely, but where constructions, 
yarns and methods of making are rad- 
ically different f _>r each fabric, the 
cost of making obtained in such a 
manner is obviously incorrect. The 
expenses per loom in most mills do 
not vary so widely as the cost of 
weaving, mainly because the expense 
items per loom are many of them 
fixed, while the percentage of produc- 
tion per loom and the looms per op- 
erative may be radically different on 
the various styles. The loom speed 
for leno cloth is not so high as it Is 
for many other fancy woven fabrics; 
for it is necessary to have more time 
for the threads to cross satisfactorily. 
Even with this slower speed the per- 
centage of loom production will be 
lower than it is on most fancy woven 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



SOS 



fabrics and radically lower than it is 
on plain cloths. 

PLANNING PRODUCTION. 

Inasmuch as this kind of cloth is 
most always produced in cotton mills, 
and as long as the yardage produced 
from a pound of cotton is large, cer- 
tain problems have to be considered 
when orders are taken. If a mill is 
planned to make the yarns used in 
weaving, and most of them are, it will 



losing money when standing idle. 
If cloth prices are to be made with 
this machinery standing idle there 
should be sufficient leeway to permit 
of a satisfactory profit on all of the 
machines in the plant. Of course, 
quite a few mills sell yarn when their 
looms are operating on novelty fab- 
rics for which yarn must be pur- 
chased, or in which little material is 
required. This can be done success- 
fully if the styles do not change rap- 




r Aiimmr Aiwmmr ^hhh' jiiii 
ya v/vyA'A ' v/S/wm waw/1 waw/sa 



Kfl : li?rte 



nut $ 

Z%%8% WAWA Y/W/SA W4MM m 



WWM 



r A\\mm r A\\mw aiimw a\\\m 
a w/y/SA r/s/y/y/. wwx*. oyAoyjyj 



"*K 



u- 



Hilt ^■■llllk "HHHt 1 

wAwyA Y/yj:oy/, w/jya'a w&vm. k 



r A\\mm r Aiwmmr Aiwmmr a\\\\ 
?g %#%<2 Yyyjy/yA wwa //y/ioys://. 






i TH-ffl l 



^IIIW 



Weave. 



be evident that when such cloths are 
being produced the spinning and ac- 
cessory machinery, or a large portion 
of it, will be standing idle. Some do 
not consider this yarn making machin- 
ery when they are considering profits, 
tut it is very evident that profits will 
not be so large as they have been fig- 
ured, because the preparatory machin- 
ery expense will have to be carried by 
the looms, for instead of the spinning 
and other machinery making a profit, 
or even operating at cost, it wi!l be 



idly, for prices on sale yarn can be 
made as low as cost, and even 
then a mill is at some advantage be- 
cause tne organization is being held 
together. The selling of cloths which 
ke-3p all or nearly all of a mill's ma- 
chinery in operation requires a great 
deal of judgment and is on^ of the 
items which, up to the present time, 
has been neglected, but better train- 
ing and more accurate records are 
making the problem much simpler 
than it was, and without doubt this 



306 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



policy is saving money for some mills many printed warp fabrics which 
making novelty cloths. are often produced in silk and at cer- 

METHOD OF FINISHJNG. *** TSX^^r^ when to- 
There is nothing in the finishing of ishing such fabrics to have a large 
such a fabric as t.iat analyzed winch share of the ground cotli uith pUm 
is particularly troublesome, excepting effects, so that the underdress may be 
that the cloth is of rather light weight partially visible, the patterns being 
and not very strong, and, therefore, added more for attractiveness in gen- 
must be handled carefully. As the eral effects than for any other pur- 
cloth is composed of silk and cotton, pose. Few realize the number of 
it must be bleached in the usual meth- high quality fabrics now being pro- 
od employed for the combinations of duced in domestic mills and the 
these materials. When the fabric has adaptability which is being used in 
been bleached it is sometimes dyed a making them desirable from a con- 

PATTERN. 
100/2 Sea Island combed 1,408 = 1,408 

2 2 

100/2 Sea Island combed — — =128 

32 32 — — 

1.536 total ends. 
14/16 2 thread Canton silk filling. 44 picks. 

60 reed, 29" width In reed, 26" grey width, 25%" finished width. 
68 X 44 ground count finished. 

YARNS. 

Labor, Twist- 

Cotton, waste, etc. ing. 
100/2 Sea Island combed, 1%" sta.; 20 hank dou. rov., 32c. 42c. 8c. = $ .82 

14/16 2 thread silk, 140,000 yards per lb., on quills, = 3.75 

COST. 

1,408 ends 100/2 Sea Island combed + 7% take-up = .0360 @ $ .82 = $ .0295 

128 ends 100/2 Sea Island combed + 2% take-up = .0031 @ .82 = .0026 

44 picks 14/16 2 thread Canton = .0091 @ 3.75 = .0341 

Weaving .0534 

Expenses .0140 

$ .1336 
Selling 0027 

$ .1363 

Mill selling price, (about) .1525 

Finishing, printing, etc .0300 

Converter's cost (without expenses) $ .1825 

Price to retailer (about) $ .2600 

Price to consumer .3800 

All over leno weave, changing every pick. 

Yards per pound, 20.75 (grey). 

solid color with a dyestuff which re- sumers' standpoint. It is such im- 
quires only one bath, while at other provement and adaptability which is 
times it is dyed in two colors, and going to make the future of the do- 
through the means of two processes, mestic industry certain, and when 
the silk being dyed with one kind of consideration is given to the amount 
color while the cotton remains white, of progress made during the past five 
and a subsequent process makes the years the situation is truly one in 
cotton the desired color. The fabric which domestic sellers may well take 
we have considered has been bleached, pride. 

but instead of being dyed, it is printed, nT nTn __, _ _ 

the patterns being no different than CL.OTH WMGHTb. 

those applied ordinarily to light cot- Fabrics such as that considered are 

tons, or silk and cottons used for dress usually sold by the mill in a grey or 

purposes. The colors are usually light unfinished state, that is, they are 

shades, and because of the open work made f grey or unbleached cotton, 

of the fabric the effect is rather sub- and the cloth appearance is, many 

dued, appearing somewhat similar to times, nothing like that which it is 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



307 



when sold over the counter. For this 
reason the weights and yarns are giv- 
en in their grey state. Take the warp 
in this cloth, and without doubt the 
size when used was 100-2, but as it 
stands in the finished cloth, the size 
is nearer 110-2. This finer size comes 
lrom the handling and fulling of the 
cloth and from washing and bleach- 
ing. The silk filling used was prob- 
ably two-thread 14-16 Canton silk. 
We have used in our analysis a yard- 
age of 140,000 for this silk, although 
this is not the theoretical yardage, 
but is one which is somewhat lower, 
and is a sort of protection to the cloth 
maker for variation in size. It must 
be remembered that when the cloth 
is bleached and boiled out this 
silk will lose a varying amount 
through loss of gum. the loss differ- 
ing according to conditions of finish- 
ing, though it is probable the per- 
centage would be from 15 to 
20 per cent. When the yarn sizes 
have been obtained and the take-up in 
weaving noted, the problem of finding 
the weights of the yarn, and from 
these weights the yards per pound, is 
easily accomplished, and is as fol- 
lows: 

1,408 end3 h- (100/2 X 840) = .0335, weight 

of ground warp without take-up. 
7% take-up In weaving. 
.0335 -4- .93 = .0360, total ground warp 

weight per vard of cloth. 
128 ends -f- (100/2 X 840) = .0030, weight 

of selvage yarn without take-up. 
2% take-up in weaving. 
.0030 h- .98 = .0031. total selvage weight 

per yard of cloth. 
44 picks X 29" reed width X 36" 

= 1.276 yds. 

36" 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,276 -*- 140,000 yards silk = .0091. total 

weight of filling per yard of cloth. 
.0360 + .0031 + .0091 = .0482, total weight 

per yard. 
1.0000 -+- .0482 = 20.75 yards per pound. 
♦-•-» 

SILK MIXTURE BROCADE 

There has been a great deal of in- 
terest during the past year or more 
regarding the sale of fabrics compos- 
ed of silk and cotton. Various causes 
contributed to a large slump in the 
purchasing of these cloths during the 
past year, and while many believed 
there was to be only a small demand 
for them some time, a great many 
others were convinced that such 



cloths when made in good quality 
would have a good sale. It can be 
said that fabrics of this character are 
available for certain uses, and that 
they fill a place which neither all cot- 
ton nor all silk can. This results from 
the fact that material wholly made of 
silk is rather expensive and when fab- 
rics are made entirely of cotton they 
do not have the effect desired by a 
great many consumers, therefore the 
combination of materials makes a 
cloth which offers quite a good deal of 
value and an effect which many times 
would be considered as being produced 
from silk entirely. Naturally, the 
large majority of such materials are 
rather light in weight and they are 
used for dresses, waists and almost 
any other purpose where a light cloth 
is suitable and where a great deal of 
hard wear is not encountered. 

REGARDING DEVELOPMENT. 

Fabrics made of these materials are 
liable to be very ragged looking if the 
construction is poor, and this is the 
main reason why there was a slack- 
ening in demand. There is no reason 
wh ■ there should not be a continued 
and satisfactory demand for fabrics of 
this nature, and without doubt the next 
few years will see a good many of 
them used. 

Inasmuch as these cloths Lave not 
been made and sold in large quanti- 
ties for any length of time, it may 
be well to state a few facts regarding 
their making. In a general way it can 
be said that the large use of fabrics 
of this character has grown during the 
past ten years, althoneh th«v were 
manufactured quite a while before this 
time. When first produced the combi- 
nations were of rather unknown quan- 
tity and the results not always satis- 
factory, hut in time beautiful results 
were produced. It is only within the 
past five years that the cloth finishing 
process has improved to such a great 
extent as it has. Of course, before 
this time the cloth was finished in a 
satisfactory manner, but the appear- 
ance has been greatly improved since 
that time. 

PRICES WERE HIGH. 

When these fabrics were first pro- 
duced the prices were very high at 



308 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



retail, probably because of their simi- 
larity to silk fabrics. At that time it 
was possible to see fabrics of this 
character selling at anywhere from 
75 cents to one dollar or even more 
per yard, and which can now be pur- 
chased at from 25 to 35 cents per yard. 
This has come about largely because 
of the greater amount of competition 
in the making of such cloths, for 
there has been a big increase in com- 
petition in the domestic market during 
the past ten years on fine and fancy 
fabrics. In some clasps of these ma- 
terials silk is uced for the vrarp yarn 



ordinarily either 14-16 two-thread 
Canton or else 22-26 single Canton. 
The latter size silk is somewhat finer 
than the former and is used in the 
cheaper grade of material. The fore- 
going statements do not mean that 
other silks are not used in making 
silk and cotton mixtures, but by far 
the largest quantities are the silks 
named. 

PERCENTAGE OF PRODUCTION. 

Fabrics of this character are made 
in well-equipped mills, as a usual 
thing. That is, they have looms that 




Silk Mixture Brocade. 



and cotton for the filling yarn, while 
in other Instances cotton warp is used 
together with silk filling. In the first 
class of fabrics are silk and cotton eo- 
liennes, poplins, crepes and some 
other materials, while in the second 
class are the so-called Canton silks 
of various kinds. 

When silk warp is used it is the cus- 
tom to use Italian silk for the warp. 
The size of yarn used will vary some- 
what, depending mon the coTtrtHio^a in 
the different mills, some mills' being 
able to use finer yarns than others, al- 
though the variation is comparatively 
small. When silk filling is used it is 



can handle silk and fine cotton yarns, 
for it is generally necessary to use fine 
cotton in combination with silk to give 
a fabric which is suitable. A great 
many manufacturers were afraid to go 
into the use of silk, because they 
thought it would create a great deal 
of trouble in weaving. Continued at- 
tempts have proved that such was not 
the case, because in a majority of the 
instances a greater percentage of pro- 
duction is obtained than if a whole 
cotton rloth were heine made. Tn fab- 
rics which are of good quality and 
made by combinations of these mate- 
rials it is usually the case that the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



309 



silk costs will about equal one-half 
the total cost of the cloth, including 
the labor and cotton yarn charges and 
expenses. The effects which can be 
produced are many times very beauti- 
ful, and the silk tends to bring out the 
weave to a greater extent than if cot- 
ton alone were used. 

The percentage of production will 
depend a great deal on circumstances, 
but under the right conditions no 
trouble should be experienced. If the 
reefis ?.re poor and silk warp is being 
used the roughness will rub the yarn 
and cause many breakages, besides 
making an uneven cloth. It is also 
true that rough heddles or cracked 
heddle eyes will cause breakages in 
the warp if silk be used. Because 
of the fineness of the silk filling it is 
not so necessary to change bobbins 
as if cotton yarn were being used for 
rough filling. In most instances the 
filling Is purchased on quills and 
ready to use in the shuttle, although 
there are mills which purchase the 
silk on spools and quill it themselves. 

THE ORGANIZATION. 

One of the most important, if not 
the most important, item in connec- 
tion with making cloth cf this charac- 
ter is the relation which the produc- 
tion bears to the machinery equip- 
ment in the mill. It would be a 
rather foolish process to have a mill 
entirely equipped for producing cot- 
ton cloth and then to start in making 
fabrics of this nature and have quite 
a large share of the machinery idle 
as a result. Some mills when mak- 
ing cloth of this nature sell yarn, 
and this keeps their extra machinery 
in operation, and while sometimes not 
returning a profit it keeps the organ- 
ization at the mill intact, or until 
cotton cloths are more desirable. 
Cases have been known where yarn 
production was sold and where mix- 
ture novelties were woven to take 
care of the looms and keep the weav- 
ers. Prices were made in this in- 
stance at low levels to obtain a suf- 
ficient ouantity of orders. 

Silk mills object to selling silk on 
spools in some cases, largely because 
If the silk is sold in this manner It 
keens their filling machinery idle 
and their organization is planned to 



produce the silk on quills. Of 
course, if the profit in making cloth 
of this character is high enough to 
warrant the carrying of the overhead 
charges when the rest of the plant is 
idle it is a different proposition, but 
there is always the item of keeping 
in touch with customers and keeping 
operatives employed, and that these 
are of great importance is being 
shown very clearly in to-day's manu- 
facturing. 

LOOMS USED. 

Inasmuch as these cloths represent 
some of the finest productions in the 
domestic market, it can be said that 
they are made in the newer and bet- 
ter equipped plants. In a general way 
these fabrics are made on dobby and 
jacquard looms, although there are 
quite a good many which are pro- 
duced on plain looms. Many of the 
dobby patterns are made on looms 
which operate up to 24 harnesses, and 
probably most of the jacquard pat- 
terns are made on either 400 or 600 
head machines. This doe3 not signify 
that the count of these machines is 
the same in very many instances, 
because the tie-up will vary. Most 
of these jacquard looms were Install- 
ed to make shirting materials and 
in few cases i3 the tie-up per inch 
over 120, while in many instances, 
it is lower than this amount. 

Probably the largest amount of 
cloth produced with any one warp 
count is that made with a count of 96 
threads, and the number of picks will 
vary, depending on the price paid and 
other conditions. As a usual thing 
when the warp count is the above 
amount, the size of yarn used is 60-1. 
Fabrics wherein silk is used for warp 
or filling are generally of narrow width, 
although during the past year or so 
there has been an increase in the 
amount of wider cloths made. It may 
be well to make mention of the fact 
that most of the ground weaves 
where patterns are made are plain 
weaves. This is done because it makes 
a firmer ground and makes it less 
necessary to have a high count. As 
there is a large sale at present for 
silk brocades there has been a line of 
fahrics brought out to imitate them, 
which are called silk and cot- 



310 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ton brocades. These have a satin 
ground in which the filling floats, giv- 
ing an appearance very similar to 
many all-silk fabrics. Because the 
ground weave is satin it is necessary 
to have the cloth count higher than 
if the cloth weave is plain. This will 
be noted when it is pointed out that 
the count on this fabric is 112 x 116 
in the grey state. The weaves used 
are very simple, although the effect is 
quite striking, due to the contrasting 
colors. 

CLOTHS DETAILS. 

The fabric we have analyzed is of 
course made on a jacquard machine, 
and it may be well to give a few facts 
regarding its construction. The loom 
on which this cloth was made is call- 
ed a 400-jacquard. In this machine 
there are eight hooks in a row and 
50 rows in the head. Without doubt 
it was made on a double lift machine 
which contains actually 800 hooks, but 
there are two hooks which operate 
on each neck cord and which allow 
the loom to be operated at a faster 
speed than would otherwise b? pos- 
sible. Even though there are 800 
hooks in the machine it actually 
works as a 400-heid. The maelr'ne 
Is tied up in the comber board 120 
threads per inch, giving 3 1-3 inches, 
the width of the tie-up in the comber 
board : 

400 -*- 120 = 3%", width Of tie-up. 

In making this cloth a 54-reed was 
undoubtedly used. This sives the num- 
ber of dents in the reed as 180: 

64 reed X 3%" = 180 dents. 

180 dents X 2 ends In a dent = 360 ends 

in the repeat, or 360 hooks to use. 
400 hooks — 360 hooks = 40 hooks cast out. 
40 hooks -*- 8 hooks in a row = 5 rows 

cast out. 

There are various methods of cast- 
ing out hooks not used In making a 
cloth, but where there are so few 
cast out as in the present instance it 
does not make very much difference 
where they are cast out, although 
it can be said that it is hotter to c^st 
out more than two or three rows in 
any one place, and to make it more 
convenient in cutting the card3 it is 
better to cast them out at the end 
of each half machine, that is, to cast 



out the 24th and 25th row in the first 
half of the machine, and the 48th. 
49th and 50th rows in the last half 
of the machine. 

There is another item which some- 
times is of importance, but which in 
this cloth makes little difference. This 
relates to the spacing of the warp in 
the comber board. To make a warp 
run as well as possible it is always 
best to balance the cloth in the ma- 
chine. Inasmuch as there are 2 ; 876 
ends in the warp, not including the 
selvage, as these are operated sepa- 
rately from the main warp, the proc- 
ess is as follows: 

2.87G -»■ "CO ends in the repeat = 7 sections 
+ 35 6 ends. 

Assuming that the jacquard is tied 
up 40 inches wide this gives 12 sec- 
tions at 31-3 inches each. Then we 
have 

12 sections — (7 sections 4- 356 ends) = 4 
sections + 4 ends. 

Therefore, to space the warp in the 
proper position two sections and two 
ends could be left out on each side of 
the warp, or, in other words, if the 
warp be started on the second hook 
in the third section the spacing 
would be as nearly correct as pos- 
sible. Naturally, the warp would end 
up two hooks before the last hook to 
be used on the tenth section. . As 
stated previously, this does not make 
very much difference when the pat- 
terns are all-over ohps. hut where 
stripes are used, either in color or in 
the white state, patterns should be 
balanced as carefully as they are when 
making dobby patterns. This is not 
always d<~me. but when i f is ^np it is 
sometimes an aid in selling the cloth, 
as it gives a better balanced appear- 
ance. 

DESIGN MAKING. 

For all patterns similar to that used 
on the sample analyzed it is neces- 
sary to make up a jacquard design. 
This is done in a number of methods 
to suit the needs of the situation, but 
the usual method is as follows: In 
the first p!ace a cloth sketch is made 
un with the figures painted so as to 
show the effect desired when finished, 
this cloth sketch represents the de- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



211 



sign in the finished cloth rnd is usu- 
ally made the width of the finished 
pattern. From this cloth sketch the 
design is enlarged and placed on de- 
sign or point paper. This is done by 
enlargement. In the first place the de- 
sign tor this cloth would be ru'ed up 
into 45 squore inches in the warp di- 
rection, eacli small square represent- 
ing one large square in the design 
paper, and when this has been done 
the outlines of the patterns are 
transferred. The design paper is usu- 
ally made to correspond with the 
cloth count, but each square in the 
warp must be ruled off in eighths to 
correspond with the eight hooks in a 
row which the machine contains. 

When the outline has iieen trans- 
ferred the weave is painted in either 
by the one who transfers the pat- 
tern or by another party. This is 
not a very intricate process on such 
a cloth as the one analyzed, although 
the effect depends somewhat on the 
carefulness employed in making the 
various weaves join. It is, however, 
a tedious undertaking and consumes 
quite a little time. Sometimes where 
satin weave grounds are employed 
the design paper already has a satin 
weave dotted in, and this makes it 
unnecessary to paint in the ground 
weave. When the design has beei. 
painted in, it is given to th" card cut- 
ter. This operative cuts the weave 
upon a card, which operates the 
hooks of the jacquard head. Each 
card represents one pick, and each 
square in the design paper represents 
one hook in the machine, and each 
large square in the design paper rep- 
resents one row in 

THE JACQUARD HEAD. 

When the cards are all cut the 
number is equal to the number of 
picks of the pattern as painted. These 
cards are taken to a card lacinsr ma- 
chine. This machine laces them to- 
gether in a continuous manner, so 
that they follow one another on the 
cylinder of the jacquard head when 
in operation. This completes the proc- 
ess and the operation of the hooks 
in the machine by the cards as punch- 
ed will produce the pattern. This 
sample set of cards is usually oper- 
ated in producing a sample piece of 



cloth. When an order is obtained it 
is customary to use quite a number 
of looms in making and this necessi- 
tates a number of sets of cards, one for 
each loom. These are produced on 
what is called a card repeater. This 
machine is no more nor less than a 
card-cutting machine on which the 
sample set of cards are placed and 
wherein a whole duplicate card is 
cut at once instead of cutting a row 
at once, as is done on the original 
card cutter, and this saves quite a 
little time and lowers the cost. These 
machines are practically always used 
when mills are of any size. 

METHODS OF FINISHING. 

It may be well to mention the fact 
that the finishing of these silk and 
cotton cloths has improved quite a 
good deal in the last few years, and 
this mt.kes them all the more desir- 
able in their field. Of late it has be- 
come a general practice to use fast 
colored cotton yarn for making 
stripes, cords, and checks, and these 
additions improve the cloth appear- 
ance a great deal and make a larger 
sale possible. Before fast colors were 
in use colors could not be used to any 
extent, because practically all these 
cloths are woven in the grey and 
bleached after the cloth is woven. 
There are very many methods of fin- 
ishing these fabrics. Probably most 
of them are dyed in solid colors, 
these colors changing from season to 
season, depending on the demand. 
They are also finished in a white state, 
and some seasons they are sold with 
various printed patterns upon them, 
which in many cases add to 
their attractiveness and aid in the 
sale. These cloths are also cross 
dypd. This is possible because silk 
and cotton can be dyed in different 
methods. Certain colors which are 
attracted to cotton will not affect silk, 
and "ice versa. 

In this manner it is possible to dye 
cotton one color and silk another, or 
it is possible to dye cotton one color 
and leave the silk in a pure white 
sta f p Tlrs has b^^n done with the 
sample analyzed. The cotton has been 
dyed black while the silk remains 
white, making the two yarns show a 
great contrast. This process is being 



312 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOS8ARY 



adopted not only in silk and cotton called theoretical, but it is one which 

fabrics, where there is all-silk warp is used as a protection against varia- 

or filling, but also where there are tion in size by the manufacturer, and 

stripes or checks in silk, sucn as voiles is most always somewhat heavier 

and poplins. Without doubt, the in- than the yarn is likely to be. Inas- 

crease in ingenuity in methods of much as the silk filling yarn cost is 

making cloth attractive by the finish- such a large percentage of the total 

ing and dyeing processes has had cloth cost, any great variation in the 

much to do with the increase in sale price of this material will affect 

of high-class novelty fabrics. that of the cloth quite a little. The 

CLOTH AND YARN WEIGHTS. P rioe we nave S iven w *s the market 

t* ™„,, »»„ ,•,,+..-«„+« * i ™ 1.1. price at one time, but it has been in- 

It may be interesting to know the p reasine: auite rar>idlv Thp met hod 

process for obtaining the weight of c J ea . sin . g qu * ra P ldl y- inemetnoa 

the yarns and of the cloth The of finding the various weights is as 

weight as figured is for the cloth as tollows - 

it comes from the loom and not for 2 956 ends ^ 0/1 x g40) = 0686 wan) 
it in a finished state. When finished weight without take-up. 

the cloth is quite a good deal lighter 4 l & s take - , i? ln w n1^ in f ♦ , . ,.♦ • ««« 

♦u„« „,v,„~ ^„..«_ mi.- i- .0586 -■- .96 = .0610, total weight of 60/1 

than when woven. This occurs be- in 1 yard of woven cloth. 

cause the warp yarn loses in the fin- 116 p' cks x 27 " reed width x 36" 

ishing process, and the silk filling j^" 3,1S2 

loses a certain percentage of gum yards of fining per yard of cioth. 

which it contained when it is used in ■*& tm™ per #£ V"ci,;K? 4 ' we,Bht ° f 

the loom. The yardage of the silk -ogio + .0224 = .0834, total weight per 

as used is not that which might be J^*"* .0834 = 11.99 yards per pound. 

PATTERN. 
60/1 Am. combed warp, 2,956 ends. 
14/16 2-thread Canton silk filling, 116 picks. 

54 reed, 27" width in reed, 26" grey width, 25%" finished width. 
112 X 116, grey count, 113 X 112, finished count. 

TARNS. 

„„ .. . _ . „ Cotton. Labor, waste, etc. 

60/1 Am. combed, 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 24c. 16%c. = 40MsC 

14/16 2-thread Canton silk, 140,000 yards per lb., on quills = $3.65 

COST. 

2,956 ends 60/1 Am. combed + 4% take-up = .0640 @ 40%c = $ 0247 

116 picks 14/16 2-thread Canton silk = .0224 @ $3.65 = .0818 

Weaving .0204 

Expenses .0278 

Jacquard cards .0021 

* 156S 
Selling .0031 

„ , $ .1599 

Price to converter (about) .1700 

Finishing, etc !o250 

Cost to converter $ .1950 

Price to retailer (about) $ .2750 

Price to consumer, 4 0c. 

Yards per pound, 11.99 (grey). 

♦-»-•> 

MnfftWAT WUAVr TflDDV growth and has taken quite a time 

UlrVuUnilL HMiIJ IIjIUU to become as large as it is, for it has 

m Am rr affected all materials to a greater or 

uLOIH less extent - Few have realized until 

recently just how large this use has 

During the past year or so there been, but the recent showings of new 

has been a great increase in the num- fabrics for next summer's use by the 

ber of novelty fabrics of various de- largre retailers have only served to ac- 

scrlptions which have been used for centuate the situation. Most of the 

dress goods. This use has been a fabrics which have a run as large as 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



313 



wponge, and this includes all the 
cloths of a similar nature, have to be 
made better or different continually 
until there is no longer a sale for 
them. 

When these cloths wore first pro- 
duced, anything which had a sem- 
blance of novelty yarn in its construc- 
tion was sold and at a high profit, 
but as time went on, more of such 
cloths were sold and the prices were 
less reasonable, and to make the fab- 
rics attractive they had to be made 
in patterns or in combination with 



the other one. It can be said that 
the cloth analyzed shows as great a 
difference between the cost of mak- 
ing and the retail selling price as 
any fabric which has been seen in 
years. That retailers expect quite a 
large sale is shown by the large quan- 
tity and the varied colorings which 
they are offering on this fabric. The 
cloth has a very attractive appear- 
ance and is well made, and the col- 
ors are the ones which should have 
a sale, but the price of the cloth 
shows as high a profit from its style 







Diagonal Weave Terry Cloth. 



other good selling materials. Most 
of the cloths which are now being 
shown contain novelty yarns, but they 
are used in some kind of a pattern 
with other cloths, such as crepes and 
voiles, or dyed in such a manner that 
they show quite a radical difference 
over those formerly sola. 

One fabric which shows a combina- 
tion of ideas is the one which we 
have illustrated. This fabric contains 
the terry cloth idea and is made in a 
better constructed fabric than Is 
usually seen, and inasmuch as diag- 
onals in the cut form have been i In 
large demand in woolen fabrics, this 
cloth contains this idea together with 



exclusiveness, and as little profit from 
its actual cloth value, as any which 
have appeared recently. 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTION. 

In many respects this fabric is no 
different from the ones used for ordi- 
nary Turkish towels. The yarns are 
of somewhat different sizes and the 
cloth construction is changed so as 
to be more suitable for dress goods, 
but the general effect Is that seen in 
the above-named fabrics. Combed 
varns have been used in the cloth, and 
tbe rieht combinations of yarns and 
the correct amount of tw'st have been 



314 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



given to produce a cloth which has 
the soft feel noted in the fabric an- 
alyzed. 

Terry cloths are, ordinarily, pro- 
duced on special looms, which can 
make them easily and cheaply, but 
this cloth was not made in this man- 
ner. In making an ordinary towel, 
the weave is such that a loose warp 
is bound into the threads, and by an 
arrangement of the reed or warp an 
open space is left in the fabric, and 
then the few picks, together with ex- 
tra yarn, are pushed on into the cloth, 
making the loops ordinarily noted. 
The same general idea i.as been used 
in making this cloth, excepting that 
a different loom is used in weaving, 
one which weaves a wire into the 
cloth over which the loops pass and 
then the wire is drawn out, leaving 
the loops fast in the fabric. This 
method of weaving makes a some- 
what better fabric and can be distin- 
guished easily by examining the 
cloth carefully. 

On an ordinary terry cloth the loop 
will be forced to that side of the clotn 
necessary through the nlliug under- 
neath it, that is, a loop will not go 
down through the fabric if the filling 
underneath forces it to the face. In 
this cloth the picks, which are wires, 
are designated on the right hand side 
of the design, and where the loons 
are on the face are indicated by the 
squares being filled in. It will be 
noticed that the loop yarn is on the 
back of the cloth, both before and 
after the loop is formed, and unless 
held up by the weaving of wire, or 
in some other similar method, the 
loop would go, if made in the ordi- 
nary terry manner, to the back of the 
fabric. The twill or diagonal is 
formed by having one thread out of 
four in the loop yarn remain down 
in . successive steps across the fabric. 
The take-up on this loop yarn varies 
a great deal when fancy figures are 
being woven, and. therefore, each 
thread often has to have a different 
spool or holder. This policy is taken 
when making carpets, and this fabric 
is no different from many carpet fab- 
rics, excenting that the weave is very 
simple in comparison, and because 
the weave Is simple the loop yarn can 
be placed on a single beam, or, If a 



single beam causes trouble, at most 
only four loop beams are necessary. 

WEAVE. 

It will be noted that the ground 
yarn, that is, the warp which forms 
the base of the fabric, and the filling 
which weaves in with it are of com- 
paratively fine sizes in comparison 
with the loop yarn. This is done so 
as to give a rather heavy appearing 
face with rather stiff loops and the 
full effect which is so desirable. As 
we have previously stated, the lines 
to t he right of the design indicate 
where wires are placed in the cloth, 
which are afterward removed, while 
the lines at the top of the design in- 
dicate which threads are the loop 
yarn. This yar:> is drawn in two-ply 
and is equal to ordinary 6-1. It will 
be noticed that the ground threads 
and picks all weave plain. There are 
three threads between each thread of 
loop yarn, and if the loop yarn is re- 
moved from the fabric it will be found 
that absolutely nothing remains but 
plain cloth composed of S5-1 warp and 
40-1 filling, although, of course, there 
will be open spaces where the loop 
yarn was removed. The weave, how- 
ever, will join and be the ordinary 
plain fabric. 

So far as the actual weave In the 
cloth is concerned, if it be picked 
out, it will be that with the fourth, 
eighth, 12th and 16th nicks in onr 
weave removed, for in the cloth as it 
stands there is no pick underneath 
this loop and, therefore, it would not 
appear. To produce this fabric the 
number of harnesses needed will be 
comparatively few, because the 
ground is nothing but plain weave and 
would take onlv four harnesses, while 
the loop threads repeat on four har- 
nesses, thus the fabric could be pro- 
duced on an ordinary dobby attach- 
ment. 

An effect very similar to this idea 
might be produced on an ordinary 
towel loom if the same construction 
were tipp<1. aHhrmeh +>i° wave would 
have to be slightly different t° throw 
the loops onto the surface in the same 
positions as those noted on the cloth 
analyzed. Possibly, the resulting ef- 
fect might not be quite so satlsfac- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



S15 



tory, but It would be so near the one 
analyzed that the ordinary consumer 
could hardly det ct the difference, es- 
pecially if intelligence were used in 
getting up the cloth construction. 
CLOTH PRICE. 

We have already made mention of 
the cost of production and the pres- 
ent selling price, and have stated 
that the difference between the cost 
and the selling price is about as wide 
as ever noted. As any fabric cost is 
based fundamentally on the yarn 
prices, an ordinary mill would not 
have a cost for yarn differing very 
much from that which we have given. 
In our weaving cost and expenses we 
huve used conservative amounts and 
oce3 which should be noted on mak- 
ing a cloth of this character. The 
looms per weaver are fewer, the loom 
speed in picks per minute is less, 
while the percentage of production is 
somewhat smaller than for ordinary 
fabrics, although it should be higher 
than for most, if not practically all 
of the fabrics made in which wires 
are used. Then, in addition to the 
above facts, is the one that the picks 
per inch are actually quite a little 
higher than the number given in our 
analysis would indicate, due to the 
placing of wires in the cloth. 

All these facts have been consid- 
ered in arriving at the price for weav- 
ing and expenses. In no case should 
the total cost of making in the grey 
state be over 21 or 22 cents, even if 
made in very small quantities and in 
an extravagant manner. The cost of 
finishing should also be comparatively 
small, because many ordinary towel- 
ing fabrics which have been bleached, 
dyed and sold recently in th3 domestic 
market have been finished for less 
than 2 cents per yard, and it is un- 
likely that this fabric costs much more 
than this amount, although we have 
been conservative in the amount add- 
ed for finishing. 

Even if a mill sold this fabric in 
the grey state for 25 cent3 per yard, 
a very large profit would be secured, 
because the total number of ricks is 
comparatively small and the loom pro- 
duction in yards must be quite large. 
The fabric was probably sold in the 
grey state and finished by a converter, 
because it is a piece-dyed fabric. 



Without any question, the retail 
selling price on this fabric is at least 
from 10 to 12 times the cost of pro- 
duction, including the dyeing and fin- 
ishing and cloth makers' profits. 
Such a fabric as this, and one show- 
ing as great a difference between cost 
of making and selling price, can be 
produced in other methods than by the 
use of wires or on the terry cloth 
principals. 

This fabric can easily be woven On 
an ordinary dobby loom. Whenever a 
loop is desired, a heavy silk cord can 
be introduced into the cloth, and 
then, before the cloth is finished and 
dyed, it can be run into a bath of 
caustic, and this silk yarn will be 
eaten out, leaving the loops in a sim- 
ilar manner to those noted in the 
cloth analyzed. Silk for this purpose, 
if used in a fabric constructed as that 
analyzed, would not cost over 20 
cents per yard, and, what is more, the 
weaving price per yard, if silk were 
used in this manner on an ordinary 
dobby loom, would be likely to be less 
than the amount we have allowed for 
the weaving price for this cloth. Of 
course, silk could not be used if the 
retail price and other selling prices 
were not so high, but without doubt 
for 50 cents per yard this fabric could 
be made in just as satisfactory a man- 
ner as the one considered and show 
quite a little profit to the manufactur- 
er. Another method would be to use 
a smooth cotton yarn and a rather 
loose tension on the loop yarn warp, 
and when the cloth was woven to have 
operatives pull out the cotton threads 
which held up the loops. 

Even this extra cost would not 
nearly equal the 20 cents per yard, 
if silk were used to make the loops. 
This is one subject which the 

AMERICAN MANUFACTURER 

has entirely neglected in the march of 
progress. He does not feel inclined to 
go into the making of novelty cloth to 
as great an extent as the European 
manufacturers and confines himself to 
the fabrics which can be produced in 
large quantities, making his profits 
through the small profits per yard on 
large quantities rather than on the 
large profits per yard on small 
quantities. 



316 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



The American cotton cloth industry 
has progressed so rapidly that there 
has been a decided shortage of men 
capable of using their brains in de- 
veloping new fabrics which show a 
decided difference from those ordi- 
narily produced, and the men who 
have this ability are in such demand 
with the large cloth makers that they 
have been better off financially to ap- 
ply their energy in this direction, 
rather than in working for themselves 
in a small way. The time is coming, 
however, when much of this work will 
be done in American mills by Ameri- 
can manufacturers, and if their im- 
provement in lowering cost on ordi- 
nary plain and fancy fabrics is to be 
taken as any indication of the future, 
it is very likely that they will soon be 
beating the world not only in style but 
also in price. 

CLOTH WIDTHS. 

One matter which deserves notice 
is that concerning the cloth widths on 
imported fancy fabrics. It is seldom 
that the width of any imported fancy 
cloth is less than 40 inches, and most 
of them are from 45 to 50 inches in the 
finished state. American fancy cloths 
are more often from 25 to 28 inches 
wide in the finished state. Of course, 
shirtings and some other lines are 
from 31 to 36 inches wide finished, 
but they are not the so-called fancy 
fabrics in many instances. It is be- 
lieved that American buyers have 
been largely responsible for the tend- 
ency which has developed fancy 
cloths in narrow widths, and set 
prices have probably been at the bot- 
tom of the custom. If the price of 
making advances for any reason in 
fancy fabrics is considered too high, 
the buyer is likely to ask for a cloth 
of an inch or so narrower width, and 
this may bring it within his range of 
prices. 

We have often seen a new fabric 
offered to buyers at a certain price 
for a certain width, and because it 
did not come within his price range 
and still was a desirable fabric, he 
would have it made up an inch or so 
narrower, and then purchase. All the 
time the buyer does not realize that 
he is losing money, and as consumers 
have to purchase the fabrics which 



are offered to them, they also do not 
realize that there is a largo waste in 
economy. This occurs because most 
fancy mills can make fabrics in the 
grey state at least 36 inches wide, and 
many of them will finish about the 
same width. As a usual thing the 
price paid for weaving and the ex- 
penses per loom are no different per 
yard for a 36-inch cloth than they are 
for a 27 or 28 inch one. 
In certain mills where 

COLORED FABRICS 
are woven, there is a different scale 
of prices for weaving different 
widths of cloth, but this generally is 
not true for grey cloths. Often a 
slight difference in percentage of pro- 
duction is allowed in figuring a weav- 




Weave Plan. . 

er's wages when a wide cloth is to be 
woven, but a buyer will obtain a 36- 
inch fabric at fully 25 per cent less 
cost for weaving and expenses than on 
the narrower fabrics. In other 
words, the extra cost of the wider fab- 
ric will include practically nothing but 
the extra cost due to the extra ma- 
terial for producing the wider width. 
European manufacturers found this 
out quite a while ago, and it is sur- 
prising that more American manufac- 
turers have not brought it to the buy- 
ers' attention, with a consequent sav- 
ine in profits to themselves and to con- 
sumers. 

CLOTH WEIGHT. 
It will be readily recognized that 
the analysis of the fabric such as 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



817 



the one considered must be some- 
what different than that of ordinary 
fahrics. In the first place, the obtain- 
ing of the yarn sizes is accomplished 
in exactly the same manner as that 
of an ordinary plain fabric. Where 
the difference occurs is in the take- 
ups on the various yarns. Of course, 
the loop yarn will have a large take- 
up, and the correct basis for estimat- 
ing these take-ups must be used. 
Some sellers are accustomed to use 
a take-up by adding a certain per- 
centage over 100 per cent to the yarn, 
but when the take-ups are as large 
as they are in a fabric of this charac- 
ter, the results are absolutely incor- 
rect. The original length of the yarn 
should be considered 100 per cent, 
and the take-up should be the diff r- 
ence between the original length and 
the resulting length of cloth into 



which it is woven. On such a basis, 
results cannot be very inaccurate, and 
under such a basis, we have obtained 
the following results: 

2,115 ends -*- (35/1 X 840) = .0719, weight 

of 35/1 warp without take-up. 
16% take-up In weaving. 
.0719 -s- .84 = .0856, total weight of 35/1 

warp per yard of cloth. 
1,408 ends -4- (24/2 X 840) = .1397, weight 

of 24/2 warp without take-up. 
60% take-up in weaving. 
.1397 -5- .40 = .3492, total weight of 24/2 

warp per yard of cloth. 
128 ends -s- (50/2 X 840) = .0061. weight 

of 50/2 warp without take-up. 
6% take-up in weaving. 
.0061 -i- .94 = .0065. total weight of 50/2 

warp per yard of cloth. 
44 picks X 48" reed width X 36" 



36" 

yards of filling per yard of cloth. 
2,112 -=- (40/1 X S40) = .0629, total 

of 40/1 filling per yard of cloth. 
.0856 -f .3492 + .0065 -4- .0629 = 

total weight per yard. 
1.0000 -^ .5042 = 1.98 yards per 

(grey). 



2.112 

weight 

.5042, 

pound. 



35/1 Am. combed warp. 
24/2 Am. combed warp. 



50/2 Am. combed warp. 



P. 

2 


4.TT1 


:rn. 

3 


2 


3 




2 


1 


32 


32 



2,115 
1,408 



40/1 Am. combed filling, 44 picks per inch. 
30 reed, 48" width in reed, 4zy 2 " finished width. 
85 X 46 all over finished count. 

YARNS. 



704 X 



35/1 Am. combed warp, 
24/2 Am. combed warp, 
50/2 Am. combed warp, 



1%" 
1%" 
1 3-16" 



40/1 Am. combed warp, 1*4" 



Cotton, 
sta. ; 7 hank dou. rov., 16c. 
sta. ; 5 hank dou. rov., 16c. 
sta.; 10 hank dou. rov., 18c. 
sta.; 9V4 hank dou. rov., 16c. 

COST. 



Labor, 
waste, 

etc. 
lie. 

8%c. 

i5y 2 c. 

10%c. 



Twist- 
ing. 



l%c. 
2%c. 



1,408 ends 24/2 Am. combed -f 60% take-up = .0856 @ 27c. 

2,115 ends 35/1 Am. combed + 16% take-up = .3492 @ 25%c. 

128 ends 50/2 Am. combed + 6% take-up = .0065 @ 36 Vic. 

44 picks 40/1 Am. combed = .0629 @ 26 Vic 

Weaving 

Expenses .....!! 



= 27c. 
= 25 %c. 
= 36%c. 
= 26&c. 



$ .0231 
.0899 
.0024 
.0167 
.0411 
.0214 

$ .1946 
.0040 



Selling 

Net mill cost (grey) * 1986 

Bleaching, dyeing, etc ......!!.!!! !o300 



Finished cost (not including any profits) . 
Retail price, $3 per yard. 
Yards per pound, 1.98 (grey). 

■++-+ 



$ .2286 



NOVELTY COTTON EPONGE 

For the past two years there has 
been a large and increasing demand 
for eponge or fabrics of a similar 
nature not only those which are made 
from cotton, but also those produced 



from wool and silk. The spring offer- 
ings of high-class cotton fabrics con- 
tain more variations of the above 
named cloth than they do of any other 
single idea, although in many in- 
stances the novelty construction is 
used in combination with other fabrics 
to give style to them. Because cotton 



318 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



yarns are comparatively cheap and 
variation in size can be obtained 
easily so as to give good effects, it 
can be said that the range of ideas 
being offered in cotton cloths is far 
wider than it is in any other material. 
Yarns made from wool are rather ex- 
pensive and are usually of heavy size 
and, in many cases, the yarn resulting 
from the twisting operation is so 



it may be well to present an analysis 
of a cloth which shows decided dif- 
ferences from any which we have 
formerly treated and which is of 
quite a little interest at the present 
time. The cloth we have analyzed 
is the cheapest, the best and one 
of the largest selling, if not the 
largest selling, of any shown in 
the whole list of new imported 






■ 



+-V»;\ 



V ' •¥ 



*," 



(..' 



> V ■ J*^*'. 









■■■- '■ *■;/-• >■■', 

i ■-' - -^ri. -i ■ 

- 



Wa 






\.<\V 






; 






I 

i - % 1 ^k. _ ... .V - *» * -.si. 

Novelty Cotton Eponge. 






*$aI 



heavy that cloth woven from it is not 
entirely satisfactory, although there 
are a goodly number of wool eponges 
being sold to-day. 

SILK YARNS. 

Silk yarns have the fine size which 
is desirable, but they are smooth and 
slippery and novelty twists in them 
do not weave well. Besides, an 
eponge fabric is necessarily rather 
heavy, so as to help in the general 
effect, and the large use of silk in any 
fabric makes the product rather pro- 
hibited in price. It is, therefore, 
plain that in cotton, or cotton in 
combination with other materials, the 
large sale will take place and the 
best effects be produced. Inasmuch 
as this fabric is being so widely used 



styles for next spring and sum- 
mer wear. When we say the cheap- 
est we do not necessarily mean at a 
low price, but when the cost of pro- 
duction is compared with the retail 
selling price, and by the best we mean 
that the cloth contains certain novel 
features which place it in the van in 
its individual field. In other words, 
the value of an eponge cannot be com- 
pared with that of a voile, crepe, silk 
or other kind of fabric either in style 
or selling price. 

Different cloth constructions make 
such a comparison of little value, al- 
though the ratio between cost of 
manufacture and selling price is 
often interesting, but even this will 
vary, depending upon market condi- 
tions and demand. It can bo stated 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



319 



as a fact that the cloth analyzed, 
which sells at $1.50 a yard, is 
selling at a very much lower compara- 
tive price to the cost of manufacture 
than many others which are selling at 
$3 and over a yard, and, without doubt, 
this cloth could be sold in just as large 
quantity as is now noted at $1 cr more 
a yard than is being asked; that is, it 
would show better value at $2.50 a 
yard than many of them which are 
now selling at this price. It contains 
certain novel features which piece it 
in a different class from many others, 
it costs more than others to produce 
and besides it is in style. These fea- 
tures should warrant a higher price 
than is now being obtained for it. 

, EPONGE CONSTRUCTIONS. 

In a general way, most fabrics of 
this class contain a very small num- 
ber of threads and picks per inch, 
much fewer than most ordinary fab- 
rics. This is a natural condition, be- 
cause the novelty yarns which are 
used are rather coarse in size, and 
the low count of the cloth aids in 
giving the effects desired. It is often 
possible to use a much lower count 
in such fabrics than it is in other 
classes of materials, simply because 
the irregularity of the yarn decreases 
the possibilities of slipping and 
makes quite a firm construction. A 
novelty yarn fabric with a certain 
size of yarn would be a much firmer 
fabric than a voile containing the 
same size of yarn for very evident 
reasons. Eponges are made of grey 
yarns, which are woven, and then the 
doth is bleached or dyed. They are 
made from bleached and dyed yarns, 
and it is from these materials that 
possibly the widest variety and the 
best cloth effects appear. In some 
..instances, the cloths are made from 
yarns which contain stock-dyed cot- 
ton, but this is not nearly as common 
a process as that wherein the yarns 
are bleached or dyed. 

,; TARNS OF GREAT VARIETY. 

The yarns which compose the fab- 
rics are of great varietv, for they 
are. made from the diffprent materials 
in combination, from different colors 
Of the same or different sizes of 



yarn, and besides, the yarns are made 
in radically different methods, such 
as are noted in corkscrew, nub, loop 
and slub in endless variety. To de- 
velop a yarn which laoks well in the 
cloth and still creates no great 
amount of trouble in weaving is by 
far the most important problem in 
the production of eponge cloths. It 
often happens that a yarn can be 
made which looks well before it is 
handled or woven but which will not 
give a satisfactory cloth. As a good 
many of such novelty yarns are made 
by two twisting operations, the last 
being for the purpose of binding, it 
is necessary to have the right 
amount of twist, or the effect produc- 
ed is not the best which it is possible 
to obtain with the yarns used. 

Sometimes special machinery is 
necessary in the production of yarns 
of this character, and at other times 
they can be successfully made on an 
ordinary spinning frame, although 
sometimes this is impossible, simply 
because spinning frames are not 
available, inasmuch as they are pro- 
ducing single yarns and cannot be 
spared even if the novelty yarns are 
responsible for a higher profit. 

Of course, the most interesting fea- 
ture regarding the fabric analyzed is 
that which relates to the yarns which 
are used, and the method by which 
they are made, but, in addition to this 
feature, is the one that the cloth con- 
tains a pattern which is made by the 
use of yarns in which different colors 
have been used for the nubs. The 
warp contains novelty yarn in pat- 
terns, as will be noted from the warp- 
ing plan given in the analysis, and is 
made from yellow and black yarn for 
nubs, while the filling contains novelty 
yarn on which all the nubs are blue. 
This in itself makes a novelty fabric 
and much different from the majority 
of such cloths. 

In the consideration of the novelty 
yarn we will assume that the single 
yarns are all normal, or that 
they are in no case different from 
those noted in ordinary cloths. 
Through the spinning operation this 
causes no changes from those noted 
in an ordinary mill. In the first twist- 
ing operation two ends of 50s-l are 
used as a ground thread, while the 



320 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ll%s-l, which is delivered by a sep- 
arate set of rolls and is about 100 
per cent faster than the 50s- 1, twists 
around the outside of the two ground 
threads. Twisters making novelty 
yarns always contain two or more 
sets of delivery rolls, so as to feed 
the yarns at the correct speeds. 

It will easily be seen that the yarn 
produced from the above process can- 
not be used in weaving, tor the heavy 
yarn which twists around the ground 
threads will slip and be generally un- 
satisfactory, and, besides, it will not 
contain the loop effect so desirable at 
present. To make this loop effect 
more prominent, this loose corkscrew 
yarn is usually taken and twisted 
again with another fine yarn but in the 
opposite direction to thcc of the first 
twisting process, and while this sec- 
ond twisting operation binds the yarn 
firmly so that it can be woven it also 
makes the loops quite prominent for 
the untwisting operation and loosens 
up the heavy yarn which makes the 
corkscrew. This is the process which 
is employed on many of the yarns used 
in the ordinary cotton eponges. In the 
yarn which is used in 

THE CLOTH ANALYZED 

the second twisting process shows a 
decided difference from that noted 
in most cotton eponge yarns and such 
as that described above. Instead of 
the binding thread in the second 
twisting operation being for binding 
purposes alone it is also used to form 
the colored nub. This binding yarn 
is of colored two-ply spun silk. 

One advantage noted is that the 
roughness of the yarn produced in 
the first twisting operation partially 
covers up the silk yarn between the 
nubs, although the silk binds the 
loops and permits satisfactory weav- 
ing. Yarn nubs, such as are noted in 
the fabric considered, are made in two 
methods, which might be called iden- 
tical. In one method both yarns are 
fed by rolls regularly but at different 
speeds, and a slide or guide follows 
the ground yarn down a certain dis- 
tance, placing the extra yarn, which, 
of course, forms the bunch, in one 
spot. Often when such a machine as 
the one described is used, more than 
one color of yarn is utilized, which is 



delivered extra, and this results in a 
number of nubs of different colors. 

The other method of production is 
to have the nub yarn delivered reg- 
ularly, while the ground yarn is de- 
livered irregularly; tnat is, the latter 
will move forward a short distance 
and then stop, while a nub is formed 
by the extra yarn which runs stead- 
ily and then the ground yarn will 
luovw lorward afc&iii, and the process 
is repeated. la the yarn used, the 
silk which forms the nubs has been 
delivered about 60 per cent faster 
than the corkscrew yarn which forms 
the base or ground yarn in the sec- 
ond twisting operation. Mercerized 
yarns are used extensively in the 
production of cotton yarns for use in 
eponge, and, of late, colored silk is 
being used to a certain extent. In a 
general way, carded yarns are more 
widely used than combed yarns, be- 
cause their irregularity in many cases 
adds to the attractiveness of the fab- 
ric when woven. 

YARN COST. 

There are a good many items which 
are likely to affect the cost of making 
novelty yarns of any kind. In the first 
place, the production is usually limited 
in volume, and this naturally affects 
the price. In addition to the small 
quantity made there is the cost of ex- 
perimentation, which will vary widely 
for different yarns and which is not 
necessary on ordinary ones. It is also 
true that operatives run fewer spin- 
dles than they do on ordinary work, 
and for this reason, the actual labor 
cost a pound is high. While the op- 
eratives run fewer spindles than Is 
usually the case, the production per 
spindle is likely to be quite large, for 
the yarns are rather heavy in size 
with comparatively few turns per inch 
twist, and this fact makes the cost 
per pound lower than if a spindle did 
not produce so much yarn. 

Even though the twisting cost per 
pound and the price of the yarns used 
be accurately known, It is quite a 
problem to obtain the cost of the 
novelty yarn, because not only is there 
the combination of three or more 
yarns at different prices, but each 
yarn has a varying take-up which af- 
fects the results radically. Inasmuch 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



321 



as the finished yarn sizes 3.87, or con- material cost is easily obtained. The 

tains 3,251 yards per pound, this yard- twisting charge; should be added to 

age will form the basis fir the total the cost of the material as found so as 

yarn cost. The to give a total novelty yarn cost. 

vjnx, rri-irv TTPd Tne weaving of most kinds of cot- 

lAftiN laivri ura ton eponge fabrics is a rather simple 

in the finished novelty yarn are as proceeding. Inasmuch as the yarn 

follows: 50s-l equals 4 per cent, contains practically all of Uie novelty 

ll^s-1 equals 48 per cent and 30s-2 features, it is usually the custom to 

6ilk equals 32 per cent. These take- weave the cloth on a plain loom and 

ups can be added to the yarn sizes, with a plain weave, for a fancy weave 

thus making them relatively heavier would not be likely to show at all. In 

PATTERN. 

Yellow nub novelty I 8) |10| I 31 | 31 1121 I 31 I 31 |10| I 81 = 384 

Black nub novelty | | | I 4| |10 | I 4| j 4| |10| I 4| | I I = 360 

19 X 744 ends. 

Blue nub noveltv filling. 17 picks. 
15 reed, 49" width In reed. 45^" width finished. 
16 X 17 finished <*ount. 

YARNS. 

Labor, waste, 
Cotton. bleaching, etc. 

BO/1 Am. combed. l%"sta.: 10 hank dou. rov., 20c. 22&C. = 42%c. 

11V&/1 Am. carded. 1Mb" sta. ; 2»4 hank dou. rov., 14c. 7%c. = 21 Mia 

30/2 spun silk, dyed and on spools $3.50 

NOVELTY YARN COST. 
Finished yarn size = 3.87, or 3,251 yards per pound. 

f 60/1 = 48/1 

Yarn sizes with take-up = < 30/2 = 20.4 

(. 11V4/1 = 5.98 
3.251 yards X 42\ic. 

= .0341 (2 ends used) = $ .0682 

48 X 840 

3.251 yards X 21 %c. 

— = .1391 

6.98 X S40 

3.251 yards X $3.50 

= .6G40 

20.4 X 840 ■ 

Material $ .8713 

Material, $.8713 + $.08 twisting = 95c. per pound, total cost. 

CLOTH COST. 

744 endp 3.87 novelty + 9% take-up = .2514 ® 95c = $ .23S8 

17 picks 3.S7 noveltv = .2562 @ 95c = .2434 

Weaving .0242 

Expenses .0064 

Net mill cost $ .5128 

Selling expenses .0350 

$ .5478 
Yards per pound. 1.97. 
Retail price, $l.!i0 per yard (imported). 
There are no profits at all considered on this cloth for either makers or sellers. 

so as to obtain their correct weight, the fabric analyzed a warp pattern 
or they can be added to the 3,251 yards has been introduced so as to add va- 
per pound, thus giving the actual riety to the effect, but the weave em- 
yards of each yarn used in producing ployed is plain. One item of interest 
one pound, or 3,251 yards of the nov- which has a good deal to do with the 
eltv v?rn. We have used the first cloth price is the cloth construction, 
method, which gives relative yarn or small number of picks used in 
sizes of 48, 5.98 and 20.4, as will be weaving the clcth. This results in a 
seen from the cloth analysis. Either large production in yards anJ conse- 
method will give the weight of each quent lowering of weaving cost, be- 
yarn which forms the novelty, and cause it is divided by a greater num- 
with tLe single yarn prices, the total ber of yards. Loom speeds are slower 



322 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



on fabrics of this character not only 
because of the yarn used but also be- 
cause the cloth is made in a rather 
wide width. 

Imported cloths are usually made 
in this manner, and actually result in 
a lower producing cost than would 
otherwise be obtained. Domestic 
manufacturers, or rather converters, 
have been inclined to cut off the 
width of the cloth when the price be- 
came prohibitive, and ia this man- 
ner, getting it within their price 
range, but this is a mistaken policy, 
so far as value is concerned, because 
the costs of making are practically 
no lower for a 27-inch cloth than they 
are for a 36 or 38 inch one. A com- 
paratively small profit per yard will 
return good dividends; that is, on 
many of the fabrics being sold at 
about 10 cents a yard, a net profit to 
the mill has to be obtained of any- 
where from a half to a cent a yard, 
if dividends be satisfactory, or, say, 
about 10 per cent of the total cost of 
making, while the same ratio or profit 
on this kind of material would be 
likely to return dividends of over 100 
per cent on the investment, due to 
the large yardage which each loom can 
produce. This cloth is practically 
ready for use when it comes from the 
loom, a fact which results from the 
use of bleached and dyed yarns. Care 
should be used in adjusting the loom 
so that the yarn breakages will be as 
few as possible, for every time a 
thread breaks the novelty twist effect 
disappears. 

Often in using novelty yarns, the 
ground yarn will break, allowing the 
effect to disappear, but the thread will 
still weave and produce a bad place 
in the fabric. This shows the impor- 
tance of using yarns of sufficient 
strength in comprising the novelty 
twist thread, for the strain comes en- 
tirely on one or two threads, thus 
making the novelty yarn no stronger 
than some rather fine two-ply yarns. 

YARN AND CLOTH WEIGHTS. 

Tho method of obtaining the yarn 
and clcth weights is exactly the same 
as for any ordinary fabrics. It is a 
good plan, if the cloth is to be dupli- 
cated exactly, to size the fini-lied yarn 
and then to analyze it, finding the 



component parts and their take-ups, 
in other words, to checK up the actual 
yarn size with the figured size, just 
the same as the actual yards of cloth 
per pound are checked up by the fig- 
ured weights of the yarns which com- 
pose it. The figured yarn size is ob- 
tained as follows, and it corresponds 
exactly with the actual size obtained 
from weighings: 

50/1 size X 96 = 48/1, the relative size. 
2 ends of 48 used = 24/1, ground yarn, rel- 

30/2 silk X .68 = 20.4/1, relative size In 

silk. 
H%/1 X .52 = 5.98/1, relative size for 

heavy yarn. 

Then applying the rule for obtaining 
the average size of yarn when three 
yarns of different sizes are used, we 
have 



24 =1 

20.4 = 1.176 
5.98 = 4.013 



6.189 
24 -h 6.189 = 3.87, completed yarn size. 

When the size of the novelty yarn 
has been obtained, the weight of the 
warp and filling and the yards per 
pound can be obtained in the follow- 
ing manner: 

744 ends -h (3.87/1 X 840) = .2288, weight 
of warp without take-up. 

9% take-up in wenving. 

.2288 -h .91 = .2514. total weight of warp 
yarn per yard of cloth. 

17 picks X 49" reed width X 36" 

— = 833 yards 

36" 
of filling per yard of cloth. 

833 -«- (3.87/1 X 840) = .2562. total weight 
of filling yarn per vard of cloth. 

.2514 + .2562 = .5076, total weight per 
yard. 

1.0000 -+- .5076 = 1.97 yards per pound (fin- 
ished). 



♦ i » 



JACQUARD EPONGE 

One general class of fabrics which 
has previously never been considered 
of any great importance in cloth sales 
is that class which is co-rposed of 
yarns of novelty construction, or at 
least contain a certain proportion of 
such yarn. That this is a very broad 
classification will be readily recog- 
nized by anyone familiar with the de- 
tails of cloth makiner, but inasmuch 
as there are no definite constructions 
used, and almost every fabric has 
certain individual features, it may be 
well to present only general ideas re- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



323 



garding the cloths and their methods 
of making. Within the past year, 
large quantities of such materials 
have been produced, and it is needless 
to state that the quality is better and 
the variety of patterns produced enor- 
mously wider than they ever have 
been in the past. 

The increased demand has been a 
gradual process, and in this way has 
been more interesting than some of 
the other recent styles that have sold 
well. Sellers expected that tie idea 
would be short-lived when first of- 



fabrics to composing entirely some of 
the medium and high-grade cloths and 
selling at prices which show a won- 
derful variation, even for somewhat 
similar materials. 

One feature which has been very 
evident in sales and prices is that 
very few sellers have had uiiy accu- 
rate idea regarding values or ccst of 
making, for they had absolutely no 
previous details on which to base their 
estimates, and, naturally, by the 
time these cloths have reached the 
consumer, exorbitant and unreason- 



Ik. 



S.%'. 




Jacquard Eponge. 



fered, but the production of it in wool 
and in silk, and also the necessity for 

A RADICAL CHANGE 

in style, all had an influence in the 
situation, so that to-day the novelty 
yarn idea stands preeminently first 
when the sales of high-class novelty 
cotton fabrics are considered. The 
materials are, of course, finding their 
largest distribution as a dress fabric, 
but there are many other opportuni- 
ties for advantageous use, such as the 
trimming of other sorts of materials, 
for ties, hats, coats, vests, numerous 
forms of coverings, pillows, draperies, 
in fact, the influence of the idea is 
found on all grades and prices of ma- 
terial, from decorations in the lightest 



able prices are many times noted 
That is, a fabric costing perhaps 25 
cents per yard to make may be of- 
fered to retail at $1.50 a yard, while 
another costing more than twice _ as 
much may be sold at the same price 
and all because someone in the line 
of sellers could not realize the value 
of the different fabrics. 

MATERIALS USED. 
In a general way it can be said 
• that the combinations used in making 
such yarns are numberless. They 
can be made out of cotton, wool, silk 
or even other materials, but the first 
three named form by far the largest 
portion, or practically all, of the prod- 
ucts with the fabric composed of cot- 



324 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ton easily leading. Then there are 
the various results which can be pro- 
duced by a combination of two 
of the above-mentioned materials, 
and which combinations are of value 
in lowering the cost, or in giving ef- 
fects not otherwise possible. Thus, it 
will be seen that there is a very 
good foundation for the production 
of varying results at the mill. 

In addition to the variation possible 
through the use of different materials, 
there is the vastly greater opportunity 
which is afforded by mill processes. 
Different sizes of yarns will produce 
radically different effects, and even 
the amount of twist inserted in the 
yarn has a decided influence on the 
result obtained. Most of the yarns 
used are the result of one or more 
twisting processes, but there are also 
other methods by which quantities of 
cloth are made. One process uses 
waste cotton or silk fibres and makes 
an irregular yarn and cloth. Another 
has a device which feeds in bunches 
of cotton stock to a twisting yarn, 
which twists in the cotton and holds 
it tightly, the bunches of cotton be- 
ing of any desired color. Then there 
are the various kinds of twisted yarns, 
those which contain loops, those 
which contain nubs and those in 
which there is a regular corkscrew 
effect. Not only are all the above 
made in the grey state, but they are 
also made with different colors and 
combinations of color, sometimes in a 
number of different methods on the 
same yarn. Mercerized yarns are also 
used extensively, and, recently, fast 
colors have been used, and these 
methods offer great opportunities in 
the production of certain effects at 
radical reductions in price. 

CLOTH CONSTRUCTIONS. 

Inasmuch as these novelty yarns 
are a combination of a number of 
other yarns, they are usually rather 
heavy in size, and because the yarns 
are coarse the cloth count is compara- 
tively low. It is also a fact that the 
count is low because the yarn irregu- 
larities give an additional firmness not 
noted when ordinary yarns are used, 
and through the lower count the de- 
sired effects show up to much better 



advantage. Because the ultimate yarn 
size is heavy, a good many have been 
inclined to treat the making and 
the yarn combinations in too trivial 
a manner, that is, they do not consid- 
er that practically all the strain comes 
on one or two ground threads when 
the cloth is being woven, and that 
unless due care is exercised these 
threads may break in the weaving 
process, thus allowing the loops, nubs, 
or yarn effects to disappear, although 
the thread as a whole does not break 
apart. This causes bad places in the 
cloth, which, in high-priced materi- 
als, create a second. 

In most cases, a fabric composed 
entirely of novelty yarn is made with 
plain, or at least one of the most sim- 
ple of ordinary weaves. This is done 
because the yarn constitutes largely 
the cloth effects, rather than the 
weave employed. Recently, in novelty 
yarn decorated fabrics, there has been 
quite a number of offerings of fancy 
woven figures, in addition to the ef- 
fects made by the yarn, and which 
show a great deal of adaptability on 
the part of the makers. The weaving 
of the cloth is, therefore, a compara- 
tively simple process, although the 
weaver operates a smaller number 
of looms, and the filling has to be 
changed more often, because the 
amount of yarn on a bobbin is so 
small. The yardage produced per loom, 
however, is quite large, even if the 
percentage of production be lower 
than for most cloths, because the 
picks per inch are few, and this makes 
a large yardage production and natu- 
rally aids in lowering the costs of 
making. 

YARN CONSTRUCTION. 

We have already given a general 
idea regarding the yarns used and 
their wide variety, but it may be well 
to describe in a little more detail the 
method of making one of the gen- 
eral classes noted. This is the so- 
called loop yarn, which is now used 
so extensively, although it is not 
made generally by the method em- 
ployed some time ago. In the first 
place, the yarns used in making this 
loop yarn are in most cases identical 
in construction to the warp yarn of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



325 



the sizes used, so that up to the twist- 
ing operation general yarn details ap- 
ply. 

A good many have not attempted to 
make novelty yarns, because they 
have no special twisters, but such 
equipment is not always necessary in 
a good many cases, for the same or 
similar results can often be obtained 
on an ordinary spinning frame, if such 
machine be available. In the Lrst 
twisting operation two kinds of yarn 
are used, one which is coarser than 
the other, and which is delivered by 
one set of rolls at about twice the 
speed of the rolls delivering the finer 
yarn. 

It will readily be noted that this 
coarse yarn, which is delivered faster, 
will coil around the finer ground 
threads, but unless a lot of twist be 
inserted the two yarns will slip bidly 
and be impracticable of weaving or 
handling. It will also be noted that 
no loops are formed, but only a com- 
bination of two yarns, which slip on 
one another when rubbed. In order 
to make the loops or irregularities 
and render the yarn weavable, this 
loose-twisted product is taken and 
again twisted with one or more ends, 
but in the orposite direction to that 
of the first twisting operation. This 

RETWISTING PROCESS 
loosens up the extra yarn delivered 
in the first process and makes ir- 
regular loops appear, and the binding 
down by the ends delivered in this 
second process holds the whole re- 
sult, so as to m.:ke it a practical 
yarn. The obtaining of the yarn size, 
when combinations are made in this 
manner, is sometimes rather difficult, 
but the following illustration will 
serve to show how the yarn size is ob- 
tained on one of the twisted yarna 
which has been described: 

2 ends 60/1 ground threads = 30/1 com- 
parative size. 
2 ends 30/1 loose yarn = 15/1 com- 

parative size. 
2 ends 60/1 re twist «= 30/1 com- 

p.irative size. 
30/1 ground — 30/1 

30/1 -t- 30/1 = 1.000 

15/1 + 50% take-up — 7.5/1 

30/1 -=- 7.5/1 = 4.000 

30/1 + 12% take-up — 26.4/1 

30/1 h- 26.4/1 = 1.136 



Of course, the yarn size is often 
obtained by sizing the finished result 
just the same as is ordinarily noted 
tor cotton yarn, but while this is sat- 
isfactory in obtaining the weight of 
the woven fabric, it does not permit 
the manufacturer to estimate the 
amount of the various yarns which he 
must spin so as to complete an order, 
neither does it give him even a gen- 
eral idea regarding the average cost 
of the yarn produced. As a general 
statement, the cost of making novelty 
yarns is not so high as many believe, 
especially on those kinds which have 
a regular production, because the 
twist per inch is comparatively low 
and a large poundage per spindle is 
produced. 

Naturally, two twisting processes 
for the same yarn are more expensive 
than where only one is used, but the 
price is not prohibitive, and allows a 
large profit when to-day's cloth sell- 
ing prices are considered. The largest 
cost in addition to the yarn cost is 
often noted, because of the experi- 
mentation required to produce satis- 
factory results, and this should be 
considered in the cost, because it is 
usually a special feature. The 
COST OP THE YARN 
material previously considered is ob- 
tained as follows: 

Finished yarn size 4.89/1, or 4,108 yards per 

pound. 

Yarn sizes 60/1 two ends = 30/1 

Including ] 30/1 two ends = 7.5/1 

take-up. [ 60/1 two ends = 26.4/1 

With grey yarn of the above sizes, 
costing to produce at the mill 44 1 / 4 
cents for 60-1 and 26 cents for 30-1, 
the average price of the yarn material 
would be obtained as follows: 



4,108 X 44%c. 

30/1 X 840 
4,108 X 26c. 



7.5/1 X 840 
4,108 X 44%c. 

26.4/1 X 840 



$ .0721 



= $ .1695 



$ .0819 

$ .3235, 

total cost of 
yarns used 

per pound. 



30/1 



6.136 



6.136 
4.89/1, resulting yarn size. 



The above amount is for the yarns 
alone which compose the novelty ef- 
fect, and there must be added the 



326 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



amounts of labor, expenses, insurance, 
etc., noted in twisting operations, and 
also, as previously stated, a certain 
amount as the cost of experimenta- 
tion, and which will vary widely, in 
some cases being practically nothing 
per pound, and in other cases very 
large. It is believed that a large pro- 
portion of mills which are making 
novelty yarns have been somewhat 
lax in obtaining their correct costs, 
and that if they had been more ac- 
curate in the matter a greater 
amount of cloth would have been 
made, for some of the profits received 
would have been more readily ascer- 
tainable. Only by treating each yarn 
cost separately can the correct result 
be obtained, and when the yarn costs 
are not correct, the cloth costs natu- 
rally cannot be. 

WEAVING FACTS. 

It has been previously explained 
just why most of these cloths are 
made with plain weaves, but there 
are certain other features which are 
of interest. Because of the nature of 
the cloth, the loom speed is likely to 
be somewhat less than it is on ordi- 
nary fancy cloths, but the production 
per loom is large, because there are 
so few picks per inch. The looms 
per weaver are comparatively few, 
in many fancy fabrics there being 
but one loom to a weaver. Condi- 
tions of weaving differ widely, be- 
cause of the widely varying styles of 
fabrics, and results which can be ob- 
tained on one construction in a cer- 
tain way are not always possible on 
another fabric. The more complicated 
effects are produced by the use of 
dyed and bleached yarns. 

At present retailers are selling a 
wide variety of these fabrics in the 
plainer constructions, but in order to 
continue the idea cloth makers are 
producing crepes, voiles and other 
fabrics, which contain decorations of 
novelty yarns, they are adding checks 
and fancy effects to other cloths, for 
which there is a wide sale, and they 
are using stripes which contain dif- 
ferent colors, so as to give a wider 
range of production. The idea is also 
being applied to stripes in curtain 
fabrics, and in many other ways not 



generally recognized. In fact, there 
never has been a time in the past 
when any one idea was applied to so 
many different cloths and in such 
widely varying effects as at present. 
One feature not to be lost sight of 
when novelty cloth is being sold ex- 
tensively is its effect on the future 
of cloths and the cloth-making indus- 
try. 

Without doubt the large production 
of novelty yarn fabrics will develop 
a more or less steady use of such ma- 
terials, thus creating a broader indus- 
try and 

A GREATER CHOICE 
of fabrics among consumers. It is 
being admitted to-day that voile fab- 
rics have proved such desirable ma- 
terials that there will be a continual 
demand, although the present large 
use will not be noted, and the same 
results are likely to be seen regarding 
certain of the novelty yarn goods. 
Their making also has a great amount 
of influence at the mills, for it der 
velops ability through experience, and 
makes a better class of operatives or 
overseers, and ones who are able to 
handle somewhat difficult situations. 

There are many mills to-day 
producing novelty yarn cloths 
which previously considered them en- 
tirely out of their field. Even many 
of the ordinary print cloth mills have 
made and sold fabrics which contain 
stripes or variations from the ordi- 
nary run of cloths, and which often 
result in a better profit to the mak- 
ers, and such methods tend to develop 
a broader industry, and one able to 
take advantage of all the opportuni- 
ties which are presented by the 
changes in cloth styles. 

FABRICS AND WEIGHT. 

To show the wide variety of cloths 
produced we present a few of the 
many now selling. One is made en- 
tirely from white yarn, but it has a 
novelty effect produced by loops and 
also by bunches of cotton inserted in 
the yarn. The weave used is plain. 
Another fabric has a novelty yarn 
warp, with a plain yarn filling, and, 
because of the fine and coarse nature 
of the warp; an effect is produced not 
much different from that of the ordi- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



327 



nary ondule cloth. The weave on this 
fabric is also plain. Another fabric 
is made with a combination novelty 
yarn, which has a loop effect for 
ground and a binder in the retwisting 
operation, which works as a nub and 
produces a contrasting effect in col- 
ors. 

Stripes of different colored nubs 
are used, and the effect is very attrac- 
tive when this kind of cloth is being 
considered. Plain weave also forms 
the basis for this fabric. One fabric 
which has recently appeared, and 
which shows quite radical changes 
from the ordinary fabric, has a mer- 
cerized yarn ground very similar to 
an ordinary poplin but with a five- 
harness weave used instead of plain, 
and, in addition, has a jacquard figure 
introduced by a portion of the filling, 
which has a combination novelty yarn 
effect with loops and nubs. 

PRICES VARY MUCH. 

The prices of these cloths vary 
quite a little and range from $1.50 to 
$3 per yard for cloths which are 
most of them over 40 inches in width. 
One item of interest is that novelty 
yarn fabrics have been partly respon- 
sible for the largely increased price 
of cotton goods, which is partially jus 
tified by the cost of production and 
the prices which are noted when any 
idea is in demand. Without doubt 
the era of fancy cloth making in do- 
mestic mills has just commenced, and 
if the future shows as much increase 
in adaptability and in styling as has 
been noted during the past year, there 
will be very little opportunity for 
criticism regarding the progress of 
the domestic industry. The weight of 
the yarns and the weight of the re- 
sulting fabric which contains novelty 
yarns is obtained in a similar manner 
to that employed on ordinary fabrics 
that is, after the yarn size has been 
obtained. The weight on one of the 
fabrics, which is illustrated, is as fol- 
lows: 

Tarn size 3.87/1 (relative size). 

Threads per inch 16. 

Picks per Inch 17. 

Width of cloth finished 45%". 

744 ends -+- (3.87/1 X 840) = .2288, weight 

of warp without take-up. 
9% take-up In weaving 



.2288 -*- .91 — .2514. total weight of warp 

per yard of cloth. 
17 picks X 49" reed width X 36" 

— = 833 yards 

36" 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
833 -*- (3.87/1 X 840) = .2562. total weight 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
.2514 + .2562 = .5076. total weight per 

yard. 
1.0000 -+- .5076 == 1.97 yards per pound. 



STRIPED BEDFORD CORD 

Bedford cords have been in small 
demand for a number of years past, 
partly because styles did not use 
them largely, and partly because cot- 
ton was high in price. Thu3e fabrics, 
though many times made of fine yarn 
and having a high count, are usually 
quite heavy, and use quite a little ma- 
terial. As is well known, the demand 
has lately increased and many varie- 
ties and constructions are being of- 
fered and sold. Most of theoe fabrics 
are sold in the white state, but many 
new patterns are seen in colors. Be- 
cause of manufacturing conditions, 
wherein expenses were high from the 
use of comparatively fine bleached 
yarn, most of the cloths were made in 
the grey state and bleached when 
woven. With the making of fast col- 
ored yarn to stand bleaching, it is 
expected that more colors will be used 
in stripes in grey woven cloth, not 
only in fabrics similar to sample, but 
also in various other lines In which 
colors can be used to an extent for 
varying the patterns. 

The fabric considered is an import- 
ed one, and there are a number of in- 
teresting features regarding the cloth. 
It is made in the usual method in con- 
structing such patterns, that is, the 
weave appearing on the face of the 
Cloth is plain, and the filling weaves 
alternately in every second cord, two 
picks being woven into the face and 
then reversing to the back on the fol- 
lowing cord, where they hold in 
threads used for the purpose of round- 
ing out the cords on the face. These 
threads held in to make the cords 
round are called stuffer ends. The 
cord which is composed of black yarn 
Is one dent smaller than those made 
of white yarn. In our drawing-in 
draft we have placed the selvages 
on separate harnesses, although they 



328 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



weave similar to the stuffer, and in 
n.aking up the warps, tney would 
probably be placed on these stuffer 
harnesses. We have separated them 
from the main warp to make the draft 
somewhat clearer. It is to be noted 
that an end of plain weave must be 
used on the outside of each selvage to 
keep tlie filling trom slipping bacK, as 
the selvages have two picks in a shed. 

DETERMINED BY STYLE. 

One cf the interesting facts in con- 
nection with this cloth is that the 
warp is all two-ply yarn, while the 
filling is single, and another is the 



tailers Import fabrics, and this is one 
of the fabrics purchased. 

The other interesting features in 
this connection are the facts regard- 
ing prices, 11ns labile is to-day re- 
tailing for 75 cents per yard, and it is 
not believed its selling price finished 
in Europe was over 25 cents per yard, 
which, with the added price for duty, 
would allow a large profit to anyone 
handling such a cloth. A. a manu- 
facturer's profit on a cloth of this kind 
would not be over two cents per yard, 
and in the majority of cases, not 
much over half this amount, it can be 
seen how cheaply these cloths can be 




m 



i 






m 



i 



i 
i 



; 



i 






\ 



I 



Striped Bedford Cord. 



low number of picks in the cloth, 
namely 64. From large experience in 
making and selling this variety of 
cloths, it is not believed that a fabric 
constructed in this way could be sold 
by an American manufacturer. The 
fabric has so few picks and the fill- 
ing yarn is so fine in comparison with 
the warp that there is little strength 
filling-ways of the cloth, a d a buyer 
would not accept any such fabric. 
A slight strain will result in destroy- 
ing the cloth. The reason why such 
a construction was purchased was be- 
cause a retail buyer bought the goods 
and few of them are influencei by any 
cloth quality a fabric has, but the style 
determined the purchase. Large re- 



made. It can be stated as a fact that 
domestic mills would not be guilty of 
making many cloths with construc- 
tions like sample, and what is more 
to the point, they could not get away 
with any such fabrics if they did offer 
them. There are many cloths sold in 
AirerJc* to-day, similar to sample, 
which are far better value than tne 
on° an~lv7Pd. 

Few Bedford cords are being sold 
by domestic mills or converters to-day 
at over 25 cents per yard, unless they 
can show a much be'ter construction 
or more value than the one consid- 
ered. 

This Instance is one which only il- 
lustrates the hold which retailers 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Kgd 



1— —J — | — -4-1 


H 


| jB 


■ 


j ■ 


, 


. 


• 


i*>5 ^^ne^^^^t p. 


(X: > N P* t- 1*" f> ^ N V 5 


f MB '■o^ (~~f>c-t- n^Cj x 


3 1 








. ji-ijii^Z 3 _ji 


: _,3 5 si >jl 


^5 2^51 * H f 


„ 2_5 £ _i^i_ 


7^ — 55 


s» 


r« 


: xi cg^5 


u < >> 


*i fc' „ 


5 


a 


2H~2! ":£ 


cU y 


Z s'g ca § 


- *4 !!2 51 "V 


*{ m r« vj 


** ; i/fs f •£, s 


: t _ i!_ * ~ ,_ 


.__E3_S3- S^ 


I 


a 


V x 


?r ►* 


I txl *B i 


^£u ' ** 


: ^l^i o _ 


: j: : i_ 


■*:- 


- _ -*>- 4^ 


—r* ..-If- ^c 


2 r *X ^3" ^ 


- ■" 5uui 4 a- 


-k^X 5„ 


» 


*i 


sB"ur:~s 


|J 5 




~\ I 1 3 w >o 


" *7 yfl ?| o 


12 S'E "F( " » 


t » 5 


; 33CI3 i_E . 


, ■u-_^ -.^ 


a 


*s 


<o 


*I ^3 > 


i*4 "*,- 


i ■=* 


^i g . 


-v-,^>» I a -<l 


<3 2 *J s*£ 


j3 3*52 i ^=1 , 


e 1 i v^ h 







have on distribution and the prices by many to get higher prices for their 

which are charged. Many wares, notably different classes of 

AMERICANS ARE FOOLED textiles Because so many Americans 

were at some time or other natives 
by the imported label. This is aped of Europe, they have the feeling that 



330 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



any imported fabric is better than 
those made in America. "While this 
may be true in some instances, there 
is an increasing knowledge that this 
condition is not war* anted uy 
facts, and many are beginning to see 
that a large part of this feeling is 
mere hearsay, for a large percentage 
of mill employes are of foreign birth 
and education, and very few real 
Americans are found in the factories 
to-day. It is becoming known that 
many of the beautiful fabrics pro- 
duced in America are sold as of for- 
eign product, so that while the man- 
ufacturer does not reap any rewards 
of this practice, either converter, job- 
ber or retailer does. 

The process keeps educating con- 
sumers into the belief tnat Americans 
are far behind in manufacturing good 
cloths, and does stimulate importa- 
tions of fabrics which might be made 
by domestic manufacturers otherwise. 
This is possibly one reason why some 
jobbers and many retailers object to 
selling trade-marked textiles. If all 
textiles were trade-marked in some 
manner so that consumers would 
know they were of domestic make, 
there would be a surprising condition 
of affairs revealed, and many of 
the large profits secured by some 
sellers would be reduced, or possibly 
the manufacturers would obtain some- 
what larger profits. 

Bedford cords require but 

FEW HARNESSES 

to weave, usually not over eight, and 
although most mills with dobby looms 
make them, the price is high, because 
they are a heavy cloth. The count 
is high in most cases, being many 
times over 120 times 120. For this 
reason the yards produced are small 
in comparison to many other lines of 
fabrics. Because of the high number 
of picks the warps must be well sized 
or the friction will break the ends. 
It is necessary to use a rather coarse 
reed to obtain satisfactory results in 
weaving. Quite a few ends must be 
reeded together, and sometimes the 
best running result can only be de- 
termined by experimentation. The 
take-up in weaving of the stuffer ends 
is very small, as they lie nearly 



straight in the cloth. If dyed yarn 
be used for the stripe in weaving and 
grey yarn for the re., aiuaer 
of the warp, the take-up on the color 
is likely to be more than on the rest 
of the warp, unless care is used in 
weaving, if the take-ups are not 
nearly the same, a different appear- 
ance is sometimes seen on tne various 
stripes in the cloth. 
This fabric, although it has a 

HIGH WARP COUNT, 

has the same appearance which all 
these lines do when few picks are 
used in weaving. The nice smooth 
surface is missing, as in reality only 
32 picks per inch are used for the 
face of the cloth. We have never 
seen a satisfactory Bedford cord made 
with a very small number of picks, 
and domestic makers seldom make 
cloths with less than 80 picks per 
inch, and whenever fewer picks are 
used, it is to get a cloth made which 
will sell at a certain price. About 
ten years ago, quite a few Bedford 
cords were sold with fancy weaves, 
and various constructions in combina- 
tions, and it is likely many of the 
ideas then used will be reproduced 
with the r.ddition of color which was 
not available at that time. 

There is no question but that the 
advent of fast colo:s to stand bleach- 
ing has opened large fields which have 
never before been utilized, as can be 
noted in the making of stripes and 
checks in silk and cotton novelties, 
in the making of stripes in Bedford 
cords, in the making of stripes in mer- 
cerized piece goods, and it can be util- 
ized in the manufacture of novelty 
yarns in making the cloth called 
eponge or Turkish toweling, which 
buyers are at present interested in 
largely. 

While Bedford cords and piques are 
used for a variety of purposes, it Is 
believed by some that unless business 
increases largely there will be a sur- 
plus of these cloths the latter part of 
the coming season. As a rule, the to- 
tal amount pold of novelties of this 
character is small, and sellers have 
m^ny lines in hind, s^d onUe a few 
of the orders at the mills are for these 
cloths, 60 some doubt Is expressed re- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



831 



garding prices later in the season. 
The interest expressed in other newer 
fabrics is likely to detract somewhat 



from the sale which was anticipated 
earlier in the season on various styles 
of Bedford cords. 



50/2 Am. combed white. 12 
37V4/2 Am. carded white 
50/2 Am. combed black. | 



5 X 



PATTERN. 



2 X 



I 2 



12i = 2,778 beam No. 1. 
I = 1,183 beam No. 2. 
I =■ 910 beam No. 3. 



5 X 



4,871 total ends. 



91 X 

50/1 American combed filling; 64 picks. 

30 reed, 33%" width in reed, 32" grey width, 31%" finished width; 152 X 64 grey count 
over all; 154 X 63 finished count over all. 



YARNS. 



50/2 Am. combed, IVi" sta. ; 10 hank dou. rov., 
37V4/2 Am. carded, lVfe" sta.; 7% hank dou. rov., 
50/1 Am. combed, 1%" sta.; 12 hank dou. rov., 



Labor, 
Cotton, waste, etc. Twisting. 
21c. 14Vic. 3c. 

17 %c. 7%c. 2c. 

17M>c. 12 %c. 



50/2 black, name as above, with addition of 16c. for dyeing, beaming, etc. 

COST. 

2,778 ends, 50/2 Am. combed + 8% take-up = .1438 @ 38*4 c. 

1,183 ends, 37Mi/2 Am. carded + 2% take-up = .0767 <g> 27%c. 

910 ends, 50/2 Am. combed black + 8% take-up = .0470 @ 54 Vic. 

64 picks, 50/1 Am. combed = .0514 @ 30c. 

Weaving , 

Expenses , 



Selling 



Bleaching, etc. 



Yards per pound, 3.14. 
Retail price, 75c. per yard. 



38 Vie. 
27y*c. 
30c. 
54Vic. 



.0550 
.0209 
.0255 
.0154 
.0147 
.0133 

.1448 
.0029 



$ .1477 
.0150 



$ .1627 



SWISS APPLIQUE (PRINTED) 

We have at various times described 
different classes of fabrics wLich are 
decorated in some manner other than 
by the weave, that is, either through 
the use of a swivel or lappet motion, 
or through the use of the box loom or 
the embroidery machine. There is an- 
other class of fabrics which is not sold 
very extensively, but which shows a 
much different appearance and is pro- 
duced in a radically different manner 
than any of those which we have pre- 
viously described. In a general way, 
it is a fabric in which there are de- 
cided contrasts, that is, with portions 
of the cloth rather thin and transpar- 
ent, and with other portions opaque 
even when they are of the same color 
as the ground cloth. Probably in the 



majority of Instances these cloths 
have a white ground and are deco- 
rated with colored figures in what 
might be called 

GEOMETRICAL PATTERNS. 

An ordinary examination of the fin- 
ished material will show that the 
small spots are stuck onto the cloth in 
some manner. These will stand the 
ordinary washing process in a satis- 
factory manner, and whenever such 
fabrics are desirable this method of 
production can be used. Some of such 
fabrics are continually sold, but at 
certain times when very light ground 
fabrics of a rather crisp nature are 
desirable a much larger quantity can 
be sold. The fabrics are used for 
dresses, waists, collars, cuffs, trim- 
mings and various other small made- 
up articles for women's wear. The 
fabrics are not especially durable be- 
cause they are so light, but they ar« 



332 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



practically as durable as any other 
fabric of a similar construction. 

DIFFER FROM ORDINARY PRINTS. 

The results are produced by a proc- 
ess much similar to printing and which 
will be subsequently described, but it 
may be well to enumerate certain of 
the differences which exist between a 
fabric such as analyzed and an ordi- 
nary printed fabric wherein the same 
or similar ground cloth is used. The 
first thing which will be observed is 
that the figure is raised above the sur- 
face of the cloth whereas this does not 
occur in an ordinary printed material. 
For another thing it will be noted that 



figures being made up of small spots 
or dots of various sizes. The ordinary 
printed pattern often contains scroll 
patterns, and except in the cheaper 
grades does not often consist of spots, 
at least not arranged as they are in 
the fabrics under discussion. The 
feature that would be noted by a con- 
sumer before anything else would 
probably be the fact that the ordinary 
printed pattern contains a number of 
colors prranged in harmony to produce 
the flower or effect desired, whereas 
in these printed Swisses there is sel- 
dom more than a single color used. 
Wherever the printed pattern appears 
on an ordinary fabric it is very easy 



^MB§mmm: 



&■*:; 



Swiss Applique (Printed). 



the printed pattern appears on both 
sides of the cloth and in a similar 
manner, that is, the figure is raised on 
both surfaces. On an ordinary print- 
ed cloth the pattern seldom is as 
prominent on the back as it is on the 
face, and in a good many instances it 
is hardly visible at all on the back of 
the cloth. 

One of the most prominent features 
in such fabrics is that there is a wide 
divergence of the patterns from those 
ordinarily noted, at least in a large 
majority of instances. Continuous or 

SCROLL PATTERNS 

cannot be produced and geometrical 
figures are more often noted, these 



to move the threads and picks back 
and forth if the fabric construction is 
not very firm, and, in addition, the 
threads and picks composing the cloth 
are always visible, whereas in the fab- 
ric analyzed the figure entirely covers 
up the yarn and does not permit any 
movement of the threads whatever. 
Any large pattern on this sort of 
printing will 

MAKE A FABRIC STIFF 

and somewhat undesirable, and for 
this reason quite a little judgment has 
to be used in the amount of figure 
which is applied. It may be well to 
note here that it is desirable to have 
th« ground cloth of good quality just 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



333 



the same as when printed patterns are 
being applied under ordinary circum- 
siauces. Any great amount of irregu- 
larity in the yarns used will make a 
very uneven Finished result, because 
a light-weight fabric with fine yarns 
and plain weave shows up the quality 
of yarn about as prominently as is 
ever noted. The range of patterns 
which can be obtained from this meth- 
od of printing is somewhat limited, 
though it undoubtedly gives an effect 
which is otherwise not possible. 
Smooth, round spots cannot be ob- 
tained by embroidery, swivel weaving 
or by any other method, so as to be as 
regular as those printed by this 
method. 

GROUND FABRIC REGULAR. 
There is little to interest consumers 
or manufacturers in the ground fabric 
upon which the printed pattern is 
placed. This fabric can be made in a 
good many plants and contains quite 
fine yarns and is woven with plain 
weave. An ordinary fine goods mill 
usually produces large quantities of 
similar fabrics when they are in de- 
mand, though recently the sale has 
been rather small. The cloth is pur- 
chased in the grey state and then 
bleached, afterward being placed 
upon it the printed pattern which is 
desired. Generally speaking, the 
ground fabric is no different from 
many of those similar cloths of a 
light character which have a rather 
stiff finish and are 

SOLD IN THE WHITE STATE. 
The production of such cloths is quite 
high at the loom because the loom 
speed is somewhat higher than for 
fancv materials and the percentage of 
production is also large, due to man- 
ufacturing conditions. Relatively, a 
large number of looms per weaver are 
operated because the filling will last 
for quite a long time and because the 
yarn is not subject to some of the 
strains which are noted in other styles 
of goods. Undoubtedly such cloths 
can be produced about as cheaply as 
any fabric in the market, all things 
considered, and many think that 
there is more economy practiced in 
the making of such goods than is not- 
ed for any other style of cotton fabric 
produced, not excepting the ordinary 



well-known print. This fact makes 
it possible for the converter or finish- 
er to purchase the ground fabric upon 
which he is to place the printed pat- 
em, for a rather low price. 

FEATURES OF FINISHING. 
There are a number of interesting 
features in regard to the production 
of these printed Swisses, the first be- 
ing the process through which the 
material that is to be applied to the 
cloth is produced. The fibre which is 
used is often cotton, in the unspun 
condition, but due to the method of 
handling it has often been thought to 
be various kinds of wood pulp. Cotton 
or cotton waste is obtained, and tins 
is ground very fine or into a powder 
by machinery made for the purpose. 
More than one process is used cr •un- 
til fie cotton fibre has very little 
staple left, being more in the form of 
ordinarv light dust than anything else. 
Naturally, whenever colored patterns 
are to be produced, the fibre is dyed, 
but this is immaterial in the descrip- 
tion of the 

PRINTING OR PRODUCING 
process. The dyestuffs necessary 
would be those ordinarily used for dye- 
ing cotton cloth or yarn. The next 
feature of interest is in regard to the 
design making. The pattern sketches, 
of course, would be made up just the 
same as when other styles of printed 
patterns are to be made. This radical 
difference, however, is noted. The or- 
dinary pattern, as applied to a cotton 
fabric is engraved upon copper rollers, 
one roller for each color in the pat- 
tern Tn this sort of l rinting no roll- 
ers are used, but rather an endless 
band of nuite thin copper. The pat- 
tern is laid out upon this endless cop- 
per band, and instead of being eaten 
partwav into the copper as is noted 
when rolls are used it is cut clean 
through the endless copper band. 
There *s verv little to explain regard- 
ing t lis feature. Most of the patterns 
on the bands are cut through with a 
dye or in some other manner, whereas 
the pattern upon the roller is eaten 
out with acid. The shellac which cov- 
ers the copper roll almost entirely 
when immersed in the acid would not 
be suitable for the endless copper 
band, inasmuch as the band is not stiff, 



334 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



but rather flexible. It is just as neces- 
sary to have the patterns repeat in 
the length of copper band, as it is in 
the circumference of the copper roll, 
and the 

METHOD OF LAYING OUT 
is just as accurately done. The cir- 
cumference of the copper band is, 
however, usually very much greater 
than the circumference of the copper 
roll. The foregoing facts show clear- 
ly why continuous or scroll patterns 
are not used. In order to obtain a 
scroll or continuous pattern, it would 
be necessary to have a continuous cut 
lengthwise of the copper band and 
this would cut the band into various 
strips and they would not stay in 
their proper positions, thus causing 
insurnu antable difficulties. The next 
interesting feature in regard to this 
process is that the fibre which is 
ground up is not stuck immediately 
onto the cloth. To obtain such a re- 
sult a 

PREPARATION OF GLUE 
is brought into contact with the fabric 
through the holes in the endless cop- 
per band. This permits a pattern to 
be made or printed upon the cloth 
somewhat similar to an ordinary print- 
ed pattern though made of glue. Im- 
mediately after this printed pattern 
has been applied, the cotton cloth is 
sprinkled with the ground cotton 
fibre. This cotton fibre is agitated in 
the machine and is applied both to 
the back and face of the fabric and 
explains why the printed figure is 
raised on both sides of the cloth. The 
fibre sticks only to that portion of the 
fabric where the pattern of glue has 
been applied. Naturally, a certain 
amount of ground fibre is left upon 
the fabric, even though the glue pat- 
tern does not hold it, but this can be 
very easilv removed by a blowing 
process or by brushing after the fahric 
becomes dried. The amount of fibre 
which is taken up depends a good 
deal on the amount of glue which is 
applied and the size of the spot print- 
ed. It is necessary that the e'lne does 
not snrpad or run, for if this occurs 
the design will not be what wan in- 
tended and correct results will not he 
obtained. In order to eliminate this 
spreading tendency the fibre is applied 



to the printed cloth immediately after 
it has been printed and before ihe glue 
dries or spreads. There is a large 
amount of ground fibre in the air 
when such a printing process is being 
accomplished because the fibre is 
ground very fine and the material 
must be agitated quite extensively if 
it is to be applied regularly throughout 
the entire fabric width. It is always 
impossible to handle any fine mate- 
rial, similar to that described, without 
having a great deal of it in the atmos- 
phere, especially when there is an ex- 
cess of the fibre upon the fabric as it 
comes from the machine. It will be 
readily realized that the spots which 
are stuck on will not dry very quickly 
and for this reason a drying process is 
necessary. The cloth is hung up in 
large rcoms in folds which run up and 
down much the same as is noted in 
certain of the piece-dyeing machines 
which are now being sold. This 
method of handling allows the air to 
circulate through every layer of cloth 
and keeps the damp spots from stick- 
ing to the folds which come next to 
them. If the cloth was folded at all 
tightly, or rolled up before it was dry 
the printed effect desired would be en- 
tirely spoiled, because one fold would 
have a tendency to stick to the fold 
next to it. The 

MOST IMPORTANT FEATURE 

in the whole process is the kind of 
glue or composition which is used in 
obtaining the spot. It must be a ma- 
terial which is affected very little by 
moisture or ordinary atmosphere con- 
ditions. It is also necessary for such 
fabrics to be washed at certain times 
and if an ordinary glue were used 
there would be no pattern or spots re- 
maining after th washing process was 
completed. The method of obtaining 
the result is. however, very interest- 
ing, and at certain times is more or 
less desirable. The speed with which 
the printing can be accomplished is 
not so fast as is noted for an ordinary 
printed material for reasons which are 
obvious to most peonle, hut It might 
be said a fast speed in printing would 
make it Impossible to eet the ground 
fihre stuck onto the cloth in a satis- 
factory- manner, and would prohably 
result in many seconds being produced 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



33S 



through one cloth coming in contact thing which can be produced in the 
with a portion which had immediately domestic market. They surely pro- 
preceded, duce a raised spot and the variety of 

varictv tm parrtp p a ttttrntq patterns is quite extensive, though not 
VARIETY IN FABRIC PATTERNS. ag much SQ ag in an ordinary pririted 

Among consumers there has been a material. The prices for the various 

prejudice in regard to the use ci goods fabrics depend upon their appearance, 

sucii as that analyzed, inainly because and inasmuch as special processes 

they have aiways been accustomed to often bring large profits this is noted 

having spots or figures of a woven in the present instance, although it 

chaiacter and are not willing to be- might be said that such fabrics offered 

lieve that the spots or figures will re- when the demand is not large are of- 

main permanent when a washing ten sold quite low and lower than the 

process is employed. One of the ob- cost of production. The style of the 

PATTERN. 
2 2 

80/1 Sea Island combed — 2,236 — — 2.300, total ends. 

16 16 

110/1 Sea Island combed lilling. 6U picks per Inch. 
36 reeu; 31 V width In reed, 30" width grey, 29 >4" width finished. 
76 X 6U tr«=y count, 78 X 6u Imlslied count. 

TARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton. waste, etc. 
80/1 S. I. combed; 17-16" staple; 16 hank dou. rov., 23^c. 28V*c. = 61%c. 

110/1 S. 1. combed; lVa" staple; 25 hank dou. rov., 26c. 32%c. = 57%c. 

COST. 

2.300 ends 80/1 S. I. combed warp -f 4% take-up = .0357 @ 51 %c. = % .0185 

60 picks 110/1 S. 1. combed filling = .0205 @ 67 %c. = .0119 

Weaving .0059 

Kxpenses .0051 

% .0414 
Selling tgrey) .0007 

Ground fabric cost (grey) $ .0421 

Yards per pound 17.79 (greyj. 
Plain weave. 

Retail price 12 %c. per yard. 
Printed with a bordered pattern. 

jections which has been advanced result has much to do with the profit 

against the use of this process is that secured. 

although the spots remain firm when THE MAKING OF YARNS, 

the fabric is washed there has been a „ ., , - ., . . 4 .. 

tendency for the figures to turn to a p P<»siMy one of the most interesting 

yellow color when the goods are features relative to the ground fabric 

ironed. This is more especially true making 1S ' n regard *° the yarns which 

of the goods which have a white compose the material In order to ob- 

foundation and also white spots. It tain a regular efE f ct JJ 1S Poetically 

seems that the heat turns the glue or always necessary for the cotton to be 

composition used into a yellow color combed . This combing process elimi- 

and this makes a different-appearing ?* tes a ] arge , Portion of the short 

spot. Of the developments in printing fib ^ es and makes the yarn stronger 

noted in recent years one of the most a F d more even It also permits finer 

prominent is the various kinds of bor- slzes . J° be m 5 aade than are otherwise 

dered goods somewhat similar to the ^ ssl ^. Th e yarns which compose 

embroidered and other styles of goods th ® fab P c analyzed can be made on 

which have been in greater or less de- father the spinning frame or the mule, 

mand These though sizes much finer than those 

BORDERED PRINTED PATTERNS A^f^^t"^ tl!i 

show up very strongly and it would be used in selecting the cotton and 

seem as if they would be the nearest in the various processes employed if 

approach to certain of the embroid- correct results are secured. The cot- 

ered crepes and similar fabrics of any- ton fibre is seldom beaten as much in 



336 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



the picking processes and the card 
draft is often much greater than for 
ordinary work. The 

CARD PRODUCTION 
together with the production of other 
machines is often quite a little small- 
er. At the spinning frame the produc- 
tion is radically smaller in pounds per 
week than for the yarns which com- 
pose most ordinary fabrics. Due to 
the fineness of yarns the variation in 
sizes is somewhat greater than is 
usually noted. For ordinary 40-1 a 
reasonable variation would bo from 
38-1 to 42-1, whereas for 80-1 the va- 
riation would be from 76-1 to 84-1, 
with other numbers in about the same 
proportion. There is no great difficul- 
ty noted in obtaining the weights of 
the yarns used or in the weight of the 
cloth as produced at the loom. The 
method is as follows: 

2,300 h- (S40 X 80/1) = .0343, weight of 

warp yarn without take-up. 
4% take-up in weiving. 
.0343 h- .96 = .0357. total weight of warp 

yarn per vard of woven cloth. 
60 picks X 31%" reed width X 36" 

= 1.890 

36" 

yards of filling per woven yard. 
1,890 -=- (S40 X 110/1) = .0205. total weight 

of filling yarn per woven yard. 
.0357 + .0205 = .0562, total cloth weight 

ppr yard. 
1.0000 -=- .0562 = 17.79 yards per lb. (grey). 



"PIQUE" OR "MARSEILLES," 

The quilted weave, as applied to 
cotton fabrics, is known among weav- 
ers as the "Marseilles" weave. It is a 
double cloth, the face being a moder- 
ately close, plain weave. The back is 
a very open, plain weave. Between the 
back and face a soft twisted heavy 
filling, called "stuffing," is woven. The 
two cloths are stitched together at 
frequent intervals in weaving, the 
stitches being arranged so as to suffi- 
ciently bind the two cloths together, 
and at the same time form an orna- 
mental design or pattern. The "stuf- 
fing" between the clo<hs gives the 
fabric the embossed effect. 

THE FACE 
being plain woven is drawn into hed- 
dles as for sheeting. The back is also 
a plain weave, but the back warp is 
also the quilting warp, and has to be 



mounted in a "jacquard" harness, un- 
less the pattern is small enough to be 
produced on a "dobby." Two face 
threads and one back (or quilting) 
thread are drawn into each dent of 
reed. The construction is shown in 
diagram, Fig. 1. 

Si fc| 

it" si" 

Two threads of face and ::■■!«■■ smffinr 7 ,llj ** 
one of back warp are VCmaom f "" ™' n « 
drawn into each dent aSSBSS B;uk ' ilin s 
of reed. Back warp is on □■■:?■■ iMuffioz n.:ing 
a separate beam, and con-DOinoi'"* l,llin 8 
tains one-half the numbei BSSg!" Batt . n ,, ; . 
of threads that are in the^T. "" 
face. Fig. 1. 

^Indicates thit the threid iB raised by the J ici^u ird only wh*n used for 
building. tfShovra s.ime thread when raised by the comber board regularly to 
form t&e buck. 'Back oiling same tu lace. 

THIS CONSTRUCTION 

calls for a loom with two shuttle boxes 
at each end of lathe. Large pat- 
terns require a "jacquard" attachment, 
while the small designs may be made 
on a dobby head; also two warp beams 
are necessary. In operation the loom 
throws in one back, two face and one 
stuffing pick in regular order. To 
make the embossed effect show up 
well the back warp is woven with con- 
siderably more tension than the face. 

AS AN ARITHMETICAL BASIS 

for the construction of this fabric, 
about 11 times the square root of the 
average hank number on face and 
back may be used. The "stuffing" 
should be four times as heavy as the 
average number used for face and 
back. On this basis a Marseilles quilt 
or counterpane, if woven with average 
No. 35 on face and back, and No. 8% 
stuffing would have: 

64 threads per inch of No. 30 warp on t'ace. 

32 " 30 •■ back. 

64 picks 42 filling on race. 

32 " 42 ■• back. 

32 " " " " " 8% " as stuffing. 

and if woven 12 quarters squire, would 
weigh about 3 9-10 pounds per quilt; 
or take a 30-inch vesting fabric, made 
of average No. 80 yarn on face and 
back and 40 stuffing. The stuffing yarn 
in this cise is only twice the weight 
of the face, but there are twice as 
many picks relatively thrown in. 
There is no back filling used in vest- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



337 



ings. The back, when not used in 
quilting, is floated. The organization 
would be: 

98 threads per Inch on face, 

98 picks Average No. 80. 

98 " " " stuffing No. 40. 

The picks are thrown in two face 
and two stuffing regularly. At 30 
inches wide the goods would weigh 
4 65-100 yards per pound. 

IN THIS EXAMPLE 
the average number of the face yarn 
is given. The fabric looks and 
wears better if warp and filling on 
face are alike, but it helps the weav- 
ing out wonderfully to have a consid- 
erable difference between the two, the 
warp being from 10 to 20 per cent 
heavier than the filling. 

•It is beyond the scope of an elemen- 
tary article like this to attempt any 
description of the means used to pro- 
duce the ornate designs of the fabric. 
The artist who originates textile de- 
signs must draw each design to fit tha 
fabric he is dealing with. Each fabric 
has its special characteristics as to de- 
sign, and each also has its limitations. 
The characteristics and limits of the 
fabric under consideration may be 
here stated. 

COLOR EFFECTS. 

1. Color effects are hardly admis- 
sible. The fabric is essen.ially a white 
one. The quilting warp is sometimes 
colored, so as to show a pattern com- 
posed of colored lines and dots on a 
white ground. The design is not 
thereby altered, for the pattern woven 
with colored stitching may also be 
woven entirely white. 

2. The fabric admits only of a de- 
sign of "dots" arranged to produce 
large designs. 

3. In the vestings and fabrics with 
small patterns, the quilting warp 
threads, wnen not raised to inake a 
stitch, are floated. The dots then 
should be arranged so as to a.oid 

. \ery long flo.ts. 

4. On counterpanes the design has 
to be very large, and has to be pro- 
duced on a "jacquard" machine of com- 
paratively small capacity. This callb 
for a design that can be enlarged in 



the tie-up of the harness and to this 
end certain parts of the design are ar- 
ranged so as to admit of several repe- 
titions. 

THE NAME "PIQUE" 
is now generally applied to this fabric 
vvhen woven in small patterns within 
the capacity of the "dobby." This 
name particularly applies when the 
goods are to be used for ladies' and 
children's dresses, men's shirt fronts, 
etc. However, the fabric that is called 
"pique" when used for dresses or 
shirt fronts would be a "Marseilles" 
if made up into a man's vest. The 
name "pique" is probably from the 
French "piquer," to quilt or prick with 
a needle. Possibly the name "Mar- 
seilles" is also a corruption of the 
French "matelas," a quilt or mattress. 

A CORDED "MARSEILLES," 
or "pique" is essentially the same fab- 
ric as the figured article, but is woven 
rather differently. The warp is drawn 
into a three-shed harness like a com- 
mon three-shed twill. To produce the 
corded effect the harnesses are op- 
erated by a dobby. Two warps are 
used as in the preceding casss, one 
warp having twice as many threads as 
the other; the quilting warp is drawn 
into the back harness, the face warp 
in the middle and front. The pegging 
plan of dobby chain is shown at Fig. 2. 

ill 



Dl| Stuffing 

DIM 

una facc mn t 
aau " 
omn " 
vam " 

DM stuffing 

DBS 

□■□ face Siting 

oai ••' 

DBD 'Y 

aam •• 
Fig. 2. 

As this weave calls for four picks of 
face filling and two picks of stuffing in 
succession, the lathe need only have 
drop boxes on one end. 

QUILT WEAVE GOODS 
should be finished so as to preserve, 
as far as possible, the convexity or 
puff of the quilting. To this end, after 
bleaching and sizing, they should be 
dried on tenter-hooks. The piecu 



338 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



goods can be dried on the tentering 
machine, through which they should 
run iace down. The quilts or coun- 
terpanes are handled singly, and are 
stretched on square tentering frames 
and dried in a hot room. There is a 
fabric on the market called "P K," 
which is often confounded with 
"pique," the names having the same 
sound. "P K" is a float weave and 
the fabric bears no relation to "pique" 
or "Marseilles." 



TUCKS 



Cotton Wash Fabric. 
A tuck fabric is a single cloth and 
is made by using two or more warps, 
is generally composed of all cotton, 



8" 



UIEUQ 

SS9UJBH 

OOQOBDOD 
DDBDDDBQ 
■aOOBQQD 
DOBOaOBO 
■DDDatDDD 
ODBDDGBD 
BDQGflODQ 
OQBOQOBO 
•QQOHOOa 
DDHDDDBD 
■ QQOBOCIO 
ODBGQQBD 

■oaaBaon 

OQBaQaBD 

mnacmaoa 

OQBGGaBD 
BaaOBQQO 
DDBDDOBD 
BnDDBDDD 
DDBnDDBa 

BDDnBnna 

OaBQOQBD 

bdddhddd 
qgbgogbo 

BDDaBaOD 

aaBaaa«a 
■anaBDna 

DOBODDaD 
BDDDBDDa 
DDBDDDBa 
BDODBDaa 
BDBDDQBa 



bsgbgbgb 
bdbdbdbd 
dbobgbob 

BDHDBQaD 

QBDBDBDB 

aaflaaaaa 

DBDBDBQB 
BGBDBDBD 
GBGaDBCB 

aoaaauaa 
D»a«nBaa 
auaoBaaa 

QBQSLICi 

BDaaBQaa 

CBDBDBQB 

, iDBDIDIQ 

>-3 gbgbdbgb 
o bqbobgbq 

GBDBDBDB 

SBDIDBDIQ 
OBOBaaQB 
p BOBDBOBU 



O 

B 

e 

i5 <p 



BCBGBCBG 
GBGaGBOB 

BGBCBDBy 



. aBGBGBal p< 



IDBQI 
GBGBG 



w 



DI 
BOB 
QBO 

CBGBCBGB 
BCBGBDBn 
CBGBGBGB 

SDBDBaBD 
BGBaBDB 
BGBGBQBO 

□BDaaapa 

BGBGBDBD 
OBGBGBGB 
BDBGBGBG 
DBOBDBQB. 

CLBCBGBG 



DGGDaDDB 
DGQaODBC 

BDaoDBDa 
DDDBQGD 
DGGBaaaa 

DDBQaaDD 

DBDDaaaa 
BDaaoDaa 

cotton and silk, and all silk, and can 
be made on any loom having either a 
dobby or a jacquard attachment, and 
single or double box, double box 
looms, of course, giving great scope 
for filling patterns. 



A tuck effect in a cloth is a perfect 
pleat running across the cloth from 
one selvage to the other and was used 
extensively a few years ago in making 
fancv bopoms for men'^ outiig or 
neglige shirts and ladies' waisting, 
very elaborate eiiects being produced 
by weaving ground cloth in colors 
either harmonizing with or contrast- 
ing to that of the tuck. 

Two different numbers of filling are 
used in this labric, namely, a fine one 
for the plain ground or flat part of the 
cloth, and a coarse number for the 
tuck, as the tuck is a filling effect, and 
the coarse filling causing it to stand 
out more prominently from the ground 
fabric than would be the case if fine 
numbers of filling were used to form 
the whole fabric. 

In making a common tuck effect two 
beams are necessary, also 10 harness 
or heddle shafts. The top beam con- 
taining the tuck warp is drawn in on 
the 2, 4, 6, 8th harnesses, and the bot- 
tom beam, containing ground warp, is 
drawn on 1, 3, 5, 7th harnesses, the 
other two harnesses to work inde- 
pendently for selvage, plain weave be- 
ing used all the time. 

The harness or head chain is pegged 
to work all the harnesses plain weave 
at the same time for whatever length 
of plain ground is desired in the cloth 
being woven. "For example, if you 
want 40 picks plain ground cloth be- 
fore weaving" the tuck, simply peg 
the chain plain weave on all harnesses 
for 40 picks. Then to form the tuck 
peg the chain so as to work only tuck 
harnesses for plain weave for num- 
ber picks necessary to give lengih of 
tuck desired, the ground harnesses be- 
ing at rest. 

While the tuck harnesses are work- 
ing, the take-tip motion is temporarily 
dispensed with by coupling the take- 
up finger to a jack in the head motion 
by running a strap over the top of the 
loom and down the side. After having 
woven the desired number of picks 
to form the tuck, as the loom turns 
over, all the harnesses are set work- 
ing plain weave, and as the first pick 
of the chain operates the head motion, 
the take-up finger drops, the take-up 
motion is again in gear, and the reed 
beats in, the pick binding the turn and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



339 



throwing it out from the ground fab- 
ric. 

This fabric is generally made to fin- 
ish from 2y 2 to Zy 2 ounces and 27 

inches wide. 

CONSTRUCTION COMMON TUCK. 

1,300 reed, 2 ends per split, 1 end per 
heddle, 29 inches width in reed, in- 
cluding selvage; 1,036 plus 16 splits, 
2,072 plus 64 ends. Ground warp and 
tuck warp, l-40s cotton; 70 picks per 
inch l-40s cotton filling. 7 per cent 
shrinkage in width in weaving and 
finishing; 10 per cent shrinkage 
length finishing and weaving. 

Tuck pattern: 46 picks l-40s cotton 
for plain ground; 32 picks 2 -20s cot- 
ton for tuck. Selvage, 4 in a heddle 
and split. Finish about 3% ounces. 



SCRIM 



Scrim. A loose woven, flimsy-look- 
ing cloth, composed entirely of two- 
ply cotton yarn, both warp and filling, 
and resembles a fine meshed fish net. 

Scrim is usually made in bright col- 
ored stripe and plaid effects. It is pe- 
culiarly adapted to the draper's art, as 
it is a light-weight creation, there- 
lore soft and pliable; it is also used as 
a fly 'net for horses in the summev 
time. 

Scrim is made of 2 -20s cotton, dry 
color, in both warp and filling, and as 
a fabric requires nothing in the na- 
ture of a finish except being run 
through a hot press, simply to smooth 
the wrinkles which may occur during 
the process of weaving. 

By using 3-l1s and 4-10s cotton 
warp and filling, and, of course, in 
proper proportions, we produce ham- 
mocks and material for laundry bags 
with this same scrim weave, or, to be 
correct, gauze weave. Scrim can be 
woven in any power loom, but best 
results are obtained by using a light 
running loom. The 

SCRIM WEAVE OR LACY EFFECT 
can be produced by using a regular 
doupe set oi harness, but the best, 
quickest and cheapest method is by 
using an attachment known as the 



Ashoff motion, which is an improved 
set of harness or heddle and heddle 
shafts built especially for this kind of 
effects in cloth. This motion consists 




ODD 



Harness 
chain. 



This weave applies to a, fabric (scrim) in 
which the Doupe set is working every pick, 
and each Warp thread working with a mate 
thread, and producing perlect Leno effect. 

NOTE. — In drawing in the Ground thread 
crosses over the Doupe thread. 

of two heavy wooden frames built 
similar to heddle frames and suspend- 
ed in the loom from the top roller, in 
the manner in which old roller looms 
w T ere equipped for weaving gingham. 
In place of heddles these frames 
are filled with a coarse reed, in ac- 
cordance with number of splits per 
inch required for fabric; these reed 
dents are plugged with lead, alter- 
nately top and bottom, and two ends 
are drawn straight through both har- 
nesses. 

THE ASHOFF MOTION 
makes a shed in the regular roller 
loom style or by treddle or cam, and 
has likewise a sideway movement, 



340 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



which is obtained by placing a small 
eccentric on the bottom loom shaft. 

Near the side ot loom this eccentric 
is connected by a one- half inch iron 
red with a pair of bevel gears which 
are fastened on the loom frame at a 
point equal to the center of the shed. 
These ^ears are in turn coupled by 
smaller reds to the heddle frames, and 
create the side motion, which allows 
the threads to operate in a sort of 
rolling motion or, in' other words, each 
thread rolls half-way round its mate 
thread and the filling pick, binding it 
in, and on the next pick the roll is re- 
versed, and this creaies the lacy ef- 
fect. In addition to the motion men- 
tioned, there are various styles of 
patented heddles now used for weav- 
ing what is known as ordinary gauze, 
or where the two leno threads changw 
every pick, in some cases these pa- 
tented heddles are constructed upon a 
sliding sleeve idea, where the center 
of the heddle slides up and down, and 
inasmuch as it holds the leno thread, 
it makes a crossing when this occurs. 
In other instances, the heddles are 
somewhat similar to the ones ordi- 
narily used, but the doup is also made 
from steel, and in certain cases th^se 
have given better results than older 
methods. Possibly there are a half- 
dozen or more of these patented hed- 
dles, which are sometimes used in 
making leno fabrics. Use regular 2-20s 
cotton yarns and set the warp about 
44 inches in the reed, 20 ends and 20 
picks per inch; will weigh about 1*6 
ounces and measure about 36 inches 
wide from loom. 

FOR LAUNDRY BAGS 
use 4-10s cotton in the gray; set 30 
inches in reed, three ends and three 
picks per inch; will run 25 inches 
from loo;n; no finish. 

In hammocks very elaborate effects 
are made up with the scrim weave as 
applied to the harness loom. Diamond 
twill and fancy colors are a favorite 
combination and make a good selling 
line. 

4-10s cotton yarn (warp filling); 42 
inches in reed; 14 ends per inch; one 
end per dent; 14 picks; stripe pat- 
terns. No finish, as cloth is made into 
hammocks straight from loom. 



HAMMOCK CRASH 

This cloth, as the name implies, is 
used in the making of hammocks. It 
is made strong end durable to sfand 
the strain and wear that it is subject- 
ed to and can be woven on almost any 
ordinary loom. It is generally made in 
three grades, viz., best, medium and 
low. 

The best grades are generally made 
on the jacquard loom, so that very 
elaborate patterns may be introduced. 

A 400 tie up is generally used, but 
any tie may be used according to the 
requirements of the design and qual.ty 
of the cloth. 

The warp is generally composed of 
three or four or more colors of yarn, 
the colors being very bright and con- 
trasting, such colors as green, red, 
gold and black taking a prominent 
part. 

The design is generally an extensive 
and elaborate one and in stripe form, 
but designs of the following character 
are sometimes employed, with partic- 
ulars as follows: 

Warp: g cotton, as sample, 20 ends 
per 1 in., 10 x 2 reed, 46 in. wide in 
reed. 

Filling: 1 cotton, as sample, 18 picks 
per 1 in. 

The warp is woven with an e v en 
tension and where a gauze cr leno 
weave is used, two or more bea^s are 
necessary and the necessary slackners, 
etc. 

When the warp is composed of sev- 
eral colors of yarn, the filling is gen- 
erally used undyed or in one solid 
color. 

Semifancies (eeneraHy of medium 
qral'ity) and plain or lower erade 
cloths may be woven on harness looms 
(16 to 24 harnesses being employed). 
Plain or lower grade cloths are some- 
times woven in looms having a cross- 
weaving or gauze-reed attachment 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



341 





when the weave is a gauze or leno, 
which is generally the case. 

These cloths (medium grade) are 
not made as strong and compact ag 
the first quality, the particulars being 
as follows: 

Warp: 14 ends per 1 in., | cotton, 7 
x 2 dent reed. 

Filling: 12 picks per 1 in., 1 cot- 
ton. 

The weave is generally a semifancy 
one, that is, plain weave for 2 or 3 in., 
and then a gauze stripe or gauze 
stripes at irregular intervals across 
the warps. The colorings in warp are 
sirrilar to the first grade colorings, 
and the design is less elaborate, some- 
times on the following order: 



Repeat several times. 

The cheapest qualities are much 
lighter in weight and more open in 
texture, the particulars being as fol- 
lows: 

Warp: 8 ends per 1 in., | cotton, 8 
dent reed x 2; mess every other dent. 

Filling: 7 picks per 1 in., | cotton. 

The weave is generally a gauze one, 
one that is largely used, being 3 picks 
plain and 1 pick gauze. 

This quality is often made with un- 
dyed cotton warp and filling and is 
dyed in the piece a solid color. It 
may also be made with colored warp 
threads, but on account of the scarcity 
of warp threads less effective results 
are obtained than in the first two 
grades. 

A typical sample is herewith en- 
closed, but is a little better quality 
than the particulars given refer to. 

These cloths are generally made by 
manufacturers who make up their own 
cloths Into hammocks and sell in this 
form, 



They require no finishing, as they 
are made up into hammocks in the 
condition as taken from the looms, ex- 
cept in cases where the goods are to 
be dyed. 

In making hammocks, hangings or 
draperies are employed and these 
cloths are closely related to the ham- 
mock cloth. They are made on the 
same looms as hammock cloths and 
are of the same texture. 



■■OBDiOMonaaanQ 

DliaiQMDOICIUlU 

ooHQiaouar ibgbdb 

BDaBBBDDBDBDCDBa 

oiaaBDOBDBacBDaB 

gDBDODBDBaaBBBnn 
BOBaBQBODBBDBBr 



DBClBOBDBCOBBr 

aaaaadiaaBBOBDB 

SaaBQBDQBiaBOlQB 
aBDBDQBBOBDBDBB 

gaoaooaaosQBOBBa 

iOBOOBBOBOBDBBOQ 
DBpOBBDBDBOBBaOB 

BJBGDBBCBDBBSCan 

gaosaoBagaaooaoa 
OBoaoafBBOoBuao 
ooBOBpaBpaaQBnn 
■aociaoBaoOBOBC 



■oaa 

DBDQ 

-jonapiai 

ClBiaGBDBCIBGBDa 

gDHnaanaaBooBBa 
■ciincinianiir ■ 
BoapBBoaaoaaaBBD 
BnacBBDnaCBnoBB 
BOaoaoaaaaaoaooB 

Fig. 1. 

The yarn used is the same general- 
ly, but the cloth need not be as strong 
as the body cloth. The ends and picks 
per 1 in. may be a little lower. The 
drapery cloths are made two in a 
width, there being 12 in. or 14 in. of 
the reed empty between the two 
cloths. The filling is thrown across in 




Fig. 2. 

the regular manner, and when the 
cloth is woven, the filling is cut in the 
center of space between the cloths, 
and the ends thus formed constitute 
the fringe of the hangings, which 
fringe is knotted in various ways to 
make the hanging more effective. 

In order to secure the warp threads 
at the inside edge of drapery while 



342 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



weaving, the two ends nearest the 
fringe side are made to cross each 
other in weaving and make a firm sel- 
vage for the actual cloth. 

The warp yarn may be either in col ■ 
ored stripe form or solid color, and 
the filling solid color, or both warp 
and filling, may be in undyed state 
and dyed in the piece when woven. 

The draperies are made to match 
the body, similar colorings and de- 
signs being employed. 

WEAVES TO EMPLOY. 

The best qualities have generally 
jacquard effects, and as the texture is 
not so compact, the plain weave must 
be used extensively in ground, the 
figure being either 5 harness satin or 
3—1 twill. 

The medium qualities as made on 
harness looms have weaves as shown 
in Figure 1, the plain weave being 
conspicuous in order to make a firm 
cloth. 

Low grade cloths are made almost 
exclusively with the gauze weave, Fig- 
ure 2 being a typical one. 



MADRAS 



Madras is a light-weight cotton 
cloth, composed of all cotton or cotton 
and silk, and is a single cloth fabric, 
having excellent wearing qualities. 

It has been on the market for many 
years and is considered a staple in the 
cotton goods line. It is a narrow fabric 
sold at 27 inches wide, and is made of 
varying grades, weighing from two 
to three ounces per yard, and is used 
at all seasons of the year. It is used 
by the ladies for summer skirts, shirt- 
waist suits, etc.; by men for shirts, 
shirt bosoms, and four-in-hand and 
bow neckties. It is also used as a 
drapery in workmen's homes for win- 
dows, etc. 

It is known by the plain white 
ground and fancy colored, narrow 
stripe warp effects, and is made of cot- 
ton yarns ranging from l-26s to l-80s 
warp and filling, and from 50 to 100 
or more ends per inch. The knowl- 
edge of the utility of madras being 
common among most all classes of 
people, permits of the greatest scope 



in creating both harmonious and con- 
trasting colors and weave combina- 
tions, simplicity in color arrangement 
being generally the keynote to suc- 
cess in producing an elegant, good- 
selling line. 

COLORS. 

Those colors most in demand, 
which have been adapted to this fab- 
ric, are rich and delicate shades of 
blue, rose, green, linen, tan, laven 
der, ecru and bright red. 

For prominent hair line effects use 
black, navy blue, dark green, royal 
blue and cherry red. Good fast color 
is necessary in making madras, as it 
is a wash fabric, the feature of which 
is the fine colored stripe effect run- 
ning warp ways. 

If inferior colors are used, they will 
surely spread during the finishing 
process, and will cause a clouded 
stripe where a distinct one was In- 
tended, thereby causing a pile of sec- 
onds. Madras used in making men's 
stiff bosom shirts, which retail at 
$1.50 and upward, in most cases is 
made entirely with a plain weave. 

Sometimes the colored stripe is de- 
veloped by doubling up in the heddle 
and reed (by drawing in two or more 
ends in one heddle, and the threads 
of several heddles in one split in the 
reed). 

ANOTHER METHOD. 

Another method Is to weave the 
colored warp threads on other har- 
nesses than those of the body of the 
cloth, using a twill weave on these 
harnesses, and by doing so create a 
perfect cord in the cloth. 

High-grade patterns are usually 
formed by making a plain white stripe 
from Vz inch to 1% inches in width, 
and the colored stripe of 2, 4, 6, 8 
ends. In using any of these numbers 
of ends, the width of the colored 
stripe is governed by the fineness of 
reed, and method of drawing through 
the reed, consistent with the weave 
effect desired. 

Fancy madras is made more suc- 
cessfully on the dobby loom, 20-har- 
ness capacity covering most all com- 
binations used in this line. 

A good grade of madras is made by 
using l-30s cotton warp and filling. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



343 



1,200 reed, two ends per dent; 31% 
inches in reed; 56 picks, l-30s fill- 
ing; finish, 27 inches; weight, 2% 
ounces. 

WARP PATTERN. 
14 White l-30s 1 

1 White 2-40s } Plain weave. 
14 White 1-SOs I 

4 Rose 1-308 Basket weave. 

10 White l-30». . .Plain weave. 

4 Green 1-308... .Basket weave. 

47 

Finish for madras: Run through 
washer, cylinder (to dry cloth), ten- 
tering machine, calender or press. 



Finishing Particulars. 

Starch, 6 ounces cornstarch, 2 
ounces white cocoanut oil softening, 1 



1 per cent new methylene blue G G, 
Vz per cent thioflavine T. Wash well. 
PINK. 
Mordant yarn with 2 per cent tannic 
acid. Give 5 turns and fix with 2 per 
cent tartar emetic. Wash well. Dye 
9 ounces acridine red 6 B., 3 ounces 
rhodamine 3 G. C. Bischoff & Com- 
pany. Wash well. 



GINGHAM (Common) 

Gingham (common) is a single cloth 
composed entirely of cotton and 
always woven with a plain weave; 
it is the most universally known fab- 
ric on the market and is made in va- 
rious grades, having from 50 to 76 
ends per inch in the reed and of 
l-26s to l-40s cotton yarns in both 



Design. 



Harness Chain. 



One repeat. 




DB7BCB 
■ :■'!'■ 

oaoBan 

BDBOBO 
OBQBtlB 

imnci 

DBPBBn 

■qbobq 



Drawing-in Draft. 

ODDDODaaDDnDQannDDDDDDnDDDDDnnDBBCDDDDDDCppCCBp 
DDDDDaDaDDDnnDDDDDDDDDDQDDDngBBgcpDpCpCCpCCBBpn 
DDaBDDaBnaDBDDDBDDDBDDDBDDaBDDDDDDBppDBCCDBDpnp 
DDBODaBOQOBanDBDQaBOODBOOOBaDOaDOBDDCBupDBDCpgg 
DBnDQBDaDBDODBDaDBDDGBDDDBDDDnaDDDDDBpgQBpppppp 
BDDalDDDBDaDBDDDBDDDBDDDBDaDBDDDaaDBDDCBDaDDCCD 

Reed Plan. 

ODBBOaaBODBBDaBDDBBnDBBDDBBDnBBDDBBDgBBnDBBOCBB 

SBL.OBHDaBBaaBBDBBDDBaaaBBaDBBDDBBDDHBDDBBnuBBaa 

Note — Design is two repeats In filling, and is intended to show connec- 
tion between first and second repeat. 



gallon water. Calender with light 
calender machine. 



Dyeing Particulars for Madras. 

Following are dyeing particulars for 
good madras shades: 

LIGHT GREEN. 

Mordant yarn with 2 per cent tannic 
acid. Give 5 turns and fix with 2 per 
cent tartar-emetic. Wash well. Dye 



warp and filling. It is a wash fabric, 
made in both check and plaid pat- 
terns, into which an almost unlimited 
variety of color combinations are in- 
troduced. It is most commonly used 
in the manufacture of ladies' and chil- 
dren's aprons and summer outing 
dresses. 

It can be woven in any power loom 
having a box motion attached, using 
four-harness or heddle shafts, and 
having as a selvage eight double ends 
on each side. 



344 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



There are many mills which are 
now using automatic looms for the 
production of ordinary ginghams. Of 
course, the advantage gained is not 
quite as large as when ordinary grey 
fabrics are being produced, but, rela- 
tively, it places a manufacturer in an 
advantageous position, as far as com- 
petition is concerned. Undoubtedly, 
a great many more of these looms will 
be used in the future, the only great 
reason why more of them have not 
been installed being because of the 
limited finances of various concerns 
and the fact that many manufacturers 
are opposed to throwing out any ma- 
chines which seem to be giving sat- 
isfactory service, even though the 
cost of production is rather high. 

Gingham warps are made in two 
lengths, 720 and 1,080 yards, and 
these lengths are subdivided into 
shorter lengths or cuts, usually 14 and 
21, respectively. 

When a gingham warp is woven out 
the set of harnesses or heddles are 
taken out of the loom and placed 
in a twisting frame and twisted, an 
operation which means the fastening 
together, by means of the fingers, of 
those ends remaining in the set of 
harness, and those of the new warp. 
A practiced operator can accomplish 
this work at the rate of 50 to 60 ends 
per minute, and he is generally a boy 
of perhaps 16 years of age. 

Loom fixers each have a section of 
looms, numbering about 60, to care for 
and keep in good running order. 

FINISHING GINGHAMS. 

The goods are taken from the loom 
and conveyed to the wareroom, and 
the ends of several pieces or cuts are 
sewn (chain stitch) together on a 
sewing machine, thus making a con- 
tinuous length of cloth of several hun- 
dred yards, about 300 yards. (This is 
done to facilitate handling.) 

It is now run through the sprinkler, 
the object of which is to dampen the 
cloth in such a manner as to improve 
its receptive qualities in the sizing op- 
eration. 

The sprinkler is a machine having a 
box arranged on its top. Through this 
box is passed a roller having bristles 
set on end at regular intervals, similar 



to the brush in a carpet sweeper; the 
box is fed with water by means of a 
small pipe, and the cloth on entering 
the machine passes over the roller 
brush, which in revolving comes in 
contact with the water, and spreads it 
over the cloth, which is drawn 
through the machine by means of de- 
livery rollers at the opposite end. 

From the sprinkler, it goes to the 
size tubs, where it is given a good 
amount of starch sizing. It is next run 
through the cylinders to dry it, and 
then run through the tentering ma- 
chine, which operation is a continu- 
ing of the drying process, also stretch- 






?mf: wm: : ' 



Gingham. 

ing the cloth in width. It is then pass- 
ed through the calender, which is a 
sort of hot press, and in which opera- 
tion it is smoothed, and receives the 
desired glaze on the face of the cloth. 
From the calender the cloth goes to 
the lapping machine, where it is roll- 
ed around a small wooden board, 
known as a lapboard, the operator 
making a bolt of each cut of cloth, 
the length of which is governed by 
the subdivision of warp. 

After the lapping operation, the 
cloth, which is now in the shape of a 
bolt (commercial term), is taken by 
the folder, who unravels a couple of 
yards and doubles it up, and neatly 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



345 



tolls It back in place, while he tucks 
in the ends. The bolt is then stitched 
with a strong cord, twice through 
each end; the ends are then singed 
with a gas flame to remove odd scraps 
of filling threads. The bolts of cloth 
are then placed in a plate press in 
the following order: three or four 
bolts are laid flat side by side in the 
press, and a zinc or other metal plate 
placed upon them. This is repeated 
until the press is filled with desired 
number of pieces or bolts, the top of 
the press is then run down by means 
of a belt connecting with a driving 
shaft, and the goods allowed to re- 
main in this condition several hours, 
after which the paper bands are plac- 
ed around them and they are ready for 
shipment. The following is a list of 
standard gingham patterns, known as 
two shuttle checks and usually made 
in blue, brown, green, black and red. 
Warp and filling: 2-2, 4-4, 6-6, 8-8. 
10-10, 12-12. 14-14, 16-16, 18-18, 20- 
20, 24-24, the pattern reading: 



2 Blue 
2 White 



24 Blue 
24 White 



Warp 
and 

filling. 



For side pattern effects use same 
colors: 

4 — 2, 8 — 4, 6 — 4. 10 — 6, 20—10, 



g_4_2— 4 



6—4—2—4 



Inches; weight 2% ounces; l-30s cot- 
ton warp and filling; generally stripe 
patterns; plain weave. 

A fine grade thus: reed, 1,400 — 
two ends per dent; 29 inches in 
width; 60 picks filling. Finish, 27 
inches; weight two ounces; l-40s cot- 
ton warp and filling. Check or plaid 
pattern, plain weave. 



Read tn this manner: 
10 B'ue 1 
6 White I Warp and filling-. 
L Diue .. 

6 White J 

Staple ginghams are known to the 
mill man as 900, 1,200, 1,400, meaning 
900 reed, 1,200 reed, 1,400 reed. Those 
mado with a 1,400 reed are usually in- 
tended as an imitation of zephyr ging- 
hams. '..'.,.: 

A good grade of ginghams can be 
made thus: reed, 900— two ends per 
dent; 29 inches in width; 44 picks fill- 
ing. Finish, 27 inches. Check pattern. 
Weight about 2.1 ounces; l-26s cotton 
warp and filling. Plain weave. 

A better grade thus: reed, 1,200 — 
two ends per dent; 29 inches In 
width; 52 picks filling. Finish, 27 






iitfl 



2 

PC' 

7T 



Design. 

□□QanooBa«a«anooDQO«G«o« 

QoaQQDBaan»aQGuoQoaoBcsa 

nQaaDDOiO«a«OQaOQDQ«C1BGB 

DDDDDa«0«a«ODOuDaa«DBDBD 

naDaaaoBDBOBQaaaauoBijBOB 
DaQDDDBa«a«aaDQaDaBD«D«a 
aiaioiHiiiiaioiDiiinii 

■ OIUKjII^IIO^BOICItllM 

OiQiJ«ISii.'fi«>i i«L'BOB«iMBO 

■ CBGBa*'3*&!iBBGBaBDBBnBBB 
DBGBGIBB!3tai*BBGBLjBi_BHBBBBa 

BoaoBQaa&BaaiuflGauBBBaBa 

DQDnQOOBOBOBODOOOGCBGBnB 

ODaGQaBaBnauuaancGBaBDBD 
oaaaaaaaDBnaaacDDDDBOBQa 

GaaDDDBDBaBDDDDDaDBDBaaa 
DGaaaaaBDBaBDDDDaDDBGBDB 
QOQOaGBQBQBGDaaaaQBQBQBa 
aBCBGBBBBBBaHBriBGBBBBHBn 
B B B lialllR B B BBvBBH 

Diuiaaiiiiiir'iuiaiaasBiB 

BGBDBOBBBBBBBnBDBOeeSH^H 
CBaBDBBBBBBBGBOBaBBaffifSBH 
BGBGBQBBBBBBQBaHGBBatBBBa 

six 



six 
white 



black 



nOBBGGBBDGBBnCBBCGBBOCBa o £ 

■BDDaaaGaaDOBaaaaBGDBaaG - i? 



gaaQaaoBDaaBaaoaaanBGaaB » 

QaaaaDBfDGGBGacaanGB.jaGBa {. 

DBDDnBaDDBDDnanDDBDDDBDa c • 

■aaaaaaa«DDOBQaaaoooaaDD h ~ 

DDDDaDDDDDaDDDBDaDDDDDOn fe Gl 

aacGGDaaaaaaaQaaacaaaaaa g £ 

DDDBDDDDaGDDDDDDaDDDDnDa p W 



aiDiiiiioiaiciainicniai m ■ 

BDBnBDBGBGBGBDBCBGBDBBBD W C 

DBDBaBDBBBBBaBDBCBnBGBaB o •- 

BGBnBGBaBBBGBOBDBGBGBGBa C £ 

■GBGBaaaBDBaBDBGBDaGBGBG - ~ 

DBaBDBDBaBCBGBGBCBOBGBGB 3 O 

BnBGBaBaBaBaBaBGaGBaBaBD z, 

GBaBGBGBrjBaBGBGB: ;BZBGBGB 



. Ginghams are made with from two 
colors, warp and filling, to eight col- 
ors in warp and six in filling. 

The 1,200 grade is occasionally 
made up in spotted check effect or say 
six black, six white, having a small 
diamond-shaped figure at regular in- 
tervals, produced in dobby looms. 

Another style having great vogue 
some 10 years ago is known as apron 
ginghams, made in 900 grade, and hav- 



rz 


rt 


a 


J 


a 


hr 


QJ 


a 


> 


en 


rt 




O) 


X 


£ 






a 




u 


a 






T3 


rn 


CD 








O 


t- 


U5 


a 


c 


Oil 












OJ 


o 


p 


CD 



346 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ing about three-quarters of the width 
of the cloth woven in a small check, 
4x4, and the remainaer having a large 
pattern, with a woven check in the 
filling. It is usually made in two col- 
ors, and made 36 inches in reed. 

Reed 900 — two ends per dent; 36 
inches in reed; 44 picks filling. Fin- 
ish 34 inches; l-26s warp and filling. 
Plain weave. 

Warp pattern. Filling pattern. 

4 White' } 168 * times = 1 '" 8 eDdS - 4 E 1 * 



Read from top to bottom then 
reverse. 



= 222 endsX 2 = 444 ends In border 
1.34S In ground 



1.792 + 8endsblue 



8 Blue 
2 White 
6 Blue 
10 White 
10 Blue 
22 White 
10 Blue 
10 White 
6 Blue 
2 White 
52 Blue 
2 White 
4 Blue 
10 White 

2 Blue 
16 White 

2 Blue 

10 White 

4 Blue 

2 White 

40 Blue 



Blue for Ginghams. 

Following are the dyeing particu- 
lars of a good blue for a gingham 
(common). 

For 100 pounds yarn, 1st bath: 6 
pounds immedial indone 3B cone; 12 
pounds sodium sulphide crystals; 4 
pounds grape sugar (glucose) ; 3 
pounds soda ash; 4 pounds common 
salt. 

For standing bath: 3 pounds imme- 
dial indone 3B con »; 6 pounds sodium 
sulphide crystals; 1% pounds glucose, 

pound soda ash. 

Immedial indone 3B cone is one of 
the Cassella Color Company's colors. 
Should a bluer shade be required, a 
little, immedial indone B cone can be 
added. If a greener shade is needed, 
a little immedial yellow D can be 
added. 

Dye for one hour, turning the goods 
several times, then squeeze off well by 
means of the squeezing rollers at- 
tached to one end of the vat, and level 
by wringing off rapidly at the wring- 
tag post. 



Then age the yarn three-quarters 
of an hour, rinse well and soap if re- 
quired. Uniform and careful squeez- 
ing and wringing off are essential to 
ensure good levelness of the dyeings. 

Immedial indone 3B cone and B cone 
are excellently suited for the produc- 
tion of every shade of indigo, both for 
light shades when dyed by themselves, 
and for medium and darker shades 
when dyed in combination with im- 
medial direct blue, or the other brands 
of immedial indone. By reason of 
their simple method of application 
they deserve the special attention of 
all branches of cotton dyeing. 

FINISHING FOR GINGHAMS. 

Starch: 2-8 ounces cornstarch; 4-8 
ounces white softening; 1 gallon 
water; mix cold, boil half an hour. 

White softening is from cocoanut 
oil. Pieces are run through a starch 
mangle and onto a cylinder drying 
machine. They are then damped on a 
sprinkler machine and given a light 
calendering. 



CRASH 



Crash is a single cloth fabric, com- 
posed of all-cotton yarns, or of cotton 
and jute. It is used principally for 
toweling and as a covering for fine 
carpets. In some of the southern 
states it is made with a plain weave, 
and worn as a summer men's wear 
fabric, as it is cheaper than linen. 

It is usually made of l-14s, l-16s, 1- 
20s cotton warp and filling, and some- 
times of l-10s and l-12s cotton. As a 
carpet covering, it is woven in a nar- 
row loom, and has either broad or 
narrow stripes in the warp, of fancy 
colored dyed yarns, dark red and dark 
blue being common colors. The ground 
of the cloth is made of cotton yarns in 
the gray, or unbleached state. This 
fabric has the 

APPEARANCE OF LINEN, 
due to the heavy sizing, and calender- 
ing in finishing. Small warp effect 
twill weaves are used, such as 2 — 1, 
either right or left hand, and running 
at 45 degrees, l-16s cotton warp and 
filling crash toweling is made of 
yarns both in the grey and bleached 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



347 



state, generally about l-14s cotton 
warp and filling, in widths varying 
from 15 to 24 inches finished, either 
all bleached or With side and cross 
borders, or in what is known as 

HAIR-LINE PLAIDS. 

Rarely any colors, excepting red or 
navy blue, are used in tow- 
eling. The same weaves are 
used in this line as in ordinary lin- 
ens, namely, the plain weave or 1 up 
and 1 down, in the commoner grades. 
But for bathing purposes, where a 
rough toweling is sometimes requir- 
ed, there is the bird's-eye or hucka- 
back weave — also the eight-end 



HUCKABACK DESIGN. 



□aoi 



□■□■□■□BDB 

ipaoaaaaao □□ccnaoana _,..__ 

2B2HSH2S2H ancnaaacao ncaaaoaann dbdb 
22S2S2B2S2 ganagraacB aaaaaaaoaa anao 

S"SS2Pii D S aQB_oocjacQ bbob 

Dcsipi Drawingin Draft Rwd Plan Harness Chain 



HONEYCOMB DESIGN. 



aBBaaaoa 
aaeaaaaa 
DBDaaaaa 

QQBDBOOa 



OOBOB 

DBGBB 

■ :■■■ 
. ■■■■ 

■ MB 

uaaaa 



ddbbddbb 
BaooBaaa 

Reed Plan 



DQDBDDDD 
DDBCBDDD 

ranaDBoa 
maaaaamn 

DDaaDQDB 



Drawing- io Draft 



honeycomb weave. Toweling, having 
as a design floral or scroll figures, is 
made on narrow looms, having a jac- 
quard machine attached; this sort is 
used for bureau scarfs. 

Crash can be 
WOVEN ON ANY POWER LOOM. 
The kind of loom necessary to pro- 
duce any certain grade of crash is 
governed by the construction of weave 
effect desired, as, for instance, either 
the plain or twill weave effects are 
best adapted to the roller or cam 
loom; the more complicated fancy 
weaves, such as huckabacks and 
honeycomb, necessitate the use of a 
dobby loom. 

TO FINISH CRASH, 
it is first run through a sprinkler, to 
dampen it; then it is put through the 
size tub and rather heavily sized, 
after which it is run through a dryer. 
From the dryer it goes to the calen- 



ders, in which machine the gas-heated 
top roller acts upon the sizing and 
produces the rather glazed effect on 
the face of the cloth. 

Crash toweling using huckaback 
weave: reed 850, 2 ends per dent; 18 
inches wide; l-16s cotton warp and 
filling (bleach); 46 picks of filling; 
finish 16y 2 inches; weight, 1.85 
ounces. 

To make a softer feel, use one-half 
number of picks and wind l-16s and 1- 
20s (1 end of each) on same bobbin, 
and weave it in; this also increases 
the mottled effect. 

Crash toweling using honeycomb 
weave; reed 850, 2 ends per dent; 20 
inches wide; 2-20s cotton warp and 
filling (bleach); 44 picks of filling; 
loom width, 16 ounces; no finish; 
weight, Z^A ounces. Use dobby loom 
for each of these fabrics. 

In making honeycomb toweling, if 
using a cross border, the Crompton 
double cylinder or two-weave dobby 
is the most convenient, as the border 
weave and the body weave each has 
its separate harness chain, and is 
worked from the box chain. 



THE FINISHING. 

Detailed Description of the Process ot 

Crash Finishing. 

To finish a piece of crash ready for 
the market: If the piece is clean 
enough and a cheap, rough finish is 
required, the first process is starching. 
A very light starch liquor is neces- 
sary, to one gallon of water, two to six 
ounces of cornstarch, one-half to one 
pound cocoanut oil softening. Mix in 
cold water and boil together for 30 
minutes. The pieces are passed 
through a starch mangle at full width. 
over a drying machine of steam cyl- 
inders. They are then passed through 
a light calender to straighten the 
goods out, and smoothed down a little. 
They are then folded up, packed in 
cases and shipped away. 

The goods can be bleached, each 
piece being placed separately in a 
kier, or the ends sewed together and 
the goods run into a kier, with a 4 de- 
gree Tw. solution of caustic soda, and 
boiled six to eight hours. 



348 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



The goods are then run through 
A WASHING MACHINE 
and returned to the kier, and the soda 
boil repeated for eight hours. The 
goods are run through a washing ma- 
chine, and through a solution of oil of 
vitriol y 2 degree Tw., washed again, 
and run through a solution of chloride 
of lime at V 2 degree Tw., piled in a 
bin for eight hours, run through an 
acid solution of oil of vitriol y 2 degree 
Tw., and well washed until all trace of 
acid is eliminated. If any acid is left 
in the goods, the goods, being very 
heavy, will be tender, as they will re- 
tain so much acid when dried on the 
drying machine that they will have the 
fibre of the cloth injured. The goods 
are then starched with four to six 
ounces to a gallon of cornstarch, one- 
half pound cocoanut oil, white soften- 
ing. This is to add a little fullness to 
the cloth without making it too stiff 
and starchy. The goods are then dried 
on a tenter frame at full width, to 
keep them straight and have the weft 
perfectly straight across the piece. 

If required, they are then given a 
light calendering. If a light buff or 
ecru is required, a little color is add- 
ed to the starch liquor, or the goods 
are dyed on a jigger machine, or on a 
padding machine. 

These goods will stand a great 
amount of wearing, and look dressy 
and chic, without being too expensive. 



DOMET OR OUTING CLOTH 

Domet, or outing cloth, Is a single 
cloth, composed of single cotton yarns, 
generally 1-20 to 1-26 warp yarn, and 
l-14s or l-16s cotton or cotton and 
cotton shoddy mixed filling yarns. It 
is made in bright colored stripe and 
plaid patterns, and is used in the man- 
ufacture of shirts, pajamas, etc., and 
is always woven with a plain weave, 
or 1 up, 1 down. 

In effect it is a fabric having 
A SOFT, REGULAR NAP 
on both sides of the goods and in ap- 
pearance is very similar to a flannel. 

The nap is produced by carding or 
brushing up the loose outside fibres 
on a rather slack twisted filling yarn, 



by running the cloth through a nap- 
ping machine. 

The napper is a machine consisting 
of a series of woolen rollers, through 
which the cloth passes, as the ma- 



■HHST3&&* 



vm 




Domet. 



chine is working automatically. The 
brush roller, that part of the machine 
which raises the nap, is a wooden cyl- 
inder covered with wire card clothing, 
and is in fact the same as a fancy on a 
woolen card. This brush roller is set 
on the top of the machine near the 
center, and is so arranged that the 
cloth passes between it and a wooden 
or other solid roller or cylinder, and 
as the brush roller revolves, the wire 
teeth in the card clothing come in con- 
tact with the surface of the cloth and 
as they are running in opposite diiac 
tions, the filling being the softest, the 
natural result is a nap being raised. 
A domet fabric may have either a 
high or long nap, or a short or close 
nap. 

THE DEGREE OF NAP 

to be produced is governed first by 
the experienced judgment of tbe man- 
ufacturer in buying a filling yarn 
which will produce the best results, 
namely, a fine nap, with minimum loss 
of strength as a thread, as a knowl- 
edge of the amount of filling twist and 
in a given count, less the percentage 
of twist, to create proper degree of 
slackness in the yarn, is found con- 
venient when buying this kind of yarn. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Domet is generally made on a roll- 
er or cam loom, as a cloth receives 
NO FINISH, EXCEPTING THE NAP. 
The selling width of the cloth is about 
29% inches. During the process of 
napping, a domet loses a small per- 
centage of the filling weight. This 
waste is called fly, as it is used by 



Domet. 

shoddy manufacturers in the produc- 
tion of heavy backing yarns. 

Warp colors used in domet stripes, 
dark blue, light blue, light brown, pink 
and light green. 

Filling: all white for stripes, and in 
some grades, cotton and cotton shoddy 
mixed yarns give the fabric a dark 
tone, after the napping. The last- 
named grade is used extensively as a 
working shirt for machinists, as it 
doesn't show the soiled places very 
readily, and will tear easily if caught 
in the machinery. 

Warp stripe domet: reed 800; 2 
ends par dent, 31% inches, l-22s cot- 
ton warp yarns, 36 picks. 

l-16s cotton filling, 11 turns twist 
(will produce good, close nap). 

Selling width 29% inches. 

Plain weave on four harness; 
drawn-in 1, 2, 3, 4. 

Weight, 2.3 ounces, about. 

Amount of filling twist, less about 
15 per cent, will give good results in 
napping. 

Filling loses about % per cent of its 
weight during napping process. 

Carding Particulars. 

The raw stock used for these goods 
should be American of about 1 1-16 
inch staple. The usual plan of mixing 



the cotton is followed of having the 
mixings as large as possible, but no 
other special attention need be given 

obdbdbdb 

mamamaua 

dbqbobob oddbdodb 

mamamoma DOBaoDBD □□■■on»B 

OBOBQBOB OBOOOBaa BBOOBb55 
BDBDBDBQ BDDOBDDQ -"«-'—"" 

OBOBQBQB 
BQBQBQBQ 

Design. Drawlng-ln Draft. Reed Plan. 

to it. At the pickers the only special 
feature to look out for is 

THE SPEED OF THE BEATER. 

This should be run at above the aver- 
age speed, because the cotton used 
generally contains more than the av- 
erage amount of dirt, etc., found in 
cotton. The weight of the lap at the 
front of the finisher picker should be 
heavy. At the card the only special 
features to be careful of are the set- 
tings. These should be open because 
of the weight of the lap put in at the 
card and also because the production 
of this machine with this class of 
goods is large. The most special at- 
tention given to this class of goods is 
at 

THE DRAWING FRAME, 

three processes being the usual num- 
ber run. The most important points 
to look out for are as follows: that 
the settings are all right, the top 
leather rolls are properly covered, 
and that they have no channels or 
are not hollowed out along their en- 
tire length, that the top rolls are kept 
properly varnished, that the stop mo- 
tions are properly adjusted, and last- 
ly that the condensing or large front 
calender rolls are set so that the 
proper pressure is brought to bear on 
the cotton sliver being passed be- 
tween them. It may be just as well to 
say 

A FEW THINGS 

here about the drawing frame which 
apply not only to the class of cloth 
under description, but also to all cot- 
ton yarns for all classes of work. Too 
little attention is given to the draw- 
ing frame. Just because it is one of 
the most simply constructed machines 
used in the card room, it generally 



350 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



receives the least attention. This 
should not be the case, however, be- 
cause the drawing frame, unless 
properly looked after, will make a 
great deal of difference to the appear- 
ance of the yarn made. If the draw- 
ing frame is properly looked after it 
will be found that the roving being 
made will be a great deal evener than 
if the drawing frames are left to look 
after themselves. Particular atten- 
tion should always be given to the 

DIFFERENT STOP MOTIONS 
to see that they are doing what is re- 
quired of them. It will be seen that if 
only one stop motion in a head does 
not work properly and allows an end 
to pass through the machine without 
stopping it, the resulting finished 
yarn is going to be lighter at that cer- 
tain part and in this wiy make an 
uneven yarn. I know that it will be 
said that the drafts and doublings at 
the future machines 

WILL HELP TO OVERCOME 
this defect, but if the adjustment 
were made at the drawing frame this 
particular defect would not exist. Per- 
haps a good thing for card room over- 
seers to paste in their hats would be, 
"Watch your drawing frames, first, 
last and always." We have wandered 
somewhat from the subject under de- 
scription and will conclude the card- 
ing end of it by saying that no special 
points, outside of the ones generally 
followed, need be given to the making 
of the roving. A great deal of the un- 
evenness of the yarn, if any exists, is 
covered up because the cloth is 
napped. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The colors in the fabric illustrated 
can be dyed in the yarn or raw stock. 
The dyeing particulars are as fol- 
lows: 

GRAY. 

For 100 pounds of raw stock for 
dark gray, Cassella Color Company. 

1st bath: 15 pounds immedial black 
N. G.; 4 ounces immedial yellow D.; 
10 pounds sodium sulphide; 7 pounds 
soda ash; 12 pounds cryst. Glauber's 
salt. 



2d and standing bath: 7 pounds im- 
medial black N. G. ; 1 ounce immedial 
yellow D. ; 5 pounds sodium sulphide; 
3 pounds soda ash; 4 pounds cryst. 
Glauber's salt. 

Enter stock, raw cotton, at the boil, 
and keep at 200 degrees F. for one 
hour. 

Wash well with water and squeeze 
through rollers, and repeat operation 
of washing several times, until cotton 
is perfectly clean. 

FOR LIGHT GRAY. 

1st bath: 8 pounds immedial black 
N. G., Cassella Color Company; 3 
ounces immedial yellow D., Cassella 
Color Company; 8 pounds sodium sul- 
phide; 6 pounds soda ash; 10 pounds 
cryst. Glauber's salt. 

2d and standing bath: 5 pounds im- 
medial black N. G.; 2 ounces imme- 
dial yellow D.; 5 pounds sodium sul- 
phide; 4 pounds soda ash; 5 pounds 
cryst. Glauber's salt. 

Enter stock at boil, and keep at 200 
degrees F. for one hour. 
Wash well, as with darker shade. 
The immedial colors of the Cassella 
Color Company are absolutely fast to 
washing and sunlight, and are free 
from sulphur, so that there is not the 
danger of tendering the fibre as with 
so many of the sulphur colors. 

The immedial colors are gradually 
replacing the direct one-dip colors 
which have had so long a run, and 
which were used so extensively for 
the last 10 years or more. 

The immedial colors are now made 
into blacks, blues, browns, yellows, 
greens, wines and very soon there 
will be a full range of shades made, 
to match all colors required in cotton 
goods. The immedial blues are as 
fast as the indigo shades so long used 
for all fast colors. 

PINK. 

For 100 pounds raw stock, cotton: 
20 pounds Glauber's salt; 2 pounds sal 
soda; 5 ounces diamine rose G. D. 

Enter at boil and boil one hour. 
Wash well in water. 
BLUE. 

For 100 pounds raw stock, cotton: 
20 pounds Glauber's salt; 2 pounds sal 
soda; 1% pounds diamine blue B. X. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



351 



Enter at boil and boil one hour. 
Wash well in water. The diamine rose 
G. D. and the diamine blue B. X. are 
from the Cassella Color Company and 
are very level dyeing colors and very 
fast to light and washing. 

A variety of colors, of course, can 
be used in the dyeing of this fabric. 



ZEPHYR GINGHAM 

Zephyr gingham is the finest grade 
of gingham irade, and is a light- 
weight cotton fabric, composed of 1- 
40s to l-60s cotton warp and filling 
yarns. 

It is woven with either the plain 
weave or a small all-over dobby ef- 
fect. It is made in very attractive 
patterns by using good fast colors in 
warp and filling, and, as a cloth, has 
splendid wearing qualities. 

From 

TWO TO TEN COLORS 
can be used in both warp and filling, 
the filling colors being governed by 
the number of shuttles the loom will 
run, and this number is increased by 
the introduction of fancy colored, 
printed yarns. 

Zephyr gingham is made up into 




Zephyr G'ngham. 
such patterns as light and dark tone, 
shaded plaids, corded and ribbed 
stripes, small checks and broad, deli- 
cately colored plaids, having a ran- 
dom printed yarn coloring, and this 
last combination is woven on a dobby 
loom, using as a design a small 
broken twill arrangement. The effect 
produced is something on the order 
of a jacquard pattern. 

MIXED COLOR EFFECTS 
are made by dressing the warp, one 
end white, one end fancy print, for, 



say, 100 ends, and then making a rib 
by using a satin weave for eight or 
ten ends of a dirk color, such as 
black, blue or red brown. This style 
is made in stripes, as stated above, 
also in plaids by using all white fill- 
ing to cross the one and one dressing 






WMmdmkmk 




9^msmsmat 



Zephyr Gingham. 

in the warp and a correspondingly 
dark colored filling squared with the 
satin rib in the warp. 

CORDED EFFECTS 
are produced by drawing in 2, 3, 4 
ends in one heddle and split, and this 
is squared in the filling by using a 
correspondingly heavy thread, as, for 
instance, 3 ends 1-4 Us warp in one 
heddle and 1 pick of 3-40s in filling. 
This would require such a loom as 
the Knowles 4x4 box dobby loom. 

For a roller loom, using plain weave, 
and making a cord, draw warp in, as 
stated above, or make two cords side 
by side by drawing in two ends per 
heddle and four ends in split, and 
square this by two picks, each of 1- 
20s cotton filling. 

Zephyr gingham can be woven on 
any roller loom. Of this style loom the 
4x1 box is the more suitable. For 
more elaborate filling patterns there 
is the Crompton 6x1 box gingnam 
loom, and for fancy weave effect take 
a loom having a spring bottom dobby 
motion attached. 

Automatic looms are beginning to 
be installed for the production of 
fancy zepnyr ginghams. In instances 
it is claimed that as many as six 
colors are being woven on an au- 
tomatic loom, and giving much more 



352 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Cord Cord 

iOBOBQHHQaoBDHnBoauonaa 

OBGBGBaaGBaBGBGBGBGBBBGB _ 

BDBcanBBBaBDBuBnBQBQjSaa Design. 
Dbgbgbgggbgbgbgbgbgbbbcb 

■QBaBaBBflaBDBDBGBDBDaDBa 

OBGBGBGGGBGBQBCBaBGBBBGB 
BGBGBGBBBGBGBGBGBGBGGGBa 

DaaaQaaGGGaaaaaaaaaQaaaa 
DaaaGaaaaaaoaaaacaGaagoa 
DGaaGaanaDDDoaDDDDDDDDDa 
oaaaonaaaoDoaDGOGQooDaaa 
DDDBnnaGGBGGDBDDnBDDDaDB Drawine-in- 

aCBCaaBG3DDGBGGaBDDOD3BD ld - vw "S 
DBDDDBGQDGGBGEGBGGaBDDDD draft. 

BDaaBaaaaaBGGGBaDaBDaQaa 

GGOGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaaGaaGaaaQaaaa 
aDBBODBBBaoBaaaaBaDBBBDa Reed nlaa. 

■BDQBBGaDBBDaBBaaBBaQDBB """ * 



BCBGBGBGBBBBBrJBBBGBGBGBG 
nBDBaBGBBBGBBBBBGBGBGBOB 
BGBCBaBGBBBBBBBaBGBDBGBa 

BCBCBnBGBDBBBBBBBaBGBGBQ J -' col 6"" 

CBOBOaCBBBBBBB ".BOB DBC'BQB 
BDBCBDBGBBBGBBBBBCBGBOBa 
DBaBCBGBaBBBBBBBDBaBOBDB 

D3DnDDDaDDnannaDDDDDnnna 

ODDaacnaaaDnnDDDDDDDaaDa 
ao-QDaazocnDQaoaocaGQoooa 

DDDJnDDQaDDDDDDDaiZDCDaOa 

□DazacaDnaraDUGBcauaDDca 
GQaGaaaaaaaQaaBGGGaccaaa 
DaaaaDaacGGGGBaaGGaGGaan 
GaanaaGnaGGGBaGaGLQaaGQG r, r „„,;.„ :., 

BaaGQGoaQBGaaaaaaaGQaaaa aran. 
OnuDUDnBQCQQODDDOQOOPOD- 
ODDBOClDBnnanaDnDCDDBDDOB 
DDBDaDBaDDDDGDDDCnBDDDBa 

OBDaaBaCD3GCCCCCCJB3aGBD3 
BGGZHG "3 .CGGGGir.BZGGBaaa 

DDGDacaGnnDDaEaDDDaaDaaa 
GGi laoaaGaDGDaDnaaaaGanaa 

GGBBGGBBGPGGBBBBGGBBGGBB Reed nlan 
■BDDBBGGBaBBaDDaBBaaBBGa J: "- ,:ru vumm. 



Fancy Dobby Weave Zephyr. 

■GBGBGBGBGBBBGGG 

CBaBGBGBQBBBaBaa 
BBBGBGBGBBBBBGGG 



GBGBBBGBnBGBnBOG 

BBBGBBBGBBBGBOOG 
DBGBBBGBB»BBGBaa 

- - ■- - ' — GGG 
_JGG ■ 

__jodq chain 
■■■■oaoaaacBGBoa 
BBBBBGaaBGBGBGaa exactly 

SBBBGBGaGBGBGBGG ... 
CBaBaaGBaaaaacn like 

aBGBGBGBBBCBGBna ,,-_,.__ 

BGBGBGBBBBBGBGGG design. 

BBGaGBHBBBBBrjBGG 

BBBGCBBBBBBBGGGG 

BBBBBBBB JBBBGGGG 

BBB1BBBGBZBBBGGG 

OBBaBBGBGBGBGBGG 

BGBBBGBGBCBGBGGG 

OBGBGBGBGBGBGBGG 

DBGBBGaGBGBGBBGD 

BBBBGBOBGBCBGBGG 

gggggg v ; i:jg~gqgg 
CGaaaaaaaaaaaaaa 
GaaGaaaaaaaQDBaa 
ggg \ :gggggggbggg 
aaGaaanaDanBDaaa 
GGaaaaaaaaBQaaaa 
QGacaaaaoBaaaaGa 
GacGGDaaBaaDGGaa 

DDDDDaDBDDDDCDDn riri winf-in- 

1 1 ' ,: v; w . .; :, r ■; .: .y\ JJranin -ni 



DDDD3BnDDDDDnCDn 
DaDDBDaaDDDDDDDD 

oaaBoaQDoaaoDDoa 

CGBCZZaaaDDDDDDD 
DBDDDQanDnaaDDDD 

BDDaC3DDDDQDCDDa 
□DDDDDDDDDDDDDOa 
[JGGG'JGGGCGGCGCQa 
DGBBGGI 

■ar^ 



draft. 



satisfactory results than were previ- 
ously obtained. In order to usa au- 
tomatic looms successfully, a great 
deal more attention must be given to 
the yarns which are used in the va- 
rious cloths. Certain mills have had 
to purchase longer cotton and install 
more up-to-date preparatory machin- 
ery when they installed automatic 
looms for the production of staple 
fabrics, and while this same condition 
does not apply to so great an extent 
on ginghams, nevertheless it is one 
of the important items. 

COLORS FOR ZEPHYR. 

Black, light blue, dark blue, light 
brown, pink, red, tan, ecru, canary, 
orange, new blue, old gold. Print 
yarns can be obtained of almost any 
color desired. 

A good grade of zephyr gingham is 
made as follows: 

Reed 1500, two ends per split, 29 
inches wide, 80 picks: weight, two 
ounces about: l-50s cotton warp and 
filling; finish 27 inches. 



COLOR EFFECT. 



IBBDGBBGGBBQariOR AA rt nlnn 

□aBBDDBBGGBBQia tteea pian. 



Warp 
Frown. 
Blue. 
Brown. 
Blue. 
Brown. 
Blue. 
Brown. 
B'ue. 

White cord 
Blue. 
White. 
Whlt-> cord 
White. 
Blue. 
White. 
White cord 
White. 
Blue. 
White. 
White cord 
White. 
Flue. 
White. 
White cord 
White. 
B'ue. 
White. 
White cord 
White. 
B'ue. 

White cord 
Blue. 
Brown. 

Biue. 



pattern. 



equals 3 
equals 3 



ends, 
ends. 



equals 3 ends, 
equals 3 ends, 
equals 3 ends. 



equals 3 
equals 3 



ends. 
ends. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



353 



SHADED PLAID. 

Filling same as warp pattern. 

Pattern continued. 

6 Brown. 

6 Blue. 

8 Brown. 

4 Blue. 

4 Brown. 

2 Black. 

4 Brown. 

1 White cord equals 3 ends. 

4 Brown. 

4 Black. 

4 Brown. 

1 White cord equals 3 ends. 
4 Brown. 

2 Black. 

The finish consists of sprinkling and 
of running cloth through very thin siz- 
ing, after which it is tentered and cal- 
endered. 



Carding Particulars. 
Various grades of cotton as well as 
different lengths of staple are used for 
the class of goods described. The 
length . of staple used for the former 
goods is about 1 3-8 inches and gen- 
erally American cotton is used. The 
mixings should be as large as possible 
so as to obtain an even yarn. It will 
be at once seen that if small mixings 
are used there will be some little dif- 
ference in each mixing and just this 
little difference will show up in the 
finished yarn. This applies not only 
to this mixing for the class of goods 
described but to all mixings for all 
goods, and 

THE MIXING 

of cotton is one of the most particular 
points of carding, because if different 
lengths of staple are allowed to be 
mixed together, it is bound to cause 
trouble in addition to uneven yarn. 
Every bale of cotton should be sepa- 
rately stapled before it is allowed to 
be put into the mixing, and - if the 
staple is longer or shorter than the 
cotton already mixed, it should be put 
one side. 

The cotton should be run through 
openers and two processes of pickers, 
although a great many mills use three 
processes; but all the newer plants 
being built have only two processes 
of pickers. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 

should be about 1,050 revolutions per 
minute for the opener and 1,500 rev- 



olutions per minute for the breaker 
and 1,450 revolutions per minute for 
the finisher, a 12 to 13 ounce lap be- 
ing made at the finisher picker. 

The card should have closer set- 
tings than for the cloth described pre- 
viously. Special attention should be 
given to the setting of the back plate 
to the licker-in. If this plate is set 
too close the cotton will be broken 
and if set too far away will cause 
bunches to come through. It is al- 
ways just as well, when setting a card 
for new length of stock or changing 
over, to sample the cotton, both be- 
fore it enters the card and after it 
leaves it, to compare the two staples 
and to see if they are of the same 
length. A good weight per yard for 
sliver at the card for this class of 
goods is 50 grains. On the former 
grades of the goods under description 

THE COTTON IS COMBED. 

This, of course, means extra expense 
because of the extra machines used, 
but it also makes the yarn evener be- 
cause at the comber all the short fi- 
bers are taken out, leaving all the fi- 
bres of the same length. When comb- 
ers are used only two processes of 
drawing are regarded, but when the 
combers are not used for this class 
of goods then three processes of 
drawing are used. For this class of 
goods only 15 per cent waste should 
be taken out at the comber. 

At the speeders or fly frames the 
drawing sliver is put through the 
slubber, 1st intermediate, 2d inter- 
mediate and fine frames, the finished 
hank roving ranging from 8 to 12 
hank. In the samples under descrip- 
tion the hank used would be about 12. 
Watch the settings of the rolls at the 
fly frames and see that all your 
frames are set alike. These settings 
should be looked after all the time 
and should lapping or bunching occur 
it is a pretty good indication fiat 
something is wrong with your roll 
settings. If many frames are being 
run on the same stock, 

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT 
to have all the change gears the same, 
especially the draft gear. It some- 
times happens that the wrong draft 



354 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



gear will be put on one frame and the 
result is that the yarn is delivered to 
the ring spinning room or mule room 
uneven. It will also cause a great deal 
of trouble in sizing the yarns. This 
trouble is greater if the wrong gear is 
put on one of the 2d intermediate 
frames because the draft gear on these 
machines is seldom changed and you 
might not look here for the troublo 
for a long time and until considerable 
annoyance had been caused. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The colors in the fabric illustrated 
are dyed in the yarn. The dyeing par- 
ticulars are as follows: 

LIGHT TAN. 
For 100 pounds yarn: 12 ounces 
immedial yellow D., pat.; 2 ounces im- 
medial olive B., pat.; 7 ounces im- 
medial cutch G., pat.; 5 pounds sodium 
sulphide; 10 pounds cryst. Glauber's 
salt; 3 pounds soda ash. Enter yarn 
at boil and boil one hour. Wash well 
with two or three waters. 

ECRU. 
For 100 pounds yarn: 6 ounces im- 
medial yellow D, pat.; 1 ounce imme- 
dial olive B., pat.; 4 ounces immedial 
cutch G., pat.; 5 pounds sodium sul- 
phide; 10 pounds cryst. Glauber's 
salt; 3 pounds soda ash. Enter yarn at 
boil. Boil one hour. Wash well with 
two or three clean waters. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 8 ounces im- 
medial brown B., pat.; 1 pound, 4 
ounces immedial cutch O., pat.; 5 
pounds sodium sulphide; 10 pounds 
cryst. Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda 
ash. Enter yarn at boil, and boil one 
hour. Wash well with two or three 
waters. 

OLD GOLD. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 2 per cent im- 
medial yellow D, pat; 6 per cent so- 
dium sulphide; 12 per cent cryst. 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash. 
Enter yarn at boil. Boil one hour. 
Wash well with two or three waters. 

PINK. 
For 100 pounds yarn: 6 ounces dia- 
mine rose G D, pat; 2 pounds sal so- 



da; 25 pounds Glauber's salt. Enter at 
boil. Boil one hour. Wash well in 
water. 

NEW BLUE. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 3 per cent im- 
medial sky blue powdered cone; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 10 per cent 
cryst. Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda 
ash. 

After treated with V 2 per cent bich- 
rome potash; y 2 per cent bluestone. 
Wash well with water. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
For 100 pounds yarn: \y 2 per cent 
immedial indone B, pat.; iy 2 per cent 
immedial sky blue powered cone; 5 
pounds sodium sulphide; 10 pounds 
cryst. Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda 
ash. Enter at boil. Boil one hour. 
Wash well with water. 

DARK BLUE. 
For 100 pounds yarn: 5 pounds im- 
medial indone blue, 3 B, pat; 10 
pounds sodium sulphide; 15 pounds 
cryst. Glauber's salt; 5 pounds soda 
ash. Enter at boil. Boil one hour. 
Wash well with water. 

ORANGE. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 5 pounds im- 
medial orange C, pat.; 8 pounds so- 
dium sulphide; 15 pounds cryst Glau- 
ber's salt; 5 pounds soda ash. Enter 
at boil. Boil one hour. Wash well in 
two or three waters. 

BLACK. 

For 100 pounds yarn, 1st bath: 20 
pounds immedial black NN. cone; 12 
pounds sodium sulphide; 20 pounds 
cryst. Glauber's salt; 5 pounds soda 
ash. 

2d bath: 10 pounds immedial black 
N N cone; 8 pounds sodium sulphide; 
15 pounds cryst. Glauber's salt; 4 
pounds soda ash. 

Enter at boil. Boil one hour. Wash 
well in two or three clean waters. 



The Finishing. 
In the finishing process use: 4 to 8 
ounces cornstarch, 4 to 8 ounces co- 
coanut oil, white softening, 1 gallon 
water. Mix cold, boil half an hour. 
Starch through mangle. Run over 
drying cylinders. Sprinkle, and cal- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



355 



ender through light calender. After 
starching, the goods are sometimes 
dried over the tenter frame to keep 
the pattern straight across the piece. 



CRINOLINE 

Crinoline is a fabric composed of 
cotton warp, horsehair filling or all 
cotton yarns. It is sold in varying 
widths, and is used by tailors and 
dressmakers in stiffening clothing. 

It is a cheap cloth of low texture 
and simple construction, 

THE DISTINGUISHING FEATURE 
being the stiff finish with either a dull 
or highly glazed face on the cloth. 
Crinoline, having a horsehair fill- 
ing, requires a loom of special con- 
struction to handle the hair, as it is 
hung in a neat bundle on the end of 
the loom, the hair being of a uniform 
length and color, generally black; the 
mechanism on the loom drawing a 
strand of hair from the bunch and 
placing it in the shed formed by the 
harness. A herring-bone twill weave 
is used in this grade of the cloth. 
Practically 

THE SAME EFFECT 
can be produced by using a glazed 
warp thread and a cotton filling. 
The glazing process is to take the 
cotton warp thread, and after 
charging heavily with a solution of 
sizing, the yarns are run through su- 
per-heated cylinders and rollers, the 




Crinoline. 

effect being a highly polished surface 
to the yarn. 

Crinoline composed of regular cot- 
ton yarns is stiffened by weighting 



the size, in some cases, equals 20 per 
cent of that of the yarns used in con- 
struction. 

Crinoline is made generally on the 
roller or cam loom of l-20s to l-26s 
cotton warp and filling yarn, using 
25 to 40 ends and picks per inch, the 
cloth losing about 10 per cent of its 
width from loom to finished width. 
The warps are sized 6 to 10 per cent 
and the woven cloth made to absorb 
15 to 20 per cent of its weight, during 
sizing operation. 

TO FINISH CRINOLINE 
means to stiffen it. The cloth is 
therefore taken direct from the loom 
to the size tubs and after this opera- 



DHDDDHnB 

BDBpanaa 
omcmaunm 

BOBOBQHD 
QBDHOBOB 
BDBOBOBD 
DBOBQBDB 

■DBQHDB3 



DDnBDODB 
□QBGDOBO 
DBDDDBDD 
■DDDBDDa 



DDDBBHDDDBBB 
OOBBEDOaBOBB 
DHHnDDDBBDDi 
BBBOOOBBBOga 
BBaDDBBBDBDD 
■QQQB.MQQBBO 



ODOOdBDOOBaO 
DDDDBDDDDaBD 

DDDBaaaaaanB 

DClBQDQQOBQaa 
DBDDDDDBDDDn 

■QQDdDBDaQQa 



Two Brpeats 

■DDDnBDDDD 

DDOBnnngBa 
OBOQoaBana 

DDDDBDDDDB 
DDBDDDDBDQ 



nnODBDOOOB 

naamonaamn 

DDBDDDDBDD 
DBDOODBODO 

■QQDOBaaaa 



rniinn onaBDOBBOOBB D 25B22SR22 

■IDQIIOD BBODBBCUBBDn BBUQBBDDBB 



No. 1. 



No. 2. 



No. 3. 



1. Crinoline. Plain weave. 

2. Crinoline. Herring-bone Weave. 

3. Haircloth; 5 harness satin filling ef- 
fect. 

tion it is run through the cylinders 
to dry it, after which the glaze finish 
is produced by the action of the heat- 
ed rollers in the calender machine. 
The cloth is then rolled or lapped, to 
whatever size bolt desired, the bolt 
pressed in plate press, and the 
crinoline is ready for the packing 
cases. 

Crinoline is usually made in either 
solid black or cotton in the gray; 
plain weave; reed 700; 1 end per split; 
2iy 2 inches reed; l-26s cotton warp 
and filling; 36 picks; 20 per cent size 
in finish. 

Color, black; weight, 1.9 ounces; 
16 square inches, weight 15.1 grains, 
finished weight; 16 square inches, 
weight 12.1 grains after sizing is re- 
moved. 

Horsehair is used in manufactur- 
ing haircloth, a fabric used for fur- 



the fabric with sizing; the weight ofniture covering, the weave being a 



356 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



filling effect satin (generally about 
five harness) to throw hair on the 
face of the cloth. These satin 
weaves permit of about 15 per cent 
more ends and picks than are used in 
an ordinary weave. This is due to the 
long floats in either warp or filling 
effect satins. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Although the yarns used to make 
crinoline are what are called coarse 
yarns it must not be thought that 
they may be neglected in any way in 
the carding and spinning, because 
coarse yarns should not be thrown to- 
gether any more than the finer counts 
of yarns. We should not turn our at- 
tention from the carding and spinning 
of coarse yarns and let them be run 
through the different machines until 
the required count is made, but we 
should give special attention to the 
production end of these yarns, as it is 
here we can make the best showing. 
In coarse counts of yarns it should be 
our aim to get as large a production 
from each machine as possible and 

NOT OVERLOAD THE MACHINE, 

and at the same time produce as good 
a finished yarn as possible. Another 
thing, when making coarse counts of 
yarn we are not required to take out 
as large a percentage of waste as 
when we are making the firmer 
counts, and while enough waste 
should be taken out so that the yarn 
will not be bunchy, still it will be 
at once seen that the settings will 
not be as "close" as when the firmer 
counts of yarn are being made. 

A low-grade, short-staple class of 
cotton is generally used for making 
the class of goods under description. 
Sometimes this is used straight but 
some mills use waste from the comber 
in the mixing as well as the low-grade 
cotton. Generally 

TWO PROCESSES 

of picking and opening are used, the 
speed of the beater being around 1,500 
revolutions per minute, the beats per 
inch being between 42 and 45. The 
beater is run at a higher speed on 



short-staple cotton for two reasons: 
First, because it is necessary to run it 
at a higher rate of speed in order to 
get all the dirt out; and second, be- 
cause it can be run at a higher speed 
because there is not so much liability 
of making neps, for the reason that 
the staple is short and does not ball 
up as easily as the long-staple cot- 
tons. 

The weight of the whole lap at the 
finisher picker is about 40 pounds, or 
about 14% ounces to the yard in 
length. 

THE CARDS 

are set so that the tops are about 12- 
1,000 of an inch away from the cylin- 
der wire (coarse wire being used on 
both cylinder and doffer fillets). The 
licker-in knives are set as close as 
possible without touching, so that they 
may throw out as much dirt as pos- 
sible. The draft of this machine 
should be about 100, the production 
from 750 to 1,000 pounds for this class 
of goods and the weight of sliver per 
yard at the front about 65 grains per 
yard. The ones in charge of the cards 
should see that the cards are properly 
ground because when running large 
productions of low-grade cotton the 
wire on the fillet becomes dull and 
does not perform its duty. 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING 

are used, generally 6 ends up. As 
the weight per yard of sliver is heavy 
at the drawing frame for this class 
of goods, a point to look out for is to 
see that the weights attached to the 
top rolls are sufficient to hold them 
down so that they will not jump. The 
weight of the sliver at the point of 
the finisher drawing should be about 
75 grains and the speed of the front 
roll about 400 revolutions per minute; 
the hank roving at the slubbers 
about .40; at the first intermediate 
fiy frame 1.40 and at the second inter- 
mediate 3.75 to 4.25 hank. From the 
second intermediate frame the roving 
goes to the spinning frame, where it is 
spun into the required yarn, or from 
20s to 26s, being used for this class of 
goods, i.e., crinolines. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



357 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Crinoline linings are generally- 
dyed with a cheap logwood black. 

'Make up a solution of logwood ex- 
tract at 6 degrees Tw. Add common 
wood acid, 6 degrees Tw., 1 pint acid, 
1 gallon logwood, 6 degrees Tw. Run 
through two-box machine, pieces run- 
ning into liquor 8 to 10 times, and 
through nip of two rubber rollers, 
liquor at the boil. Dry on cylinder 
drying machine, and run through 
chrome bath of y 2 pound bichromate 
soda to 1 gallon water, and run 
through a steaming box to develop 
the color. Wash well in water. Starch, 
Vz pound dextrin, 1 gallon water. 
Boil the starch up for one hour before 
starching. Dry on cylinders or on 
tenter frames, as required. Some 
crinoline linings are calendered in 
friction calender, and afterwards em- 
bossed on embossing machine with a 
slash pattern. 

Some crinoline linings are starched 
by hand in the tub, and stretched on 
a stenter frame and dried on the 
frame. 



DAMASK FABRICS 

The name damask is technically 
applied to certain classes of fabrics, 
richly decorated with figures of fo- 
liage, fruits, scrolls and other orna- 
mental patterns, usually of a large and 
elaborate character. 

The weaves usually employed are 
twills (mostly satin) and the figures 
in the fabric are made by alternately 
exchanging warp for weft surface or 
vice versa. 

The materials employed vary ac- 
cording to the purpose to which the 
fabrics are to be applied. In the man- 
ufacture of upholstery cloth for hang- 
ings and furniture covering, silk or 
worsted is used, while for table cov- 
ers, towels, napkins, etc., linen is 
generally employed, except in the 
cheapest grades, when cotton is the 
material used. 

The name was derived from the city 
of Damascus, when that city was a 
center for the production of textile 
fabrics, and originally was applied 



only to silken fabrics, whose designs 
were very elaborately woven in colors 
and often with gold thread. 

About the twelfth century the above- 
mentioned city, even then long cele- 
brated for the production of its 
looms, so far outstripped all other 
places for beauty of design, that her 
silken textiles were in demand every- 
where, and thus, as often happens, 
traders fastened the name of Damas- 
cen or Damask upon every silken fab- 
ric richly wrought and curiously de- 
signed, no matter whether it came or 
not from Damascus. 

In order to explain the modus oper- 
andi for the production of damask in 
this country, suppose we place our- 
selves in the position of a public de- 
signer, whose specialty is the design- 
ing of patterns for such fabrics. 

THE SKETCH. 

The first step in the operation is to 
prepare a dozen or more sketches, 
which are to be shown to manufactur- 
ers to take their choice. A specimen 
of such is illustrated by Fig. 1 (re- 
duced), the original of which is 
drawn on ordinary tracing paper, the 
exact size, as it will appear in the 
cloth. 

This design or sketch is to be made 
into a damask table cover, having 50 
threads warp and 44 picks weft per 
inch, the figure of which is to be a 5- 
leaf 4 — 1 satin twill (warp face) and 
the ground a 5-leaf 1 — 4 satin twill 
(weft face). 

PROPER DESIGN PAPER. 

The next step to be taken is to se- 
lect the proper designing paper, the 
size of which, that is, the number of 
rectangles, warp and weft, in each 
large square, must be in the exact pro- 
portion to the number of threads 
(warp) and picks (weft) in one inch 
of the finished cloth. The mode of fig- 
uring is after the following manner: 

Paper for warp ruled eight rec- 
tangles per large square; paper for 
weft ruled in the same ratio to eight 
as 44 is to 50. 

Operation: x : 8 : : 44 : 50; there- 
fore 44x8 equals 352 divided by 50 
equals 7.04, answer, 7.04 is near 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 




A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



359 



enough to call It 7; therefore, 8x7 Is 
the proper size of design paper re- 
quired. 

TIE-UP. 
Then the tie-up must be considered, 
which in the present instance will be 
a 600-hook, with the tie-up as illus- 



rectangles (warp) of the designing 
paper selected. 

That portion of the border shown 
at A, in conformity with the tie-up, 
should occupy the first 15 squares or 
120 rectangles; that shown at B the 
next 15 squares or 120 rectangles; 




trated by Fig. 2 French system — 
point for border, and straight through 
for body, in six divisions. 

The next process is to enlarge the 
design as it appears in the sketch, so 
that one repeat will exactly fit on 600 



that portion shown at C is not re- 
quired on the design paper, because it 
is a repetition of that part shown at 
A, but simply reversed. 

For the body of the design shown 
at D, 45 squares or 360 rectangles will 



360 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



be required, which, will complete the 
600 hooks of the machine. Summing 
them up they will be as follows: 

Portion A=15 sq. X 8=120 rectangles} Border 
Portion B = 15 sq. X 8 = 120 rectangles 5 ■ c """° • 
Portion D = 45 sq. X 8 = 360 rectangles] 

V Body. 

600 rectangles J 

In order to ascertain how many- 
squares or rectangles the design will 
oecupy weft-wise the sketch must be 
measured, which in this case happens 
to be seven inches. Therefore, 44 



manner, or as shown by a portion of 
the design, taken from sketch at E, 
and illustrated by Fig. 3. 

1. Paint in the figure in solid red 
(vermilion or scarlet lake), keeping 
well within the lines. 

2. Paint in the 1 — 4 satin twill In 
the ground, running the twill toward 
the right. 

3. Paint in the 4 — 1 satin twill in 
the figure by using black paint over 
the red. Twill to the left. 



::GaBaaaaaaaaQa3CLLJBOCGOK3CLC.»DCJGLHCGDOBDDDOi-_ 

■nDDa«aaDDBaDDa«DDDDBDUuaBDDDDBDDDD»nCOD«DDDa 

ajeaaaomanaamoDuomo'ccoaDCuDa^ccz-muLsLiQuacacmuu 

nuanBaaau«DCaDBaDCDBDDDDHDDDD«ODDBBDDtCBDDQDH 

n8aauaaaDaa«DCij^L._:. J _.:L:jDDDBDacDD«»Dc«GDQDBDDLi 
LJGKcauDBoaGaBjaLjoHDuLjaHaouQBnoQBBaacofcDCUQBU 

BGaaGCGGGaaGGGGB^GGaEDDanBDDGDDBDBDBDCGUBCDDD 
LjaBGaanBDDDaBDQDDBDCaDBDDDDDDBBBBBaDDBtaXlDBDD 

GGGGBGG.. JG J -GGDGG.-GflGaGGBGCBBBBBBCBCCGCBCDGDB 
CfflGaQJBjaGGBacjJGMLjGGGHODCBBBBBBDBlDCBCJOCOBCIDQ 
GGaaCGJGBGGGaBGG^GBGQCBBaaBBBCBBBBrjQGGBGCCOaG 
cajCGSGJ^GBGa-iaiaGGGDCBBBBBBDBBBBBDDBGCGGlCDDD 
DGBGGUCBGaGJBaDDDDDBBBBBBDBBDBCBBDCDDBDDDDBDD 
GJJGli...G.jGCGG_!GBGaaBBB3BGBBBDBBBBBCaGGGDBCDDCB 
GBGGGGBGGaaBaaaaBBBBBDBBBBDBBBBCCDCDBDDCDBDDD 
DGcaaGJGBaaaBBBBBB3GBBBBQDBBBCBBCBGCCCBDDODBC 
BGGGGBGGGaBBGBflBBGBBaBBGGBBGBBBBLlGOBGGGDBDGDG 
GGBCGGaSBBGflBBZiGBBflflGBCGBBBBBIBGBGGGCBGCDnkCG 
GajGBBBBGBBBBGnBBBGBHaCBBBBBDiBDOGlGOGGBDDGDB 
GGGaaajaBBBQBflBBGBBaGGBHBBGaBflGBDDDGaGGCOIDDG 
GaaiJIBllOIIIIJiailJCaHCaillRLDDBDDDQlODDDIC 
BaGBBaaGBBBBGBBBaGGGBBCHBBBDBCBGCCOBGCOCBDC'GC 
aBBBBGBBBBGBBBBBGaGBBBBBBCBBBCLDBDDGDBDCCDaDG 
BBBGSBBBi 1BBBBBBGGDBBBBBGBBBBGBCDCCBCDDDBCGUGB 
aGBBBBGBBeBBaGGGBBBBBGBBBIBCCrjDBDCGOBCGCDBC'DG 

■ aaBGBBBBBaaaaBBBBBDBBBBBBCCBDCDQBCCCCBCCDDBC 

■ BanBBBaaQJaaBSBBCBBBBCBBCCCCCBGOCDBCGCCjBODDG 
GaBflBGBaGGGflBBBGBflBaGBBBGGCBGGGGBGGGGBGCGDBOG 
BBBGBBBaaaBBBGBBBBGBBBDOBCiDCC!BCGCDBDCGDBCC'DDB 
BGBBBGGGBBBGBBBaGBBBBCGaL OBCDODBQC'GOBC'CGDBDGC 
BBBSadaaBJBBBBaBBBBBBCGBCODCBCDDC'BPDDDBOCC'DBD 
BBaaaBBaBBBBaBHBBGBBCaGCGBGCCCiBDCDrBGCCCBGDGC 
BGGUBBBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGGBCGDr'BGDDDBGDDDBDCCDBCG 
aaaBBBBBGBBBBGBBBBBaDGaaBGDCGBDCC'DBDDCCBCDLC'B 
aaaBBBaBBBBGBBHBaBBaaaaancBCGCClBGQGDBDDCiC'BDGC 
aBBBaBBBBaBBBBaBBBGaaQDBanCCBGCCGBDOCDBGGCCBD 

■ I JBBBBaBBBBaBBBBGDGBDGGCBCGCCBCDCDBGC'DDBCDCu' 
DBBBBGBBBBQBBBBBaBCWCaBacaDBDCCDBDODDBDiriDDBCC 
aBBGBBBBaBBBBBBGaGGBriGCGBaDDDBCDDCBCDDDBDCiCCB 
BDBBBBDBBBBDBBGGBQanCBCaGDBnDCCBCCCDBCCOGBQDD 
BBaBGBBBBaBBBaGGaGBaaGGaGDCGBGGnClBGCDCBGUCDBQ 
BBaBBBBaBBBaaaGBDOrCHGGCCBCGGCBGCCGBuCCGBCOpa 
OBBBaaBBBBaaBaCGGBGCGCaGGGCHCGCrBGCCDBCCGCiBCG 
■BBGBBBBGDDDaaBGGaaBDGaGBGGCGBCGGCBGGCCBDDDCB 
BGBBBBBaanaBOaaOBCCaOBCGGCBacGCBLCCCBCCODBDDG 
■BBBBDGnBGGGaBGacaBaaCGBGUGGBGGCCBGGCGBGDDDBD 

■BBaDBaaaaBanaaBaoGaBGaccBGGccBorGCBDccDBDGDC 
BaaaaaaBaaaGBGQGOHC" GDBaaaaBDDGrBaDcaBGDCDBDD 

oaaoBaaGaBaaaaoaoaGBnaGCBCc^aBCGDCBOGDOBCGCciB 

DincDDBODDaBDunasG"DnaDoacBrcnrBCDGnBPL"CDBDDC 
aaaBaaaaBaaaaBaaGGBaaoGBaDaoBacGCBCCDDBCDGOBG 

■DDDDBDaaDBGDGDBGDaaBGDGCBQCCCBCGCGBDDCCBGGCQ 



Fig. 3. 



picks per inch times 7 inches equals 
308 rectangles; but as 5, the number 
of threads in one repeat of weave 
(satin), will not divide into 308 even- 
ly, 310 must be taken (310 divided by 
5 equals 62). Therefore, the design 
will occupy 600 rectangles (warp) 
times 310 rectangles (weft). 

PAINTING IN THE DESIGN. 

After the design is transferred to 
the design paper, the next process is 
to paint in the weave, in tbe following 



In joining the ground and figure 
twills great care must be exercised 
so as to effect a clear outline between 
figure and ground, which is done by 
the following method: 

Where it is possible to bring a riser 
(black) of the ground beside a sinker 
(white) in the figure weave or vice 
versa, it must be done and in some 
cases, where the risers and sinkers 
will not join, it is well to alter the 
weaves slightly so as to effect it; and 
where it is impossible to do this, then 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



361 



the weaves of each must not be ex- 
tended so as to actually join, but a 
certain length of weft in the ground 
must join a certain length of warp in 
the figure. (See portion of design, Fig. 
3.) 

When painting in the satin twill of 
the ground in the border of the design 
it is necessary that the twill should 
extend to the right for one-half the 
distance and to the left for the re- 
mainder, therefore, as this breaking 
of the twill line causes a slight im- 
perfection, which is unavoidable, care 
must be used so as to make the break 
in such portion of the border as will 
render it unnoticeable. 

Again it is necessary also to be 
careful so as to make the weave of 
the border join perfectly with that of 
the body; and this is done by care- 
fully examining the tie-up so as to as- 
certain which warp threads will join 
each other in the cloth and take steps 
to make a perfect juncture. 

In this particular instance, warp 
thread No. 1, which is the first of the 
border, is in juxtaposition with warp 
thread No. 241, which is the first of 
the body. (See Tie-up, Fig. 2) There- 
fore, the satin twill of the body, com- 
mencing with warp thread No. 241, 
should continue, without a break, the 
satin twill of the border finished at 
warp thread No. 1. 

WEAVES TO USE. 

Although in the majority of damask 
fabrics nothing but satin twill weaves 
are employed (principally 5 and 8 har- 
ness), very good effects are sometimes 
obtained by combining other weaves 
with the satin twills. For instance, 
one side of a leaf may be painted in 
with a satin twill weave, and the other 
side may be a straight twill, thus giv- 
ing the leaf a shaded effect, which 
may be very pleasing. 

Another method of shading and the 
one generally employed is to gradually 
change from warp-up to weft-up or 
vice versa, as illustrated by Fig. 4. 

In damask there is probably a 
greater field for the production of 
large figures than in any other class 
of weaving. There are two methods of 



weaving damask. First, by the use of 
the ordinary jacquard, which is dis- 
cussed in the present article, and sec- 
ond, by the use of what is called the 
compound pressure harness. 

By the first method, although very 
elaborate figures can be woven and a 
fine cloth produced, yet by the second 
method a command is obtained over 
four or five times as many warp 
threads as by the first, thus allowing 
the production of a fabric of much 
finer texture and even more elaborate 
ornamentation. 



QBapooBaaaoaooncBoncioHao 
QaaIpoaa«aDDO«aoQOBDDDQ« 
■auuuBQODQBoaon»aQODBDoa 
aDBCuau«DDacjBuanDBDDaDBD 

DBaaBDaDOBDDDaBDDaDBDDDD 
DBDBDDBCaGDBuaODBDDDDBaa 

~ TiBDQBDDDDBDDDDBDDDDB 
DBDBDDBDGDaBDDDDBDDa 

jaDBGBnOBUOaaBDQODBD 

aBaaBDBDDBQBDaBaDDDBDODa 
DBQBaaBDBDQBDBaDBDDDDBDD 

BaaBDBuoBDBaaBDBDDacaaDa 

BQBaOBDBna«aBUDBDBDDBDDa 
GBBGBGaBGBGGBGBGGBGBGaBD 
aBGBBGBQGBaBGaBaBQaBGBDa 
BB JBGBBGaaGBGBGGBGBGGBCB 
BGBBGBGBBDBGGBGBGCBGBQQB 
BUflOBBGBGBBGBDGBGBGGBgBa 
GBBGBGBBGBGBBnBGGBDBGSaa 
aBOBBGaaBBGaUBBGBOGBGBGQ 
BaGBaBBGBGBaCBUBBGaGGBGB 
BGBBGBGtfBGaGBBGBGBBCBCGB 
BGBuBBGBJBBGBLBBLBGBBOBG 
BBBGBGBBGBGBBGBGBBGBCBSD 
UBBBBGBGBBGBGBB, .BLBBGBGB 
BBGBBflflGBGBBGBGBBGBGBaca 

■ 111 III! BGBBL BGBBGBDBB 
■GBBBBGBBBBGBC BBGBGBBDBG 

■ liailll.JHIICirilCICIilG 
GBBflBGBBBBGBBBBGBCBBGBGB 
BBGBBBB. 1(11 II KB B BB _jH 
■III III! ■■!> ■■■■ I BB 
BOBBBBGBBBBGBBBBCBBBBGBa 

■ ■■ III! IBII ■lllL'IIIIG 



Fig. 4. 

A description of damask weaving 
by the use of the compound pressure 
harness will be given later. 

Where damasks are made all of one 
color, which is generally the case, as 
in white linen table covers, the effect 
is given by the threads lying at right 
angles to each other, and the light 
falling upon them brings the pattern 
in bold relief and makes it easily vis- 
ible. 

FINISHING OF CLOTH. 

As it is impossible in the scope of 
the present article to describe the 
bleaching, dyeing and finishing of all 
the various damask fabrics, we can at. 
least say this — that in the case of the 
linen table covers, towels, etc., all the 
finishing required is bleaching, starch- 
ing and pressing. 



362 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



But as the beauty of the fabric 
largely depends upon its whiteness, it 
is essential that the bleaching of the 
cloth must be very carefully done. 

It is on account of the excellence 
of her bleacheries that Ireland has 
been able to make Irish linen famous 
the world over. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Cotton damask is made in several 
grades and should be considered as 
being made in mills equipped with 
machinery for making medium and 
high-class goods. The grades of cot- 
ton used for this class of cloth are 
middling to good middling, the staple 
varying from 1 1-16 to 1| inches 
strong, according to the grade of dam- 
ask to be made. 

THE MIXING 
should be as large as possible and, if 
good waste is used, i. e., sliver waste 
from the front of the cards, and draw- 
ings, also sliver waste from sliver lap 
machines and combers, and cut roving 
waste from the slubber and fly frames, 
it should not be used in larger propor- 
tions than 1 to 3. In up-to-date mills, 
and in fact most mills nowadays, it is 
the general custom to have a waste 
machine into which the cut waste 
from the slubber and fly frames is 
picked. This is called 

A WASTE MACHINE. 
This machine is constructed so as to 
take out all the twist in the roving 
and generally has for this purpose two 
or three porcupine beaters, and the 
cut roving waste is delivered in a 
fluffy sheet, from which all the twist 
has been taken. The good sliver waste 
from the machines above mentioned 
is mixed with the raw stock, while 
the cut roving waste, after being run 
through the waste machine, is fed to 
a picker and made into a lap of the 
same weight as the lap being used at 
the finisher picker, for this class of 
goods, and then the waste lap 
is run through with the raw stock lap 
at the finisher picker in the proportion 
of three laps of raw stock to one of 
cut waste, the cut waste being gen- 
erally put so that it will come in the 
center of the delivered lap. 



The cotton, after being mixed, is 
put through a hopper opener and 
either two or three processes of pick- 
ers, two processes being best, the 
speed of beater being 1,050 revolutions 
per minute for openers, 1,500 for 
breakers and 1,450 for finishers, also 
1,450 revolutions per minute for in- 
termediate pickers, when used. This 
gives about 42 beats per inch at the 
finisher. The weight of laps should be 
40 pounds at breaker, 37 pounds at 
intermediate and 36 pounds at fin- 
isher. 

THE CARDS 
should be set close, the speed of the 
flats making incomplete revolutions 
every 50 minutes. The draft of the 
card for this class of goods is about 
110 to 125, doffer 24 inches, about 13 
revolutions per minute, 26-inch 
doffer, about 12, the production being 
about 500 pounds per week. In the 
drawing frames the rolls should be set 
Vs of an inch longer than the staple 
between the first and second rolls, 
and increase % of an inch between 
each set of rolls toward the back. The 
speed of the front roll should be about 
400 revolutions per minute. 

The general instruction given in a 
previous lesson on ginghams may be 
followed, except in the case of the 
hook roving. 

IN THE FINER GRADES 
of damask the comber is used and 
then only two processes of drawings 
are used instead of three, as is the 
custom when combers are not used. 

Earlier in the lesson we have stat- 
ed that cut-roving waste was used in 
the mixing. Cut roving results from 
badly made bobbins; bobbins not be- 
ing marked, it being better to cut the 
roving off of these bobbins rather 
than to run the risk of getting them 
mixed up with other hanks of roving; 
bobbins on which there is a large 
amount of single or double, which is 
generally not allowed, but which will 
be made in spite of the most careful 
watching; bad bobbins resulting from 
breakdowns to machinery, and bob- 
bins which are too small to send to 
the spinning or mule rooms. It is best 
to have only one hand to 
cut off these so-called bad bobbins 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



363 



In larger mills one hand is employed 
to do this, but it is the general rule to 
have the third hands on fly frames 
do it. Under no consideration should 
the help (fly frame hands) be allowed 
to cut off the bad work which they 
make. 

The cut roving should be sorted into 
piles of different lengths of staple, 
also into different piles, as to kinds; 
for example, Egyptian should not be 
put with Allan, even if of the same 
grade and length of staple. 

WHEN CUTTING OFF ROVING 

the hand should be careful not to cut 
the bobbin, because this in time will 
make the layers nearest to the bobbin 
stick to the wood, when they are 
again used. The bobbins containing a 
small amount of single and double 
should be pulled off by the hand mak- 
ing them, who may be found by the 
marks on the bobbin, if she allows the 
bobbin to go to the spinning or mule 
room. The hand gathering the roving 
waste should be careful not to mix 
the different staples and kinds, and it 
should be taken to the picker room 
and placed in the different bins pro- 
vided for roving waste, which bins 

SHOULD BE PLAINLY MARKED 
as to staple and kind. The one collect- 
ing the waste should report all cut 
waste found, and also those making an 
excessive amount of waste, to over- 
seer. The overseer should keep an ac- 
count of this roving waste, as well as 
the good waste, so that he may at all 
times know just how much is made. In 
this way he is always in touch with 
the waste made in different depart- 
ments and always knows whether too 
much waste is being made. The boss 
picker is the best man to weigh all 
wastes, because it is to his depart- 
ment that the kick is made on account 
of bad laps. Reports are generally 
sent in once a week with the amount 
of waste for each day. 



Damask Cloth Bleaching. 
First, boil with 4 degrees Tw. caus- 
tic potash for 8 to 10 hours. Run 
through washing machine and place in 
kier for second boil, with 4 degrees 
Tw. caustic potash. Boil 8 to 10 hours. 



The kier is the ordinary bleaching 
kier. After second boil, run through 
washing machine. Pass through solu- 
tion of bleaching powder at V2 degree 
Tw. and plait down in bin for four 
hours. Pass through sulphuric acid y 2 
degree Tw. and wash well with wash- 
ing machine, until all trace of acid is 
eliminated. 

Starching: 8 to 10 ounces corn- 
starch; two ounces white cocoanut oil 
softening; one gallon water. Pass 
through starch mangle and dry on 
cylinder drying machine. 

Damp pieces and give a calender 
finish. 

+»» 

ANOTHER HAMMOCK CLOTH 

Hammock cloth is a fabric compos- 
ed of either jute, cotton, silk, silkaline 
or linen, and is intended for just such 
use as the name implies, that of a 
swinging couch or hammock. The all- 
cotton hammock is the most popular, 
and finds the readiest market. Ham- 
mocks composed of other material 
than all cotton are the exception, not 
the rule. The 

TWO MOST IMPORTANT FACTORS 

to be considered in the construction of 
this fabric are: strength, and a pleas- 
ing color arrangement or combination, 
good yarns being used to provide the 
proper amount of elasticity of fabric, 
therefore strength. 

Hammock cloth, when manufactur- 
ed into that commodity known as 
hammocks, is more of a luxury than 
an actual necessity, being used only 
for outdoor purposes in warm weath- 
er. Hence the importance of attrac- 
tive 

COLORING. 

Dry colors are used in cheap grades 
such as retail at about 75 cents. Fast 
colors are used in expensive grades, 
the price of which is from $1.50 up- 
ward. In all cases bright, rich, lively 
shades of color are necessary. Those 
colors most commonly used are red, 
blue, purple, pearl, black, white, 
green, as well as others in both light 
and dark shades. 



364 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Hammock cloth is most successfully 
woven on the dobby loom, the very 
cheap grades being made with a 

SCRIM WEAVE 
and from 6 to 8 ends and picks per 
inch, | cotton yarn. By using the 
dobby loom very rapid changes are 
possible, by altering the drawing-in 
draft wherever necessary. This is im- 
portant in sampling and is rather ex- 
pensive when applied to the jacquard 
loom. 

In creating hammock styles, very 
elaborate imitation jacquard figures 
are produced by taking a design suit- 



To replenish a warp in the loom, if 
the same harnesses are to be used in 
the same manner as the warp just 
finished, the new warp is placed on 
the floor directly behind the loom to 
be filled, and the ends of both warps 
tied together by using a flat knot, the 
same as is used in tying in carpet 
warps. This fabric requires 

ABSOLUTELY NO FINISH 
and is made up into hammocks imme- 
diately after leaving the loom. 

Hammock cloth is made from 34 to 
44 inches in width, and always of 
three or more ply yarns. 




able for a dobby loom of about 20 har- 
ness, generally twill effects; and by 
dissecting the design and applying the 
parts (straight or reversed) to a series 
of broad and narrow colored stripes in 
the warp or warp pattern, we produce 
an effect both intricate and attractive. 
Care should be taken, however, to in- 
sert several small stripes of plain 
weave, as this prevents the cloth from 
pulling out of shape on account of the 
loose texture permitted by the use of 
twill weave. 

In making a warp for a hammock, 
the colored and plain yarns are spool- 
ed upon six-inch spools. These are set 
up in the creel rack by the warper, in 
accordance with the pattern or color 
arrangement desired. 

THE WARP 

is made upon a section mill, each sec- 
tion being warped and run upon the 
mill the desired length; the number of 
sections in the completed warp is fig- 
ured out by the warper, according to 
number of ends to be used, and the 
capacity of the creel rack. 



Cloth. 



A good grade of hammock cloth can 
be produced by using: 3-10s cotton 
warp and filling; 750 reed, 42 inches 
wide; 18 ends, 16 picks per inch; 
weight 81 ounces; measure about 38 
inches from loom. 

WARP PATTERN: 
19 Light green' 

S White 
46 Navy blue 

4 Black 
23 Light green 

4 White 
15 Light blue 

4 Light green 
29 Dark green 

4 White 
64 Navv blue 

8 White 
64 Navv blue 
12 Black 
64 Light green 
10 Black 

378 ends. 



Read from top to bottom, 
then reverse. 



Do the same In drawing In. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For this class of cloth, either a low- 
grade of short stapled cotton is used, 
or, as is more generally the custom, 
waste. When straight cotton is used, 
quantity is more to be looked out for 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



365 



than quality. By this it is not meant 
that quality is not considered at all, 
but that quantity or production is 

THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT 
of the two for this class of goods. The 
quality should be the next point. Get 



while the production may be greater 
for a 'short length of time, the ends 
breaking down at the front "and the 
time lost in piecing them up con- 
stitute only one of the items that more 
than makes up for the loss in pro- 




all the production that is possible 
from every machine, but always have 
one thing in mind, that it is not al- 
ways the greatest speed of the front 
roll together with the heaviest weight 
per yard of sheet, sliver, roving or 
yarn being delivered that gives the 
most production at the end of the 
week. 

There is always a speed over which 
it is folly to drive a machine because, 



duction of a more slowly driven ma- 
chine, which will run more steadily 
and make evener yarn. 

ANOTHER THING 

that must be taken into consideration 
when reading these articles is that, 
while we describe the different proc- 
esses through which the cotton has to 
go to make the required finished yarn 
for the cloth, also the general settings 



300 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of the machines required, it would be 
almost impossible for one mill to make 
every cloth that will be described, so 
that it must be understood by the 
reader, when reading the details 
of the different grades and kinds of 
cloth, that one mill makes only several 
cloths of the same grade. So, 
IN ORDER TO AVOID CONFUSION 
in the future, let us divide the mills 
into three different parts, first those 
using waste and low-grade cotton; 
second, those using low and middling 
grades of cotton, and third, those using 
middling and high grades of cotton. 
While the differences are not so great 
between the first and second and the 
second and third as between the first 
and third, still the differences are 
there in the number of processes used 
and the size of rolls, also size of wire 
on certain machines. All that is asked 
of the reader is to consider which 
division of the mills the cloth under 
description belongs to and the rest 
will be very clear. Hammock cloth, 
of course, belongs to the first-named 
division. 

For this class of goods the cotton is 
put through opener and picker; the 
speed of beater is one of the points 
to be looked after. 

AT THE CARD 
coarse wire is used on both fillets and 
the speed and setting of the doffer 
comb should be looked after to see 
that it is properly stripping the dof- 
fer. At the drawing frame a smaller 
second roll should be used, so that the 
rolls may be set close enough to- 
gether, as the staple of the cotton 
being used is very short. At the 
slubber and fly frame this is also 
true. The one watchword with this 
class of goods is production. 

Particulars for Dyeing Yarn. 
LIGHT OLIVE. 

One-half per cent benzo dark green 
GG; % per cent chrysophenine; 20 per 
cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter 
at 120 degrees F., and raise to 180 
degrees F., give six turns. 

Benzo dark green GG, and chryso- 
phenine are colors from Elberfeld Far- 
benfabriken. 



VIOLET. 

1*4 per cent benzo fast violet R; 20 
per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; 
enter at 120 degrees F. ; give six 
turns to 180 degrees; color from 
Elberfeld Farbenfabriken. 

YELLOW. 

2y 2 per cent fast cotton yellow C, 
extra; 20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per 
cent soda; enter at 120 degrees F.; 
give six turns to 180 degrees F. ; color 
from C. Bischoff and Company. 

ORANGE. 

2 per cent fast cotton orange 6R, 
Ex.; 20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent 
soda; enter at 120 degrees F.; give 
six turns to 180 degrees F.; color 
from C. Bischoff and Company. 

RED. 

Zy 2 per cent benzo fast red GL; % 
per cent chrysophenine; 20 per cent 
Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 
120 degrees F; give six turns to 180 
degrees F.; color from Elberfeld Far- 
benfabriken. 

BLACK. 

5 per cent direct deep black E, ex- 
tra 30 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent 
soda; enter at 180 degrees F.; get up 
to boil, give eight turns; Farbenfab- 
riken of Elberfeld. 

PURPLE. 

Zy 2 per cent benzo fast violet R.; 30 
per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; 
enter at 150 degrees F.; and give eight 
turns; Elberfeld Farbenfabriken. 

BLUE. 

3% per cent fast direct blue R.; 30 
per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; 
enter at 150 degrees F.; give eight 
turns at boil. C. Bischoff & Company. 

BROWN. 

3 per cent direct brown NX; 30 per 
cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter 
at 150 degrees F.; give eight turns at 
boil; C. Bischoff and Company. A 
great variety of colors are used in 
hammock cloths. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



367 



TERRY CLOTH OR TURKISH 
TOWELING. 

Terry cloth or turkish toweling is 
a fabric composed entirely of cotton 
yarns. In effect it is a single cloth, 
having rows of loops, formed by warp 
yarn, in regular order, on each side of 
the cloth. 

In making this fabric, it is neces- 
sary to use two beams. No. 1, or the 
bottom beam, contains the warp for 
making the body or ground of the 
cloth. No 2, the top or terry beam, 
contains the warp for making the 
loops in the cloth or terry effect. 
Terry cloth is used in the manufac- 
ture of towels and Turkish bath robes, 
and, as to color, there are solid 
bleached towels, towels having side 
and cross border color effects, also 
stripe patterns for the bath robes, fa- 
vorite colors being navy blue, old 
gold, cherry red, light green, etc. The 
warps are of 2-20s to 2-30s cotton and 
the filling l-20s to l-30s cotton. 

Terry cloth is a narrow fabric 
measuring about 25 inches from, loom 
and can be made on the roller or 
cam loom or the dobby or jacquard 
loom, either style of loom, of course, 
having the terry motion attached! ; 
the jacquard machine being only 
necessary in making fancy border 
effects in conjunction with the filling 
box motion. Very good cross border 
patterns are produced on a mutual 
loom, having terry motion and dobby 
attached. 

The terry weave is the three har- 
ness twill weave dissected, and the 
different parts of this weave placed 
together again in such a manner as to 
permit the forming of a series of loops 
on each side of the cloth in regular 
order, by the top or terry warp weav- 
ing slack, using only sufficient weight 
to permit of correct shedding. 

In making terry on a roller or cam 
loom, four harnesses and four cams 
are necessary, two cams being warp 
effect and two cams filling effect. The 
top beam containing terry warp is 
drawn in on first and third harnesses 
and the bottom or ground warp on sec- 



ond and fourth harness, reeded two 
ends per split and placed in the loom, 
the first and third harnesses being 
strapped up to the first roller, the 
second and fourth harnesses being 
strapped up to the second roller. The 
harnesses are then connected with the 
treadles at the bottom of loom by 
means of jack straps, these treadles 
being in turn operated by the cams, 
which are set on a cam shaft. 

The cams for this weave are thosu 

of a 2 1 — 3- 45 degrees twill, and 

are so arranged on the cam shaft as to 
produce the terry effect. The warps 
are drawn in 1, 2, 3, 4, weaving one 
terry, one ground end. 

The cams are arranged as follows: 

2 
One Warp effect cam. 



One 



Filling effect cam. 



One Warp effect cam. 

1 
1 

One Filling effect cam. 

2 

WEAVE. 

First pick, first, fourth harness up; 
2, 3, harness down. Second pick, first, 
second harness up; 3, 4, harness down. 
Third pick, first, second, harness 
down; 3, 4 harness up. 

The terry motion is arranged thus: 

At the bottom of the loom, near the 
side, there is a treadle, suspended In 
much the same manner as the cam 
treadles. To the treadle there is an 
iron (Y 2 inch) rod attached and run- 
ning up the inside of the loom and 
connected with an iron lever, which 
works upon a fulcrum, bolted to the 
loom side, the loom driving shaft rests 
in box or bearing on the side of the 
loom. This box is so shaped that it 
allows the shaft an eccentric motion, 
when the terry treadle is forced down 
by a cam, placed on the lower loom 
shaft for the purpose. 

When the terry cam, revolving on 
the lower loom shaft, strikes the ter- 
ry treadle, the rod connected thereto 
pulls down on the lever connected 
with the box in which is resting the 
driving shaft, the whole action throws 
the loom shaft and loom sley forward 



368 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



out of line, and the top warp working 
slack the reed draws the yarn 
through; then the terry treadle re- 
gaining its original position, the loom 
shaft settles back to its correct posi- 



12 3 4 

DDII 
■■OD 
■GDI 
DDDD 
QDDD 
ODDQ 

oann 
nana 

□□DB 

ddbd Drawin 



Design. 



n Draft. 



amau 

■DDD 
DDGD 

noon 

■858 Reed Plan - 

1st Terry. 2d Ground. 3J Terry. 4th Ground. 

tion and the next pick of the loom 
binds in the slack warp, thus forming 
the loop in the cloth — the terry mo- 
tion in this case working for two picks 
and stopping for one. 

In weaving toweling on a roller 
loom, it being of short lengths of 
terry, the weaver allows the cloth to 
weave terry for any desired length, 
and to weave solid cloth without the 
loop, he throws the terry motion out 
of gear by dropping an iron finger 
down on the treadle. This holds the 
terry treadle out of the way of the 
revolving terry cam. This iron finger 
is usually either raised or lowered by 
means of a cord, fastened to the inner 
side of the breast beam and near the 
end of the loom. 

This finger can be worked automati- 
cally by the use of a dobby motion or 
jacquard machine. 

The terry warp, by weaving slack 
and forming the loops, will weave out 
at the rate of about 100 or more per 
cent faster tban the ground warp. It 
is then replaced by twisting another 
warp to it, this operation taking place 
at the loom and without removing the 
harnesses. 

A good grade of terry cloth can be 
made as follows: 

Reed — 900, two ends per dent, 27 
inches in reed; 2-30s cotton ground 
warp; 2-30s cotton terry warp; l-30s 
cotton filling; 36 picks. Width from 
loom, 25 inches. 

To be drawn and woven as stated 
above for a roller loom. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Yarn to make terry cloth or Turkish 
toweling belongs to the second divi- 
sion of mills, i. e., the mills mak- 
ing cloth from low and middling 
grades of cotton (raw stock). The 
yarn is generally made from cot- 
ton of about 1-inch staple. The mix- 
ings should be as large as possible and 
good waste is generally thrown into 
the mixing bin at such times as it is 
usual to collect it from the different 
machines. It is usual in all mills to 
gather this good waste, which is real- 
ly no more than the tail ends of laps, 
from the pickers, sliver which has not 
been properly coiled in the cans at the 
cards, combers and drawing frames, 
also any waste that contains the prop- 
er length of staple, which has been 
made at the different processes, which 
from improper care or handling or 
some defect in machinery cannot be 
used at the succeeding machine. This 
waste is generally placed in cans and 
collected at regular intervals and car- 
ried to the picker room and thrown 
back into the mixing bins to be used 
over again and is considered as raw 
stock. Of course, it is understood that 
the different kinds of grades of cotton 
are kept separate. This method in- 
cludes all machines up to the slubber 
and the procedure is the same as de- 
scribed in a previous article. 

OPENING AND PICKING. 

The cotton is passed through an 
opener and two processes of picking, 
the weight of lap being about 40 
pounds at the breaker and 39 pounds 
at the finisher, the speed of the beat- 
er being 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
This is a little faster speed than is 
used for higher class of yarns, be- 
cause there is apt to be more dirt and 
foreign matter in the lower grades of 
cotton and the more beats per inch 
you have the more it tends to clean 
your cotton. 

There is a limit, however, to the 
speed at which to run the beater, be- 
cause, if run at too great a speed, it 
will tend to put nips into the cotton 
which are impossible to comb or card 
out unless you take out the whole 
bunch of fibres contained in the nip, 
which is a needless waste of good cot- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



369 



ton when a little care at the beginning 
would have saved the nip. Nips make 
bunches in the yarn and show up 
clearly in the finished cloth, and 
while it is impossible to make yarn 
without nips, ft is always the object 
of all good carders to make as few as 
possible. 

CARD SETTINGS. 

The settings at the cards should be 
as follows: Flats from cylinder 10- 
lOOOths to 12-1000ths inch; doffer to 
cylinder 7-1000ths inch; licker-in 
from cylinder 10-1000ths; feed plate 
to licker-in 12-1000ths to 20-1000ths 
inch, according to what style of nose 
you are using; licker-in knives to 
licker-in about 12-1000ths inch; back 
and front knife plates 12 to 17-1000ths 
inch, from cylinder wire at the lower 
edge, although the setting distance of 
the front knife plate varies because 
this helps to regulate the amount of 
flat-top waste taken from the cotton 
on the cylinder; cylinder screen from 
cylinder wire 20-1000ths to 24-1000ths 
inch at its nearest point to wire, 
which is the center or directly under- 
neath the center shaft of cylinder. 
The outer edges of the screen are 
generally set about % of an inch 
away from the wire. The sliver should 
weigh about 65 grains to the yard at 
the front of the card, the production 
being about 800 pounds per week of 
60 hours. 
THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 

The work is then put through three 
processes of drawing, the revolutions 
per minute of front roll being 400, the 
production per week 1,650 pounds per 
delivery, the sliver weighing about 70 
grains per yarn. The settings for fin- 
isher drawing frame are as follows: 
front roll to second, 1| inches; second 
roll to third roll, \y 2 inches; third roll 
to back roll, If inches. The slubber 
hank should be about .40 hank; first 
intermediate 1.50 hank; second inter- 
mediate five hank. The spinning frame 
makes the required l-20s yarns from 
five hank roving. Some overseers use 
one less process of drawing and add 
one process of fly frames, in which 
case the hank roving at the different 
processes of fly frames would be as 
follows: slubber .40; first intermedi- 



ate 1.10; second intermediate 2.70; 
fine frame, five hank. 

To make the yarn 2-20s, it is 
doubled at the twister, two ends of 
20s yarn being fed and being twisted 
into one thread of yarn at the front, 
but being called 2-20s yarn. 



Bleaching and Finishing. 

If bleached in the ordinary way, run- 
ning through machine rollers in a 
bleaching works, the pieces will be 
drawn and sometimes damaged. Each 
piece is laid separately in a kier until 
the full amount of cloth has been 
placed therein, a solution of caustic 
potash at 5 degrees Tw. is run in, and 
boiled for 10 hours. Wash well and 
boil again with a 4 degrees Tw. of 
caustic potash. Wash well, and give 
a solution of sulphuric acid y 2 degree 
Tw. Wash well, and chemic with y 2 
degree Tw. chloride lime, for about 
four hours. Give an acid bath of y 2 
degree Tw. sulphuric acid. Wash well 
until all trace of acid has been elim- 
inated. 

The goods should be dried on a ten- 
ter frame. A light starching to give 
more weight can be given of 4-6 oz. 
cornstarch per gallon, starch to be 
boiled for one hour. Run through a 
rubber rolled mangle and dry on a 
tenter frame. If a half bleach is re- 
quired, a boil of caustic potash and an 
acid bath are all that are required. 



CRINKLE OR SEERSUCKER 

This weave can be produced on less 
harnesses, but this number allow 
more freedom for heddles. 

Crinkle or seersucker is a wash fab- 
ric composed of cotton, cotton and 
silk or all silk, and can be easily wo- 
ven in any power loom adapted to 
light and medium weight cotton 
goods, such as the old style roller 
loom, or the more modern dobby or 
jacquard. To make this fabric 

TWO BEAMS ARE NECESSARY 

as the crinkle or shrunken stripe is its 
peculiarity, hence the name. The part 
of the warp (which forms the crinkle 
in the cloth) is dressed on a separate 



370 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



beam and has only sufficient weight 
placed upon it to allow it (crinkle 
warp) to form a shed properly during 
weaving. 

The ground or body of the cloth 
may be dressed upon one or more 
beams according to the difference in 



QDaaDnaanDnnoaanncDongDHDEanDB 
caaaaaDaanaaaaornoaanamamaaaan 

aaaaaaaaancanooziz)~z^r>33aaaaaan 
□unDaa«aoQ«jOD«QGQEQaaQaaanuoa 
o»QaaBaaQ«aoaBQaaB-aaoaaaaoaoaa 
■aaaaaDDaDaoHGDDHDaaaziDaaDQDaa 

Dra wing-in Dmlt. 



oan oaiiaaucDiioniioauaoBiaa 
aaaoaaaoaaaaaaonaaaaaaanBanaaa 

Reed Plan. 
DICKI31 

anaaaaaa 

DH~nr:aca 

■DHDaOHD 

DBGBGB03 

aaanmaaa 
amaaamaa 

■GHGBQID 
Plain Weave for Crinkl*- 



take-up, created by using combina- 
tion weaves to form fancy corded or 
ribbed stripes in the body of the cloth. 
In a good many crinkle or seer- 
sucker fabrics plain weave is used 
entirely, with the cloth construction 
exactly the same in all portions of 
material, except wherein the extra 
take-up of the yarn creates the crin- 
kle effect. To-day, it is not a general 
practice to make the crinkle stripe 
identical in construction with the 
ground of the fabric. This is due to 
several causes: First, the use of a 
greater amount of yarn where the 
crinkle is made develops a much 
better crinkle and in addition causes 
somewhat better weaving. Second, it 
makes it possible for a greater amount 
of variety in cloth pattern to be used. 
A good many would consider the 
weave used on these crinkle stripes 
to be plain, and, generally speaking, 
this is a correct designation, but there 
is a difference noted from the ordi- 
nary plain weave in that instead of 
having a single thread in each heddle 
eye there are two threads drawn as 
one. Naturally, a cloth of this char- 
acter can be made just as easy as an 
ordinary plain fabric, so far as the 
weaving operation is concerned. When 
the yarn is drawn in two threads per 
heddle, the crinkle portion of the 
warp 1b reeded four instead of two 



ends per dent, which is noted in the 
body of the fabric. 

If we desired to make a cloth hav- 
ing a plain stripe for 20 threads and a 
crinkle stripe for 10 threads, draw the 
plain or ground threads on four har- 
nesses, straight draft, 1, 2, 3, 4 and 
the crinkle threads on two harnesses 
1, 2 and reed the whole warp two 
ends per dent straight across from 
selvage to selvage. 

The crinkle effect is produced by 
allowing this part of the warp to 
weave in slack, while the ground warp 
has the regular weight or tension 
placed upon it. In this way the slack 
warp very naturally forms a puckered 
or shrunken stripe in the fabric. 

This fabric has been in large de- 
mand at various times, and is used 
extensively for ladies' wear in the line 
of summer outing dresses, petticoats, 
etc., and while the sale of such fabrics 
has been affected by fashion in the 
past and will be affected by fashion 
in the future, nevertheless, there are 
a large number of such styles which 
are sold just as regularly as ginghams 
or sheetings, although in somewhat 
smaller quantities. The reason why 
crinkle fabrics are sold regularly is 
because there are certain purposes for 
which they seem more desirable than 
about any other fabric, and inasmuch 
as the demand for articles composed 
of crinkle cloth is quite steady, it is 
certain that the production and sale 
will also be quite steady. Advertising 
has had quite a little influence in 
teaching consumers the cloth value 
of some of these fabrics, and is hav- 
ing an influence in the regular dis- 
tribution. 

A very good grade of crinkle cloth 
can be produced from the following: 

STRIPE EFFECT (WARP PAT.) 

Reed, 1150 — 30 inches width in 
reed; l-30s cotton warp and filling. 
(Regular yarns), 56 picks filling. 

Of course, each manufacturer usual- 
ly follows his own ideas of economy 
in constructing a fabric, consistent 
with the conditions and suggestions 
submitted to him by the trade through 
his selling agents concerning the na- 
ture and style of a sample fabric to be 
produced. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



371 



Following is the finish fop 
goods constructed as per stripe ef- 
fect: Goods are run through the 
washer, then through the cylinders or 
dryer, and from dryer to tentering 
machine. This operation stretches the 
goods to the original loom width if de- 
sired, also acting as an auxiliary dry- 
er, after which they are run through 
the calender, which machine gives the 
cloth the appearance of having been 
newly ironed. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 
The mills making the style of cloth 
described above belong to the second 
division of mills given in a previous 



waste. As in previous mixings, make 
them as large as possible, and when 
possible put them through a bale 
breaker, and it would be a good idea 
to let the cotton stand as long as pos- 
sible before using it (after mixing, of 
course). This allows it to expand and 
dry out and it is then in a better form 
for use. Different mills use different 
processes for the purpose of dyeing 
the cotton out and making the cotton 
mixing 

AS FLUFFY AS POSSIBLE. 
It is the general custom in up-to-date 
mills to use a blower in connection 
with the bale breaker. The cotton is 
fed into the bale breaker and junks 



Crinkle or Seersucker. 



paper, i. e., those using low and medi- 
um staple and grade of cotton. These 
mills, of course, use the average set- 
tings on all machines with proper re- 
lation to the length of staple, etc. Of 
course, crinkle or seersucker is made 
of different counts of yarn in different 
mills, but these do not vary enough so 
that any change is made, except in the 
spinning room, which will be men- 
tioned later. The seersucker under 
description will be considered to be 
made of l-30s cotton yarn. The raw 
stock used for this yarn should be 
about 1-inch staple. 

IN THE MIXINGS 
use other good waste, such as describe 
ed in the last paper, also cut roving 



are torn apart by the spikes on the 
rolls of the bale breaker and then the 
cotton is delivered on to an endless 
apron, which carries it over a chute 
into which the cotton drops. This 
chute allows the cotton to slide into a 
fan or blower, which revolves at a 
high rate of speed and the draft car- 
ries the cotton through, trunking eith- 
er directly to the bin in which it be- 
longs or drops it on to an endless lat- 
tice, which may be shifted to allow 
the cotton to drop into the bin where 
it belongs. It must be understood that 
cotton or raw stock is 

COMPRESSED VERY TIGHTLY 
into bales, and if some means were 
not taken to help the cotton regain its 



372 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



natural fluffy state the machines would 
have to do a great deal of heavy work 
for which they are not wholly built. 
Thus the bale breaker tends to sep- 
arate the matted masses as they are 
taken from the bale and the air from 
the blower helps to air, dry and re- 
store the cotton to a fluffy state, 
which is so desirable to obtain among 
carders. The cotton is allowed to 
stand as long as possible so that it 
will expand and dry out as much as 
possible before using, as the cotton in 
the bale collects more or less mois- 
ture from being in the cotton store- 
houses in general use. 

The cotton used for 30s yarn is gen- 
erally passed through 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING, 
if a blower is used. A good weight per 
yard of lap is 16 ounces and total 
weight of lap is 40 pounds at the 
breaker and 14y 2 ounces .per yard and 
39 pounds per lap at the finisher. The 
speed of the beater is the same as has 
been given for mills of the second 
division. At the card the draft should 
be about 100 to 110, which will give 
the weight of the sliver about 65 
grains. The doffer should be speed- 
ed so as to give about 800 pounds pro- 
duction. The sliver is then generally 
run through three processes of draw- 
ing frames, a good draft of which is as 
follows: breaker, 5 plus; intermediate 
4 — ; finisher, 6; which will give the 
following weight of sliver per yard; 
at the breaker 74 grains; intermedi- 
ate, 79 grains, and finisher, 75 grains. 
Be careful of the settings of the rolls 
at the drawing. The hank roving at 
the slubber should be .45; at the first 
intermediate fly frame 1.40; at the 
second intermediate, or, as it is some- 
times called, the roving frame, 3.5 
hank and jack or fine frames, 7 to 
7.5 hank. The roving is then carried 
to the spinning room where it is spun 
into 30s yarn. If yarn of a little high- 
er or lower count is desired the draft 
gear is generally changed at this 
frame to give the required count. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
For 100 pounds yarn, \y 2 per 
cent immedial indone B pat.; iy 2 per 



cent immedial sky blue cone; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 10 per cent 
crystalline Glauber's salt; 3 per cent 
soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; 
wash well with water. 

DARK BLUE. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 8 per cent im- 
medial indone blue pat; 10 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 15 per cent crystal- 
line Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda 
ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash 
well with water. 

BLACK. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 20 per cent 
immedial indone blue pat; 10 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 15 per cent crystal- 
line Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda 
ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash 
well with water; second bath, one- 
half above proportions. 

OLIVE GREEN. 

12 per cent pyrogene olive N; 6 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; 
enter at boil, boil one hour; wash wel" 
with water. 

BROWN. 

12 per cent pyrogene brown G; 8 
per cent sodium sulphide; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; 
enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well 
with water. 

FINISHING PROCESS. 
Starch with six ounces cornstarch; 
six ounces cocoanut oil white soften- 
ing; one gallon water; boil starch for 
45 minutes; rinse through starch 
mangle; dry on tenter frame. 



COTTONADE 

Cottonade is a heavy, coarse, single 
cloth, made of single yarn, generally 
l-20s cotton warp and 16-cut wool 
spun, weaving woolen principle, all- 
cotton shoddy filling. It is used as a 
trousering, an important feature of 
which is the low selling price of the 
finished garment. 

It is best adapted to the old-style 
roller or cam loom, and is made and 
woven on four harnesses, generally 
the — j twill, either right or left 
hand, or herring-bone weave effect 
(twill running at angle of 45 degrees). 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



373 



It is a narrow fabric, being set in the 
reed 30 inches, and receiving very lit- 
tle finish, and is sold at 27 inches in 
width. 

THE PATTERNS 

are usually on the dark side with a 
small percentage of bright color add- 
ed to improve the tone: Black, dark 
slate and dark drab for ground colors, 
and an occasional red, pearl, light 
brown or an equivalent color to 
brighten the whole pattern. 

In making a cottonade the object is 
to produce a cheap single-cloth trou- 
sering composed of a rather coarse 
but fairly strong single warp thread 
and a thick or lofty single filling 



TOMOOMOQBa 
3BB5uBBCB03a 

■GOBBaor 



OOMDOBI 



_ JQBBOL 

lODBBODeDBGO 
Design 



□DDBDDDBaDBCI 

□oaaaoBaooor 



Drawing. in Draft 



aoBBOOBBnm 



BQDBBODl 
DOBBDQBB 

DBBDQBBD 
BBOaBBGd 

BDCBBDatJ 

Design 



CnBBtiPBB 

BBaoaioa 



45° twill 45° 

2 2 

Herring-bone effect. Right-hand twill. 

thread, which combination in certain 
proportions gives the fabric a weighty 
appearand 

THE FILLING 

is usually an all-cotton shoddy filling, 
made from old dark colored cotton 
rags. By willowing and picking, the 
yarn is brought to the carded state. 
The fibres in an all-cotton shoddy are 
short, due to the process of reduction, 
as stated above. 

From the pickers the shoddy is run 
through the first and second break- 
ers and then through the condenser 
or finisher card. The spool drum con- 
taining the roving is then taken from 
the condenser card and placed upon 
the mule to be spun upon tubes, 
ready for the weaver. 

The fibres being short, the shoddy 
will lose from 15 to 20 per cent of its 



weight during the carding and spin- 
ning, also from the 3 to 5 per cent of 
waste made by the weaver. 

To find stock at picker: 

Cottonade, 30 inches in reed; 32 
picks; 16-cut cotton (woolen princi- 
ple) shoddy; 32 times 30 equals 960 
yards divided by 300 equals 3.2 ounces 
filling, plus 5 per cent loss equals 3.- 
18 ounces; 16-cut times 300 equals 
4,800 divided by 16 ounces equals 300 
yards per ounce; 3.18 ounces at loom 
plus 20 per cent loss in carding, spin- 
ning equals 3.82 ounces at picker per 
yard of cloth. 

Cottonade, reed 800-2 ends per split, 
30 inches wide, 32 picks, 16-cut cotton 
(woolen principle) shoddy, l-20s cot- 
ton warp. 

Finish about 27 inches. To finish 
run through dry hot press. 

Weigh 4% ounces about. 

Warp pattern: 

10 Black. 

_ Dark slate. 

1 Red. 

1 Black. 

2 Dark drab. 
1 Black. 

1 Red. 

2 Dark slate. 



-j 45 degree right 



Design — regular 
hand twill. 

THE WEAVING. 

To weave in roller loom, this warp 
is drawn in 1, 2, 3, 4, on four harness- 
es, these harnesses being suspend- 
ed in the loom from the rollers by 
means of straps attached to hooks on 
the top of the harness or heddle 
shafts. The harnesses are then fas- 
tened to the loon treadles by means 
of jackstraps running from the bot- 
tom of the harness to said treadles, 
the treadles being operated by a se- 
ries of cams, consistent with weave 
effect desired. 

These cans are so arranged on the 
cam shaft that in revolving they 
strike the treadles, and this action, 
pulling the harness up and down, 
or ens the shed. (Note — in a roller 
locm two or more harnesses are al- 
ways attached to one top roller, and 
of necessity whatever pulls one down 
must pull the mate harness up, the 
cams always being arranged to permit 
this.) 



374 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



In applying this weave the first and 
third harnesses are strapped to the 
first top roller and the second and 
fourth strapped to second top roller. 
This being the case, the action of the 
cams in opening the shed causes the 
raisers and sinkers on each succes- 
sive warp thread in the repeat of the 
weave to start one pick later than that 
of the thread preceding it, thereby 
forming a twill line. 

A warp to be woven ? twill, 

drawn on four harnesses 1, 2, 3, 4, and 
strapped up in this manner, and hav- 
ing the cams set properly should shed 
thus: First pick, first and fourth up; 
second and third down. Second pick, 
first and second up; third and fourth 
down. Third pick, second and third 
up; first and fourth down. Fourth 
pick, third and fourth up; first and 
second down. 

The herring-bone weave effect is 
produced by drawing in the warp from 
front to back and back to front in the 
harness and using the same set of 
cams, set in the same manner and po- 
sition, and the same harness strapping 
as in making a straight right hand 
twill. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For this class of goods the cotton 
yarn is generally made and spun in 
the same way as wool and worsted 
yarns, and is generally made in mills 
and on the machinery generally used 
for making worsted or woolen yarns. 
It will be understood that the meth- 
ods of making yarn in a cotton mill 
and a woolen mill are entirely differ- 
ent, both as to the number of proc- 
esses and the kind of machinery 
used. In fact, the fundamental prin- 
ciples for spinning yarn are entirely 
different in each mill, and as we are 
describing cotton fabrics In these ar- 
ticles we will proceed just as if the 
yarn used for this class of goods was 
made in a cotton mill and sold to a 
woolen mill, which is sometimes done. 

THE RAW STOCK. 
The raw stock used for this class of 
fabric would be of a low grade and 
generally mixed with comber or even 
card waste; the percentage of waste 



used would depend a great deal on the 
count of yarn to be made. In the fab- 
ric under description the count of the 
cotton yarn is l-20s. The raw cotton 
would be opened up and run through 
a bale breaker, or it may be opened 
at the bin and not run through the 
bale breaker, which will save the ex- 
pense of one process, but the cotton 
will not be opened up as well, a 
more even yarn being made when 
bale breaker is used. As the cotton is 
opened at the bin it is mixed with the 
carded or combed waste in the pro- 
portion required, the cotton layers 
being taken from the bale and pulled 
apart as much as possible so as to let 
the air get at them and also so as to 
lighten the work of the opener. The 
cotton is taken and put into the open- 
er which is generally attached to the 
breaker picker, either directly or in- 
directly by having the cotton carried 
through trunking (through which it is 
blown by a draft of air from a fan 
on the opener) which connects with 
the back part of the breaker picker. 
The opener machine may be on the 
same floor or may be situated on the 
floor above or below the breaker pick- 
er; but in mills, as they are now con- 
structed, the opener is on tbe same 
floor and is considered as a part of 
the breaker picker. 

PARTICULARS TO BE OBTAINED. 
For this count of yarn the speed 
of the beater should be about 1,050 
revolutions per minute. The hopper 
on the opener should always be kept 
more than half full of cotton and it 
should be as large as possible, the 
reason for this being that a more even 
amount of cotton will always be pre- 
sented to the pin beater by the lift- 
ing apron than when the hopper is 
less than half full. This is important, 
not only in reference to "cottonade 
fabrics," but also all classes of goods, 
because if it is less than half full 
it is apt to cause uneven yarn. The 
speed of the beater on the breaker 
and finisher pickers should be about 
1,500 revolutions per minute, which 
gives the beats per inch about 42. 
The weight of the lap at the breaker 
picker should not be less than 40 
pounds and at the finisher less than 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



376 



§9 pounds. A 39-pound lap gives a 
weight of lap per yard of 14 *£ ounces. 
The card is set so as not to take out 
too much waste, and wider settings are 
used than those given in a previous 
article. The draft used should be 100, 
the sliver at the front weighing 65 
grains. Production at the card should 
be at least 900 pounds. The sliver is 
then run through two processes of 
drawing, the weight of sliver at the 
finisher being about 72 grains per 
yard. The production per delivery of 
the finisher drawing frame should be 
at least 1,600 pounds per week of 
60 hours and the percentage of lost 
time at this machine not more than 
15 per cent. The slubber is the next 
process and the hank roving made at 
this machine should be about .40. 
Three-process fly frames are used and 
the hank roving at the different proc- 
esses should be as follows: 1st inter- 
mediate 1.10 hank; 2d intermediate 
2.75 hank; five -frame from 4.50 to 5.00 
hank. Care should be taken that the 
rolls are not spread too far apart on 
these machines and a good setting 
for rolls of this stock for slubbers 
and fly frames is as follows: Front 
roll to middle spread to 1% inches; 
middle roll to back roll 2 inches. The 
yarn is then taken to the spinning 
room where it is spun into 20s yarn, a 
soft twist being used. 

Dyeing Particulars for Raw Stock. 
BLACK. 

For 100 pounds: 18 per cent pyro- 
gene black B. D.; 12 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 8 per cent soda ash; 70 per 
cent salt. Enter at boil, boil one hour, 
and wash well in water. 
PEARL. 

One per cent pyrogene gray B; 2 
per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 5 per cent salt. Enter at 
boil, boil one hour. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Five per cent pyrogene brown G.; 
5 per cent sodium sulphide ; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 5 per cent salt. Enter at 
boil, boil one hour, wash well. 
RED. 

Five per cent rosanthrene red A.; 
25 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent 



soda. Enter at boil, boil one hour, 
rinse, diazotize for one-quarter hour 
with nitrite soda and muriatic acid, 
rinse. 

Develop with beta naphthol and 
caustic soda for one-quarter hour. 
This red is brighter and faster than 
primuline red. 

DIAZOTIZING BATH. 

One and one-half per cent nitric 
soda, 5 per cent muriatic acid, 20 de- 
grees Be. 

DEVELOPING BATH. 

One and three-quarters per cent 
beta naphthol; 3 per cent soda ash. 
DARK SLATE. 

Two and one-half per cent imme- 
dial direct blue, B pat.; 1 per cent 
immedial olive, B pat.; 5 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 
per cent Glauber's salt. Enter at boil, 
boil one hour. 

DARK DRAB. 

One and one-half per cent immedial 
brown, pat.; % per cent immedial 
olive, B pat; *4 per cent immedial 
black, N. B. pat. ; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt; 2 per cent soda ash; 5 per cent 
sulphide soda. Enter at boil, boil one 
hour. 

COTTON WORSTED— MEN'S 
WEAR 

Cotton worsted men's wear is a fab- 
ric composed of either 2-20s or 2-30s 
cotton warp and filling, and receives 
either a dry or wet finish. The weave, 
color arrangement and general con- 
struction are an exact duplicate of the 
finest worsted goods of the present 
time. 

This fabric is used in the manufac- 
ture of men's suitings and trouserings, 
retailing at $7 to $12 per suit, for the 
middle class trade, and in effect has 
the neat, dressy appearance of an im- 
ported cloth of high grade. 

It is made in a light-weight grade 
at 6 to %Y Z ounces for spring' and fall, 
and heavy weight at 8 to 8% ounces 
for winter wear, both grades being 
produced in stripe, check and indis- 
tinct plaid patterns. 



376 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Cotton worsted men's wear is usu- 
ally woven on any loom, having either 



nnutucnaD • 
tPGoaaaaa S 
oaaon>zioa °> 

□D5DDDDO -g 

Qaaa&aaa m 
aaaaaaaa g 

Gdbbgjgb e 

HDOBiDQ 2 

qbbodbbd ■" 

OOHQQH a 

IGOBBGDB > 

maammma « 

dbb-jgbId £ 

dqbbqdSS P 



■BQOBBoa 

DDDGaaaa 

■GGBBGGB 
GGGGGQGB 
OaBBQQBB 

.Daauaiiina 
■Baaaaaa 
DfflaaaoDQ 

OBBGGBBG 
DDDDDD*a 

OGBBGUBB 

usuaauaa 

■BOGBBGG 

osanauaa 

BBGGBBGG 
GGGGOGEBG 
GDBBGCbB 

GBBGGBB 

asaaaDaa 
BaaBBBaa 

■BGQBBGD 

Gaa3canD 
qobbggsb 
ouggodbg 

DBBGGBBg 
PDDfflDGDD 

■GGBBGGB 

mDaaaaag • 

5BDGBBag a 

DaBBggBB u 

□GBBGGBB I 

□DQDfflQaa J, 

gBGGB"aa ja 
DDG3DGG j*> 

■KDGBBDG w 

□□aspQaa u 

aaaoaafna -e 
GBBGQBaa ■9, 

BBODBBGO 1-9 

oaaaaGffla i 

DQBBagBB £ 

■agBBgai -5 

■bOdbbog p 
nDGaafflaa 

aBiGGBBG 

oafflaDDDG 

OGBBGGBB 

ciaanaaDH 

■GDBBDDB 

Dgaafflaoa 

■BGDBBDg 

DfflDDOaag 




□aaanoHaoaoannaa 

DQQGGCJGGGGGuDBaa 

DDGouBGaaaounaaa 
DGDQGunauacjCBaaQ 
□aaDB^G'_G-..C'-GDog 
DGGGnUGGGaDBQaaa 

GGDaGaGGGGGGGGGa 

□aoDC aaa 

QaaGDg*GGacoaoGa 
GGaGG^aaGanDaDBQ 

GGL":GZiGBGGG3UDDa 
DD jGGuaaaaQGDDDB 

DBQaasaQGaGQaaaa 
ggogg_,ggdbd Gaaaa 
DBaQDnacaaQCjaoan 

GGGaO'-GGGBGGGGDD 
DDGGi- - -QaP 

UGaaoaaDGaa«aaaa 
DDonagaBGauaaaDD 
aaaaaaauQaGBaaag 
DBanCpGGGGyuaaaQ 
□aaGagaaaBUGDDoS 
aBQaagjGDnGG^aag 

BaaGncgagBapaaaa 
aaaggDDDDQ5aQDS 
aGGGGDDanaa«DnDa 
DaaaaaaBGaDanDng 
cni nGaaaaaBCinDaa 
■aaaggggaaogaaDa 

GGGGGGGGBaDGQaaa 

gggg — -GG:;.uL,naaJ 
DannaGQBaaac D aaS 
GDaaaaaaGDaCaaaS . 
DaaaaGaBGDaDaaaS £ 
DanagGGGGGQG c na<i a 

aaaaGaaqarG-GBag P 
nDDDQBagaGQQanaC a 
DDnDoagggGaucBag ~ 

DnGaaoaoanagnuD" a 
gnDDnnDBDDa D DGag ■5 
gaanoDoggocgngBR | 
BaaoaaBagaDgaoog s 
BaaDaaGnaaGQa"QLJ S 

n-iGGG;;- .EJ-GupGGG^ m 



ofiaagaogonnuagQg 

DanGaaaocilaDQQaa 
nDBoaacGgaQGDOaa 
DaGaaaagaDBgaQDCi 

DDaBagaggooaGQaa 

acCGBGogDnDgogBg 
DaGDaaGacQaQBGDa 
DDngGBagDopDaaaQ 

naaBGaaggaDgaBag 

DGGOGCBUaaQGDOoS 

BnaaaGGGaDaaDDBD 
GDaGaDBCQaOGGGO 

DanaDODDDnayaoai 

■GaDaaaggeagagna 
BoDaaoaSBengagDg 

□aDDGaaDa B aGaaon 
oar — 



_„jaooaaoD2aaQC, 
BoDDDaagaDDBDacQ 

§oao«QQ5oaDSoang 
DgaDDQaDapgBgga 
□Bgognnoaagnaag 

DgoQDDBnDDaDoaaa 

DgDODDDGDODDaDBa 

Dnap'GGGBDauQrnaa 
DcaaQOMj3aixiaa« 



4x1 or 4x4 filling boxes, and having a 
head motion attached of from 16 to 25 



harness capacity. Most all weave ef- 
fects and combinations of weaves 
known in the worsted men's wear 
trade can be applied to this fabric. 
Care should be taken, however, in con- 
struction of weave, as the weave, when 
used in a worsted to produce a tightly 
bound rib effect, may appear more 
open in cotton worsted men's wear, as 
the worsted fabric shrinks when 
scoured in finish and the cotton fabric 
is finished dry and is practically the 
same as when taken from loom, of 
course, allowing for percentage of 
contraction between reed and cloth 
roll. Cotton worsted men's wear is 
usually made one face end and one 
back end, and reeded four ends per 
dent. 

THE FACE WEAVE, 

when a twill or fancy combination, is 
balanced on the back of the cloth by 
using an eight harness satin (warp 
effect on back) five as counter. The 
face weave should always be properly 
balanced. In making this style of 
goods, or a warp back fabric, the ex- 
tra is placed there for the purpose of 
adding weight to the cloth, and if of 
a tighter nature, the face of the cloth 
will present a puckered or uneven ap- 
pearance. 

To dry finish cotton worsted men's 
wear, the yarns of which have been 
dyed from dry or cheap colors, that 
will not stand washing, the goods are 
taken from the loom and inspected, 
measured and sheared. Shearing is a 
process which means running the cloth 
through a machine, having a cutter 
composed of a series of blades set in 
a frame, which revolves in similar 
manner to that of a grass mower, the 
cloth being kept taut by being passed 
over and under several rods and roll- 
ers, which also remove wrinkles, and 
allow the cloth to be presented evenly 
to the cutter. The purpose of shearing 
is to remove all foreign substances 
from the face of the cloth, such as 
knots, lumps, etc., and the effect is a 
smooth, even cloth that readily takes 
on the appearance of a high-class wor- 
sted, after being run through the hot 
press. 

The steam gauge on a hot press 
should register 50 pounds and the dial 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



377 



135 pounds roller pressure when the 
cloth is run through this press. The 
effect of the pressure of the steam- 
heated rollers upon the cloth is to re- 
move all wrinkles, liven up the colors, 
and to retain the width of cloth as 
taken from the cloth roll at the loom. 
After being pressed, the cuts of cloth 
are rolled or lapped into bolts, the 
ends of which are then stitched, the 
tags sewed on and the goods are ready 
to case and ship. 

THE COLORS 

used in cotton worsted men's wear 
are black, brown, light and dark 
shades of blue, slate, drab and steel, 
and to liven up a pattern use an oc- 



1 end face 2-30 cotton warp; 1 end 
back 2-20 cotton warp, — 5 twill face, 
8 harness satin back, 5 as counter. 

1 pick l-30s worsted; 1 pick 1-20' 
cotton; 56 picks per inch. 

LIGHT-WEIGHT MEN'S WEAR. 

Reed, 900— four ends per dent, 6*4 
ounces; 3iy 2 inches in reed, including 
selvage 32x2; 2-30s cotton warp, one 
face and one back; 52 picks 2-30s 
black cotton filling. Dry finish equals 
shear and hot press. Weave twill com- 
binations for face; weave eight-har- 
ness satin for back. 

HEAVY-WEIGHT MEN'S WEAR. 

Reed, 800— four ends per dent, 8Vz 
ounces; 31 y 2 inches in reed, including 



oonaBCwoqgnMfflja 

aamsmaonaauggomo 
■nBnnnoo»tf«Dnaaa 

■DDDQDBDBaQDDDJfl 

HnoaisBDQOOLMDBa 

DQBOBQOOaOBffiBOgg 

■ DDDQOBOBCJaOQDMa 
Design— Piece Dye 

noMDDMnaaCiDggg 

OBBrJDBBDOfflDDDOgD 
ODBBDDBBOCOTOaQgg 

QBSDDMQaaDggfflgg 
■■ooMLjcraaaunggg 
■oaiSaDBaDoaaaao 

Weave Harness Chain 

BDDoaanagggggsgg 
DaDDDDDDD«gggggg 

DDDDDDg«ggODDDDD 

QSR2RRRRRRRRRRRR 



SBSBaBSgSHSBBBSBSsSBabS^mBSBSBDa-DBDDDDD.s'-cuD 

Design— Light Weight— Stripe. 



DDQDULUyuuu»uuuuuuujj^---g^g^ D oQDDDDOaD«DDCC^ 



RRRRS8RR2RSRRRRRRRRRB 



□ DDDDU1UUUUUUUUUUUL.U 



SBBBSBBBBBBBBBBBo^b'bHcnbQ 

odBBdbdddddddddddddgdbc^p 

DDDDDOnBaDDDDDDDaDDgggCBQ 



QDDaDoagBDggggaa 
SRHR2RRRRRRRR888 



Drawing-in Draft. 

SSSSSSgSgSgS55g;5ggS253S3SSSSS5SgaSSgS5SSSSSa5S55 

Reed Plan. 



on 1 



.-looBBDOcaoagg 

IDDBBGDbtQDDCgg 



jbGDODDDDmoaaDa 

Dra wing-in Draft 

SS2SSS8SSS5SSS35 

Reed Plan 

casional end of maroon, green, pearl 
or sky blue. . 

This line is also made in a piece-dye 
fabric, constructed from 2-20 and 2-30 
cotton warps, and l-30s worsted and 
1-20 cotton filling. These yarns are 
woven in the gray and the cloth 
scoured and dyed in the piece, black 
or blue. When finished, this fabric re- 
sembles a very heavy serge. Finish, 28 

inches. 

Piece dye— worsted men's wear, 
reed, 500— eight ends per dent; 33 
inches in reed, including selvage, 
32x2. 



■ ■ |_J l_J tC LJ l_l LJ LJ I— I l-J 

-JOOBBDIiDCCOBgDg 
iDDBBDDBOOOgggDffl 

oQBBOQBBQOfflogggg 

□BBDQBBDOaOaOfflpg 
BBDDBBODBDDDDDDg 
BDDBBDDBDDDffiDDDa 

Weave Harness Chain. 

selvage 32x2; 2-20 cotton warp one 
face, one back; 52 picks, 2-26s black 
cotton filling. Dry finish equals shear 
and hot press. Weave, can use same 
as light weights. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Cotton worsted fabrics, like cotton- 
ade fabrics, are generally made and 
spun in the same manner as wool and 
worsted yarns and made in woolen 
mills. There are a few exceptions, 
however, where they are made in cot- 
ton mills. The count of the yarn used 



378 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



in cotton worsted fabrics varies from 
20s to 36s, and is generally a doubled 
yarn. In the present article we will 
proceed as if the count of the finished 
yarn was to be 2-30s. 

A mill making this class of goods 
would belong to the second division of 
mills (as classified in a previous arti- 
cle) i. e., a mill equipped with machin- 
ery for making yarns from low to me- 
dium grades of co tton . 

THE MIXINGS 

would be made in the usual manner, 
being run through a bale breaker into 
the mixing bin and at this point mixed 
with the sliver waste returned from 
the cards, drawing frames and comb- 
ers (if there are any of these machines 
in the mill) and then it is run through 
an opener and through three processes 
of pickers. At the finisher picker laps 
of cut roving waste are mixed with 
raw stock in the proportion of three 
laps of raw stock to one lap of cut- 
roving waste. In using cut-roving 
waste and also sliver waste it should 
always be of the same length of staple. 
It is 

THE GENERAL PLAN 
to use cut-roving waste as fast as it is 
made and not allow it to collect until 
a large quantity is on hand. 

The method employed in most mills 
is to collect the cut roving over a day 
(generally right after the noon hour) 
and take it to the picker room and run 
it through the roving or waste picker. 
From here it is run into a breaker 
picker and formed into laps of suitable 
weight. These are then mixed with 
the raw stock in the proportion above 
stated, as long as the cut-roving laps 
hold out (which should be as short a 
time as possible for obvious reasons). 
By doing this 

A MORE EVEN YARN 
is obtained than when the cut roving 
is allowed to collect for a week at a 
time before being put through the 
waste picker, because by the first plan 
you are mixing a small quantity of cut 
roving a good part of the time, where- 
as by the latter plan cut roving Is only 
mixed with the raw stock once a week, 
while during the other five days noth- 
ing but the raw stock and sliver waste 



is being mixed. By the latter plan a 
more uneven yarn is bound to be 
made. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATERS 

on the different machines should not 
exceed 1,050 revolutions per minute at 
the opener, 1,500 revolutions per min- 
ute at the breaker picker, and on the 
intermediate and finisher pickers the 
speed should be slowed down so as not 
to exceed 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
This will give 42 beats to every inch 
of cotton fed to the finisher picker, 
which ought to be enough to thorough- 
ly clean it. In giving the above speeds 
it is assumed that the rigid two-bladed 
type of beater is used. Different kinds 
of beaters, together with their advan- 
tages and disadvantages, will be given 
later when higher count yarns are de- 
scribed. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the breaker picker should be about 
40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard; at 
the intermediate about 37 pounds or 12 
ounces per yard; at the finisher 39 
pounds or 14 ^ ounces per yard. The 
settings at the card should be the same 
as described in previous article, per 
weight of sliver being 60 grains per 
yard and the production 850 pounds 
per week of 60 hours. The work is run 
through three processes of drawing, 
revolutions per minute of front roll at 
each process being 400 and the weight 
of the sliver at the finisher drawing 70 
grains per yard. In order to help pro- 
duce a perfect yarn, it is always a 
good rule never to draw more than you 
double at the drawing frame. For ex- 
ample, if you are feeding six ends at 
the drawing your draft should be six 
or under. The 

PRODUCTION OF THE SLIVER 
at the drawing frame should be about 
1,600 pounds per delivery for a week of 
60 hours. The next machine is the 
slubber, the hank roving at the front 
being about .40. 

The yarn is run through three proc- 
esses of fly frames and the hank rov- 
ing made at each should be as fol- 
lows: First intermediate, 1.20; second 
intermediate, 3.00; fine frame, 7.25 to 
7.50. The yarn is then taken to the 
spinning room and made into 30s 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



379 



yarn; from here it is taken to the 
twister and made into 2-30s by 
doubling two yarns of single 30s yarns 
together. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

BLACK FOR YARN. 

15 per cent immedial black N. N.; 

12 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per 

cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's 

salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash 

well. 

DARK BROWN. 

8 per cent immedial dark brown A.; 
1 per cent immedial yellow D.; Vz per 
cent immedial black N. B.; 10 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at 
boil, boil one hour; wash well. 
DARK BLUE. 

3 per cent immedial indone B. cone. ; 
3 per cent immedial indone R. cone; 3 
per cent immedial direct blue B.; 8 
per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 
enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. 
PEARL. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 2 ounces im- 
medial black N. R. T.; 8 ounces sodium 
sulphide; one pound soda ash; 5 per 
cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil 
one hour. 

DRAB. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 2 ounces im- 
medial black N. B.; 12 ounces imme- 
dial cutch G.; one pound sodium sul- 
phide; 5 pounds Glauber's salt; enter 
at boil, boil one hour. 
SLATE. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 2 pounds im- 
medial direct blue B.; three-quarters 
of a pound immedial olive B.; 5 pounds 
sodium sulphide; 10 pounds Glauber's 
salt; 2 pounds soda ash; enter at boil, 
boil one hour. 

STEEL. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 12 ounces im- 
medial black N. B.; 2 ounces imme- 
dial yellow D.; 2 pounds sodium sul- 
phide-; 2 pounds soda ash; 5 pounds 
Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one 
hour. 



GREEN. 

5 per cent pyrogene yellow M.; 5 
per cent pyrogene green B.; 10 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 5 per cent soda ash; 
enter at boil, boil one hour; wash 

well. 

MAROON. 

25 per cent Glauber's salt; 6 per cent 
Rosanthren C. B.; 5 per cent soda ash; 
enter at boil, boil one hour; wash. 

Diazotize: IY2 pounds nitrate soda; 
four pounds hydrochloric acid; turn 
for 15 minutes; develop two pounds 
beta naphthol; 2 pounds soda ash; turn 
for 15 minutes; wash well. 



SKY BLUE. 

2 pounds immedial sky blue; two 
pounds sodium sulphide; 5 pounds 
soda ash; 15 pounds Glauber's salt; 
enter at boil, boil one hour. 



FIGURED SILK (LENO) 
WAISTING 

Figured waisting is a light-weight 
wash fabric, generally composed of 
1-40 cotton warp and either single or 
two-ply silk or spun silk filling, 1-60 
silk and 2-60 mercerized or spun silk 
filling being in great favor for the past 
few years. 

This fabric can be woven on either 
the dobby or jacquard loom having 
single or double box motion. Very 
elaborate and popular styles are cre- 
ated by using 

FANCY GRANITE WEAVES 

(filling effect) for ground, and 
for figuring use the filling effect of 
diamond, spot, crossed or curved twill 
weaves. These are so regularly ar- 
ranged as to produce apparent jac- 
quard patterns. Persian stripes can be 
produced by using bright colored ex- 
tra warp threads and arranging the 
weave so as to raise them on the face 
of the cloth in Oriental or floral de- 
signs. Spots are sometimes woven into 
this fabric by using extra warp and 
clipping the long floats of yarn off the 
back of the cloth. 



380 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Very elegant styles are made by In- 
troducing leno weaving by means of 
white and colored fancy yarns to pro- 
duce open or lace work in tbe cloth. 

Figured waisting is made in both 
chambray and stripe pattern, always 
having white filling. For chambrays 
the following 

COLORS 

are serviceable: dark blue, light blue, 
brown, pink, red, pearl, steel, light 
green, tan, ecru, etc. 

The combination of cotton warp and 
silk or spun silk filling creates a silky 
sheen on the face of the fabric as the; 
light strikes it, and this in itself is 
its most important selling feature. 

IN WEAVING 

this fabric the take-up roller should be 
covered with fine sandpaper and this 
paper presents a more even surface to 
the cloth and does not draw the filling, 
as is often the case where perforated 
tin is used as a covering on the take- 
up roller. The perforations usually 
cause small rough particles of tin to 
stick out prominently, and these catch 
on the long floats of the filling figure, 
and as the loom continues to run, the 
yarn clings to the roller and draws the 
filling, thereby spoiling the symmetry 
of the figure and causing imperfect 
cloth. 

The tin covering very often causes 
clouded or thick and thin places in the 
cloth. Especially is this so when us- 
ing a fine silk filling, and a great num- 
ber of picks per inch. 

To finish figured waisting the fabric 
is washed in a solution of soap and 
cold water, then dried by being run 
through the hot press. After the press 
of calender, the goods are folded on a 
folding machine (not lapped) in the 
same manner as sheeting, and after 
folding, each separate piece or cut is 
doubled in half and then wrapped in 
stiff paper, to keep out all dirt, after 
which it is ready to pack and ship. 

(SILK) FIGURED WAISTING. 

Reed, 1,300, 2 ends per dent; 38 
inches in reed, to finish at 36 inches. 
1,300 means 1,300 splits to 36 inches of 
reed. Warp l-40s cotton; filling l-60s 
silk filling, 64 picks. Take-up of warp 



during weaving, 15 per cent; 1,300 reed 
by 38 inches equals 1,372 splits; 2 ends 
to 1 split equals 2,744 ends plus 40 
ends for selvage equals 2,784 total ends 
in warp. 

WARP PATTERN. 
16 White. 1 

2 Light blue. I , tlmps 

6 White. f 6 tlmes - 

2 Light blue. J 
16 White. 

8 Cadet blue. 

2 Sky blue. 

2 Cadet blue. 

2 Sky blue. 
12 Dark blue. 

2 Sky blue. 

2 Cadet blue. 

2 Sky blue. 

8 Cadet blue. 

134 ends in pattern = 67 splits. 

19 repeats of weave and pattern plus 
40 splits or 80 ends. 

FIGURED (LENO) WAISTING. 

Reed, 1,400— ends per dent, 2; 34% 
inches in reed, including selvage; fin- 
ish, 28%. Scour and calender. 

WARP PATTERN. 
88 Red 1-40 cot. 

1 Black leno 2-20 mere. 
4 White 2-40 cot. 

2 White leno. 
4 White. 

2 White leno. 

4 White. 

2 White leno. 

4 White. 

1 Black leno. 

112 ends = 68 splits. 

Weight one yard, 2,286 ounces. 

1,752 ends + 15% take-up = 2,061 

yds. 1-40 cot = .981 oz. 

40 ends + 15% take-up = 47 yds. 

1-40 cot = .002 oz. 

304 ends + 15% take-up = 358 

yds. 2-40 cot = .034 oz. 

3S ends black + 25% take-up = 

50 yds. 2-20 mere = .009 oz. 

114 ends white + 25% take-up = 

178 yds. 2-20 mere = .034 oz. 

56 picks X 34% in. = 1,932 yds. 

2-60 mere = 1.221 oz. 

Total 2.286 oz. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Only mills having up-to-date ma- 
chinery and also up-to-date ideas can 
hope to make figured silk leno. This 
class of goods requires a great deal 
firmer yarns than the other cloths that 
have been previously described, and 
these yarns are made in the third di- 
vision of mills (as classified in a pre- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



381 



vious article), i. e., mills making yarn 
from middle to high-grade cotton. The 

COUNTS OF YARNS 
for this class of goods vary from 30s 
to 60s warp and from 40s to 80s (single 
or double) filling. The filling yarn is 
generally mercerized and a great 
many times extra silk ends are used to 
produce a certain silk effect in the 
cloth. For the carding and spinning 
particulars we will consider the warp 
made up of l-40s cotton yarn and the 
filling of 2-60s yarn. 

THE COTTON USED 
should be of a good grade and a great 
deal of Allan seed cotton is used. This 
is generally about 1%-inch staple and 
should be as clean as possible. 

In mixing this class of cotton, it is 
very important that all the bales mix- 
ed should be of the same length of 
staple, and the overseer, or in large 
mills both the overseer of carding and 
the cotton sampler, sample the cotton 
from every bale, and if it is not up to 
the standard staple and grade, the 
bale is laid aside either to be taken 
back by the cotton broker or used for 
making yarns which can be made out 
of a shorter staple cotton. After this 
the cotton is put through a bale break- 
er (if the mill has one which it should) 
or the cotton may be mixed by hand, 
care being taken when this latter 
method is used that the layers of cot- 
ton taken from the bale are pulled 
apart as much as possible. The ones 
in charge of 

THE MIXING 
should watch the men while they are 
pulling the bales of cotton apart to see 
that they do not take too large layers 
from the bale and throw them into the 
mixing bin, which they will do if pos 
sible so as to get through with the 
job quickly, for it is dirty work at the 
best. The bins should be made as 
large as possible, so as to accommo- 
date a large mixing at one time, as 
large mixings help to make more even 
yam than small ones. 

IN SOME MILLS 
it is the custom to use two bins for mix- 
ing the same kind of cotton. The mix- 
ing is done as above described. But 
one bin is emptied at a time; the cot- 



ton in the other bin is allowed to dry 
out while that from the first bin is be- 
ing used. Of course, when one bin is 
empty it is immediately filled up again 
and the cotton is allowed to dry out 
in it until the second bin is emptied 
of cotton. When cotton is put through 
a bale breaker or any machine which 
opens the cotton up, it is only neces- 
sary to use one bin, and the cotton 
does not have to remain to air out, but 
may be used right away. The good 
waste from machines up to the slub- 
ber are used in the mixing, and cut 
roving is run in at the finished picker 
(it having first been run through the 
roving waste machine and made into 
laps at a breaker picker). The raw 
cotton is taken from the bin and put 
through an opener and 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. 

The speed of the opener beater 
should be about 1,000 revolu- 
tions per minute, the breaker and fin- 
isher beater (two-bladed) about 1,400 
to 1,450 revolutions per minute. It may 
seem strange that the speed of the 
beaters on the opener and pickers 
should be about the same as when low- 
grade cotton was used, because the 
general rule followed is that it 
longer stapled cotton is used, the 
less will be the speed of the beater, be- 
cause with longer stapled cotton a 
highly speeded beater is apt to and 
does put neps into the cotton, but it is 
necessary to run the beater at a high- 
er rate of speed for this class of cot- 
ton, because it is very dirty. 

EXPERIMENTS 
should be made with the beater in or- 
der to get it to run just fast enough so 
that it will take out the dirt and for- 
eign matter in the cotton, and the 
above speeds are given only as a basis 
from which to work. The weight of 
laps at the breaker picker should be 
about 16 ounces to yard of laps and at 
the finisher about 11 ounces to yard of 
lap, or for the finer counts 10 ounces 
per yard of lap may be used. The to- 
tal weight of the lap is 35 pounds and 
at the finisher picker receiving about 
42 beats of the beater for every inch 
feed. The method of finding 
the beats per minute is to multi- 
ply the revolutions per minute 



382 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of beater to one revolution per 
minute of feed rolls (this may be calcu- 



3 if a three-bladed beater is used). 
Divide this product by the circumfer- 




lated through the gears on the pick- 
er in the usual manner). Multiply rev- 
olutions per minute of beater by 2 (or 



ence of the feed roll. For example, 
suppose that the beater made 197.5 
revolutions per minute and was a 2- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



383 



bladed beater; then 197.5 jtimes 2 
equals 395 divided by 3 (diameter of 




:•.■••.:::::.•:: 



:::.*«:: 

!■■•■ ■■■■• ■ §■■ 



Q' 



ssJwK? 


tff fiff :±:iCf±::J±±: 


jfi rJtMt r^H^^^I 


};-:J§§JF^ 


JaStfc : i'S±&i3t-{j 


4| — ■ j041 I | -T* 




[JH| WW Wwn 


&;?»»$§ 


||ffll| Jj'-jJik 


luit-ifBWiK 


ffiftfifiTl^tji 


^tn383S 


i Sf r wK'fl 


iHiM±|::51.|!ftt- 




^!j^|^ : ||^:J|IJY 




^iji^^^fiff^^ 


JBhOs 


S'cffliiT" IV^Jf" 


J TipOvvt'K 


jV"Ht"1~ -t " C TTkl T" 


-iff "ti" f hW&i >r 


g|§P||!j|:l|l: 


jL^'jMfiViK 


^ Ftft-f^TF^ 


■ ji '■ £ Syw K ift 


d%& ffeftf ±"iai| it - 






-H-''+irtTWVV t? 

IF "' t Jjuc3ci!§! 


t -H- 4+f +P- + 1 +ii- - -t I++ ■ 


^^WftftgS 


%4i.-H±±±±?itt:|lfr 


i hV 3 ! V\f) 1 T ■ -?!L 


Jslliilill 



feed roll) times 3.14 plus equals 41.9 
beats per inch. Ans. 



The next machine is the card, and at 
this machine we see changes. In the 
first the wire fillets on the cylinder 
and doffer are finer. A good sized wire 
to use is 35s on the cylinder and 36 or 
37 on doffer and top flats. All parts are 
set closer to each other with the ex- 
ception of the nose of the feed plate in 
relation to the licker-in. The feed plate 
should be set so that the licker-in will 
not take the fibres being delivered be- 
fore they are free from the bit of the 
feed roll and feed plate. The speed 
of the top flats is sometimes increas- 
ed by lagging the top flats driving 
pulley. This is for the purpose of hav- 
ing more working flats on the cylin- 
der and which consequently results in 
taking out more waste. The 

SPEED OF THE DOFFER 
is a great deal less and thus the pro- 
duction is smaller, for it is quality first 
and quantity second with this class of 
goods. Of course, the quantity must be 
looked at to see that the production is 
as large as possible, but it must not be 
at the expense of quality. Sometimes 
on the finer counts of yarn the speed 
of the licker-in is reduced, and it is 
found to be of great benefit to the 
sliver delivered at the front, because 
it not only cleans the cotton more 
thoroughly, but it also tends to 
KEEP THE NEPS OUT 
and not to put them in. If carders 
have not tried this it might be a good 
plan to lag the licker-in pulley to 10 or 
10 y 2 inches diameter, instead of nine 
inches as it now is when using long 
staple cotton, especially Sea Island 
cotton. The draft of the card should 
be about 125 to 140, the sliver at the 
front weighing about 45 grains to the 
yard and the production of the card 
being not over 500 pounds per week of 
60 hours. Grind cards both often and 
light. The cotton for this class of 
goods is combed and 
BEFORE REACHING THE COMBER 
passes through the sliver lap and rib- 
bon lap machines, generally 14 ends 
up at the sliver lap and six laps at the 
ribbon laps. The weight per yard of lap 
at the ribbon lap machine should be 
about 260 grains. As the ribbon lap 
machine is at the drawing frame, nev- 



384 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



er draw more than you double. In 
some mills the ribbon lap machine is 
not used, but where it is used it saves 
about iy 2 per cent waste at the comb- 
er. 

THE COMBER 

should be properly set so as to take 
out about 16 per cent waste, the weight 
of sliver at front being about 45 grains 
to yard. The speed of comber for this 
class of cotton should be not over 90 
neps per minute. After the comber 
two processes of drawing are used, the 
sliver at the finisher weighing 70 
grains per yard. The settings of the 
rolls should be as follows: front to 
second 1| inches, second to third \y 2 
inches, and third to back 11 inches. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING 

should be .55 hank and the first inter- 
mediate fly frame roving 1.50 hank; 
second intermediate 4.00 hank, and 12 
hanks or packs for spinning 60s and 
.55 hank slubber 2.00 first intermediate 
and 8.00 fine frame for 40s. Care must 
be used in setting the rolls as well as 
in the adjustment of other parts of the 
fly frames. The cotton is taken to the 
mule spinning room and spun into the 
counts mentioned above, from here it 
is taken and put through the different 
processes required and sent away to 
be mercerized. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Following are the dyeing particu- 
lars for figured silk and leno waist- 
ing: 

DARK BLUE. 

10 per cent tetrazo sulphur blue B., 8 
per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent 
sal soda, 50 per cent common salt. 
Enter at boil, boil one hour, rinse 
quickly in cold water and give three 
washings in cold water. 

The tetrazo sulphur colors can be 
obtained from the New York and Bos- 
ton Dyewood Company. 

BROWN. 

10 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown R., 
1 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G., 9 
per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent 
sal soda, 80 per cent common salt. En- 
ter at boil, boil one hour, rinse quick- 



ly in water and then thoroughly three 
times. 

PEARL. 

1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black R. 
extra, 1 per cent sulphide soda cone, 2 
per cent sal soda, 10 per cent common 
salt; rinse well quickly in water, and 
then thoroughly three times. 

STEEL. 

1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black Ex., 
1 ounce tetrazo sulphur brown G., 1 
per cent sulphide soda cone, 10 per 
cent common salt; rinse well quickly 
in water, and then thoroughly three 
times. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

1 per cent new methylene blue GG., 
y 2 per cent thioflavine T., extra; enter 
at 120 degrees F. and get up to 160 de- 
grees F. in 30 minutes, and turn five or 
six times and wash. To be dyed or 
yarn mordanted with tannic acid and 
tartar emetic. 

TAN. 

2 per cent tetrazo sulphur bronze, 2 
per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G., 4 
per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent 
sal soda, 30 per cent common salt; en- 
ter at boil, boil one hour and wash 
well in three waters. 

ECRU. 

1 per cent tetrazo sulphur bronze, *4 
per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G., 1 
per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per 
cent sal soda, 20 per cent common 
salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, wash 
well in three waters. 

RED. 

4 per cent benzo fast red GL., 20 per 
cent Glauber's salt, 2 per cent sal 
soda, enter at 150 degrees F., give six 
turns to 180 degrees F., wash well in 
water. 

PINK. 

y 2 per cent diamond Rose GD., 2 per 
cent sal soda, 25 per cent Glauber's 
salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, and 
wash in water. 

MEDIUM BLUE. 

6 per cent pyrogene Indigo blue, 5 
per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



385 



soda ash, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; 
enter at boil, boil one hour, and wash 
well in water. 

SKY BLUE. 

2y 2 per cent immedial sky blue, 3 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; enter 
at boil, boil one hour; wash well in 
water. 

DARK GREEN. 

10 per cent pyrogene green B., 3 per 
cent pyrogene yellow M., 13 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 4 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at 
boil, boil one hour; wash well in four 
waters. 

Finishing Particulars. 
Starch with eight ounces cornstarch, 
six ounces white cocoanut oil soften- 
ing, one gallon water, boil one hour; 
dry over stenter frame and calender. 



CORDUROY 

Corduroy is a narrow, all-cotton fab- 
ric, the distinguishing feature of which 
is the perfect half-round regular ribs 
running warp ways through the cloth. 
As a fabric, it belongs to the general 
class of filling pile fabrics, and is 
made of one system of warp and two 
of filling. The warp must be of good 
cotton staple to make a fine strong 
end. The pile filling should be of first- 
class cotton, soft spun, to blend more 
readily when the ribs are rubbed after 
being cut and brushed. 

The warp and ground filling is wo- 
ven either _L, _!_ or JL twill, the pile 

1 ' 1 2 ' 

pick weaves with either one, two or 
three warp end, and floats over from 
three to 12 warp ends. The length of 
the float of pile filling depends upon 
the width of rib or cord desired in the 
fabric. The important point about the 
pile weave is to cause the pile filling to 
weave with the same two or three 
warp threads. This gives us lines of 
binding and lines of filling floats run- 
ning warp ways. 

The velvety ribs or cords, as noted 
upon the face of a corduroy, are creat- 
ed by first cutting the lines of floats 
of the pile filling. This operation is 



performed by hand or machine with a 
very sharp steel knife, after which the 
ends of the floats are carefully brush- 
ed, and then rubbed together to the 
proper degree of consistency desired 
in ribs. 

Corduroy is woven with from 160 to 
500 picks of filling per inch; and is 
afterward dyed in dark blue, tan, buff, 
green and olive colors, to be used in 
making clothing for men or women. 



GnssaaWDOBBOQBB 
^■-;':»ueffl»fflfflfflGBB»a 

DTjaaammaammaommo 



Design. 

onaoDGDoaDDBongg 
DCDODQaoacwooaoa 

DDDDOOQBaDDDDDDB 

DaaQQalaQoooDCBa 
ooolanaaoQccoDog 

B300BnDDBaDDBDQa 

Drawing-in Draft. 

CGHBDDBBC3BB03BB 

caaoBBOoBBCOBBna 
Reed Plan. 

DDDBDDBD 

BDCiDDCi 
□OBdDQOB 
aDDBCDBD 
DDBBBBBB 
DDBOCDDB 

aBaosoaa 

DDDDBDBD 

DDBCDDQO 

mmaoaaaa 
Chain Draft. 



Ground Weave * 



J5 Means floats of Pile Filling. 

EJ Means sinking of Pile Filling under the warp for the purpose of binding ia. 

It is also used for upholstery pur- 
poses, either in plain, solid colors or 
the plain color has an elaborate floral 
design printed upon it. These printed 
patterns are usually in bright colors, 
such as red, yellow, light green. 

IN PRINTING, 

the design is first engraved upon a set 
of copper rollers. These are set into a 
regular machine, and as the cloth 
passes over them, the color being fed 
to the rollers automatically, the de- 
sign is placed upon the face of the 
cloth. 

It is woven so as to finish from 27 to 
31% inches, the 27-inch for clothing 
and 31% -inch for upholstery. 



386 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



This fabric requires a loom to be in 
good condition, as the beating in of 
such a high number of picks per inch 
of filling is hard on the loom, and also 
necessitates slow production. 

It is usually woven on dobby or cam 
loom, having single or double box. 

Weaves are usually -|_ or J- or _L 

Filling, 1 ground, 1 pile, 1 ground, 2 
pile, or 1 ground, 2 pile, 1 ground, 1 
pile, this to be woven in a pick and 
pick loom. 

Finish — Woven in the gray and dyed 
in the piece. 

Four square inches equal 21.2 grains. 
Finished width, 31 inches, equals 13.51 
ounces. 



equals 23.89 or l-24s cotton ground! 
filling. 

Weight of pile filling per one-half 
inch finished cloth two inches wide, 
equals 2.6 grains. 

2.6 grains x 15% equals 40.32x72 
equals 3,097.5 grains divided by 437.5 
equals 7.08 ounces. Pile filling per 
yard, cloth 31 inches wide. 

Forty-eight ends per inch finished 
times 31 inches equals 1,488 yards plus 
10 per cent take-up in weaving equals 
1,653 yards of 2-28s cotton warp equals 
2.249 ounces. 

160 ground picks times 31 equals 
4,960 yards of l-24s cotton filling 
equals 3.936 ounces. 

240 picks times 31 equals 7,440 




Corduroy. 



48 ends per inch 2-28s cotton warp. 
160 picks per inch l-24s cotton ground 

filling. 
240 picks per inch l-20s cotton pile 
filling. 

The above equals finished cloth. 

Twenty pieces warp yarn, two 
inches, equals 40 inches equals .65 
grains; 40 x 7,000 equals 280,000 di- 
vided by .65 equals 430,769, equals 11,- 
965.8 divided by 840 equals 14.24 or 
2-28s cotton warp yarn. 

Eighty pieces ground filling, two 
inches equals 160 inches equals 1.55 
grains; 160 x 7,000 equals 1,120,000, 
divided by 1.55 equals 722,580, divided 
by 36 equals 20,071.66, divided by 840 



yards of l-20s cotton pile filling, 
equals 7.08 ounces. 

7,440 yards times 16 equals 119,040 
yards divided by 840, equals 1,417, di- 
vided by 7.08 equals l-20s pile filling. 
CONSTRUCTION. 
36 ends per inch in reed; 38% 
inches wide, 10 per cent take-up; 25 
per cent contraction in width from 
reed to finished fabric; 18 per cent in- 
crease in weight in dyeing. 

COLOR— DARK GREEN. 
To be used for upholstery purposes. 

8 twill weave. 
" Filling: 1 ground pick, 2 pile pick, 
1 ground pick, 1 pile pick. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



387 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Yarn suitable for making corduroy 
is made in the second division of mills, 
given in a previous lesson. The raw 
stock used should be of a good grade 
cotton of about 1 inch staple. The mix- 
ings should be as large as possible 
for reasons already stated in previous 
lessons. One large group of mills, 
which make this class of goods, use a 
somewhat different machine for open- 
ing up the raw cotton from that which 
has been described, and instead of us- 
ing an opener after the cotton is put 
through the bale breaker, it is fed to 
a machine called 

THE WILLOW. 
The cotton is fed into the machine in 
small lots and the machine pulls it 
apart and thoroughly airs it. Some 
overseers claim that this machine 
treats the cotton to a more thorough 
airing than when an opener is used. 
It is again claimed that, in conse- 
quence of this fact, the cotton may 
be used right from the bale or mixed 
at this machine. It is an English ma- 
chine, and while this system is used to 
some extent in England, it is the gen- 
eral custom to use the opener in this 
country. Good sliver waste from the 
cards and drawing frames is used in 
the mixing, as is also the sliver and 
lap waste from the comber room, 
when the mill is equipped with comb- 
ers. 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKERS 
are used with either a willow or an 
opener. Cut-roving waste is used and 
is mixed in at the finisher picker in 
the way that has been described in a 
previous lesson. If an opener is used, 
the speed of the beater should be 
about 1,000 to 1,100 revolutions per 
minute, with a speed of the fan about 
350 revolutions per minute. The speed 
of the beater at the breaker picker 
should be about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, and the speed of the fan about 
1,400 revolutions per minute. A good 
weight for the lap made at the breaker 
picker is 40 pounds, while a good 
weight per yard of lap is 16 ounces. 
At the finisher picker the speed of the 
beater should be 1,450 revolutions per 
minute for a two-bladed beater, or 9.50 



revolutions per minute for a three- 
bladed beater. The speed of the fan 
should be about 1,100 revolutions per 
minute with either beater. 

A GOOD WEIGHT 
for the lap would be about 38 pounds 
and the weight per yard 14 ounces. To 
get the grade of cotton used for this 
class of cloth clean, about 42 beats 
should be given to every inch of cot- 
ton fed at the back of the finisher pick- 
er. In other words, every inch of cot- 
ton should be struck 42 times before 
it is passed by the beater. With the 
above speed of the beater (1,450) this 
would be the number of blows that 
every inch of cotton received. Don't 
forget that it is very important to re- 
move the fly from underneath the 
pickers at regular intervals during the 
day, because, if the fly is allowed to 
accumulate to any great extent, it 
might be drawn into the already clean- 
ed cotton passing through the ma- 
chine, and it is sometimes done, as all 
persons working around cards know, 
for they have seen at various times 
large patches of fly on the .lap of cot- 
ton. This, of course, requires the card 

TO DO EXTRA WORK 
and clean and take out this dirt. It 
very often results in bringing up the 
feed roll or the licker-in of the card, if 
not noticed in time to remove the fly. 
It will be seen that it is important 
to keep the picker room clean at all 
times. It is very important to keep 
foreign matter, such as nails or pieces 
of metal, out of the cotton in the pick- 
er room, because of the liability of 
fires in the pickers, these being start- 
ed by the foreign substance coming in 
contact with the quick moving beater 
blades and a spark being struck which 
ignites the cotton. This is apt to 
cause a bad fire if not promptly at- 
tended to. The 

SETTINGS OF THE CARD 
should be the same as given in a pre- 
vious lesson on yarn, made in the sec- 
ond division of mills. The draft of 
the card should be about 100 to 125 
for this class of cotton, the weight of 
the sliver at the front 65 grains to the 
yard; production, about 800 pounds 
per week of 60 hours. Three processes 



388 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of drawing are used, the weight at the 
finisher drawing being 70 grains per 
yard. The hank roving at the slubber 
should be about .55. The two-process 
fly frame is used, the hank at the first 
intermediate being 2, and at the sec- 
ond intermediate 6.00 hank roving. 
The rule for settings at these ma- 
chines for this hank of roving has 
been given. 

The spinning frame spins all the re- 
quired counts for this hank roving, 
which, for the corduroy under de- 
scription, is 20s, 24s and 28s, by 
changing the draft gear. The 28s yarn 
is then taken to the twister and 
doubled, so as to make 2-28s. A good 
sizing for the slasher for this class 
of goods is as follows: Water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; 
tallow, four pounds; turpentine, one 
pint. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

These goods are dyed at the jigger 
machine, a piece of 30 pounds being 
dyed. Care must be taken not to crush 
the pile. 

One-dip colors are used for some 
goods, but, as the sulphur colors are 
so much improved, the bottom color 
is dyed with sulphur colors, and the 
goods topped with brighter aniline 
colors. 

COLOR NO. 1— BLACK. 

Blacks are sometimes dyed with a 
sulphur black as a bottom color. For 
30 pounds of cloth (all of these colors 
are for 30 pounds of cloth) ; 15 gallons 
liquor, 3 pounds immedial black V. 
Ex., 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 3 
pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common 
salt. Dissolve in separate tub, boil 
and strain through cotton cloth. Add 
to jig, in two portions, at first two 
ends. Run for 30 minutes at boil. 
Rinse in jig. After-treat with 1 pound 
bichromate potash, one-half pound 
sulphate iron. Rinse well and dye log- 
wood black. Rinse well and top with 
a paint color as Prussian blue, or dye 
with a basic color. 

ANOTHER BLACK. 

Dye as color No. 1, with immedial 
black, and top with oxydiamine black 



AM., and rinse. Top with basic color 
or paint with Prussian blue. 

DARK BLUE. 

2-4 pounds immedial blue C, 2-4 
pounds sulphide sodium, 3 pounds 
soda ash, 3 pounds common salt at 
175 degrees F. Run 30 minutes. After- 
treat, cold 15 gallons liquor, 4 pounds 
peroxide soda, 6 ounces ammonia. 
Run 20 minutes. 

For further batches, half the 
amount of drugs will suffice. The color 
can be shaded up with basic colors. 

TAN. 

1 pound immedial brown B., 1 
pound sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal 
soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run at 
boil for 30 minutes. Top with Bis- 
marck brown. 

BUFF. 

1 pound immedial bronze - A., 2 
ounces immedial yellow D., 2 pounds 
sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 
pounds common salt. Run at boil 30 
minutes. Rinse and after-treat, 1 
pound bichromate of potash. 

PEARL. 

3 ounces immedial black V. extra, % 
ounce immedial brown B., 1 pound so- 
dium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 2 
pounds common salt. Run at boil 30 
minutes. After-treat, y 2 pound bichro- 
mate potash, y 2 pound sulphate cop- 
per. 

RED. 

2 pounds diamine fast red F., 10 
pounds Glauber's salt. Run one hour 
at boil. Rinse. After -treat, y 2 pound 
fluoride chrome. Top with diamine 
scarlet or safranine. 

GREEN. 

1 pound immedial black V. extra, 2 
pounds sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal 
soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 
minutes at boil. Rinse. Top with solid 
green crystals O. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

V 2 pound katigen chrome blue 5G., 1 
pound sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal 
soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 
minutes at boil. Rinse. Top with 
auramine and green. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



380 



OLIVE. 

1 pound pyrogene olive N., 2 pounds 
sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 
pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes. 
Rinse. Top with auramine and Bis- 
marck brown. 

DARK BROWN. 

2 pounds sulphur brown, 4 ounces 
sulphur black, 3 pounds sodium sul- 
phide, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 
minutes. Rinse. Top with auramine 
green, Bismarck brown or paint a 
brown on top, or dye a catechu and 
chrome bottom, and top with the above 
brown. 



DIMITY 



Dimity is a light-weight cotton wash 
fabric, the distinguishing feature of 
which is the cords or ribs running 
warpwise through the cloth, and pro- 
duced by doubling the warp threads 
in either heddle or reed in sufficient 
quantity to form the rib desired. 



nBOBOHnanooBQBB* 
■asaaaiasBSGsaag 
DBOBaaoBaoasnflaa 

■OBQBQBOBBBUHnDa 
DBaBaBDBDDCBCHSa 
BDBOBOBaBSaOBOOa 

□bqbobobqqubc)bhb 

■OBQBDBOBBBQBOaa 

Design. 

DDnBDDDBannnnEDD 
oaaaDDBaDDDDBDar 

□BOaOBQODDOHQOac 

BoaaBoaoBaaQoonG 
Drawing-in Draft. 

OOBBODBBaaOBBCIDa 

BaaoaanoBflBODasfl 
I 3 cuds 
per heddle and dent. 
Keed Plan. 

□BOB 

.■DID 

Dana 

BDBQ 



Chain Draft. 

Dimity is a ladies' summer dress 
fabric and is made of regular cotton 
yarn, from l-60s to the very finest 
counts in both warp and filling, and is 
made in white and colors, solid white 
being used in the more . expensive 
grades (warp and filling). 

Dimity is made in ribbed stripe ef- 
fects, and in such colors as ecru, pearl, 
light blue and blue. These colors are 
sometimes printed upon the face of 



the fabric, after it has been woven in 
the white. 

Jacquard scroll and other figures 
are printed upon the white dimity to 
create elaborate patterns. 

Dimity is always woven with a plain 
weavei — ■-, and by printing fancy floral 
designs upon the white surface of the 
cloth, that compactness of texture is 
retained which the plain weave alone 
can give. If, for instance, the floral 
effect were woven into the cloth, ends 
and picks remaining the same as for 
the plain weave, there would be cre- 
ated loose places warpwise of the 
cloth, due to the warp floats in form- 
ing figures. 

Dimity, being a light-weight fabric 
composed of very fine yarns, is there- 
fore best adapted to the lightest run- 
ning looms. A plain or dobby loom 
would be the most suitable for this 
fabric; one capable of weaving from 
two beams, as these are usually wo- 
ven. 

Dimity is made in grades having 
from 64 ends and picks per inch to 
100 and more ends and picks per inch, 
the count of the yarn varying in ac- 
cordance with the degree of texture 
desired. 

Dimity as a dress fabric has a rath- 
er soft feel, and so receives but very 
slight amount of starch in finishing, 
which process includes washing, 
bleaching, drying and calendering the 
goods, which are afterward rolled or 
lapped into bolts, "each cut or piece 
constituting a bolt." Each bolt or 
piece is then folded, the paper bands 
put on, and the goods are ready to 
pack and ship. 

Construction. 

One square inch equals .6 grain. 

28%x36 equals 1,026x6 equals 
615.6 divided by 1 square inch equals 
615.6 divided by 437.5 equals 1.407 
ounces per yard; 28% inches wide fin- 
ished. 

40 pieces white warp yarn x 1% 
inches equals 50 inches equals .16 
'grains; 50x7,000 equals 350,000 divided 
by 1-6 equals 2,187,500, divided by 36 
equals 60,762, divided by 840 equals 
l-76s cotton warp. 



390 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



35 pieces white filling yarn x 1% 
inches equals 52% inches equals 1.6 
grains 52%x7,000 equals 367,500 di- 
vided by .16 equals 2,296,875 divided by 
36 equals 63,691 divided by 840 equals 
l-76s cotton filling. 

28% inches wide finished, 106 ends 
per inch finished, 84 picks per inch fin- 
ished, equals 29 3-5 inches in reed, 
100 ends per inch, 80 picks per inch 
loom. 

1,800 reed — 2 ends per dent 
(ground), cord — 3 ends per dent and 
heddle, 5 per cent take-up in weaving. 

3,021 ends plus 5 per cent equals 
3,180 yards l-72s cotton warp equals 
.841 ounces, 84 picks times 28% 
inches equals 2,394 yards l-76s cotton 
filling equals .6 ounces, total 1.441 
ounces; 1.441 ounces per yard fin- 
ished. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Dimity, or rather the counts of 
yarn required to make this style of 
cloth, requires first-class machinery, 
and it is, therefore, made in the third 
division of mills as given in a previ- 
ous article. The grade and length of 
staple of the cotton used varies with 
the weight per yard of the cloth be- 
ing made and may be composed of 
1%-inch Allen cotton to 2-inch Sea 
Island cotton. For this lesson we will 
consider the counts to be 80s and the 
cotton used to be 1%-inch Sea Island. 
The mixings should be large and cot- 
ton allowed to dry out before being 
worked. As Sea Island cotton is com- 
paratively a clean cotton it 

REQUIRES LESS CLEANING 
than other cottons, and another rea- 
son for putting it through less proc- 
esses in the picker room is because oi) 
its length. If run through too many 
beaters the cotton is apt to be filled 
with neps. For Sea Island cotton of 
medium to long staple, i. e., from 1% 
to 2% inches, it is better to use only 
opener and one process of picking, as 
compared with two processes of pick- 
ing for other grades of cotton. The 
speed should not exceed 1,000 revolu- 
tions per minute, for a rigid two-blad- 
ed beater. This gives the cotton pass- 
ing through the finisher picker about 
29 blows or beats per inch. The laps 



should not be as heavy as when lower 
grades of cotton are used and a good 
weight of lap at the finisher picker is 
30 pounds or 10 ounces to the yard. 
The card setting points should be set 
as close as possible, with the excep- 
tion of the feed plate to the licker-in. 
The space between these two parts 
should be increased to the correct 
length of the staple being used. The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 
should be increased to 125 or even 
150, the speed of the licker-in made 
slower by lagging the licker-in pulley 
to 10% inches, the speed of the flats 
and of the beater should also be 
slower and at the finisher picker in- 
creased and the speed of the doffer 
slower. The production of the card 
for fine counts of Sea Island yarn 
should not exceed 350 pounds per 
week of 60 hours, the weight per yard 
at the card being 40 grains per yard. 
The stock is then passed to the comb- 
er room and is here passed through 
the sliver lap and the ribbon lap ma- 
chines and from here to the comber. 
Generally speaking, 14 ends are 
doubled at the sliver lap machine and 
the weight of the lap at the front is 
about 230 grains. Six laps are put up 
at the ribbon lap machine and the 

WEIGHT OF LAP DELIVERED 
is about 200 grains per yard. In very 
fine work only five laps are put up at 
the ribbon lap machine. The comber 
used is what is termed a six-headed 
comber, and the draft of this machine 
is considerable. The amount of waste 
taken out at the comber is more than 
that taken out of all the rest of the 
card room combined and for the cot- 
ton under description is from 20 to 
25 per cent. The weight of the sliver 
being delivered is about 34 grains and 
the production of a six-head comber 
making 85 nips per minute is about 
240 pounds per week of 60 hours. The 
cotton is next put through two proc- 
esses of drawing, the weight at the 
finisher drawing being 55 grains per 
yard. The slubber makes this sliver 
into a .80 hank roving. 

THE HANK ROVING 
at the first intermediate is 2.25; at 
the second intermediate 5.00 hank and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



391 



at the jack 18.00 hank. Care should 
be taken with the settings of the rolls 
at all the machines, and also the cot- 
ton in process should be kept as free 
from dirt and bunches as possible. 
Cleaners should be frequently picked 
so that the bunches gathered on them 
will not pass through into the clean- 
ed cotton. 

The cotton is next carried to the 
spinning room, some mills using ring 
frame yarn for both warp and filling 
and some mills using ring spinning 
for warp and mule spun yarn for fill- 
ing. We will consider that the warp 
yarn is ring spun and the filling is 



per minute and the production about 
.32 pounds per spindle per week. 

The filling is made on the mule or 
frame, and all that need be said is 
that the twist is less only 3.25 x the 
square root of the counts being put in. 
A good size to use for slasher is as 
follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato 
starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 
pounds; soap (white), 172 pounds; 
paraffin wax, 1 pound. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
PINK. 
For 100 pounds of cloth, 1 ounce 




Samples of Dimity. 



ring spun. The doublings at the ring 
frame are 2 into 1 and the draft of 
the machine about 9 minus. It will be 
understood that 

ONLY THE LATEST STYLES 
of ring frames can spin 80s yarn, and 
to do it, it is desirable to have the 
guide rolls rotate so that the roving 
being drawn over them will not be 
broken. For 80s yarn a good gauge 
of spindle is 2% inches with a l 1 ^ 
diameter ring and a 4% -inch traverse. 
The size traveler to be used varies 
and the correct one is only found by 
experimenting, but a good foundation 
to work from is a 22-0 traveler. The 
standard warp twist is 4.50 x square 
root of count. The speed of the 
spindles should be 9,400 revolutions 



benzo fast pink 2BL., 10 per cent soap, 
150 degrees F. 

LIGHT SKY BLUE. 
y 2 per cent immedial sky blue pow- 
der, 1 per cent sodium sulphide, 1 per 
cent soda ash, 10 per cent Glauber's 
salt; wash well and top with 1 ounce 
Methylene blue O. O. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
4 ounces brilliant benzo green B, y 2 
ounce chrysophenine, 10 per cent soap, 
150 degrees F. 

PEARL. " 

4 ounces immedial black NRT, Y 2 
per cent sulphide sodium, y 2 per cent 
soda ash, 2 per cent Glauber's salt. 
GRAY. 

4 per cent immedial black NRT, ^4 



392 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ounce immedial olive B, y 2 per cent 
sulphide soda, y 2 per cent soda ash, 2 
per cent Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

y 2 pound immedial direct blue B, y± 
ounce immedial olive B, y 2 pound sul- 
phide soda, y 2 pound soda ash, 2 per 
cent Glauber's salt. 

SLATE. 

\y 2 per cent immedial black NRT, 
\y 2 per cent immedial direct blue B, 3 
per cent sodium sulphide, 1 per cent 
soda ash, 10 per cent Glauber's salt. 

ECRU. 

y 2 per cent immedial bronze A, % 
ounce immedial yellow D, 1 pound so- 
dium sulphide, 1 pound soda ash, 10 
pounds Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT TAN. 

y 2 per cent immedial cutch G, % per 
cent immedial orange C, 1 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 1 per cent soda ash, 
10 per cent Glauber's salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Zy 2 per cent immedial indone B, 2y 2 
per cent immedial direct blue B, 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda 
ash, 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

SCARLET. 

5 per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 BS, 
30 per cent Glauber's salt, 2 per cent 
soda ash. 

SALMON. 

4 per cent benzo fast orange S, 1 
ounce benzo fast scarlet 8 BS, 10 per 
cent Glauber's salt. y 2 per cent soda 
ash. 

MAUVE. 

4 ounces benzo fast violet R, 2 
ounces benzo fast blue BN, 10 per cent 
Glauber's salt, y 2 per cent soda ash. 



CHAMBRAY 



Finishing Particulars. 

Mix up cold y 2 pound white German 
dextrine, 1 gallon water, boil one hour, 
and starch through mangle and dry 
over tenter frame. 



Chambray is a light-weight, single 
cloth fabric, that is always woven with 
a plain weave and always has a white 
selvage. It is a staple fabric of 
many years' standing, being next in 
the line of cotton goods after the better 
grades of gingham. In effect it is a 
cloth having but one color in the warp, 
and woven with a white filling, this 
combination producing a solid color 
effect, the white filling having the 
chance of reducing any harshness of 
warp color in the cloth. 

COMPOSITION. 

Chambray is composed of one warp 
and one filling, either all cotton, cot- 



nBoaoaos 

■□■aaDaa 

□BQBDBDB 
BDBDBDBD 
QBDBOBCB 

anBoanaa 

□BQBOBQB 

BDBDBGBD 

Weave 



DOdBODOB 
DOBDQDBD 

naopamaa 

BODQBOQO 
DrawiDg-iD Draft 

DDoannaa 

BBdUaBGa 
Reed Plan 



ton and silk, or all silk. It is made 
27 to 30 inches in width and of l-30s 
cotton warp to l-60s silk, the count of 
yarn being governed by the weight 
per yard desired. The weight per 
finished yard is 2 to 3% ounces. 

GOOD COLORS 

for the warp are navy blue, dark 
brown, pink, lavender, black, nile 
green, etc. 

This fabric is woven on any and 
all plain looms that will weave other 
light-weight cloths, the lightest run- 
ning looms being the best on account 
of being easier on the fine warp yarns 
employed. 

Chambray, when made ,of cotton 
warp and filling, receives a regular 
gingham finish, and the loom width 
can be restored to the goods during 
the finishing by the process of ten- 
tering. 

TENTERING 
means the running of the goods over 
a machine, fitted underneath with a 
series of coils of steam pipe; the top 
of the machine is fitted with an end- 
less chain (on either side). This 
chain has a row of steel needles stand- 
ing erect upon its face. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



393 



These chains are adjustable. This 
permits of altering the space between 
the chains, the idea being to set the 
chain the width desired, and as the 
machine runs, pass the needles 
through either selvage, and the cloth 
is stretched to the width desired. 

To finish chambray, first run through 
the sprinkler, then through a solution 
of warm size, to stiffen the fabric. 
After tbe sizing the goods are tenter- 
ed, to widen and partly dry them, then 
run through the cylinder to complete 
drying and last the calender to re- 
move wrinkles, and to produce smooth, 
evenly ironed finish. 

1 square inch equals 1.23 grains. 

27x36 equals 973x1.23 equals 1,195.- 
56 divided by 1 equals 1,195.56 divid- 
ed by 437.5 equals 2.736 ounces pel 
yard. 

27 inches wide finished. 

15 pieces light blue warp yarn x 4 
inches equals 60 inches equals .58 
grains — 6 per cent weight size equals 
.5452 grains — 15 per cent take-up 
equals .4635 grains. 

60x7,000 equals 420,000 divided by 
.4635 equals 906,148 divided by 36 
equals 25,176 divided by 840 equals 
l-30s warp. 

30 pieces white filling yarn x 2 
inches equals 60 inches equals .55 
grains. 

60x7,000 equals 420,000 divided by 
.55 equals 763,636 divided by 36 equals 
21,214 divided by 840 equals 1-363 
filling. 

78 ends per inch finished and 60 
picks per inch finished equals 72 ends 
in reed per inch and 56 picks in loom 
per inch. 

6 per cent size on warp; 15 per cent 
take-up on warp; weaving. 

1,300 reed, 2 ends per dent. 

27 inches wide finished including 
selvage. 

78 ends x 27 inches equals 2,106 plus 
32 ends white selvage equals 2,138. 

Reed Plan. 
2,106 blue ends + 15% take-up = 

2,477.65 yards l-30s warp = 1.573 oz. 

32 white ends + 15% take-up = 

37.65 yards l-30s selvage = .023 oz. 

60 picks per inch X 27 inches = 

1,620 yards l-26s white filling. = 1.1S6 oz. 



2.782 ounces per yard. 



2.7S2 oz. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The required machines, etc., to make 
chambray belong to the second di- 
vision of mills as given in a previous 
lesson. For this class of goods a 1 
to IVjg inch staple American cotton 
may be used. Mixings should be large, 
so that the yarn will always be as 
uniform as possible. After being run 
through the bale breaker, the cotton 
should be passed through an opener 
and two processes of picking. The 
usual points that have already been 
given in connection with the picker 
room should be looked after and need 
not be repeated here. The speed of 
the beater on opener is 1,050 revolu- 
tions per minute, fan 350 revolutions 
per minute, and be sure to keep hopper 
on this machine at least three-fourths 
full of cotton all the time that the 
machine is working. The speed of a 
two-bladed rigid beater at the breaker 
is 1,500 revolutions per minute and 
the speed of the fan 1,400 revolutions 
per minute. The lap at this machine 
weighs 16 ounces to the yard or about 
40 pounds for the total weight of lap. 

The speed of the beater at the finish- 
er should be about 1,450 revolutions 
per minute and the fan 1,100 revolu- 
tions per minute, the weight of the 
lap 14 ounces, the total weight of the 
lap being 39 pounds. Cut-roving waste 
is mixed in with the good waste at 
the finisher picker as usual. The set- 
tings of the card should be about as 
given in a previous lesson when the 
settings for mills making medium 
counts of yarn were given in detail. 
The draft of the card should be about 
100 and the speed of the licker-in 300 
revolutions per minute. The wire used 
should be No. 34 on cylinder and 35 on 
doffer and flats. The cards should be 
ground at least once a month and 
stripped three times a day, for this 
class of goods. The weight per yard 
of sliver should be about 65 grains and 
the production per week 750 pounds. 
The cards should be cleaned thoroughly 
at least twice a day and the fronts 
should be cleaned at least twice more; 
the strips should be connected four 
times a day at regular intervals, for if 
this is not done the strips are apt to 
get under the stripping comb and onto 



394 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



the flats, thus bringing up the comb 
and wire onto the flats. The flats 
should be ground at least once a month 
and a great deal of care should be 
taken with the setting of the grinding 
roll., because if this roll is set heavier 
on one side than on the other the cot- 
ton will not be evenly carded. 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 

Three processes of drawing are 
used for this class of goods, the speed 
of the front roll being 400 revolutions 
per minute and the weight of the sliver 
at the finisher drawing should be 72 
grains per yard. Production for 60 
hours, 1,620 pounds per head per week. 
A good setting for the rolls for 1 1-16- 
inch staple would be as follows: 1 3-16 



machine not being properly regulated. 
The 6.00 hank roving is taken to the 
spinning room and spun into 30s yarn. 
To do this, the following is given as 
the best equipped frame: For filling 
for 30s yarn most any high-grade 
spindle may be used and good results 
obtained; gauge of frame 2% inches; 
diameter of ring 1| inches; length of 
traverse 6 inches and twist per inch 
19.17. For 30s warp yarn, gauge of 
frame 23 inches; diameter of ring 1| 
inches; length of traverse f>y 2 inches; 
twist per inch 26.02. 

A good size that may be used at 
the slasher for this class of goods is 
as follows: Water, 100 gallons; corn 
starch, 50 pounds; tallow, 3 pounds; 
turpentine, 1 gill; boil 30 minutes. 



Chambray. 



inches between front and second rolls, 
1 5-16 inches between second and 
third rolls and 1 7-16 inches between 
third and back rolls. The slubber 
rolls are read as follows: Front roll 
to middle roll 1 3-16 inches; middle to 
back roll 1 5-16 inches. The slubber 
makes the sliver into a .55 hank rov- 
ing. The hank roving at the first in- 
termediate is 2.00 and fine frame 6.00 
hank. Keep the bunches out of the 
roving as much as possible and change 
the top leather rolls frequently. Watch 
all your frames to see that no one 
frame is making too much bad work 
either by a poor hand or through the 



Dyeing Particulars. 
RED. 
3y 2 per cent benzo fast red G L; 1 
per cent chrysophenine; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
• LAVENDER. 
Vi per cent benzo fast violet R; 2 
ounces benzo fast blue B N; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
NILE GREEN. 
5 per cent katigen green 2 B; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda; 
20 per cent Glauber's. 
PINK. 
5 per cent diamine rose B D; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



395 



OLIVE. 

3 per cent immedial olive B; y 2 per 
cent immedial black N B; 1 per cent 
immedial brown B; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 4 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 
per cent soda. 

BLACK. 
15 per cent immedial black N N; 

15 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 

4 per cent immedial indone B; 5 
per cent immedial indone R; 9 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. 

DARK BROWN. 
15 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown 
B; 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black; 

16 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda. 

DARK SLATE. 

2 per cent immedial black N B; 2 
per cent immedial direct blue B; x /4 
per cent immedial yellow D; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda; 
5 per cent sulphide soda. 

DARK GREEN. 

8 per cent immedial dark green B; 

1 per cent immedial yellow D; 10 per 

cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 

Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

3 per cent thion brown G; 3 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 1 per cent soda; 
20 per cent Glauber's. 

Finishing Particulars. 
STARCH. 
% pound corn starch; 1 gallon 
water, mix cold, and boil y 2 hour; dry 
on cans and give a light calender. 



CANTON FLANNEL 

Canton flannel is a narrow, heavy 
all-cotton fabric, having a twill effect 
on one side of the cloth and a long, 
soft nap on the other side. It is al- 
ways made with one warp and one fill- 
ing. The weave generally is a J — 
twill for the winter weights, and - 1 
twill for summer weight. The warp is 
composed of regular cotton yarns to 



which a very small percentage of size 
has been added, say 2 or 3 per cent, 
just sufficient to allow the yarn to 
withstand the operation of weaving. 
The filling is spun from a good grade 
of cotton, and is made with a slack 
twist to enable it to nap more readily, 
as this portion of the cloth is that 
which gives the fabric its one dis- 
tinguishing feature. 

THE TWILL WEAVE 
is used in the construction of this fab- 
ric, because it permits of long regular 
floats in the filling effect of the weave, 
and these floats present an excellent 
surface from which to raise a nap. 
The other side of the cloth, being the 
warp effect of the twill weave, serves 
to create the diagonal rib or twill 
lines. 

These goods are made to sell at 27 
to 30 inches in width, at about 5% 
ounces, winter weight, composed of 
l-10s to l-6s warp and filling; also 3*4 
ounces, summer weight, composed of 
l-20s to l-14s warp and filling, the 
heavy, coarse yarn in each instance 
being the filling. 

Canton flannel can be woven on any 
single box-plain loom. 

L^mme-r weight three ounces'. 



QDECC.3 

ouoaaa 

BDDBDD 
OCMDOB 

o«aa«a 

■DDBDQ 



ODHODQBO 

DHoaoaao 

■aOOBODD 

oanaaaas 
qobqoobd 
aaaDQHQO 

ELnceOaa 



Winter weight five ounces. 



OOBDDB 

aaansa 



DDDBDaOB 

aaaooQBD 

c . ; jnr;(= jn 
saaaacca 



The nap is raised on the cloth by 
running the goods through a machine 
built especially for this purpose. The 
machine consists of an iron frame 
having a series of rollers set within it, 
and over these rollers the cloth passes 
The napping itself is done by a roller 
similar to a fancy on a woolen card. 
The cloth in passing over the wooden 
rollers at length passes between the 
wire toothed roller and a wooden roll- 
er. The cloth is being drawn through 
the machine automatically in one 
direction, and the wire-toothed roller 
revolves in the opposite direction, and 
being set for a nap of desired height 



396 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



or loftiness, the wire, coming in con- 
tact with the soft filling yarn, brushes 
the fibre in such a manner as to cause 
it to stand out from the body of the 
filling thread, hence the nap. 

Canton flannel is taken direct from 
the loom, measured, napped and fold- 
ed; then is ready to pack and ship. 

4 square inches equals 9.25 grains. 
27 1 / 4 inches selling width. 27% x 36 
equals 981 x 9.25 equals 9,074.25 di- 
vided by 4 equals 2,268.56 divided 
by 437.5 equals 5.185 ounces per yard. 
27% inches finished. 

15 pieces warp x 3 inches equals 45 
inches equals 1.14 grains. 

45 x 7,000 equals 315,000 divided by 
1.14 equals 276,315.78 divided by 36 
equals 7,675.44 divided by 840 equals 
9.14 or l-10s cotton warp. 

8 pieces filling x 5 inches equals 40 
inches equals 1.18 grains. 

40 x 7,000 equals 280,000 divided by 
1.18 equals 237,288.13 divided by 36 
equals 6,591.33 divided by 840 equals 
7.84 or l-8s cotton filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed 540 — 30 3-5 inches, including 
selvage of 32 ends, 4 ends per dent. 
5 per cent take-up in weaving. 

68 ends per inch finished and 48 
picks per inch finished equals 60 ends 
per inch in loom and 44 picks per inch 

in loom. ? 45s twill weave. l-10s 

cotton warp. l-8s cotton filling. 

68 ends per inch x 27 equals 1,836 
plus 32 equals 1,868 ends plus 5 per 
cent take-up equals 1,956 yards of 1- 
10s cotton warp equals 3.725 ounces. 

48 picks x 27% equals 1,308 yards. 
l-8s cotton filling equals 3.114 ounces. 

3.725 ounces warp. 
3.114 ounces filling. 



6.839 ounces from loom. 



6.839 ounces loom. 
5.185 ounces finished. 



1.654 ounces loss In napping. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 
Canton flannel, or rather the counts 
of yarns to make this class of cloth, 
consists of a low grade of cotton of 
about three-fourths to one inch in sta- 
ple, and the mills making Canton flan- 
nel belong to the first division of mills. 
The bales of raw stock are not sorted 



out as carefully as is the custom when 
fine yarns are to be made, but all the 
bales should be stamped to get the 
length of staple as near uniform as 
possible. Larger mixings are used for 
this class of goods than when fine 
goods are being made, because more 
cotton is used, due to a larger produc- 
tion being turned off at each process. 
The cotton is sometimes passed 
through a bale breaker, but more often 
is 

MIXED BY HAND, 

i. e., taken from the bale and broken 
into small bunches and thrown di- 
rectly into the mixing bin. The cotton 
is allowed to stand as long as possible 
to dry out and is then put through the 
opener. In some mills the waste from 
the comber and card is put into the 
mixings in very small proportions, but 
more generally only the good waste 
is put in. The speed of the beater 
should be 1,050 revolutions per minute, 
it being remembered that the lower 
grades of cotton are dirtier than the 
higher grades and longer stapled cot- 
ton. It may seem strange to some of 
our readers that the speed of the beat- 
er of the opener is 1,050 revolutions 
per minute for both low, medium and 
even high grades of cotton, but it must 
be remembered that the staples of the 
cottons differ and the speed of the 
beater really is based on so many 
blows or beats per minute; so that cot- 
ton having a staple of three-fourths 
of an inch receives twice as many beats 
per inch as cotton one and one-half 
inches in length, all other conditions 
remaining the same. The above not 
only applies to the beaters on the 
openers, but also to all the pickers. 
In these lessons it is taken for grant- 
ed that a two-bladed beater of the 
ridged type is used, and for a three- 
bladed beater, the speed should be 
less, or as two is to three. Special 
speeds should be used for other makes 
of beaters, such as the vertical, por- 
cupine and Kirschner beaters. Two 
processes of picking are used. The 
weight per yard of lap is 40 pounds 
or 16 ounces to the yard. The speed 
of the finisher beater is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute, and the finished lap 
weighs 39 pounds or 14% ounces to 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



397 



the yard. The bars under the beaters 
should not be too close together, so 
that the dirt and foreign matter in the 
cotton cannot drop through into the 
waste receptacle after it has been 
separated from the cotton, and the 
dirt, etc., should be thus removed at 
regular intervals, so as not to choke 
these beater bars and thus allow the 
dirt to pass through with the good cot- 
ton. This class of goods should be 
carded on coarse wire. The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 
should not exceed 100, and a draft of 
90 is much better, as the stock will be 
handled better. The speed of the beat- 
er should be 300 revolutions per min- 
ute and a 26-inch diameter doffer 
should be used when possible. The 
production of the card should be from 
900 to 1,000 pounds of sliver per week 
of 60 hours. Two processes of drawing 
are used, the speed of the front roll at 
each being 400 revolutions per minute, 
the weight of the sliver at the finisher 
being 70 grains per yard, six ends be- 
ing put up at the back. The hank rov- 
ing made at the slubber should be 
about .50, or, say, .55. This is made 
into 1.00 hank at the first intermedi- 
ate and into a 4.00 roving at the sec- 
ond intermediate. The 1.00 hank rov- 
ing is spun into a soft twisted 6-count 
cotton yarn in the spinning room, and 
the 4.00 is made into 20s soft twist 
yarn. A warp frame to make 6 s should 
have the following particulars: Gauge 
of frame 3 inches, diameter of ring 
2^4 inches, length of traverse 7 
inches, or even more than this length 
may be used. For a filling frame for 
20s, use 2% -inch gauge of frame, iy 2 - 
inch diameter of ring and 6% inches 
length of traverse. Remember that this 
class of goods requires a soft twist. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

The pieces are run through the nap- 
ping machines and the fibre well rais- 
ed, before the dyeing operation. 

The pieces are dyed in the jig ma- 
chine, or continuous dyeing machine, 
where the pieces are run over rollers, 
6-10 times through the dyeing liquor, 
and then passed through two squeeze 
rollers. In the continuous machine the 
nap is not laid as much as in the jig. 



The colors generally dyed are one 
dip direct colors, bright shades being 
mostly called for. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
One per cent tetrazo sky blue; 20> 
per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Two per cent tetrazo brown B. ; % 
per cent tetrazo yellow D. ; 25 per cent 
Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. 
PINK. 
One-half per cent diamine rose BD.; 
15 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

RED. 
Four per cent benzo purpurine 4 B.; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 
One-half per cent benzo fast violet 
R. ; 14 per cent benzo fast blue BN.; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

GREEN. 

Three per cent diamine green G. ; % 
per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

SCARLET. 

Four per cent diamine scarlet B.; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 
OLIVE. 
Two per cent benzo dark green GG.-; 
2 per cent chrysophenine; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 
ORANGE. 
Two per cent benzo fast orange S.; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

BLUE. 

Four per cent diamine brilliant blue 
G.; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 

ECRU. 

One-quarter per cent immedial yel- 
low D.; X A Per cent immedial cutch 
G.; 2 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 
cent soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 
SLATE. 

One-half per cent benzo fast black; 
y 2 per cent benzo fast blue BN.; 30 
per cent Glauber's salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 



398 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



MAROON. 

Three per cent diamine fast red F.; 
1 per cent diamine bordeaux B.; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

When the pieces are dyed, well rins- 
ed and dryed, they are run through 
the napping machine to finish the 
goods and raise the fibres. 
*-•-* 



DUCK 



Duck is a heavy-weight, - single 
cloth* fabric, made from all-cotton 
yarns. But one warp and one filling 
are necessary, and these are usually 
of coarse, two-ply yarns woven into a 



DEDBDBDa 

BaaoKona 
mamamam 
mamamama 
auamauam 

BDHGODBD 

amamamgm 

uamomama 

Design 



DOSODCBQ 
OBOOOSQQ 
■□ODBOOD 
Bi»wtog-m Di»f « 

□DBBDOM 



cloth having a high texture. Duck has 
a stiff, hard feel, which fact imparts 
to it the splendid wearing qualities for 
which it is popularly known as a sta- 
ple material. It is used principally in 
the manufacture of sails, tents, car 
curtains, etc., or for any other pur- 
pose requiring a good water-tight fab- 
ric, which will withstand rough usage. 
Duck is made 

IN A VARIETY OF GRADES 

weighing from 7 ounces to the yard, 
27 inches wide, to 25 1 ,4 ounces per 
yard, 60 inches wide. The lighter 
weights in this fabric are used exten- 
sively for awnings. These goods are 
either stripes or solid colors and are 
never plaided. 

The majority of these goods are 
made all white. 

Nearly all known textile colors are 
at times used in making color effects 
in this line, the most popular being 
dark brown and white, indigo blue and 
white, tan and white, tan and white 
twist and tan; all of which are fast 
colors. 

Duck, being a hard, stiff fabric, 
caused by using coarse yarn at high 
texture, calls for a heavier loom 
than that used for an ordinary cloth. 



The duck loom was built for this very 
purpose, and is entirely satisfactory, 
as it is a plain, single box cam loom 
each part being heavier than its cor- 
responding part in an ordinary light 
running plain loom. 

Duck is made also in light weights 
for use as an outing trousering for 
men in solid black; also in pale blue, 
ecru, pink, etc., for ladies' shirtwaist 
suits. 

To finish this fabric, it is taken from 
the loom and measured, then washed 
and sized, then dried and pressed. 

If a fancy, solid color is desired, the 
goods are dyed in the piece after the 
first washing. 

AWNING STRIPE DUCK 31" WIDE FIN- 
ISHED. 

Threads per inch, 50 finished. 
Picks per inch, 34 finished. 

61" X 7,000 grains 

■ = 6.72 warp. 

2.1 grs. X 36" X 840 standard 

Yarn is 2-ply, so it is 13.44/2 warp. 

85" X 7,000 grains 

= 10.64 filling. 

1.S5 grs. X 36" X 840 standard 

Warp shrinkage, from tests, 15%. 

Filling shrinkage, from tests, 6%. 

Reed width, 31" finished -s- .94 = 33" wide 

in reed. 
15 V 2 reed X 33" width = 512 dents. 
512 dents X 3 ends per dent = 1,536 ends 

in warp. 
1,536 ends -h (6.72 X 840) = .2721, warp 

weight without take-up. 
15% take-up in weaving. 
.2721 h- .85 = .3201, total warp weight per 

yard of woven cloth. 
34 picks X 33" reed width X 36'' 

= 1.122 yds. 

36" 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,122 -=- (10.64 X 840) = .1255, total filling 

weight per yard of cloth. 
.3201 + .1255 = .4456, total weight per 

yard. 
.4456 X 16 oz. per lb. = 7.13 oz. per yard. 

ARMY DUCK 28%" WIDE — 10 OZ. 
Threads per inch, 47 finished. 
Picks per inch. 38 finished. 
76" X 7,000 grains 

= 4.63 warp. 

3.S grs. X 36" X 840 standard 

Yarn is 3-ply, so it is 13.89/3 warp. 
100" X 7,000 grains 

= 6.81 filling. 

3.4 grs. X 36" X 840 standard 

Yarn is 2-ply, so it is 13.62/2 filling. 

Warp shrinkage, from tests, 18%. 

Filling shrinkage, from tests, 8%. 

Reed width, 28% -:- .92 = 31" wide In reed. 

14% reed X 31" width = 450 dents. 

450 dents X 3 ends per dent = 1,350 ends 

in warp. 
1,350 ends -4- (4.63 X 840) = .3470, warp 

weight without take-up. 
18% take-up in weaving. 
.3470 h- .82 -= .4232, total warp weight per 

yard of cloth. 
38 picks X 31" reed width X 36" 

= 1,178 yds. 

36" 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



399 



of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,178 -H (6.81 X 840) = .2059, total filling 

weight per yard of cloth. 
.4232 + .2059 = .6291, total weight per yard. 
.6291 X 16 oz. per lb. = 10.06 oz. per yard. 

HEAVY DUCK, 38" WIDE. 

12 oz. at 28%" wide. 
16 oz. at 38" wide. 
21 oz. at 50" wide. 
25% oz. at 60" wide. 
Threads per inch, 44 finished. 
Picks per inch, 32 finished. 
78" X 7,000 grains 

= 4.69 warp. 

3.85 grs. X 36" X 840 standard 
Yarn is 3-ply, so it is 14.07/3 warp. 
84" X 7,000 grains 

= 3.53 filling. 

5.5 grs. X 36" X 840 standard 

Yarn is 4-ply, so it is 14.12/4 filling. 

Warp shrinkage, from tests, 25%. 

Pilling shrinkage, from tests, 5%. 

Reed width = 3S" -h .95 = 40" wide in reed. 

14 reed X 40" width = 560 dents. 

560 dents X 3 ends per dent = 1,680 ends 

in warp. 
1,680 ends -4- (4.69 X 840) = .4264, warp 

weight without take-up. 
25% take-up in weaving. 
.4264 -r- .75 = .5685, total weight of warp 

per yard of cloth. 
32 picks X 40" reed width X 36" 

= 1,280 yds. 

3 6" 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
1,280 -+- (3.53 X 840) = .4317, total weight 

of filling per yard of cloth. 
.56S5 + .4317 = 1.0002, total weight per 

yard. 
1.0002 X 16 oz. per lb. = 16.003 oz. per 

yard. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Duck is made from various grades 
of raw cotton, according to the use to 
which it is going to be applied. Even 
Sea Island cotton of the longest sta- 
ple has been used to make duck cloth, 
but this is the exception rather than 
the rule. When the longer and higher 
grades of raw stock are employed, the 
cloth made is generally used for sail, 
and the Sea Island cotton was utilized 
to make into duck for one of the 
yachts which raced for the interna- 
tional cup. For the average use, how- 
ever, 

THE STOCK USED 

is of about one-inch staple and of a 
medium low grade of cotton. The 
class of mills making duck belongs to 
the first division of mills, as given in 
a previous lesson. The cotton is put 
through a bale breaker and from here 
is passed on to the mixing bin. At 
this bin good waste is mixed in, and 
sometimes, in the lower classes of 
ducking, comber and card waste are 



mixed in in small quantities. When 
waste is mixed with raw stock, it is 
mingled in certain fixed proportions, 
and should not be done in a haphazard 
way, because waste always makes the 
mixture give more or less trouble 
while in the earlier processes of han- 
dling than is the case when cotton 
is used by itself. The cotton, after be- 
ing mixed, is allowed to stand as long 
as possible before using for reasons 
already given in previous lessons, and 
then is run through an opener and twe 
processes of picks. As the lower 
grades of cotton are generally dirtier 
than the higher grades, a higher 
speed of the beater is required, 
so that the speed of the opener should 
be about 1,100 revolutions per minute 
while the speed of the breaker picker 
should be at least 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, and the speed of the beater 
of the finisher picker should be 1,450 
revolutions per minute, or about 42 
beats per inch of stock. 

The lap at the breakers should 
weigh at least 40 pounds or 16 ounces 
to the yard, while at the finisher pick 
er the lap should weigh 39 pounds or 
about 15 ounces to the yard. If waste 
is used in the mixture, generally a 
great deal of trouble is found from 
what is called licking, i. e., where the 
lap does not unroll as it should, but 
layers adhere to one another. If the 
lap is not fixed it will be seen thai 

UNEVEN YARN WILL RESULT. 

There are various causes for laps 
licking, two of the principal ones be- 
ing the presence of too much waste in 
the mixture, the remedy for which is 
obvious; and second, that the current 
of air in the picker is not properly di- 
rected so that the greater part, if not 
all, of the cotton, after it has passed the 
beater, is not blown as it should be 
onto the top cage, but the air is so 
directed that the cotton falls on both 
cages and a split in the lap is bound to 
occur and cause licking at the next 
process. Licking is always the cause 
of a great deal of trouble and should 
be stopped as quickly as possible. The 
lap is passed onto the card, which, for 
this class of goods, is provided with a 
heavy wire. The draft of the card 
should be about 90 to 100. The sliver 



400 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



should weigh at least 65 grains to the 
yard and the production should be as 
large as possible, a good average 
ranging from 900 to 1,000 pounds per 
week. Cards should be stripped on 
this class of goods three times a day, 
and some overseers advocate four 
times a day, but this extra stripping is 
to be questioned as to advisability. 
The speed of the licker-in for this class 
of goods is 300 revolutions per minute. 
The cotton sliver is passed through 
three processes of drawing, the weight 
of the finished slivers being 70 grains. 
From here it is passed to the slubber 
and made into .55 hank roving. From 
here it is passed through the first in- 



Dyeing Particulars. 

FOR AWNING DUCKS. 

As the colors for this fabric must 
be as fast as possible to sunlight and 
rain, so the color will not fade or run 
into the white stripes, only absolutely 
fast colors are dyed. The yarn is gen- 
erally dyed in the warp. 

INDIGO BLUE. 

Indigo blue has been dyed for these 
goods until recently, but immedial 
blues have been found to withstand 
exposure even better than indigo. 

Four and one-half per cent imme- 
dial indone B. ; 4y 2 per cent immedial 
indone R. ; 9 per cent sulphide sodium; 




Duck. 



termediate and made into 1.10 hank 
and onto the second intermediate and 
made into 3.00 hank. From here it is 
passed to the spinning room. For awn- 
ing stripes, this three-hank roving is 
made into 12s warp and 20s filling, and 
for coarser ducking into 12s warp and 
18s filling. Good specifications for a 
filling ring frame are as follows: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 
6y 2 inches; and for a warp ring frame, 
gauge of frame, 3 inches; diameter of 
ring, 25 inches; traverse, 7 inches. 
The yarn is then taken to the twister 
and doubled as required. 



3 per cent soda, and 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

TURKEY RED OIL. 
(Time About 3 Days) 

First, a thorough bleaching process. 

Second, the material is worked in a 
bath of aluminum acetate 9 degrees 
Tw. This is a mordanting process. In 
place of the material named basic alu- 
minum sulphate at 9 degrees Tw. can 
be used. The material is wrung out and 
dried at 120 degrees F. for 24 hours. 

Third, material is worked until thor- 
oughly impregnated in a bath made 
up of Turkey red oil and 9 parts 
water. It is then wrung out and dried 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



401 



at 145 degrees P. for 12 hours. 

Fourth, this process is the same as 
second. 

Fifth, the material is now worked in 
a bath made up with one-half part cal- 
cium carbonate and 100 parts water. 
It is worked for about one-half hour 
at 95 degrees F., and then washed well 
in clean water. 

Sixth, the material is now dyed in a 
bath containing from 6 to 15 per cent 
of alizarine (also 5 parts of lime, per 
100,000 of water). The material is en- 
tered into bath cold, then worked for 
20 minutes and the temperature is 
slowly raised to 145 degrees F. and 
the process continued for 1 hour. The 
material is then washed and the water 
extracted. 

Seventh, this operation is the same 
as third. 

Eighth, this process consists of 
steaming the material for 2 hours at 
10 degrees pressure and then washing 
thoroughly. 

Ninth, the material is boiled for 
about % of an hour in a soap solution 
containing one part of soap in 200 
parts of water. It is afterward dried 
and the process is completed. 

BUFF. 

Pass through solution 10 gallons 
water, one pint nitrate iron, 33 degrees 
Tw., squeeze, pass through solution 10 
gallons water, one pint caustic soda, 
and rinse. Repeat operation until 
shade is dark enough; rinse well. 
CHROME YELLOW. 

Pass through solution 10 gallons 
water, one pound white sugar lead, 
squeeze, pass through solution 10 gal- 
lons water, one pound bichrome, four 
pounds common salt; rinse well. 
CHROME ORANGE. 

Pass through solution of sugar lead, 
24 degrees Tw., squeeze. Pass through 
hot lime water, squeeze, chrome, two 
ounces to gallon boiling, squeeze; run 
through hot lime water and rinse. 
LIGHT BROWN. 

Four per cent immedial cutch C; 
4 per cent immedial brown B.; 8 per 
cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda; 
30 per cent Glauber's; rinse, after- 
treated to make color much faster; 2 



per cent blue stone; 2 per cent 
chrome; 3 per cent acetic acid; rinse 
and soap. 

DARK BROWN. 

Six per cent immedial cutch G. ; 6 
per cent immedial brown B.; V^ per 
cent immedial black NR.; 10 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda; 30 
per cent Glauber's; rinse, after-treat: 
2 per cent blue stone; 2 per cent 
chrome; 3 per cent ? :etic acid; rinse 
and soap. 

MAROON. 

Six per cent immedial maroon B.; 6 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda; 30 per cent Glauber's; rinse, 
after-treat: 1 per cent blue stone; 1 
per cent chrome; 3 per cent acetic 
acid; rinse and soap. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

Three per cent immedial indone B.; 
2 per cent immedial yellow D.; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda; 
25 per cent Glauber's; after-treat: 3 
per cent blue stone; 3 per cent 
chrome; 3 per cent acetic acid. 
DARK GREEN. 

Eight per cent katigen indigo B.; 4 
per cent katigen chrome brown 5 G. ; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda; 25 per cent Glauber's; after- 
treat: 3 per cent blue stone; 3 per cent 
chrome; 3 per cent acetic acid; rinse 
and soap. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen per cent immedial black 
NN.; 13 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 
per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's; 
rinse, after-treat: 3 per cent blue 
stone; 3 per cent chrome; 3 per cent 
acetic acid; rinse and soap. 
DARK SLATE. 

Three per cent immedial black V. 
Ex.; 3 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 
cent soda; 20 per cent Glauber's; 
rinse, after-treat: 1 per cent blue 
stone; 1 per cent chrome; 2 per cent 
acetic acid; rinse and soap. 
ARMY DUCK. 

Army duck has been always dyed 
the old, reliable cutch and chrome 
brown. First, pass through a boiling 
solution of cutch logwood and fustic or 
cutch alone, and then through a solu- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tion of boiling chrome and sometimes 
a weak solution of nitrate of iron for 
after-treatment; rinse and soap. 

Army duck can be dyed with sul- 
phur colors: 5 per cent immedial cutch 
O.; 1 per cent immedial brown RR. ; 
rinse and treat: iy 2 per cent blue 
stone; 2 per cent chrome; rinse and 
soap. 



Four square inches equals 9.25 
grain. 27x36 equals 972x92 equals 8,- 



STRIPES— HICKORY STRIPES 

This is an all-cotton, light-weight 
fabric, averaging about five ounces per 
yard finished. In appearance it re- 
sembles ticking, although it is of lower 
texture and has a softer feel, due to 
the process of finishing. It is al- 
ways woven with a_? regular 45 de- 
grees right-hand twill (warp effect) 
and in two colors, blue and white or 
brown and white in the warp and all 
white filling, thus forming warp stripe 
patterns. 

It is used in the rural mountain dis- 
tricts of a few of the middle and 
southern states as a material for 
men's pants and shirts, as these two 
garments constitute about all the 
clothing necessary in such sections 
for most all seasons of the year. It is 

A TOUGH, PLIABLE FABRIC, 
having good wearing qualities and on 
the principle of economy is well 
adapted to the needs of the poorer 
white laboring class of the South. 

This fabric is made of regular cot- 
ton yarns, l-14s and l-16s warp and 
filling, and is woven to finish about 27 
inches in width. 

It can be woven on any plain 
loom, and is usually drawn in on cot- 
ton harness, as these are cheaper in 
the estimation ox the southern cotton 
manufacturer, r.s he can use up old 
stock in the spanning of cotton harness 
cord, and in 1 ais manner, to a certain 
extent, creatj a by-product, as against 
the cost of equipping the plant with 
wire heddles and other necessary 
findings — harness rods, frames, etc. 

To finish hickory stripe, the cloth is 
taken from the loom and measured, 
then it is sheared, sized and pressed, 
it is then rolled or lapped and is ready 
to pack and ship. 



aaaana 

■BdBHC 
BL.HBl.~V 
□■■OKI 
BBQS~*u 

■aiana 



Dnanna 

DBODBQ 

maamaa 

Drawing-io 
Draft 

DODBBB 
■BBQQD 
Roed Plan 

991.00 divided by 4 equals 2,247.75 di- 
vided by 437.5 equals 5.137 ounces per 
yard. 

15 pieces blue warp yarn times 4 
inches equals 60 inches equals one 
grain. 60x7,000 equals 420,000 divided 
by .1 equals 4,200,000 divided by 36 
equals 116.666 divided by 840 equals 
l-14s cotton. 15 pieces white warp 
yarn times 4 inches equals 60 inches 
equals .1 grain. 15 pieces white filling 
yarn times 4 inches equals 60 inches 
equals .9 grains. 60x7,000 equals 420,- 
000 divided by .9 equals 466,666 divid- 

10% contraction in width in weaving. 
5% take-up in length in weaving. 
6 2-3% shrinkage in length in finishing. 
0% size on warp. 

WARP PATTERN. 
6 Blue. 
3 White. 
3 Blue. 
3 White. 

15 ends per repeat. 

ed by 36 equals 12,962.96 divided by 
840 equals l-14s cotton. 

Reed 800—3 ends per dent, 30 
inches in reed, including selvage, 27 
inches finished. Filling — all white, 74 
ends per inch finished and 60 picks 
per inch finished equals 66 ends 
per inch loom, 56 picks per inch loom. 

74 ends per inch times 27 inches 
equals 1,998 ends plus 24 selvage 
equals 2,022 ends; 1,998 divided by 15 
equals 133 repeats plus 3 ends. 

9 blue ends per pattern times 133 
equals 1,197 plus 3 equals 1,200 blue 
ends. 6 white ends per pattern times 
133 equals 798 white ends, 24 white 
ends selvage. 

1,200 blue ends + 5% take-up = 

1,203 yards 1-14 cot = 1.718 oz. 

798 white ends + 5% take-up = 

840 yards 1-14 cot = 1.142 oz. 

24 white selvage = '25.26 yards 

1-14 cot = .034 oz. 

56 picks white filling X 30 = 1,680 

yards 1-14 cot = 2,286 oz. 

Per yard 6.179 oz. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



403 



Finish equals sizing and pressing 
weave - — j warp effect 45 degrees 
twill. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BLUE. 

Dye in the warp — iy 2 per cent im- 
medial indone 3B., 4 per cent imme- 
dial indone B., 4 per cent sodium sul- 
phide, 3 per cent soda, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, rinse well. 

DARK SLATE. 
4 per cent immedial black NR., 4 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda, 
20 per cent Glauber's, rinse well. 

BLACK. 
1 per cent katigen black SW., 15 
per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent 
soda, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well. 
DARK BROWN. 
15 per cent katigen brown V., 15 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda. 
30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well; 
starching, one gallon water, one-half 
pound cornstarch, mix cold, boil one 
hour, run through starch mangle and 
dry, give a light calendering. 
+-+-+ 



TICKING 



Ticking is a single cloth, of either 
medium or heavy weight, and is com- 
posed of single cotton yarns from 
l-14s to l-22s in warp and filling or 
combination of both, such as 18s warp 
and 20 filling. It is a good, stout cloth, 
having fine wearing qualities, and is 
used principally for making bed ticks 
and pillow and bolster cases. It is 
generally made with what is known as 

a bed-tick weave or 2 or ■ twill, 

i i ' 

either right or left handed 45s twill 
broken or herring-bone. It can be 
woven in any power loom, but is best 
adapted to and most always woven in 
the 

PLAIN SINGLE BOX LOOMS. 

This fabric is quite often woven 
upon an automatic loom, and in the 
future it undoubtedly will be noted 
that more of these looms are being 
used for the making of ordinary fab- 



rics of which ticking is one of the 
most staple. The reason automatic 
looms have an advantage on such 
cloths is that a much greater number 
of looms per weaver can be operated, 
and the cost for weaving be quite rad- 
ically reduced. With simple weaves 
and medium or heavy yarns the auto- 
matic loom usually will show quite a 
little advantage. 

Ticking belongs to the family of stiff, 
hard faced cotton fabrics. This fea- 
ture is created by using twill weaves 
(warp effect) and these weaves permit 
of the use of a more than ordimry 
high warp texture. For instance, take 
— j twill: In the weave there are 

interlacings of each warp thread in ev- 
ery four picks of filling, thus allow- 
ing ends to lie closely togeth r — 
hence permitting an increase in ends 
per inch. 

These goods are usually made in 
two colored warp patterns — dark blue 
and white, red and white. 
WHITE FILLING USED WHOLLY. 

Fast colors should be used in warp, 
as bed-ticks are sometimes ripped 
open and the cloth washed. In this 
case the light and air renew the col- 
oring on the yarns. 



Kl^lllCaill .BIILDIirill.llCIIILI 
BBBOaBB^aa^aBa.llftB ■■■. ■■■■._■■■' 

dbbbqbbbbqbbbcbbbcbbbibbcbbbgbbb 
bobbbobbqbbbubbblbbbobbbbqbbbobb 



Design and Weave. 

nonBnnnBnnBnDDBDDnanDnBDnnnanDDB 

DDBDnnBnDDDBDnDaDDnBDOOBDDBDDDBa 
DBanDBDDBnDOBDnDBDDDBDnDnBDnDBDD 
BaaQBDnanB^DDBCQnBDnDBDDBUDDBDDa 



Drawing-in Draft. 



Reed Plan. 



One feature which is worth men- 
tioning in regard to ticking and other 
similar lines is that they are to-day 
being stock-dyed in increasing quan- 
tities. This method consists of dyeing 
the cotton, or bleaching it, as the case 
may be, in the raw state and then 
carding, drawing and spinning just as 
if a grey fabric were to be made. This 
results in decided savings in the cost 
of manufacture, and probably no new 
plant would be erected except on the 



404 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



above basis. Certain of the fast col- 
ors which have been developed in re- 
cent years are most successful when 
the cotton is dyed in the raw state, 
and this fact, together with economy 
in manipulation, is the reason why 
stock-dyeing has been used. There is 
another advantage when coarse yarns 
are being dyed in the raw stock, for 
by this method the yarn is colored to 
the center, whereas in other methods 
penetration is seldom .thorough. 

Ticking is woven with from 60 to 
84 ends and picks per inch in the 
loom, according to grade required. The 
greater the number of warp threads 
the stouter the fabric in proportion to 
counts of yarns used. 

To finish these goods, they are 
brushed and sheared to remove all 
lumps and foreign substances from the 
face of the cloth. Then the cloth is 
sized and calendered, which acts in 
the same manner as a hot press, after 
which the cloth is lapped or rolled into 
bolts, then stitched, and is ready to 
pack and ship. 

CONSTRUCTION OF TICKING. 
Reed 725 — 33 inches, 4 ends per 
dent. l-16s warp, l-20s filling, 74 
picks; 12y 2 per cent take-up in weav- 
ing; 10 per cent size on warp, 7 per 
cent size of cloth in finish; 3 — - her- 
ring-bone twill weave; finish equals 
31% inches, and includes brushing, 
shearing, sizing and calendering. 

WARP PATTERN. 
16 White. 
2 Blue. 
2 White. 
8 Blue. 
2 White. 
2 Blue. 
1 square in. = 2.9 grains. 

31% times 36 equals 1,134 square 
inches times 2.9 equals 3,288.6 grains 
divided by 437.5 equals 7.51 ounces. 

18 pieces warp yarn, 2 inches, equals 
36 inches equals .55 grains; 36 x 7,000 
equals 252.000 divided by .55 equals 
45,818 divided by 36 equals 12,727 di- 
vided by 840 equals 1-I6s warp yarn. 

20 pieces filling yarn, iy 2 inches, 
equals 30 inches equals .34 grains. 

30 x 7,000 equals 210,000 divided by 
.34 equals 617,644 divided by 36 equals 
17,156 divided by 840 equals l-20s fill- 
ing yarn. 



92 ends per inch finished equals 86 
in reed. 

78 picks per inch finished equals 74 
in loom. 

92 x 31% equals 2,898 plus 24 equals 
2,922 ends. 

1,473 ends white equals 12% per cent 
take-up equals 1,683 yards. 

l-16s cotton warp equals 2 ounces. 

1,449 ends blue equals 12*4 per cent 
take-up equals 1,656 yards. 

l-16s cotton warp equals 1.97 ounces 
plus 22 per cent increase by dyeing 
equals 2.22 ounces. 

White warp yarn equals 2 ounces 
plus blue warp yarn equals 4.22 
ounces plus 10 per cent size equals 
4.64 ounces. 

78 picks x 31% equals 2,457 yards 
l-20s filling equals 2.34 ounces. 

Warp weight equals 4.64 ounces plus 
filling weight equals 2.34 ounces plus 
7 per cent size in finishing equals 7.50. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns used in ticking are made 
in mills of the first division, as given 
in a previous article. The length of 
the raw stock used varies in different 
mills according to the grade of tick- 
ing to be made, but is generally % to 
1| inches in length. This does not 
mean that raw stock of from % to IS 
inches is used in the same mixing, but 
that the mixing is made up of stock of 
uniform length. 

THE MIXINGS 
for this class of goods are generally 
made by hand and the bins should be 
made as large as possible, so as to 
accommodate large mixings. It would 
be better to have two large bins in- 
stead of one, so that one lot of raw 
stock could be opened and dried out 
while feeding the machines from the 
other bin. On this class of goods 
comber waste is used in some mills, 
and the cut-roving waste is also mix- 
ed, as has been before stated. An 
opener and 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 
are used, and the lap should be made 
as heavy as possible without, of 
course, making it so heavy that it will 
bring up the cards and finisher picker. 
Keep the hopper of the opener as full 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



405 



as possible, and you will find that an 
evener lap will be made. The speed 
of the fan of the opener should be 
1,100 revolutions per minute. The 
speed of the beater (of a two-bladed, 
rigid type) should be at least 15,000 
revolutions per minute, and the weight 
of lap about 40 pounds or 20 ounces in 
weight per yard. The lap is put up at 
the breaker and doubled four into one 
and delivered so as to weigh 14% 
ounces per yard, or about 39 pounds 
for the whole lap. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 

on this machine should be 1,450 revo- 
lutions per minute. The beats per 
inch that the cotton would receive 




every month, having the grinding roll- 
ers on for at least a half a day. Of 
course, grinding means loss of pro- 
duction, but it has to be done; other- 
wise, bad work will result, and if you 
keep your wire sharp you will find 
that you will have less trouble with 
your cards and a great deal less kick- 
ing on account of poor work. 

THE SETTINGS 

that should be used for this class of 
goods have been given in a previous 
lesson. The card sliver should be put 
through two processes of drawing, the 
sliver weighing 75 grains per yard at 
the finisher drawing frame. Remem- 
ber never to draw more than you 



■^ 




Ticking. 



would be about 42. See that all your 
drafts on the picker are properly reg- 
ulated, so that a lap will be obtained 
that will not split. Of course, this is 
not the only reason that makes a lap 
split, but it is one of the principal 
ones. Another cause for split laps is 
found in putting too much waste in 
the mixing. The lap is then put up at 
the card which should be provided 
with coarse wire fillet. The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 
should not exceed 100. The weight of 
the sliver should be about 65 grains 
per yard and the production about 1,- 
000 pounds per week of 60 hours. The 
cards should be ground at least once 



double. The sliver is passed through 
the slubber and the hank roving 
should be about .40. Set the rolls for 
%-inch stock on this machine as fol- 
lows: Front to middle, li inches; mid- 
dle to back, 2 inches. Two processes 
of fly frames should be used, the hank 
roving being made at the first inter- 
mediate about 1.40, and at the second 
from 3 to 3".40. 

THE SPINNING. 
This roving is then taken to the 
spinning room, where it is spun into 
the required count. For 16s the fol- 
lowing would be a good equipment for 
a warp frame: gauge of spindle, three 
inches; diameter of ring, two inches; 



406 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



length of traverse, seven inches, and 
for a filling frame: gauge of spindle, 
2% inches; diameter of ring, iy 2 
inches, and length of traverse, from 
6 1 / £ to 61 inches, according to twist 
put in; the more twist the more length 
of traverse may be used. The produc- 
tion for a spinning frame for 16s, with 
the speed of front roll 139 revolutions 
per minute, twist 19 and revolutions 
of spindles 8,300, would be about 3.15 
pounds per spindle per week. For a 
filling frame for 16s, with front roll 
speed of 159 revolutions per minute, 
twist per inch 13, speed of spindles 
6,500 revolutions per minute, the pro- 
duction would be about 3.34 pounds 
per spindle per week. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Formerly ticking had only blue 
stripes dyed indigo blue. For some 
time a variety of colors have been 
introduced, and now many colors are 
used, some with narrow stripes mixed 
with broad stripes, having from three 
to five or more different colors in the 
same pattern. 

BLUE. 

Dyed with indigo or one of the sul- 
phur blues. 

Eight per cent pyrogene indigo; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent common salt. 

This color can be after-treated with 
1% per cent chrome; \y 2 per cent cop- 
per sulphate; 3 per cent acetic acid, 
125 degrees F. 

ECRU. 

One-quarter per cent tetrazo cutch 
brown; 1 per cent tetrazo black N.; 2 
per cent soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Three per cent Thion brown G.; 2 
per cent soda; 3 per cent sulphide 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
Three-fourths per cent Thion black 
B.; \y 2 per cent sal soda; 1 per cent 
sulphide soda; 10 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

RED. 
Three per cent tetrazo red 4 B.; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 



DARK BROWN. 

One and one-quarter per cent Thion 
black B.; 5 per cent Thion brown G.; 
3 per cent sal soda; 6 per cent sul- 
phide soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT BRONZE. 

One-quarter per cent tetrazo 
chlorine yellow GG. ; % per cent tet- 
razo black N.; % per cent tetrazo 
brown R. ; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 per 
cent Glauber's salt. 

DRAB. 

One-eighth per cent benzo fast 
black; % per cert chloramine yellow 
M.; 1-;16 per cent benzo fast red GL. 
LIGHT OLIVE. 

One-half per cent benzo dark green 
GG. ; y 2 per cent chrysophenine. 
DARK OLIVE. 

Four per cent benzo dark green GG. ; 
2 per cent chrysophenine. The above 
three colors are each dyed with 20 
per cent Glauber's salt and 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

DARK SLATE. 

Two and one-quarter per cent benzo 
fast black; J per cent benzo fast blue 
BN. ; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

WINE. 

Four per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 
BS.; 1 per cent benzo fast violet R.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT FAWN. 

One-half per cent diamine brown 
M.; % per cent diamine brown 3 G.; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

STEEL. 

One-half per cent diamine steel blue 
L. ; y 2 per cent diamine black B. H.; 
% per cent diamine fast yellow 
B.; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 



OSNABURG 

Osnaburg is a coarse, single cloth 
composed of all-cotton yarns, l-16s, 
l-18s, l-20s, warp and filling, and is 
made in warp stripe patterns and in 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



407 



checks, the colors invariably being in- 
digo blue and white or dark brown 
and white. 

It is manufactured into overalls and 
jumpers or mock shirts, and is used in 
the South by the colored farm and 
plantation laborers. It is a strong fab- 
ric, having 

EXCELLENT WEARING QUALITIES, 
and is especially adapted to any pur- 







The check patterns are made on any 
loom having a box motion attached. 

In arranging check or plaid pat- 
terns the strong, long or broad way 
of the pattern indicates the filling and 
the greatest number of threads per 
inch indicate the warp, and to square 
a check or plaid pattern means to 
practically produce the same color ef- 
fect in the filling as in the warp. 
Hence the filling pattern (total num- 
ber of picks) 

MUST BE REDUCED 

so as to create a check or plaid pat- 
tern in which the filling arrangement 
is just noticeably longer in effect than 
in the warp pattern, the supposition 
being that as checks or plaids are 
worn they are always observed at an 
angle of several degrees, thereby in 
a sense overcoming any reasonable ex- 
cess in the length of filling pattern, 
as compared with that of the warp. 

Osnaburg is sometimes sized in the 
finishing, and at other times is not, 
this point being optional with the 
manufacturer in accordance with the 
purpose for which the cloth is intend- 
ed to be used. Generally, it is taken 
from the loom, measured, run tnrough 
the brusher, and after being lapped or 
rolled is pressed and put in the case 
and shipped. 



Osnaburg. 

pose wherein it must sustain rough 
usage. It is occasionally substituted 
for canvas or duck in making awnings 
for back porches in northern cities. In 
this case the stripe patterns are used. 
The check patterns, "produced by 
using the same pattern in warp and 
filling," are usually broad effects, be- 
longing, in fact, to the plaid order of 
patterns. These checks measure from 
one to two inches either way. 

WOVEN WITH A PLAIN LOOM. 

Osnaburg is always woven with a 
plain weave — ;, and in the stripe 
patterns the stripe is made with warp, 
all white filling being used. This line 
can be woven on any plain sheeting 
loom as it requires but one filling box. 



Construction — 30-inch Finish. 

Reed, 900 — 33% inches in reed, in- 
cluding 16 ends selvage, two ends per 
dent; l-16s warp and filling; 46 picks 
per inch filling; 10 per cent take-up; 
1,696 plus 16 equals 1,712 ends in 
warp. 1,696 divided by 80 equals 21 
patterns plus 16 ends plus selvage. 

WARP PATTERN. 
36 blue 
20 white 

4 blue 
20 white 

80 



- Filling same. 



40 ends blue per pattern x 21 equals 
840 plus 16 equals 856 ends blue; 40 
ends white per pattern x 21 equals 840 
plus 16 equals 856 ends white; 46 picks 
x 331 equals 1,752 yards filling equal? 
876 yards blue, 876 yards white. 



408 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



856 ends blue + 10% take-up = 951 yards l-16s = 1.135 ounces! War _ 

856 ends white + 10% take-up = 951 yards l-16s = 1.135 ounces J **-"*>• 

876 yards l-16s = 1.043 ounces! „,.,„„„ 

876 yards l-16s = 1.043 ounces J * luln e- 



Brush and press. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

As the cloth under description in 
this issue is made and used in the 
South, it is to a great extent made only 
in southern mills, and the machines 
required to produce this class of yarns 
belong to the first division of mills 
previously given, i. e., the mills mak- 
ing low and medium count yarns. The 
counts of the yarn required to make 
this class of goods vary from l-14s to 
l-20s warp and filling, but for this 
article we will assume the warp and 
filling yarns to be l-20s. These yarns 
are made from a short staple low- 
grade cotton of about %-inch staple. 

THE MIXINGS 

should be as large as possible, and the 
mixing is generally done by hand in 
southern mills. It is run through 2 
processes of picking and an opener 
and waste is sometimes used in the 
mixture, i. e., card strips and comber 
waste (when it is possible to obtain 
it). Too much waste should not be 
used because of the trouble that it 
gives on the machines of the card 
room, such as licking, etc. 

THE HOPPER 

should be kept as full as possible, so 
that the amount of cotton fed to the 
opener will be as uniform as possible. 
It will be understood that if the hop- 
per is allowed to get almost empty be- 
fore filling it up the lifting apron of 
the hopper will not carry or lift as 
much cotton on its spikes and often- 
times there will be little or no cotton 
presented to the evener roller. This is 
sure to produce an uneven lap at the 
front of the breaker picker. If on the 
other hand the hopper is always kept 
full of cotton the lifting apron will al- 
ways have a surplus of cotton on it, 
this surplus being struck off by the 
evener and dropped back into the hop- 
per again. It will thus be seen that 
to keep the hopper more than 



4.356 ounces. 

half full all the time is one 
of the most important points 
of the picker room, because, if you 
have an uneven lap to start with, you 
will have to make the succeeding ma- 
chines overwork to obtain an even 
yarn. The speeds of the various parts 
of the picker should be about the same 
as given in the last article and the 
weight of the finished lap should be at 
least 39 pounds at the finisher picker. 
Always keep laps enough in the card 
room so that, if an accident happens 
to the picking machinery, the cards 
will not be stopped for laps. Keep at 
least 10 per cent ahead. 

The wire fillet used on the cards 
should be coarse, that used on the cyl- 
inder being 

ONE NUMBER COARSER 

than that used on the doffer and flats. 
A great many mills in the South use 
No. 33 wire on the cylinder and No. 
34 or No. 35 on the doffer and flats. 
On this class of goods use as large a 
diameter doffer as possible, either a 
26 or 27 inch. Grind cards often and 
keep top flats sharp, because if the 
flats are dull, good carding cannot be 
obtained. The draft of the card for 
this class of goods should not exceed 
100. The speed of the licker-in should 
be at least 350 revolutions per minute. 
The 

WEIGHT OF SLIVER 

at front should be about 65 grains per 
yard. The sliver is put through two 
processes of drawing, • the weight of 
sliver at the front of the finishing be- 
ing about 70 grains per yard. The set- 
tings of the drawing frame rolls should 
be as follows: for %-inch stock, front 
to second roll, 1% inches; second to 
third, 1% inches; third to back, 1% 
to 2 inches. The slubber roving should 
be .50 hank. 

Two processes of fly frames are 
used, the hank roving at the first in- 
termediate being 1.50 and at the sec- 
and 4.00 hank. Always look out for 
bunches at the fly frames and be sure 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



409 



that your steel rolls are set to the 
best advantage. Keep your 

TOP LEATHER ROLLS 
in perfect condition, and do not run 
one that is cut, bruised, uneven or 
SanneTed. See that the traverse 
euides are all working so as not to 
Sale channeled rolls. The cotton rov- 
ing is taken to the ring spinning rooai 
and here made into the required count 
of yarn. The following are good par- 
Sculars to be used on 20s warp and 
filling on. spinning frames: warp 
gauge of spindle 2% inches; diameter 
5? riSg 1% inches, length of traverse 
6% inches; for filling, gauge of spin- 
dle n inches, diameter of rmg 1% 
inches- length of traverse 6V 2 incnes, 
speed of spindles 7,250 revolutions per 
mTnute Use any of the best spindles 
on the spinning frame. The yarn is 
taken to the spooler wo", spooled 
and then run on a warp beam, thence 
to the slasher where it is sized and 
then is ready for weaving unless the 
yarn has to be dyed before being _w 
ven as in the present article. Then 
the method differs somewhat. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
Light blue is dyed with the ordinary 
indigo blue vat, but as sulphur blues 
are faster to exposure and washing 
they are mostly dyed. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
1 per cent immedial indone 3B., V2 
per cent immedial indone B., 2 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda, 
20 per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BROWN. 
4 per cent immedial cutch O., 6 per 
cent immedial brown A., % per cent 
immedial black NG., 10 per cent so- 
dium sulphide, 3 per cent soda, 30 per 
cent Glauber's. 

SLATE. 
1U per cent katigen black SW., 2 
per cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent 
soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. 
RED. 



LIGHT ORANGE. 
2 per cent immedial orange C, 2 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda, 
20 per cent Glauber's. 
DRAB. 
1 per cent immedial black NG., 1 per 
cent immedial brown A., 2 per cent so- 
dium sulphide, 30 per cent Glaubers, 
3 per cent soda. 



SHEETING 



5 per cent benzo fast red 4 BS., 3 
per cent sal soda, 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 



<*heetinK is a light-weight, single 
cloth, composed of all-cotton yarns, 
from l-18s to l-40s warp and filling, 
standard goods weighing 2% to .6 yards 
per pound. It is sold in both the gray 
and bleached state, the bleaching be- 
ing done after the cloth is woven. 

Sheeting is never made in _ colors or 
patterns, but always in solid bleach- 
ed or unbleached effects, and is woven 
on any and all single box looms, cot- 
ton harnesses being used in most 

1 a Automatic looms have been used in 
increasing quantities for the produc- 
tion of all kinds of sheeting fabrics. 
Most of these cloths contain rather 
coarse yarns, and are made with a 
plain weave, and this is the field in 
which automatic looms show their 
greatest savings. In some cases the 
automatic loom will contain a hopper 
in which quite a number of filing bob- 
bins are placed and in other cases a 
magazine of shuttles will be noted. In 
the first case the bobbin changes 
whenever the filling breaks, or runs 
out while in the second instance the 
entire shuttle is changed. As a gen- 
eral thing, manufacturers in the 
southern states have 
ADOPTED THE AUTOMATIC LOOM 
relatively much faster than man- 
ufacturers in the northern states 
mainly because mills in the 
South are newer and could install 
more up-to-date machinery when be- 
ing built. To-day's prices for many 
tvpes of sheetings and print cloths are 
being made upon an automatic loom 
basis, and for this reason some man- 
ufacturers are to-day finding it nard to 
regularly obtain a reasonable profit, it 
would not be surprising if such man- 



410 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ufacturers would ultimately be forced 
into installing such machinery if they 
are to receive a profit. The range of 
fabrics possible upon these looms has 
widened greatly during the past five 
years, and many shirtings and what 
would have been considered quite 
fancy materials only a short time ago 
are to-day being woven upon them. 
In a number of instances the auto- 
matic loom base is being used togeth- 
er with the jacquard head motion, and 
tne results obtained seem highly de- 
sirable. 

Sheeting warps are all made on 

THE SLASHER, 

there being either four or six beams 
to a set, and these are filled with yarn 
run from spools set in the creel rack of 
the warp mill. Each beam has a pro- 
portionate number of the total warp 
ends, viz. 2,000 ends, four beams, 
equals 500 ends per beam. These beams 
are set in regular order at the further 
end of the slasher frame. The total 
warp ends are then run through a so- 
lution of size, and around the hot cyl- 
inder, and then upon a beam, thereby 
sizing and beaming the warp at one 
operation. 

Sheeting requires nothing in the way 
of finishing, except being run through 
a plate folder, on which machine, hav- 
ing a brush attached, the cloth is at 
once brushed and folded in any de- 
sired length of fold. 

36 inches is the standard width for 
sheeting. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Always a I plain weave. 

4 square inches equal 4.15 grains. 

36 x 36 equals 1,296 x 4.15 equals 
5,378.4 divided by 4 equals 1,344.6 di- 
vided by 437.5 equals 3.07 ounces per 
yard. 

30 pieces yarn (warp) x 2y 2 inches 
equals 70 inches equals .89 grains 
minus 6 per cent size equals .83 grains. 
70 x 7,000 equals 490,000 divided by .83 
equals 590,361 divided by 36 equals 
16,399 divided by 840 equals 19.5 or 
l-20s warp. 

60 pieces yarn (filling) x iy 2 inches 
equals 90 inches equals .S9 grains. 90 
x 7,000 equals 630,000 divided by .89 
equals 707,864 divided by 36 equals 19,- 



662 divided by 840 equals 23.41 or l-24s 
filling. 

48 ends per inch plus 44 picks per 
inch equals 44 ends in reed and 42 
picks in loom. 

Reed 800—2 ends per dent, 38 
inches, including 16 ends selvage, 6 
per cent size on warp 10 per cent take- 
up on warp, 5y 2 per cent contraction 
in width. 

1,728 plus 16 equals 1,744 ends plus 
10 per cent take-up equals 1,937 yards, 
l-20s warp equals 1.83 ounces; 42 
picks x 38 equals 1,586 yards, l-24s 
filling equals 1.25 ounces; total 3.08 
ounces. 

Standard grades equal 36 inches 
wide. 

52 ends, 52 picks, l-20s cotton warp 
and filling; 6 per cent size, 5y 2 per 
cent shrinkage in width in weaving; 
38 inches in reed; 4.10 yards per 
pound. 

64 ends, 64 picks, l-32s warp, l-40s 
filling; 6 per cent size, 5y 2 per cent 
shrinkage in width in weaving; 38 
inches in reed; 5.86 yards per pound. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of the yarns used in 
making sheetings vary in different 

□■□■□■□■ 

■DBDBOBO 

omamcmam 
mamauama 
i ■ ■ mam 
m zmamama 
amnmamom 
mamamnma 

Plain Weave 



mnananB 

■ ■:a:i"B"j 

Brawing-in Draft 

□□■■DOM 

■■ :hcd 

Reed Plan 



parts of the country in different mills 
and even in the same mill two grades 
of sheetings are sometimes made. 
The mills that make sheetings may 
belong to any one of the three divi- 
sions as given in a previous article. 
In this article we will consider the 
sheetings in two grades, the first be- 
ing made up of 18s warp and the finer 
grade made up of 40s warp and fill- 
ing. The first or 

COARSE GRADES OP SHEETINGS 
are made in the first division of mills 
and the staple of cotton used would 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



4ii 



be about one inch in diameter. The 
mixing would in most cases be per- 
formed by hand and should be as large 
as possible. It would be put through 
two processes of picking, first being 
run through an opener. The speeds 
of the various parts on the machines 
in this room would be as follows: 
Speed of beater on openers, 1,050 rev- 
olutions per minute; fan, 350; speed of 
beater on breaker picker, 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute; speed of fan 1,400 
revolutions per minute; speed of 
beater on finisher picker, 1,450 revo- 
lutions per minute; speed of fan, 1,100 
revolutions per minute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 

at the different machines for this 
class of goods would be as follows: 
At the front of the breaker picker, 40 
pounds or 16 ounces to the yard; at 
the front of the finisher picker, 39 
pounds or 14% ounces to the yard. 
Always keep the hopper of the opener 
full. The above speeds and number 
of processes could also be used for 
fine sheetings, using 40s yarn with 
the following exceptions: Instead of 
being mixed by hand, a bale breaker 
and conveying trunks would be used, 
and the staple of cotton would be 
about 11 inches. The weight of the 
lap at the breaker would be about the 
same, but at the finisher picker would 
be less or about 35 pounds for the to- 
tal weight of lap or 12y 2 ounces to the 
yard. Always have laps of both 
classes uniform in weight, and if the 
laps vary one-half a pound in either 
direction from standard weight, they 
should be set aside and put back into 
mixing. Use cut roving in the mixing, 
mixing it as shown in a previous arti- 
cle. Double four into one in the picker 
room. The 

SETTINGS FOR THE CARD 
for the coarse sheetings should be 
wide, because of the large weight of 
cotton lap being passed through, and 
coarse wire should be used, 33 on the 
cylinder and 34 on tops and doffer. 
The drafts should not exceed 100 and 
the production should be about 900 
pounds per week of 60 hours, the 
weight of the sliver being 65 grains to 
the yard. The settings for the finer 



sheetings at the card should be closer 
and a fine wire fillet should be used. 
The draft of the card should not be 
less than 100 and the production 
should not exceed 600 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. Grind cards and tops as 
often as possible and strip three times 
a day on both grades of sheetings. Go 
over the settings after each grinding 
and keep cards clean. 

The coarser grade of sheeting is 
put through 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING, 

the weight per yard of the sliver at the 
front being 70 grains per yard, the 
doublings being six into one and the 
speed of the front roll 400 revolutions 
per minute. The finer grade of sheet- 
ing is put through three processes 
of drawing, the other particulars be- 
ing the same, excepting the settings, 
which are wider. Good settings are 
as follows: For one-inch stock, front 
to second roll, 11 inches; second to 
third roll, 1*4 inches; third to back 
roll, iy 2 inches; for 11-inch stock, 
from front to second, 1% inches; sec- 
ond to third, 1| inches; third to back, 
15 inches. Keep bottom steel rolls 
clean, and top leather rolls should al- 
ways be in perfect condition. Var- 
nish those rolls at regular intervals 
and always keep a supply of extra 
varnished rolls on hand, so that im- 
perfect rolls may be taken out at any 
time and replaced by rolls in good 
condition. The hank of the roving at 
the front of the slubber should be .55 
to . .50 in each case. The coarser 
sheeting yarn has to be put through 
two processes of fly frames, the hank 
at the first intermediate being 1.50 
and at the second 5 hank. 

THE ROVING 
for making the finer sheeting passes 
through three processes of fly frames, 
the hank roving at the different proc- 
esses being as follows: First inter- 
mediate, 1.50; second intermediate, 4, 
and fly frame, 10. The roving for both 
grades of sheeting is spun into yarn 
on the ring spinning frame. The par- 
ticulars for a warp frame for spinning 
18s being No. 4 Draper, McMullen or 
Whitin spindle; gauge of frame, 2'i 
inches; diameter of ring, 27 inches; 



m 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



traverse, 7 inches; speed of spindle, 
9,400 revolutions per minute, turning 
off about 2y 2 pounds per spindle per 
week of 60 hours. For a warp frame 
making 40s yarn, use No. 2 Draper, 
McMullen or Whitin spindle; gauge of 
frame, 2| inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; traverse, 6*£ inches; 
speed of spindle, 10,000 revolutions 
per minute, producing about .95 
pounds per spindle per week of 60 
hours. The warp yarn is spooled and 
warped and run through the slasher. 
A good 

SIZE MIXTURE 

for 18s yarn, one set of beams, 1,500 to 
2,000 pounds, is as follows: 160 gallons 
of water, 100 pounds starch, 20 to 40 
pounds sizing (according to make), 2 
to 8 pounds tallow, according to re- 
sults. For 68 x 68 heavy sheetings, 
with 22s warp yarn, use 100 gallons 
water, 70 pounds potato starch, 4 
pounds tallow and 1 pint of turpentine. 



CHEVIOT SHIRTING 

Cheviot shirting is a narrow, all-cot- 
ton fabric, weighing from four to five 
ounces per yard of 27 inches width 
finished and is composed of single or 
double ends in the warp and single 
filling. The effect of the double ends 
is entirely different from that pro- 
duced by a two-ply thread, and is 
really meant to create a rib weave ef- 
fect. 

This fabric is made of cotton yarns, 
from l-16s to l-22s in the warp and 
filling, and the cloth contains from 40 
to 46 double ends per inch in warp and 
36 to 40 picks per inch in the filling. 
Another grade is made by weaving 36 
to 62 single ends per inch in the cloth, 
and 19 to 52 picks per inch in the fill- 
ing finished. 

BY THE FIRST METHOD 

there is produced a cloth that is at 
once stout and pliable, and having ex- 
cellent wearing qualities. This cloth 
is used principally in the manufacture 
of shirts and mock shirts for the use 
of workmen accustomed to rough, dirty 
work, such as miners and railroad 
men, and those similarly employed. 



It is made in stripe pattern, usually 
of the darker tones of fast colors, such 
as dark blue, dark brown, etc., in the 
warp, and filling to match. In these 
warp stripe patterns the dark colors 
form the body or ground of the pattern 
and the white warp forms but a nar- 
row pin stripe in the cloth. Then 
there are the light patterns, in which 
nearly all the bright colors are used, 
such as light blue, orange, red, light 
green, etc. In this case the body or 
ground of the cloth is formed by the 
white warp, and the bright color form? 
the pin stripe in the cloth. Print yarns 
are occasionally introduced in the light 
colored patterns to create mixed color 
effects. The filling in the light pat- 
terns is always white. In making 
cheviot shirting there is rather 

A HEAVY SIZE 
placed upon the warp yarn. This per- 
mits of the cloth retaining quite a 
percentage of size after weaving, and 
as this fabric receives nothing but 
sprinkling and pressing after leaving 
the loom, the excessive amount of size 
gives the fabric a better cover, feel, 
and apparent bulk, which is its most 
distinguishing feature as a material 
for workmen's shirts. 

Cheviot shirting can be woven upon 
any plain loom, either single or double 
box. It is generally drawn in and wo- 
ven on 4 harnesses so as not to crowd 
the heddles in weaving, as would be 
the case if but 2 harnesses were used. 
Most all cheviot shirting is woven with 
a plain weave, although sometimes a 

2 warp effect, 45 degree twill weave, 

is used. 

CHEVIOT SHIRTING. 

1 square inch equals 1.83 grains. 2't 
x36 equals 972x1.83 equals 1,778.76 di- 
vided by 1 square inch equals 1,778,- 
.76 divided by 437.5 equals 4.065 ounces 
per yard. 

44 pieces white warp yarn x % inch 
long equals 22 inches equals .35 grains. 
.35 grains minus 10 per cent size on 
warp equals .315 grains. 22x7,000 
equals 154,000 divided by .315 equals 
48,888 divided by 36 equals 1,357 divid- 
ed by 840 equals l-16s cotton. 

110 pieces blue warp yarn x % inch 
long equals 55 inches equals .9 grains. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



m 



.9 grains minus 10 per cent size on 
warp equals .81 grains. 55x7,000 
equals 385,000 divided by .81 equals 
475,308 divided by 36 equals 13,203 di- 
vided by 840 equals 15.71 or l-16s cot- 
ton. 

15 pieces blue filling yarn x 2 inches 
long equals 30 inches equals .45 grains. 
30x7,000 equals 210,000 divided by .45 
equals 466,666 divided by 36 equals 12,- 
962.8 divided by 840 equals 15.43 or 1- 
16s cotton. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 700, 4 ends per dent; 28% 
inches in reed including selvage. 

532 plus 10 equals 542 splits or 2,168 
ends; l-16s cotton warp yarn. 

38 picks per inch; l-16s blue cotton 
filling yarn. 

10 per cent size on warp; 5*4 per 
cent contraction in width in weaving. 



Inches equals 1,083 yards equals 1.265 
ounces; total 4.067 ounces. 

4.067 ounces per yard, 27 inches wide 
finished. 



□■cmobdb 

■DBDWDBD 

dbdbdbdb 
■qbobqbd 

CWQBQBCn 

■Daaacwa 
amnuaaam 

■□■:jbcbj 

Weave 

□DDBDODB 
OOBODDBD 
OBODQBOa 

aannBDDn 

. Drawing-in Draft 



g 
* 

II ES 

"■8 



DDBB 

.ODBBaa 

Reed Plan 



WARP 
8 blue. 
2 white. 
2 blue. 
2 white. 



zamuc-.mu 

BBDOBBDa 

DQBBDDBB 

£ BBDOBBDD 

| DDBBDOBB 

M BBGDBBaa 

5 DDBflaDBB 
« ■■OGHDD 
£ Weave 

o □□nnonBD 
£ nnca«Dna 
° nDBaDDDn 

5 ■DDDDDDa 

,£ Drawing-in Draft 

6 nnonBHa 

■■■■rr.ca 

Seed Plan 



PATTERN. 



14 ends per pattern. 

8 per cent take-up in length of warp 
in weaving. 

Finish equals sprinkle and press 
equals 27 inches finished width. 

Plain weave, warp drawn in on 4 
harnesses. 

2,128 ends in warp divided by 14 
equals 152 repeats in pattern. 10 blue 
ends per pattern x 152 equals 1,520 
plus 40 ends blue selvage equals 1,560 
ends, l-16s blue warp yarn. 4 white 
ends per pattern x 152 equals 608 ends, 
l-16s white warp yarn. 

1,560 ends, l-16s blue warp yarn plus 
8 per cent take-up equals 1,695 yards 
equals 2.017 ounces. 608 ends, l-16s 
white warp yarn plus 8 per cent take- 
up equals 660 yards equals .785 ounces. 
38 picks, l-16s blue filling yarn x 28% 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills hich make the counts of 
yarn required for cheviots belong to 
the second division, given in a pre- 
vious article. This is one of the coars- 
er yarns made in this division and is 
manufactured from stock of about 1 
inch in staple. The mixings should be 
as large as possible and are generally 
done by hand, although this division 
of mills is generally equipped with a 
bale breaker. Of course, if the bale 
breaker is not too hard pushed or is 
stopped on account of all the other 
bins of better grades of cotton being 
full, then the raw stock for this class 
of goods will be run through the bale 
breaker. The bale breaker is capable 
of handling 80,000 to 90,000 pounds 
per week and requires about 2 iron 
horse power to drive it. 

IF FLOOR SPACE IS AVAILABLE 
two mixing bins should be used instead 
of one for reasons before stated. The 
cotton, after being dried out, should 
be run through two processes of pick- 
ing and an opener. Keep the hopper 
of the opener as near full as possible 
to make an even lap at the front. Keep 
the pin roller of the opener clear of 
all cotton, so that it may be able to do 
its duty. On some makes this roller 
is a great deal of trouble, which is 
caused by the cotton adhering to it 
and winding around it until it does not 
strike the cotton from the lifting apron 
properly. This is especially true when 
sliver waste (from all machines which 
make sliver) is mixed in with the raw 
stock at the bins (as is customary). 
The speed of the opener beater for 
this class of cotton should be 1,100 re- 
volutions per minute. The speed of 
the breaker beater should not exceed 
1,500 revolutions per minute. 

THE WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the front should be about 40 pounds 
or 16 ounces to the yard of lap. Care 
should be taken that the drafts on 
both the breaker and finisher pickers 
are regulated to the best advantage so 



4i4 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



as to obtain a smooth, firm, even lap 
at the front. To do this the draft is 
directed so that the cotton, after being 
acted upon by the beater, is blown on 
the top cage. The laps made at the 
breaker are put up at the back of the 
finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. 
The speed of the finisher picker beater 
should be 1,450 revolutions per minute, 
which gives this grade and staple of 
cotton passing by it about 42 beats to 
the inch. The weight of the total lap 
at the front should be about 39 pounds, 
which gives what is known as a 14%- 
ounce (to 'the yard) lap. 

OILING. 

Take care to oil all rapidly moving 
parts cf the pickers at regular and fre- 
quent intervals and keep all fly from 
collecting under these machines. See 
that the pickers are properly cleaning 
the cotton, and don't make the card do 
the picker's work. The laps from the 
finisher picker are put up at the back 
of the card, the draft of which (for 
this class of goods) should not exceed 
100. The wire fillet used should also 
be not too coarse. Always keep an eye 
on the settings and watch the flat 
waste, because from the appearance of 
this waste we are able to tell whether 
the cotton is being properly carded or 
not. 

THE SLIVER 

should weigh about 65 grams per yard 
and the production should be around 
900 pounds per week of 60 hours. 
Keep card wire sharp. The sliver is 
next run through 3 processes of draw- 
ing, the doubling being 6 into 1. The 
weight of the finisher drawing should 
be about 70 grains. The slubber rov- 
ing should be about .50 hank and there 
should be two processes of fly frames. 
The roving at the first intermediate 
should be 1.50 and at the second ei- 
ther 4 or 4.50, according to whether 
warp or filling yarn is to be made 
from it, the fine hank being made into 
22s filling yarn and the coarser hank 
roving bein°r made into 16s warp yarn. 
The yarn for this class of goods is 
spun on a ring spinning frame, 
the particulars of which are as fol- 
lows: For warp frame spinning 16s 
use McMullen, Whitin or Draper No. 



4 spindle; gauge of frame, 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 2 inches; length of 
traverse, 7 inches; speed of spindle, 
9,400 revolutions per minute; for fill- 
ing frame making 22s, spindle as above 
except No. 2 Draper; gauge of spindle, 
2% inches; diameter of ring, l l / 2 in- 
ches; length of traverse, Qy 2 inches; 
speed of spindle, 7,400 revolutions per 
ninute. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Following are good formulas for the 
colors used in dyeing cheviot shirt- 
«ngs: 

LIGHT GREEN. 

2 per cent immedial yellow D; 4 per 
cent immedial indone 3 B; 5 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 3 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 3 per cent soda. 

ORANGE. 

4 per cent immedial orange C; 4 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 
30 per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BLUE. 

3 per cent immedial indone 3 B; 3 
per cent immedial indone R; 2 per 
cent immedial indone B; 11 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 30 
per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BROWN. 

2 per cent thion black B; 8 per cent 
thion brown G; 10 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

2 per cent thion black B; 2 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda; 20 
per cent Glauber's. 

RED. 

5 per cent benzo scarlet 4 BS; 3 
per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

YELLOW. 

1 per cent chloramine yellow M; 3 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

SALMON. 

V 2 per cent benzo fast orange S; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



415 



OLIVE. 

5 per cent pyrogene olive N; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 
30 per cent Glauber's. 
BLACK. 

15 per cent katigen black S W; 15 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

After dyeing, all of the colors men- 
tioned must be well rinsed with three 
waters. A light soaping at the boil 
must then be given, followed by an- 
other rinsing. The colors will be fast 
to washing and will not bleed into 
each other. 



NOVELTY DRESS GOODS 

Novelty dress goods is a light- 
weight single cloth fabric, made from 
single and two-ply cotton yarns in 
both warp and filling, and is woven in 
large and small plaids, also solid 
colors. The distinct feature of this 
fabric is the prominence given 
the heavy yarns, which are always 
woven with a fancy weave in such a 
manner as to form an all-over effect 
in imitation of a jacquard pattern. The 
ground or body of the cloth is usually 
woven with a plain weave, 1 — . 

In the better grades of novelty 
dress goods, merino and silkaline 
yarns are often used. In making this 
class of goods it is sometimes neces- 
sary to use two beams in weaving, as 
the difference of take-up in the 
ground and fancy yarns will not per- 
mit of one beam being used. 

Novelty dress goods are made to 
weigh from 3 to 5 ounces per yard; 
generally l-20s to l-30s cotton ground 
warp and filling yarns, and 2-20s to 
2-40s, and l-8s to l-12s yarns are used 
to produce overplaided or novelty 
weave effects. 

This fabric is made in all dress 
goods colors and goods patterns pro- 
duced by using dark green, brown 
dark or cherry red, navy blue, etc., for 
ground color and crossing these with 
black. 

Cotton novelty goods can be woven 
in any power loom having a box mo- 
tion and dobby or head motion at- 
tached. 



To finish these goods they are meas- 
ured, then brushed and run through 
a steam box to liven the colors, after 
which they are rolled and pressed, 
ready to pack and ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

27 inches finished. 

4 square inches equals 5.7 grains. 27 
x 36 equals 972 x 5.7 equals 5,504.4 di- 
vided by 4 equals 1,385 divided by 437.5 
equals 3.165 ounces per yard. 

20 pieces black warp yarn x 2 inches 
equals 40 inches equals 1 grain. 40 x 



* 



a 



i ■nacnnBDaoMBCi 

1 rnnBDMDBDHHao 

, ■ :iDICIDIDIIID 

( ;;ir.i:i":i["iiici 

l R ir.Hl":BDiDMDI 

•■ nauaaaoaoMOBB 



-_JDDDDDDDBni 
OOQBBODDOaDBDB 
□DDDDBBDQQBDBa 
DCDanDDBaBDBDB 
Design 



jnnnnnncDDnDDB 

DDDDDDI 1DDDDDBD 
DDODDDDDDDDBDa 
□DDDDaDDDDBDaD 
DDDDCDDCBDDDDn 

aaanooaBDBQaco 

DDDODDBCDDDDDD 

nanDQBDDDoonan 

DDDDBDDCnaDDDD 
DDDBDDDDDDDDna 
r,BC!OQ DDDDDCDa 
BDBDCnaDDODQQa 
Drawing- in Draft 



a araraaaao 

DBBQBD.BQBBBQ 

BGQBUBQBBBBD 
□BBDBOBQBBDB 
BDDBaBDBBBDB 
DBBaBOaDBOBB 
BDDBOBGBBCBB 

GBBDananDBBB 

BDDBDBGBCBBB 
DBBDBDBDDBBB 
BBDDnDDOBDBD 
DDBBDDDDDBDB 
QQDDBBanBDBC 

Chain Draft 



7,000 equals 280,000 divided by 1 equals 
280,000 divided by 36 equals 7,777 di- 
vided by 840 equals 2-20 black warp. 

38 pieces brown warp yarn x 2 
inches equals 76 inches equals .92 
grains. 76 x 7,000 equals 532,000 di- 
vided by .92 equals 578,260 divided by 
36 equals 16,062 divided by 840 equals 
1-20 brown warp. 

12 pieces white warp yarn x 2 inches 
equals 24 inches equals .27 grains. 27 
x 7,000 equals 168,000 divided by .27 
equals 622,222 divided by 36 equals 17,- 
284 divided by 840 equals 1-20 white 
warp. 

' 24 pieces black filling yarn x 3 
inches equals 72 inches equals 1.45 
grains. 72 x 7,000 equals 504,000 di- 
vided by 1.45 equals 347,586.2 divided 
by 36 equals 9,655.17 divided by 840 
equals 1-12 black filling. 



416 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



17 pieces brown filling yarn x 3 
inches equals 51 inches equals .5 
grains. 

51 x 7,000 equals 357,000 divided by 
.5 equals 7,140,000 divided by 36 equals 
198,333 divided by 840 equals 1-24 
brown. 

12 pieces white filling yarn x 3 
inches equals 36 inches equals .35 
grains. 36 x 7,000 equals 252,000 di- 
vided by .35 equals 7,200,000 divided 
by 36 equals 200,000 divided by 840 
equals 1-24 white filling. 

50 ends per inch finished and 48 
picks per inch finished equals 44 ends 
per inch in reed and 43 picks per inch 
in loom. 

10 per cent take-up on white and 
brown warp, 2 per cent on black warp. 



WARP PATTERN. 
4 Brown 
2 White 
4 Brown 
4 Black 



Filling same. 



32 ends white selvage. 

Reed 800 — 2 ends per dent. 

30% inches in reed, including sel- 
vage. 

95 repeats of pattern plus 4 ends. 

1,334 ends plus 32 ends selvage. 8 
brown per pat. x 95 patterns equals 
760 plus 4 equals 764 plus 10 per cent 
take-up equals 848.88 yards 1-20 
equals .8084 ounces. 4 black per pat. x 
95 patterns equals 380 plus 10 per cent 
take-up equals 400.00 yards 2-20 equals 
.7619 ounces. 2 white per pat. x 95 
patterns equals 190 plus 10 per cent 
take-up equals 211.11 yards 1-20 
equals .2010 ounces. 32 white selvage 
plus 15 per cent take-up equals 37.64 
yards 1-20 equals .0358 ounces. Total 
warp weight, 1.8071 ounces. 

8-14 of filling equals brown or 740.- 
56 yards 1-24 equals .5877 ounces. 4-14 
of filling equals black or 370.28 yards 
1-12 equals .5877 ounces. 2-14 of filling 
equals white or 185.14 yards 1-24 
equals .1469 ounces. Total 3.1294. 

3.1294 ounces finished, 27 inches 
wide. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for novelty dress goods 
would probably be made in mills of 
the second division. For this class of 
goods three or more different counts 



of yarns are generally used, the counts 
varying from 4s to 40s, the medium 
yarn being from 20s to 30s. For the 
cloth under description we will con- 
sider that the yarns used are as fol- 
lows: 8s, to produce one effect and 
2-20s another, both of these yarns be- 
ing used on the face of the cloth, and 
l-30s for the ground warp and filling 
yarns. In some mills it is the custom 
to make all these counts of yarns from 
one staple and grade of cotton to save 
time and to reduce the number of mix- 
ings in order that the cotton may pass 
up to a certain point on the same ma- 
chines, the only difference being that 
the finer yarns are run through one 
more process of fly frames. While 
this undoubtedly saves time and ma- 
chines and may be done when the 
counts of yarn used in the cloth do 
not vary a great deal, still it is gener- 
ally the case to have two or even 
three different mixtures, one for the 
very coarse, one for the medium and 
one for the fine yarns. In this lesson 
we will consider that there are 

TWO MIXINGS, 

or in other words, two grades and 
staples of raw stock used, one for the 
8s and another mixing for the 20s to 
30s yarn. For 8s yarn the staple of 
the raw stock should be from 1 to 1 
inch in length and for the finer counts, 
cotton of from 1 to 1Mb inch staple 
may be used. The 1-inch stock would 
probably be mixed by hand, i. e., taken 
from the bale and pulled into small 
bunches and spread in the mixing bin 
by the help. In this mixture all good 
waste of the same length of staple is 
used, the roving waste being treated, 
as previously mentioned; sometimes, 
but not often, comber waste is used, 
but a large percentage should not be 
used. 

FOR THE FINER COUNTS 

the raw stock would be run through 
a bale breaker or, if no bale breaker 
was in the mill equipment, then the 
cotton would be mixed by hand the 
same as cotton for the coarser counts 
except that no comber waste would be 
used. Two processes of picking and 
an opener would be used with both 
processes. All the points in connection 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



417 



with the opener given in former ar- 
ticles should be carefully observed; 
the speed of the fan of the breaker 
should/ be about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute for both stocks and the weight 
of the laps 40 pounds or 16 ounces to 
the yard. The speed of the fan at the 
finisher picker should be a little less 
than at the breaker picker and the 
speed of the fan about 1,100 revolu- 
tions per minute. This gives the cot- 
ton passing under the action of the 
beater about 42 beats or blows per 
inch. The weight of the lap of the 
i-inch stock should be 39 pounds or 
14 ounces to the yard, and for the 
finer counts of yarn, 35 pounds or 12 ^ 
ounces to the yard. The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 

for the coarser count should not ex- 
ceed 100 and for the finer count should 
not be less than 100. The same size 
of wire fillet may be used for both 
grades or, generally speaking, No. 33 
wire fillet for cylinder and No. 34 wire 
fillet for doffer and top flats. The 
main points of difference would be in 
the setting of the card for the dif- 
ferent stocks, the longer staple of cot- 
ton requiring the closer settings, the 
production for the §-inch stock being 
900 pounds and for the l%e inch 
stock from 750 to 800 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. The doffer of the card 
should be as large as possible in both 
cases, either 26 or 27 inch diameter. 
Keep 

THE CARD WIRE 

sharp and be sure that the wire on the 
flats is of uniform length, because, if 
this is not the case, bad work is bound 
to result on account of the fact that 
even settings of the flats with the cyl- 
inder cannot be obtained. The weight 
per yard of the sliver would be the 
same in both cottons, or 65 grains per 
yard. The %-inch stock would be put 
through two processes of drawing 
and the longer staple three processes, 
doubled 6 into 1 in both cases. The 
weight of the sliver at the finisher 
drawing would be the same, or 72 
grains per yard. The same hank rov- 
ing would be made at the slubber, or 
.55 hank, although the settings 



of the rolls of both of the 
last named processes would be differ- 
ent. Only one process of draw- 
ing would be used on the 1- 
inch stock and at the fly frame it 
would be made into 1 hank roving and 
from here passed to the spinning room. 
For the 1Mb inch stock two proc- 
esses would be used. At the first in- 
termediate the slubber roving would 
be made into 2 hank roving and at 
the second the roving for 20s count 
yarn would be made into 4 hank and 
for the 30s count would be made into 
6 hank. The roving would then be 
taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM, 

where the required count would be 
spun. The particulars for a warp 
frame making 20s yarn have been giv- 
en in a previous lesson; for a warp 
frame making 8s, the following par- 
ticulars may be used; any high-grade 
spindle, length or traverse, 7 inch, 
gauge of spindle, 3*^4 inches, diameter 
of ring, 2% inehes, speed of spindle, 
8,100 revolutions per minute. For » 
warp frame making 30s use gauge of 
spindle, 2| inches, diameter of ring, 
1% inches, length of traverse, 6 inches, 
speed of spindle, 9,800 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then spooled and 
warped and dyed. For some of the ef- 
fects produced in this class of goods 
two yarns of different colors are twist- 
ed together; for this a machine known 
as a twister is used, one thread of 
each color being twisted togjsthe*. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
DARK GREEN. 
4 per cent tetrazo brilliant green J; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

RED. 
4 per cent tetrazo fast red 4 B; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal so- 
da. 

LIGHT SKY BLUE. 
1 per cent tetrazo blue 6 B new; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal so- 
da. 

WINE. 
3 per cent tetrazo corinth; SO per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 



418 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



DARK BLUB. 

3 per cent tetrazo blue B X; 30 per 

cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

DARK BROWN. 

3 per cent tetrazo dark brown; % 

per cent tetrazo black brown; 30 per 

cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

LILAC. 

2 per cent tetrazo chlorine lilac B; 

2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
% per cent tetrazo black N; X A Per 
cent tetrazo brilliant blue B B; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glauber's. 
DARK SLATE. 
\y% per cent tetrazo black N; % per 
cent tetrazo blue 3 B; 2 per cent sal 
soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
OLIVE. 
% per cent diamine fast yellow B; 

3 per cent diamine bronze G; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

BLACK. 
5 per cent tetrazo black N; 3 per 
cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
NAVY BLUE. 

3 per cent tetrazo blue B X; y z per 
cent tetrazo blue 4 R; 3 per cent sal 
soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

The above colors are for first baths, 
for a standing batb. One-third of the 
color can be taken away from these 
amounts. After dyeing, yarn must be 
well rinsed in water. 



DRILL 



Cotton drill is a medium-weight 
single cloth, weighing from 4 to 6 
ounces and composed of coarse all-cot- 
ton yarns, warp and filling. It is al- 
ways made with a small uneven sided 
twill weave, generally I — . (warp ef- 
fect) twill weave. 

Drill is sometimes made from yarns 
in the gray and afterwards dyed in 
the piece, or in solid warp color ef- 
fects, such as indigo blue and dark 
brown, white filling being used in each 
instance. 

It can be woven in any single box 
loom, and is usually drawn in and 



woven on cotton harness, as these are 
light in weight and wear better than 
wire heddles for tbis style of cotton 
goods. 

Drills are often made upon the au- 
tomatic loom because simple weaves 
such as are used on drills show just 
about as good results as when plain 
weave cloth is being manufactured, 
Whenever a heavy fabric is being 
made, it naturally follows that the 
loom is af a heavier character than 
when a light fabric is to be made, 
therefore, on drills the looms are 
likely to be heavier than where a light 
plain fabric is being woven. 

THE WARP 
is beamed on the slasher, the warp 
proper being divided into a certain 
number of sections, in accordance with 
the number of ends to be used in the 
drill warp. These ^sections are beamed 
on the warp mill, the yarn being run 
on to the beam from the spools in the 
creel rack. The several section beams, 
when completed in the warp mill, are 
assembled in the beam rack at the end 
of the slasher and the yarn from each 
beam is run through the size tub and 
over the drying cylinder of the slash- 
er at the same time, on to the slash- 
er beam, thus making a complete warp, 
the sizing and beaming being done at 
one operation. 

Slasher warps do not have a lease 
in them, the yarn being kept nearly 
straight in place by the use of a slash- 
er comb, which is, in fact, a shallow 
reed having one open side. The comb 
is pressed through the threads, while 
they are spread taut in the slasher 
frame and a wooden cap is then fast- 
ened upon the open side of the slasher 
comb, thereby holding the yarn in 
place for the operation of drawing in. 

The drawing in is performed by 
girls, without the aid of a hander in, 
as is the case when pattern warps are 
drawn in from a lease. 

The drawer-in for drill uses a three- 
bladed hook (a blade for each harness) 
and the harnesses or heddles are hung 
upon a rack immediately in front of 
the beamed warp. The drawer in, if 
experienced, will pick out three hed- 
dles and three ends at one time, and 
continue to do so until the total warp 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



419 



ends are threaded through the har- 
nesses or heddles. 

To finish colored drill, the goods are 
taken from the loom and run through 
the brusher to remove all lint and 
waste threads, after which they are 
put through the size tubs and then dry 

DTSSSGCl 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4 square inches equals 9.95 grains. 
30x36 equals 1,080x9.95 equals 10,748 
divided by 4 equals 2,686.5 divided by 
437.5 equals 6.14 ounees per yard fin- 
ished. 

30 pieces blue warp x 2 1 / & equals 75 
inches- equals 1.9 grains. 75x7,000 
equals 525,000 divided by 1.9 equals 
276,315.8 divided by 36 equals 7,675.43 
divided by 840 equals l-10s cotton. 

30 pieces white filling x 1% equals 
45 inches equals .55 grains. 45x7,000 
equals 315,000 divided by .55 equals 
572727 divided by 36 equals 15,909 
divided by 840 equals l-18s cotton. 

66 ends per inch finished and 48 
picks per inch finished equal 63 ends 
per inch loom and 44 picks per inch 
loom. 10 per cent take-up in weaving 
minus 6% per cent contraction in reed. 
16 ends seivage. 30 inches finished 
equals 32 inches in ? — i twill weave. 
750 reed minus 3 ends per dent. 
Finish equals size and dry press. 

66x30 equals 1,980 plus 16 equals 1,- 
996 plus 10 per cent equals 2,218 yards 
l-10s cotton warp equals 4.224 ounces. 
48 picks x 30 equals 1,440 yards, l-18s 
cotton filling equals 1.523 ounces. 

4.224 ounces warp. 
1.523 ounces filling. 



5.747 ounces loom weight. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars, 
The machinery used to make the 
counts of yarns for the kind of cloth 
under description would be found in 
mills of the first and perhaps of the 
second division, as given in a previous 
lesson. As the yarns are made from 
a short staple, low-grade cotton, the 
mixing will probably be done by hand; 
i. e., the bales of cotton would be 
opened at the mixing bin and the cot- 
ton separated into small parts and 
piled up in the bin until it was full. 
The good waste from cards and draw- 



ing frames would also be mixed in 
with the raw stock, and in the cheaper 
grades of drill comber waste is some- 
times used in small quantities. The 
same length of staple may be used 
for both warp and filling yarns and 
they may be run through the same 
machines up to the fly frames, and 
here 

THE ONLY DIFFERENCE 

is that the roving to make the filling 
yarn is run through one more process 
of fly frames than the warp yarn. The 
mixing is taken from the bins and 
thrown into the hopper of the opener 
and this hopper is always kept full. 
Keep the pin beater free from cotton, 
so that an even sheet of cotton may be 

BCBBCBBGBBCBBG 
CBBGBBaBBaBBGB 

■■oaaQHoaanaa 
BaaBaaaaaaDBBa 

rBBUBBDBBCBBDB 
BBOBBDBBOBBQBB 
BGBBGBBGBBGBBG 
OaaOBBOBBOBBOB 
BBQBBDBBOaaOBB 
BDBBDBBCBBDBBG 
CBBGBBOBBGBBDB 
BBGBBGaaOBBGBB 
HQBBGBBGBBUBBG 
Weave 

DGBaDBaDBDGBDDB 

DBaaBDQBaaBaaBa 
■acBnaBDGBanBDa 

Drawins-in Drift 

□QQBBBDnnBBBDDn 

■BBaaaaBBoaaBia 

Reed Fltn 



6.140 ounces finished. 
5.747 ounces loom. 

.393 ounces = sizing in finishing. 
About 6>£ per cent of size. 

passed up to the beater, the speed of 
which should be about 1,050 revolu- 
tions per minute. In modern mills 
this opener is built in connection with 
the breaker picker, and the cotton, 
after passing the beater, is thrown on 
to a moving lattice and is brought to 
the feed rolls of the breaker picker, 
which in turn condenses it and passes 
the beater which should have a speed 
of 1,500 revolutions per minute. See 
that the draught of this picker and 
also the finisher picker is so directed 
that the cotton, after passing the 
beater, will be blown upon the top of 
the pair of cages, as this will 

HELP TO MAKE AN EVEN LAP 
at the front end. The weight of the 
lap at the front end of the breaker 



420 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



should be about 40 pounds or about 16 
ounces to the yard. The laps are 
then put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. The speed of 
this beater should be 1,450 revolutions 
per minute and the weight of the 
finished lap about 39 pounds or 14 
ounces to the yard. The cotton re- 
ceives about 42 beats to the inch at 
this machine. The draft of this ma- 
chine is very small and very rarely ex- 
ceeds 3. All heavy and quickly mov- 
ing parts should be oiled frequently 
and keep the room clean. The laps 
are then put up at the card. The 
draft of this machine should not ex- 
ceed 100 for this class of goods. 

THE SETTINGS 
should be wide, because it is the ob- 
ject to get off as many pounds as pos~ 
sible for this class of goods. Keep the 
wire sharp by frequent grindings. The 
speed of the licker-in should be about 
300 revolutions per minute. The speed 
of the top flats should be one com- 
plete revolution in 40 minutes and the 
speed of the doffer from 13% to 14 
revolutions per minute. The diameter 
of the doffer should be as large as 
possible, say 26 or 27 inches. The pro- 
duction should be about 800 pounds 
for a week of 60 hours. 

THE SLIVER 
should weigh about 65 grains to the 
yard. The sliver is run through three 
processes of drawings, the weight at 
the finisher drawing being 70 grains. 
The doublings at the different process- 
es of drawing should be 6 into 1 and 
the drafts should not exceed 6. The 
speed of the front roller should be 400 
revolutions per minute. The slubber 
is the next process, and here the 
sliver should be made into a 50 hank 
roving. The warp yarn is then put 
through one more process of fly frame 
and made into 1.25 to 1.50 hank rov- 
ing and from here passed to the spin- 
ning room. The filling yarn is put 
through one more process and is made 
into 2.50 hank roving and then passed 
on to the spinning room. 

THE SPINNING FRAME 
then draws the roving into the re- 
quired hank by having the correct 
draft gear put on. Good specifications 



for both the warp and filling frames 
are as follows: For warp frame, for 
spinning 10s yarn, gauge of spindle, 
three inches; diameter of ring, two 
inches; length of traverse, 7 inches; 
speed of spindle, 8,600 revolutions per 
minute; twist per inch, 15.02; for fill- 
ing frame spinning 18s yarn, gauge of 
spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
iy 2 inches; speed of spindle, 7,200 rev- 
olutions per minute; length of trav- 
erse, 6% inches; twist per inch, 13.79. 
The warp yarn is then spooled, warped 
and run through a slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
Drills are yarn dyed, blue and 
brown, indigo or sulphur blues, cutch 
or sulphur browns. 

PYROGENE INDIGO BLUE. 

10 per cent color; 20 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 8 per cent soda ash; 
35 per cent salt; 2 per cent mineral oil, 
1 hour at 200 degrees F. After-treated 
with 

1% Per cent bichrome; \y 2 per cent 
sulphate copper; 3 per cent acetic 
aeid, 9 degrees Tw. Well rinsed and 
soaped. A soap made of 

2 per cent paraffin wax; 2 per cent 
glue; 2 per cent dextrine is consid- 
ered very suitable. Turn for 15 min- 
utes at 120 degrees F. Squeeze and 
dry. 

BRO vVN. 

5 per cent immedial cutch O; 1 per 
cent immedial dark brown A; 3 per 
cent immedial brown B; 8 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. Turn at 200 
degrees F. for one hour, rinse and 
after-treat: 

iy 2 per cent bichrome; iy 2 per cent 
sulphate copper; 3 per cent acetic 
acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 30 minutes at 200 
degrees F. Rinse and soap with a 
weak solution at Loil. 

A variety of shades are piece dyed 
on drills and used for various pur- 
poses, where a very strong cloth is re- 
quired. 

SLATE. 

3 per cent thion black B; 3 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent common salt. Rinse well 
and soap. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



421 



BLACK. 

15 per cent thion black G; 15 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent common salt. Rinse 
well and soap. 

BUFF. 

1 per cent thion brown G; % per 
cent thion yellow R; 2 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent common salt. Rinse well 
and soap. 

OLIVE. 

4 per cent immedial olive B; y 2 per 
cent immedial black N G; y 2 Per cent 
immedial yellow D; 5 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and 
soap. 

SKY BLUE. 

3 per cent immedial sky blue pow- 
der; 3 per cent sodium sulphate; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. Rinse well and soap. 

GREEN. 

10 per cent katigen green 2 B; 10 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 
rinse well and soap. 

DARK BOTTLE GREEN. 

10 per cent immedial dark green B; 
2 per cent immedial yellow D; y 2 per 
cent immedial black N G; 13 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well 
and soap. 

RED. 

5 per cent diamine fast red; 3 per 
cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. Rinse and after-treat with 1 per 
cent fluoride chrome. 



FLANNELETTE 

Flannelette is a narrow, light-weight 
fabric composed of all-cotton yarns, 
from l-30s to l-14s in the warp and 
filling, the filling being soft spun to 
permit of the raising of a very slight 
nap on the back of the goods. 

This fabrics is practically always 
woven from grey yarns and never 
from bleached yarns. In some cases 



where striped patterns of a woven 
character are being made the yarns 
are made by a stock dyeing process, 
and in this case it might be said that 
the yarns were of a bleached and dyed 
character, but by far the largest por- 
tion of the cloths are not made in this 
manner. When the material has been 
woven it is piece bleached and then 
the various printed patterns are 
placed upon the face of the goods by 
the printing machine. In the most 
successful mills these fabrics are made 
in the grey state upon automatic 
looms, and a lower cost of production 
obtained. Even when striped pat- 
terns are being made, or where solid 
colors in piece dyed effects are being 
produced some manufacturers have 
found the use of automatic looms of 
great advantage. 

Flannelette is made with simple one 
or two colored stripe patterns, either 
black and white, or indigo blue and 
white, and in elaborate all-over floral 
designs in imitation of jacquard pat- 
terns, the ground colors being of a 
dark tone, and the figure of either 
harmonious or contrasting combina- 
tions of color. The 'finished fabric is 
sold by the retailer at 8 to 10 cents 
per yard, 27 inches wide, and is used 
very extensively in the manufacture 
of ladies' wrappers, kimonos, etc., for 
house wear, and which, when soiled, 
can be thrown into the family wash 
and cleaned. 

THE PRINTING OPERATION 

is performed by an automatic machine, 
which consists of a series of rollers or 
drums, over which the cloth is passed 
to hold it taut, and smooth all wrin- 
kles so that the goods present an even 
surface to the printing roll. 

Upon this roller the design or pat- 
tern is engraved, and the liquid color 
being fed upon it as it revolves, the 
cloth passes over the surface, and re- 
tains an exact impression of the de- 
sign (in colors) that has been en- 
graved upon the roller. 

Flannelette can be woven in any 
single box loom, and the finish means 
taking from the loom and brushing off, 
to remove loose threads, then run- 
ning through the napper to produce a 



422 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



nap on the goods, after which the 
fabric is printed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

27 inches finished. 

4 square inches equals 4.85 grains. 
27x36 equals 972x4.85 equals 5,714.20 
divided by 4 equals 1,428.55 divided by 
437.5 equals 3.034 ounces per yard, 27 

inches wide. 

cannon 

ammaamua 

IIDDIIDa 

maammoom 

DGBIDDBB 
DNDDlia 
■■ODBBCO 
■DOnODB 
Design 

ODQBDDDB 
DDBDaDBD 
DBDDDBDa 

BaanBaaa 

Drawing- in Draft 

□DflBDDBfl 

IIDDIIDCI 

Reed Plan 

DDBB 

Limma 
mnna 
mnarn 
namm 

DUD 

nan 

mnarn 

Harnou Otuua 

20 pieces white warp x 2% equals 
50 inches equals .35 grains. 50x7,000 
equals 350,000 divided by .35 equals 1,- 
000,000 divided by 840 equals l-30s 
cotton warp. 

16 pieces white filling x 2 equals 32 
inches equals .3 grains. 32x7,000 
equals 224,000 divided by .3 equals 
746,666 divided by 840 equals l-24s 
eotton filling. 

Reed 1,460—29 1-3 inches— 2 ends 
per dent; 16 ends selvage, 10 per cent 
take-up; 2,376 ends, l-30s white cot- 
ton warp (ex. of selvage) ; 59 picks, 
l-24s white cotton filling (soft spun); 

? 2 45s twill weave (warp effect on 

face) ; finish equals very light nap on 
the back of the fabric or filling effect. 

88 ends per inch finished and 64 
picks per inch finished equals 81 ends 
in reed and 59 picks in loom. 

88x27 equals 2,376 plus 16 equals 
2,392 ends plus 10 per cent take-up 
equals 2,658 yards l-30s warp yarn 
equals 1.687 ounces. 64 picks x 27 
equals 1,728 yards l-24s filling equals 
1.371 ounces. Total 3.058 ounces. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 
The processes of machinery for 
making the required count of yarns 



for flannelette may be found in either 
the better class of the first division 
or in the second division of mills, as 
given in a previous lesson. A medium 
to low grade of cotton of from % to 
1% inch staple may be used, accord- 
ing to the grade or mill in which the 
flannelette is made. Generally speak- 
ing, a cotton of %-inch staple is used. 
In the first division of mills the mix- 
ing would be done by hand, but in the 
second division the equipment would 
probably include a bale breaker, and 
unless the mixing was pressed the 
cotton would be run through this ma- 
chine, and as this machine will take 
care of 80,000 pounds of cotton there 
is not much danger of it being over- 
worked. 

THE MIXING 

should be as large as possible and in 
the lower grades of flannelette the 
mixing would include a small percent- 
age of comber waste, as well as the 
good sliver waste from the cards, 
drawing frames and comber rooms (if 
equipment contains same). The better 
grades of flannelette would not use 
waste. Roving waste would be used 
in both mixings, but this stock would 
not be mixed until the finisher picker 
process, and here the waste should not 
be mixed in a greater proportion than 
1 to 4. In the modern equipments of 
mills generally only two processes of 
picking, with an opener, are used; but 
as there are a great many mills, which 
use three processes of picking, the 
particulars will be given for 

THREE PROCESSES OF PICKING. 

For this class of goods the rigid type 
of beater is used on all picking ma- 
chines. Ke°p the hopper of the opener 
more than half full to help obtain an 
even lap. The speed of the beater of 
the opener should be about 1,000 revo- 
lutions per minute. This machine is 
generally used in connection with the 
breaker picker, and after the cotton 
has passed the beater, it is passed 
under a pair of wooden rollers onto an 
endless lattice which carries it to the 
feed rolls of the breaker picker. The 
speed of the beater of this machine 
should be about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute and the weight of the laps at 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



423 



the front about 40 pounds or about 16 
ounces to the yard. 

THE DOUBLINGS 
of the intermediate picker should be 
four into one and the speed of this 
beater should be the same as the fin- 
isher picker, or 1,450 revolutions per 
minute. The speed of the fan at this 
machine should be about 1,050 revolu- 
tions per minute. The speed of the 
driving shafts on this and on the fin- 
isher picker should be about 375 rev- 
olutions per minute. The weight of 
the lap at the front should be a little 
less than at the breaker, or about 37 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The same 
particulars may be used for the finish- 
er picker with the following excep- 
tions: Speed of fan, 1,100 revolutions 
per minute and the weight of the lap 
about 39 pounds or about a 14-ounce 
lap. These particulars will answer for 
both warp and filling. The lap is put 
up at the card which should have a 
draft of about 100. Set the doffer to 
a 5-gauge and use as large a doffer as 
possible, either a 26 or 27 inch. The 

PRODUCTION OF A CARD 

for this class of work should be about 
800 pounds, with a 65 -grain sliver, for 
a week of 60 hours. On this class of 
goods no combing is used, but a three- 
process drawing. See that the proper 
weights are attached to the top rolls. 
The doublings are generally six into 
one, although eight into one are used 
in some mills. Don't draw more than 
you double. The draft should be about 
5 at each process; speed of front rolls 
400 revolutions per minute. Watch 
your settings of the top rolls at these 
machines. The hank roving made at 
the slubber should be about .55. Only 
one process of fly frames is used for 
warp, the hank roving being made 
about 2. Use square root of hank x 1,1 
for twist. For the filling, a two-proc- 
ess fly frame is used, the hank 
roving being 2 at the first interme- 
diate and 3.75 to 4.00 hank at the 2d 
intermediate. Use square root of hank 
x 1.2 for twist. The roving is now car- 
ried to 

THE SPINNING ROOM 
where it is made into the required 
count of yarn. For 14s warp yarn use 



the following particulars for spinning 
frame: Size of spindle, any first class; 
gauge of spindle, 3 inches; diameter 
or ring, 2% inches; length of traverse, 
7 inches. For this class of goods a 
soft twist is used for the warp yarn, 
as little as possible being put in, but 
be sure and put in enough so that 
the yarn will not break back in the 
loom. For a filling frame for 30s yarn 
use as follows: Gauge of spindles, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, iy 2 inches, 
length of traverse, 6y 2 inches. The 
warp yarn is then spooled, warped 
and put through the slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
SKY BLUE. 
% per cent eboli blue 6 B; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
PINK. 
% per cent dioxyrubine G; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
YELLOW. 
% per cent fast cotton yellow C ex- 
tra; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

SCARLET. 

3 per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

WINE. 

4 per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

RED. 
4 per cent diamine fast red F; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 
CINNAMON BROWN. 

3 per cent diamine brown 3 G; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

BLACK. 
15 per cent pyrogene black B; 20 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 40 per cent Glauber's. 
DARK BROWN. 

4 per cent chrysophenine; 2 per cent 
benzo fast black; 2y 2 per cent benzo 
fast red L; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 
per cent sal soda. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
3 per cent benzo green G G; % per 
cent chrysophenine; y 2 per cent benzo 
fast black; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 
per cent sal soda. 



424 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



SLATE. 

1 per cent benzo fast black; y 2 per 
cent benzo fast blue R N; % per cent 
benzo fast red L; 30 per cent Glaub- 
er's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

2 per cent tetrazo lilac B.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 
5 per cent tetrazo indigo blue C; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

ORANGE. 

3 per cent tetrazo chlorine orange 
R.; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 

LEMON YELLOW. 
\y£ per cent tetrazo lemon yellow; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

■» ♦ » 



DENIM 



Denim is a strong, medium-weight 
single-cloth fabric, weighing from 4y 2 
to 5 ounces per yard and composed of 
single cotton yarn in warp and filling. 

It is usually made with a small, un- 
even-sided twill weave, such as 2 — ^45° 
twill, and in solid color warp ef- 
fects, generally indigo blue or dark 
brown, and white filling. White sel- 
vage is used in all grades. 

A grade known as covert cloth is 
made of twist yarn in the warp, and 
dark colored single filling. The twist 
yarns are usually blue and white and 
the cloth of a similar texture to that 
of the regular denim. 

In effect denim is a stout, twilled 
fabric, having excellent wearing quali- 
ties, and is made to sell at 10 to 15 
cents per yard retail. It is used prin- 
cipally in the manufacture of overalls, 
to be worn by workmen who operate 
machinery, or by those who perform 
hard, rough labor of any description. 

Denim can be woven on any single 
box loom, the warp being prepared on 
the slasher in the same manner as a 
sheeting warp. It is then drawn in on 
the harness or heddles, in accordance 
with weave desired. 

The finish of this fabric is a rather 
heavy sizing, after which the goods are 
dried and pressed. 



Denim is sometimes dyed in the 
piece, in light shades of tan, blue, etc., 
and the goods made up into summer 
outing skirts for ladies' wear. 

1 square inch equals 2.6 grains. 27 x 
36 equals 972 x 2.6 equals 2,527.2 divid- 
ed by 1 equals 2,527.2 divided by 437.5 
equals 5.77 ounces per yard, 27 inches 
wide finished. 

20 pieces blue warp x 1 inch equals 
20 inches equals .5 grains. 20 x 7,000 
equals 140,000 divided by .5 equals 2,- 
800,000 divided by 36 equals 7,777.77 
divided by 840 equals l-9s warp. 



ID! 



una 

IGB 



GBBGBBQBBGBB Dl 

■ ■ nilDIIDlia ■■'. I : 

■ DliailDIIDI BGB t 

DBBGBBDBBGBB OBB « 

BBDBBGBBGBBG BIG a 

BGBBGBBGBBGB BJB § 

DBBGBBGBBGBB GBB g 

BBGBBGBBGBBC BBG 

BGBBGBBGBBGB BGB 
Deflign 



DGBGGBGGBGDB 

DlGGBaCBGGBG 

BGCBGDBODBGa 

Drawing- in Draft 



DaGBBBODGBBB 

BBBGGGBBBGCG 

HndPlin 



15 pieces white filling x 3 inches 
equals 45 inches equals .65 grains .45 
x 7,000 equals 315,000 divided by .65 
equals 484,615 divided by 36 equals 13,- 
461.43 divided by 840 equals l-16s fill- 
ing. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

* twill 45°. 

i 

68 ends per inch finished and 42 
picks per inch finished equals 63 ends 
in reed and 40 picks in loom. 

Reed 750 — 29 inches — 3 ends per 
dent. 10 per cent take-up — 32 ends sel- 
vage. 40 picks, l-16s white cotton fill- 
ing. 

1,836 ends blue yarn and 32 ends 
white yarn selvage equals l-9s cotton 
warp. 

1,836 + 32 = 1,868 + 10% take- 
up — 2,076 vards 1-9 warp = 4.39 oz. 

42 picks X 27" = 1,134 yards 1-16 

filling = 1.35 oz. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Denim is constructed of yarns that 
are made in either the first or second 
division of mills as given in a pre- 
vious lesson. In the second division 
of mills the raw stock would be run 
through a bale breaker, as this class 
of mills would undoubtedly contain 
this machine in their equipment. In 
the first division of mills the mixing 
would be done by hand. When bale 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



425 



breakers are used, it is of great ad- 
vantage to have a blower in connection 
with them. This blower is generally 
placed at the delivery end of tbe ma- 
chine and blows the cotton, after it 
has passed through the bale breaker, 
through trunking onto an endless lat- 
tice which deposits it in the mixing 
bins. A blower is of advantage be- 
cause it opens the cotton and the cur- 
rent of air helps to dry it and the cot- 
ton does not have to dry out in the 
mixing bins, as is the case when a 
blower is not used. Mixing is 

A VERY IMPORTANT PART 

of the card room, and too little atten- 
tion is generally given to it. It will 
be understood that if the cotton is not 
properly mixed, this defect cannot be 
remedied at any subsequent machine. 
Cotton of the same length of staple 
should always be used, cotton of the 
same nature, and where waste is used 
the percentage should be as small as 
it is possible to make it. The same 
mixing may be used for making both 
the warp and filling yarns, a me- 
dium to low grade being used of a 
staple length of about one inch (rang- 
ing from % to 1 1-16 inches, accord- 
ing to the quality of the denim being 
made). A small percentage of comber 
waste may be used, but is not advis- 
able. The good sliver waste 
from the cards and drawing 
frames is mixed with the raw 
stock and the roving waste is 
mixed in the manner described in a 
previous article. The cotton would be 
put through two processes of picking 
and an opener. Keep the hopper of the 
opener well filled with cotton, so that 
the lifting apron will always be carry- 
ing up a full load of cotton to the pin 
roller. The 

SPEED OP THE BEATER 
of the opener should be about 1,050 
revolutions per minute, the speed of 
the fan being about 350 revolutions 
per minute. If porcupine beater is 
used, the speed should be about 1,150 
revolutions per minute. The speed of 
a two-bladed beater of a rigid type of 
the breaker picker should be about 1,- 
500 revolutions per minute, the speed 
of the fan being about 100 revolutions 



less. The total weight of the lap at 
the head end should be about 40 
pounds, or 20 ounces to the yard. The 
doublings at the finisher picker are 
4 into 1 and the speed of the beater 
(two-bladed rigid type), 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute, which will beat the 
cotton sheet presented to it about 42 
times per inch in length. The weight 
of the lap in the front should be as 
heavy as possible and at the same 
time not overwork the card. A good 
weight would be 39 pounds or a 14- 
ounce lap (for a 38-inch lap). The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 

should not exceed 100 and should be 
not less than 90. The sliver should 
weigh 65 grains per yard and the pro- 
duction about 850 pounds for a week 
of 60 hours. Keep your card wire 
sharp, and be sure that your top flats 
are ground even, because close and 
accurate settings cannot be obtained 
when the wire on the flats is not of a 
uniform length. Large doffers should 
also be used. The sliver would then be 
put through two processes of drawing 
frames, the speed of the front roll (iy 2 
inches diameter) being 400 revolutions 
per minute on each set. The draft 
should not be more than the doublings 
and the sliver should weigh about 70 
grains per yard, 

THE PRODUCTION 
being about 260 pounds per delivery 
per day of 10 hours. When metallic 
rolls are used, the production would 
be considerably greater or about 350 
under the conditions noted above. Me- 
tallic rolls are coming more and more 
into use, especially on the lower 
counts of yarns, and also on a heavy 
sliver; although they can be used on 
all grades and lengths of staple, they 
are not generally used, but not through 
any fault of the rolls, as they are suit- 
able for producing fine work. The slub- 
ber draws the sliver into .55 hank and 
the one-process fly frames used make 
the roving into a 1.75 hank roving. 
Sometimes two different hanks are 
made at the fly frame, one for the 
warp and one for the filling yarns; 
where this is the case, the warp is 
made from one hank roving and the 
filling from 2.00 hank. The particu- 



426 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



lars for the warp spinning frame for 
No. 9s are as follows: Front roll, one 
inch diameter; gauge of frame, 3 
inches; diameter of ring, 2 1 / 4 inches; 
length of traverse, 7 inches; for a fill- 
ing frame making 16s use gauge of 
frame, 2| inches; diameter of ring, 
1| inches; length of traverse, 6% 
inches. The warp yarn is then spool- 
ed, warped and put through the 
slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

BLUE. 

6 per cent katigen indigo B.; 6 per 
cent katigen indigo 5 G.; 12 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent salt; after-treat with iy 2 
per cent bichrome, 2 per cent copper 
sulphate and 4 per cent acetic acid. 
Rinse well and soap. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent immedial black NN. ; 15 
per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 4 per cent soda ash. 
Rinse well and soap. 

BROWN. 

6 per cent thion brown G.; 6 per 
cent thion brown B.; 2 per cent thion 
yellow R.; 14 per cent sulphide so- 
dium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per 
cent salt; after-treat 3 per cent bi- 
chrome, 3 per cent sulphate cop- 
per; 5 per cent acetic acid. Rinse well 
and soap. 

SLATE. 

5 per cent pyrogene black B.; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. Rinse well and 
soap. 

DARK GREEN. 

10 per cent immedial green G. ; % 
per cent immedial black NB.; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse 
well and soap. 

RED. 

8 per cent diamine fast red F.; 30 
per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent 
soda crystals. Rinse and after-treat 2 
per cent fluoride chrome at 160 de- 
grees F. 



BOURRETTE 



Bourrette is a light-weight, single 
cloth fabric, weighing from 4% to 6 
ounces, composed of two-ply cotton 
warp, and either wool, merino, or a 
combination of cotton and wool shod- 
dy filling. Both the warp and the fill- 
ing have an occasional end or pick 
of fancy bourrette or nub yarn add- 
ed for effect; hence the name. 

In appearance bourrette cloth is a 
semi-rough-faced woolen fabric, hav- 
ing small fancy colored lumps on the 
yarn, scattered throughout the goods 
in accordance with the effect desir- 
ed. The cloth when finished is used 
principally in the manufacture of la- 
dies' fall suitings. 

THE WEAVE 
is usually a I plain weave, or a mix- 
ed twill effect, such as can be produc- 
ed from the regular - — 45 degrees 
twill, viz.: diamond or entwining twill 
weaves. These weaves, in connection 
with certain warp and filling patterns, 
such as 1 black, 1 fancy twist or 2 
black, 2 fancy twist, create very elab- 
orate styles, as this color arrangement 
serves to hide the rigid outline of 
the design, and thus has a tendency 
to complicate the general appearance 
of the weave used in the fabric. 

The fancy effects in twist that can 
be adapted to this line are made by 
twisting the following colors together, 
viz.: 

Black and white. 
Black and light blue. 
Black and light green. 
Black and old gold. 
Black and red. 
Black and light brown. 

These twist yarns serve the purpose 
of brightening up the general ap- 
pearance of the goods. 

Bourrette cloth can be woven in any 
power loom, excepting those styles 
wherein a single pick of the fancy 
yarn is introduced in the filling, in 
which case a pick and pick dobby 
loom is necessary. 

TO FINISH THE FABRIC, 
the goods are taken from the loom and 
measured, after which they are brush- 
ed, scoured in a solution of soap 
and cold water, then tentered and 
dried and pressed. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



427 



The bourrette yarn is made by twist- 
ing two cotton threads and a worsted 
thread together, the worsted being al- 
lowed to deliver more quickly than 
the cotton threads at regular inter- 
vals. 

The excess which is delivered is 
twisted around the cotton threads in 



dbbddbbdbddbbddb 
ddbbddbbddbbddbb 

IDDIIDDIDIiaDIID 

■■aauQDHODHDa 

['IBBDDBBDBnrjBBClDB 
ODBBOrjBBODBBOrBB 
B ?DBBQDBQBBCJDBBD 
BBnaBBaDBlDDBBDQ 
□DBBDDBBuDBBDCBB 
DBBDDBBDBDDBBDDB 
BBnDBBDOBBDDBBDD 
BDDBBODBOBBDDBBD 
DDBBDDBBDDBBDDBB 
DBHnnBBDBDDBBnnB 
BBDOBBDDBBDDBBDD 
BDOBBDDBDBBDDBBD 



DOOBDDDBODBDDDBO 
DDBDDDBDDDDBODDB 
DBDDOBDDBDDDBODD 
BDDDBQDDDBDDDBDD 

Drawing-in Draft 
CBDBDBDBDBDBDBnB 
■DlCiDIDiniDlDlD 



DBBD 
DDBB 
BDDB 
■ IQD 
DBB I 
DDBB 
BDDB 
BBDD 
DDBB 
DBBD 
BBDD 
BDDB 
DDBB 
DBBD 
BBDD 
BDDB 



OBDBDBDB 
BDBDBDBD 
DBDBDBDB 
BOBDBOBD 
DBDBDBDB 
BDBDB ■ I 
DBDBDBDB 
BDBDBDBD 
Design 

DBDBDBDB 

■CBDBDBD 

Drawing- In 

Draft 

DBDBUBDB 

BDBDBDBD 

Reed Flan 



the one place, thereby forming a lump 
on the twisted yarn, as the worsted 
yarn is run at a varied speed, and is 
not regularly distributed around the 
cotton threads. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4 square inches equals 7.61 grains. 

33 x 36 equals 1,188 times 7.61 equals 
904,068 divided by 4 equals 2,260.17 di- 
vided by 437.5 equals 5.11 ounces, 33 
inches wide from loom. 

23 pieces black warp times 2 equals 
46 inches equals 1.41 grains. 

46 x 7,000 equals 322,000 divided by 
1.41 equals 228,368 divided by 36 
equals 6,343.5 divided by 840 equals 2- 
14s. 

22 pieces twist warp times 2% 
equals 55 inches equals 2 grains. 

55 x 7,000 equals 385,000 divided by 
2 equals 178,804 divided by 36 equals 
5,216.8 divided by 840 equals 2-12s. 

30 pieces black merino filling times 



2 equals 60 inches equals 3 grains. 
60 x 7,000 equals 420,000 divided by 

3 equals 140,000 divided by 36 equals 
3,888 divided by 300 equals l-12s cut. 

10 per cent up. 

Reed, 400 minus 1 end per dent 
minus 36 inches wide, including sel- 
vage of 16 ends 2-14s black, 24 picks, 
1-12 cut merino equals 75 per cent 
wool and 25 per cent cotton. 

Warp pattern: 1 black equals 2-14s 
cotton; 1 twist equals 2-12s cotton. 

24 picks times 36 equals 864 yards 
1-12 merino equals 3.84 ounces. 

192 ends black plus 16 equals 208 
plus 10 per cent take-up equals 231 
yards, 2-14s equals 6.28 ounces; 192 
ends twist plus 10 per cent take-up 
equals 213 yards 2-12s equals .676 
ounces; total, 5.144 ounces per yard 
loom. 

Finish — Scour, tenter and steam 
press to loom width. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

In the class of goods under descrip- 
tion it will be noticed that there is a 
very small percentage of cotton con- 
tained in its make-up. If the cotton 
yarn that this class of goods contains 
was made in a cotton mill, the follow- 
ing particulars would be a good foun- 
dation on which to base the speeds, 
weight and processes through which 
the raw stock would have to pass be- 
fore being turned out into 2-ply 12s 
or 2-14s yarn, as the case may be. 
This class of yarn may be made in the 
first division of mills, and the cotton 
would be hand mixed and put in the 
bins. The mixing should be allowed to 
dry out as much as possible before us- 
ing, and a better plan would be to 
have two large mixing bins so that 
when one was in use the other one 
might be filled and the cotton dried. 
This is not always done, because most 
picker rooms are pressed for floor 
space. 

THE RAW STOCK 

should be put through two processes 
of picking and an opener. The good 
waste from pickers, cards and draw- 
ing frames should be put into the mix- 
ing bin before running it through the 
opener. Always keep the hopper of 



428 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



the opener more than half full and 
gauge your stripping roller so that 
quite a heavy weight of cotton is pass- 
ed to the action of the beater. The 
speed of the beater for the opener 
should be about 1,000 revolutions per 
minute, and the speed of the fan about 
350 revolutions per minute. This ma- 
chine is used in connection with the 
breaker picker and the speed of the 
beater (2 bladed rigid type), should be 
about 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of the lap at the front 
should be about 40 pounds or a 20- 
ounce lap to the yard. The laps from 
the breaker picker are put up at the 
finisher picker and. doubled 4 into 1. 
The speed of the beater at this ma- 
chine should be about 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute, which gives about 
42 blows per inch of cotton fed. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 

should be about 40 pounds or a 14%- 
ounce lap. Care should be taken to see 
that the variation in the total weight 
of the laps delivered at the front of 
the finisher picker is not more than 
three-quarters of a pound from stand- 
ard weight for raw stock to make 
goods under description, and the 
amount of variation for the finer 
classes of goods should not exceed 
one-half a pound from standard. When 
laps are found to vary more than 
above noted, they should be placed at 
the back of the finisher picker and run 
over. If a great degree of variation is 
found, i. e., if the standard is 40 
pounds, and laps are delivered which 
weigh 39%, 41, 39, 40%, and so on, it 
shows that the picker needs adjust- 
ment, and on all makes of machines 
there are devices to regulate these 
small variations. The laps are put up 
at the card and the draft of this ma- 
chine should not exceed 100. 

THE WIRE FILLET 

should be coarser, so as to stand the 
pressure of the weight and amount of 
cotton to be passed through. This 
wire should be kept sharp by frequent 
grindings with the grinding rollers. 
The weight of the sliver should be 
about 65 grains to the yard and the 
production of a card for 60 hours on 



this class of goods should be not less 
than 850 pounds. The cotton is put 
through two processes of drawing. The 
speed of the front roller in each case 
should be 400 revolutions per minute. 
On this grade of cotton it would be of 
great advantage if metallic rolls were 
used. The weight of the sliver at the 
front of the finisher drawing frame 
should be about 70 grains to the yard. 
The sliver at the drawing frames 
should be weighed about three times a 
day to see that it is the proper weight. 
The slubber roving should weigh about 
.50 hank. Only one process of fly 
frames is used and the hank at this 
should be about 1.50. The roving is 
then carried to 

THE SPINNING ROOM, 

when it is spun to the required count 
yarn. The particulars to spin 12s on 
a warp frame are as follows: gauge of 
frame three inches; diameter of ring, 
2£ inches; length of traverse, 7 
inches; twist per inch, 16.45; speed of 
spindle, 9,000 revolutions per minute. 
The same particulars may be used for 
making 14s yarn with the following 
exceptions, that somewhat different 
particulars are required for the spin- 
ning frame. The warp yarn is then 
spooled and taken to the twister when 
it is made into 2-ply or 2-14s, as the 
case may be, after which it is sized 
at the slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BLACK. 

10 per cent immedial brilliant black 
B., 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per 
cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. 

For the threads of colored yarn 
which are mixed with the black and 
white, fast sulphur colors are dyed. 

For union yarn a one-dip aniline 
union black is generally dyed. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
10 per cent pyrogene indigo, 20 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 10 per cent soda 
ash, 35 per cent salt, 3 pints mineral 
oil 

LIGHT GREEN. 
8 per cent pyrogene green G., 16 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 6 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent salt. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



429 



OLD GOLD. 

4 per cent pyrol bronze, 2 per cent 
pyrol yellow, 6 per cent sulphide so- 
dium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

RED. 

5 per cent benzo fast red, 3 per cent 
sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
10 per cent thion brown G., 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. 
OLIVE. 
4 per cent immedial olive 3G., 1 per 
cent immedial cutch O., 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, 5 per cent 
sulphide sodium. 



FANCY SHIRTING 

Fancy shirting is a light-wight, sin- 
gle cloth wash fabric, weighing from 
two to three ounces per yard, and 
composed of regular, single, cotton 
yarns, l-26s to l-40s in warp and fill- 
ing. 

It is made in simple stripe patterns 
either printed on the woven, bleached 



ctaaananaaBDBDBD 

■naaGBBiJB«c:nBGB 

OBGBBGGBaaBBlBG 
BGBQBGBGBCBDBGB 
GBOBGBDBr.BGBGBG 
BOBDGBBCBBGGBGB 
DBGBBGGBGr BBGBG 
■□BGBGBGBOBDBDB 



□nnnDBcnrBGaGna 
naDDBG -laaaBGODG 

DBGBaanBGQDBDBa 

BGBGaaBGBaaaBQB 

Draft 

DGBBaaBBBGGBBGa 

BBGGBBGGGBBGCBB 
Reed 



DBGBDBDB 
BG^GBDBn 
DBGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 
GBGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBD 
I BGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 
Weave 

DCDBDOCa 
GGBGG BG 
GBGGCBGG 
BGnGHGOG 
Drawing- in- dra f t 

DDBBGGBB 

BBGGBBGG 

Reed Plan 



Idea for fancy weave 

fabric, or of fast colors, dyed upon 
the warp. Combinations of each are 
sometimes formed to create attractive 
styles. 

THE WEAVE 
used is either the plain L_ or this 
combined with a fancy rib or basket 
weave. 

Fancy shirting is made to retail' at 8 
to 12y 2 cents per yard, and is used 
in men's outing and working shirts, 
ladies' and children's waists, blouses 
and summer suits. It is from the con- 
sumer's standpoint a practically inex- 



pensive material, which, when the gar- 
ment becomes soiled, can become a 
part of the family wash and be readily 
renovated. 

Those grades in which the plain 
weave alone is used are best adapted 
to the plain single box loom. The 
fancy styles, in which a more elab- 
orate weave effect is desired, require 
a loom having a dobby. 

THE FAST WARP COLORS, 
generally used in connection with the 
bleached or white yarns to create a 
range of patterns for this fabric are: 
Dark blue, dark green, black, red, lav- 
ender, pink, ecru, tan, light green, 
light blue and violet. 

FINISHING. 
To finish this fabric the goods are 
taken from the loom and run through 
the washer, after which they are very 
lightly sized, then dried by the process 
of tentering (this also prevents undue 
shrinkage in width) . After drying run 
through the calender to press out 
wrinkles, also to bring up a clear, even 
face. Then the goods are ready to 
lap and fold in readiness for the ship- 
per. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4 square inches equals 4.18 grains. 

27 x 36 equals 972 x 4.18 equals 4,- 
062.96 divided by 4, equals 1,015.74 di- 
vided by 437.5 equals 2.319 ounces 
per yard, 27 inches wide. 

12 pieces blue warp times 1% equals 
18 inches equals .16 grains. 

18 x 7,000 equals 126,000 divided by 
.16 equals 787,500 divided by 
36 equals 21,878 divided by 
840 equals l-26s blue warp yarn (cot- 
ton). 

12 pieces white warp times iy 2 
equals 18 inches equals .16 grains. 

18 x 7,000 equals 126,000 divided by 
.16 equals 787,500 divided by 36 equals 
27,878 divided by 840 equals l-26s 
white warp yarn (cotton). 

19 pieces white filling times 2 equals 
38 inches equals .25 grains. 

19 x 7,000 equals 266,000 divided by 
.25 equals 1,064,000 divided by 36 
equals 29,833 divided by 804 equals 
l-36s white filling yarn (cotton). 

27 inches finished. 

Reed, 1,150 minus 29 inches minus 



430 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



2 ends per dent; 54 picks minus l-36s 
white cotton filling; l-26s cotton 
warp; 10 per cent take-up; 1,858 ends 
in warp plus 32 white selvage. 

WARP PATTERN. 
3 white. 
•1 light blue } _ tlmoa 
3 white. S 7 tlmes - 

1 light blue. 
3 white. 

2 white in 1 heddle. 
8 light blue. 

2 white in 1 heddle. 
47 ends per pattern, 39 repeats of pat- 
tern plus 25 ends. Start at *. 

16 blue ends per pattern times 39 
repeats equals 624 plus 7 equals 631 
blue ends. 

31 white ends per pattern times 39 
repeats equals 1,209 plus 18 plus 32 
ends selvage equals 1,250 white ends. 

631 blue ends l-26s plus 10 per cent 
equals 701 yards equals .513 ounces; 
1,250 white ends l-26s plus 10 per cent 
equals 1,388 yards equals 1.001 ounces; 
54 picks times 29 l-36s filling equals 
1,566 yards equals .828 ounces; total, 
2.342 ounces. 

Finish, wash, size, calender. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The fabric known as fancy shirting 
is made up of yarns, the counts of 
which vary from 20s to 60s, according 
to the mills making them, and also 
according to the grade being made 
For the particulars that will be de- 
scribed below we will consider that 
the shirtings are made up of l-26s 
warp and l-40s filling. It is not cus- 
tomary for both yarns to be made out 
of the same length of staple or grade 
of cotton, although in some instances 
this may be done. For the 40s yarn a 
good grade of raw stock of about 1% 
inches staple should be used and for 
the 20s yarn a cotton of about 1 1-16 
inch staple may be used with advan- 
tage. The raw stock in both cases 
should be put through the bale break- 
er and deposited in their different 
bins, being allowed to stand as long 
as possible before using. This is for 
the purpose of drying out the cotton, 
as it is easier to work when in this 
condition. An opener and two proc- 
esses of picking are generally used, 
although it is the custom in many 
mills to use three processes. When the 
latter is the case, the particulars given 



for the finisher picker may be used, 
except that the speed of the fan is not 
so great, also that the laps are of a 
little lighter weight. The hopper of 
the opener should be kept well filled 
so that an even amount of cotton will 
be always fed to the feed roll of the 
breaker picker. The speed of the beat- 
er (2 bladed rigid type) should be 
about 1,000 revolutions per minute; 
the fan, about 350 revolutions per min- 
ute. The speed of the beater of the 
breaker should be about 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute and for the finisher 
picker 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
This gives the cotton passing through 
about 42 beats per inch. The weight 
of lap at the breaker picker is 40 
pounds, or 16 ounces to the yard. At 
the finisher (and intermediate picker if 
used) the doublings are four into one. 
The roving cut waste is mixed at the 
back of the finisher picker in the usual 
manner. The weight of the laps at the 
delivery end of the finisher picker is 
35 pounds for the longer stapled cot- 
ton and 39 pounds for the shorter, or 
a 12% -ounce lap for the filling yarn 
and a 14% -ounce lap for the warp 
yarn. The cards are set about the 
same in both cases, except where they 
are required to be set according to the 
length of staple. 

The draft of the card should not 
exceed 100 for the warp yarn and 
should not be less than 100 for the 
filling yarn. As large a doffer as pos- 
sible should be used with both stocks, 
and the weight of the sliver should be 
about 65 grains. The production would 
be 750 pounds per week of 60 hours 
for the filling cotton and 850 pounds 
for the warp yarn. Always keep the 
wire sharp^ and never under any cir- 
cumstances allow it to become dull. 
Grind cylinder and doffer wire at least 
once a month for half a day and grind 
top flats twice a month with "dead 
roller." Strip cards three times a day, 
both cylinder and doffer. Some over- 
seers strip cylinders twice and doffers 
three or four times. This, they claim, 
saves time, as the doffer may be strip- 
ped while running and the sliver is 
not as uneven as when both doffer and 
cylinder are stripped at the same 
time. In the mills making fine yarns 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



431 



it is the general custom to strip three 
times a day. Three processes of draw- 
ing are used for both warp and filling. 
The only difference made in these ma- 
chines is that the rolls are spread dif- 
ferently for the different lengths of 
staple. The weight of the sliver should 
be about 70 grains in both cases. 

The slubber makes this sliver into 
50 hank roving, the standard twist be- 
ing obtained by multiplying the square 
of the hank roving by the constant 1. 
On the finer classes and long stapled 
cotton the front top rolls of the slub- 
ber are varnished, but this class of 
goods does not require this to be done. 
The roving for the warp yarns is put 
through two processes of fly frames, 
the hank at the first intermediate be- 
ing 1.50 and at the second interme- 
diate 3. The filling roving is put 
through two processes of fly frames, 
the hank roving at the first interme- 
diate being 2, and at the second in- 
termediate 5. The twist standard is 
obtained by multiplying the square 
root of the hank by 1.1 for both cot- 
tons. Take special care of your top 
rolls to see that they are in perfect 
condition and not channeled, cut, un- 
even, oil soaked, dry at the bearings, 
loose or unevenly weighted. Look out 
for the settings at all fly frame rolls. 
The roving is carried to the spinning 
room, where it is drawn into the re- 
quired count. For 26s count warp yarn 
a frame with the following particulars 
may be used: Gauge of frame 21 
inches, diameter of ring 1| inches, 
length of traverse 6% inches, twist 
per inch 24 plus, speed of spindle 9,- 
700 revolutions per minute. For a fill- 
ing making 40s the particulars have 
been given in a previous lesson. The 
warp yarn is then spooled, warped and 
run through a slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
DARK BLUE. 
5 per cent immedial blue O, 5 per 
cent immedial blue CR., 1 per cent 
immedial black NN., 10 per cent so- 
dium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 
3 per cent soda ash. 

DARK GREEN. 
15 per cent thiogene green B., 15 



per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent 
soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. 
BLACK. 
15 per cent melanogen black G, 15 
per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent 
soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. 
RED. 
6 per cent primuline, diazotized and 
developed with beta naphthol. 
LAVENDER. 
\i per cent diamine blue 3 R. pat., 
after-treated with y 2 per cent sulphate 
of copper at 160 degrees F. 
PINK. 
y 2 per cent diamine rose BD., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
ECRU. 
2 per cent katigen yellow brown 
GG., 2 per cent sodium sulphide, 20 
per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent soda 
ash. 

TAN. 

5 per cent thion brown G., 5 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda ash, 
20 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT GREEN 
on a tannin and tartar emetic mor- 
dant. Dye y 2 per cent thioflavine T. y 2 
per cent new methylene blue GG. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
2 per cent immedial sky blue, 2 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda 
ash, 20 per cent Glauber's. 
VIOLET. 
1 per cent diamine blue 3 R. pat., 
after-treated with % per cent sulphate 
of copper at 160 degrees F. 
♦« » 



TAPE 



Tape is a very narrow fabric, com- 
posed of either cotton or linen yarns 
in warp and filling, and usually made 
with a point or broken twill weave, 
the break in the weave occurring in 
the center of tne tape, and the twill 
lines running in a right and left hand 
direction. 

It is made of all bleached yarns. It 
is made of regular yarns about l-26s 
to l-30s and l-40s cotton and is used 
as a trimming, in the manufacture of 
clothing, also as a binding in innu- 



432 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



merable cases, such as paper boxes, 
etc., and is sold by the roll, each roll 
containing a certain number of yards 

A fair grade of tape weighs about 20 
yards per pound. 

This fabric is woven in a broad loom 
having a light dobby head motion at- 
tached, similar to that which is used 
on a haircloth loom. 

In weaving this fabric, the loom Is 
arranged to produce several rolls at 
the same operation, it being very nar- 
row. There are perhaps 20 rolls all 
weaving at once, as the warp yarn for 



which it is wound into rolls and is 
ready to pack and ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
Reed, 1,650 minus % inches width 

in reed, 59 ends, 46 picks, - point 

twill, 30 ends minus 29 ends left. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn used to make 
tape vary from 20s to 40s, according 
to the grade of tape required. In this 
article we will consider the warp yarn 
to be l-36s and the filling l-40s. 



□nMngaBnauuuHnnHOGHanHnnannHnnHnnnnnHnDHnnMnDiH 
gHanBaDaHDOBHnGBHnoHanBBDOHaar«BDOuanBBaDH«nDHBnDHaaB 

BBaaBBaDBBGGaBGaBBGGBBaaBBaaBBCBBGGBBaaBBaaBBGGBB. CBBCGBBGG 
BaaBBaOBBDaBBGaBBaDBBDnBBanBBDDaBBaaBBaUBBnDBBaDBBDDBBDDBBD 
QOBBnDBBaDBBJDBBODBBCCBBnDBBanBnnBBOOBBQClBaaCBBGQBBQDBBOCBB 
DaBaOBBnaBBnQaflDDBBDDrflOOBBaGflBBDGBBOOBBnOBBODHBDGBBDOBBOQB 
BBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGBBGGBVGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGD 
•GaBBGGBBQGflBGGBBGGBBGGBaGGBBGGQBflGGBBGQBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBa 

Design. 

□□□BaaDBonGBaaaBaaaBaaaBGaaBaaaaaBaaGBaoQBGaaBaa^BaaaBanaBa 

ODBOODBDQGBDG~BGQCBCGCHGGaBGaDB "GCBQGGBCa BaGGBGaaBGGQBQaaB 

OBnanBDanBnn^BDnnBnnDB~a _ BDDnBGB"incB - i _ CB~GGBGCcBGG~BnnGBGna 
BaaaBaaaBaaaBaaaBGaaBaaGBaGaBacaBGDaBaaaBDQDBaDDBDCDBnaaBGa 

Drawing-in draft. 

GnBBGDBBnaBaaDflBGGBBGGBBGGflBGGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBflGGBBGDBBna 
■BaDBBaDBBaDBBGGBBGGBBaGBBGGflBBGGBBGGBBGGBflGGflflGGaBaGBBGGfl^ 
Reed plan. 



□DBB 

cbbg 
■■an 

BDOB 
□DBB 
OBBC1 

■ ■DO 
BGGB 

Weave 



each roll is beamed upon a small 
spool, thereby acting independently of 
every other roll on the same loom. The 
warps are all drawn through the same 
harness or heddles, which are worked 
from the dobby motion. 

The peculiar and important part of 
a tape loom is the. filling arrangement 
or shuttle motion. 

Being a one-shuttle fabric, each 
warp has its separate shuttle, all the 
shuttles being operated at the same 
time, and by one motion. The shuttle, 
in traveling from one box to its mate, 
describes a half moon movement, and 
this is accomplished by a sliding rod 
beneath the race board, and so set that 
at each pick of the loom the rod moves 
from left to right and on the next 
pick right to left, and for each piece 
of tape being woven there must neces- 
sarily be a shuttle, and for each shut- 
tle there is an attachment placed on 
the aforesaid rod in such a position 
that the rod in moving causes the said 
attachment to move the shuttle from 
one box to the other in the same di- 
rection as the rod is taking. 

Tape requires as a finish, washing 
and drying on the cylinder, after 



These counts of yarn would be made 
in the second division of mills as giv- 
en in a previous lesson. For this fab- 
ric the yarn would be made out of 
a medium-grade cotton of from 1 to 
1 1-16 inches in length. The bales of 
raw stock would be brought to the 
mixing room and stapled, and those 
bales of the same length of staple 
would be opened and run through a 
bale breaker (if the mill contained 
one, or through a willow, or it may be 
mixed by hand) and passed by suitable 
means to 

THE MIXING BIN. 

It should be allowed to stand here as 
long as possible, so that the cotton 
may be opened up to the air, which 
dries it, and makes it easier to work 
than when it is not allowed to stand 
in the bins. At this point the good 
waste from the pickers, cards and 
drawing frames should also be mixed 
in with the raw stock. The cotton is 
then put through an opener and either 
two or three processes of picking, gen- 
erally two. If three processes of pick- 
ing are used, the intermediate process 
presents almost the same particulars 
as the finisher picker. In this in- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



433 



stance, we will consider that only 
two processes of picking are 
used. The hopper should be kept 
as nearly full as possible, so that an 
even lap may be made. The cotton is 
fed to the feed rolls of the breaker 
picker, and after passing comes under 
the action of the beater which, if it is 
a rigid two-bladed type, should make 
about 1,450 revolutions per minute, the 
speed of the fan being about 1,050 
revolutions per minute. The weight 
of the lap at the front should be about 
40 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The 
doublings at the finisher picker are 4 
into 1. The speed of the fan should 
be about 1,450 revolutions per minute, 
and the fan 1,100 revolutions per min- 
ute. This gives the cotton sheet about 
42 beats per inch fed. Watch your 
drafts. The weight of the lap at tbe 
front should be about 39 pounds or a 
14^ -ounce lap. When roving waste is 
mixed with the raw stock, it should 
first be put through 

A SPECIAL PROCESS 

to take out the twist, and through a 
breaker picker to make laps, and these 
laps are put up behind the finisher 
picker. These laps are mixed with 
the raw stock in a proportion of one 
lap roving waste to three laps of raw 
stock. The laps are put up at the 
card, the draft of which should not 
be less than 100. In speaking of cards 
we refer to the so-called English card 
and not the American card. The wire 
fillet of this card should be about No. 
34 wire on cylinder and No. 35 wire 
on doffer and flats. This is equivalent 
to 110s and 120s, English count, and 
gives 79,200 points per square inch 
for cylinder and 86,400 points per 
square inch for doffer and top flats. 
Grind the wire so as to keep it sharp 
and strip three times a day. 

THE SLIVER 

at the front of the card should weigh 
about 65 grains per yard and a pro- 
duction of 800 pounds should be turn- 
ed off for a week of 60 hours. 

Use as large a doffer as possible, 
either a 26 or 27 inch one. The sliver 
is put through three processes of 
drawing frames, doubling six into one, 
the speed of the front roll being 400 



revolutions per minute, and the weight 
of sliver at the finisher drawing 70 
grains to the yard. Always keep a 
stock of freshly varnished rolls on 
hand, so that if those in the frames 
become worn or damaged in any way 
they may be replaced at once. All the 
rolls should be varnished and changed 
at least once every two weeks. Draw- 
ing frames should be cleaned at least 
once a month. The settings of 

THE DRAWING FRAME ROLLS 
should be looked after frequently to 
see that they have not slipped. The 
sliver is then passed to the slubber 
which draws and twists it into .50 
hank roving. Watch your leather cov- 
ered rolls to see that they are per- 
fect. The roving is then put through 
three processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at the first intermediate being 
1.50, at the second 3.50 hank and at 
the jack, 9 to 9.50 for both counts of 
yarn, the doublings being two into one 
in every case. Use the standard mul- 
tiplier for twist previously given. The 
roving is then taken to the spinning 
room and made into the required 
count. The particulars for a warp yarn 
of 36s count are as follows: Gauge 
of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
11 inches; length of traverve, QV 2 
inches; speed of spindle, 10,200 revo- 
lutions per minute. 



MERCERIZED VESTING 

Mercerized vesting is either a light 
or heavy weight cotton wash fabric 
weighing from 5 to 8 ounces per yard 
finished, and is made of one, two or 
three warps and one or two fillings. 
When made of one warp and filling, a 
light weight can be produced in case 
the warp and filling are both mercer- 
ized yarns. 

The warp for the face of the cloth 
ranges from 2-20s to 2-60s mercerized 
cotton, and the filling from l-10s to 
l-16s cotton. 

The styles range from granite and 
basket weave effects in solid white, to 
the more elaborate figured patterns, 
such as are created by forming spots 
on the face of the cloth, from warp 
effect diamond, cross and curved twill 
weaves, so arranged as to scatter the 



434 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 




■■■ ■>■ aaa bm aaa aaa ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■■■■■»■ 

■ ■ ■■■■■■■■■■■a aaaaaa. 

*S. ■■■■■■. a. a aaaaaaa 

a aaa aaa aaa aaa aaa ■■■ aaa aaa ■■■ aaa aaa •■■ aaa 188888888 

: I I !.;::::::: : us:::: 

■ ...... ... aaa aaa aaa ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ■-•■]-■■- 

aaa.. la ■■■■■■ ..aaa..™ 

.. Y .... Y .. | .„... s .. Y ...... j ....... ! ... ! ... s ... ! ssss;,s: 

T T T T T T T 'i " "t V T H!&* 

rnryvrn — i-v — rrmm 



i i a 



a aa.aaaai 

aa. aaa aaa aaa Mia ... ... aaa 



/ a 
..aaaasaiaa alaaBBaaaaaiaaala.aaaa.aH .■■■..laaa.ian. aaaaaa 

a a.. ..a ... ■■■ ... aaa aa. aaaaaaa 

a a a a ■ a ..a. a. a. 



Harness Chain. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



435 



design in regular formation, in imita- 
tion of jacquard designs. 

ADDING WEIGHT. 

The extra back warp is for the pur- 
pose of adding weight to the fabric, 
also permitting greater scope in face 
weave effects, the idea being to so ar- 
range the face weave as to thoroughly 
cover the coarse filling, the back 
warp binding the filling into the cloth 
under the figure floats of the face 
weave. 

In making a vesting having a back 
warp, always use a two-ply yarn for 
this warp, as a single yarn will bead 
in the weaving, which means a loss of 
time every few hours in removing 
same, and the warp will not shed prop- 
erly when the yarn is beaded, which 
causes the reed to cut the yarn. The 
quickest way to remove the beads 
from the yarn in the shed is to loosen 
the top of the reed cap, and lay the 
reed upon the cloth. The beads may 
then be either cut off, or drawn 
through the reed. If the latter method 
is used, the beads form a line of small 
lumps upon the face of the cloth, from 
one selvage to the other. While this 
in itself is not a serious imperfection, 
it means that the cloth must be cut at 
this point to remove the lumps, which 
to a certain extent destroys tae utility 
of the piece in manufacturing the gar- 
ments. 
EITHER A DOBBY OR JACQUARD. 

This fabric can be woven on either 
the dobby or jacquard loom. Most of 
the popular imported jacquard effects 
can be imitated successfully on the 
dobby loom, having either single or 
double box filling motion. It is best 
adapted to the Knowles Gem Harness 
loom, or the Fairmount, 4x1, box 
loom, having the Ingraham head mo- 
tion attached. 

To finish this fabric, the cloth goes 
from the loom to the measuring ma- 
chine, after which it is scoured, dur- 
ing which operation the goods are run 
through a solution of soap and cold 
water to remove all stains such as 
mill dirt and grease spots. After wash- 
ing it is calendered or pressed, and 
each piece is folded and doubled up in 
heavy paper and tied with a cheap tape. 
It is then ready to pack and ship. 



! ; | 




"1 




1 


' I H 


-j n H Ek_ 






K 


H 




| 






■ 


, 


. 






'. 










jn 




, 




J 1 






1 


H 


|r 














| 






| 








n (_ 




I 


■ L 


■ j 




i 


Jb. 


1 B 




in 








i ' 


i 


i _ff 




■ j r i 


■ j ■ 




. 


■ n 1 ■ " 




. 


■ L "T 1 




Jm 1 


■ ""■" i "j n ■ ji 





Reed Plan. Drawing-in Draft. 



436 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



A style having great vogue in the 
spring of 1904 was a mixed effect, pro- 
duced by using an all white mercer- 
ized warp, and black mercerized fill- 
ing, the ground weave being 1 up, 1 
down, and the figure, small, double- 
headed triangles. 

Reed, 700 minus 30 inches in reed 4 
.ends per dent in reed; 2-20s white 
mercerized warp, 2-20s black mercer- 
ized filling; 48 picks. Weight about 
iy 2 ounces. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

62 ends face finished, 31 ends back 
finished, equals 93. 

1 square inch equals 3 grains; 60 
picks finished; 29 x 36 equals 1,044 x 
3 equals 3,132 divided by 1 equals 3,- 
132 divided by 437.5 equals 7.16 ounces 
per yard. 

"- — - face ends, back ends. 
30 inches in reed including selvage; 
29 inches finished. Scour and calender. 

16 pieces mercerized face yarn times 
3 inches equals 48x7,000 equals 336,000 
divided by .95 grains equals 353,684 
divided by 36 equals 9,824.5 divided by 
840 equals 11.69 or 2-20s mercerized 
yarn. 

8 pieces back yarn times 2 equals 16 
x7,000 equals 112,000 divided by .18 
equals 62,444 divided by 36 equals 17,- 
345.5 divided by 840 equals 20.64 or 
2-40s back warp yarn. 

17 pieces filling yarn times 2 equals 
34x7,000 equals 238,000 divided by .7 
equals 340,000 divided by 36 equals 9,- 
444 divided by 840 equals 11.24 or l-12s 
filling yarn. 

3 pieces fancy color (spot) yarn 
times 3 equals 9x7,000 equals 63,000 
divided by .1 equals 630,000 divided by 
36 equals 17,500 divided by 840 equals 
20.8 or 2-40s extra warp (for figuring) 
yarn. 

30 inches in reed, 30 dents per inch 
in reed, 900 minus 10 splits equals 890 
splits, 40 ends 2-40s cotton selvage, 76 
ends in repeat of pattern equals 23 
repeats plus 32 ends. 

1,780 ends 2-20s mercerized face 
ends, 890 ends 2-40s cotton back ends, 
40 ends 2-40s cotton selvage ends, 
94 ends 2-40s cotton colored ends, 
equals 900 splits or 30 inches in reed. 



3 1-3 per cent contraction in width 
in weaving, 5 per cent take-up, 6 2-3 
per cent shrinkage in length in finish- 
ing. 

1,780 ends plus 5 per cent take-up 
equals 1,873.7 yards, 2-20s mercerized 
equals 3.568 ounces, 890 ends plus 5 
per cent take-up equals 936.8 yards 2- 
40s cotton equals .892 ounces, 94 ends 
equals 94 yards 2-40s cotton 
equals .009 ounces, 40 ends plus 
5 per cent take-up equals 421 
yards 2-40s cotton equals .04 
ounces, 56 ends l-12s filling times 30 
inches equals 1,680 yards l-12s cotton 
equals 2.666 ounces; total, 7.175 ounces 
finished. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn required to 
manufacture the fabric under descrip- 
tion would be made in the third or 
possibly in the second division of 
mills, as given in a previous lesson. 
It will be understood that a great 
many grades of fancy vestings are 
made and that the range of the counts 
of the yarns is also varied. For this 
article we will consider that the warp 
yarn count is 2-60s and that the fill- 
ing yarn is 16s count. The grade of 
cotton used for the finer count should 
be good and the length of the staple 
about 1| inches. For the coarser yarn 
a cotton with the staple of 1 inch may 
be used. The two different cottons 
would be 

TREATED ALIKE 

up to a certain point and unless other- 
wise noted what is said may be ap- 
plied to both cottons. The cotton raw 
stock should be first brought to the 
bale breaker and there stapled and 
graded by the overseer and all bales 
not up to the proper standard laid 
aside. Several bales should be open- 
ed and placed around the bale break- 
er and fed to this machine alternately; 
that is, first a section from one bale 
and then a section from another, until 
all the cotton is fed, and not one bale 
fed until it is all gone. By the first 
method a more even mixing is obtain- 
ed. Two processes of picking and an 
opener are generally used, and after 
allowing the cotton to stand in the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



437 



bins as long as possible, where the 
good sliver waste from the cards, sliv- 
er lap and ribbon lap machines, 
combs, drawing frames and slubber is 

MIXED WITH THE RAW STOCK, 

the cotton is fed to the hopper of the 
opener. This machine is really the 
first machine that evens the cotton so 
that a certain weight of cotton will be 
delivered for a certain length. In or- 
der to accomplish this the hopper 
should be kept as nearly full as pos- 
sible, so that the lifting apron will al- 
ways be loaded. The speed of the 
beater of this machine is about 1,050 
revolutions per minute, having a fan 
speed of 350 revolutions per minute. 
The cotton is delivered from this ma- 
chine to the feed rolls of the breaker 
picker. The speed of a rigid two-blad- 
ed type of beater should be about 1,- 
500 revolutions per minute, the fan 
speed being 1,400 revolutions per min- 
ute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
delivered at the front should be about 
40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap for the 
finer counts and 20 ounces for the 
coarser counts. The laps are then put 
up at the finisher picker and doubled 
four into one. It is at this point that 
the cut-roving waste is mixed in, this 
waste having gone through a special 
process to take out the twist. Mix 
one lap of cut waste to three of raw 
stock laps. The speed of the beater 
for this class of goods should not ex- 
ceed 1,450 revolutions per minute with 
a fan speed of about 1,100 revo- 
lutions per minute. This class of 
goods should not receive more 
than 42 beats per inch, and for 
the longer staple cotton the beats per 
inch should be dropped to 32 to 36. If 
the cotton receives too many beats it 
is apt to. put neps in and if not beaten 
enough, the dirt will not be taken out. 
The 

STANDARD WEIGHT 

of the finer yarn lap should be about 
35 pounds, or about 12 ounces per 
yard. The coarser yarn lap should 
weigh 39 pounds, or about 14 ounces 
per yard. The variation from the 
standard weight of laps should not be 
more than one-half pound either way, 



and laps which vary more than this 
should be run over. The laps are put 
up at the card, and the draft for the 
finer count should not be less than 100 
and the coarser one not over 100. 
Close settings should be used for the 
60s yarn, and some overseers speed up 
the top flats so that a greater amount 
of waste will be taken out. The same 
wire may be used for both counts, 
i. e., 34s (American number) for cyl- 
inder and 35 or 36s for top flats and 
doffer. Use as large a doffer as pos- 
sible. In the longer staples some over- 
seers slow down the 

SPEED OF THE LICKER-IN. 

They say that the speed of this part 
is too fast for long staples, and it 
tends to put neps into the cotton. The 
weight of the sliver for the 60s yarn 
should be about 50 grains, and for the 
16s about 65 grains per yard. The pro- 
duction for the finer yarn is 500 
pounds per week of 60 hours, and for 
the coarser yarn 65 grains per yard. 
Strip cards three times a day, al- 
though some overseers strip the dof- 
fer four times. The sliver for the finer 
yarn is combed and the coarser yarn 
goes direct to the drawing frame. We 
will first follow the 

COURSE OF THE COTTON 
for the 60s yarn. It is first put through 
the sliver lap machine, the doublings 
being 14 into 1, the weight of the lap 
being 300 grains per yard. Six of 
these laps are put up at the ribbon 
lap machine, the weight of lap at 
front being 260 grains per yard. The 
laps are then put up at the comber, 
the doublings being generally six into 
one, although eight into one is some- 
times used. The speed of the comber 
should be about 90 nips per minute, 
draft 29, percentage of waste taken 
out 18, and the weight of the sliver 
about 45 grains per yard. This sliver 
is then put through two processes of 
drawing, the doublings being 6 into 
1. The weight of the sliver at the fin- 
isher drawing frames is 70 grains per 
yard. See that your drawing frames 
are well oiled, the top rolls being oiled 
twice a day, but also see that no oil 
gets on the leather. See that all 
weights are properly adjusted and the 



438 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



trumpet holes the right size, also that 
the stop motions are all adjusted 
properly. The sliver is then passed to 
the slubber, where it is drawn into 
.50 hank roving. It then passes 

THROUGH THREE PROCESSES 

of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing at the first interme- 
diate being 1.50, and the second 
4.00 hank, and at tbe jack frame 13 
hank. The sliver for 16s is put through 
three processes of drawing, the weight 
of sliver at the finisher drawing being 
70 grains per yard, the hank roving 
at the slubber .50. This roving is only 
put through two processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving being made 
at the first about 1.50, at the second 
4.00 hank. The doublings in all cases 
are 2 into 1. The roving is passed to 
the 

RING SPINNING ROOM, 

when it is made into 60s count. The 
following particulars would be used 
for a frame spinning this count: 
Gauge of spindles, 2| inches; diameter 
of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of trav- 
erse, 5 inches; revolutions per minute 
of spindles, 10,000; twist per inch, 34.- 
68. For filling, either mule or ring 
frames may be used. If ring frames 
are employed, use the following par- 
ticulars: Gauge of spindle, 2| inches; 
diameter of ring, \y 2 inches; length 
of traverse, 6y 2 inches. The warp yarn 
is then twisted into 2-ply 60s at the 
twister, then spooled and put into the 
warper, where it is warped on beams, 
and from here is passed to the 
slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Following are the dyeing particulars 
for mercerized vesting: 

Dyed mercerized yarn for spots. 
RED. 

Turkey red, or primuline red, primu- 

6 per cent primuline red, 30 per cent 
line red dyeing. 

Glauber's, diazotized \y 2 pounds ni- 
trate soda, 5 pounds sulphuric acid de- 
veloped, two pounds beta naphthol, 
well rinsed and soaped twice and rins- 
ed in hot water. 



SKY BLUE. 

5 per cent immedial sky blue, 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well, 
and give a soap bath, rinse well and 
dry. 

NAVY BLUE, 

8 per cent immedial dark blue B., 8 
per cent sulphide soda, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well, 
soap and rinse in hot water, and dry. 

BROWN. 
10 per cent thion brown G., 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse and 
soap as above blue. 

DARK GREEN. 
10 per cent katigen dark green 2B., 

2 per cent katigen blue black B., 2 per 
cent katigen yellow GG., 14 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 

3 per cent soda ash, rinse and soap as 
above. 

OLIVE. 

8 per cent pyrogene olive G., 8 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse and 
soap as above. 

MAROON. 

10 per cent immedial Bordeaux G., 
10 per cent sodium sulphide, 28 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash, 
rinse and soap as above. 
BLACK. 

15 per cent immedial black NN., 15 
per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash, rinse 
and soap as above. 



JEAN 



Jean is a narrow, hard-faced cotton 
fabric, weighing from 4 to 4y 2 ounces 
per yard, and is usually made of a 
hard-twisted warp yarn, about l-20s 
cotton, and either a wool or a wool 
shoddy filling. The fabric is made with 
a small, uneven-sided twill weave, 

warp effect face, viz.: : 45° twill, 

the cloth being of a slate black color. 

Jean is used principally in the man- 
ufacture of ready-to-wear trousers, re- 
tailing at 85 cents to $1 per pair, for 
workmen who perform hard, rough 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



439 



and dirty work, and who do not wear 
overalls. For this purpose it is the 
most serviceable fabric on the market, 
the garment when worn being popu- 
larly known as Kentucky jean, which 
has this distinct advantage, that upon 



□BB3BBOBBOBB 

BBOBBUBaOBBO 
BQBBCIBBOBBDB 
DBBDBBDBBaBB 
BBOBBDBBDBBU 
BDBBOBBaBBDfl 
DBBOBBOBBOBB 
BBDBBDBBDBBD 
BDBBDBBQBBGB 

Weave 



nDBDnBODBDCB 

rBDaBDaBDDBD 

BDDBDaBDDBDa 

Drawing-ID Draft 



□.GBBDDBBaDBI 

bbddbbddbbqc: 

-( Reed Plan 



its becoming soiled, a good washing 
will readily cleanse and remove all 
dirty marks, and apparently toughen 
the cloth, although causing it to shrink 
somewhat. 

"KENTUCKY JEANS" 
are worn by laborers, railroaders, 
moulders, machinists, loom fixers, gen- 
eral male mill help, etc., and with 
a small amount of care will wear well 
for two or three years. 

Jean is made with one warp and one 
filling, and can be woven in any single 
box loom. 

The warp yarn is generally of a 
cheap grade of cotton, and receives 
about two extra turns of twist per 
inch, in excess of the required amount 
of twist in the regular yarn of a sim- 
ilar count. It is this fact which causes 
jean as a fabric to have such a hard 
feel. 

The filling is usually a mixture, con- 
taining about 40 per cent cotton and 
60 per cent wool shoddy, the yarn be- 
ing spun on the woolen principle. 

The wool shoddy is made by picker- 
ing and carding dark colored woolen 
rags, after which the cotton and shod- 
dy are made into a mixing of relative 
proportions and the lot run through the 
mixing picker. The stock is then card- 
ed and spun, the yarn receiving suf- 
ficient filling twist, the result being a 
dark colored, lofty thread, a suitable 
filling for this fabric jean. 

The warp is dyed a rather grayish 
black, with cheap dry color, and the 
warp and filling colors combined in 
the weaving produce a fabric of a de- 
cidedly slate black appearance. 

Jean receives a dry finish, being 



brushed, sheared and pressed, after 
which it is rolled or lapped, then pack- 
ed into cases, for shipment. 
CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed 800—30% inches plus 2 ends 
per dent, 10 per cent take-up in weav- 
ing, 36 picks l-20s cut wool shoddy, 
l-20s cotton warp. 

Finish equals 27 inches. 

44.4 x 30% equals 1,354 ends plus 10 
per cent equals 1,480 yards l-20s cot- 
ton warp equals 1.41 ounces. Warp, 
36 picks times 30% equals 1,098 yards, 
l-20s cut wool shoddy equals 2.92 
ounces filling. 

1.41 ounces warp, 2.92 ounces filling 
equals 4.33 ounces. 

4.33 ounces weight, 27 inches wide. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarn used for this class of goods 
is constructed bv two entirely different 
systems. The filling is generally com- 
posed of a mixture of wool or wool 
shoddy and cotton. The filling yarn is 
therefore made in a woolen mill. It is 
understood that entirely different ma- 
chines are used, and the method of 
mixing is entirely different from that 
used in a cotton mill, although the 
names of the machines in many in- 
stances are alike. The warp yarn is 
made of all-cotton stock and is there- 
fore spun into yarn in a cotton mill, 
and below will be found the carding 
and spinning particulars for making 
this count of yarn of jean fabric. Of 
course, these may and are deviated 
from in many mills, but not to any 
great extent. 

THE RAW STOCK 
generally used is of a low grade and 
about one inch in staple. This class 
of yarn is spun in mills of the first di- 
vision, as given in a previous lesson, 
and the mixing would be done by 
hand. The bales of cotton would be 
sampled, and all those of the same 
length put into the mixing bin. Fo" 
this class of goods a small percentage 
of comber waste is sometimes mixed 
with the raw stock, and some mills 
use the card waste. The percentage 
is generally small, however. The gooi 
waste from the pickers, cards and 
drawing frames is always used and 



440 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



mixed at this point. The raw stock is 
run through an opener and two proc- 
esses of picking. 

The hopper should always be kept 
full. The speed of the beater should 
be 1,050 revolutions per minute, and 
the fan 350 revolutions per minute. 
The speed of the breaker picker beat- 
er is about 1,500 revolutions per min- 
ute, the fan speed being 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. 

THE WEIGHT OF LAP 

at the front of this machine is about 
40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard. 
The doubling at the finisher picker is 
four into one and the speed of the 
beater (two-bladed rigid type) 1,450 
revolutions per minute, which gives 
the cotton passing through it about 42 
beats per inch. The speed of the fan 
is about 1,100 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of the total lap is about 39 
pounds, or 14 *£ ounces to the yard. 
Clean out from under the pickers fre- 
quently, so that the fly will not col- 
lect and be drawn back into the good 
clean cotton passing through. 

The draft of this picker should be 
about 2.75. The laps are then put up 
at 

THE CARD. 

This machine should not have a 
draft of more than 100. The doffer 
should be as large as possible and the 
wire fillet used should be No. 33 wire 
(American count) for cylinder and No. 
34 for doffer and flats. The flats make 
one revolution about every 45 min- 
utes. The cards should be stripped 
three times a day and ground once a 
month. The weight of the sliver 
should be 65 grains to the yard, and 
the production for a week of 60 hours 
should be between 950 and 1,000 
pounds. This sliver is then run 
through 

TWO PROCESSES 
of drawing frames. The settings used 
at one mill for this stock and staple 
are as follows: Front roll to second, 
1 X A, second to third, 1%, and third to 
back, 1% inches. The doublings at 
this machine are six into one and the 
speed of the front roller 400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The draft at the 
finisher machine is about 5.75. The 



weight of the sliver should be about 
75 grains per yard. The drawing 

sliver should be sized at least twice a 
day and four times would be much 
better. 

The sliver is then drawn into .50 
hank roving by the slubber and three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing being as follows: 1.50 at the first 
intermediate, 3.50 at the second, and 
8.00 at the jack frame. The usual care 
should be given to the rolls, etc., and 

THE ROVING 
at the jack frame should be sized once 
a day. The roving is then put through 
a warp spinning frame, the particulars 
being as follows: Gauge of frame, 21 
inches; diameter of rings, two inches ; 
length of traverse, seven inches. This 
yarn is hard twisted and receives 
about two complete turns more per 
inch than are usually used for cloth 
yarn; that is, the regular twist per 
inch for this count is 21.24 turns per 
inch, but for this cloth is 23.24. The 
speed of the spindle is about 9,400 
revolutions per minute. This yarn is 
taken to the spoolers and spooled 
from the spools, is warped and put 
through the slasher. A good sizing is 
made as follows: Water, 100 gallons; 
potato starch, 70 pounds; tallow, four 
pounds; turpentine, one pint. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
DARK SLATE. 
2y 2 pounds thion black G., 2% 
pounds sulphide sodium, one pound 
soda ash, 20 pounds salt. 
BLACK. 
15 pounds thion black G., 15 pounds 
sulphide sodium, three pounds soda 
ash, 30 pounds salt. 



CRETONNE 

Cretonne is a light-weight single 
cloth, all- cotton fabric, weighing from 
2 to 5 ounces per yard, and composed 
of yarns ranging from l-40s to l-20s 
in the warp and l-20s to l-7s in the 
filling. 

It is usually woven with either the 

plain weave ' — , - — - t , twill 45 de- 
gree, or a fancy effect resembling a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



441 



granite weave, such as is used as a 
foundation weave in dress goods. The 
fabric is woven with either an all 
bleached or gray cotton warp and fill- 
ing, the patterns being fancy stripes 
and allover floral effects printed in 
bright colors upon one side of the 
goods. 

This gives the printed or face side 
of the fabric somewhat the appear- 
ance of an elaborately figured jac- 
quard design. Those colors found most 
effective for this purpose are bright 



nnnnnDHanaa 


OODDQDDDODDB 


■aanaaaBaoH 


DnDDDDaDDDBD 


■aoHDcoHon 


□DDDDannoBna 


aoamoomarMMU 


aDanaDDDBaaa 


anaamnmnuuma 


nanannnBDnDa 


■■aaQiDnBDOD 


DDaaaDBannDa 


OOBQOQBBBOOB 


naaaaBODDDnn 


onaaanaoorBB 


□onaBrionnnaa 


BOOBBBOUOBm 


DDGBaaDDDDDa 


BBDOBPDBCIDOB 
□□BBDOOBBCIDB 


DnBDnDDDDDDa 


nBannna dddo 


ODBQOBOOBBBn 


BnaaDDDDnana 


DBDIOBBBDOBD 


Drawing-in-Draft 


nODBDnBOOBBB 


BnriBBBnnDBDii 


DDBBaDBBODBB 


BBBDDBDDBDDO 


BBDDBBaDBBDD 


Dealgn 


Reed Plan 


Harness chain 


same as design. 



and medium shades of red, blue, green, 
yellow, etc., and a good jet black. 

Cretonne is made in widths from 25 
to 36 inches, the narrow grades being 
the lightest in weight. 

The various grades are used for 
couch covers, draperies, lambrequins 
and comfortables or bed quilts. 
THE WEAVING. 

Being a one- shuttle fabric, plain 
weave or twilled, cretonne can be wo- 
ven on the single box loom. The fancy 
grades in which mixed weaves are de- 
sired necessitate the use of looms with 
a dobby or head motion attached. The 
warp for cretonne, being either gray 
or bleached yarn, is prepared in a 
manner similar to that of weaving a 
plain ordinary sheeting. 

Those grades in which the plain 
weave or ? twill weave are used 

3 

are drawn in and woven upon four 
harnesses. If, however, a fancy weave 
is desired, the warp must be drawn in 
and woven upon a number of har- 
nesses, in accordance with the num- 
ber of ends in one repeat of weave de- 
sired. 

As printing the colored pattern upon 
this fabric constitutes the finish there- 
of, the goods are taken from the 
loom and run through the brushing 



machine, to remove all dust, dirt or 
loose ends. 

THE FIGURED PATTERN 
to be produced upon the cloth has 
been engraved upon bronze rollers, 
which have been set up in the printing 
machine. The colors are fed automati- 
cally to the rollers, which, in revolv- 
ing, register the colors upon the face 
of the cloth, as it passes between 
them. The cloth is then dried by be- 
ing run through heated rollers or 
drums, and the fabric is then ready to 
be folded into suitable lengths to be 
packed and shipped. 

Four square inches equals 7.95 
grains. 

29 x 36 equals 1,044 x 7.95 equals 8,- 
299.80 divided by 4 equals 2,074.95 di- 
vided by 437.5 equals 4.742 ounces per 
yard, 29 inches wide. 

20 pieces white warp yarn x 2*& 
inches equals 50 inches equals 
.55 grains, 50 x 7,000 equals 350,000 di- 
vided by .55 equals 836,363 divided by 
36 equals 17,399 divided by 840 equals 
l-20s cotton warp yarn. 

12 pieces white filling yarn times 4 
inches equals 48 inches equals 1.55 
grains. 

48 x 7,000 equals 336,000 divided by 
1.55 equals 216,774 divided by 36 
equals 6,021.5 divided by 840 equals 
l-7s cotton filling yarn. 

15 cents per yard, 29 inches finished. 
CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 900 minus 30 1-3 inches minus 
2 ends per dent, 52 ends per inch fin- 
ished, 40 picks per inch finished 
equals 50 ends in reed, 38 picks in 
loom, 10 per cent take-up in weaving. 

52 x 29 equals 1,508 plus 10 per cent 
equals 1,675 yards l-20s cotton warp 
yarn, 40 x 29 equals 1,160 yards l-7s 
cotton filling yarn, 1,675 yards, l-20s 
cotton warp equals 1,595 ounces, 1,160 
yards, l-7s cotton filling equals 3.156 
ounces equals 4.751 ounces. 

10 cents per yard, 25% inches qual- 
ity ? twill, four square inches 

equals 3.9 grains. 

25% x 36 equals 909 x 3.9 equals 
3545.1 divided by 4 equals 886.2 divid- 
ed by 437.5 equals 2.025 ounces per 
yard, 25% inches wide. 



442 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The division of mills making cre- 
tonnes would be the second (or those 
mills equipped with machinery for 
making yarns the counts of which vary 
from 20s to 80s). The counts of yarn 
used for cretonne vary from l-20s to 
l-40s warp and from l-7s to l-20s fill- 
ing, according to the quality of cre- 
tonne required. In speaking of the 
second division of mills we do not 
mean to say that the count of yarn is 
always within these limits, but that 
when buying machinery, the specifica- 
tions for the different machines are 
made out according to whether the 
machines are to use low, medium or a 
fine grade of raw stock. Of course, it 
often happens that yarns of a lower 
or higher count are made on this ma- 
chinery, but the great bulk of the 
yarns turned off are within the limits. 
For example, take cretonne: All 
grades of cretonne may be made in 
the same mill, although the count of 
the yarn varies from 7s to 40s, or in 
some cases even a finer yarn than this 
is used. For this article we will con- 
sider that the filling yarn is l-20s and 
the warp yarn is l-40s. The length 
of staple used would be from 1 1-16 to 
1§ inches of a medium grade of cot- 
ton. The bales of raw stock would 
first be sampled and several bales of 
practically the same length of staple 
placed around the bale breaker and 
fed to this machine in small portions 
alternately from each bale. In this 
manner it is mixed better than if one 
entire bale was fed. 

If a bale breaker is not used the 
method would be just the same except 
that it would be done by hand. The 
lower count would use cotton of a 
length of 1 inch and the higher count 
1J inches. Both cottons would be put 
through an opener and two processes 
of picking. Keep your hopper of the 
opener well filled (over half full). The 
speed of the beater for both grades of 
cotton should be about 1,050 revolu- 
tions per minute; the speed of the fan 
about 350 revolutions per minute. See 
that your pin roller is always clean, 
because if the cotton is allowed to ac- 
cumulate, it cannot perform its duty 
properly. The cotton is fed to the 



feed rolls of the breaker beater and 
passed on to the beater, the speed of 
which should be about 1,050 revolu- 
tions per minute; a rigid two-bladed 
type. The total weight of the lap at 
the front should be about 40 pounds, 
or 16 ounces to the yard for both cot- 
tons. The laps are doubled at the fin- 
isher picker four into one, the cut rov- 
ing being mixed in at this point in the 
proportion of three laps of raw stock 
to one of bobbin waste. The speed of 
the beater should be about 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute with a fan speed 
of 1,100 revolutions per minute. This 
gives the cotton passing through about 
42 beats per inch. See that the grid 
bars under the beaters are properly 
set. The total weight of the lap at the 
front should be 39 pounds for the 
shorter staple cotton and 35 pounds 
for the longer, or a 14-ounce lap for 
the 1-inch staple and 12% -ounce lap 
for the 1%-inch staple cotton. 

Keep the picker room clean and al- 
ways calculate to have enough laps of 
each kind of cotton ahead so that if 
breakdowns occur the cards will not 
be stopped for want of laps. The draft 
of the finisher picker is about 3. The 
cards should be set as before de- 
scribed in a previous lesson, except 
that the feed plate should be set to 
the licker-in, according to the length 
of the staple. Cards should be strip- 
ped three times a day and ground at 
least once a month. The wire fillet 
should be made of 34 wire (or 110s 
English count) for cylinder and 35 (or 
120s English count) for doffer and fiats. 
Use as large a doffer as possible, say 
26 inches at least. The draft of the 
card should be about 100 for both 
stocks. The weight of the sliver at 
the front of the card should be about 
65 grains. The production should be 
825 pounds for the shorter staple and 
600 pounds for the longer one for a 
week of 60 hours. The card sliver is 
next put through three processes of 
drawing frames. A few of the more 
particular points to look out for are, 
scour the frames at least once a 
month, keep your leather top rolls in 
perfect condition and well oiled and 
varnished. See that all knock-off mo- 
tions are in working order to prevent 
single and double; keep the weight of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



443 



your sliver uniform by sizing it at 
least twice a day and three times a 
day for fine yarns, doubling six into 
one at all frames. The weight of the 
sliver at the finisher drawing should 
be about 70 grains per yard. The draw- 
ing sliver is drawn into .50 hank rov- 
ing at the slubber, the standard twist 
being found by multiplying the square 
root of hank by 1. The roving for the 
20s yarn goes through two processes 
of fly frames, the hank at the first in- 
termediate being 2 and at the second 
5 hank. The 40s yarn roving is put 
through three processes, the hank rov- 
ing at each process being as follows: 
first, 1.50; second, 3.50, and third, 9 
to 9.50 hank, the doublings at all 
frames being two into one. The sliver 
is then passed to the spinning room. 
In case the filling yarn is spun on a 
ring frame the following would be good 
particulars for the frame spinning 
20s: Gauge of frame 21 inches; diam- 
eter of ring, iy 2 inches; length of 
traverse, Qy 2 inches; speed of spindle, 
7,300 revolutions per minute; twist per 
inch, 14.50; and for a warp frame 
spinning 40s: gauge of frame, 21 
inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 6% inches; twist, 
28.45. The warp yarn is then spooled, 
warped and run through a slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
RED. 
5 per cent benzo fast red 4 BS., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda. 

YELLOW. 
2 per cent chrysophenine, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 
LIGHT BLUE. 

1 per cent diamine sky blue FF., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

1 per cent diamine fast yellow FF., 

1 per cent diamine sky blue PF., 30 

per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

ORANGE. 

2 per cent tetrazo orange CR., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. 

MAROON. 

3 per cent tetrazo corinth G., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 



HELIOTROPE. 
3 per cent heliotrope BB., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. On 
a tannin and tartar emetic mordant 
dye the four following shades: 
MALACHITE GREEN. 
2 per cent malachite green; also for 

MEDIUM BLUE. 
2 per cent methylene blue. 

PINK. 
1 per cent rhodamine 5G. 
PURPLE. 

1 per cent methyl violet 3B. 

BLACK. 
15 per cent thion black G., 15 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 5 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent salt. 

SLATE. 

2 per cent thion black G., 2 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

8 per cent thion brown G., 8 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent salt. 

DARK BROWN. 

12 per cent thion brown G., ^ per 
cent tnion black G., 12 per cent sodium 
sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per 
cent salt. 

Cretonnes are also printed with very 
large picture designs of very bright 
colors, of very strong contrast, gener- 
ally. Some styles are of a simple 
character with small flowers and twigs 
on a white or cream-colored ground. 

Other styles are of startling reds 
and other bright colors, on a dark 
brown, maroon or black ground, or on 
any dark colored ground to make a 
contrast. 

The colors are printed with fast 
alizarine or tannin colors, which will 
be fast to sunlight and washing. 
Brightness of shade is required in 
most cases. 

♦ » » 



SILESIA 



Silesia is a light-weight single cloth 
fabric, having a rather high texture, 
and weighing about three ounces per 
yard. It is composed of all ' cotton 



444 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



yarns l-30s to l-40s in warp and fiU 
ing and is usually made with a 2 — . 45 
degree right-hand twill weave. It is 
used principally as a lining for la- 
dies' and men's clothing. A 

VERY IMPORTANT FEATURE 

in connection with this fabric is the 
highly glazed or polished face of the 
goods, which is due to the action of 



dBBQBBDBBQBB 
BBDBBJBB_BBO 
■QIIDIIQIIDI 
DIICnC'IKII 

■■ ■■_■■ uma 

BQBBDBBOBBGB 
□BBOBBQBBDBB 
BBDBBGBBDBBO 
B3BBDBBDBBDB 
■ ■■ ■■ ~BB BB 
BBGaaDBBaBBQ 

■aaaaBBaBBDB 

We»ye 

anaanBanBana 
DaDDBDaBnaaa 

BDDBDDBaaBDa 
Drftwiog-in Draft 

nanBBBonnBBB 

BBBOODBBBDaa 
Rwd Flu 



the heated roller in the calendering 
machine upon the sizing, which the 
goods have absorbed in the process of 
finishing, just previous to the calen- 
dering operation. 

One of the most important features 
in obtaining the highly glazed surface 
on many of these lining fabrics is the 
use of a special kind of calender roll 
when the fabrics are being finished. 
This calender roll contains very small 
fine lines which are impressed into the 
fabric, and which is usually known as 
milling. The reason this process cre- 
ates a luster is because the fine lines 
create more surfaces in the fabric, and 
reflect the light in a better manner. 
By examining many of these cloths 
with a magnifying glass the very fine 
lines can be seen clearly impressed 
upon the various strands of yarn 
which form the fabric. 

Silesia is woven of yarn in the gray 
state and is dyed in the piece, in such 
colors as black, dark blue, brown, 
slate, drab, steel, etc. It is woven on 
any single box Toom. 

The warp is made upon a warping 
mill, and beamed upon a slasher. It 
is then ready to be drawn in on cot- 
ton harness, and woven in a manner 
similar to a drill. 



The goods are taken from the loom 
and brushed, then run through a solu- 
tion of soap and cold water to re- 
move all dirt, after which they are 
rinsed in cold water. 

The goods are now dyed in the 
piece, after which they are sized, then 
tentered to keep from shrinking in 
width, also to dry the cloth. After ten- 
tering, the goods are run through the 
calender to produce the smooth, glaz- 
ed finish upon the face of the cloth. 
The finished fabric is then ready to 
prepare for packing and shipping. 

Four square inches equals 5.4 
grains. 

27 x 36 equals 972 x 5.4 equals 
5.248.8 divided by 4 equals 1,- 
312.2 divided by 437.5 equals 
three ounces per yard, 27 inches wide 
finished. 

24 pieces warp yarn times iy 2 inches 
equals 36 inches equals .3 grains; 36 x 
7,000 equals 252,000 divided by .3 
equals 840,000 divided by 36 equals 23,- 
333 divided by 840 equals l-28s warp. 

30 pieces filling yarn times IV2 
inches equals 45 inches equals .33 
grains; 45 x 7,000 equals 315,000 divid- 
ed by .33 equals 924,242 divided by 36 
equals 25,673 divided by 840 equals 
l-30s filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 1,012 minus 28.7 inches in 
reed minus three ends per dent, 90 
ends per inch finished and 72 picks 
per inch finished, equals 86 ends in 
reed and 69 picks in loom. 

10 per cent take-up on warp in 
weaving 6 per cent size on warp in 
weaving. 

l-28s cotton warp, l-30s cotton fill- 
ing. 

Color — slate or drab. 

90 x 27 equals 2,430 plus 10 per cent 
equals 2,700 yards l-28s cotton warp, 
72 x 27 equals 1,944 yards l-30s cot- 
ton filling. 

2,700 yards l-28s cotton warp equals 
1.837 ounces, 1,944 yards l-30s cotton 
filling equals 1.234 ounces, equals 3. : 
071 ounces. 

Finish equals brush and calender. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



445 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns used, in making silesia 
vary from 30s to 40s. These counts 
of yarn would be made in a mill of 
the second division, as given in a pre- 
vious lesson. Mills making this class 
of goods are now generally equipped 
with a bale breaker. After the cotton 
is stapled and the bales sorted out, 
according to the length of staple and 
grade of cotton, j sevelral ]bales are 
placed around the bale breaker and 
the cotton fed to this machine alter- 
nately from each bale. By this meth- 
od the cotton is more thoroughly mixed 
than if a whole bale was fed to the 
machine at once. The cotton is then 
dropped on an endless lattice and car- 
ried to its proper bin. This latter is 
generally movable in either direction 
so that it may be placed in position to 
drop the cotton into its proper bin. 
The mixings should be as large as 
possible and cotton of a fair grade 
having a staple of 1% inches for this 
class of goods. The mixings should 
be allowed to stand as long as pos- 
sible and the good waste from the 
pickers, cards, drawing frames and 
back of slubber should be mixed in at 
this place. The waste from the above 
machines is collected at regular in- 
tervals, and may be mixed as fast as 
collected. Little system is used in 
mixing the waste into the raw stock, 
but the picker room boss should watch 
to see that the waste man keeps the 
different lengths of staples, kinds and 
grades of cotton by themselves. Oth- 
erwise trouble is bound to occur at the 
latter machines. The raw stock is put 
through an opener, and sometimes 
three but more often 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. 

The hopper of the opener is filled 
with cotton and started up and should 
be kept well filled all the time it is 
in motion. The speed of the beater of 
this machine for this class of goods 
should be 1,050 revolutions per min- 
ute with a fan speed of 350 revolu- 
tions per minute. Keep your bin beat- 
er clean, and see that it is adjusted 
to the proper distance from the lift- 
ing apron, so that the correct amount 
of cotton will be fed to the breaker 
picker. The total weight of the laps 



for both the warps and filling yarn 
should be about 40 pounds or 16 
ounces to yard of lap. These laps are 
put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. The speed of 
the beater is 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, with a fair speed of 1,100 rev- 
olutions per minute. This gives the 
cotton about 42 beats per inch of 
cotton fed. The beats per inch giver 
to cotton do not vary much on all 
classes of cotton, except in the case 
of Sea Island, of a long staple. In the 
latter case the speed of the beater is 
slowed down so that the cotton re- 
ceives from 29 to 34 beats per inch 
The total weight of the lap at the 
front end of the finisher is 35 pounds 
or 12y 2 ounces to yard of lap. The 

BOBBIN WASTE COTTON 

is mixed at this point, it first having 
gone through an extra process to take 
out the twist. This waste is made into 
a lap and then put up at the finisher 
picker and mixed in proportions of 
three laps of raw stock to one lap of 
bobbin waste. The draughts of the 
picker should be looked after to see 
that the currents of air are properly 
directed so as to obtain the best ad- 
vantage in making an even, firm lap 
that will not lick up at the card. Too 
much waste in the mixing will also 
tend to make a lap split or lick up at 
the card. 

THE CARD 

should have a draft of not less than 
100. The settings should be the sam 
as given in a previous lesson and the 
cylinder and doffer stripped three 
times a day. The cylinder and doffer 
should be ground once a month and 
the flats about once in every three 
weeks. The weight of the sliver at 
the front should be about 65 graim 
per yard. Use the same count of wire 
for cylinder and doffer as given in the 
last article. 

The card sliver is put through three 
processes of drawing. In some mills 
the cotton is put through a railway 
head. This machine doubles from 8 to 
16 ends, and this at the front passes 
through a trumpet, which automatical- 
ly evens it. When this process is 
used, one process of drawing frames 



446 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



is left out. The weight of the sliver 
at the front of the finisher drawing 
should be about 70 grains per yard. 
See that your leather top rolls are 
well varnished and otherwise in per- 
fect condition. The following direc- 
tions will be found excellent for mak- 
ing the varnish to use on the rolls: 
three ounces glue (use a gelatin fish 
glue), one ounce of acid (acetic). Let 
this dissolve and then add color and 
10 or 12 drops of oil of origanum. In 
warm weather a little borax may be 
added. The sliver is taken from the 
drawing frame and run through the 
slubber, where it is made into a .50 
hank roving. The 

SLUBBER ROVING 

is then put through three proc- 
esses of fly frames for both 
warp and filling yarns, the 
hank roving being as follows: First 
intermediate, 1.50; second interme- 
diate, 4 and 7.50 hank at the jack 
frame for the warp yarn and 8. for 
the filling yarn. See that your fly 
frame rolls are spread to the proper 
distance and look out for the shape 
of your full bobbins to see that the 
taper of the ends is neither too blunt 
nor too sharp. If the former, it is li- 
able to run over both on the frame 
and in handling, and if the latter, only 
a small amount of roving can be 
wound on each bobbin. The warp yarn 
is spun in the ring spinning frame, but 
the filling yarn may be either spun on 
a ring frame or a mule, but is gener- 
ally done on the former machine. The 
particulars for a warp frame spinning 
36s yarn has already been given in a 
previous lesson. Those used for a fill- 
ing frame spinning 40s are as follows: 
Gauge of spindles, 2% inches; diam- 
eter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of 
traverse, 5Y 2 inches; speed of spindle, 
8,800 revolutions per minute; twist 
per inch, 23.72. The warp yarn is then 
spooled, warped and put through a 
slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Silesias are dyed on the jig ma- 
chine at the full width of the piece. 



CREAM. 
A few grains of fast cotton yellow C. 
Ex., 5 pounds Glauber's, one-half 
pound sal soda. 

LIGHT ECRU. 
1-16 ounce fast cotton yellow C. Ex., 
1-16-ounce, direct orange TG. 
ECRU. 
. 1-16 ounce fast cotton yellow C. Ex., 
1*4 ounces fast cotton brown G., 5 
pounds Glauber's, y 2 Pound sal soda. 
LIGHT SLATE. 
2 ounces fast cotton yellow C. Ex., 4 
ounces direct black S., 5 pounds 
Glauber's, y 2 pound sal soda. 
SLATE. 

1 pound direct black S., 4 ounces 
fast cotton yellow C. Ex., 10 pounds 
Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

DARK SLATE. 

2 pounds diamine black BH., 4 
ounces diamine fast yellow A., 4 
ounces oxydiamine black A., 20 pounds 
Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

LIGHT DRAB. 
4 ounces diamine fast yellow A., 4 
ounces diamine brown B., 4 ounces 
diamine black BH., 10 pounds Glau- 
ber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 
DRAB. 
y% pound diamine fast yellow A. % 
pound diamine black BH., 6 ounces 
diamine brown B., 10 pounds Glau- 
ber's, two pounds sal soda. 
LIGHT TAN. 
y 2 pound diamine fast yellow A., % 
pound diamineral brown G., 10 pounds 
Glauber's, two pounds sal soda. 
TAN. 

2 pounds diamine catechine 3 G., 1 
pound diamine fast yellow B., 10 
pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

OLD GOLD. 

3 pounds diamine fast yellow B., 2 
pounds diamine catechine 3 G., % 
ounce diamine black BH., 10 pounds 
Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

PEARL. 
1-16 ounce diamine brilliant blue G. t 
5 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda, 
after-treated *4 per cent copper sul- 
phate. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



447 



SKY BLUE. 
6 ounces diamine sky blue FF., 5 
pounds Glauber's, y 2 pound sal soda. 

BLUE. 
2 pounds diamine blue RW., 5 
pounds Glauber's, Ms Pound sal soda. 

RED. 

6 per cent primuline, 25 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

Diazotized iy 2 per cent nitrate soda 
5 per cent sulphuric acid. Developed 
two pounds beta naphthol. 

SCARLET. 

4 pounds benzo fast scarlet 4 BS., 
30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal 
soda. 

MAROON. 

5 pounds tetrazo corinth B., 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 
% pound heliotrope BB., 10 pounds 
Glauber's, y 2 pound sal soda. 
PINK. 
ty pound tetrazo pink BU., 20 
pounds Glauber's y 2 pound sal soda. 
YELLOW. 
iy 2 pounds chlorine yellow GG., 20 
pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 
ORANGE. 

2 pounds benzo fast orange S., 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

DARK GREEN. 

3 per cent benzo dark green GG., 2 
per cent chrysophenine, 1 per cent di- 
rect black B. 

GREEN. 

3 per cent brilliant benzo green B., 
% per cent chrysophenine, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
NAVY BLUE. 

5 per cent diazo black BHN., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

6 per cent thion brown G., 6 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash. 

BROWN. 
6 per cent diamine brown B., 1 per 
cent diamine yellow B., 1 per cent dia- 
mine catechine G., 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 



DARK BROWN. 
2 per cent benzo fast black, 2 l / 2 per 
cent benzo fast red L., 4 per cent 
chrysophenine, 30 per cent Glauber's, 
3 per cent sal soda. 
BLACK. 
15 per cent thion black B., 15 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. 



LAWN 



Lawn is a light-weight, single 
cloth wash fabric, weighing from iy 4 
to 2% ounces per yard and in differ- 
ent widths finished. It is composed ot 
all cotton yarns from l-40s to about 
1-lOOs, and is always woven with a 
plain weave - — -. 

PLAIN LAWN 
is made of grey yarn in both the warp 
and filling. The fancier grades, or 
those having a color effect, are pro- 
duced by printing vines, floral stripes, 
small flowers, etc., in bright colors in 
scattered effects upon the face of the 
goods, the warp and the filling in all 
cases being grey yarns. The patterns 
are always printed, never woven. 

Lawn is made in various grades, 
ranging in price from 5 to 12 ^ and 15 
cents per yard, and it is used princi- 
pally in the manufacture of ladies' and 
children's summer dresses, sash cur- 
tains, etc. Being a rather sheer fab- 
ric, lawn is best adapted to those light 
running looms in which the action of 
shedding is easiest upon the fine yarns 
used in this style of goods. 

The warp for this fabric is warped 
upon an ordinary warper and the va- 
rious beams placed upon the slasher, 
the yarn being sized just about the 
same as is noted for an ordinary 
sheeting, though, of course, different 
sizing compounds and a greater 
amount of care is necessary, due to 
the fine yarn sizes used. It is never 
a very successful policy to use bleach- 
ed yarns in any of the finer numbers, 
in fact, it is probable that no domes- 
tic concern uses single bleached or 
dyed yarns of a finer size than 70s-l. 
It is more economical to use grey 
yarns, and in most cflses it gives a 



448 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



much better result, and besides cloths 
are practical when made from grey 
yarns when they would be impractical 
in bleached and dyed yarns. The 
method of making any fabric depends 
a good deal on the result desired, and 
it is the adoption of the 

CORRECT METHOD 

which brings success in a great 
many instances. Curtain mills have 
adopted the automatic loom for some 
of the fabrics which they produce, and 
because of this reason they are earn- 
ing quite large dividends. Other mills 
have adopted fast colors and are now 
piece bleaching their product instead 
of using bleached and dyed yarns, and 
are thus obtaining a greater margin of 
profit than others making similar 
cloths. Other illustrations might be 
given of a similar character, but intel- 
ligence should be used if successful 
results are to be secured. Lawns are 
practically always woven upon light 
looms, and very few have ever been 
woven upon automatic machines. This 
has resulted because fine yarns are 
likely to break more extensively and 
because the weight of the heddles 
upon the fine yarn causes breakage 
and loss of production. The number 
of looms per weaver is therefore re- 
duced, and the possibility of saving 
decidedly less. In order for automatic 
looms to be successful they must be 
kept in operation, and fine yarn does 
not allow this as extensively as me- 
dium and coarse sizes. 

The plain weave requires but two 
harnesses, but where there are a great 
number of ends in the warp, the yarn 
would be very much crowded if the 
warp was drawn in on two harnesses. 
Therefore, four or more harnesses are 
used. 

Lawn, when finished, should have 
a very soft, smooth feel. Therefore 
the finishing process includes brush- 
ing, very light starching or sizing, 
then calendering or pressing. 

16 square inches equals 6.9 grains. 

40 x 36 equals 1,440 x 6.9 equals 9,- 
936 divided by 16 equals 621 divided 
by 437.5 equals 1.419 ounces per yard, 
40 inches wide finished. 



40 pieces white warp yarn x 3% 
inches equals 140 inches equals .5 
grains. 

140 x 7,000 equals 980,000 divided by 
.5 equals 1,960,000 divided by 36 
equals 54,444 divided by 840 equals 
l-66s cotton warp. 

DWZWDBll 

mamamamn 
amamamom 
mamamamn 
amamamom 
mamamcma 
amamamam 
mamamama 

Wears 

mamamama 

Dnwing-inDrafc 

DOMOOM 

■■□auga 

R-i Plu 

46 pieces white filling yarn x 2% 
inches equals 100 equals .35 grains. 

100 x 7,000 equals 700,000 divided by 
.35 equals 2,000,000 divided by 36 
equals 55,555 divided by 840 equals 
l-66s cotton filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

40 inches finished. 

64 ends per inch finished, 62 picks 
per inch finished equals 60 ends in 
reed and 58 picks in loom. 

Reed, 1,080; 421 inches in reed. 2 
ends per dent. 

5 per cent take-up on warp in weav- 
ing. 

64@40 equals 2,560 ends plus 5 per 
cent take-up equals 2,694 yards. 

62 picks x 40 inches equals 2,480 
yards. 

2,694 yards, l-66s cotton warp 
equals .748 ounces; 2,480 yards, l-66s 
cotton filling equals .712 ounces total, 
1.460 ounces. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarns from which 
lawn is made vary according to the 
quality of lawn being made. This va- 
ries from 40s to 100s. The yarns are 
made in the third division of mills, 
as given in a previous lesson or those 
mills which make high count yarns. 
In this article we will consider the 
warp yarn to be 60s and the filling 
yarn to be 100s. For these two counts 
raw stock of two different lengths of 
staple and grade of yarn would be 
used. For 100s a Sea Island cotton of 
about 1 7-16-inch staple may be used 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



449 



and for the warp yarn an Allen cotton 
of about lf-inches staple. The two 
cottons would be treated differently at 
every process, and so we will describe 
the two cottons at each process. The 
Allen cotton would be put through the 
bale breaker in the manner described 
in the article of last week, and carried 
to its proper bin. At this point the 
GOOD WASTE IS MIXED IN. 
It is not the general custom to run 
the Sea Island cotton through the bale 
breaker, but to mix it by hand great 
care should be taken that all the bales 
mixed are of a uniform length and 
that the grade of each bale is up 
to standard. Those bales not up to 
standard should be shipped back to 
the broker. The good waste is mixed 
in at this point, but be sure that the 
waste boy only puts in Sea Island cot- 
ton, for if a shorter staple cotton gets 
in it will cause trouble at subsequent 
machines. The Allen cotton is put 
through two processes of picking and 
an opener. For this class of cotton 
three processes of picking would be 
better for, as it is a very dirty cotton, 
the extra picking would help to clean 
it. The speeds of all the picking ma- 
chines previously given may be used 
for this cotton. The weight of the 
lap at the breaker picker should be 
about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. 
The doublings are four into one at the 
finisher, the total weight being 3.5 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. If an inter- 
mediate picker is used, the total 
weight of the lap should be about 37 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The 

SEA ISLAND COTTON 
is only put through an opener and one 
process of picking, the reason for this 
being that the staple is so long that 
if two processes are used the extra 
beating that it receives tends to put 
neps into the staple. The speeds of 
the opener are slowed down and the 
speeds of the finisher parts are as fol- 
lows: The speed of a rigid two-blad- 
ed beater should not exceed 1.000 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap should be about 30 pounds 
or about a 9-ounce lap to the yard. 
The roving waste should be mixed in 
at the finisher picker process, as pre- 
viously explained. The cards should 



be set close for both cottons, the main 
difference being in the setting of the 
feed roller to the licker-in, which 
should be set according to the length 
of staple. The usual points that have 
been given in previous lessons should 
be looked out for when running Allen 
cotton, the weight of the sliver in 
front being 65 grains to the yard and 
the production being about 500 pounds 
for a week of 60 hours, the draft be- 
ing not less than 100. For Sea Island 

ADDITIONAL CARE 
has to be taken; also certain speeds 
have to be altered. It has been found 
that by slowing the speed of the lick- 
er-in less neps are put into the cot- 
ton and still the cotton is cleaned. In 
fact, one overseer using this class of 
cotton lagged his licker-in pulley so 
as to obtain an extra diameter of iy 2 
inches and found the results excellent, 
the sliver showing fewer neps than 
when the usual speed of the licker-in 
was used. On this cotton it is the gen- 
eral practice to use high drafts and 
sometimes a draft of 165 is used, but 
for general purposes a draft of about 
130 is used. The flats are speeded so 
as to make one complete revolution 
every 45 minutes, the extra speed be- 
ing obtained by lagging the pulley on 
the cylinder that drives the flats. This, 
of course, takes out more waste, but 
it makes less work for the combers to 
do. The weight of the sliver at the 
card is about 45 grains per yard. Strip 
and grind cards the same as stated 
in previous articles. 

THE WIRE FILLET 
used for cards making sliver for high 
class yarns is generally firmer than 
that previously given and if cards are 
used for high count yarn the size of 
the fillet should be as follows: Cylin- 
der No. 34 wire or 110s English count; 
doffer and top flats, No. 36 wire or 130s 
English count. The production of a 
card on Sea Island cotton varies from 
325 to 450 pounds per week of 60 
hours. Four hundred pounds is a good 
average. From the cards both cottons 
are taken to the comber room and the 
doublings at the sliver lap are 14 into 
one. The weight of the Allen lap at 
the front is 320 grains per yard and 
the Sea Island weighs 250 grains per 



450 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



yard. The cottons are then put through 
the ribbon lap machine, where the 
Allen is doubled 6 into one, but it is 
the general custom to double the Sea 
Island only 5 into one, the weight of 
lap at the front end being 260 grains 
per yard for Allen and 200 grains for 
Sea Island. The laps are taken to the 
combers, where they are doubled 6 
into one. The speed of the combers 
should be about 85 to 90 neps per min- 
ute for Allen and 75 to 80 for Sea 
Island. The amount of waste taken 
out at the comber is important. A good 
average for Allen is 18 per cent and 
for Sea Island 20 to 25 per cent. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 

for Allen is about 42 and for Sea Island 
about 36 grains per yard. After pass- 
ing through the comber the sliver is 
put through two processes of drawing, 
the weight of the sliver at the front 
being 60 grains per yard for Sea 
Island and 70 grains for Allen. On all 
machines when leather top rolls are 
used for Sea Island, stock should be 
kept in the best of shape and oiled 
and varnished frequently. The speed 
of the front roll on the finisher draw- 
ing for Sea Island should be about 320 
revolutions per minute or 80 revolu- 
tions per minute slower than for Al- 
len. The slubber draws the sliver into 
.50 hank roving for Allen and .80 hank 
for Sea Island. The Sea Island is put 
through three processes of fly frames, 
the hank roving being as follows: 
First intermediate, 2.25; second inter- 
mediate, 5.00; jack' frame, 18 hank, 
and for Allen: First intermediate, 1.50; 
second intermediate, 4.00; jack frame, 
12 hank. The twist per inch put into 
Sea Island cotton is a little less than 
the usual amount used for other cot- 
tons, the standard for jack frames be- 
ing square root of hank x 1.2. The 
filling yarn is mule spun and the warp 
yarn ring spun, the following particu- 
lars being used: Gauge of frame, 21 
inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of 
spindle, 10,000 revolutions per minute; 
twist per inch, 34.86. The warp yarn is 
then taken to the spoolers and from 
here to the warpers, where it is run 
on beams and taken to the slasher. 
The following is a good size to use: 



100 gallons water, 54 pounds potato 
starch, 2 pounds Yorkshire gum, 1% 
pounds soap. 

Finishing Particulars. 

Lawns have to be very carefully 
handled in the bleaching process. 
They are starched with an ordinary 
starch mangle with from 8 to 12 
ounces best white German dextrine 
per gallon, mixed cold, and boiled for 
one hour, with a little blueing added 
to shade required. 

They are then finished on the stent- 
er machine, dryed with hot air, care 
being taken to keep the pieces per- 
fectly straight. 

Lawns are often tinted light shades 
of blue, pink, cream, ecru, pearl, green 
and other light tints with direct col- 
ors added to the starch, the direct 
colors being used generally. The basic 
and acid colors are also tinted to make 
bright colors. 



TARTAN PLAIDS 

Tartan plaid is a narrow, light- 
weight, single cloth fabric, weighing 
from 2 to 2 1 / 4 ounces per yard finish- 
ed, and is composed of regular cotton 
yarns from l-20s to l-26s in warp and 

QB— t3E— 

DUDOMQ 

■■ODHOO 
■□□■■□□■ 

aammaamm 

DMOOIID 

■■acHaa 
■□Blfqpp 

aanmanom 
aauaaamo 

DBQDDBDD 

maaamoDD 

Drftwiog-m Draft 

ODIIDDH 

■■ZZBBCn 

B«d Plan 

filling. It is always woven about 23% 
inches in the reed, to finish about 22 
inches wide. This is done to prevent 
it from coming too close to the ging- 
ham lines. 

Tartan plaids are generally woven 

with a 2 45 degree, right hand 

twill weave, and are always woven in 
plaid patterns in imitation of the im- 
ported worsted fabric of this name. 

Each line of patterns has a stand- 
ard name, which represents a signifi- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



451 



cant style of color arrangement, such 
es Rob Roy, dress Stewart, Royal 
Stewart, Malcolm, Fraser, McGregor, 
Sinclair, Gordon, Drummond, Maepher- 
son, etc. 

Those colors most used are red, 
green, black, white, brown, drab, wine, 
dark green, scarlet, dark blue, etc. 

IN THE ROB ROY STYLE 

the pattern takes the form of a broad, 
two-colored check, 1% x l 1 ^ inches, 
either black and red, or black and 
white, viz.: 72 black, 72 red in warp 
and filling. The dress Stewart pattern 
is composed principally of white yarn. 
The Royal Stewart has a decided red 
color effect, tbe Gordon pattern a very 
green color effect, etc. 

Aniline colors are used in dyeing 
the yarns for this fabric, the warp 
yarns being given an extra run, to in- 
sure an even shade, which, wbile not 
being exactly a fast color, is strong 
enough to withstand the action of a 
rather wet finish (gingham finish). 

The warps for this fabric are order 
ed from the spinner in lengths of 
either 720, 1,080, 1,200 or 1,500 yards, 
and have either 1,000, 1,200, 1,400 or 
2,000 ends in them. 

The most popular are 720, or 1,080 
yards and 1,400 ends. 

The warp is dyed in bulk and the 
necessary number of ends of each col- 
or are then split off. When all the 
colors have been split or separated, 
the splittings, or separated bunches of 
ends of each color, are assembled in 
the beaming frame, and the yarn is 
arranged as per pattern in the rathe 
comb, and the warp run through this 
rathe onto the beam. After beaming 
the warp is drawn in in the regular 
manner. 

To finish this fabric, the goods are 
taken from the loom and run through 
the brusher, then through the sprink- 
ler, after which they are very lightly 
sized, then run upon the tentering ma- 
chine to prevent undue shrinkage in 
width, also to assist in drying, then 
calendered, but not to a glossy finish. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
Style — Rob Roy — finished 22 inches 
wide; reed, 1,080 — 23% inches in reed, 
two ends per dent; l-26s cotton warp 



— 10 per cent take-up; l-22s cotton 
filling— 40 picks; - — - , 45 degree, 
right-hand twill weave, 16 ends extra 
for selvage. 

Warp pattern: 72 black x 72 reed, 
total 144, all equal 9 patterns plus 112 
ends. 

1,424 ends in warp (including sel- 
vage.) 

Start 29 red at x, end 28 red at x. 

704 ends black plus -10 per cent 
equals 780 yards l-26s warp equals 
.5715 ounce; 720 ends red plus 10 per 
cent equals 800 yards l-6s warp equals 
.5860 ounce; 48 picks times 23^ equals 
564 yards, l-22s filling equals .488 
ounce and 564 yards, l-22s filling 
equals .488 ounce, equals 2.1335 ounces, 
2.1335 ounces per yard, 22 inches wide. 

Finish — very light size, tenter, cal- 
ender. . 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns used in the manufacture 
of tartan plaids are made in mills of 
the first and second division, as given 
in a previous lesson. The counts ot 
yarn vary according to the mill in 
which they are made, and the counts 
taken as examples for this article are 
l-22s filling yarn and l-26s warp yarn. 
The cotton used for these goods is of 
a fair grade and a staple varying from 
1 inch to 1 1-16 inches. We will con- 
sider the staple to be one inch. The 
cotton is stapled and put through a 
bale breaker and from here is passed 
by a series of lattice aprons to the 
mixing bin. Use as large a mixing as 
possible at one time, because the le^ss 
mixings the evener the yarn will be. 
The good waste from the machines up 
to the slubber is mixed into the raw 
stock at this point, the collections of 
this waste being made at regular in- 
tervals. The raw stock is sometimes 
put through 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 
and an opener and sometimes through 
three processes of picking and an op- 
ener. It has been found that two proc- 
esses of picking will clean the cot- 
ton properly, and at the same time 
will not be so apt to put neps into it. 
When two processes of pickings are 
used, the particulars of the intermedi- 



452 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ate picker given below may be drop- 
ped, the other particulars remaining 
the same as given. The hopper or feed 
box of the opener should always be 
kept at least half full and generally a 
porcupine beater is used. The speed 
of this beater should be about 1,050 
revolutions per minute, with a fan 
speed of 350 revolutions per minute. 
The cotton is then passed to the feed 
rolls of the breaker picker. Keep the 
pin beater of this machine free from 
cotton, as it has to be watched to see 
that the sliver waste does not tangle 
around it. This roll is more trouble- 
some on some makes of machines than 
on others. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 
(which generally is of a two-bladed 
rigid type) is 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, the fan speed being 1,400 revo- 
lutions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front should be about 40 
pounds total weight or a 16-ounce lap. 
Some system of marking has to be 
employed, so that the laps of other 
grades and lengths of staple will not 
become mixed and thus cause trouble 
later on. Of course, like staples and 
weights of laps may be placed togeth- 
er, but it is the general custom to mark 
the laps at the end as they are taken 
off the machine with different colored 
crayons. For example, 1 1-16 may be 
marked brown, 1% blue, 1 1-16 salmon, 
etc. This is not generally done at 
any except the finisher picker. The 
laps are doubled four into one at the 
intermediate picker, the speed of the 
beater being 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, and the speed of the fan 1,050 
revolutions per minute. The weight 
of the lap at the front is about 37 
pounds. These laps are put up at the 
finisher picker and doubled four into 
one. It is at this point that 

THE ROVING WASTE 
is mixed in in a proportion of one lap 
of roving waste to three laps of raw 
stock. The cotton receives about 42 
beats per inch fed. The total weight 
of the lap is about 39 pounds, or about 
a 16-ounce per yard lap. The speed 
of the beater is about 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute, and the speed of the 
fan 1,100 revolutions per minute. The 
laps are then put up at the card. Thb 



card is set to accommodate this stock 
as described in a previous lesson, the 
speed of cylinder being 160 revolutions 
per minute. The speed of the licker-in 
is 300 revolutions per minute. Flats 
make one complete revolution every 40 
minutes. The draft should not exceed 
100. Use a large diameter doffer. 

Strip three times daily and grind at 
least once a month. The weight of the 
sliver is 65 grains per yard. The pro- 
duction is about 900 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. The sliver is then put 
through three processes of drawing. 
being doubled six into one, the speed 
of the front roller being 400 revolu- 
tions per minute, the weight of draw- 
ing at the finisher being 70 grains. 
Some of the points that are to be look- 
ed out for are as follows: Stop mo- 
tions, rolls, laps and oiling. The sliver 
is next taken to the slubber and made 
into .40 hank roving, the usual stand- 
ard for twist being used. Look out 
for the shape of your bobbins. The 
slubber roving is put through three 
processes of fly frames, doubling two 
into one. The hank roving at the first 
intermediate is 1.10, at the second 
2.70 hank and at the jack frame five 
hank. 

The rovings are then taken to the 
spinning room and made into the re- 
quired yarn. 

THE FILLING YARN 

may be taken to either the mule or 
ring spinning room. If taken to the 
ring spinning room, the following are 
good particulars to use for frame mak- 
ing 22s yarn: Gauge of frame, 2%; 
diameter of ring, iy 2 inches; length 
of traverse, 6% inches; twist per inch, 
15.25; speed of spindles, 7,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. For a warp frame 
spinning 26s use gauge of frame, 23 
inches; diameter of ring, 1| inches; 
length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of 
spindles, 9,700 revolutions per minute. 
The warp yarn is then spooled, warped 
and put through a slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
RED. 
4 per cent diamine fast red F., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



453 



GREEN. 

1% per cent diamine sky blue FF., 
-/ 2 per cent diamine fast yellow FF., 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 
:>da. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent thion black G., 15 per 
ent sulphide soda, 30 per cent salt; 3 
»er cent soda ash. 

BROWN. 

5 per cent benzo fast orange S., 2 
per cent chrysophenine, 2y 2 per cent 
benzo fast black, 30 per cent salt, 2 
per cent soda ash. 

DRAB. 

| per cent benzo fast black, y 2 per 
cent chrysophenine, 3 ounces benzo 
fast red GL., 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 
per cent sal soda. 

SLATE. 

y 2 per cent benzo fast black, X A 
ounce chrysophenine, % ounce benzo 
fast red GL., 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 
per cent sal soda. 

SCARLET. 

5 per cent diamine scarlet B., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 

DARK GREEN. 

6 per cent diamine black HW., 4 
per cent diamine fast yellow B., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 

WINE. 

6 per cent diamine Bordeaux B., 30 
per cent Glauber's 3 per cent sal soda. 

BLUE. 

4 per cent brilliant benzo blue 6 B., 
30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

DARK BLUE. 

15 per cent pyrogene indigo B., 15 
per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent 
salt, 3 per cent soda ash, 2 pints min- 
eral oil. 

YELLOW. 

2 per cent chloramine yellow M., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent soda 
ash. 



BAYADERE 



Bayadere is a fabric in which the 
pattern consists of a stripe running 
across the width instead of the length 
of the material. Such patterns are al- 
most entirely confined to ladies' and 
children's dress goods, and may be 
composed entirely of cotton, as in the 
cheapest grades, of cotton and wor- 
sted in the medium, or entirely of 
worsted or worsted and silk in the 
best grades. 

The fabric considered in this article 
is a medium-grade cloth of ladies' 
dress goods, and is composed of wor- 
sted, silk and cotton and weighs 5y 2 
ounces per yard, 36 inches wide, fin- 
ished. 

The pattern is a zigzag stripe, ex- 
tending across the fabric in the direc- 
tion of the weft on a rep ground. 

Figure 1 shows the full design for 
the one repeat of the pattern, and is 
complete on 132 warp threads and 30 
picks. 

Figure 2 is the drawing-in draft and 
is complete on 13 harnesses. 
Figure 3 is the reeding plan. 
Figure 4 is the chain draft. 
The arrangement of the warp and 
weft threads is as follows: 

Warp, 2 threads blue 2 -50s worsted 
(xx Ohio), 1 thread brown 2-60s cot- 
ton (carded peeler) ; 3 threads in pat- 
tern. 

Weft, 1 pick light blue 40-2s spun 
silk, 2 picks brown, 20-cut cotton 
(wool spun) ; 3 picks in pattern. 

20 reed, 3 threads per dent — 60 
threads per inch. Reeded 38% inches 
wide for 36 inches finished, 40 picks 
per inch. 

The above warp must be made on 
two beams: cotton threads on top 
beam, worsted threads on bottom 
beam. 

When drawing in, cotton must al- 
ways come on first four shafts, and 
worsted on the last nine shafts. 

Almost any dobby loom might be 
used having the required number of 
harnesses and shuttle boxes. 

In regulating the tension of the two 
beams, considerable care must be used 
in order that the rib in the ground 
may be made as clear and distinct as 



454 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



possible. This may be accomplished by 
having relatively more weight on the 
cotton beam than on the worsted, 
Fig. 3. Fig. 2. 



trated by the small sketch, Figure 5. 
It will be noticed that the cotton 
(thin) threads are held very nearly 

Fin. 1 




which is an important feature in the 
manufacture of all fabrics of a rep 
character, and which is fully illus- 



straight, while the worsted are forced 
to bend around the heavy picks of the 
weft. The take-up of the worsted 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



455 



threads is therefore much greater 
than that of the cotton, being about 
eight per cent, while the cotton is only 
about two per cent. 

The worsted warp then must be 
made relatively longer. 

In introducing the weft threads, the 

aaaniniiiiH 

ODaOBBBBBBBBB 
■■■■■OOOCljtlJI 
DGJaillHIMI 

■■■■aBDDDDDBD 
OGGGBBBBBBBBB 

no j. ]■■■■■■■■■ 
■ ■■■■gbooddcb 
gdggbbbbbbbbb 
ogggbbbbbbbbb 
■■■■ob obooc go 
coggbbbbbbbbb 

boggbbbbbbbbb 
BBBBDBGBaaOG 
DGGGBBBBBBBBB 
OOOOBBBBBBBBB 
■■■■GBOBOBOGG 
LOGGBBBBBBBBB 
OGGGBBBBBBBBB 
■BBBDGBGBDBDG 

BGGUBBBBBBBBB 
GGGBBBBBBBBB 
BBBBGGDBDBn»a 
DGDGBBBBBBBBB 
OGGGBBBBBBBBB 
■BBBGGCDBCBCB 
OGGGBBBBBBBBB 
DGGGBBBBBBBBa 
■■■BOGGGn^GBO 

Fig. 4. 

silk pick must always enter when the 
cotton warp threads are up in the 
ground portion of the cloth. 
THE FINISHING. 

In finishing fabrics of this charac- 
ter everything depends upon the qual- 
ity of the cloth — the fabric just describ- 
ed having a dry finish; viz., after being 
burled and mended, it is brushed, 
pressed and rolled and is then ready 
for shipment. 

In the best grades, however, the 
cloth must be scoured, tentered, shear- 
ed, brushed and pressed before being 
rolled and made ready for shipment. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machines used in making the 
count of yarn required for the warp 
yarn of bayadere will be found in the 
second division of mills, as given in a 
previous lesson. Bayadere, as has 
been stated, may be composed of all- 
worsted or all-cotton yarns or a mix- 
ture of worsted and cotton yarns, or a 
mixture of worsted, silk and cotton. In 
fact, there may be almost any com- 
bination of these three fibres. The 
best grades of bayadere are made up 
of worsted and silk yarns. For this 
article we will consider that the fab- 



ric is composed of all three kinds of 
raw stock, worsted, silk and cotton. 
For the warp, 2-60s yarn is used and 
for the filling a 20-cut cotton yarn is 
used. The filling yarn is spun in a 
woolen mill and so 

THE WARP YARN 
will be the one considered under the 
above heading. 

For this count of yarn a peeler cot- 
ton is used of about l|-inch staple. 
This cotton should be of a good grade 
and should be run through a bale 
breaker. The principal part of the 
mixing is done at the bale breaker for 
this cotton. The cotton is brought 
from the storehouse and sampled and 
the bales having the same length of 
staple are put together. Those hav- 
ing a staple or grade not up to mark 
are laid one side. Several bales are 
opened and placed around the bale 
breaker and the attendant feeds from 
each bale alternately until all the cot- 
ton is gone. As many bales as possible 
and convenient should be opened 
and placed around the bale breaker at 
one time because a 

MORE EVEN MIXING 
will thus be obtained and the yarn will 
run a great deal evener. After passing 
through the bale breaker the stock is 
conveyed automatically to the mixing 
bins. If the mixing is done by hand, 
the same points have to be looked out 
for, the only difference being that sev- 
eral hands are used instead of a ma- 
chine. At the bins the good waste is 
mixed. The raw stock is then passed 
through two or three processes of 
picking and an opener. If only two 
processes of picking are used, then 
the particulars given for the interme- 
diate picker may be left out, the other 
particulars given remaining the same. 
The hopper of the opener should al- 
ways be kept more than half full. The 
speed of 

THE BEATER 

is 1,050 revolutions per minute. Gen- 
erally a porcupine style of beater is 
used for this machine, with a fair 
speed of 350 revolutions per minute. 
The cotton is then passed to the break- 
er picker. The speed of the beater 
(two-bladed rigid type) is about 1,500 



456 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



revolutions per minute, that of the fan, 
1,400 revolutions per minute. The 
weight of the laps at the front should 
be about 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. 
The laps are put up at the intermedi- 
ate picker and doubled four into one. 
The speed of the beater should be 1,- 
450 revolutions per minute. That of 
the fan 1,050 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of the laps at the front 




oy ou 



Fig. 5. 

end should be about 37 pounds, or a 
12-ounce lap for peeler cotton to make 
this class of goods. 

The laps are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled four into one. It 
is at this point that the 

CUT ROVING IS MIXED IN 

(it having been previously put through 
a special picker, which takes out the 
twist and leaves it in a fluffy, untwist- 
ed state and then it is put through a 
picker and made into a lap of the 
same weight as the laps from the in- 
termediate picker), in the proportion 
of three laps of raw stock to one lap 
waste. The speed of the beater for 
this machine is 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, with a fan speed of 1,100 rev- 
olutions per minute. This gives the 
cotton passing through 42 beats or 



blows per inch. The weight of the lap 
at the front is 35 pounds, or a 12*&- 
ounce lap. Watch all the points that 
have previously been pointed out. The 
variation from standard should not be 
over 8 ounces either side for the total 
lap. The lap is next taken to the 
card. The 

SETTINGS OF THE CARD 

for this division of mills have been 
previously given. 

The draft should not exceed 100; 
speed of the licker-in, 300 revolutions 
per minute; speed of flats, 1 revolution 
every 45 minutes; weight of sliver, 65 
grains; production about 650 pounds 
for week of 60 hours. Strip three times 
a day, grind once a month, and use 
as large a doffer as possible. The 
sliver is next put through three proc- 
esses of drawing, the doublings at 
each process being six into one, the 
weight of the finisher drawing being 
72 grains per yard, and the revolutions 
per minute of front roll 350. Either 
metallic or leather covered rolls may 
be used at this machine. If the former 
are used, see that they are properly 
set and keep them well scoured; if the 
latter are used, keep them in good re- 
pair, well varnished, and oiled. For 
this length of staple the following 

SETTINGS 
of the bottom steel rolls may be used: 
Front roll to second roll, 1% inches; 
second roll to third, 1% inches; third 
roll to back, 1% inches. The sliver 
is put through the slubber and made 
into .55 hank roving. Three processes 
of speeders or fly frames are used, 
the hank roving being as follows: at 
first intermediate 1.50; at the second 
4, and at the jack frame, 12. The 
usual points are to be looked out for 
in connection with fly frames. . The 
roving is then passed to the spinning 
room and made into 60s yarn. For a 
warp frame making this count use the 
following particulars: Gauge of frame, 
2% inches; diameter of. ring, 1%. in- 
ches; length of traverse, 6 inches; 
twist per inch, 34.86; speed of. spindle, 
10,000 revolutions per minute. The 
yarn is then taken to the twister and 
doubled or twisted into a two-ply yarn. 
It is then passed to the spooler and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



457 



from here to the warper and from 
here to the slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BROWN. 
5 per cent diamine brown B., 1 per 
cent diamine fast yellow B., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 
LIGHT BLUB (SILK). 
1 per cent patent blue, pure, 5 per 
cent acetic acid. 

t BLUE (WORSTED). 

3 per cent patent blue A., 20 per 
cent Glauber's salt, 5 per cent sul- 
phuric acid. 



BOUCLE 



Boucle is a single cloth, dress goods 
fabric, weighing from 7 to 8 ounces 
per yard, 44 inches wide finished, and 
composed of plain and fancy twist 
(cotton) yarn in warp and filling, also 
having a worsted loop yarn in the 
filling. 

BouclS is used principally as a nov- 
elty dress fabric for ladies' spring and 
fall suitings, the distinguishing fea- 
ture of the cloth being the small loop 
in the filling yarn, which curls over 
the face of the goods. 

COTTON BOUCLE 
is generally made with a fancy combi- 
nation weave, and the all-wool grades 
with a straight twill weave. 

In the fabric boucl<§ the loop yarn is 
always a worsted filling thread, twist- 
ed with a single cotton thread, gen- 
erally dyed black. The color effects 
are either solid color in warp and 
filling with the loop yarn in contrast, 
or end and end patterns, created by 
using fancy colored cotton twist yarns. 
The colors most used are : Brown, dark 
blue* cadet blue, light green, drab, etc., 
or these same colors are twisted with 
a black thread for twist effects. Boucl<§ 
is usually woven in the pick and pick 
loom, owing to the fact that there is 
never more than one pick of loop fill- 
ing put in at one place, the arrange- 
ment generally being 4, 5, 6, 8 picks, 
cotton or cotton twist, to one pick of 
worsted loop yarn. 



The woven fabric (loom) of this 
name is very closely imitated by a 
knitted fabric of similar appearance, 
which is a light-weight grade of as- 
tracban. 

THE KNITTED FABRIC 
is made of cotton yarns, wound in cone 
shape and placed upon the knitting 

CTH3CCKB 

UlCDIIlJO 
■G IIOCI 
ODBBODBB 

auuanmma 

mmaammaa 
bqdbbqqb 

Weave 

DDOBGODB 

nuaaamaa 

manamoaa 

Drawinc-m Taft 

CJBDBOBDB 

mamaunma 

Reed Plan 

BOUCTiK (Woolen) 
Warp, all brown. Filling, 3 brown, 
I worsted, 1 loop. 



™ {SaSSKSSSSK 

tap*. ^SSSM Weave 

fWDBPBDBn«r»g 

J DBGBBWQBDrBB 
Twist 1 BCBDMBQBDP;; 

Loop Yarn CDGBaGDDDBDn 



oannonoaDQaB 
DQDDBaDaaDBa 

QQDBQDaaOBQQ 

an«ODODDBaaa 
QBOOoacMQcaa 
■QounaBDoaaa 

Drawing-in Draft. 



DBDBDBDBOBOB 

BGBGBQBQBDBG 

Reed Plan 

BOUCLE (Cotton) 

frame, no warp being required, and the 
thread which forms the loop is a reg- 
ular worsted thread, dyed black and 
wound upon a small bottle bobbin. 
The loops on the face of the cloth 
are formed by the loop wheels in the 
machine throwing the worsted thread 
between the stitching places, upon 
the face of the cloth in such a manner 
as to form a loop. 

The yarns can be taken direct from 
the twister and spooled upon small 



458 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



6-inch spools and these spools assem- 
bled in the creel rack at the warp mill 
and the warp made in sections upon 
the mill drum, and afterward run off 
the drum upon the loom beam: or, the 
yarns are taken from the twister and 
the entire number of spools required 
are placed upon a creel rack and the 
whole warp made by being run around 
an upright mill drum, which is an up- 
right framework centered upon an 
axle and turned by a crank, and hav- 
ing a circumference of from 20 to 50 
yards. 

If made upon an upright mill, the 
warp, when finished, is pulled off and 
beamed. 

To finish boucle, the goods are tak- 
en from the loom, and scoured in a 
solution of soap and cold water, after 
which they are rinsed in cold water, 
tentered and pressed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 720 — 49% inches— 1 end per 
dent, 20 picks per inch; 2-12s cotton 
warp and filling. 

Warp pattern: 4 black and blue 
twist, 2 black. 

Filling pattern: 4 black and blue 
twist, 1 black loop yarn. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machines on which the counts 
of yarn are made in the manufacture 
of boucle will be found in the first di- 
vision of mills, as given in a previous 
lesson. The warp yarn is made from 
a cotton fibre, as is the filling yarn, 
but this class of cloth has an extra fill- 
ing, which is spun from a worsted 
fibre. This worsted filling is what is 
known as a loop yarn and when woven 
into the cloth gives it a rough surface. 
The loops are obtained by different 
methods, this one being a three-ply 
yarn. 

THE YARN 

to make the filling warp yarns for 
boucle' is made from raw stock having 
a staple of about one inch. This raw 
stock is generally mixed, in large 
quantities, by hand. If two mixings 
are made, it is a great deal better, for 
then one mixing can be standing and 
drying out while the other mixing is 
being used. The good waste is mixed 



at this point and sometimes, although 
on a poor quality of goods, a small per- 
centage, of comber waste is used in 
the mixing. The raw stock is run 
through an opener and three processes 
of pickers. The hopper or feed box of 
the opener should be kept more than 
half full in order to obtain as even a 
feed as possible. The speed of the 
beater is 1,000 revolutions per minute. 
The cotton sheet is then passed on 
to the feed rolls of the breaker and 
is struck from them by the beater, 
which, if of the rigid two-bladed type, 
makes 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the 
front is 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. 
These laps are doubled, four into one, 
at the intermediate picker, of which 
the beater makes 1,450 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front of this machine is 39 
pounds, or 14% ounces to the yard. 
The laps are next 

DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE 
at the finisher picker. It is at this 
point that the cut-roving waste is mix- 
ed in the proportion of one lap cut 
roving to three laps raw stock. The 
beater of this machine makes 1,450 
revolutions per minute, which gives 42 
beats per inch of cotton fed. The to- 
tal weight of lap at the front is 39 
pounds, or a 14% -ounce lap. It will 
thus be seen that the doublings in a 
picker room, where three processes of 
picking are used, will be 16 against 
a total draft of 14.6, the individual 
drafts at the pickers being about 1.86 
at breaker and 2.80 at the intermediate 
and finisher pickers. The laps are put 
up at the card, the draft of which for 
this class of goods should not exceed 
100. The speed of the licker-in Is 300 
revolutions per minute, the top flats 
making one revolution every 45 min- 
utes. The card fillet of work of this 
class should use No. 32 wire for cyl- 
inder and No. 33 wire for doffer and 
top flats (No. 32 wire equals 90s Eng- 
lish count and No. 33 wire equals 100s). 
Grind wire once a month, strip three 
times a day, both cylinder and doffer, 
although some overseers strip the dof- 
fer once more. The weight of the 
sliver should be about 65 grains per 
yard and the card should produce be- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



459 



tween 900 and 950 pounds per week of 
60 hours. See that your knife blades 
under the licker-in are properly set. 
The two-knife arrangement is better 
than the one knife. Use 

A LARGE SIZE DOPFER. 

In setting your doffer to the cylinder 
use a No. 5 gauge. Two processes of 
drawing are generally used and for 
this class of work it is the general 
custom to use metallic rolls, as they 
are better adapted to this class of 
work than the leather covered top 
rolls. In calculating the production 
turned off for metallic rolls always 
add 33 1-3 per cent over that calculat- 
ed for leather covered rolls. The sli- 
ver weighs about 70 grains per yard 
and with 400 revolutions per minute 
of front roll produces 2,100 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. The roving is then 
put through the slubber and made in- 
to 40 hank roving. It is then run 
through 

TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, 

where it is made into 1.25 hank at the 
first intermediate and 2.50 at the sec- 
ond. The roving is then taken to the 
spinning room. The particulars used 
for a warp spinning frame making 12s 
yarn would be as follows: Gauge of 
frame, 3 inches; diameter of ring, 2% 
inches; length of traverse, 7 to 7%; 
speed of spindles, 19,000; and for a fill- 
ing frame spinning 12s use: Gauge of 
spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 7 inches; 
speed of spindle, 6,600. The yarn is 
then spooled, twisted into 2-ply 12s 
and warped, after which it is run 
through a slasher. 

Colors for Boucle. 

Following are good formulas for 
dyeing boucl^ : 

BROWN. 

10 per cent thion brown G., 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

DARK BLUE. 

10 per cent immedial indone B., 10 
per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 



CADET BLUE. 
8 per cent immedial sky blue, 8 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
4 per cent immedial sky blue, 3 per 
cent immedial yellow D., 7 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 
3 per cent sal soda. 

DRAB. 
3 per cent thion black G., y 2 per cent 
thion brown G., 3 per cent sulphide 
soda, 20 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

SLATE. 
2 per cent immedial black NN., 2 per 
cent sulphide soda, 20 per cent 
Glauber's, 2 per cent soda ash. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent immedial black NB., 15 
per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per ecnt soda ash. 

SCARLET. 
6 per cent diamine scarlet B., 3 per 
cent sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. 

R^D. 
6 per cent benzo fast red 4B., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 



COMBED YARN GOODS — 
COTTON LININGS 

Cotton lining is a single cloth, all 
cotton fabric, weighing from 2 to 2 x / 2 
ounces per yard, the goods finished at 
20% inches, including % inch for sel- 
vage. All combed cotton warp yarns 
are used in the production of this fab- 
ric, which, when finished, is used 
principally in the manufacture of 
sleeve linings and as a stiffening in 
the more expensive grade of ladies' 
and men's clothing. 

The object of treating the cotton 
while in the sliver state to the addi- 
tional process of combing is to fur- 
ther assist in the operation of 
straightening out, or paralleling of the 
cotton fibres. Combed cotton, after be- 
ing spun into yarn, produces a smooth, 
round, even thread. 



460 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



In addition, the combing process 
makes it possible to obtain a much 
better yarn than if it were not done, 
for not only does the combing process 
parallel the cotton fibres, but it re- 
moves a large portion of the short fi- 
bres which compose the roving or 
yarn. As is well known, the longer 
staples of cotton contain quite a large 
percentage of short fibres, and if these 
are eliminated, it leaves only the 
longer fibres and makes relatively a 
much stronger yarn. The reason for 
this is because the longer fibres have 
more binding places in the twisted 
yarn. It often happens that the use 
of long cotton will permit of a lower 
standard of twist, largely because the 
greater number of binding points re- 
sult in more strength, than with a 
greater amount of twist and shorter 
fibres. 

SLEEVE LININGS 

are made of combed yarns which after 
being dyed the required color are 
glazed or polished, and this process, in 
connection with the weave employed, 
generally an eight-harness satin warp 
effect face, gives to the yarn in cloth 
the appearance of a close woven hair- 
cloth fabric. The finished fabric has 
a very smooth, hard, even face, 
though not a harsh feel. 

■■■■■DM 

■ ■OMBBB 
■■■■■■■D 



Weave 



□□□DDDn» 
DaDDDQBD 

aaaaamna 

QDODBODD 

aaamaooa 

QDBDDDaa 

DBDaaaoa 
■QaaanQa 

Drawiag-in Draft 

aaumoamm 

IIDDHUD 
Reed Plan 

Linings are usually made in solid 
black color, or in fancy bright color- 
ed stripes, upon a black ground. The 
colors forming the stripe patterns are 
cherry red, cadet blue, yellow, red, 
brown, etc. 

The glazing machine consists main- 
ly of a large copper cylinder, four or 
five feet in diameter. This cylinder is 
heated to a high degree of intensity 
by either gas or steam. 



As the cylinder revolves, there are 
a series of rollers working against its 
surface, and running in an opposite di- 
rection. These rollers are set in the 
machine frame above the cylinder and 
at regular distances, in much the same 
manner as the workers and stripper on 
a woolen eard. 

The yarn is fed to the machine 
through a pair of feed rollers, from 
which it passes over the face of the 
cylinder, and under the small rollers, 
or, in other words, between the cylin- 
der and the small rollers, after which 
it is delivered by a pair of rollers, sim- 
ilar to the feed rollers. The yarn is 
run through the machine twice, the 
object being to submit all parts of its 
surface to the friction, to cause the 
glaze to come up. 

The linings can be woven on any 
loom which contains a sufficient num- 
ber of harnesses to complete the 
weave, though satin weaves are often 
employed, and this makes possible the 
use of cam looms, which are probably 
more economical for such cloth pro- 
duction. 

Lots of trouble is thus developed by 
the fancy strapping required to pro- 
duce the satin weave effects. 

Good results are obtained by using 
plain, single box loom, having a dobby 
attached. 

To finish this fabric, the goods are 
taken from the loom and lightly 
starched, then run through the calen- 
der two or three times to set the 
smooth, glazed finish. 

There are many lining fabrics made 
to-day produced from grey yarns, and 
after being woven are bleached and 
dyed. These fabrics are then run 
through a machine which contains 
rolls with fine lines engraved upon 
them. This is often known as a mill- 
ing process. It has a tendency to flat- 
ten the threads composing the cloth, 
and it impresses upon them many fine 
lines. These lines reflect the light and 
give a high percentage of luster. On 
many of these cloths an examination 
with an ordinary magnifying glass will 
show the very fine lines which are 
impressed upon the fabric. Probably a 
large percentage of lining fabrics are 
made from grey yarns, and piece-dyed 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



461 



at present. This is the most econom- 
ical method, for it eliminates a great 
many expensive processes. 
CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 1,000—23 inches in reed, two 
ends per dent; 62 picks l-30s black 
cotton filling, l-20s cotton (glazed 
warp) yarn. 

Warp pattern: 10 black, 4 cadet 
blue, 10 black, 4 yellow. Weight, about 
2% ounces; finish, 20% inches. Eight 
harness satin weave; warp effect face. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Cotton linings are made of various 
counts of yarn, according to what 
grade of linings is wanted. In this ar- 
ticle we will consider that the cotton 
warp yarn is l-20s combed, and the 
filling yarn l-30s. The yarn for linings 
of this grade would be spun in mills 
of the second division, as given in a 
previous lesson, although yarns for 
linings are made in all three divisions 
of mills. 

THE RAW STOCK 

used should be of a fair grade, with a 
staple of about 1% inches. This is 
put through a bale breaker and from 
here carried by a series of endless lat- 
tices to its proper bin. 

The bins to hold the different grades 
of cotton should be plainly marked on 
both ends, showing the kind, grade 
and length of staple, so that no mis- 
takes will occur through guesswork. If 
different lengths of staple get mixed 
together it will cause a great deal of 
trouble at the machines, having their 
rolls set at a certain distance of one 
length of staple. 

The cotton is fed to the bale break- 
er in the manner described in the last 
lesson. The cotton is allowed to dry 
out as much as possible before being 
fed to the opener. The good waste is 
mixed in at the bins. This class of 
cotton passes through an opener and 
either two or three processes of pick- 
ing (generally two processes being 
used). If only two processes are used 
the particulars given for the interme- 
diate picker may be omitted. Use the 
different speeds of the opener and 
pickers as given in a previous lesson. 
The total weight of the lap at the 



front end of the breaker picker is 50 
pounds, or 16 ounces to the yard. This 
is put up at the intermediate and 

DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE 
and this lap at the front end has a 
total weight of 37 pounds, or 12 ounces 
to the yard. This lap in turn is put up 
at the finisher picker and doubled four 
into one. It is at this point that the 
cut-roving waste is mixed in in a pro- 
portion of three laps of raw stock to 
one lap of cut roving. The total 
weight of lap at the front is 35 pounds, 
or 12V 2 ounces to the yard. The laps 
are then put up at the card, the draft 
of which should not be less than 120. 
A large doffer should be used; the 
card should be stripped three times a 
day and ground at least once a 
month. 

The cylinder speed is 160 revolu- 
tions per minute; speed of licker-in, 
300 revolutions per minute. The top 
flats should make one complete revolu- 
tion every 35 minutes. The production 
of the card should be 500 pounds per 
week of 60 hours, the weight of the 
sliver being 50 grains per yard. The 
sliver (in cans) to be used for warp 
yarn is collected and passed to the 

SLIVER LAP MACHINE, 
or, as it is sometimes called, the small 
doubler; here it is doubled 14 into 1 
and made into a lap. This sheet of lap 
weighs 395 grains to the yard. Six of 
these laps are put up at the ribbon lap 
machine, or, as it is sometimes called, 
the large doubler. These are doubled 
into one sheet of lap, which weighs 
260 grains per yard. Six of these laps 
are put up at the comber and made 
into a sliver weighing 45 grains per 
yard. The speed of the comber should 
be about 90 nips per minute. The ma- 
chine is set so as to take out 18 per 
cent of waste. The draft of this ma- 
chine for this class of cotton should 
be about 27.50. 

This sliver is then put through two 
processes of drawing, the weight of 
the sliver at the front of the finisher 
drawing being 70 grains per yard. The 
speed of the front rolls of this ma- 
chine is 350 revolutions per minute. 
Either metallic or leather covered top 
rolls may be used. The sliver is put 
through the slubber and made into .50 



462 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



hank roving. This roving is passed 
through 

TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, 
the hank roving at each being as fol- 
lows: At first intermediate, 1.50; at 
second intermediate, 4.50. This is then 
taken to the ring spinning room and 
spun into 20s yarn, using a frame hav- 
ing a spindle gauge of 2% inches, a 
2-inch diameter ring, a 7-inch length 
of traverse, a spindle speed of 9,400 
revolutions per minute, and a twist per 
inch of 21.24. This yarn is next spool- 
ed, then warped, after which it is put 
through the slasher. 

The weights and processes used for 
THE FULLING YARNS 
are different from the above. Starting 
at the card, the draft should be about 
100; the flats make one complete rev- 
olution every 50 minutes; the sliver 
weighs 65 grains per yard, and the 
production is 700 pounds per week. 
This is then put through three proc- 
esses of drawing, the weight of the 
sliver at the finisher drawing being 73 
grains per yard. The slubber roving 
is .55 hank. This is put through two 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing being as follows: At the first in- 
termediate 2.00 and at the second 7.25 
hank. This roving is then taken to 
either the ring spinning or the mule 
room and spun into 30s yarn. If the 
former, use a frame having a gauge of 
2| inches; diameter of ring, 1| inches; 
length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of 
spindles, 8,300 revolutions per minute; 
twist per inch, 19.17. 



diy aniline black is also dyed in some 
cases, and the oxidized aniline salt 
black is dyed to a large extent. The 
new sulphur blacks are superseding 
all other blacks. 

The black and colored prints are 
printed with resist colors, and after- 
ward padded with aniline black, and 
finished with calendered beetle or 
schreiner finish. Most finishes are 
very bright and glazed. 



CASHMERE TWILL 

Cashmere twill is a light-weight, 
single cloth, weighing from 2y 2 to 3 
ounces per yard, finished at 27 to 28 
inches wide, and composed of about 
l-20s cotton warp, and l-16s to l-20s 
cotton or cotton shoddy filling. 

It is usually woven with an even or 
uneven sided twill weave, such as ? 

2 

or I — ; , the warp being all black, of 
dyed yarn, and the pattern being print - 



Weave 

□CDDODnB 
ODDQaQBQ 
□QQQQBCO 
DQDOBDDD 
QQCMDOOa 
DdBCiaDGQ 
OHaDDODD 

■aonaaoa 

Drawing-ra Draft 

DDMDDM 

■■DDHGn 

Reed Plan 



onnnon 

DIIDDIIQ 
■■DQMDO 
■DdHQQa 

dqhqch 

diidoiiq 

■■DDMQQ 

■anaaaaa 

Weave 



DDDBDDDB 
□OBDQOBC! 
OBOODBDD 

■DDDBona 

Drawing- in Draft 



DOIIDCII 

■■GDBiaO 

Reed Flan 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Many of the cheap linings are dyed 
a logwood black. By some people log- 
wood black is asked for because the 
goods gain in weight, as logwood 
feeds the goods, adds weight and sub- 
stance, and all artificial blacks reduce 
the weight of the cloth. 

The logwood bath generally used is 
the steam black. First, the goods are 
padded in a solution of logwood about 
5 degrees Tw., dried over steam cans, 
run through a solution of bichromate 
of soda four ounces to the gallon, and 
then run through a steam box, and 
afterward rinsed well in water. A one- 



ed upon the face of the goods after the 
weaving operation. 

THE PATTERNS 
are generally small effects, produced 
by printing drabs or greys upon the 
black ground in imitation of twist yarn 
effects, the whole forming somewhat 
the appearance of a fancy mixed 
woolen fabric. 

This style of cloth was used princi- 
pally in the manufacture of ladies' fall 
novelty suitings, and can be woven on 
either the plain cam or a medium- 
weight loom having dobby attached. 

To finish this fabric, the cloth is 
taken from the loom and run through 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



463 



the printing machine to produce the 
pattern upon the face of the fabric, 
after which the goods are lightly sized 
and calendered. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 700 — 30 inches in reed, 2 ends 
per dent — 16 ends selvage - — 45 de- 
grees twill weave; l-20s cotton warp 
(black) ; 42 picks l-16s cotton filling. 

1,166 ends plus 16 equals 1,182 ends 
plus 5 per cent take-up in warp in 
weaving equals 1,227 yards l-20s cot- 
ton warp equals 1.17 ounces; 42 picks 
times 30 inches equals 1,260 yards 
l-16s cotton filling equals 1.5 ounces. 

1.17 ounces warp weight plus 1.5 
ounces filling weight equals 2.67 
ounces per yard. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The warp yarn used in the manufac- 
ture of cashmere twills may be made 
in either the first or second division of 
mills as given in a previous lesson. 
The filling yarn may be made in a cot- 
ton or in a woolen mill. For this ar- 
ticle we will consider the warp and 
filling yarns to be l-20s. For this 
count of yarn a medium grade of cot- 
ton should be used. A bale breaker 
would not be used, although it would 
improve the yarn. The mixing would 
be done by hand, and as large a mix- 
ing as possible would be made at one 
time. By doing so there will be a sav- 
ing of time and also a more even yarn 
will be secured. The bales of cotton 
should be sampled and mixed in the 
manner described in a previous lesson. 

As the mixing is done by hand it 
should be allowed to stand as long as 
possible, so as to dry out, thus making 
the cotton 

EASIER TO HANDLE. 
It is at this point that the good waste 
from the machines up to the slubber 
is used. This waste should be pulled 
apart as much as possible before be- 
ing thrown into the mixing, so that it 
will not work around the pin beater of 
the opener, as it is apt to do when 
left coiled up. The cotton is put 
through an opener and two processes 
of picking. 

The speed of the beater of the open- 
er should be about 1,700 revolutions 



per minute. The hopper should always 
be kept half full and the fly cleaned 
out at frequent and regular intervals. 
The speed of a two-bladed rigid type 
beater of the breaker picker for this 
stock should be about 1,500 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight at the 
front is 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the 
yard. 

THE LAPS 
are doubled four into one at the fin- 
isher picker, and it is at this point 
that the cut-roving waste laps are mix- 
ed in in the proportion of three laps 
of raw stock to one lap of cut waste. 
The speed of this beater (two-bladed 
rigid type) is 1,450 revolutions per 
minute. This will give the cotton pass- 
ing through the machine about 42 
beats per inch of cotton fed. The total 
weight of the lap at the front should 
be 39 pounds or 14 ounces to the yard. 
Take good care of your machines and 
keep them well oiled, cleaned and set, 
and the work will be greatly improv- 
ed, both as to appearance and pro- 
duction. The lap is put up at the card 
and the draft should not exceed 100. 
The flats should make one complete 
revolution every 45 minutes. 

THE CARDS 
should be cleaned at least twice a day 
and the fly taken from underneath 
once a day. The strip waste should 
be gathered four times a day. The 
cards should be stripped (doffers and 
cylinders) three times a day and 
ground once a month, except in the 
case of accidents, when they should 
be ground until the wire is level and 
sharp. Light grinding should always 
be used. Use as large a doffer as pos- 
sible, use either one having a 26 or 27 
inch diameter. The production of a 
card on this stock should be about 
800 pounds for a week of 60 hours. 
The card sliver is then put through 

THREE PROCESSES 
of drawing frames. Metallic rolls 
may be used to great ad- 
vantage on this grade of stock. The 
sliver at the front of the finisher 
drawing frame should weigh about 70 
grains to the yard. The slubber draws 
this sliver into .40 hank roving. It ia 
then put through the fly frames. The 



464 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



roving for warp yarns is then taken to 
the ring spinning room and the rov- 
ing for filling may be taken to either 
the ring spinning or the mule room. 
For this class of goods the filling yarn 
is generally ring spun. For a warp 
frame spinning 20s use the following 
particulars: Gauge of frame, 2| 
inches; diameter of ring, 2 inches; 
length of traverse, 7 inches; twist per 
inch, 21.24; speed of spindle, 9,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. For a filling 
frame use a frame having a 2| inches 
gauge, iy 2 inches diameter ring, Qy 2 
inches length of traverse, the yarn 
having 14.50 turns per inch, and the 
speed of the spindles is 7.300 revolu- 
tions per minute. The warp yarn is 
then spooled, warped and put through 
a slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BLACK WARP. 
15 per cent sulphur black, if for jet 
black, immedial NN., if for blue black, 
immedial NB., 15 per cent sodium 
sulphide 30 per cent Glauber's, 
3 per cent soda ash. Dyed in a warp 
dyeing machine. After the goods are 
woven and cleaned with a good soap- 
ing and rinsing, they are sent to the 
printer and printed with different pat- 
terns and styles, to imitate mixed 
woolen fabrics, and are then finished 
and made up like woolen goods. 



BAYADERE MADE ENTIRELY 
OF MERCERIZED COTTON 

In a previous article a description 
was given of a "bayadere" fabric, in 
which the materials of which it was 
constructed were cotton, worsted and 
silk and whose foundation was a "rep" 
weave. 

It is now intended to show another 
"bayadere" fabric, but which is com- 
posed entirely of mercerized cotton 
and whose structure is based upon the 
plain weave, the finished width 36 
inches and the weight 4% ounces per 
finished yard. 

Such a fabric is shown in Fig. 1, 
which is a very good illustration of 



this class of patterns, whose chief fea- 
ture is the zigzag stripe extending 
across the cloth in the direction of 
the weft. 

The size and elaborate effect of this 
pattern make it resemble a jacquard 
effect, but it can in fact be produced 
on a comparatively low number of har- 
nesses. 

Fig. 2 shows the full design, which 
is complete on 64 warp threads and 48 
picks. 

As before mentioned, the plain 
weave is used as the 

BASIS OF THE FULL DESIGN, 
and between the stripes (ground) all 
the threads are interlaced on the plain 




Fig. 1. 

weave and form a single cloth; but 
the stripes themselves (figure) are 
formed by lowering all the fine threads 
(marked I at top of full design, Fig. 2) 
and raising all the coarse threads 
(marked . ) to the surface of the cloth 
and thus forming a double cloth, with 
each of the two single cloths thus 
formed interlaced with the rlain 
weave, throughout the stripe or baya- 
dere. 

Fig. 3 illustrates the drawing-in 
draft, which requires 18 shafts, 10 for 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



465 



the ground and 8 for the figure 
threads. 

Fig. 4 shows the reeding plan. 

The material and arrangement of 
the threads are as follows: 

Warp: 6 threads 2-40s blue mercer- 
ized cotton (one in a heddle), four 
threads 2-20s black mercerized cot- 
ton (two in a heddle) ; total, 10 threads 
in one repeat of pattern. 

950 reed — 38% inches wide to finish 
36 inches, 40 picks per inch. 



weft the same yarn is wound double, 
or two threads on a bobbin, which is 
done for the following reason: In many- 
cloths from which this particular pat- 
tern was derived the black cotton 
used was very much heavier, that is, 
about 2-10s or 2-12s, with one thread 
introduced in one heddle, instead of 
two threads, which made the fabric 
appear very coarse and open in tex- 
ture; therefore, by using two threads 
of 2-20s the same weight of yarn is 
employed, but being finer, and the two 




aaa ■ ■ ■ a a a a a • a a aaaaeara ■■■■■■• waaaaaa aiaaaaaaa 
as, ■•«■■«•■■» r ■■■■*»» ■■■■■■■ aaaaaaa ■■•■■■■■■■ 
■■■ ■»■■•■•■•■'*:■• a • B •■■■■■■■! 



■ ■ a ■ 

tai a a • r « • i b«i»H aaaaaaa k«tii» iiihm ■ laa* ■ ■ a ■ ■ 
■■■■■•i«i ■■•■■■■ ■••••■■ •»■•■■■ aaaaaaa aaaaaaa •■■■•■ 



■ ■ ■ : • ■ 
.V. ••-* 

■ ■ ■ a 



■■■■■•■■•■■a m-"0',» ■ ■ • a a a ■ ,. a a a a a ■ ■■ 

■■■ « a • laaaaaa ■■■■■■• aaaaaaa a a ■ ■ sa«a*aa aaaaaai tssisaa ■ 

■ * a ■■■■■■■ aaaaaaa aaaaaa* a a a a aaaaaaa aiaaaai aaaaaia ■■ 



• a a 

■ .a 
■ I ■ a ■ a ■ a ■ a a 
■ a ■ a a ■ ■ a ■ a ■ a 

■■■■ aaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaa aa«i 



aaaaaaaaa aaaaaaa aaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaa aaauaaa aaaaaaa 
aaa aaaaaaa aaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaa* aaaaaaa aaaaaa- a 
aai alaaaaaaaa* a a aaaaaa a a z 
■ * a aaaBBiaaaaa ■ a a ■ ■ a a a _ a a a 



K "a 1 ! .•%"«%"»"«%*a%~B 
aaa Aaaaaaaaa 



a asrsaaa 

aalaliaa aaaaaaa a ■aaiBaaaaaaaa a a * ■ a a aaaaaaa am 
ibb an BBBBaaaaaaBBaaBBBa a a_a a ■ a a a I a 
■i i ii ■aaaaaaaaa a aaaaaa a a. » a a ■ a a a a 



S iniinjiis 



Fig. 2. 



Filling: 6 picks 2-40s blue mercer- 
ized cotton (single), 2 picks 2-20s 
black mercerized cotton (double) ; to- 
tal, 8 picks in one repeat of pattern. 

Fig. 5 shows the chain draft re- 
quired. The back picks must positive- 
ly come on the bars marked. 

It will be noted that the black 2-20s 
cotton used in the warp is introduced 
2 threads in one heddle, and in the 



threads lying side by side, the cloth 
is given a much finer and closer tex- 
ture. 

COLORS. 

In cloths of this description the bay- 
adere stripe is generally black, which 
gives very great freedom in the choice 
of colors for the ground, as any good 
color may be combined with black 
without any danger of the other suf- 



466 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



fering by being placed in juxtaposi- 
tion. 

THE REQUIRED LOOM. 

In selecting the kind of loom for 
weaving the above cloth, almost any 
make of loom can be used which will 
carry 20 shafts and have the capacity 
of carrying at least 2 shuttles. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
PURPLE. 
On a tannine and tartar emetic mor- 
dant, dye in fresh bath, 1 per cent 
methylviolet 3R. 

On tannine mordanted yarn dye with 
y 2 per cent rhodamine 5G., which dyes 
a pink; for a rose use 2 per cent color. 



noDoaoBaaanoaaaaag 

eooGooaaogDaaoaaaa 
DGDaoaaaaaaagBODa 
aoaooaaoaaaaaaoaaa 
aaaoaDaooaooaaaaoD 
DaaaaaaaoooaoooBaa 
aaaaoaaQoaoaoaBaon 
DaaQoaoaaooaaaaBaa 
oaaaaaaoaa naaonoan 
SaaaaBaaa □□nuDDQna 
QaaaaaaaD ooDanaooa 
ooaoaraoaDcacBcaca 

ODOOOnOOaCOOBQaDOC' 

nnDCDaacaaDaDBQDDa 
aonoooaaaaaoBaooao 
aoGGaaaaaaacDBaaaa 
doboooqoc] a ODoaaaaa 
oaoBODDDDooaaaaaoo 
aoaaaoaaaoHDoaonoa 

OOOOOnDOOOOBOOODDO 

DoaaaooDDoBOoDoaoa 
aaGaaaaaaaoBDDooon 
DaaaooaDO □bocooooo 
ogaaaanoo 008000000 
■aaoaoaa nooonooooo 
DBopaooaoaoDaooooa 
oaooaoioBaroDOoc na 

HoogoaooD aggoaoaaa 
ooggnaaBoogooDooa 
oDaggnaoDBogDooooa 
oaagaoaoBOOOnoDOOa 
aoagoaoaOBDOoDoooo 
BoagooooonODoDoooa 
DBogoooaaoooooaooa 

DDOgODOOO OBOODOODn 

ooopaaoooaOBnoooD' . 
ooogaaaoaoBOooorna 
oaaggaoooGOBonoono 
poqqqgnaaoBDaaDoga 
ooaaaaaaoooBoooooo 
oaBoaooooaooDoaor □ 
dogb Jooooaoooooooo 
oaogaoooaaooBooooa 
DaagaaaaonoooBDCDa 
oogggjnaaaGDBOoDOn 
oogggganooooDPnona 
oaogaonoooooBDoooa 
aaagaanoDnaooBaaGo 
ooggBGGaa oaaaaaaao 
oagoaBGDOonooDnooa 
DaaoDDnGoooo obcoo 
oagoooaoooDooooBoa 
onaoDOocananaoBOOo 
oagooODoa nnooooBOa 
oaaaaoDoanooonBGoo 
oaaoaooooDonronBoa 
ooDOoOBoaaooororoa 
ooggnaaBaooocGnooo 
ooaciQaaoooooDGnnBD 
oooaoaoooooaaaGaGB 

DOOODOnaOOODOGOOBO 

§nDDooi3aooooooaooB 
□DOoonaaooaoaaoBo 
□ooooaoaooaDOoDaB 



s bo 



fc BS. 



bo 



Dl 



.5 o 



bfl 



CD Ol 



BO 
BO 
OB 
BO 
OB 



BO 
OB 

OB 



Cbai.i Draft. 

OOOBOBOBOOOBOBOBOB - 

ooBoaosoooaoBOBoao - 

GIDI3IGIGIC1GIGIII 
BGBOBOBOBOBG BOBOBB 
DBOBGBGBQBOBCBCBBB 
aGBOBOBOBOBCBCBCBB 
OBOBGBGBOBCBCBCBBB 
BOBOBOBD BOBOBOBCBB 
OBOBQBOO DOGBCBCBOB - 
BOBOBGGO GOBOBGBOBO - 
GBOBOBGBDBCBCBBBBB 
BOBOfOIOBOBOBOBBBB 
GBGBGBG.^GBGBCBBBBB 
BOB JB JBOIOBCBCBBBB 
GKGBJBGiGBCBGBBl»B 
IJIJUlGlGICICIIIt 
OBOBGGOODDOBCBOBCB ■ 
BGBGGaaGaOBQBOBCBO • 
DHGBJ5 JIDBGSIIIIII 
1]«D1J]JICICIIIIII 
GBGB I1JB1ICIIIIIII 
BliniJ] icirilllll 
GIJIJI EjIGIIHIII 
• BGBJB 11 IBCBCBBBBBB 
+d GBGOGGGGGBCBCBCBOB - 
g BGGGGIGIGBCBOIOBCBO- 
P OBOB JB )i:iIII|IIDI 
.- BGBGBOaGBGriBBBBBD 
Ph DBGHG 1 I 9IIIIII I 
BGB BJiniL'IIHIlia 
I BOBGBGBDBBBB8BBGB 
BG3GB 1IG1GIIHIIID 
OOOOGaOBDBCBCBCBCB - 
aOOGaOBOBOBOBCBCBO ' 
OBOB1BOBOBBBBBOBOB 
BOBGBOBOBCBBBBBCBO 
OBGflOBOBOaBBBBCBCfl 
B DSGBOflOBOBBBBBDBO 
OB HG1GBGBBBBBCBOB 
■GB JHGB1ICBBBBBGBD 
DOGGO BOB a BCBCBOBCB ■ 
GGOGBOBOa OBCBOBOBO • 
OBOBOBDBDBBBOaCBL B 
B BOBGB-IBGBBBOBCBD 
aBGBGBGBGBBBCBaaCB 
BOBOBGBOBGBBBGBOBD 
OBOBGBOBGBBBCBGBOB 
BOBOBOBOaOBBBOBOBO 



Fig. 5. 



FINISH. 

A dry finish only is required for this 
fabric and the process is as follows: 
After being burled and mended the 
cloth is brushed and steamed and 
then pressed so as ■ to give as much 
luster as possible. After being rolled, 
the cloth is then ready for shipment. 



SCARLET. 
3 per cent diamine scarlet, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
CHINA BLUE. 
On tannine mordanted yarn dye 1 
per cent new methylene blue GG. 
SKY BLUE. 
3 per cent diamine sky blue, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



46? 



NAVY BLUE. 
* per cent diamine black BH., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
TURQUOISE BLUE. 
On a tannine mordant dye 1% per 
cent turquoise blue G. 

EMERALD GREEN. 
On a tannine mordant dye 2 per cent 
emerald green cryst. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
y 2 per cent diamine fast yellow B., 1 
per cent diamine brown B, 20 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
BROWN. 
2 per cent tetrazo brown R., 1 per 
cent tetrazo brown GG., 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
RED. 
4 per cent benzo fast red 4 BS., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
HELIOTROPE. 
2 per cent tetrazo lilac R., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
ORANGE. 
2 per cent tetrazo orange TR., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

SLATE. 
y 2 per cent diamine black BH., y 2 
per cent oxydiamine black A., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
+~»~+ 



PIQUE 



Pique is a heavy cotton material 
woven in corded or figured effects. 
The goods are used for such purposes 
as ladies' so-called tailor-made suits, 
vestings, shirt fronts, cravats, bed- 
spreads and the like. 

The plainest and most common fab- 
rics of pique are those in which the 
pattern consists of straight cords ex- 
tending across the cloth in tbe direc- 
tion of the weft. In the construction 
of these fabrics both a face and a 
back warp are required and the 
cords are produced by all the back 
warp threads being raised at inter- 
vals of 6, 8, etc., picks over two or 
more picks of the face cloth, which has 
a tendency to draw down on the sur- 
face of the fabric. These fabrics are 



generally woven and sold in a white 
state, but in recent years there has 
been a certain percentage of the goods 
made with colors, one color being used 
for the ground of the cloth and another 
for the ribbed or tucked portion. 
Some seasons this is noted more than 
at other times, but color is sometimes 
used. 



bfl 



msamaamnumita 
camaamaamoam 

■DDBDDBaDBaa 
■aBBffiBflQBBfflB 
DCIBOaBOOBaOB 
BDDBDDBQnBDn 
BSBBOBBSBB^B 
□□BOQBOOBDDB 
■OOBDQBDDBaa 

Fig. 2. 



The face warp threads are generally 
finer than the back warp threads and 
are in the proportion of two threads 
for the face and one thread for the 
back. 

In the diagram Fig. 1, which is a 
sectional cut of a fabric woven with 
the design Fig. 2, the heavy black lines 
represent the back warp threads, and 
it will be noticed that they are raised 
over two of the face picks, represented 
by the small dots (.). 

The heavy dots (.) represent the 
back picks, which interlace with the 
back warp threads only. The fine 
lines represent the face warp threads. 



468 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 

In the heavier and better grades of of binding the face and back cloths 

pique, heavy or coarse picks, called together. As a result of this method 

wadding, are used to increase the of binding, the cloth is characterized 

weight and also to give more promi- by the embossed appearance of the 

nence to the cord effect. They are in- figures. In the best grades heavy 

troduced between the face and back wadding picks are used and these tend 

cloths, as illustrated by the diagram to greatly heighten the raised effect 

Design. 

ISIICIISIiniiailDIIBIIDIISIIDIISIIDIISIIDIISIIDIIffillDI 

G3/ina«afflBaa»Da«aDBn3BanBOQBaDBnDBnDBJLjHaDBnDiiacBnDBcaB 
■aiiDiiDiiDiiDiiaiiDiiaiiDiiaiiaiiDiiDiiDiiDiioiiaiiDi 

■ nil ii:!!:!! II mil ii»h ■■:■■ ■■^■■^■■^■■LbS*I 

na«aaBaaBaaBafflBaaBaaBnaBaD»naBaDBaaBDOBaDBDDBDnBnnBDDB 

Bl. ■ ■ IB G1B1 llllllUliail 'JBBQiBGBBGBB.-.'aBDBflaaBnBBcSBL BBna 

BqjaaGBGGBaaBaaB^nBaaBGGaaGMGGBaGBGGBaGBGDBacBCQBCGBan 
i:wi Jii:ii:iiA|f iiv» ii.ii:ii:ii ■■:■■■■ nii.i! i 

DqBggBjDBagBaaBaaBafflBaGBaaBaaaaaBaDBGaBaaBDaBaaBDDBGDB 

BqBBGBBGaBGaaGBBGBBGBBGBBaBaGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGaBGBBGaBDB 

BqaBaaBaaBQaBaaBfflaBaaBfflDBaGBaaBaaBaaBQaBaaBGaaaaBQQBGD 

■GBflSaflqBBSflaGaaSBBGBB^aBGBBSaBaaBffiBBGBB^BBGBaaBBGBBffiG 

aaBaaBaaBaaBaaBaaBafflBaaBaaBaa«auBaaBaQBaaaQaaaaaGGBaaB 

BGflBGaBGBBGaaqBaGBBaBaGBBGBBGBBGBaGaBGB«GaBGBBGBaGBBGB 

■£BBGaa«aagaB3aaGaa»aaGBB-3aaGaa*BaGBa&aBGaB£aacBa*aaGa 
2352SS2 B_ J S--S" .■-!■- !■ bmb.ibi bdgbdgb gbBqbdIBddB 

B^BBaBBJBBOBBjBBOMDBBOBBGBBQBBGBBDBBQBaOBBGaBQBBDBBCB 

BGGBGaBaaa.:aBaaBGaBGaBa'GBGaBaG«aaBGaBGaBaaBGGBsaB.naa&a 
BGfla-BaaGaasaaGaa-?aaGBB>?a*GBB«aanB B ^aBGaaQaanaBlBBGiia^a 

aGBBGaaGBB aBiJBBG«BaBBGBBiJBBQBaOBBaBBGBaGBBaBBGBBGBBGB 

BGGBa3BoaBGa^GBGaBaGBGGBa::iBGaBGaBGQBcaB*"hcB*a5a"aG 

■ :■■■_■■:-■■ BB>SBBGBaSBBGBa^BflGBB-2BBGaB^lBGlS^BBGliB^BBHa 
aaBG^BGaBGGBGGBGGBnaBaGBGGBQDBGCBGGBGeBGGBaSBaGBaaScQB 

BaaacjBBGBBDBBaaBaBaaBBaBBDaBaBBaBaDaBDBBaBBaBBaBBDBaaS 
aaaBDaBaQBoaBoaBQaBnDaaoBoaBnnBaDafflaBDnBaDBDDBDDBanann 
Baaa«BBaBB^aBJBBv-BB:«B-<-BB.aB^BaDBaiBBDBBiaBaaakBaaBB»B 
nGB3aBanBanBaDBaaBaDBanBaDBDaBnaBnaBDfflBDnBDna"™BDaBDDB 
BnaBaBaaBBDBBaBBaBBaBBaBBDBaaBBDBBaBBaaBDaBaBaaBaaaanS 

«DDBDdBDDBnDBDnBDDBnDBnDBDnBnaBaaBfflDBaDBDnBDDBa"BaDBDn 
Fig. 4. 

Figure 3, designated by dots o. of the figures. The effect produced is 

In the lightest and cheapest grades, about the same as when two light 

neither any wadding nor back picks cloths are laid together with wadding 

are used. In this case the back warp between and then stitched together on 

threads float on the back of the fab- a sewing machine, the stitching being 

ric, except when raising over the face in the form of figures. 

picks to form the cord. White Marseilles bedspreads are the 

Drawing-in-Draft. 

aanaaannnaDDoaGnaanaD3naDDDaDDnnnDDDnnnanaaannDnDnnDBD 
DaDoaaaaaGaaaaanaaGnDaDDDDnDDUDDnaGnaGanDODaan^DDBaDDa 
ggggg jaaaGGGaaaaaaaaaaaaaQQuaaaaaaGaaajaaaGaaaBaaaaaaa 
nGaaannnaDaaaaDaananDaaaaDDnDnaaaaaDiJDaaaanBDDDDnn^nan 
naaaaaaaj jaaaaannaDaaDnDnDaDnnnDDDnaaaDaBaDDaoDDaDDGDa 
an jnaannnnDnnaaaaa "aaaaaananaaGnGGaaaBaaacaacGanaGaaaa 
DDaDainaaaaaaaaDDanaDDaDzianziaa^aQDBJDDD^nDDanDDDDnaDaa 
aaaaaoQanonaQ-jmaDnoonanaoaoaaQBnca'DQDOoanonQonnnaDon 
DajDaDnaaGnnDanannaDDDDDaDananaanDannnnDnaDDDDnnnnnnDn 
DnaaDaaannnDDDnanD aannnnBGoaaaQQaaaaaQonncnnnonaDanoa 
aaoaaaDQaQQnacQnuDaoaDBaQOQDQDQQDOQQnDQCiDQaDoooacaoona 
auaaaaGaaaaaaanaaaaBaaaaGGGnaGaGaoGaaaaaaaGaacaaaacaan 
DaQOGDanaciDaacnDBaaaaaaGGGaG jd iGGGGaaGGGGGGDaGaaDcaaac 
GGaaaaaaoaaaaBaaGaaaaGaGGaGaaaDGGGaaaaGaaaaaaaaaaaaaao 
aaaa DoanDaaaaannDoaaaaQQDaan DDDaDnnaanaDDaDDaDanaaDDan 
DnaaGanBaaaaDnDnaDGnaaDDDaannDDaDnnanDDODDanDaDDnannDa 
DonaBannnaaaaDananaDDDDDaanaDDDoananDDDDDnDnDDODaDDDDD 
DBaDDDDonDnnanoDDanDnnDnDDanannnnrj^nnDDDnnmDanDDDDDDa 
ananDBnnnnaanDaDGBnaDnnBaDDDnBnDDaaBDDDDDBDDDnDBDnDnnB 
nanBnaDDDBaDOQaBDaaaDBuaauDBaanaDB DDaDaBauQD aaaaDDaaan 
DnBnoDaDBOonDaBannaaBQnDDnBDDnanBnDnnDBLiuncxjBuunnnBDnn 
BDDaaaBaaDanBDaDDDBDDanDBaujDDBGaaDaaziDDDnBaaDaaaDDDDa 

Reeding Plan. 

DDaaBaannBBBaaaBflBGnnBBBnanBBBDGaBBBDaaBBBaDnaBBaaDBBB 

aaaGaGBBBGGGBaBGGDaBBaGGaaaGGDBBBGGGBBBGaGBBBaaGBflBaaa 

Fig. 5. 

FIGURED PIQUE. highest and most elaborate form of 

In the figured pique the binding of piques, and in these the pattern cov- 

the back warp threads into the face ers the entire spread. Geometrical 

cloth is not done in straight lines as in figures, birds, foliage and most every 

the plain pique, but the binding points conceivable manner of form are used, 

are introduced so as to form figures, and all being embossed, the ultimate 

These fabrics are woven in the white effect is very fine. In the example 

and the figures are purely the result which we shall take, a small figure 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



469 



pique is given, with the following for 

the ANALYSIS OF THE FABRIC: 

Width of warp in reed (without sel- 
vage), 38 inches; width of fabric fin- 
ished, 36 inches; ends per inch, 100, 
ends in warp, 3,600-1,200 x 3 reed. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 
per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, 
Chain Draft. 



■ ■J»fflGfflDBaSDSD5DffiLJBUffiU 
DBaBBOBaOQaCOQQDDDppDp 
■■■■DDDaDDODaDCDDDDaDp- 



■■■iafflaffiaBOBD&Ljaugu^uw 
nSnBaDfflafflaDaDQaaaoongD 

■■■BaoDaaGaQaaaaaoaapp— 
• nBaHaaaaaDsas'- noooaona 

If^nnnnnnnrnnnaaaDSD 



nSaSaaGaaGGGGaaa*G*aGp 
■■■aaa^oaaaaaaawaBGapG— 

■■■BaDGDDGnGGnnaGpGpGG 

Fig. 6. 



from loom, 91 ounces; shrinkage of 
fabric in length during finishing, I per 
cent; finished weight, 9 ounces. 

Dressing: 3 threads in pattern. One 
thread, l-30s white carded peeler cot- 
ton- 1 thread, 2-30s white carded 
peeler cotton; 1 thread, l-30s white 
carded peeler cotton; equals 3. 

Filling: 4 picks repeat of Pattern, 
168 picks per inch. One pick, 1-30S 
white carded peeler cotton; 1 pick, 
l-9s white carded peeler cotton, z 
picks, l-30s white carded peeler cot- 

° In Fig 4 is shown the full design. 

Fig 5 illustrates the drawing-m 
draft 'on 22 harnesses-4 required for 
the face warp threads and 18 for .he 
back warp threads. The reeding plan 
is also given. . 

Fig. 6 is the required chain aralt. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
For the plain pique a dobby loom 
having drop boxes aid from 4 to lb 
shafts only is required, but for the 
figured pique a loom of more intricate 
construction is required, and the 
Crompton & Knowles Loom Company 



build a loom especially adapted for the 
purpose. Their jacquard machine, 
which is of the rise and drop type, is 
especially adapted for the weaving of 
Marseilles quilts, and has features that 
dispense with the so-called plain 
card," using only the figure card. 
FINISHING. 
These fabrics, after being scoured 
and bleached, are hot pressed rolled or 
folded, and are then ready for ship- 
ment. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Pique is made up in various ways 
and is constructed of yarns, the count 
of which varies from very coarse to 
very fine. The fabric which is describ- 
ed is considered as being made up of 
l-30s and 2-30s in the warp and 1-dUs 
and l-9s in the filling. For making this 
grade of cloth the machinery found in 
the second division of mills would be 

THE COTTON USED 
would be a good grade of "peeler," of 
about lVs-inch staple. This cotton 
would be brought from the storehouse 
and each bale sampled; all those bales 
not up to sample should be laid one 
side. The bales of the same length 
of staple should be opened and fed 
to the bale breaker alternately from 
each bale in small lots at a time. From 
the bale breaker the cotton is carried 
to the bins by lattice work or by 
trunking and a blower and fan The 
mixing should be allowed to stand in 
the bins as long as possible before be- 
ing used, so that the cotton will be 
free from moisture. It is at this point 

that the • 

GOOD WASTE 



from the machines up to the slub- 
ber is mixed in, the sliver being torn 
into short lengths before being thrown 
into the mixing. The raw stock is put 
through an opener and either two or 
three processes of picking. If three 
processes of picking are used for the 
intermediate picker the same partic- 
ulars are followed as in the case ot 
the finisher except where noted. 

The hopper of the opener should be 
always kept more than half full of raw 



470 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



stock, so as to feed an even sheet of 
cotton to the breaker picker. The 
speed of a porcupine beater of this ma- 
chine should be about 1,050 revolutions 
per minute. The speed of a two-bladed 
rigid type beater for the breaker pick- 
er should be 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, the fan speed being 1,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front should be 40 
pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. If an inter- 
mediate picker is used, the laps are 
doubled four into one and the 

TOTAL WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the front should be 37 pounds, or 
a 13-ounce lap. These laps are put up 
at the finisher picker and doubled four 
into one. At this point the cut-rov- 
ing waste is mixed in, in the propor- 
tion of one lap of waste to three laps 
of raw stock. The speed of the beater 
should be about 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, which gives the cotton passing 
through the machine about 42 beats or 
blows per inch. The total weight of 
the lap at the front should be 35 
pounds, or a 12% -ounce lap. Look out 
for your fan drafts to see that they 
are properly regulated so as to obtain 
an even lap. The laps are then put 
up at the card. 

THE CARD 
should have a draft of not more than 
100. The count of wire fillet used 
should be medium, the wire for the 
tops and doffer being one number finer 
than for the cylinder. The card should 
be ground at least once a month and 
should be stripped three times a day. 
The flats should make one complete 
revolution every 50 minutes. Use a 
large doffer, either 26 or 27 inches in 
diameter. The weight of the sliver 
should be 65 grains per yard, the pro- 
duction for a week of 60 hours being 
750 pounds. The sliver is put through 
three processes of drawing frames; 
the speed of the front roll being 350 
revolutions per minute. The doublings 
are 6 into 1. The draft of the first 
intermediate is about 5.5, the second 
5.75, and the third 5.75; the sliver 
weighing at the front of the finisher 
about 72 grains per yard. The sliver is 
then put up at the slubber and made 
into .50 hank roving. This roving is 
then put through two process- 



es of fly frames, the hank 
roving at the first intermediate 
being 2.00, and at the second be- 
ing 7.50. This makes all the roving 
for this cloth, except for the 9s. This 
is made from a 2.00 hank roving. The 
roving for warp yarns is taken to the 
spinning room and made into 30s yarn. 
From here it is spooled and part of it 
twisted into 2-30s yarn, after which it 
is warped and slashed. The filling 
yarn may either be mule or ring spun. 
We will consider this yarn to be ring 
spun. The particulars to use for No. 
30s would be as follows: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1| inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; 
speed of spindle, 8,300 revolutions per 
minute; to spin 9s use 1%-inch di- 
ameter ring, 7-inch traverse, and a 
spindle speed of 6,200 revolutions per 
minute. Part of the 30s yarn is twist- 
ed into 2-30s. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
PEARL. 
Dye in the jigger dyeing machine 
with 15 gallons liquor, 50 pounds 
weight of goods, 175 degrees F., one- 
half pound of soda ash, one-half pound 
sulphide sodium, 1 pound common salt, 
3 ounces immedial black V ex., 1 ounce 
immedial brown B. Run the goods for 
40 minutes; add in two portions the 
dyestuffs; rinse and aftertreat with % 
per cent bichromate potash, % per 
cent sulphate copper, at 170 degrees 
F., and rinse well. Give a weak soap- 
ing if required. 

CREAM. 
Dye with the same proportions as 
for pearl, and in the same way, with 
one-half ounce immedial yellow D., 
one ounce immedial cutch G. 
BUFF. 
Dye with same proportions as pearl, 
with 6 ounces immedial bronze A. 
LIGHT SLATE. 
Dye with same proportions as pearl, 
6 ounces immedial black V. 
DRAB. 
As light slate; 2 ounces immedial 
black V; 6 ounces immedial bronze A. 
LIGHT BROWN. 
On the jigger, as pearl; 3 per cent 
immedial cutch G., 3 per cent sodium 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



471 



sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 15 per 
cent common salt. 

LIGHT OLIVE DRAB. 

Dye as pearl; one-half pound pyro- 
gene yellow M., 14 ounces pyrogene 
olive N.; 4 ounces pyrogene cutch 2G.; 
after-treat as pearl. 



MADRAS GINGHAM 

Madras gingham is distinctly a 
shirting fabric and is an article of fine 
quality. Zephyr gingham is a dress 
gingham and is lighter and of softer 
finish than the madras gingham. 

Madras gingham is distinguished 
from the common gingham by the fine- 
ness of the texture and the richness of 
the patterns employed. In the com- 
mon gingham the plain weave is 
chiefly used and the patterns consist 
only of stripes and checks formed by 
contrasting colors — principally white 
with some other color — and is chiefly 
made on cam looms. 

The Fabric. 




Fig. 1. 

In the madras ginghams 
VARIOUS WEAVES ARE USED 

in combination with the plain weave 
which is always used for the ground, 
while very often leno weaves are in- 
troduced for ornamentation. 

The number of colors used in con- 
junction with white often reaches as 
high as five and six in a single pattern, 
while printed yarns are extensively 
used with fine effect. 

Fig. 1 is a very neat illustration of a 
madras gingham in a leno stripe effect. 



The chief features of this pattern are 
the leno diamond stripe on a back- 
ground of old rose, and the heavy 
cords of white and of tan. The blue 
stripe between the white cords is also 
a prominent feature. 

ANALYSIS OF THE FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed (selvage in- 
cluded), 29*4 inches; width of fabric, 
finished, 28 inches; size of reed re- 
quired, 1,600 — ends per dent, 2 and 3; 
ends in warp, 2,616. 

For l-50s plain weave, 1% per cent 
take-up; for 3 -50s cords, no take-up : 
and for 3 -50s leno crossing threads 
50 per cent take-up. 

Number of beams required, 3 (on 
account of the various take-ups). 
Weight of fabric per yard from loom, 
1% ounces. 

Shrinkage of fabric in length during 
finishing, 2 per cent. Finished weight, 
1.92 ounces. 

Pattern for beaming: 

136 threads per pattern. 

19 repeats of pattern in warp. 



X 4 

1 

x 2 

1 
x 10 
• 1 



2 
x 8 

* 1 
x 6 

* 1 
x 10 



1 
x 2 
1 
x 6 
1 
x 2 
1 
x 10 
x 2 

* 1 
x 2 

* 1 
x 2 



x 2 

* 1 
x 2 

* 1 
x 2 
x 10 
1 
x 2 
1 
x 2 



threads l-50s white cotton. 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s tan cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton as 1. 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton, 
thread 3-5 0s white cotton, 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s tan cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s tan cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton, 
thread 3-5 0s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton, 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton as 1. 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s fr. blue cotton, 
threads l-50s white cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s tan cotton, 
thread 3-50s white cotton, 
threads l-50s white cotton. 



Total 136 threads. 




UTlSiffiS 



mm •■!»■' ma 

•T mm f ■' ■■■ 

r ■■ aa ■ ■' ■■ 



Sa ■' ■ ■ ■ ■■■ 
■ v ww ■; » r ic 
_ • ■ .■"■■ ■' ■ •■■ 



a a ■ ,a ■' ■ Bar 
■ i'kmi'v ia 
■ af aTfe" a aaa 
■ a a Mf i « il 

aa ■.«■'■« ■' ■■■ 

«■•"■ ■ ■ •!!' ■■ 

- a; ar^r ■ a i — 
i ■ # a. ai ■' «^ 



Ii a a vi aaa 
■-•■■■a ■■■■ 
, ' ? ?7' J * ■■ 
if -•■!■» Mmtmi'm 

■■■ II | I a an 
■■• 1 I i a ■ aa 
aa <■•«• a ■■■■•.-■ 

EJ a. '. >.' ■ -■■ 
:.^i.s s ./.-3: 

iBa ai ■ a; a ■ ia 
• « * if i a via 
r- , w , C-B%I8 




1 



: tffl 



I 









ii* 



±t±tt 



ffl 



* 



•-: 



tat 



fc 



DB 
DB 
DB 
■O 
BO 
OB 
DB 



Ha 

P" 

OB 
BD 
BD 
DB 
DB 
BD 

ss 

DB 
DB 
BD 
BD 
DB 
DB 
DB 



BD 
DB 
OB 



□ I 



a ■* 
£? Dm to 

"St, 



J, Dl 

P4 



BD 

D« 

." 

BD 

: ■ 
OB 
BD 
BD 

:: 

S3 

'■ 
BS 



■ 



h 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



473 



Put threads marked x on bottom 
beam. 

Put threads marked on middle 
beam. 

Put threads marked * on top beam. 

In a good many instances the yarn 
is placed upon the loom beams as pre- 
viously described, but there are a 
number of plants at least where the 
cords and ground yarn are placed upon 
the same beam. Naturally, leno yarn 
would have to be placed upon a top 
beam because of the excessive take- 
up. The only methqd which permits 
two-ply yarn and single yarn to be 
placed upon the same beam is through 
the correct amount of tension upon 
the warp beams when the loom beam 
is being run. A good many consider 
that this method is never possible, but 
there are many instances where it is 
successful and economical. There are 
many cases where the selvages are 
made of rather heavy two-ply yarn) 
and this yarn is run upon the loom 
beam together with the warp yarn 
which composes the body of the fabric. 

l-50s cotton must be well sized. 

Number of threads of each color in 
pattern: l-50s white, 84; l-50s tan, 28; 
l-50s fr. blue, 8; 3-50s white, 16; to- 
tal, 136. 

Number of threads of each color in 
warp: l-50s white, 1,628'; l-50s tan, 
532; l-50s fr. blue, 152; 3-50s white, 
304; total, 2,616. 

Filling: 72 picks per inch; all white 
l-60s cotton. 

The full design is illustrated at Fig. 
2, and is complete on 136 warp threads 
and 12 picks. The drawing-in draft is 
illustrated at Fig. 3, and is com- 
plete on 7 harnesses and 2 doup 
shafts. 

Fig. 4 is the reeding plan. 

Fig. 5 is the harness chain draft for 
12 bars. 

THE LOOM REQUIRED. 

Any ordinary dobby loom with a 
leno attachment can be said to be 
satisfactory for making most of these 
leno ginghams or shirting materials. 
A close shed loom is seldom used for 
such purposes, because it operates at 
so slow a speed, and for this reason 
most of the ordinary leno attach- 
ments are applied to open shed looms. 



A good many looms upon which fancy 
leno patterns are produced contain 
from 20 to 25 harnesses. Due to the 
change in demand, it is possible to 
sell a much wider cloth of the char- 
acter described than it was some years 
ago. 

One of the features which is seldom 
mentioned, but which is often of im- 
portance to manufacturers of colored 
yarn goods of the character described 

Chain Draft 

BDamomuma a 

amomamaa a 

mmamamamo m 

aamamamaa ds 

OQDBOBCBO DS 

-fflriBDHCBUffl C-! 

gaaamauoun nj 

tSDOBOBOBaQ D" 

B&amomamn a 
□obobqbdB g 

aoBOBGBca a 
Plff. 5. 

is in regard to the appearance of cer- 
tain colors after the cloth is finished 
In such fabrics, if a dark color be used 
next to a light one, the various fi- 
bres of cotton will project from the 
dark threads and cause a very un- 
satisfactory appearance upon the light 
yarn. In some cases cloth has been re- 
jected for this purpose alone, and mills 
have overcome this result by using 
combed yarn in place of carded yarn 
where black or very dark colors are 
being used. This same situation Is 
noted where some of the fast colors 
to stand bleaching are observed. 
Where the colored yarn contains 
many fibres which project, they show 
up very plainly against the white 
threads close to them, and unless a 
high quality of yarn with few project- 
ing fibres be used, some patterns will 
be objectionable. 

FINISH REQUIRED. 

After these goods are received from 
the looms they must be examined 
carefully, and all spots of dirt and 
grease removed, the selvages trimmed 
and all runners (that is, filling pulling 
in at the sides) and also bunches and 
large knots must be taken out. 

They are then run through a 
starching machine and given a me- 
dium starching. 

They are then run through a calen- 
der, which flattens out the, threads and 
removes all wrinkles and gives the 



474 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



cloth a much smoother surface, be- 
sides giving it an appearance of finer 
texture. 

After measuring and rolling, the 
pieces are put in a hydraulic press 
and submitted to a pressure of many 
tons' weight. They are then labeled 
and papered and are ready for ship- 
ment. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machinery required to make 
the yarns for madras ginghams will be 
found in mills of the second division 
although mills of the third division 
(as given in a previous lesson) also 
make this grade of yarn. 

THE COUNT OF YARN 
which we will consider in making this 
class of goods is l-50s and 3-50s for 
the warp yarns and l-60s for the fill- 
ing. This stock is made out of a good 
grade of cotton, the staple of which is 
about 11 to iy 2 inches in length. The 
cotton is brought to the picker room 
and sampled and graded by the over- 
seer in charge of the card room, al- 
though in large mills when a cotton 
sampler is employed he also is pres- 
ent at mixing time. 

The bales of cotton are sampled and 
all those of the same length are plac- 
ed together. After the lot is sam- 
pled, a few (four or five) bales are 
placed around the bale breaker and 
fed to this machine, a small lot being 
taken from each bale alternately un- 
til all the cotton is gone. The bagging 
which comes around the cotton is then 
placed in a pile, where later it will be 
picked clean of all cotton and then it 
is placed with other bagging, which is 
sold. j. he ties which bind the bales 
are also sold. 

THE BALE BREAKER. 

The draft of a bale breaker is quite 
large, but as the cotton is in large 
lumps it only acts on it by pulling it 
apart so that good deal of the draft 
is lost. The production of a bale 
breaker is from 80,000 to 90,000 
pounds per week. 

The cotton is conveyed by endless 
lattices from the bale breaker to the 
bins; sometimes a blower and trunks 
are used In connection with the lat- 



tices. Where one is used it has been 
found that the cotton is in better 
shape to work and does not have to be 
dried out so long in the bins. Large 
mixings should always be used for the 
reasons given in previous articles. 

At the bins the sliver waste of the 
same length and grade of cotton is 
mixed into the raw stock. As this is 
generally done by the man that col- 
lects the waste, it is always a good 
plan to watch him to see that he puts 
the waste that he has collected in its 
proper bin. The raw stock for this 
class of goods is put through a porcu- 
pine opener and 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. 
Keep the hopper of the opener more 
than half full of raw stock, because: 
by so doing a more even feed will be 
obtained and this will help to make 
an even yarn. The speed of the beat- 
er of the opener should be about 1,- 
050 revolutions per minute. The cot- 
ton is passed up to the feed rolls of 
the breaker picker. There are two of 
these rolls, top and bottom, and they 
present a sheet of cotton to the beat- 
er, which is generally of the two- 
bladed variety. This beater has a 
speed of about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, and the fan a speed of 1,400 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front end of 
the breaker picker is about 40 pounds, 
or what is called a 16-ounce lap, 
meaning that each yard of lap weighs 
16 ounces. 

The laps are taken from the breaker 
picker and put up at the finisher 
picker, the doubling (or number of 
laps put up) being 4 into 1. It is at 
this point that the cut roving, of the 
same length and grade, is mixed in, it 
having first been put through a special 
process which takes out the twist, 
and also a picker, which forms into a 
lap. The proportion of cut waste used 
is one lap of cut waste to three laps 
of raw stock. The beater of the fin- 
isher picker makes 1,450 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of the 
lap at the front of the finisher picker 
is about 35, or a 12^ -ounce lap for 
both warp and filling yarn. 
The lap is put up at the card. 
The draft of this machine for this 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



4?5 



class of goods should not be less than 
110; the wire fillet used on the cylin- 
der should be No. 34 wire or No. 110 
English count, and on the doffer and 
top flats No. 35 or No. 20 English 
count wire should be used. The cards 
should be ground once every three 
weeks and stripped (doffer and cylin- 
der) three times a day. The cards 
should be thoroughly cleaned twice a 
day and wiped down twice more. 

The speed oi the cylinder should be 
165 revolutions per minute, the licker- 
in speed 290 revolutions per minute. 
The top flats should make one revo- 
lution every 34 minutes. The weight of 
the sliver at the front end should be 
65 grains, and the production 600 
pounds per week of 60 hours. Use a 
larger diameter doffer, either 26 or 27 
inches. On some grades of madras 
ginghams the filling yarn is combed, 
but as we have put the cotton in this 
article through what is called fine 
carding we will consider that both the 
warp and filling yarns are to be only 
carded. The sliver is taken from the 
card and put through three 

PROCESSES OF DRAWING FRAMES. 

The doublings of these machines are 
six into one. The weight of the sliver 
at the finisher drawing frame is 70 
grains. Look out to see that the top 
rolls are all properly varnished and 
in good repair, or are thoroughly 
cleaned if metallic rolls are used; see 
that all stop motions are in proper 
working order and that the help keep 
the machine running. The drawing 
sliver is put through the slubber and 
made into .50 hank roving. From here 
it is put through three processes of fly 
frames and made into 10 hank for 50s 
count yarn and 12 hank for 60s yarn. 
In 10-hank roving the hanks made at 
the different processes are as follows: 
2 at first intermediate, 4 hank at sec- 
ond intermediate and 10 hank at the 
jack frame. For 12 hank it is 2 hank 
at first intermediate, 4 hank at second 
intermediate and 12 hank at the jack 
frame. The roving for warp yarn 
is carried to 

THE RING SPINNING ROOM 
and spun into 50s yarn on a frame 
having the following particulars: 2^ 



inches gauge of frame; diameter of 
ring, iy 2 inches; length of traverse, 6 
inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revo- 
lutions per minute. This yarn is then 
spooled and the yarn for the plain 
weave is then warped and put through 
a slasher. The following mixing may 
be used for heavy counts: Water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 65 pounds; tal- 
low, 6 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 
pounds; white soap, 2 pounds; boil 
11 hours. The 50s count yarn for 
cords and leno whip threads after be- 
ing spooled is twisted into 3-ply 50s 
yarn on the twister machine. 

The 12-hank roving for filling yarn 
may either be ring or mule spun. If 
ring spun, use a frame having the 
following particulars: for 60s gauge 
of frame, 22 inches; diameter of ring, 
1*4 inches; length of traverse, 5 
inches; speed of spindle, 8,000 revolu- 
tions per minute. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
YELLOW. 
1 per cent tetrazo chlorine yellow 
GG., 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent 
sal soda; after- treat with y 2 per cent 
bluestone, y 2 per cent chrome. 
LIGHT ORANGE. 
1 per cent tetrazo chlorine orange 
R., 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent 
sal soda; after-treat with y 2 per cent 
bluestone, y 2 per cent chrome. 
OLD ROSE. 
y 2 per cent tetrazo chlorine rose, 25 
per cent Glauber's, 2 'per cent sal 
soda; after-treat with y 2 per cent blue- 
stone, y 2 per cent chrome. 
LIGHT OLIVE. 
4 per cent pyrogene olive N., 4 per 
cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; after-treat 
with 1 per cent bluestone, 1 per cent 
chrome. 

LIGHT TAN. 
4 per cent pyrogene cutch 2G, 4 
per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash; after - 
treat with 1 per cent bluestone, 1 per 
cent chrome. 

SKY BLUE. 
y 2 per cent diamine sky blue FF.. 
25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 



476 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



soda; after-treat with y 2 per cent sul- 
phate of copper. 

LILAC. 
y 2 per cent diamine brilliant blue G., 
25 per cant Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 
soda; after-treat: y 2 per cent sulphate 
of copper. 

PEARL. 

4 ounces diamine dark blue B., 4 
ounces diamine brilliant blue G., 25 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; 
after-treat: y 2 per cent sulphate of 
copper. 

BUFF. 
2 ounces diamine catechine 3 G., 2 
ounces diamine catechine B., 25 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; 
after-treat: y 2 per cent sulphate of 
copper, y 2 per cent chrome. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
10 per cent katigen yellow brown 
GG., 2 per cent katigen brown V., 10 
per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent 
soda ash, 30 per cent salt; after-treat 
4 per cent bluestone, 4 per cent 
chrome, 3 per cent acetic acid. 

DARK BROWN. 

5 per cent diamine catechine B., 4 
per cent diamine catchine G., 30 per 
cent salt, 3 per cent sal soda; after- 
treat: 3 per cent bluestone, 3 per cent 
chrome. 

RED BROWN. 

5 per cent diamine brown M., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda: 
after-treat: 2 per cent bluestone, 2 
per cent chrome. 

PINK. 
Y 2 per cent benzo fast pink, 2 BL., 20 
per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

RED. 

6 per cent primuline, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; diazo- 
tize and develop with beta naphthol. 

WINE. 
As red. Diazotize and develop with 
Bordeaux developer. 

SLATE. 
2 per cent diamine jet black SS., 30 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 
soda, after-treat with 3 per cent 
chrome. 



BLACK. 
6 per cent diamine black B., 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; 
diazotize and develop with phenylene 
diamine. 

SULPHUR BLACK. 
10 per cent immedial black V., 10 
per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash; after- 
treat: 3 per cent chrome, 3 per cent 
bluestone, 3 per cent acetic acid. 
LIGHT GREEN. 
On tannine and tartar emetic mor- 
dant. Dye: 1 per cent new methylene 
blue GG., 1 per cent thioflavine T. 
BLUE. 
On tannine and tartar emetic mor- 
dant. Dye: 2 per cent new methylene 
blue GG. 

INDIGO BLUE. 

10 per cent immedial indone 3 B., 
10 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash; after- 
treat: 3 per cent sulphate of copper. 



ETAMINE 



An etamine is a thin, slightly 
glossy fabric used principally for 
women's dress goods. Being a very 
popular material for summer wear, it 
is usually made in what is commonly 
known as a piece-dyed fabric, that is, 
woven with undyed yarn. A good rea- 
son for making it a piece-dyed fabric 
is that it is much cheaper than if the 
yarn is dyed previous to the weaving. 
Etamines are dyed in almost any 
color. Blue, black, red and various 
shades of drabs seem to be very pop- 
ular. The interlacing of the warp and 
weft is on the one and one order, or 
plain weave. See design, Fig. 1. The 
openness or transparency of the fabric 
is due partly to the smooth, hard- 
twisted yarn and partly to the weave. 

Etamines were originally made with 
worsted yarns, which, of course, are 
much more expensive; however, if a 
good quality o f " cotton is used there is 
little difference in appearance between 
worsted and cotton etamines. The dif- 
ference would be chiefly in the wear- 
ing quality, worsted, of course, being 
more durable. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



477 



One of the differences between a 
worsted and a cotton etamine is not- 
ed when the fabrics are worn. A 
worsted fabric does not crease very 
readily, and whenever it is noted the 
crease will soon disappear, whereas a 
cotton fabric, i f creased, will be likely 
to hold the creases for quite a long 
time, thus making the garment some- 
what objectionable. 

The principal feature of an etamine 
is to have it a crisp, glossy and 
open fabric. 

ANALYSIS OP FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed, 27% inches; 
width of fabric finished, 26 inches. 
Reed, 500 — 2 ends per dent. 

Total ends in warp 740, including 
selvage. Take-up of warp during 
weaving, 12 per cent. Weight of fa- 
bric from loom, 3 ounces per yard; 
weight of fabric, finished, 3 ounces per 
yard. 

No shrinkage during the finishing 
process. 

WARPING PLAN. 

l-10s carded peeler cotton, hard 
twist, 20 turns per inch, a left-hand 
twist. 

FILLING PLAN. 

28 picks per inch finished; 28 picks 
per inch in loom; l-10s carded peeler 
cotton, hard twist, 15 turns per inch, 
a left-hand twist. 

Notice that warp and weft are both 
the same twist, that is, both are a left 
twist. This is an important factor 
which cannot be ignored in making an 
open or transparent fabric. 

The warp is drawn in straight, that 
is, 1, 2, 3, 4 (see Fig. 2), until all the 
harnesses are used; four harnesses 
would be quite enough for a fabric of 
this character; there being but 26 ends 1 
per inch, would cause no overcrowding 
of heddles. Fig. 3 is the reeding plan. 
Fig. 4 shows the chain draft for a dob- 
by loom. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

This character of fabric could be 
woven on any cam or dobby loom, a 
cam loom being preferable, princi- 
pally on account of the comparatively 
low rate of expense the latter could be 
operated at. 



Etamines, as before mentioned, are 
usually woven with undyed yarns, or 
in the gray. The cloth, after reaching 
the dyehouse, is first subjected to a 
scouring process, then dyed, after 
which it is given a medium sizing, 
then it is calendered, which in a great 
measure accentuates the gloss upon 
the fabric and also imparts to it the 
crisp feeling which characterizes an 
etamine. 

It is then measured, rolled and 
papered, after which it is ready for 
the merchant. Cotton etamine sells 
from 12 cents to 20 cents per yard. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The cloth of which the weaving par- 
ticulars have been given is some- 
times made of all-cotton yarn or a 
combination of cotton and wool or cot- 
ton and linen, or a combination of 
wool, silk, linen and cotton fibres. For 
the carding and spinning particulars 
of this lesson we will consider that 
the fabric is made up of cotton yarns 
in both the warp and filling. 

The count of the yarn we will con- 
sider to be 10s. 

THE YARNS 
for this class of cloth may be made 
in either the first or second division 

VotilWga Raja Mm 



oaalOBoa 

■OBQfOBO 

amemamem 

■ OBCfCJMD 

omamamam 
Fig. 1. 



Drawlng-iB l>r*ft 

aaaaogoB 
QamaSoma 
omaonmaa 
■aoaHoao 
Fig. 2. 



ChilD Draft 

oaoa 

■OfO 

dbOb 
mama 
Oman 
mama 
omam 
mama 
Fig. 4. 



of mills, as given in a previous article. 
Generally, however, the mill of the sec- 
ond division is used. The cotton used 
would be American of about 1 1-16 
inches length of staple. A number 
of bales (enough for a mixing) should 
be brought from the cotton shed and 
placed in the picker room. The over- 
seer should sample each of the bales 
and those not up to staple should be 
placed to one side. Several of the 



478 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ether bales should be placed around 
the bale breaker and a little fed to 
the breaker from each bale alternately, 
'ihis will help to produce a 

MORE EVEN MIXING, 

which will help to give a more evenly 
finished yarn. The bales that have 
been laid aside should either be used 
in a cheaper mixture or should be 
shown to the cotton broker and either 
returned or have an allowance made 
for them. The bale breaker should be 
kept on this cotton until it is all put 
through. The cotton is conveyed from 
the bale breaker to the mixing bin by 
endless lattices, which is the old 
method, or by having a blower and 
trunking and an endless lattice as is 
the newer and more modern method. 
When a blower is used in conjunc- 
tion with the bale breaker the cotton 
is in a more dried out condition when 
it reaches the bin, and consequently 
it does not have to stand as long to 
dry out before using. A blower will 
pay for its first cost many times ovei. 
At the mixing bin the good waste from 
all machines up to the slubber is mix • 
ed in as it is collected. The cotton 
is next fed to the opener and 

WHEN A BLOWER IS USED, 

passed through two processes of pick- 
ing when the cotton is mixed by 
hand. Three proceses of picking are 
generally used. A three-process pick 
ing and an opener are given, but when 
two processes are used all that is 
necessary to do is to drop the second 
or intermediate process and use the 
particulars of the breaker and finish- 
er picker. A porcupine beater is gen- 
erally used in connection with the 
opener, and this has a speed of about 
975 revolutions per minute. 

The cotton jpasses from the opener 
to the breaker picker and after pass- 
ing the feed rolls it comes in contact 
with the beater, which is generally of 
a rigid two-bladed type, the speed of 
of which is about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute. The total 

WEIGHT OF THE LAPS 
at the front of the breaker picker is 
about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. 
These laps are doubled four into one 



at the intermediate picker, the beater 
of this picker making 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute and the total weight 
of the lap being 37 pounds or about a 
12-ounce lap. The doublings at the 
finisher picker are four into one, the 
speed of the beater 1,450 revolutions 
per minute, which gives the cotton 
passing through it 42 beats per minute. 
It is at this point that the cut roving 
of American stock of the same length 
is mixed in, in the proportion of one 
lap of roving waste to three laps of 
good cotton. The total weight of the 
cotton lap at the front for this class 
of goods is 35 pounds or a 12^ -ounce 
lap. The next machine through which 
the cotton passes is 

THE CARD. 

This machine for this class of goods 
has a draft of about 90. The cards 
should be stripped three times a day 
and should be ground at least once a 
month. The flats make one complete 
revolution every 35 minutes. The pro- 
duction should be about 750 pounds 
for a week of 60 hours. The weight of 
the sliver at the front should be about 
65 grains. Use as large a doffer as pos- 
sible, either of a 26 or 27 inch dia- 
meter. The carded sliver is then put 
through three processes of drawing, 
the weight of the sliver at each pro- 
cess being as follows: 77 grains at 
breaker drawing, 76 grains at inter- 
mediate and 72 grains at finisher 
drawing, the doubling at each process 
being six into one. On this class of 
goods metallic top rolls may be used 
to good advantage. The sliver is next 
put through the slubber and made into 
.50 hank roving. The settings of the 
rolls at the slubber for this length of 
staple should be as follows: Front 
roll to middle, 1*4 inches; middle roll 
to back, 1% inches. The cotton is 
then passed through 

ONE PROCESS OF FLY FRAMES 
and made into two hank roving. The 
roving for warp yarn is taken to the 
spinning room and made into 10s yarn. 
The following particulars are used on 
the warp frame: Gauge of spindle, 3 
inches; diameter of ring, 2 inches; 
length of traverse, 7 inches; speed of 
spindles, 8,600 revolutions per minute. 



A. COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



479 



The roving for the filling yarn may be 
either mule spun or, as is generally 
the case, ring spun. 

When ring spun, use the following 
particulars for filling frame spinning: 
10s yarn, gauge of spindle, 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of 
traverse, 7 inches (because the filling 
yarn for this fabric has sufficient twist 
put in to stand this length of traverse), 
speed of spindles, 6,400 revolutions per 
minute. The warp yarn is then 
spooled, warped and run through a 
slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

The fabric is dyed on the jig ma- 
chine. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent immedial black N N., 15 
per cent sulphide sodnim, 3 per cent 
soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 
rinse well, and give a soap bath. 
BLUE. 

5 per cent immedial indone B., 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda 
ash, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse 
and top with 8 ounces methylene blue 
B., 1 pint acetic acid. 

BROWN. 

6 per cent immedial brown B., 4 per 
cent immedial yellow D., 10 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse and 
give a soap bath. 

GREEN. 
4 per cent immedial yellow D., 3 per 
cent immedial indone B., 7 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse and 
give a soap bath. 

♦♦» 



BATISTE 



Batiste, as the name implies, is of 
French origin, commercially under- 
stood to mean a light translucent 
cloth, made from a fine quality of 
combed cotton yarn, ranging in width 
from 32 inches to 45 inches. 

There is likewise a gradual variation 
in qualities, ranging from a compara- 
tively coarse to a very fine fabric. 

The variations of the different qual- 



ities will be more apparent when we 
consider their commercial value. It 
may be of interest to our readerc to 
note the retail prices. 

Cotton batiste retails at from 12^ 
cents in 32-inch widths to 50 cents in 
45-inch width per yard. 

The variety of qualities will suggest 
some idea of the utility of the fabric. 
Its uses are even more varied than are 
the qualities. 

The finer grades of batiste are used 
for dress goods, all kinds of lingerie 
for summer wear, pillow shams, etc., 
while the cheaper grades are exten- 
sively used for linings in washable 
and unwashable shirtwaists. 

In this article we are confining our- 
selves to bleached cotton batiste, re- 
serving the linen and colored for seme 
future discussion. 

Batiste is woven in the gray, that is, 
with yarn direct from the spinning 
frame, with the exception that the 
warp yarn is well sized, in order to 
better stand the strain to which the 
yarn is subjected during the weaving 
process. 

We will consider, first, a very fine 
bleached cotton batiste, of a quality 
made 45 inches in width, and then a 
very cheap grade of bleached cotton 
batiste, made 32 inches in width. 

The analysis will readily show the 
vast difference in these two qualities. 

FINE BLEACHED COTTON BATISTE 

Width of warp in reed, 47.8 inches; 
finish at 45 inches; ends per inch in 
the cloth from loom, 94; ends per inch 
finished, 100; ends in warp, 4,500. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 10 
per cent; weight of fabric per yard 
from loom, 1.15 ounces; finished 
weight, 1.4 ounces. 

The difference in weight between 
fabric from loom and finished fabric 
is about 20 per cent, the finished goods 
having taken on 20 per cent of sizing 
material. 

For adding weight to cloth, China 
clay is used. The proportions to use 
depend on the character of finish de- 
sired. China clay produces a gritty 
feel, which, however, may be overcome 
by the use of chloride of magnesium 
which is a very powerful softner ap 
well as a weighting material. 



480 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Warping plan: body of warp, l-120s 
combed Sea Island cotton, selvage 2- 
100s cotton. 

Filling plan: 98 picks of l-200s 
combed Sea Island cotton. 
CHEAP-GRADE COTTON BATISTE. 

Width of warp in reed, 34 inches. 
Finish at 32 inches; ends per inch in 
cloth in the loom, 54; ends per inch 
finished, 58; ends in warp, 1,860; 54x1 
reed. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 
per cent; weight of fabric per yard 
from loom, .84 ounce; finished weight 
per yard, 1 ounce; 19 per cent increase 
in weight. 

Warping plan: all l-60s combed Sea 
Island cotton. 

Filling: 50 picks per inch l-100s 
combed Sea Island cotton. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

There is a wide divergence of opin- 
ion in regard to the use of automatic 
loom for fine yarn fabrics, though it 
is undoubtedly true that most of the 
important manufacturers do not con- 
sider them of any especial value. This 
is shown in the fact that practically 
none of such looms are used where 
the warp is finer than 70-1. In order 
to make an automatic loom success- 
ful it must be kept in operation and 
the fineness of the yarn is against 
such a result. Then, the weight of 
the heddles upon the yarn has a ten- 
dency to cause breakages much more 
than when such a loom is used for 
coarser fabrics. It is true that for 
fine plain cloths it is possible to oper- 
ate more looms per weaver than for 
the coarser materials, partly because 
the filling lasts a much longer time. 
The decided loss in production on an 
automatic loom when fine yarns are 
used brings down the number of looms 
which can be operated and there is a 
much smaller difference between the 
number of looms per weaver on fine 
than for coarse fabrics. Another thing 
which is noted is that a light non- 
automatic loom can be operated at 
a higher speed than an automatic 
loom and will produce as high or a 
higher percentage of production so 
that the yards of cloth produced per 
weaver is not much greater with auto- 
matic looms than with the non-auto- 



matic. It must also be remembered 
that the price of the automatic loom 
is much higher than the nonautomatic 
and taken all together it is not prob- 
able that the automatic loom will ever 
be used extensively for 100-1 yarn or 
finer in its present condition. In fact, 
a good many consider its value is 
questionable for any fabric contain- 
ing single yarn finer than 60-1. The 
fabric is a plain weave, no dobby be- 
ing required. The fineness of the yarn, 
however, requires the use of string 
heddles. Wire heddles would cause 
too many warp breakages. The warp 
should be drawn in on four harnesses, 
skip draw as follows: 1, 3, 2, 4 instead 
of straight, as 1, 2, 3, 4. Skip draws 
give less strain to the warp. 
FINISH. 
Batistes are given a Swiss finish; 
after the cloth comes from the loom it 
is bleached. After the bleaching proc- 
ess it is sized, then sprinkled or damp- 
ened, and then calendered, after which 
it is folded; then it is ready for the 
market. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The division of mills which make 
"batiste" is the third of those mills 
which are equipped with machinery 
for making fine count yarns. Batiste 
is made up of extra fine counts of 
yarn, although these counts vary a 
great deal according to the grade of 
fabric wanted. In order to do this 
cloth justice it will be better to first 
describe the processes of a coarse 
yarn batiste and then a batiste made 
up of fine yarns. We will consider 
the coarse fabric to be made up of 
l-60s warp yarn and l-100s filling 
yarn. The finer grade we will con- 
sider made up of l-120s warp yarn and 
l-200s filling yarn. 

THE RAW STOCK 
used for both grades should be: 
American cotton of 11 inch staple for 
the fabric which contains 60-1 warp 
and 100-1 filling and Sea Island cotton 
of about 1% inch staple for the fabric 
which contains 120-1 warp and 200-1 
filling. 

The selection of the cotton is one of 
the first and by many considered the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



481 



nost important points to look out for. 
The lot should be sampled bale by 
oale and all those bales having a 
staple not up to standard should be 
thrown out of the mixing. Those bales 
that are selected as O. K. should be 
placed around the mixing bin and 
thrown into it alternately from each 
bale until all the bales for the mixing 
ire in. At this point the 

GOOD SLIVER AND PICKER WASTE 

are mixed in. Care should be taken to 
see that the sliver waste is pulled 
apart into short lengths and that no 
other waste is thrown into the bins by 
mistake, because a small lot of short 
staple waste can cause a great deal 
of trouble later on. Some overseers 
use only an opener and one process 
of picking, others use two processes 
of picking with the opener. It is the 
general custom to use only an opener 
and one process of picking for these 
fine counts. The general instructions 
that have been given in regard to 
openers should be followed. The speed 
of the beater (rigid type) should be 
reduced so that the cotton should only 
receive 29 beats per minute. The 
weight of the lap at the front end of 
the picker (when one picker is used) 
should not exceed 30 pounds and from 
this range to 25 pounds. 

A GOOD WEIGHT 
per yard for the grade of fabric under 
description is 9 ounces. The machines 
should be carefully looked into to see 
that they are all kept clean and prop- 
erly set. The laps are taken to the 
cards. At this point, as at a great 
many others, overseers differ as to the 
best means of procedure. Some use 
a large draft at the card and only one 
process of combing, and others use 
lower drafts and two processes of 
combing. In this lesson we will 
assume a large card draft and one 
process of combing for all counts of 
yarn in both grades of batiste. The 
speed of the licker should re reduced 
from about 350 revolutions per minute 
to 275 or 280 revolutions per minute. 
This is done by lagging the licker- 
in pulley. The wire fillet used on the 
cylinder should be No. 34 wire (Ameri- 
can count, or 110s English count), and 



on the doffer and top flats No. 36 wire, 
or 130s English count. 

THE FLATS 

should be speeded up to take out as 
much waste as possible. The cards 
should be stripped three times a day 
and ground so as to keep the wire 
sharp. The settings used should be 
very close and care should be taken to 
see that the cotton is not broken in 
staple at the card. A great many 
times, if the cotton is sampled at the 
front of the card, it will be found to be 
shorter than when entering. This 
may be and is generally caused by an 
improper setting of the feed plate to 
the licker-in. While this applies di- 
rectly to long staple cotton, still all 
cottons should be looked into carefully 
to avoid shortening the length of the 
staple. It is very important to keep 
the cards clean so that as little dust 
and dirt will go into the sliver as 
possible, because, if this dirt gets 
past the combers, it will show up in 
the cloth, as the thread or yarn is so 
small. The 

PRODUCTION FOR A CARD 
making this class of goods should not 
exceed 275 pounds per week, the 
weight of the sliver being about 30 to 
35 grains per yard. The draft for this 
class of goods should not be less than 
150. The card sliver is taken to the 
comber room and doubled 14 into 1 at 
the sliver lap, and the laps from this 
machine are taken to the ribbon lap 
machine and doubled 5 into 1. The 
weight of a yard of lap at the front of 
the ribbon' lap machine should be 
about 160 grains. These laps are put 
up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1. 
The speed of the comber for this stock 
should not exceed 80 nips per min- 
ute. For this weight of web a double 
row of teeth in the top comb would 
give 

THE BEST RESULTS. 

Care should be taken to see that all 
needles in the top are straight and 
that the comber is absolutely free 
from dirt at all times. The table of- 
the comber should be gone over twice 
a day with whitening so that the sliv- 
er being drawn ove~ it will not stick. 
The percentage of waste taken ou$ 



482 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



should be about 25. These processes 
will answer for all the counts except 
for the 200s, which should be double 
combed, i. e., after being put through 
the combers once should be run 
through the sliver lap machine and 
then through the combers again. After 
passing through the combers the sliv- 
er passes through two processes of 
drawing. At these machines the sliv- 
er is doubled six into one, the speed 
of the front rolls at each frame being 
320 revolutions per minute. Be sure 
the settings are proper for the staple 
so as not to "break" the staple, or too 
far apart so that uneven drawing will 
result. 

THE TOP ROLLS 
should be of a little larger diameter 
than for shorter length of staple; the 
grade of skin used for the top rolls 
should be finer than that used for the 
shorter and lower grades of cotton. 
Not only is this true in regard to the 
drawing frames, but also on all ma- 
chines on which leather top rolls are 
used. Always keep these rolls in the 
best of shape and clean machines 
more often than with the lower grades 
of raw stock. The weight of sliver at 
the front is 60 grains per yard. The 
drawing sliver is put through the slub- 
ber, which makes it into .80 hank. 
This machine also uses a larger diam- 
eter top roll than is used on the lower 
grades. The slubber roving for 60s 
yarn is put through three processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving at the 1st 
intermediate being 2.25; at the second, 
5 hank, and at the fine frames 12 hank. 
From here it is taken to the ring spin- 
ning room and made into 60s warp 
yarn on a frame having the following 
particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1 5-16 
inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. 

TO MAKE 100s YARN 
the slubber roving is the same, also 
the hank roving at the first and se- 
cond intermediates. The hank roving 
at the fine frame is 20. This yarn for 
filling is taken to the mule spinning 
room; for warp yarn used in the finer 
grade of batiste is sometimes spun in 
the mule room and sometimes in the 
ring spinning room. When spun on 
the ring frame, use the following 



particulars for a warp frame: Gauge 
of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
l x /4 inches; length of traverse, 5 in- 
ches. For making 200s yarn the final 
yarn is spun single at the mule; if 
spun double, the frames and hank rov- 
ing at each would be as follows: Slub- 
ber, .80; first intermediate, 2.25; se- 
cond intermediate, 5; roving, 20, and 
jack 30 hank. This would be taken 
to the mule room and spun into 200s 
yarn. The warp yarn for both grades 
of fabric would be spooled and warp- 
ed and run through a slasher. 

A GOOD MIXING 
for 60s yarn is as follows: Water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; 
Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; soap, 1% 
pounds. A good sizing mixture for 
the 100s would be as follows: Water, 
100 gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; 
tallow, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 
pounds; soap, 2 pounds. Boil two 
hours and let stand 10 hours before 
using; keep agitator running and keep 
size almost at boiling point. For sel- 
vage, the 100s yarn would have to be 
doubled into 2-ply 100s in addition to 
the other processes. 



Bleaching, Dyeing and Finishing. 

These goods are bleached in the or- 
dinary way, great care being taken to 
keep the goods from damage. 

The pieces are boiled in caustic soda 
at 4 degrees Tw. for ten hours, rinsed 
well in water, and boiled again with 
4 degrees Tw. caustic soda, rinsed, 
and scoured with % degree Tw. of oil 
of vitriol, rinsed and passed through a 
solution of chloride of lime at y 2 de- 
gree Tw. scoured with y 2 degree Tw. 
oil of vitriol, and well rinsed, until 
all acid is washed out. 

The goods are then dried, and 
starched through a mangle with 8-12 
ounces best white German dextrine to 
one gallon of« water, starch to be well 
boiled one hour before using. 

The pieces are dried on a tenter 
frame at full width, care being taken 
to keep tue warp and filling straight. 
COLORS. 
If colors are required they are light 
blues, pinks and other light tints dyed 
in the mangle or on the jig. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



483 



LIGHT PINK. 

For 10 50-yard pieces, 12 gallons 
water; % ounce to 2 ounces Erika 
pink; 20 pounds Glauber's; 3 pounds 
sal soda. 

LIGHT BLUE. 

Dye as pink with y 2 to 1 ounce tetra- 
zo brilliant blue 6B. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

2 ounces diamine black BH., dye as 
pink. 

RED. 

1-2 pound benzo fast red 4B., dye 
as pink. 

YELLOW. 

Dye as pink. 8 ounces chrysophe- 
nine. 

ORANGE. 

Dye as pink. 1 pound Mikado orange 
B. 

SCARLET. 

Dye as pink. 1 pound diamine scar- 
let B. 

LIGHT WINE. 

Dye as pink. 1 pound diamine Bor- 
deaux B. 

LIGHT AMBER BROWN. 

4 ounces diamine catechine G.; 4 
ounces diamine fast yellow B., dye as 
pink. 

TOBACCO BROWN. 

I pound diamine brown B. ; 2 ounces 
diamine fast yellow B., dye as pink. 



LIGHT TAN. 

pink. 4 ounces diamine 
2 ounces diamine fast yel- 



Dye as 
bronze G.; 
low B. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

Dye as pink. 10 ounces diamine 
green G. ; 5 ounces diamine fast yellow 
B. Top with fresh bath; 6 ounces 
brilliant green G. 

BLACK. 

Dye on jig. 15 per cent immedial 
black NN. ; 15 per cent sulphide soda; 
S per cent soda ash; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 



ITALIAN CLOTH 

Italian cloth is a light, glossy fab- 
ric made from cotton and worsted, cot- 
ton and wool, cotton and mohair and 
all cotton. 

We will here consider the all-cotton 
fabric. Italian cloth is very common- 
ly understood to mean a satin fabric, 
by some known as Farmer's satin. 
ITS CHIEF USE. 

It is used chiefly for linings for the 
heavier styles of ladies' dresses, also 
for underskirts, or for the garment it- 
self, instead of merely as a lining; 
when used for such, it is usually in 

DDlJBDaanBDnDDBG 
DHnDDnBDDDnBDDn 
QDODBODQDBDDDDB 
DDBCDOQBnDDOBQa 
■□□aOBDQDDBDDCO 
DDOBDDDDBODLaBQ 
UBDDDDBDDDDBCDa 
DaaOBQQQOBOODQB 
DDBDanaBDDDDBDD 
BnDDDBDDDDBDDaa 
GDaBDDGDBDDDDBn 
DBDDDnBDDDDBaDD 
DaDDBDDQDBCDDDB 
GOBQQDQBDDQOBDQ 
BDCDDBDDDDBDDaQ 

Fig. 1. 



nnnnnnnDDBDDnnDnnnnB 
naaaooaDBQQDDoannoBa 

DQOOQQaBQaOUDGDQOBaa 
GDQODDBODDDaODQOBDDn 
□□□OOBQODQDQDDQIiaODa 

□onoBQaoDQaoDaBnDnaa 

DaDBOQaODODDDBaaODDa 

CQBQDDonaDDOBaoDDaan 
DBaDnnanDDDBDDDDDDna 

BDDDDDnDnDBGQDDDDDna 

Fig. 2. 

PnDBBBOOOBBBOOn 

BBBDDDBBBaDDBBB 

Fig. 3. 



solid black. It is also used for shirt- 
waistings, fancy pillow backs and so 
forth, for these purposes usually in 
fancy colors. 

The cloth is woven "in tbe gray" 
— undyed yarns. In the finer grades 
the warp is sized so as to facilitate 
the weaving process. The fabric under 
consideration is a five-harness satin 
weave. The satin weave, technically 
called "satin," is one of the three 
foundation weaves. The object of a 
satin weave is to get a smooth-face 
fabric. 

In plain twill weaves every pick in- 
terlaces with the warp in the same 
manner, but each successive pick com- 
mences as if it were one end farther to 
the right or left, according to the di- 



484 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



rection of the twill. This will bind the 
cloth in a regular order. 
In satin weaves 

THE INTERLACING 

is arranged differently; the intersec- 
tions of warp and weft are distributed 
as evenly as possible over the surface 
of the fabric. 

The smallest and most common 
form of satin is the five-harness 
satin. The order of intersections is 1, 
3, 5, 2, 4. (See Fig. 1.) 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 

"Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; 
width of fabric, finished, 36 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 96; ends per 
inch, finished, 102; ends in warp, 3,- 
700; 32 dent reed per inch — -3 ends 
per dent. Take-up of warp during 
weaving is 5 per cent; weight of fab- 
ric per yard, from loom, is four 
ounces. 

Owing to the pressure the fabric is 
subjected to in the finishing, it 
stretches slightly in length; conse- 
quently the cloth should be lighter per 
yard, finished, than the cloth from 
the loom. The difference, however, is 
made up by the sizing materials, al- 
though it is given but a very light siz- 
ing. 

The cloth per yard finished is prac- 
tically of the same weight as the cloth 
per yard from loom. 

"Warp: All l-40s cotton, left twist. 

Filling: All l-45s cotton, left twist. 

130 picks per inch. 

Fig. 1 shows three repeats of the 
design; the weave as mentioned above 
is a five-harness satin, weft face, with 
the direction of the twill running to 
the right. 

The fabric in question has a very 
smooth face, which is due in a great 
measure to the direction of the twill 
being opposite to the direction of twist 
of yarn. 

Fig. 2 shows drawing-in draft. The 
warp is drawn on ten harnesses, 
straight draw — five harnesses would 
be enough; ten harnesses are used so 
as not to overcrowd the heddles. 

Fig. 3 shows reeding plan. 

The warp is reeded 3 ends in one 
dent. 



This character of fabric could be 
woven on any loom where ten har- 
nesses could be operated without dif- 
ficulty. The loom should have a fair- 
ly high running speed. 
FINISH. 

This fabric, as before mentioned, is 
woven with undyed yarns. After it 
comes from the loom it is boiled off, 
bleached, then dyed, after which it is 
subjected to a light sizing. For a 
light sizing it is not necessary to use 
anything but wheat flour, farina and a 
small quantity of softening material, 
usually tallow or wax. 

After the cloth is sized it is run 
through the calender with the rolls 
well heated, the glossy face of the fab- 
ric being obtained by the heated rolls. 
The cloth, after the calendering, is 
folded, after which it is ready for the 
market. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Italian cloth is made in mills of the 
second division, as given in a previ- 
ous lesson. The class of cloth may be 
made up of several grades and lengths 
of raw stock, but for this article we 
will consider that the cotton is of a 
fair grade, the staple being about 1% 
inches in length. The cotton is all 
sampled before being put through this 
bale breaker, several bales being plac- 
ed around this machine, the cotton be- 
ing fed alternately from each bale un- 
til all the cotton is gone. The bagging 
which covers these bales is thrown 
into a pile and is again picked over in 
order to clean all the fibre from the 
bagging. This is generally done by the 
yard hands on rainy days. 

THE BEST METHOD 
of conveying the cotton to the mixing 
bins is by a blower and endless lat- 
tices. When a blower is used, the cot- 
ton arrives at the mixing bins in a 
more open state and works up much 
better. At the mixing bin the good 
waste cotton from all the machines up 
to the slubber is mixed in. The cot- 
ton is fed to the hopper of the open- 
er which should always be kept half 
full and from here is passed on to the 
feed rolls of the breaker picker. For 
this class of goods some overseers use 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



485 



jeo and some use three processes of 
picking. It is the general plan of up- 
:o-date mills to use two processes 
•vith an opener. After passing the 
:'eed rolls of the breaker picker the 
cotton comes under the 

ACTION OF THE BEATER. 
If this is of a rigid, two-bladed type 
i, which is the one most generally used) 
the speed should be about 1,500 revo- 
lutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front of the breaker 
picker is 40 pounds or about 16 ounces 
to the yard. These laps are taken 
and put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. The roving 
waste is mixed in at this point in the 
proportion of three laps of good cot- 
ton to one lap of bobbin or roving 
waste. The roving waste is put 
through a special picker that takes 
out the twist and delivers it in a light, 
fluffy state. This is taken and spread 
evenly on the apron of a picker and 
made into a lap, the weight of which 
corresponds to the weight of the laps 
of the same kind being put up at the 
back of the finisher picker. The speed 
of the beater (two-bladed rigid type) 
for this class of work is about 1,400 
revolutions per minute. This gives the 
cotton passing through 42 beats per 
inch. The total 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the front of the finisher should be 
about 35 pounds, a variation of y 2 
pound being allowed from standard. 
If the weight is more than y 2 pound, 
the laps should be run over again, i. e., 
placed at the back of the finisher and 
run through with three other laps. If 
there is a great variation in the laps, 
the machine should be looked into to 
see what is the cause. For slight va- 
riations in weight there are adjust- 
ments to quickly remedy the defects. 
The lap at the front for this class of 
goods should weigh 12y 2 ounces to the 
yard. The laps are put up at the card 
and the draft of this machine should 
not be less than 100. Medium card 
fillet wire should be used on both the 
cylinder, doffer and flats, the wire on 
the doffer and flats being one point 

finer than that used on the cylinder. 
The speed of the cylinder should be 
about 165 revolutions per minute; 



speed of licker-in, about 350 revolu- 
tions per minute ; the speed of the top 
flats, 1 complete revolution every 50 
minutes. 

THE CARDS 

should be stripped three times a day 
and ground surely once a month. At 
the time of grinding, the card wires 
should be all straightened out and all 
reset properly. Light grinding should 
always be used. The weight of the 
sliver at the front should be about 65 
grains per yard. The production for 
a week of 60 hours (allowing 10 per 
cent of time for cleaning, stoppage, 
etc.) is about 700 pounds. The cotton 
sliver is then passed on to the draw- 
ing frames and through three proc- 
esses of these machines. The drawing 
frames may be either equipped with 
metallic or leather covered top rolls, 
the speed of the front roll at each 
process being about 400 revolutions 
per minute. See that the drawing 
frame bottom rolls are properly set, a 
good setting for this stock being as fol- 
lows: Prom center of front roll to 
center of second roll, 1% inches; sec- 
ond to third roll, 1| inches; third to 
back roll, 1% inches. 

The weight of sliver at the front of 
the finisher drawing frame should be 
72 grains, the doubling at each proc- 
ess being six into one. 

AT THE SLUBBER 
the sliver is drawn into .50 hank rov- 
ing. Prom here it passes through 
three processes of fly frames, the 
hank roving being as follows: First 
intermediate, 1.50 hank; second 
intermediate, 4.00, and fine frame 
10.00 hank. At the fly frame look out 
for the top leather covered rolls. 
These should always be in the best of 
shape. Put just enough twist into the 
roving so that it will not break back 
at the succeeding process. Remember, 
every extra turn of twist given the 
roving lessens the production. On the 
other hand, do not get the roving too 
slack twisted, for then loss of produc- 
tion, as well as poor work, will result 
in consequence of the roving breaking 
back. The warp roving is then taken 
to the spinning room and 
spun into 40s yarn on a frame 
having the following particulars : 



4S6 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 
6% inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 
revolutions per minute. The roving 
for the filling yarn may be taken to 
either the ring spinning or the mule 
room, where it is spun into 45s yarn. 
If taken to the ring spinning room, 
use a frame of following particulars: 
Gauge of frame, 21 inches; diameter 
of ring, 11 inches; length of traverse, 
5y 2 inches; speed of spindles, 8,800 
revolutions per minute. The warp 
yarn is then spooled and warped and 
run through a slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The pieces are boiled out for dark 
shades, and bleached white for light 
shades and tints. 

The dyeing is done on a jig machine. 

PINK. 
8 ounces diamine rose GD., 20 
pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 
All the dyeings are for 10-12 gallons 
water and 10 pieces, 50 yards. 

SALMON. 
' 4 ounces diamine orange B., 1 ounce 
diamine scarlet B., 15 pounds Glau- 
Der's, 1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT BUFF. 
4 ounces diamine catechine G., 1 
ounce diamine fast yellow B., 15 
pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

4 ounces diamine black BH., 15 
pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT GRAY. 
One-half pound diamine gray G., 15 
pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
One-half pound diamine catechine 
G., V 2 pound diamine brown B., 2 
ounces diamine fast yellow A., 20 
pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

RED. 
3 pounds diamine fast red F., 30 
pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

SKY BLUE. 
2 pounds diamine sky blue FF., 30 
pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 



SLATE, 

1 pound immedial black NB., 4 
ounces immedial olive B., 1 pound sul- 
phide of sodium, 20 pounds Glauber's, 
y 2 pound soda ash. 

PEARL. 

2 ounces immedial black NRT., % 
pound sulphide sodium, 10. pounds 
Glaubei's, 6 ounces soda ash. 

BLACK. 
15 pounds immedial black NN., 15 
pounds sulphide sodium, 30 pounds 
Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 
NAVY BLUE. 

2 pounds immedial indone 3B., 2 
pounds immedial indone R., 5 pounds 
sulphide sodium, 30 pounds Glauber's, 
3 pounds sal soda. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

3 pounds brilliant benzo green B., 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

1 pound heliotrope BB., 25 pounds 
Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

WINE. 
3 pounds tetrazo corinth G., 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 
OLD GOLD. 

2 pounds diamine fast yeho A, 1% 
pounds diamine brown 3 G., 30 pounds 
Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

FINISHING. 

Cotton Italians are finished with a 
calender finish, passed through a cot- 
ton rolled calender to get a good fin- 
ish, and then softened down, with a 
light beetling on a beetling machine, 
or finished altogether on a beetling 
machine. 

They are also given a hot press fin- 
ish on the hydraulic press with hot 
press plates and papers, to imitate 
the worsted Italians. 



Beetling Process for Finishing. 

The beetling process for finishing 
cotton and linen piece goods is one of 
the oldest finishes in the bleaching 
and dyeing trades. 

It was first invented in the linen 
bleacheries of the north of Ireland in 
the Belfast district. The first beetling 
machines were very crude affairs com- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



487 



pared with the machines now in 
service. 

The beam on which the cloth was 
wound was a large tree trunk turned 
down and smoothed, which was set 
in motion with a handle. The part of 
the machine which lifted the fallers 
was also turned by hand. The prin- 
ciple of a finish by a beetling machine 
is simply an improvement on the old 
mangle, to smooth the cloth, and fill 
in the spaces between the threads, 
making the cloth more opaque, and 
showing the ordinary linen finish. A 
good beetle finish is also a permanent 
finish and will stand sponging and 
ironing. 

THE NEW BEETLES 

are made entirely of iron, except the 
fallers, which are wooden. The cloth 
is wound on the iron cylinder or beam, 
which revolves about 40 times a min- 
ute; the fallers are lifted by cams and 
fall of their own weight, about 16 
inches on the cloth, from 40 to 50 
times a minute. The cloth receives 
by this process a tremendous hammer- 
ing, and where 10 or more machines 
are together the noise is simply deaf- 
ening. 

Goods made of half linen and half 
cotton can be finished to look like all 
linen goods, and in some goods made 
of all cotton the finish makes the 
pieces exactly like a piece of linen, 
and even 

AN EXPERT MAY BE DECEIVED 
thereby. Some goods are heavily 
starched and dryed, then sprinkled, 
put on the beetles, and hammered for 
four or five days, being sprinkled and 
turned occasionally. The beetles are 
run night and day with two crews. In 
Ireland, where labor is cheap and 
water power is used, the finish is not 
very expensive, although the process 
is very long, as the goods are often on 
the beetles for six days. Where steam 
power only is used, the finish is al- 
most prohibitory, and as a very large 
and expensive plant is required to turn 
out a large amount of goods, not many 
plants of any great capacity have been 
erected in this country. 

The largest beetling works are those 
of the Macnab Company, Hurlet, Pais- 
ley, Scotland. There are about 100 



sections of beetles there, and some 
very fine work is turned out. 

A GOOD FINISH 
is obtained on silesias by first passing 
the goods through a calender and then 
giving a few hours on the beetle. 
Mather and Piatt, of Manchester, have 
a patent beetle with spring hammers 
instead of fallers. This machine is 
said to be good for some finishes, but 
many prefer the old wooden faller ma- 
chine. Any width of cloth can be fin- 
ished on the beetle. Holland shades 
of over 100 inches in width are han- 
dled with ease, and the width of the 
cloth is always increased during the 
process of beetle finish. 



CHEESECLOTH 

This is a thin cotton fabric of light 
weight and low counts of yarn, which 
for" cheapness ranks among the first 
in cotton fabrics. 

The fact that it is a cheap fabric has 
much to do with its popularity, in so 
far that it is used for innumerable pur- 
poses; chief among which we may 
mention that it is used for wrapping 
cheeses and butter after they are 
pressed, for these purposes only the 
bleached fabric being used. It is also 
much in demand for bunting for festal 
occasions, for light curtains, masquer- 
ade dresses, etc. When used for bunt- 
ings, draperies and the like, it is usu- 
ally in colors. Red, blue, cream and 
yellow bunting seem to have the great- 
est demand. 

In the sample which will now be 
considered, the cheesecloth is of a fair 
quality; the weave is a one and one, 
or plain weave; there is very little va- 
riety in the designing. 

THE CHIEF OBJECT 
of the designer in constructing a fab- 
ric of this character is to find the least 
number of ends and picks per inch re- 
quired, so that the fabric will not slip 
too easily; that is, if the cloth is 
taken between the thumb and first 
finger of each hand, and the thumbs 
drawn away from each other over the 
surface of the fabric and first fingers, 
the ends, if pulling in the direction of 
the filling, will not leave their proper 



488 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



places too easily, or, if pulling in the 
direction of the warp, the picks or fill- 
ing will not give too easily. 

This tendency to slip is entirely due 
to the lack of material necessary to 
produce a perfect or firm cloth. 

A PERFECT CLOTH 
may be defined as a cloth in which 
the warp or weft yarns are equal in 
diameter and the spaces between the 
threads are equal to tic diameter of 
the yarn. 

For instance, let us construct a per- 
fect cloth with l-36s cotton yarn for 
both warp and filling. By squaring the 
counts we find the diameter of yarn to 
be l-165th part of an inch; that is, 165 
threads of l-36s will lie side by side 
in one inch, and by subtracting one- 
half of the 165 to allow for the space 
required for the interlacing with the 
weft we have 82 ends and 82 picks 
necessary for one inch of cloth. 

In the sample in question there is 
only about half the number necessary 
to make perfect or firm cloth. 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 36 inches. 

Ends per inch in reed, 42; ends per 
inch in finished cloth, 45. 

Picks per inch in loom, 42; picks per 



flDBOBaaa 

OBDBQBaB 
BOBQBQBD 
DBnBDBBa 
BOBOBaBO 
LBOBOBOB 
BOBOBDBD 
OBOBOBOB 


DoaaaoDBaaaaoDDB 
aoaoaaBaoaaaaa«a 
aaaaoaaaaQaooBoa 
DQaQBaaaaaoaBooa 
oaoBooaQoaoBaaoa 
DaBoaaaoooBooaaa 
DBODooaaoBQnaaoD 
BOoaaaaDBDDaaaDD 


ODBBOOBB 
BBaOBBDO 


Fig 2. 



Figl. 

inch, finished, 42; ends in warp, 1,620. 

Reed, 750 x 2. 

Take-up of warp during weaving 6 
per cent; weight of cloth, per yard, 
from loom, 1.7 ounces; finished weight 
per yard, practically the same. 

Warp, all l-36s cotton carded peel- 
er; filling, all l-36s cotton carded 
peeler. 

Fig. 1, design. 

Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
The retail price of cheesecloth, 5 to 
8 cents per yard, requires that it be 



woven on a high running speed loom. 
The automatic loom would be about 
the best, running at about 160 picks 
per minute. If the warps are properly 
sized a weaver can take care of 16 to 
32 looms. 

FINISH. 

Cheesecloth is given very little fin- 
ish. After it comes from the loom, it 
passes to the dyehouse, where it is 
bleached or dyed as the case may be; 
the cloth is dyed in a gig dyeing ma- 
chine. After the dyeing it is passed 
through a rotary press with cylinder 
slightly heated, after which it is fold- 
ed and is then ready for the market. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which cheesecloth are 
made up would be made in mills hav- 
ing an equipment of machinery for 
making coarse or medium grade 
yarns. There are several kinds and 
grades of cotton used for the manu- 
facture of this cloth and the count of 
yarn varies, but not to such an ex- 
tent as has been the case with the 
cloths that have been described in late 
articles. For this article it will be 
considered that the cotton is made 
up of a medium grade of cotton of 
1 1-16 inches length of staple and that 
the count of the yarn for both warp 
and filling is 36s. The cotton is fed 
to the bale breaker (if the mill con- 
tains one) or the bales are placed 
around the mixing bin and mixed by 
hand. 

THE HAND MIXING 
does not give as uniform a mixing as 
the bale breaker, and when the mixing 
is done by hand it ought to stand long- 
er before being used, so that it will 
dry out thoroughly. For this class of 
goods three processes of picking and 
an opener are used. The good waste 
cotton is mixed direct into the bin 
with the raw stock as it is collected. 
The cotton is then fed to the opener, 
which is generally supplied with a por- 
cupine opener, and this should revolve 
at about 1,050 revolutions per minute. 
From the opener the cotton is convey- 
ed by an endless apron to feed rolls 
of the breaker picker, which condense 
the fluffy mass into a sheet and offer 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



489 



it to the beater. The beater of this 
machine and also of the intermediate 
and finisher pickers is generally of 
the rigid, two-bladed type. The break- 
er picker makes 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, the total weight of the lap at 
the front being 40 pounds, or 16 ounces 
per yard. These laps are put up at 
the intermediate picker and 

DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE. 

The beater of this machine should 
make about 1,450 revolutions per min- 
ute, the total weight of a lap at the 
front being 37 pounds, or 12 ounces to 
the yard. The laps are put up at the 
finisher picker and doubled four into 
one, the beater making 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute, and the total weight 
of the lap at the front end being 35 
pounds or 12y 2 ounces to yard of lap. 
Keep the draught of the pickers on 
the top cage, as this will help to pre- 
vent splitting of laps; also see that 
the fly is not allowed to accumulate 
to any great extent under the ma- 
chines. There should always be a sup- 
ply of laps ahead, in case of a break- 
down. Always use old laps first and 
not the newly made ones. The laps are 
carried to the card. The draught of 
this machine for this class of work 
should not exceed 100. The top flats 
should make one complete revolution 
every 50 minutes. Cards should be set 
for coarse work, using No. 33 wire on 
cylinder fillet, and No. 34 wire on 
doffer and top flats. Use a 26 or 27 
inch diameter doffer. 

THE SLIVER 

should weigh 65 grains per yard, and 
the production for a week of 60 hours 
should be 750 pounds. The sliver is 
put through three processes of draw- 
ing. It would be of great advantage to 
use metallic rolls. The doublings at 
each process are six into one. The 
drawing sliver is put through 
the slubber and made into .50 
hank roving. This roving passes 
through two processes of fly 
frames. At the first intermediate th& 
hank roving is 1,56, at the second in- 
termediate this is made into 3.75 
hank, and at the fly frame 7.50. At 
the fly frame watch the leather top 
rolls. The bottom steel rolls should 



be taken out and scoured at least once 
a year. The hank roving is then taken 
to the ring spinning room, or the rov- 
ing for the filling may be taken to the 
mule room and made into 36s yarn. If 
taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM, 
use a frame having the following par- 
ticulars (for 36s filling) : Gauge of 
lrame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 6V 2 
inches; speed of spindles, 10,200 revo- 
lutions per minute. For warp yarns 
(36s), use 21 inches gauge of frame; 
11 inches diameter of ring, and 5 1 / £ 
inches length of traverse, with spin- 
dles running at 8,900 revolutions per 
minute. The warp yarn is then spool- 
ed, warped and run through a slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Cheesecloth is dyed on the gig ma- 
chine, or in the starch mangle during 
the starching process. 

PINK. 

For 10 gallons liquor, 3 pounds 8 
ounces constarch or dextrine, 4-6 
ounces Erika pink, 2 pounds Glauber's, 
1 pound sal soda. 

YELLOW. 
As pink; 1 pound chrysophenine. 

ROYAL BLUE. 
As pink; 2 pounds alum, no sal soda. 
1 pound Victoria blue B. 

SCARLET. 
As pink; 2 pounds diamine scarlet 
B. 

RED. 
As pink; 3 pounds benzo purpurine 
4B. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
As pink; 8 ounces diamine black 
BH., 1 ounce diamine fast yellow B. 

BROWN. 
As pink; 2 pounds benzo fast orange 
S., 2 pounds chrysophenine, y 2 pound 
benzo fast black. 

HELIOTROPE. 
As pink; 1 pound benzo fast violet 
R., 4 ounces benzo fast blue BN. 



490 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



VELVETEEN 



Velveteens, also termed fustians and 
velverets, are heavy cotton fabrics in 
which the distinguishing effect is 
formed by the points of the fibres in 
the filling yarns, termed the pile, be- 
ing presented to the vision, and not 
the sides of the yarns as in the ma- 
jority of fabrics. 

They are principally used for dress 
and hat trimmings, suitings, and up- 
holstery, having exceptional wearing 
qualities and showing a full, deep col- 
or. 

Corduroys are sometimes termed 
velveteens, the same principle of con- 
struction being adopted in both fab- 






ier picked goods. In each figure A 
represents the warp beam and B the 
whip rolls. The dotted line indicates 
the direction of the yarn. 

Standard widths for velveteens are 
19 inches, 22% inches, 24% inches and 
27 % inches or 28 inches. For the lat- 
ter width the warp is spread about 
33% inches in the loom. The weights 
for 28-inch goods vary from one to 
three and one-half yards per pound. 

The goods are usually woven two or 
more widths in the loom, with split 
selvages. 

In order that the fabric may remain 
firm after the pile picks are cut, 
ground or binder picks are inserted 
regularly, working either plain or twill 
as may be desired. The filling for 



8 



fa?'® 




FIC. I . 

rics, but a corduroy is distinguished 
by having a corded stripe effect run- 
ning lengthways of the piece, the di- 
viding line between each stripe show- 
ing both warp and filling. 

In the simplest type of velveteens 
the pile filling, after being cut, hides 
the warp entirely from the face. To 
accomplish this the goods are made 
with a comparatively small number of 
ends and large number of picks per 
inch, ranging from 50 to 76 ends and 
150 to 600 picks. One warp only is 
used. 

A fairly heavy loom is necessary. 

Figures 1 and 2 illustrate two meth- 
ods of arranging the whip rolls and 
yarn when weaving some of the heav- 




these picks is similar to that used for 
the pile, only one shuttle being used. 

Figure 3 is a design for a velveteen, 
arranged one ground and three pile 
picks, the ground weave being plain. 
The drawing-in draft is straight on 6 
harnesses, 1 to 6. The selvages are 
woven with a selvage motion. 

The ends are reeded 2 in each dent 

The chain draft is similar to the 
weave, Figure 3. 

Six ends and eight picks repeat. 

Figure 4 shows a sectional view of 
the cloth before being cut. Figure 5 
shows the same with the pile cut. Let- 
tered circles in these figures corre- 
spond to ends, and numbered lines to 
picks, in Figure 3. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



491 



An analysis of two fabrics woven 
with design, Figure 3, shows the fol- 
lowing: 

Sample No. 1: 76 ends and 192 picks 
per inch; 28s warp and 40s filling; 
width 23 inches; weight 4.35 yards per 
pound. 

This is a velveteen of poor quality. 

Sample No. 2 is of a good quality. 
It contains 76 ends and 375 picks per 
inch, 2-ply 60s warp and 55s filling, 
and the weight is 3.35 yards per 
pound. 

Some velveteens are sold by weight, 
similar to men's wear fabrics, so many 
ounces per yard. 

Another standard fabric woven with 
design Figure 3 is as follows: 74 ends, 
260 picks, 2-ply 70s warp, 60s filling. 



of picks, therefore, the pile cannot be 
made very full. 

PURPOSES. 

For dress and trimming purposes 
velveteens are usually of a solid col- 
or, being piece-dyed. 

For upholstery purposes the goods 
are dyed, printed, embossed or stamp- 
ed. Panel and stripe patterns are also 
made by cutting a raised figure on an 
uncut ground, or vice versa, by paint- 
ing or by the pyrogravure process, 
burning. 

When 

STAMPING 
velveteens the goods are passed be- 
tween two cylinders. The upper cylin- 
der is of iron and is heated from the 




f*Q.+. 




•ifr.S 



Figure 6 shows a design with a 3- 
end twill ground, arranged one ground 
and three pile picks. The drawing-in 
draft is straight, reed draft, 2 ends 
per dent, chain draft same as weave, 
repeated to 18 picks. Selvages extra. 

Figure 7 shows a design for what is 
termed a fast back velveteen, arrang- 
ed one ground and four pile picks. 
When each pile pick is tied under two 
ends, as in this example, the effect Is 
not so good as when tied only once, 
but the wearing qualities are im- 
proved. 

In the preceding examples it will 
be seen that the pile filling is bound 
only on every other end. 

Figure 8 illustrates a design in 
which the pile is bound in on every 
end. This type makes a firm texture 
but does not admit of a large number 



inside. The pattern is engraved or 
sunk into this. The lower cylinder is 
of hard wood. The pile is compressed 
by the projecting part of the upper 
cylinder, causing the pattern to stand 
out in relief from a dull ground, or 
vice versa. 

PAINTING ON VELVETEENS 
is essentially a hand process. The col- 
ors have to be free from oil that they 
may not spread beyond the limits in- 
tended. 

In the pyrogravure process of mak- 
ing patterns on velveteens, the sketch 
is first made and placed in a panto- 
graph machine. With a platinum 
stylus heated to redness the operator 
then burns out the pile along the lines 
traced, leaving a very clear pattern. 

From the time a velveteen leaves 
the loom to the time it is ready for 



492 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



cutting, it has to be passed througn 
several processes. It is first put 
through a back starching and drying 
machine. 

After drying, tbe better grades are 
raised on the under side to make a 
softer feeling cloth. The lower qual- 
ities are not raised on account of the 
tendency for the process to weaken 
the cloth. 



8 DOGGED 

T □□raQCd 

6 fflDDGGD 

5 DBGBDB 

4 DDDO&O 

8 DDBDDG 

2 EDDDDD 

1 ■GBGBG 
AB CDEF 

Fig. 3. 



GCGT'G 
DfflGGG 

mamma 

waaaoa 

□□□DEQ 

mammam 
aamaaa 

maaana 
ammamm 

fig. 6 . 



ffloacr'OEn 
DaDDfflDffia 

ODfflDBQGG 
BDfflDDaDn 

DIGICiGi 

fflDDDnaffla 

DDDDBDffiD 

ffDSSDOOOQ 

BDBGBGBG 

Fig 7. 



Dannaana 

DDDDDBDD 

DDDDDDOBa 

□BGBGBCB 
fflDDODDDG 

ddddeddd 
aamaaaaa 

DDaaaaffin 

■ GIIDBGBG 
Fig. 8. 



The goods are then, while under ten- 
sion, saturated with a weak milk of 
lime, the solution being brushed into 
them on the face side. 

The next process is drying. This is 
done by a device in which rods are 
automatically inserted below the fab- 
ric, so that the latter hangs down in 
loops. 

After drying, the cloth is folded and 
passed to the brushing machine. This 
machine removes the lime and loosens 
the filling floats so that the knife can 
readily enter beneath them. 

The cutting process proper now 
takes place, being done either by ma- 
chinery or by hand. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The fabric for which the carding and 
spinning particulars are given below 
is made up in several grades. For this 
article only two grades will be con- 
sidered, a coarse one having a warp of 
l-28s and l-40s filling; and a fine 
grade, the warp yarn of which is 2-70s 
and with a filling of 2-60s yarn. This 
fabric, all grades, would be made eith- 
er in the second or third division of 
mills as given in a previous lesson. 
We will consider 

THE COARSER GRADE 
first. This would be made from a me- 
dium grade 1%-inch staple cotton and 
run through the bale breaker with 
blower and endless lattice connec- 
tions, so that it will reach the mixing 
bins in a dry, open state. When feed- 



ing the bale breaker do not feed one 
entire lap before starting on another, 
but open several laps around the bale 
breaker and feed from each bale alter- 
nately. The mixing should be 

AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE, 
so that there will be less variation 
in the yarn than when small mixings 
are used. The good waste from the 
machines up to the slubber is mixed 
into the bin as it is collected. The cot- 
ton is next put through an opener and 
either 2 or 3 processes of pickers. It 
is the general custom nowadays to use 
2 processes, but the particulars for 
three processes will be given. If one 
process is left out, use particulars giv- 
en for breaker and finisher pickers. 
Feed the hopper of the opener so that 
it is always more than half full, be- 
cause the more cotton there is in the 
hopper the more cotton will be taken 
up by the spiked apron, and thus a 
more even sheet will be presented to 
the beater, which is generally of a 
porcupine type and is speeded up to 
1,000 revolutions per minute. The 
speed of the beater at the breaker 
picker is 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of laps at the front 
of this machine is 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap. These laps are 

DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE 
at the intermediate. At this machine 
the speed of the beater is 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front is 37 pounds or 
a 10-ounce lap. These laps are 
doubled four into one at the finisher 
picker, the total weight of a lap at the 
front being 39 pounds or M^-ounce 
lap. The speed of this beater is 1,450 
revolutions per minute, which gives 
the cotton passing through it 42 blows 
or beats per inch. Each lap, as it is 
taken from the front of the finisher 
picker, should be weighed, and all 
those laps ranging over a half a pound 
from the standard, either way (light 
or heavy), should be run over again. 
The 

CUT-ROVING WASTE 
is mixed in at the back of the finisher 
picker in proportion of one lap of rov- 
ing waste to three laps of raw stock. 
The cut-roving waste has to go 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



493 



through a special process to take out 
twist, and from here it is put through 
a picker which forms it into a lap, 
then it is mixed with the raw stock as 
above. From the picker the laps are 
taken to the card. The draft of this 
machine should be about 110. The set- 
tings should be medium and the wire 
fillet used would be No. 35 for doffer 
and flats and No. 34 for cylinder. The 
speed of the top flats should be one 
complete revolution every 40 minutes. 
The sliver at the front should weigh 
65 grains per yard, and the production 
for a week of 60 hours should be 
about 800 pounds. The sliver is then 
put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, 

the doublings at each process being 
six into one. 

The speed of the front roll is 400 
revolutions per minute at each proc- 
ess. The sliver should weigh about 70 
grains per yard. This is then' put 
through the slubber and made into .50 
hank roving. The roving to be used 
for 28s yarn is put through two proc- 
esses of fly frames, the hank roving at 
the first intermediate being 2 and at 
the second 6. This is then taken to the 
ring spinning room and made into 28s 
yarn on a warp frame having the fol- 
lowing particulars: Gauge of frame, 
2% inches; diameter of ring, 1| 
inches; length of traverse, Gy 2 inches; 
speed of spindles, 9,700 revolutions per 
minute. From here it is passed 
through the spooler, which takes the 
yarn from the cop and winds it onto 
a spool. From here it is wound onto 
a beam and several of these beams 
are put up at the. ends and run through 
the slasher and wound onto a beam 
at the front, which has the required 
number of ends necessary for the warp 
of the fabric. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING 
for filling yarn is put through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing 1.50 at the first intermediate, 4 
hank at the second and 8 hank at the 
last frame. This roving for filling may 
be taken to either the mule room or 
the ring spinning room to be made into 
40s. We will consider it to be taken 
to the ring spinning room and spun 



on a frame having the following par- 
ticulars: Gauge of frame, 2| inches; 
diameter of ring, 11 inches; length of 
traverse, 5y 2 inches. 

FOR THE FINER GRADES 
of velveteen the foregoing general 
particulars may be used, but substitut- 
ing the following for 60s and 70s yarn: 
Use 1| inches staple cotton; at the 
pickers the total weight of lap at the 
front is 40 pounds or 16-ounce lap at 
the beater and 35 pounds or 12-ounce 
lap at finisher, no intermediate pick- 
er being used. At the card the top flats 
should make one complete revolution 
every 40 minutes, the weight of sliver 
at front being 65 grains and produc- 
tion about 500 pounds per week. 

THE DRAFT 
should not be less than 120. Some- 
times the filling yarn is combed, but 
we will consider this yarn to be card- 
ed and so it will be put through three 
processes of drawing. At the slubber 
the sliver is drawn into .55 hank rov- 
ing and for both warp and filling is 
put through three processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving being as fol- 
lows: To make 70s yarn: first inter- 
mediate, 1.50 hank; second, 4 hank; 
and jack frames, 14 hank. To make 60s 
yarn: first intermediate, 1.50; second, 
4 hank; and fine, 12 hank. The 14- 
hank roving is taken and spun into 
70s yarn on a 

WARP SPINNING FRAME 
fitted up as follows: Gauge of frame, 
2| inches; diameter of ring, 1| inches; 
speed of spindles, 10,000 revolutions 
per minute; length of traverse, 5y 2 
inches. From here it is spooled, then 
twisted into 2-ply and spooled again, 
warped and put through the slasher. 
The 12 roving to be made into 60s 
yarn may be taken either to the mule 
room or the ring spinning room. If 
taken to the ring frame, use a frame 
having the following: Gauge of frame, 
21 inches; diameter of ring, 1*4 
inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. 
The yarn is then twisted into 2-60s. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Velveteen is dyed on the jigger ma- 
chine in 15 gallons of liquor at 175 de- 



494 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSS Altl' 



grees F. ; for 30 pounds of goods, one- 
half pound of soda ash, one-quarter 
pound sulphide sodium, 1 pound salt; 
boil up the liquor, add the soda, so- 
dium sulphide and salt before adding 
the dyestuff, strain through a piece of 
calico into the jigger. 

The goods are run for 30 to 60 min- 
utes; rinse well in water after dyeing. 

ECRU. 
4 ounces immedial bronze A., after- 
treat with y z per cent bichrome, y 2 
per cent sulphate copper. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
4 ounces immedial black V., after- 
treat y 2 per cent bichrome, y 2 per 
cent sulphate copper. 

PEARL. 
iy 2 ounces immedial black V., iy 2 
ounces immedial brown B., after-treat 
as slate. 

FAWN DRAB. 
12 ounces immedial bronze A., 2 
ounces immedial brown B. 
LIGHT BROWN. 

1 pound immedial brown B., 4 ounces 
immedial cutch O., 1 pound sulphide 
sodium. 

MEDIUM BROWN. 
y 2 pound immedial yellow D., 1 pound 
immedial brown B., y 2 pound imme- 
dial cutch O., \y 2 pounds sulphide 
sodium. 

DARK BROWN. 
20 pounds salt, y 2 pound soda ash, 5 
pounds sulphide, y 2 pound immedial 
black NRT. sodium, 8 pounds imme- 
dial brown B. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Dye as ecru with 2 pounds immedial 
blue O, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, y 2 
pound soda ash, 10 pounds salt; rinse 
and top with methylene blue N., and 
shade with methyl violet B. 
BLACK. 

2 pounds immedial black V., 2 
pounds sodium sulphide, y 2 pound soda 
ash, 10 pounds salt; rinse and top 
with a one-dip black, or paint with 
Prussian blue. 

INDIGO BLUE. 
For 30 pounds goods in Jigger, 1 
to 5 pounds pyrogene indigo, 1 to 5 



pounds sodium sulphide, 1 to 2 pounds 
soda ash, 5 to 15 pounds salt, % to 1 
pint mineral oil; rinse and soap, top 
with methylene blue. 

A large number of one-dip colors 
are also dyed on velveteens, from light 
to dark shades. Although the colors 
are not so fast as sulphur colors, they 
are sufficiently fast for some trades. 

After dyeing, the goods are topped 
with basic colors, as methyl violet 
with methylene blue, Bismarck 
brown and other bright colors. 

For 30 pounds of goods, 3 pounds di- 
amine green, 20 pounds salt, 1 pound 
sal soda; top with Malachite green. 

SULPHUR GREEN. 

2 pounds immedial indone BB., 1 
pound immedial yellow D., 2 pounds 
sulphide soda, 1 pound soda ash, 10 
pounds salt. Rinse and top with bril- 
liant green or Malachite green. 



VELVETEEN CUTTING 

Velveteen cutting is one of the proc- 
esses incident to making cloth that is 
still, to a considerable extent, done by 
hand for practical purposes, although 
machines are now in constant use for 
accomplishing the same results. 

The object of cutting is to present 
to the vision the points, instead of the 
sides, of the fibres in the filling. 

Fig. 1 illustrates the type of knife 
used when the cutting is done by 
hand. The guide A is inserted in a 
race of the cloth, and raises the fill- 
ing to the cutting edge B. as it is forc- 
ed along. 

The cutting is generally done with 
the blade of the knife held in a verti- 
cal position, so as to cut the filling in 
the center of the float. 

A STRIPE EFFECT 

is obtained, either intentionally or un- 
intentionally, by varying the position 
of the knife to the left, center or 
right, if two or three positions are 
held while cutting the same piece. In- 
stead of cutting with the knife inclin- 
ed first one way and then the other, to 
right and left, when making stripes 
with an ordinary weave, knives with 
two blades are sometimes used to 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



495 




make both cuts at once, one blade be- 
ing a little shorter than the other. 
There are 

TWO METHODS 

of cutting velveteens by hand: (a) the 
long-frame method; (b) the short- 
frame method. In both these the cloth 
is first stretched over rollers to a suit- 
able tension. 

In long-frame cutting, two pieces 
are generally arranged parallel to each 
other about 10 or 12 yards long, with 
room enough for the cutter to pass 
between. The cutter cuts one race in 
one piece when walking in one direc- 
tion and a race in the other piece 
when returning. Assuming that a 24- 
inch velvet with 900 races is required 
to be cut, the cutter will have to walk 
900 x 10, which equals 9,000 yards, 
or over 5 miles to cut 10 yards. This 
illustrates how laborious the hand-cut- 
ting process is. 

IN SHORT-FRAME CUTTING, 

about two yards of cloth are cut before 
a change is made. Here the cutter, 
with a peculiar swing of the body, 
forces the knife to the end of the two 
yards. 

Considerable skill is required in a 
good cutter, as a wrong movement is 
liable to damage the piece, either by 
running the knife through it or by 
cutting at the side instead of the cen- 
ter of the race. 

The amount of seconds in velveteens 
is very large, there being many of 
them made after they leave the loom, 
as well as during the process of weav- 
ing. The least imperfection in weav- 
ing will cause trouble in cutting. 

TWO KINDS OF MACHINES. 

Machines for cutting velveteens are 
of two kinds, blade cutters, and disc 
or circular cutters. The blade cutters 
most nearly approach the results at- 
tained by hand cutting, the blades be- 
ing inserted below the filling so as to 
force the points of the filling upward 
as they cut. The disc cutters cut the 
filling from the top of the cloth down- 
ward, the resulting pile being inferior 
to that cut by blades. Blade cutters 



496 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



are of two kinds, single and multiple. 
The former have so far given the most 
satisfactory results on account of the 
difficulty of keeping the several blades 
in a multiple machine in perfect align- 
ment with each other. 
The blades are similar to those used 



table, and the knives have a horizon- 
tal movement. 

Both of these types of machines are 
fitted with either mechanical or elec- 
trical stop motions, which cause them 
to stop immediately a knife jumps out 
or meets with an obstruction when 




Fig. 2. 



when cutting by hand, except that 
they are smaller. 

With a single blade one race is cut at 
a time, either in lengths of 12 yards or 
the entire piece, and it is necessary to 
repeat the operation for each race in 
the cloth. The blade machines proper 
are of two kinds, those in which the 
knives are stationary, the full length 
of cloth being passed through in an 
endless form, and those in which the 
cloth is stationary, stretched on a long 



cutting, or when the end of the race 
is reached. 

Machine cutters require the 
CONSTANT ATTENTION 
of a skilled mechanic to keep them in 
proper condition. If they are not kept 
sharp and exactly to gauge, the pile 
will appear stripey, due to uneven cut- 
ing. 

Figs. 2 and 3 illustrate a continu- 
ous cutting machine with four knives. 

Cloth cut by a machine of this type 
is claimed to be of a superior quality, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



497 



because there is no necessity to take 
the knives out every few yards, as is 
the case in hand cutting. 

In addition to the regular tension 
devices for holding the piece tight, 
there are special plates arranged for 
holding and supporting the fabric im- 



that they lie upon the fabric as it 
is fed forward, and so continu- 
ously cut it. The mounting of the 
knives is of such a character that in 
the event of an accident, the worst 
that can happen is the puncture of 
the fabric, but the hole so made is only 




Fig. 3. 



mediately under the race being cut. 

The mechanism is so arranged that 
the knives, plates, etc., are all moved 
simultaneously, after each cut. 

The knives are mounted on 
hinged arms in such a manner 



a small one, as the knife is instantly 
released and the machine stopped. 

When the end of a race is reached 
the knives are readjusted and another 
set of races cut. 

The disc cutting machines are 



498 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



fitted with cutting discs of steel 
plate, accurately gauged and well 
sharpened, mounted on a shaft, run- 
ning at a speed of about 3,000 revo- 
lutions per minute. They are sharpen- 
ed automatically while the machine is 
in motion. The number of these cut- 
ters depends on the number of races 
to be cut. 

The discs run inside small iron tri- 
angles, which serve as guides. These 
guides are placed in the races of the 
cloth by hand, and the piece is cut as 
it is drawn forward by the machine. 

The 

PRODUCTION OF A DISC CUTTER 

is much greater than that of a blade 
cutter. 

The disc machine effects quite a 
saving in cutting corduroys, these fab- 
rics not having as many races as vel- 
veteens. 

Devices for cutting the pile filling 
during the process of weaving have 
been tried, but have not met with suc- 
cess. One objection to this method is 
that the goods cannot be finished sat- 
isfactorily, the pile pulling out, if han- 
dled too severely. 



BRILLIANTINE 

Brilliantine is a dress fabric, re- 
sembling alpaca, but of superior qual- 
ity and sometimes finished on both 
sides. Brilliantines are made with a, 
cotton warp and luster worsted filling. 
Luster wool is grown in Indiana and 
Kentucky and is commonly known in 
the trade as braid wool. 

Luster wools are more extensively 
grown in England. The best qualities 
are grown in Lincolnshire. The fibres 
of Lincolnshire luster range from 8 to 
12 inches and are about l-800th of an 
inch in diameter. 

The wool after it comes from the 
sheep is sorted both for quality and 
luster, and the higher the degree of 
luster the more adaptable it is for 
fancy shades, while the dull or semi- 
luster is only used for dark colors. 

Brilliantines are sometimes woven 
with undyed weft yarn and very rarely 
if ever with undyed warp yarn. They 



are commonly made with both warp 
and weft yarns dyed previous to weav- 
ing. The warp yarn may be the same 
color as weft or it may be entirely 
different. If, however, a one-colored 
fabric is desired and it is to be made 
with undyed weft yarn, the warp yarn 
must be dyed, previous to weaving, the 
same color as the weft will be dyed 
after the fabric is woven. The warr 
being cotton will not take color in e 
wool dye-bath. 




Fig. 1. 

Fig. 1 shows sample in which both 
warp and weft are dyed previous tr 
weaving. The warp is light brown and 
the weft is a medium shade of green. 
This contrast of colors in connection 
with the weave gives the fabric 

A VERY PRETTY EFFECT. 

Any combination of colors may be 
used. A very important factor to con- 
sider in making brilliantines is the 
weave. The object is to have as much 
weft floating on the face of the fab- 
ric as warp, and in figured brilliantines 
the figure must in all cases be a weft 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



499 



floating figure. The reason for this is 
obvious when a lustrous fabric is de- 
sired. 

The design in Fig. 2, of which two 
repeats are shown, both warp way and 
filling way, shows the filling to float 



LJjmJGIIIiDJaUulODJIIiGuiMl^auCLlG 
y»aBJG*««MJDDUGBDaM»«BDa»B«BCD-DJ*an 

uj jd jaBBHaaDauBaaaaafluaaBiiBDaaaaHDHB 

S jGUaBBaJDauBaBBBaBCJGuDBBDDDaLBLJ»VBB 
njjnBB^GnaBBGJBBBBBDDaDBBDaCDBB ■ »■■■ 
njaaBJDGBB«uaBBBB._'„. ■_■' . .B....... ilik. •■•■ 

□naBaaBBBBaaaBBBDaDDDBaDBBBBDDBBBBDa 

H j«"BaaaBjaaaaBaG^ULjaGB»BBB[j:_DBi?BnDa 
HiaiiMiGGMMGLiaDDiuiimuGcmDaun 

■ nBBBaBDa3aalBGJDDDUBaiiBBBaani_DBBDDDDD 

aaSBBaanaaBBnanaBBaBBBBBDnaDBBaDDDBB 

nBBBBGJDaaaaaaGiiBHULiBBBBDDDDCBDDDBBBa 
BflSaGGaGGB GBBB BGGBaBBGGDGGaGGBBBBGG 

BiaaGGGGaGBBaaBanauiaBa" GGGBGBBBBBGaa 
Si^aaGaaaBjajB-jGGBBBacGcaBCBBBBBGGca 

"aGGaaBGBBaBTGaGGBrOGGaGBCBBBBBGGaca 
G3GGBa"BlBa?r)DGGBBaGGaBBODeBBBBaaGqB 
nGaa-lGGBBaBGGGGGBanaBBBGBBBBBBquqqgB 

BaBaaaaaBBGaaGGBGGaBBBaGBBB»Bqqqqaag 

BBS 3G IBBBGGaDGnniBPBBGPGEBrqqqqqaBGB 

BaGaaBB«GaaGGaniBBWB^rnBBqcLnGqcBGBi. 
BG^aa*aaaaDGBGBBBBBqGaaBqqGqBBGBBBf 

GGGGBaGGGG^BG^WBBBanqqjrGGGGBBGBBBBB 

nGaaBGaaBBBanBBBaa^naoarggaBBqaBBBBq 

DaGBGGBaaaGnBWBBPaaG-BrDBBBBGGjBBBG ] 



aGBGaii^*aGG^"»aG^arnBn»pB5ii 

nBGBBBBBGGGBBBGaaqGBGBBBBBG 




Fig. 2. 

on the face of the fabric in exact pro- 
portions to the float of warp. 

Very pretty effects are obtained with 
a plain ground weave with a small 
jacquard figure, and when a very lus- 
trous fabric is wanted, the warp yarn 
is of finer counts than weft yarn. 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed (without sel- 
vage), 42y 2 inches; width of fabric 
finished, 40 inches; ends per inch in 
reed, 60; ends per inch finished, 64; 
ends in warp 2,535 — light brown; 60 
ends selvage white (30 ends each 
side), equals 2,595. 

Reed 30 x 2 equals 60 ends. 

Take-up of warp during weaving 6 
per cent. Weight of fabric per yard 
from loom 5 ounces; weight of fabric 
finished practically the same. 

Body of warp 2-40s cotton dyed; sel- 
vage 2-40s cotton undyed. 

Brilliantines, mohairs and alpacas 
are usually made with different color- 
ed selvage yarn than the body of warp. 

Filling all l-30s luster worsted, of 
about U, -blood stock. 



Fig. 3 shows drawing-in draft — 
drawn in on 18 harnesses straight 
draw, pattern repeats on 18 ends and 
18 picks. 

LOOM REQUIRED. * 

For small figured brilliantine a 
dobby loom would be about the best. 
Large figures require a jacquard 
loom; brilliantines usually require 
only one kind of filling, consequently 
a box loom is not necessary, but in 
order to keep the shade of weft as 
even as possible when using dyed 
yarn, two shuttles are sometimes used 
weaving "pick and pick." 
FINISH. 

Brilliantines made with undyed 
weft, after they come from the loom, 
are first scoured, then dyed; after 
which they are run through a rotary 
press, of which the cylinder has from 
50 to 60 pounds of steam heat. Bril- 
liantines shrink a little after they 
come from the loom. The pressure to 
which they are subjected during the 
finishing process stretches them out 
to their original length. Those made 
with dyed yarns are usually given a 
dry finish, that is, they are simply run 

iadaaQaaaGcaaqqqqFj 

QGBGGGGaaGGaGLqCGq 

DaaaBaaaoaaaqcqcqq 
dggggi aaaacqqqqGqq 
oaaDaama aaaaqqqqqq 
aaaaaGGB Gqqqqqqqqu 
aaaaaaaaBaqaqqpqnq 
aaaaGaaaGiiigqqgcqra 
aDDDDDDDnnBDDucqqn 
aDDaanoDDDGBDqqGpq 

QOOOQDOOOQDDQBCOrq 

DDDnanDnDDDDDDB qq 
DaaaaaDDnDDCDGCBaq 

ODDDDDDDCDC OQDqqBD 

rjanasaDaaaaaaaoDam 
Fig. 3. 

through the press, cylinder heated, 
after which they are rolled, then 
packed. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

In a previous article, under the 
heading "Carding and Spinning Par- 
ticulars," the mills were subdivided 
into three divisions. For the benefit 
of readers, we will repeat how they 
were divided for use in these articles. 
Mills making low count yarns say 
from Is to 30s, were included in the 
first division, those making medium 



500 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



count yarns, or from 30 to 70s, were 
included in the second, and the third 
division comprised mills making yarns 
from 70s up. This does not mean that 
only tlje yarns between the counts 
given are made in one division, but 
that the greater portion of the counts 
of yarn made in the divisions referred 
to are between the counts given. The 

COUNT OF COTTON YARN 
used for brilliantine for this article is 
2-40s. The filling yarn is luster wor- 
sted yarn, and therefore we will only 
deal with the cotton warp yarn. This 
class of yarns is made in the second 
division of mills, the cotton used be- 
ing of a medium grade and having a 
staple of about 1 3-16 inches. The 
equipment for the second division of 
mills may call for a bale breaker or 
not. We will consider that one is in- 
cluded. The bales of cotton are 
stapled and several placed around and 
fed to the bale breaker alternately 
from each bale until all are gone. The 
bale breaker has a capacity of about 
80,000 pounds per week of 60 hours. 
The cotton is carried by endless mov- 
ing aprons so arranged that they may 
be moved so as to allow the cotton to 
be dropped into its proper bin. The 
bins should be as large as possible so 
as to allow 

A LARGE MIXING. 
At this point the sliver waste from the 
machines up to the slubber is mixed 
with the raw stock. The cut-roving 
waste of the same length and grade 
of staple is not mixed at this place, 
but has to go through a special pick- 
ing machine, which takes out the 
twist, then it is put through a picker 
and made into a lap, after which it is 
mixed with the raw stock, as will be 
shown later. The equipment for this 
division may include two or three 
processes of pickers. We will consid- 
er that it contains an opener and three 
processes of picking. 

THE BEATER 
used is generally of the porcupine pat- 
tern and the speed should be about 
1,000 revolutions per minute for this 
class of work. The opener is gener- 
ally attached to the breaker picker 
and after passing the beater of the 



opener the cotton is passed to the feed 
rolls by a moving endless apron. At 
this point the cotton is in an open, 
fluffy state. The feed rolls condense 
the cotton, as it passes between the 
rolls, into a sheet, and in this state it 
is presented to the beater of the 
breaker picker. This beater is gener- 
ally of a rigid, two-bladed type, and 
for the cotton in question has a speed 
of 1,500 revolutions per minute. The 
cotton is then blown onto a set of 
cages and compressed into a sheet, 
after which it passes through several 
sets of calender rolls between which 
it is further pressed. The total weight 
of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or 
about 16 ounces to the yard. These 
laps are put up at the back of the in- 
termediate picker and 

DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE. 

The speed of this beater is about 1,- 
450 revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front is 37 
pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. It is at this 
point that the cut-roving waste before 
spoken of is mixed in the proportion 
of three laps of raw stock to one lap 
of roving or bobbin waste. The speed 
of this beater is about 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute, which gives the cot- 
ton passing it about 42 beats or blows 
per minute. The total weight of the 
lap at the front of this picker is 39 
pounds or about a 14-ounce lap. These 
laps are then taken to the card, the 
draft of which for this class of work 
should not exceed 110. The fillet on 
the cylinder should be of No. 34 Amer- 
ican wire or 110s English count and 
on the doffer and top flats should be 
No. 35 wire or 120s English count. 
The top flats should make one com 
plete revolution every 45 minutes. 

THE CARDS 
should be stripped (both cylinder and 
doffer) three times a day and ground 
at least once a month. The cards 
should be reset after every grinding 
in all parts, except the top flats to the 
cylinder, which should be reset at 
least four times a year. The weight 
of sliver at the delivery end of the 
card should be about 65 grains per 
yard. The cotton is next put through 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



501 



three processes of drawing frames. 
Metallic rolls may be used to good ad- 
vantage on work of this description, 
the speed of the front roll at each 
process being 400 revolutions per min- 
ute. The weight of the sliver at the 
finisher drawing frame should be about 
70 grains. The cotton is next put 
through the slubber and made into .55 
hank roving. 

The roving is then put through 

THREE PROCESSES 

of fly frames. At the first intermedi- 
ate it is made into 1.50 hank roving, 
at the second intermediate into 3 hank 
and at the jack frame into 9. This 
roving is then taken to the ring spin- 
ning room and spun into 40s yarn on a 
frame with the following particulars: 
Gauge of frame, 21 inches; diameter 
of ring, 1| inches; length of trav- 
erse, %y 2 inches; twist per inch, 28.- 
46; revolutions per minute of spindles, 
10,000. From here it is passed to the 
spooler and then to the twister, where 
it is twisted into 2-40s, and then back 
to the spooler. From here it goes to 
the warper and from the warper the 
beams are put up at the slasher, 
where it is sized, and then it is ready 
for the weave room. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

These goods are dyed in the piece 
if solid shades are wanted, but if two- 
colored fancies are made, the warp 
and the worsted yarn are dyed in the 
yarn, woven and finished. For piece 
dyes union colors are used, or the 
wool is dyed in an acid bath, rinsed 
and the pieces are cotton dyed cold. 

For union black, 5 per cent union 
black A., 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 
Boil until wool is dyed, and run with- 
out steam until cotton is dyed up to 
shade; if cotton is not dark enough 
add some cotton black. 

The union fancy colors are dyed iiv 
the same way. 

Wool yarn dyeing. For 100 pounds 
yarn, 10 pounds Glauber's salt, 3 
pounds sulphuric acid. Enter pieces at 
150 degrees, bring to boil and boil 40 
minutes. 



LIGHT SAGE GREEN. 
1% ounces orange II.; l 1 ^ ounces 
cyanole BB. ; \ ounce fast yellow S. 

MEDIUM SAGE GREEN. 
6 ounces orange II.; 2 ounces fast 
yellow S.; 1 pound cyanole BB. 

DARK SAGE GREEN. 
10 ounces orange II.; 3 ounces fast 
yellow S.; iy± pounds cyanole BB. 

• MEDIUM OLIVE GREEN. 
1Y-2 pounds fast yellow S.; 6 ounces 
orange II.; 1 pound cyanole BB. 

OLIVE GREEN. 
2y 2 pounds fast yellow S.; y 2 pound 
orange II.; \y 2 pounds cyanole BB. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 

3 pounds fast green bluish; y 2 pound 
fast yellow S.; y 2 pound formyl violet 
S. 4B. 

NAVY BLUE. 

2 pounds indigo blue SGN. ; 2 ounces 
formyl violet S. 4B. 

DARK NAVY BLUE. 

4 pound's indigo blue SGN.; y 2 
pound orange II.; y 2 pound formyl vio- 
let S. 4B. 

SLATE. 
6 ounces alizarine blue SAP.; y 2 
ounce orange II.; y 2 ounce fast yellow 
G. 

RED. 
4 pounds fast red NS.; 6 ounces 
orange II. 

ROSE. 

3 pounds rhodamine B.; 1 pound 
rhodamine 5G. 

SCARLET. 
3 pounds brilliant scarlet 1R. 

BROWN. 
2y 2 pounds orange II.; y 2 pound fast 
green bluish; 3 ounces fast acid vio- 
let 10B.; y 2 pound fast yellow G. 

The warps are dyed in the chain 
dyeing machine with fast sulphur col- 
ors if possible. For 100 pounds warp: 

BLUE. 
8 pounds immedial indone 3B.; 16 
pounds sodium sulphide; 8 pounds 
glucose; 3 pounds soda ash; 15 pound* 
Glauber's. 



502 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



SLATE. 

3 pounds thion black G.; 3 pounds 
sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 
20 pounds Glauber's. 

FAWN DRAB. 

6 pounds immedial cutch O.; 6 
pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds 
soda ash; 20 pounds Glauber's. 

GREEN. 

4 pounds immedial yellow D.; 4 
pounds immedial indone 3B.; 8 pounds 
sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 
30 pounds Glauber's salt. 

OLIVE. 

7 pounds immedial olive 3G.; 2 
pounds immedial dark green B.; 10 
pounds sodium sulphide; 30 pounds 
Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. 

NAVY BLUE. 
10 pounds immedial dark blue B.; 
10 pounds sodium sulphide; 30 pounds 
Glauber's saltj 3 pounds soda ash. 

The fancy shades can also be dyed 
with one-dip salt colors and tannine 
basic colors. 

-o ♦ » 



CALICO 



A calico may be denned as a cotton 
cloth with a figured design printed on 
one side; generally speaking, any 
printed cloth coarser than muslin, 
used principally for inexpensive 
dresses, such as shirtwaists, wrap- 
pers, and so on. 

The majority of inexpensive cotton 
fabrics are constructed on the one-up, 
one-down system, or plain weave. Cal- 
ico is no exception to the rule. Its 
ornamentation, however, is given it 
after the cloth comes from the loom. 
As mentioned above, calico is a print- 
ed cloth, 

THE PRINTING 

being effected by means of a printing 
machine, which may be described as 
an elaborate machine with a rotating 
impression cylinder, on which the de- 
sign has been stamped, or cut. The 
cloth, in passing through the machine, 
comes in contact with the impression 
cylinder. The cylinder, revolving in a 
color trough, takes up the color and 
leaves the impression of the design 



on the cloth. Calicoes may be seen In 
almost any color. The printing ma- 
chine is capable of printing several 

COLORS 

in one design. Calicoes, however, are 
usually in but two colors, that is, one 
color for ground and one for the fig- 
ure. 

The method of placing the color 
upon the fabric depends a good deal 
upon the kind of a pattern which is 
to be made, and the results desired. 
In some instances the figure is printed 
upon the cloth in a kind of resist, and 
then the fabric is taken and piece 
dyed. Wherever the resist figures are 




Fig. 1. 

printed the color does not take and 
the figures show on a solid colored 
ground. Whenever the ground of the 
fabric is largely white the figures are 
printed in various colors as desired. 
There are a few instances where the 
fabric is dyed first and then a printed 
pattern applied afterward, though this 
is not so common a practice as the 
ones previously mentioned. The de- 
velopment of so many new colors and 
the variation in the method of apply- 
ing them has made many new proc- 
esses possible in printed fabrics, and 
it often happens that results are se- 
cured through more than one method. 
The printed designs on calicoes may 
be somewhat elaborate or they may 
be some simple geometrical figures. In 
order, however, to comply with the 
true principles of art, such fabrics as 
calicoes should have but simple geo- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



503 



metrical figures for their ornamental 
features. 

Fig. 1 shows a sample of calico, with 
a printed geometrical figure, the sim- 
plicity of which is in harmony with 
the structure of the fabric. 

We may here mention that with all 
machine repeating designs the figures 
must be laid out in conformity with 
the dimensions of the printing roll. 
For instance, say, the printing roll 
measures six inches in circumference, 
and the design which we wish to print 
is but two inches in its vertical re- 
peat, in order to have perfect repeti- 
tion we must have three repeats of the 
design stamped on the impression roll. 

The circumference of the printing 
roll will, therefore, control the size 
and proportion of the design. The de- 
sign must be so adjusted that the re- 
peat will occur with the utmost ac- 
curacy. 

Calicoes are made in comparatively 
narrow widths. The one under discus- 
sion is but 23% inches, finished. 
ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed, 25% inches; 
width of fabric finished, 24 inches; 

Design. 

□■□■□■OB 

■aaaacwa 

i a::a3*cm 
■□■□■a«a 
amamauam 
uamamnua 

DBOBDBrB 

mDuamam3 
Fig. 2. 

Drawing-ln-draft 

□□□□DO~B 

onooaoma 

DDDQ~BO 1 
QaQQBDLD 
DCl'M 'ODD 

uoBonnoa 

013G DO 1 
■DQQQDOa 

Fig. 3. 

ends in • finished cloth per inch, 72; 
ends in warp, 1,700; ends per inch in 
reed, 66 2-3; 1,200 x 2 reed. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 
per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, 
from loom, 2 ounces; weight of fabric 
finished, 2 ounces; warp all l-30s 
carded peeler. 

Filling: 52 picks per inch in loom; 
52 picks per inch finished. 

Count l-30s carded peeler. 

The automatic loom would be the 
most economical loom to use for cali- 
coes and similar fabrics. The warp is 



usually sized, in order to strengthen 
the yarn. In the sizing process about 
10 or 15 per cent of weight of sizing 
material is added to the yarn, which 
consists chiefly of wheat flour or po- 
tato starch. 

FINISHING. 

The cloth, after it comes from the 
loom, is sent to the dyehouse. The 
first process is to boil it off, after 
which it is bleached. When the fabric 
is bleached it is usually printed. It 
may or may not be piece dyed after- 
ward. The method of finishing or set- 
ting the color depends a good deal upon 
the kind of color used. It may be said, 
however, that the colors are much 
faster than they formerly were and for 
their purposes are usually satisfac- 
tory. Calicoes are given what may be 
termed a "cheap cotton dye." By 
"cheap cotton dye" is meant that the 
colors are not fast, but will run or fade 
somewhat. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that make up calico may 
be made in either the first or second 
division of mills, as given in a pre- 
vious lesson. The counts of the yarns. 
used for the particular fabric for this 
article are l-30s, both warp and filling, 
and these are made out of 1 1-16 
inches staple American cotton. After 
being sampled, several ' bales are 
placed around the bale breaker, and 
fed to this machine, a little from each 
bale. By doing this a 

MORE EVEN YARN 
is apt to be obtained. After passing 
through the bale breaker the cotton is 
conveyed either by endless lattices or 
blower and trunking to the cotton 
bins. As large a mixing as possible 
should be made at one time. The raw 
stock for this fabric is put throu b h an 
opener and three processes of pick- 
ing. The opener is never allowed to 
become less than half full when ma- 
chine is running, for reasons given in 
previous articles. The beater of this 
machine runs at a speed of about 900 
revolutions per minute. After passing 
through this machine, which is gener- 
ally connected directly with the break- 
er picker, either by trunking or by an 



504 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



endless lattice, the cotton comes un- 
der the action of the feed rolls of the 
breaker picker, which compress it into 
a sheet, and it is in this form that it 
is presented to the beater. For this 
class of work a 

TWO-BLADED BEATER 
is used and the speed of the beater at 
this machine is 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of a lap at 
the front end is 40 pounds, or about a 
16-ounce lap. These laps are put up 
at the intermediate picker and doubled 
four into one. The speed of the beater 
for this machine is about 1,350 revo- 
lutions per minute. The total weight 
of lap at the front is 37 pounds or 12 
ounces to the yard. These laps are put 
up at the finisher picker, and doubled 
four into one. It is at this point that 
the cut-roving waste is mixed in with 
the raw stock in the proportion of 
three laps of raw stock to one lap of 
roving waste. It is understood that 
the bobbin waste has to go through a 
special process before being mixed 
with the raw stock. The speed of the 
beater for this machine is about the 
same as that of the intermediate pick- 
er, 1,350 revolutions per minute. This 
gives tbe cotton passing under its ac- 
tion about 42 beats per inch. The to- 
tal weight of a lap at the front is 35 
pounds or a 13-ounce lap. These laps 
are then taken to the card room, as 
needed, and put up at 

THE CARD. 
This card should have a draft not ex- 
ceeding 100. The cylinder fillet for 
this class of work should be composed 
of No. 33 or 100s English count wire, 
and the doffer fillet and that of the 
top combs of No. 34 wire or 110s Eng- 
lish count. The speed of the licker-in 
is 300 revolutions per minute, and the 
top flats make one complete revolution 
every 50 minutes. The cards should be 
stripped three times a day, and ground 
at least once every month, ant set at 
the time of grinding. Keep parts at 
the front of card cleaned of all fly and 
collect the fly from the flats before 
it accumulates and falls over the 
doffer or goes up under the flat comb 
and gets onto the flats. The weight of 
the sliver at the front should be 65 
grains per yard, the production about 



750 pounds per week of 60 hours. From 
the card the sliver is put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 

At these machines the doubling is six 
into one. The draft at the different 
processes is as follows: Breaker, 4.50; 
intermediate, 7; finisher, 7.20. The 
setting of the rolls is as follows: Dis- 
tance between front and second, 1*4 
inches; between second and third, 1| 
inches; third and back, 1% inches. The 
front roll makes 400 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of sliver at the 
finisher drawing is 72 grains per yard. 
The drawing sliver is put through the 
slubber where it is drawn into .60 hank 
roving. Set rolls as follows: front to 
second, l 1 /^ inches; second to back, iy 2 
inches. 

The slubber roving is put through 
two processes of fly frames at the first 
intermediate. The hank roving is 2.25 
hank and at the next process it is 
drawn into 6. hank. The lays per 
inch of the roving on the bobbin at 
this machine are 33. Look out for the 
top rolls to see that they are always 
in the best of condition. From the 
jack frame the roving is taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM 

where it is spun into 30s yarn. The 
particulars for a warp frame are as 
follows: Gauge of frame, 21 inches; 
diameter of ring, 11 inches; length of 
traverse, 6%; speed of spindle, 9,800 
revolutions per minute; twist per 
inch, 26.02. The yarn is then taken to 
the spooler and then to the warper. 
From the warper the beams are put 
through the slasher. A good sizing to 
be used for this fabric is as follows: 
Water, 100 gallons; cornstarch, 50 
pounds; tallow, three pounds; turpen- 
tine, one gill. Boil i>0 minutes if the 
cloth is woven on a common loom. If 
woven on an automatic loom use of 
water, 100 gallons: potato starch, 50 
pounds; tallow, three pounds; tur- 
pentine, one gill. Boil 30 minutes. 

The filling yarn (30s) is made on a 
frame fitted as follows: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
11 inches; length of traverse, 6 
inches; speed of spindles, 8,300 revolu- 
tions per minute; twist per inch, 
19.16. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



505 



Printing Particulars. 

Many of the designs for calicoes and 
cotton cloth printing are made in 
Paris, which has been the headquar- 
ters for many years of new styles and 
fashions.' 

The design is taken by the sketch 
maker, and drawn to scale, so that 
the engraver can apply it to the cop- 
per roller. Formerly all the printing 
was by hand (block) printing. Now 
machines are made to print from one 
to 24 colors. 

A 12 -color machine is the largest 
generally used, but there are a few 
24-color printing machines in Europe. 
Each color has a separate roller and 
the engraver has to make the pattern 
fit on every roller, so that when the 
piece is printed the design is not 
spoiled and the colors mixed up. 

Few realize the accuracy which has 
to be observed in joining the various 
patterns so as to produce a complete 
whole. When a floral pattern is be- 
ing produced, the various colors must 
join accurately; that is, a yellow flow- 
er must be joined to a green stem or 
some such method. The green stem 
cannot be joined to the flower except 
in one place and have it satisfactory. 
To those who are familiar with the 
subject there are quite often intricate 
patterns noted where the colors do 
not join accurately; that is, there will 
be a little streak of white between 
two colors where they should meet ex- 
actly and leave no space between. This 
is seldom the result of inaccurately 
made patterns, but rather is the re- 
sult of the copper rollers being inac- 
curately spaced. 

ENGRAVING THE ROLLERS 

is done by hand or machine, by the 
pantograph or the die machine. 

The printing machine turns out 
about 400 to 800 50-yard pieces a day. 
There have been times where 1,000 
50-yard pieces have been run in 12 
nours, a one-color pattern, but for 
some designs and cloths only 250 
pieces are run in a day. 

The pieces are singed and bleached, 
then sheared and brushed to take 
away all lint from the face of the 
piece. 



The pieces are printed, dried, and 
steamed to fix the color, afterward 
soaped and washed, then finished and 
folded, and made up, ready for the 
market, being generally packed in 20- 
piece lots, to be shipped to any point 
of the compass. There are 

MANY STYLES 

of calico printing. At present the 
steam styles are most prominent. The 
colors are the fastest and brightest to 
be obtained. The most important 
styles will now be considered. First 
in the list are alizarine colors, of al- 
most every hue and shade, reds, pinks, 
purples, browns, blues, yellows, 
oranges, etc. Alizarines are fixed on 
the fibre by chrome mordants. 

BLUE. 
Three pounds alizarine blue S. 
paste, 20 per cent; one gallon starch 
thickening; three pounds acetate 
chrome, 20 degrees Tw. After print- 
ing, the pieces are steamed for one 
hour, four pounds steam pressure, then 
soaped and washed. 

BASIC COLORS 
are good bright, fast colors fixed with 
tannine: 10 ounces auramine, 1% 
pints of water, 1% pints of acetic acid, 
10 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 
lxl; 2*4 pints acetic acid tannic acid 
solution, lxl. Steam and run through 
a bath of tartar emetic; wash and 
dry. The basic colors are very bright, 
and consist of every shade in the rain- 
bow. 

Extracts of various dyewoods are 
still used for some styles, fixed with 
chrome or alumina. 

PIGMENT STYLES 
are fixed with albumen as vermilion 
red, chrome green, ultramarine blue, 
etc. Indigo blue is dyed, then dis- 
charged white, yellow, orange and 
other colors are printed on the dyed 
pieces. Aniline black is an important 
style with many resist colors printed 
first, the black padded afterward and 
oxidized. This is extensively used. 

Patterns are printed on the cloth 
with mordants of iron and alum. The 
cloth is then aged and dunged, dyed 
with alizarine, and the old madder 
styles produced, which were in such 



60t> 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



demand 50 years ago. Then there are 
Turkey-red styles, with discharge 
white, yellow, blue, green, black on red 
ground; discharge white and colors 
on blues, browns, wines, etc. Indigo 
blues are dyed in the vat with a large 
proportion of synthetic indigo and dis- 
charges printed on. There is also di- 
rect indigo printing with the glucose 
process. 

New styles and combinations of col- 
ors are produced every month and 
faster and brighter colors printed 
each season. 

+-++ 



PERCALE 



Percale may be defined as a closely 
woven fabric, made with a good qual- 
ity of cotton yarn. Percale is of French 
origin and was originally made with 
linen yarn, hence the name, as it is 



i Vi V 
it 


w - 


V 


m- 





• 


P * 






B • 






SOB o 


• 





5 ! 






:0; • 


<} 


• 


I i 








• 





■ k 


() 


• 


■ B. 

■ A 5 A 




/\ 



Fig. 1. 

sometimes called French cambric. 

The finer qualities of percale are 
used for hankerchiefs, aprons, etc. 
When used for these purposes they 
are not printed, but bleached, after the 
fabrics come from the loom. 



Percale, however, is chiefly used for 
dress fabrics, such as shirt-waist suits 
for spring and summer wear, and as 
such, is quite common. 

Percale, when intended for dress 
fabrics, is usually printed on 'one side 
with some neat geometrical figure. 
The printed figure is usually in black, 
although some may be seen in red or 
blue. The fabric is bleached before 
it is subjected to the printing opera- 
tion. 

A CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE 
of percale is the lack of gloss, or its 
dull finish, due to the fact that it is 
not subjected to any pressure during 
the finishing process. Percales may 
also be described as plain woven fab- 
rics with a printed design on one 
side. 

The color used for the printed fig- 
ures is quite durable, in so far that it 

aaDaaananaDHaBna 
BcuraaaanBnBCBDBa 

□BUBlBaBGBjBDBGB 
BZHaBDBaBDBOBQBa 
DBaBTBasr B:.BDBQB 
B 3 1 DBGBnBDBGBGBG 
DaaiGBGBGBGBGHGB 
BGaGBGBGBGBGBGBG 
□BGBGS 1 B aBGBGBGB 

nnnn»:i3i:«j 

f iBGIGaiHGBOB'IBOB 
■DBGBGBriBGBGBGBG 
GBG^GBGBQBGBaBaB 
BGBGBGBnBnBnBaBn 
DIliniDCDiDIDiai 
BGBGBGBGBGBGBGBG 

Fig. 2. 
Weave. 



aaaBaaoBaaDBoaaB 

DQBoaaaQaaBCQOBD 

DBDDDBDDDBDDDB Da 

■ODaBDQDHnDDBaaa 

Fig. 3. 
4 Repeats. 

will not readily fade and will wear 
almost as long and well as the fabric. 

The printed designs on percales are 
usually plain but neat geometrical fig- 
ures. The polka dot pattern is quite 
common. It produces a very neat ef- 
fect, especially when dots are in black. 
Striped designs are also very common. 
Some very neat effects may be ob- 
tained when using a stripe in connec- 
tion with some simple geometrical 
figure. 

Fig. 1 shows on an enlarged scale a 
design for a stripe percale. The stripes 
as a rule run in the direction of 
the warp. Stripes running vertically 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



507 



tend to increase the appearance of 
height, while stripes running horizon- 
tally tend to decrease the impression 
of height; for this reason short per- 
sons are advised to select dress goods 
with the stripe running vertically. 

Percale, like most cotton fabrics, is 
made in several qualities, as regards 
counts of yarn used, and the number 
of ends and picks per inch. We will 
here give an analysis of a good grade: 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 38^ inches; 
width of fabric finished, 36 inches; 
ends per inch, finished, 85; ends in 
body of warp, 3,080; 20 ends for sel- 
vage; total ends, 3,100. 

Take-up of warp during weaving 6 
per cent; weight of fabric per yard 
from loom, 3y 2 ounces. 

Finished weight, Zy 2 ounces per 
yard; warp, all l-30s carded peeler; 
reed, 1,400x2. 

Filling, all l-36s combed peeler, 74 
picks per inch in loom; 74 picks per 
inch, finished. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Percale, like most cotton fabrics, is 
woven on looms with high running 
speed. Percales are plain woven fab- 
rics, consequently no dobby is requir- 
ed. The automatic loom would be 
the most economical loom to use in the 
manufacture of percale, or if an auto- 
matic loom is not available use any 
plain weaving loom and draw warp 
straight on 4 harness. Considerable 
care should be exercised in the weav- 
ing. No broken picks should be al- 
lowed to pass, as they will show quite 
distinctly in the finished fabric. 
FINISHING. 

After the fabric comes from the 
loom it is sent to the bleach house, 
where it is first boiled off. Then it is 
bleached. After the bleaching process 
the fabric is ready for the printer. 
After the printing operation the fab- 
ric is slightly stiffened, by being pass- 
ed through a size trough. The size 
used for stiffening is usually corn, 
wheat, rice, barley, potato or farina. 
Any of these will give the desired ef- 
fect. 

The fabric passes from the sizing 
trough onto the drying cylinders, after 



which it is folded; then it is ready 
for shipment. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn of which percale 
is composed are made in mills of the 
second division. The counts of yarn 
vary according to the quality of the 
cloth. In this lesson we will consider 
the count of the filling yarn to be 36s 
and the warp yarn to be 30s. The yarn 
is carded peeler of 1 l-16th inches 
staple. The cotton is brought from the 
storehouse and sampled, and all bales 
of the same length and grade of staple 
are placed around the bale breaker. 
The cotton is fed from each bale alter- 
nately to the breaker. From the 
breaker it is conveyed automatically 
to the so-called mixing bins, either 
by endless lattices or a blower and 
trunking, or a combination of both. 
The latter method is the better one, 
because it 

HELPS TO DRY OUT 

the cotton better. At the mixing bins 
the sliver waste from all the machines 
up to the slubber is mixed in. The 
sliver waste should not be thrown in 
in long lengths, but should be broken 
into short lengths, so that it will not 
become wound around the pin roller 
of the hopper. The raw stock is next 
put through a hopper and either two 
or three processes of pickers. The 
hopper should be kept well filled so as 
to insure a uniform amount of cotton 
always being delivered to the pin roll- 
er. This machine is generally provided 
with a porcupine beater. The cotton is 
delivered onto an endless lattice, 
which carries it to the feed rolls of 
the picker. These feed rolls compress 
it and present it to the beater. This 
beater is generally of the rigid type, 
having two or three arms, generally 
two. 

SPEED OF BEATER. 

This beater has a speed of 1,500 rev- 
olutions per minute, if of a two-blad- 
ed type, or 1,000 revolutions per min- 
ute if it has three arms. The total 
weight of the lap at the front of the 
breaker picker is 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 



508 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



l ,he intermediate picker and doubled 
I into 1. The speed of this beater is 
about 1,450 revolutions per minute for 
a two-bladed, or 975 revolutions per 
minute for a three-bladed beater. The 
total weight of a lap at the front is 37 
pounds or a 12-ounce (per yard) lap. 
These laps are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled 4 into 1. At this 
picker the cut-roving waste of the 
same length of staple and cotton is 
mixed in in the proportion of 3 laps 
of raw stock to 1 lap of cut waste. The 
speed of the beater for the machine 
is 1,200 revolutions per minute for a 
two-bladed, or 800 revolutions per 
minute for a three-bladed beater of a 
rigid type. The total weight of a lap 
at the front is 35 pounds or a 12%- 
ounce lap. A variation of one-half 
pound from standard total weight of 
lap is allowed at this picker. All laps 
weighing over 35% pounds or under 
34% pounds should be run over again. 
The laps are taken to 

THE CARDS, 

where the draft should not exceed 100 
for this class of goods. The speed of 
the various parts is as follows: Lick- 
er-in, 300 revolutions per minute; cyl- 
inder, 160 revolutions per minute; 
doffer (24 inch), 9^ revolutions per 
minute. The top flats have one revo- 
lution every 45 minutes. ' The weight 
of the sliver at the front should be 
about 65 grains, and the production 
about 600 pounds per week of 60 hours. 
The weight of the sliver at the front 
of the finisher drawing frame is 60 
grains per yard. The speed of the 
front roll is 350 revolutions per min- 
ute. This sliver is next put through 
the slubber and made into .65 hank 
roving. This is next put through three 
processes of 

PLY FRAMES, 
the hanks at the different processes 
being as follows: First, 1.80; second, 
5.50. There is quite a little variation 
in the sizes of the roving used for any 
size of yarn. For any cheap fabric, 
such as percale, it is the general prac- 
tice to use as long drafts as possible 
and get out the largest production of 
which a machine is capable. It used 
to be a practice to use single roving 



for yarns such as are noted in this 
cloth, but the use of automatic looms 
and the fact that better results are 
secured through the use of stronger 
yarns has now caused a much greater 
amount of double roving on the spin- 
ning frame to be used. From here 
the roving is taken to either the mule 
room or the ring spinning room. We 
will consider that it is taken to the 
ring spinning room, where the frame 
for spinning 36s would be as follows: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1%; length of traverse, 5; 
twist per inch, 27.96; revolutions per 
minute of spindles, 7,400. After the 
spinning frame the yarn is carried 
to the weave room. 

The sliver for warp yarn after leav- 
ing the card is put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING 
the weight of the sliver at the finisher 
drawing being 70 grains per yard, the 
revolutions per minute of the front roll 
being 350. This is put up at the slub- 
ber and made into .50 hank roving, 
after which the roving is put through 
two processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each being as follows: 1st, 
1.80, and 2d, 5.50. The roving is tak- 
en to the spinning room and spun into 
30s yarn on a frame having the follow- 
ing particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1| inches, 
length of traverse, 6% inches; twist 
per inch, 26.02; revolutions per min- 
ute of spindles, 9,800. The yarn is 
next taken to the spooler, then to the 
warper, and from here to the slasher. 

Bleaching and Finishing Particulars. 

Percales are very carefully handled 
in the finishing process. 

The goods are bleached in a kier 
with 4 degrees caustic soda, washed 
and boiled with another process of 4 
degrees caustic soda, washed and 
chemicked at % degree Tw. for six to 
eight hours, being laid in bins. Then 
they are scoured with % degree sul- 
phuric acid, and well washed and 
dried. Some finishers place each piece 
in the kiers separately, and also in 
chemic tubs and scouring bins, for if 
sewed in long lengths and run 
through the machinery in the rope 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



509 



form the pieces are dragged and the 
threads are not straight across the 
piece. Spots and small figures are 
printed on the goods in navy blue, 
brown, black, green and other colors. 

DARK NAVY. 
Eight ounces new fast blue F.; 2 
ounces methyl violet 3 R. ; 1^4 pints 
water; iy 2 pints acetic acid 10 degrees 
Tw.; 7 pints thickening; 8 noggins 
acetic acid and tannic acid (1-1). 

DARK ROSE. 

Four and one-half ounces rhodamine 
5 G. ; 3 pints acetic acid 10 degrees 
Tw. ; 5 pints water; 3% pints mucilage 
tragacanth (70-1,000) ; 4 noggins 
acetic tannic solution (1-1). 

IMPERIAL PURPLE. 

Four ounces methyl violet 4 R. ; 3 
pints acetic acid 10 degrees Tw.; 3 
pints mucilage of tragacanth (70- 
1,000); 5 pints water; 2 noggins acetic 
tannic solution (1-1). 

GREEN. 

Four ounces malachite green; 1% 
pints acetic acid 10 degrees Tw.; 5 
pints gum water (1-1) ; 4 noggins ace- 
tic tannic acid (1-1); 2 pints water. 
GRAY. 

Two ounces new fast gray; 5 pints 
mucilage of tragacanth (70-1,000); 3 
pints albumen water (1-1); 3 pints 
water. 

The above colors are steamed for 
one hour with five pounds steam. They 
are run through a solution of tartar 
emetic, 2 ounces to gallon, soaped and 
rinsed, then dried. 

STARCHING. 

Six to eight ounces white German 
dextrine, 1 gallon water. Mix cold 
and boil for 20 minutes. After starch- 
ing, dry on a tenter frame. 



PERCALINE 

Percaline, like percale, is a plain 
woven fabric made with a good quality 
of single cotton yarn for both warp 
and filling. The similarity extends no 
further; the difference between the 
two fabrics lies chiefly in the weight 
and finish. 



Percaline is a lighter fabric and 
has a very glossy finish, or, more 
properly speaking, a moory finish per- 
caline is usually dyed in solid colors. 
Percale, on the other hand, is a 
bleached cloth with a dull finish and 
usually with a printed design on one 
side. 

Percaline is used chiefly for fem- 
inine wearing apparel, principally for 
linings, petticoats, etc. These purposes 
require that the cloth shall be of solid 
color, the darker colors being prefer- 
red, such as dark blues, dark green 
and black, which have the greatest 
sale. It may, however, also be seen 
in lighter shades, such as a medium 
blue, a light shade of brown and va- 
rious shades of tan. 

Percaline, as mentioned above, is a 
plain woven, single-yarn fabric. The 

WARP YARN IS SIZED 

in order to facilitate the weaving. A 
fabric like percaline requires very lit- 
tle detail work, as far as the design- 
ing is concerned. The most attention 
is given to the finishing process. In 
order to get a good glossy finish a 
certain number of ends and picks per 
inch are required. 

It is important, in laying out the 
ends and picks per inch, that the de- 



B A 

DBDBDBDB nnil 

BQBOBDBD __"!S 

OBDBnBDB r mm 



B A 

nnDDDDOB 

□DDDDDBO 

nnaoDrna □oobdodi 
Daocmoon dbdddboc 
□DDBaana ddbdddbc 
nnBanDDa bdqdbddc 



u«u«lj«u« nnn uuubuuuu 

BDBDBnBD ■■nn DDBaDDDD 

DBDBOBOB nn«« DBaODDDD 

BGBGBDBD BBQ™ BDGaDDDQ 

Fig. 1. Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 2. 
» Chain Drafts Drawing-in Drafts. 

signer bear in mind that unless suf- 
ficient yarn is used, the fabric will 
not acquire the desired effect in the 
finishing. 

This glossy or moory finish is quite 
a characteristic feature in a perca- 
line. The more ends and picks per 
inch used, the more gloss the fabric 
will possess when finished. 

ANALYSIS. 

"Width of warp in reed, 37.5; width 
of fabric finished, 36; ends per inch, 
84; ends in warp, 3,050; 1,400 x 2, 
reed. 



510 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 
per cent; weight of cloth per yard 
trom loom, 2.5 ounces; weight of cloth 
per yard finished, 3 ounces; warp 
yarn, l-30s combed peeler. 

Filling, l-40s, 84 picks per inch 
from loom. 

Picks per inch finished, 84. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Percaline is woven in the gray on 
high running speed looms with four 
or eight harnesses. When four har- 
nesses are used, the warp is generally 
drawn in the following order: 1, 3, 2, 
4. (See Fig. 2A.) When eight har- 
nesses are used, it is drawn straight. 
(See Fig. 2B.) Fig. 1A.: design for 
skip draw four harnesses. Fig. IB: 
design for eight harnesses straight 
draw. 

The automatic loom would be about 
the best loom to use, principally on 
account of production obtained with 
these looms per weaver. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing process will include 
from the time the cloth comes from 
the loom until it is ready for use. 

The first process to which the cloth 
is subjected is to boil it off, that is, 
by soaking it in boiling water; this 
process partially relieves it from any 
foreign matter that it may have gath- 
ered during the weaving and at the 
same time prepares it for the bleach- 
ing process. It is then dyed. 

After the fabric is dyed, it is sized 
In order to stiffen it and also heighten 
the gloss on the cloth. 

After the sizing, it is ready for the 
calender. In order to still more add 
to the gloss on the face of the fabric, 
the cloth is usually doubled length- 
wise, or sometimes two pieces are 
placed together, back to back, and run 
through the calender at the same time. 
Before the cloth reaches the calender 
rolls it passes between two perforat- 
ed steam pipes, which wet the cloth 
considerably, then between the rolls 
of the calender, which are well heat- 
ed and tightly set together. The 
above-mentioned processes produce 
what is termed a moory finish. 



The cloth after it comes from the 
calender is lapped on small boards, 
after which it is ready for the market. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The carding and spinning particu- 
lars applicable to the manufacture of 
percale, given in the last article, may 
be followed also with reference to per- 
caline, with a few minor changes: 
Thus the count of the filling yarn is 
to be 40s, instead of 36s. The filling 
and warp yarns are both carded peel- 
er, and the cut roving is put through 
a special process that takes out the 
twist and delivers it in a fluffy state. 
This is then put through a picker, 
which forms it into a lap, and these 
laps are dealt with as before describ- 
ed. All laps weighing over 35% 
pounds or under 34% pounds should 
be run through the finisher picker 
again, being mixed in with the other 
laps in the proportion of one re-run 
lap to three regular laps. This is done 
so that the weight will not vary from 
the standard. At the cards a 26 or 27 
inch doffer should be used if possible, 
the larger the better, and the produc- 
tion should be 650 pounds per week of 
60 hours. The sliver for both the warp 
and filling yarn is put through three 
processes of drawing, and the roving 
to make the warp yarn through two 
processes of fly frames. The follow- 
ing size mixing may be used at the 
slasher: Water, 100 gallons; corn- 
starch, 50 pounds; tallow, three 
pounds; turpentine, one gill; boil 
three minutes. The slubber roving for 
filling yarn is put through three proc- 
esses of fly frames. We will consider 
that it is taken to the ring spinning 
room, where the frame for spinning 
40s would be as follows: 

Gauge of frame, 2% inches, diameter 
of ring, 1| inches; length of traverse, 
5y 2 inches; speed of spindles, 8,800; 
twist per inch, 23.72. 

After being spun, the filling yarn 
is treated so that it is delivered to 
the weave room in a moist state. This 
is accomplished by different methods 
in different mills, some using a steam 
chest, while others simply immerse 
the filling in water just before it is 
carried to the weave room. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



511 



Dyeing Particulars. 
PEARL. 
One-quarter per cent diamine dark 
blue B.; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

LIGHT TAN. 

One-quarter per cent diamine fast 

yellow B.; V s per cent diamine brown 

G * 1-16 per cent diamine black BH. ; 

lu'per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 

soda. ^„„ T 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-quarter per cent tetrazo brown 
R • ^4 per cent tetrazo yellow M.; % 
per cent tetrazo black N.; 10 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
One-eigbth per cent diamine sky 
blue FF.; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per 
cent sal soda. 

LILAC. 
One-quarter per cent tetrazo chlo- 
rine lilac B.; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 
per cent sal soda. 

ROSE. 
One-quarter per cent tetrazo chlo- 
rine rose; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 
per cent sal soda. 

MEDIUM BKOWN. 
One per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 
1 per cent diamine brown B.; % per 
cent diamine black BH.; 20 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
ROYAL BLUE. 
Three per cent tetrazo brilliant blue 
BB.; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 

sal soda. 

PINK. 

One- quarter per cent tetrazo pink 
GGN.; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per 
cent sal soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Two per cent diamine blue B.; 3 per 
cent diamine black BH.; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
DARK GREEN. 
Five per cent diamine green B.; 1 
per cent diamine black HW.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
DARK BROWN. 
Two per cent diamine fast yellow 
B.; 3 per cent diamine brown B.; % 



per cent diamine black BH.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 
WINE. 
Three per cent diamine Bordeaux 
B.; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 

SCARLET. 
Three per cent diamine scarlet B.; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 

soda. 

BLACK. - 

Fifteen per cent immedial brilliant 
black; 15 per cent sulphide sodium; 6 
per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

4-*-+ 



BEDFORD CORD 

Bedford cord is a name given to one 
of the most popular types of fabrics, 
the distinguishing effect of which is a 
line stripe and raised cord effect run- 
ning lengthwise of the cloth, the cords 
being of more or less prominence. 

Figs. 1, 3 and 6 show examples. 

They are a standard type and are 
made in a large variety of weights. 
The cords vary in width from about 
l-20th to x /4 inch. Although usually 




Fig. 1. 

made with cotton, the name refers to 
the weave rather than to a combina- 
tion of weave and material. Sample 
for Fig. 3 is a worsted bedford cord. 

The face effect of bedford cords is 
generally plain, although twill face 
cords are occasionally made. 

Fig. 1 illustrates a plain faced bed- 
ford cord, made with weave Fig. 2. 



512 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



This is the simplest type of bedford 
cord weave, but is not used to any 
extent on account of some of the 
picks, A and B, bringing widely dif- 
fering proportions of warp and filling 
on the face from picks C and D, mak- 
ing it hard on a loom. 

Fig. 3 illustrates a sample made with 



The advisability of using this type 
of weave in preference to that shown 
in Fig. 2 is in the fact that it allows 
the ends or one cord to be raised out 
of the way, while the other is weav- 
ing plain, and the loom is allowed to 
raise the same number of ends on each 
pick. . 



fflQBDBaBOBaC 



Fig. 2. 



DBOBOBOBOBCMI •!■■■■■■■■■■■ 
fflDBDBDBDBaBD©DBBBBBBBBBB 
DfflBBBBBBBBBBDfflDBDBDBaBaB 

fflUBBBBBBBBBBaUBDBDBaBDBa 

Fig. 4. 



DBSBaBBHBBHBBnBDEBDDBDnanDBDDB 

£<oa::BB::aa::aBCB*OBQQanoBOOBDO 

DfflDDBQDBODBaaBOfflBEBBHBB!3BBHB 

ffiDBDDBaDBDDBCCffinaaBBaBB3BB3B 

Fig", e. 



Fig. 4. This shows practically the 
same effect as Fig. 1, but has been 
made with an easier weave. 

Figs. 4 and 5 will serve to show the 
two principal forms of construction 
of bedford cords. 

Fig. 4 is complete on 24 ends and 4 
picks. One repeat of this weave 
makes two ribs or cords in Fig. 3. The 




Fig. 3. 

line or cut effect is formed by ends 1 
and 2, and 13 and 14, shown in type, a 
These ends weave plain throughout 
and have twice as many interlacings 
as the other ends in each repeat. 

The remainder of the ends weave 
plain on one-half of the picks only, 
and are then raised out of the way 
and the filling allowed to float under 
them for the other two picks, the 
cords alternating so that when one 
rib is weaving plain, the same pick of 
filling is floating under the next one. 
The plain picks of the succeeding re- 
peat slide over and cover these long 
floats of filling, making the face ef- 
fect plain and yet striped. 



As every two picks of filling inter- 
lace only with the ends of every alter- 
nate rib, and float at the back of the 
next one, solid lines of color length- 
wise of the piece may be made by ar- 
ranging the warp yarns of one rib of 
one color and those of the other rib of 
a different color, and picking the fill- 
ing 2 and 2, so that each color inter- 
laces only with the same color of 
warp. A variety of colored stripes 
may be made by combining the types 
Figs. 2 and 4, varying the number and 
sizes of sections as desired. 

To get extra weight without altering 
the appearance of the face, extra warp 
yarns, termed wadding ends, are in- 




Fig. 6. 

serted between the face weave and the 
filling floating at the back of the rib. 
When these wadding ends are coarse, 
they give a pronounced rounded ap- 
pearance to the cord, more so than if 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



513 



several ends of finer yarns are used. 
Wadding ends are generally coarser 
than the face ends. 

Fig. 5 illustrates the type of weave 
used when a bedford cord is required 
with a fine face and a. heavy weight, 
or where a well-rounded cord is de- 

aBDBnBHBGBDHHHnaDBDESnBaBDaaaHBD'auaS* 

n-SOBaBaBaBaaLBOBBBaBCBQBaBnaCaBBOBuB 
fflD«BCD«C»MOBCMMaiBO«DBDnilBaBQBB\OBU 
DBBBDaaBBBDBGBBBOBa^BBDBOBBBGaaflBBGB 

BDBaBDBBBnBaaBBOBasnBBBGHDBBaDBnBaBD 

Fig. 7. 

sired. Ends shown with type □ are 
wadding ends. These are always rais- 
ed when the filling is floating at the 
back of the cord and depressed when 
the filling is interweaving with the 
face ends. 

Fig. 6 illustrates a bedford cord with 
a twill weave on the face. The twill 



quired per inch. They are usually wo- 
ven with a coarse reed in a fairly 
heavy single box loom. One warp only 
is required unless the counts of the 
wadding and face yarns differ. 

The question of dividing the two 
cuttings ends with the reed or of put- 
ting them in the same dent depends 
upon the effect desired and the qual- 
ity of the fabric. The stripes may be 
varied in width as desired, or the 
sizes of the different ribs in one pat- 
tern may vary within certain limits. 

The construction of samples for 
Figs. 1, 3 and 6 are as follows: 

For Fig. 1, 96 sley, 88 pick; for Fig. 
3, 116 sley, 108 pick; for Fig. 6, 220 
sley, 156 pick. 

No. 6 contains 132 face ends and 88 
wadding ends per inch, making a to- 
tal of 220. 




hj : ? ■ iee---ee-^-- ; -eb 



nwaannnrinn^BBn^aDDDD^DCHBcnBGDCBi- 1 ' ee ee see ' ee" ~ ee ifliEBBS§ 
e -BnanGaBDcEBaaGGnQCB-cSSabcoaEGP' ee < ee; ee ' sn> -es^bhhbbb 

laBg§BassEag=!EE;: ee ee :ee H^s-DBBDQicoaQDaQaHQDBDaDDQQQBBBi 

Fig. 8. 



runs to the right in one rib and to the 
left in the next one, making a herring- 
bone effect. Fig. 7 shows the face 
weave for Fig. 6, ends 1 and 2 and 19 
and 20 being the cutting ends. 

The weave for this particular sam- 
ple has been made on the principle 
shown in Fig. 2, but weave Fig. 8 
would be preferable. In this figure 
type ■■:> indicate cutting ends; s wad- 
ding ends; m and solid black type face 
cord ends; solid type and * show the 
face weave. The wadding ends would 
be drawn 2 in each heddle. There are 
12 of these in each rib. 

The cutting ends in Fig. 6 might 
have been arranged to work 2 and 2, 
instead of plain, because of the large 
number of picks per inch and the rel- 
ative amount of interlacing of the oth- 
er ends. When the face weave is plain, 
two plain ends should separate the 
ribs. 

Bedford cords are firm fabrics, 
somewhat heavy on account of the 
large number of ends and picks re- 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machinery for the manufacture 
of bedford cord will be found in the 
second and third division of mills, as 
given in a previous lesson. There are 
generally three counts of yarn used 
for each piece of cloth, one for filling, 
one for the warp, and one for the 
cords. These counts vary according to 
the quality of the fabric being made, 
generally several different qualities 
being made under one management. 
The counts of yarn which will be con- 
sidered in this article as composing 
the cloth will be number 40s for warp, 
number 60s for filling and number 20s 
for the cord or wadding ends. These 
counts are made up of a good quality 
of cotton of about 1J to 1^4 inch sta- 
ple. At the mixing bins the waste 
sliver up to the slubber is mixed in as 
collected, which should be done at reg- 
ular intervals during the day. The one 
in charge of the picker room should 
see that too much waste is not being 
made and also that the sliver is well 



514 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



torn to pieces before being put into 
the mixing. A good way to check how 
much waste is being made is to have 
the picker man weigh it as it comes in 
and at the end of every week give his 
list to the overseer. In this way the 
overseer may be sure that he is get- 
ting a correct list of the amount of 
waste being made and can act accord- 
ingly. The raw stock is put through 
either two or three processes of pick- 
ing, 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 

being generally used, although the 
particulars for three processes will be 
given here. The raw stock is fed to 
the hopper and from here passes under 
a beater, the speed of which is 1,050 
revolutions per minute. From herei it 
is conveyed to the feed rolls of the 
breaker picker, in a fluffy state, by an 
endless lattice. The feed rolls con- 
dense it and present the sheet of cot- 
ton to the action of the beater, which 
is generally of the rigid type, having 
either two or three arms. If a two- 
armed beater is used, the speed should 
be about 1,500 revolutions per minute 
and if a three-bladed beater, the speed 
should be proportionately less. The 
total weight of the lap at the front 
should be about 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap. These are put up at the 
intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 
1. The speed of this beater should be 
about 1,400 revolutions per minute, the 
total weight of the lap at the front 
being 35 pounds or a 14% -ounce lap. 
These laps are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at 
this point that the 

CUT-ROVING WASTE 
is mixed in, it having first been made 
fnto a lap after passing through a spe- 
cial process, in the proportion of one 
lap roving waste to three laps raw 
stock. The speed of this beater, if of a 
two-bladed rigid type, should be about 
1,350 revolutions per minute, which 
gives the cotton passing through it 
about 40 beats per inch. The total 
weight of the laps at the front should 
be about 35 pounds or a 12%-ounce 
lap. A variation of half a pound either 
side of standard is allowed. Laps with 
a variation of more than the above 



should be treated as given in a pre- 
vious article. The laps are put up at 
the card, the draft of which should not 
be less than 100. The speed of the 
top flats should be one complete revo 
lution every 45 minutes. The wire 
fillet used should be of medium fine- 
ness, about number 110 for cylinder 
and number 120 for the doffer and tor 
flats. 

THE WEIGHT OF SLIVER 

at the front should weigh 65 grains 
per yard, the production for the 40s 
and 60s yarn being 650 pounds per 
week of 60 hours, and for the 20s yarr 
750 pounds per week. This sliver is 
put through three processes of draw- 
ing, six ends up, the revolutions per 
minute of the front roll being 400 at 
the finisher drawing. The weight at 
the finisher drawing should be 70 
grains per yard. The drawing should 
be sized three times a day, and if the 
variation is more than one grain per 
yard, the draft gear should be chang- 
ed to keep the drawing at standard 
weight. The drawing sliver is put 
through the slubber and made into .50 
hank roving. 

FLY FRAMES. 

The roving for 40s and 60s yarn is 
run through three processes of fly 
frames and for 20s is run through two 
processes. For 60s yarn the different 
hanks at each process are as follows: 
First intermediate, 1.50; second, 4; 
jack, 12 hank. For 40s yarn the de- 
tails are as follows: First 1.40; second, 
3.40; jack, 8. For 20s yarn: First, 1.50; 
second 4.50. The warp yarns are 
frame spun and for 40s use a frame 
the same as given in a previous les- 
son. For 20s use a frame having a 
gauge of 2| inches ; diameter of ring, 2 
inches; length of traverse, 7 inches. 

The filling yarn may be either mule 
or ring spun; if the latter use a frame 
having a gauge of 2% inches; a diam- 
eter of ring, 13 inches; length of tra- 
verse, 5% inches; revolutions per min- 
ute of spindles, 8,000. The warp yarn 
is put through the spooler, warper and 
slashing machines and then is ready 
for the loom. 

A great many mills comb their fill- 
ing for weaving bedford cords. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



515 



Dyeing Particulars. 

SLATE. 

Two per cent immedial black NB.; 

2 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 

soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

PEARL. 

One-half per cent immedial direct 
blue B.; % per cent immedial black 
NB.; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 
per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

BROWN. 

Three per cent immedial cutch O.; 5 
per cent immedial brown RR. ; % per 
cent immedial black NB.; 9 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

BLACK. 
Fifteen per cent immedial black 
NN. ; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 
per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial dark green 
B. ; 1 per cent immedial yellow D.; 9 
per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Four per cent immedial indone B.; 
4 per cent immedial indone R. ; 8 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

RED. 

Six per cent benzo fast red 4B.; 30 
per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

PINK. 
One per cent erika pink; 2 per cent 
sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 
SKY BLUE. 
Four per cent tetrazo sky blue F.; 2 
per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

IMPERIAL PURPLE. 
On a tannine and tartar emetic mor- 
dant. Dye 2 per cent methyl violet 
2 R. 

*-♦♦ 



CHINTZ 



Chintz is a fine, soft, cotton fabric, 
printed with elaborate designs of flow- 



ers and foliage in several colors. The 
fabric is used principally for house- 
hold purposes such as lambrequins, 
coverings, etc. It is also utilized for 
such purposes as masquerade dresses 
and the like. 

Chintz is but a plain woven fabric, 
elaborately ornamented with designs 
by means of the printing machine, 
several different colors being employ- 
ed. From this point of view we will 
consider the fabric. 

There is practically no combination 
of colors that may not be used for the 
ornamentation of a fabric of this de- 
scription. However, the high-colored 
designs are most popular. Following 
are 

POINTS TO CONSIDER 

in planning a design for chintz, also 
colors to use. In the first place it is 
necessary to have a clear idea of what 
the main characteristics of the design 
are to be, before the work of arrange 
ment is begun. The character of the 
design should be influenced largely by 
the purposes the fabric is intended 
for; this brings in the question of fit- 
ness, which is the application of a cer- 
tain class of design to certain materi- 
als. It is evident that the style of de- 
sign that would be suitable for a floor 
covering would be entirely unsuitable 
for a printed cotton fabric. The con- 
sideration of style is a subject that the 
designer is bound to be governed by, 
simply because the designs are for a 
commercial purpose; consequently in 
planning a design, the style, scale and 
character of the design, the material 
it is to be applied to, and its purposes 
should be understood by the designer. 
Chintz is 

A PURELY ORNAMENTAL FABRIC. 

They, therefore, may be rich, 
both in colors and design. In Figure 1 
we give an idea of the character of 
design used for fabrics of this descrip- 
tion. The ground may be a light shade 
of blue, the leaves and stems in two 
shades of green, while the flowers 
may have three shades of red grad- 
uating from pink to dark red; a hap- 
py blending of color is essential to 
the well-being of a design. 



516 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ANALYSIS. 

Inches. 

"Width of warp in reed 36y 2 

Width of fabric finished 35% 

Ends per inch finished 72 

Ends in warp 2,556 

Selvage 24 

Total ends in warp 2,580 

Reed 1,250x2 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 5 per 
cent; weight of fabric finished, 1 y 2 ounces 
per yard. 

Warp yarn 1-44 cotton. 

Filling 56 picks — 1-80 cotton. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Chintz is usually woven on high run- 
ning speed looms. The warp is drawn 
in on eight harnesses. The warp yarn 
is well sized so as to avoid breakages 
of the warp in the weaving. 

FINISHING. 

The fabric, after it comes from the 
loom, is sent to the printing house, 
where it is boiled off and bleached 
preparatory to the printing operation; 
chintz is not dyed; all the colors are 
applied by means of the color rolls in 
the printing machine. Several rolls are 
required, each roll having a separate 
portion of the design and likewise a 
separate color. 

After the printing, the fabric is 
passed through a calender press, the 
rolls of which are well heated and 
tightly set, which gives the glazed fin 
ish which the fabric possesses. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which chintz is com- 
posed are made in mills having the 
second division equipment of ma- 
chinery. The yarns which make up 
the sample under description are as 
follows: filling yarn No. 80s and warp 
yarn 44s. The filling yarn is made of 
good cotton of 1 1 -inch staple. This 
is put through a bale breaker, as has 
been previously described. Either two 
or three processes of picking may be 
used, many overseers claiming the 
two-process method to be the better. 

The raw stock, after being allowed 
to stand in the mixing bin as long as 
possible to dry out, is put into the 
hopper of the opener, and after being 
lifted up by the spiked apron comes in 
time under the action of the beater. 
This beater is provided with four 
arms, the blades of which are com- 



posed of leather. The speed of this 
beater for this kind of stock is 1,000 
revolutions per minute. 

THE RAW STOCK 

is then passed to the breaker picker 
by an endless lattice. This lattice 
should be varnished frequently so as 
to make it smooth. This not only ap- 
plies to this lattice, but to all lattices 
in the picker room. The feed rolls of 
this machine compress the cotton into 
a condensed sheet and it is struck 
lrom these rolls by a beater. This is 
generally of a rigid type, having either 
two or three arms; if of two-blade 
type it makes about 1,500 revolutions 
per minute. The laps at the head end 
weigh 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. 
These laps are put up at the interme- 
diate and doubled 4 into 1. The speed 
of this beater is about 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute, the total weight of 
the lap being 37 pounds or a 12-ounce 
Lp. These laps are put up at the fin- 
isher picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is 
at this point that the cut roving is 
mixed in, as has been described in a 
previous article. The speed of this 
beater is 1,350 revolutions per minute 
if of a rigid two-bladed type; if the 
beater has three blades it rotates pro- 
portionatel/ slower. The total weight 
of a lap at the front is 39 pounds or a 
12-ounce lap. 

THE EVENNESS OF WORK. 

Look out to see that the eveners on 
all the pickers are in proper working 
order, for remember the greater part 
of the evenness of a lap depends upon 
this part of the picker. See that the 
drafts are properly directed and of the 
right strength to do the most good. 
Keep the fly well cleaned out from 
under the machines and don't be afraid 
of oil, but get it in the proper place. 
Be sure and have everything neat and 
clean. The laps are put up at the 
card. It has always been a bone of 
contention whether it is proper to use 
a heavy lap and slow speed or light 
carding and higher speed. Heavy 
carding means low drafts, and light 
carding, so-called, high drafts. For 
this lesson light-weight carding will be 
used. The draft of the card should 
be 115, which gives a 45-grain sliver. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



517 




618 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



The speed of the flats should be one 
complete revolution every 40 minutes. 
The speed of the licker is 350 revolu- 
tions per minute. Strip three times 
daily and clean thoroughly twice a 
day. Keep front of card free from fly 
waste all the time. The production of 
the card for a week of 60 hours is 550 
pounds. This is put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, 

the weight of the sliver at the finish- 
er being 60 grains per yard. The 
speed of the front roll is 400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The top rolls of a 
drawing frame should always be kept 
well varnished, the leather being free 
from flutes, ridges, nicks; in fact, they 
should be in perfect shape. The draw- 
ing sliver is next put up at the slub- 
ber and made into .55 hank roving. 
This is put through three processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving at each 
process being as follows: First, 1.50 
hank; second, 4. 80, hank; fine or jack, 
16 hank. This roving may be taken 
to either the mule or ring spinning 
room. If to the latter, use a frame 
having the following particulars for 
spinning 80s yarn: Gauge of frame, 
2% inches; diameter of ring, 1%; 
length of traverse, 5 inches; revolu- 
tions per minute of spindles, 7,400; 
twist per inch, 29.07. The 

YARN AFTER BEING TREATED 
in some manner to make it damp, is 
carried to the weave room. What has 
been said of the cotton for the filling 
yarn may also apply to the warp yarn 
with the following exceptions: In the 
picker room, length of staple, 1| 
inches; weight of lap at finisher pick- 
er, 40 pounds. In card room at the 
cards, draft not over 105; speed of 
flats, one revolution in 50 minutes. 
Production 675 to 700 pounds, at draw- 
ing frame, weight of sliver, 70 grains 
per yard; at slubber a .50 hank rov- 
ing, which is put through three proc- 
esses of fly frames, the hank at each 
being as follows: First, 1.50 hank; 
second. 4 hank; fine, 10 hank. This is 
carried to the ring spinning room and 
made into 40s yarn on a frame with 
the following particulars: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, iy 2 
inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; 



revolutions per minute of spindles, 10,- 
000; twist per inch, 29.65. The yarn 
is then spooled, beam warped, and 
these are run through the slasher, 
where the requisite number of ends 
is run on a warp beam at the head 
end. A good size mixing is as fol- 
lows: Water, 100 gallons; potato 
starch. 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 
pounds; soap (white), iy 2 pounds; 
paraffine wax about 1 pound. 

Printing Particulars. 

The colors for this style of goods are 
mostly light, bright shades. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
Two ounces methyl blue B.; 1 pint 
acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 2 pints 
water; 6 pints gum water, 1 : 1; | 
pint acetic acid tannic acid solution. 
1 : 1. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

One and one.-half ounces brilliant 
green crystals; 1 pint acetic acid, 10 
degrees Tw. ; 2 pints water; 5 pints 
gum water, 1 : 1; 14 pint acetic acid 
tannic acid solution, 1 : 1. 
LIGHT PINK. 

One and one-half ounces rhodamine 
5 G.; 3 pints water; iy 2 pints acetic 
acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth 
solution, 70-1,000; y 2 pint acetic acid 
tannine solution, 1 : 1. 
RED. 

Six ounces rhoduline red B.; 2 pints 
water; iy 2 pints acetic acid, 10 de- 
grees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; 
iy 2 pints acetic acid tannine solution 

1 : 1. 

LIGHT MAUVE. 

One-half ounce methyl violet 6 B.; 

2 pints water; \y 2 pints acetic acid, 
10 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 
1 : 1; .34 pint acetic acid tannine so- 
lution, 1 : 1. 

ROYAL BLUE. 
Six and one-half ounces Victoria 
blue B. ; \y 2 pints acetic acid, 10 de- 
grees Tw.; 2% pints water; 6 pints 
gum water, 1 : 1; \y 2 pints acetic acid 
tannine solution, 1 : 1. 

LIGHT YELLOW. 
Five ounces duramine II.; \\ pints 
acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 134 pints 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



519 



water; 6 pints gum water; 1:1; 1 X A 
pints acetic and tannine solution 
1 : 1. 

ROSE. 

Four ounces rhodamine 6 G.; 4^ 
pints water; 3 pints acetic acid; 9 
degrees Tw.; 3% pints tragacanth so- 
lution, 70-1,000; 1 pint acetic acid tan- 
nine solution, 1 : 1. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
Six ounces Bismarck brown G. ; 2 
pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; % 
pint glycerine, 45 degrees Tw. ; 1 x k 
pints water; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; 
1 pint acetic acid tannine solution, 
1 : 1. 

LIGHT OLIVE. 

One pint of the light yellow color; 1 
pint of light brown color; % pint light 
green color; well mixed and strained 
through a cloth. With different pro- 
portions of these colors any shade can 
be obtained. 

These colors are well mixed in a 
tub or copper pan, strained through a 
cloth, and printed in a printing ma- 
chine. The pieces are dried, steamed 
one hour, without pressure, passed 
through a bath of tartar emetic, soap- 
ed at 90 degrees F., washed and dried. 

The pieces are then run through a 
starch mangle and starched, then cal- 
endered to finish required. 



ORGANDIE (Plain and Fignred) 

An organdie may be defined as a 
very fine translucent muslin, used ex- 
clusively for "dress goods. 

The fabric is made in a variety of 
qualities as regards the counts of 
yarns used. This naturally influences 
the number of ends and picks per inch 
in the fabric. The fabric is also made 
in a variety of widths, ranging from 18 
to 60 inches. 

The fabric, as already mentioned, is 
used exclusively for dress goods. The 
plain organdie is very popular in pure 
white or bleached, although considera- 
ble quantities are dyed in solid colors 
of light shades, such as pale blue and 
various pinks, while the figured organ- 
die is usually bleached, then printed 
with small floral designs. The printed 



design is usually in from two to four 
colors and in delicate shades in con- 
formity with the material. 

The design itself is also quite deli- 
cate. 

In a design for a fabric of this char- 
acter, the scale of the pattern should 
not be too large. It should not ex- 
ceed iy 2 inches in the repeating of it, 
as the folds of the dress and the nu- 
merous seams would destroy the effect 
of the repeat if it were much larger. 

The accompanying sketch shows a 
design for the fabric in question; the 




design shows a rose spray rendered in 
a natural manner. A color scheme for 
the same would be to have the flowers 
pink or yellow, while the leaves and 
stems may be in green; this against a 
white ground should give a pleasing 
effect. A delicate design and color 
scheme are essential for this kind of 
fabric. Organdie, considered in rela- 
tion to cost, as a wearing material is 
quite an expensive fabric; however, 
the retail price apparently seems to 
disprove this fact. Our reason for 
the statement that the fabric is not an 
inexpensive material is that it has a 



520 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



finish peculiar to itself, so that when 
subjected to soap and water it will 
not have the same appearance as be- 
fore. It loses its crisp feeling entirely; 
consequently an organdie is worn by 
many until soiled, then discarded. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 32 inches; 
width of fabric finished. 30% inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 76; ends in 
warp, 2,440; ends per inch finished, 80. 

Reed, 1,400x2. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 
per cent; weight of fabric, about 15 
yards to one pound. 

Warp yarn, 1-80 combed Sea Island. 
Filling, l-20s combed Sea Island; 88 
picks per inch. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Organdie is but a plain woven fab- 
ric. The ornamentation of tbe figured 
fabric is effected by means of the 
printing press; consequently any 
smooth running high speed loom may 
be used in the weaving of this cloth. 
However, as the Northrop loom with 
warp stop motion would answer best, 
the warp may be drawn in straight on 
eight harnesses; in using a consider- 
able number of ends per inch, it is safe 
to use at least eight harnesses, so as 
to avoid heddle chafing. 

The warp preparatory to weaving is 
given a fair sizing with white gum in 
order to give it strength. 
FINISHING. 

The fabric is stiffened by sizing it 
with such ingredients as dextrine, dul 
cine, albumen, casein, etc., after which 
it is run through the calender, whicl 
slightly glazes the surface of the fab- 
ric, thus completing the finishing proc- 
ess. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 
The yarns of which organdies arr 
composed require the equipment of 
machinery found in the second or 
third division of mills, as given in f 
previous lesson. This class of goods 
requires a very fine grade of cotton. 
and generally both warp and filling 
yarns are made of combed stock. Thf 
counts of yarn vary, according to the 
grade of goods to be made. In this 



article it will be considered that the 
make-up of the cloth is as follows: 80s 
warp and 120s filling yarn. These are 
made from Sea Island stock of 11 to 
11-inch staple. Sea Island cotton as a 
whole requires just as little picking as 
possible and still get the dirt out. Sea 
Island cotton is generally put through 
an opener and one process of picking 
although some overseers use two proc 
esses. This stock is not put through 
the bale breaker, but is 

GENERALLY MIXED BY HAND. 
If any bales are found which are not 
up in grade and staple they should b 
placed one side and not put into the 
mixing. The mixing should be mad 
from several bales at once, so as to ge 
the mixing as even as possible. A 
this point the sliver waste from thf 
machines up to the slubber is mixe 
in. The sliver should be pulled int< 
short lengths so that it will not be s 
apt to become wound around the pin 
beater of the opener. The hoppc 
should be kept more than half full 
The cotton is passed from this m; 
chine directly to the finisher picker 
the apron of this picker is divided up 
into yard lengths and the loose cotton 
is spread evenly over it. About 10 
ounces to the yard is the weight used. 
The beater for this class of goods is 
generally of a rigid two-bladed type, 
the speed of it being less than those 
that have been previously given. The 
speed of the beater is about 1,200 rev- 
olutions per minute, which gives the 
cotton of this length passing through 
the picker about 29 beats per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the 
front of picker is 30 pounds, or a 10- 
ounce lap. The usual points that have 
been previously given should be look- 
ed out for and in addition the 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 
should be watched to see that it is 
not putting neps into the cotton. These 
laps are put up at the card, the draft 
of which should be high, not less 
than 125 and on some Sea Island 
stock the draft runs as high as 180. 
The card wire fillet used on the cylin- 
der should be No. 120s (English 
count) and for the doffer and flats 
130s. The flats should be speeded up 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



521 



to take out more flat waste or, in 
other words, the card with 110 flats 
should make one revolution every 35 
minutes. The flats are speeded up by- 
lagging the flat pulley on the main 
cylinder shaft. Close settings should 
be used and these should be gone over 
every time the card is ground, which 
should be once every month. Grind 
lightly. Strip three times a day and 
keep the cards clean, especially the 
fronts. The weight of the sliver at 
the front should be about 45 grains 
per yard and the production about 225 
to 300 pounds per week of 60 hours 
Be sure that the feed plate is set at 
the proper distance from the licker-in. 
so that the staple will not be broken. 
On most makes of cards the licker-in 
is speeded too high for this class of 
cotton, and better results will be ob- 
tained if the speed is dropped to 275 
and not more than 300 revolutions 
per minute. It is claimed that a high 
speed of the licker-in tends to put 
neps into the cotton of long staple. 

THE LICKER-IN 
should be speeded so as to tear the 
sheet or lap apart and take out the 
seed, etc., left by the picker. The cot- 
ton is next taken to the sliver lap ma 
chines and made into a lap. Th' 
weight of the lap should be about 300 
grains per yard. The doublings at 
the sliver lap are 14 into 1 when 6- 
head 9-inch lap combers are used, or 
20 into 1 when 8-head 10%-inch laps 
are used. The laps from the sliver lap 
machine are doubled 6 into 1 at the 
ribbon lap machine, the weight of laps 
per yard being 280 grains. These laps 
are put up at the comber. The dou- 
blings at the comber depend on how 
many heads it has. For the past two 
or three years the comber builders 
have sold practically nothing but 8- 
head combers, so we will consider that 
the mill is equipped in this manner. 
The doublings would then be 8 into 1. 
For this class of goods from 22 to 25 
per cent waste is taken out and the 
weight of the sliver at the front is 48 
grains. This is put through 
two processes of drawing, the 
weight at the front of the finisher 
drawing being about 60 grains per 
yard. 



Be sure to keep the top leather rolls 
well varnished and in good condition. 
See that all parts of the machine are 
working properly. 

The sliver is next put up to the slub- 
ber and made into .80 hank roving. In 
some mills the top leathers are var- 
nished and in addition to this, on long- 
staple stock, larger top rolls are 
used. 

This roving is put through three 
processes of fly frames for 120s filling 
yarn, the hank roving at each process 
being as follows: At the first inter- 
mediate 2.25 hank, at the second inter- 
mediate 6.50 hank and at the fine 
frame 24 hank. On this hank roving 
it is a good plan to either have self- 
weighted rolls on second intermediate 
and fine frames or run them without 
weights, all the weight being on the 
back top roll. The roving is then 
spun on a mule into 120s. 

The slubber roving for the warp 
yarn is put through three processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving being as 
follows: At the first, 2.25; at the sec- 
ond, 5 hank, and the jack, 16 hank 
Keep the top leather rolls in good 
condition and watch the traverse 
motion. Look out for twist and don't 
get too much tension, so as to puK 
the roving when it is between the 
boss of the front roll and the flyer, as 
this tends to cause uneven roving. 
Don't let the hands cut the roving 
from the bobbin, and weigh the cut 
roving. This roving is taken to the 
ring spinning room and spun into 80s 
yarn on a frame having the following 
particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% in- 
ches; diameter of ring. 11 inches; 
length of traverse, 5*4 inches; twist 
per inch, 39.08; speed of spindles, 9,- 
600. From here it passes through the 
spooler and warper, and the beams 
for this machine are put up at the 
slasher, and after passing through 
this machine the required number of 
ends are run on to a warp at the front 
end. 

A GOOD-SIZED MIXING 

for 80s yarn, if sley and pick are high, 
is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; 
potato starch, 70 to 75 pounds; tallow, 
7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; 
soap (white), 2 pounds. Boil 2 hours 



622 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



and let stand 10 hours before using 
Keep agitator running and keep size 
mixing almost at boiling point. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Following are dyeing particulars for 
organdie : 

PINK. 

Two ounces rhodamine pink 6 G.; 1 
qt. water; \y 2 pints acetic acid 90 de- 
grees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 
70 : 1,000; % pints acetic acid tannine 
solution .1 : 1. 

LIGHT YELLOW. 
Four ounces tbioflavine T.; 2 qt. 
water; \y 2 pints acetic acid, 6 degrees 
Tw.; 3 pints tragacantb solution .70: 
1.000; 1 pint acetic acid tannine solu- 
tion 1 : 1. 

PEACOCK BLUE. 

Four ounces turquoise blue G. ; 2 qt. 
water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees 
Tw. ; 3 pints tragacantb solution 70 
: 1,000; 1% pints acetic acid tannine 
solution 1 : 1. 

ROSE. 

Four ounces brilliant rboduline re'~ 
B.; 2 qt. water; iy 2 pints acetic acid, 
6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacantb so- 
lution 70 : 1,000; 1 X A pints acetic acid 
tannine solution 1 : 1. 

BLUE. 

Four ounces methylene blue B B.; 
2 qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 de- 
grees Tw. ; 2 pints tragacanth solu- 
tion; iy 2 pints acetic acid tannine so- 
lution 1 : 1. 

GREEN. 

Four ounces emerald green crystals; 
2y 2 pints water; 2 pints acetic acid, 
6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth 
solution 70 : 1,000; \y 2 pints acetic 
acid, tannic acid solution 1 : 1. 
LIGHT BROWN. 

Four ounces Bismarck brown B.; 1 
qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 de- 
grees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solu- 
tion 70 : 1.000; 1% pints acetic acid 
tannic acid solution 1 : 1. 
SAGE GREEN. 

Mix together one gallon green color; 
y«. gallon light yellow; y 2 gallon light 
brown. 



VIOLET. 

One ounce methyl violet 4 B.; 1 qt. 
water; \y 2 pints acetic acid, 6 degrees 
Tw.; o pints gum water 1:1;% pint 
acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. 

SLATE. 

One gallon blue color; 1 pint light 
yellow; well mixed with y 2 gallon 
tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000. 

The color is then strained through a 
cloth, and is ready to print. All the 
colors are well boiled in a copper pan 
and strained through a cloth. After 
the printing process, they are dried, 
steamed one hour without pressure, 
passed through a bath of tartar emet- 
ic, and soaped at 90 degrees F., rinsed 
and dried. The goods are starched and 
finished on a tenter frame. 



ALBATROSS CLOTH 

Cotton albatross cloth is a plain 
fabric made in imitation of a worsted 
fabric of the same name. It is light 
in weight, and is used principally for 
dress goods. It is sometimes used 
instead of bunting for railroad flags. 
The ends and picks per inch are few 
and the width of the cloth is narrow 

The items of construction for a cot- 
ton albatross are as follows: Warp, 
1,024 ends of No. 28s cotton; 16 ends 
have been allowed for selvages. 

Filling, 48 picks per inch of No. 36s 
cotton; 48 sley reed. 

Width in reed, 23 inches. 

Width finished. 21 inches. 

This fabric can be made very read- 
ily on an automatic loom, or on any 
of the light, fast running, single box 
cotton looms, four wire heddle har- 
nesses, or the regular twine harnesses, 
on the plain cotton loom only being 
required. If wire harnesses are used 
on a cam loom, the ends should be 
drawn through the heddles, 1, 3, 2, 4. 

Being considered a fair quality of 
cloth, it is necessary to match the 
pick when weaving it. 

The goods are finished by being 
burled, sheared, washed, singed, 
bleached, dyed, rinsed, dried and 
pressed; care being taken not to press 
them too hard. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



523 



The singeing process is sometimes 
omitted. 

Albatross cloth is generally sold in 
white, black, or solid colors, being 
piece-dyed. It is not used to any ex- 
tent for printing purposes. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for albatross cloth are 
made in mills having the equipment of 
machinery found in the second divi- 
sion of mills, as given in a previous 
lesson. For this article we will con- 
sider the filling yarn to be number 36s. 
This would be made of 1 1-16-inch 
staple American cotton. The warp 
yarn is 28s count and may be made 
from the same state and grade of cot- 
ton. Tbe mixing is done either by 
hand or by a bale breaker. The cot- 
ton, if mixed in the former manner, 
should be allowed to stand longer than 
if mixed by the latter method. This is 
to allow the cotton 

TO DRY OUT. 

At this point the good sliver waste 
from machines up to the slubber is 
mixed in, care being taken that the 
sliver is broken up into short lengths. 
The cotton is next put through an 
opener and either two or three proc- 
esses of picking (generally three). The 
opener hopper should be kept at least 
half full in order to always have an 
even amount of cotton fed to the 
breaker picker. This picker is gener- 
ally provided with a two-bladed, rigid 
beater, which rotates at a speed of 1,- 
400 revolutions per minute. The 

TOTAL v^EIGHT OF LAP 

at the front end of this picker is 
about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. 
These are put up at the intermediate 
picker and doubled four into one. This 
is also provided with a two-bladed, 
rigid type of beater, the speed being 
1,500 revolutions per minute. This 
style of beater is not always used, as 
will be noted later. The total weight 
of lap at the front is about 38 pounds 
or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put 
up at the finisher picker and doubled 
four into one. At this point the laps 
of cut-roving waste are mixed in in the 
proportion of one lap of cut roving to 



three laps of raw stock. The cut rov- 
ing is treated as before stated. 

THE FINISHER PICKER 
is equipped with either a rigid or what 
is called a pin beater. A great many 
mills are putting in this pin beater on 
stock up to 1 9-16 inch, claiming that 
the stock is more thoroughly cleaned. 
The speed of the pin beater (which 
has three arms) is higher than that 
of the rigid type, being 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute, whereas a two-arm- 
ed, rigid type would be run about 1,- 
450 revolutions per minute. The pin 
beater can be run at a greater speed 
because it does not strike the cotton 
a blow but rather tears it apart. If a 
two-bladed, rigid type of beater is 
used, it should be speeded up so as 
to give about 42 beats to each inch 
of cotton passing through. The total 
weight of lap at the front should be 
about 38 pounds. Laps varying more 
than one-half a pound either side of 
this standard should be run over 
again. Observe the general points 
about the picker room that have been 
given before. The laps are put up at 
the card. For this grade of goods 

THE DRAFT 
should not be less than 100. Use me- 
dium wire filled, i. e., No. 120s, for 
cylinder and No. 130s for doffer and 
flats. Speed of licker-in, 320, flats one 
revolution every 45 minutes; use 26- 
inch or large diameter doffer. Strip 
three times a day and grind cards all 
over once a month. Groove setting 
points frequently and watch the dead 
roller grinding wheel to see that it is 
straight. 

The weight of the sliver at the front 
should be about 65 grains, the pro- 
duction being 700 pounds per week of 
60 hours. The card sliver is put 
through three processes of drawing, 
the weight at the front being 70 grains 
per yard. 

WATCH THE CLEARERS 
to see that they are in proper condi- 
tion. Metallic rolls may be used on 
this class of work to great advantage. 
If leather top rolls are used, keep 
them up in good shape. The drawing 
sliver is run through the slubber and 
made into .55 hank roving. This jg 



624 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



put through three processes of fly 
frames for the filling yarn, the hank 
roving at each process being as fol- 
lows 1st, 1.50; 2d, 3.50, and jack, 8.25 
hank. 

We will consider that the filling 
yarn is taken to the ring spinning 
room, where it would be spun in 36s 
yarn on a frame having the following 
particulars: Gauge of frame. 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1| inches; 
length of traverse, 5y 2 inches; speed 
of spindles, 8,900 revolutions per min- 
ute. After being treated to make it 
damp, the filling is taken to the 
weave room and woven as given 
above. The roving for the warp yarn 
is put through two processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving at the first 
intermediate being 1.75 and at the 
jack 5.50 hank. This yarn is spun into 
28s yarn on a ring frame having the 
following particulars: Gauge of frame, 
21 inches; diameter of ring, 1| inches, 
length of traverse, 6% inches; speed 
of spindles, 9,700 revolutions per min- 
ute. The warp yarn is then taken 
to the spoolers; from here to the 
warpers, and the warps are put up at 
the slasher, the required number of 
ends being run upon a beam at the 
head end. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
LIGHT PINK. 
One-half pound Erika pink; 20 
pounds Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. 

SKY BLUE. 
One pound diamine sky blue FF.; 20 
pounds Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
One per cent katigen blue black B. ; 
3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent 
Glauber's; 1 per cent sodium sulphide. 

OLD GOLD 
Two per cent diamine catechine 3 
G.; 2 per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 
Ys per cent diamine black BH.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT SAGE GREEN. 
One-half per cent chloramine yel- 
low M.; 116 per cent benzo fast 
orange S.; % per cent benzo fast blue 



BN.; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent diamine brown 
B.; % per cent diamine fast yellow 
B.; ^4 Per cent diamine catechine 3 
G.; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

One per cent diamine sky blue FF. ; 
1 per cent diamine fast yellow FF.; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

PEARL. 

One-quarter per cent immedial di- 
rect blue B.; X A per cent immedial 
black NG.; % per cent sodium sul- 
phide; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent soda ash. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen per cent immedial black 
NN. ; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 
per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Twelve per cent thiogene blue B.; 
22 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BROWN. 

Ten per cent thiogene brown G. ; 6 
per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 

Ten per cent pyrogene green B.; 12 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

ROSE. 

Mordant for 200 gallons water; 3% 
pounds tannic acid; run through, on 
jig machine for one hour. Pass 
through a clean bath of two pounds 
tartar emetic for 200 gallons water 
half hour; wash and dye. Two pounds 
rhodamine 5 G. 

ROYAL BLUE. 

Mordant as rose. Dye, iy 2 per cent 
Victoria blue B. 

ROYAL PURPLE. 

Mordant as rose. Dye, f per cent 
methyl violet R. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



525 



TARLATAN 



Tarlatan is a fine, open, transparent 
muslin, somewhat similar to an organ- 
die in the feel and finish, though a 
much coarser fabric. The cheaper 
grade of tarlatan resembles mosquito 
netting. Mosquito netting, however, is 
a leno weave, while tarlatan is but a 
plain woven fabric. The goods are 
piece dyed and may be seen in any 
color; some are finished in pure white 



Fig. 1. Drawing-in Draft. 
(2 repeats.) 

or bleached. The fabric is used for va- 
rious purposes, the finer qualities for 
women's wear. The fabric is princi- 
pally used for draping and decorating 
purposes, for foundations for ladies' 
hats, for bunting around bird cages. 
for a twofold purpose — first to prevent 
the birdseed from being scattered to 
the floor, and second, as a decorative 
feature. Briefly we may say that the 
fabric is intended chiefly for draping 
and decorating purposes, especially 
the cheaper grades, the meshes of 
which are so open that hardly any 
lady would care to wear a dress made 
of it, unless she were anxious to ex- 
hibit the garments which she would 
be obliged to wear under it. The grade 
of tarlatan under consideration, of 
which an anaylsis will follow, is en- 
tirely too flimsy for a dress fabric. If 
the goods are taken between the 
thumb and forefinger with any degree 
of firmness and the surface of the 
fabric is drawn between them, the 
threads will readily give, or leave 
their original place. This would cer- 
tainly be a poor feature in a fabric in- 
tended for dress goods. The fabric is 
woven in comparatively wide widths; 
the coarser qualities are commonly 58 



inches in reed -including selvage. The 
selvage is about § of an inch, two ends 
in one heddle, while the body of 
goods is drawn one end in one hed- 
dle, and each end into a separate dent 
in the reed. 

□□■■ 

■■DC 

uamm 

■■DD 

aomm 

HDD 

aamm 

■■or 

Fig. 2. 

The goods in weaving have a tend- 
ency to roll up, that is, the selvages 
roll toward the middle of the fabric; 
this is overcome by holding out the 
selvages by means of the temple. The 
temple also prevents the chafing of 
the warp during weaving. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Any light-built loom with a compar- 
atively high running speed will answer 
for weaving tarlatans, providing it is 
wide enough in the reed space. The 
warp is usually drawn in on four har- 
nesses, in the following order: 1, 3, 2, 
4, the chain being built accordingly 
so as to give a plain weave. The warp 
is sized before it is put on the warp 
beam. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 58 inches. 
Finished width, 52^ inches; ends per 
inch finished, 20; picks per inch finish- 
ed, 18. 

Reed, 650 x 1. 

Ends in warp, 1,010; 80 ends sel- 
vage, two ends in one heddle; total, 
1,090 ends. 

The take-up during the weaving is 
very little; the take-up in the finish- 
ed goods about 1 per cent. After the 
fabric is finished the threads lie prac- 
tically straight; this is due to the 
openness of the mesh. This readily 
illustrates that the closer the weave, 
the more take-up of warp yarn. 

Warp yarn, l-50s cotton. Filling, 1- 
80s cotton. Finished weight, 10 yards 
equal 7 ounces. The finished fabric 
carries about 12 per cent of sizing. 
FINISHING. 

After the fabric is taken from the 
loom, it is sent to the dyehouse. The 
first process is to boil it off, in order 
to rid it of all foreign matter pos 



526 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



sible; then it is dyed or bleached as 
required. After this process and after 
the fabric is dried, it is then immersed 
in size. Sizing the fabric is usually 
done in front of the drying cylinders. 
The goods pass from the size trough 



by the one in charge to see that too 
much waste is not being made at any 
one machine and also to see that it is 
broken up into short lengths before 
being put into the mixings. Long 
lengths of sliver waste are apt to wind 




Tarlatan. 



onto the drying cylinder, which prac- 
tically completes the finishing process. 
The goods are then doubled and put 
onto boards in the form of rolls, after 
which they are ready for the market. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machinery required to make the 
counts of yarn of which tarlatan is 
made will be found in the second di- 
vision of mills, as given in a previous 
article. The counts used for this class 
of goods differ slightly, but for this 
article we will consider the counts to 
be l-50s for the warp yarn and l-80*s 
for the filling yarn. These yarns are 
made of American cotton of about 
1 5-16-inch staple. This cotton is first 
mixed by hand, as large a quantity 
being mixed at one time as possible. 
In fact two large mixings should be 
made so that one batch may be dry- 
ing out while the other is being used. 
At this point the good sliver from all 
the machines up to the slubber is mix- 
ed in, it being collected at regular in- 
tervals from the machines. An eye 
pbould be kept on this waste 



around the various rotating parts of 
the opener and cause a "bung up," 
which requires time to remove and 
also is apt to cause a fire. 

If trunking is used to connect the 
opener to the breaker picker, be sure 
that no scraps of iron or other metal 
are around where they can work into 
the cotton, as this is also apt to cause 
a fire by coming in contact with the 
metallic parts of the machine and 
striking a spark, which ignites the 
other cotton very quickly and often 
causes a fire on account of the cur- 
rents of air which fan it into a flame. 
Keep the hopper full of cotton for rea- 
sons previously given. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 

(two-bladed rigid type) of the opener 
is 1,500 revolutions per minute; the 
total weight of lap at the front is 40 
pounds. These are doubled four times 
at the intermediate picker. The beater 
of this machine may be either of a 
rigid type or a pin beater. If of a 
rigid type it makes 1,400 revolutions 
per minute; if a pin beater, 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



527 



of lap at the front of this machine is 
38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at the finisher picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. At this ma- 
chine the cut-roving waste is mixed 
in with the raw stock in the propor- 
tion of one lap of cut waste to three 
laps of raw stock. The cut roving is 
first put through a process to take out 
the twist and then run through a 
picker to form it into a lap. The beat- 
er of this machine may be either a 
rigid or a pin type. If the former, its 
speed should be 1,450 revolutions per 
minute; if the latter, 1,500 revolutions 
per minute. The 

TOTAL WEIGHT OF LAP 
at the front of this machine should be 
38 pounds or a 14% -ounce lap. At 
this machine all laps are weighed, and 
if they vary one-half pound from the 
standard weight they should be put 
up at the back and run over again. 
Always keep a supply of laps ahead in 
case of breakdowns/etc. The laps are 
then put up at the cards. The speed 
of the licker-in should be about 325 
revolutions per minute; flats should 
make one complete revolution every 
55 minutes. The card clotning should 
be 110s for cylinder and 120s for doffer 
and flats. Use a large doffer (either 
26 or 27 inch diameter). Strip cards 
three times a day and see that they 
are ground all over once a month a 
whole day (twice a month grinding 
half a day is better). 

ALWAYS GRIND LIGHTLY. 
The card clothing should be looked 
after at intervals to see that it is not 
faced or hooked. Before grinding, all 
jams should be taken and flats should 
be kept free from cotton embedded in 
the wire fillet. After grinding, the 
parts should be set in proper relation 
to each other. The sliver at the front 
for the class of goods under descrip- 
tion should weigh 65 grains per yard 
and the production should be about 700 
pounds per week of 60 hours. The 
cotton should be run through three 
processes of drawing frames. It will 
be found 

A GREAT ADVANTAGE 
to run metallic top rolls for this grade 
of goods. The weight of the sliver at 



the finisher drawing should be about 
65 grains, the doublings at each proc- 
ess of drawing being 6 into 1. The hank 
roving at the slubber should be about 
55. The slubber roving for both the 
warp and filling roving should be put 
through three processes of fly frames, 
the hank roving being as follows: For 
warp, first 1.50 hank; second, 3.50 
hank; jack, 10 hank; for filling yarn, 
first, 1.50; second, 4 hank; jack, 16 
hank. 

The roving for warp yarn should be 
taken to the ring spinning room and 
spun into 50s count on a frame hav- 
ing the following particulars: Gauge 
of frame, 21 inches; diameter of ring, 
iy 2 inches; length of traverse, 6 
inches; revolutions per minute of 
spindle, 10,000. The yarn is then 
spooled and warped and several warps 
put up at the slasher and the required 
number of ends run onto a beam at the 
front. The filling yarn is spun into 
80s on a frame having the following 
particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 5 inches; revolu- 
tions per minute of spindle, 7,400. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Tarlatans are dyed on the jig ma- 
chine, or the color is boiled up in the 
starching process with the starch. The 
dyed colors, being faster, are mostly 
used. The following color is an ex- 
ample of a starched dyeing: 

ORANGE. 
One gallon of water; 6 ounces dex- 
trine; 2 ounces tetrazo orange CR. 
Mix cold. Boil for 30 minutes. Pass 
the pieces through a starch mangle, 
and dry on tenter frame. All one-dip 
colors can he dyed after this formula 
and any shade produced by varying 
the amount of color. 

RED. 
Three per cent tetrazo red B. ; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

PINK. 

Four ounces benzo fast pink 2 BL.; 
10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 



528 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



LEMON YELLOW. 

One-half per cent chrysophenine; 10 
per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

GREEN. 

Three per cent brilliant benzo green 
B.; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

WINE. 

Two per cent diamine Bordeaux B.; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SCARLET. 

Two per cent diamine scarlet B. ; 25 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent diamine catechine 
G--; Yz per cent diamine brown B.; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SLATE. 

One per cent diamine black BH. ; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SKY BLUE. 

One per cent diamine sky blue FF.; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Three per cent diamine blue RW.; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 

Five per cent diamine jet black 
OO.; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

MAUVE. 

One-half per cent diamine violet N.; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

GRAY. 

One per cent diamine gray G. ; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

ROSE. 

One-half per cent diamine rose BD. ; 
15 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda. The pieces are starched and 
dried on a tenter frame. 



BROCATELLE 



Brocatelle is a coarse brocaded or 
figured fabric of cotton and wool or 
silk and linen or cotton, used for 
tapestry and upholstery and some- 
times for dresses. The brocatelle used 
for dresses is much finer and neces- 
sarily lighter in weight than the fab- 
ric used for upholstery purposes. 

'We will here consider the fabrics 
used for upholstery purposes only. 
This may be classed as a double cloth 
fabric, with two warps and two fill- 
ings, a face warp and weft and a back 
warp and weft. These warps and fill- 
ings, however, interweave with one 
another, thereby binding together the 
two sets of warp and filling threads, 
with this peculiarity, that the face 
warp threads do not show on the back 
of the fabric nor does the back filling 
show on the face of the fabric, while, 
on the contrary, the face filling shows 
on the back and the back warp threads 
show on the face. 

The face warp threads give body to 
and also form the ornamental feature 
of the fabric, which is the raised oi 
brocaded figure in the cloth. 

These threads, when not forming 
the figure, lie buried between the face 
and back filling picks. The figure thus 
formed is usually of an eight-harness 
sateen weave, the ends floating over 
seven back filling picks and under one, 
while the back filling is used princi- 
pally to give weight to the fabric and 
accentuate the raised figure. 

Brocatelle, as already mentioned, is 
made with silk and wool, linen or cot- 
ton; the face is of silk, while the back 
has wool, linen or cotton, depending 
on the quality of fabric desired, as 
does also the quality of silk used in 
the fabric. 

The yarns in all instances are 

DYED BEFORE WEAVING. 

The colors and number used depend 
upon the prevailing fashion. £om« 
brocatelles are made up of several col- 
ors on the face of the goods, while 
again others have but two — the figure 
and ground colors. The figure color 
is usually darker than the ground. For 
example, a dark olive may be used fo 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



529 



figure color, that is, the face warp 
threads, while the ground color, face 
filling picks, may be a light salmon. 
The back warp is usually the same au 
the face filling, while the back fillin 
usually blends off to a lighter shade 
of olive. The object is to have thr 
colors blend well together and at tlv 
same time form a harmonious con- 
trast. 



190 ends per inch in reed; reeded 8 
ends 50-2 silk and 2 ends 2-110s cot- 
ton in one dent; 19 x 10 dent reed. 

Ends per inch finished 200; finished 
width of fabric, 49.4 inches. 

Filling: 116 picks per inch; 58, 21s 
silk salmon; 58, 28s linen light olive; 
total 116. 

Linen 300 yards per pound; 10s cot- 
ton. 




Fig. 1. 



The ornamental features of broca- 
telles are elaborate, conventionalized 
floral figures which cover the greatei 
portion of the surface of the fabric 
about 75 per cent. The figures are bold 
and rich, repeating about 4y 2 timer 
across the width of the fabric. Fig. * 
gives an idea of the character of de- 
sign used. This is about one-half th 
size it would be in the fabric. 

THE CONSTRUCTION 

is as follows; 

7,904 ends 50-2 silk face warp. 
i.,976 ends 2-110s cotton back warp. 
16 ends 4-20s white cotton selvage. 

9,896 ends in warp. 

Dressed, 4 ends olive 50-2 silk; 1 
end salmon 2-110s cotton; total, 5 ends 
per warp pattern. 



Filling arrangement: 1 pick 21s sill 
face; 1 pick 28s linen back; total, 2 
picks, repeat. 

Weight per yard of finished fabric 
14.83 ounces. 

Weight of various yarns used: 

6.04 ounces face warp. 
2.60 ounces face filling. 

.70 ounce back warp. 
5.46 ounces back filling. 

.03 ounce selvage. 



14.83 ounces. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
Brocatelle requires a heavy jac- 
quard loom. The patterns require from 
400 to 1,200 ends and over, in order to 
repeat. Consequently, a machine that 
can operate the required number of 
ends is essential for the production of 
these fabrics. When a great number 



530 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of ends are required for the repeat of 
the pattern, two machines are com- 
bined; for example 2-600 machines will 
operate a 1,200 end pattern, but usual- 
ly a French or fine index machine Is 
used that will operate the required 
number of ends. 

The pattern to be woven is first 
stamped on cards by means of a card 
cutting machine. This machine con- 
sists of a punch box, containing 13 
punches; if a 600 machine, 25; if a 
1,200 machine, 24 for cutting the 
smaller holes and one for the peg 
holes. These cards, when placed on 
the jacquard machine over the loom 
bear a direct relation to the warp 
threads, raising and dropping them 
according to the pattern. The warp 
threads in the drawing in are kept 
separate from each other; that is, the 
face warp threads are drawn through 
certain mails, as likewise are the back 
warp threads, although both sets of 
threads are represented on the one 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics require no finishing. 
They are smoothed and folded and are 
then ready for the upholsterer. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills which make the cotton 
yarns for brocatelle will be found in 
the second and sometimes the first di- 
vision of mills, as given in a previous 
lesson. Brocatelle is a fabric made up 
of many different fibres, but the fabric 
under description is composed of silk 
and cotton, the back warp and selvage 
being composed of cotton yarns. It 
is these yarns that we will describe. 
The cotton back warp yarns are 2-llf 
cotton yarns, while the selvage is com- 
posed of 4-20s cotton yarns. The cot- 
ton used for the back warp of this 
count would be of a good American 
cotton of about 1 9-16-inch staple. This 
yarn should be put through a bale 
breaker and carried to the bins by 
means of a blower and trunking. This 
will insure the cotton at this point be- 
ing dry, and in a more "picked out" 
state than when hand mixing is done. 
The cotton is mixed at the bale break- 
er in the usual manner, each bale be- 



ing first stapled to make sure that the 
cotton is all up to standard. 

COTTON MUST BE DRY. 
If the mixing is done by hand it 
should be allowed to stand as long as 
possible before using, so that it will 
be thoroughly dry. Too much care 
cannot be taken at this point, as all 
carders know what trouble damp cot- 
ton makes. The good sliver waste 
from the machines up to the slubber 
is mixed in at this point, care being 
taken to see that only the cotton of 
the same grade and length of staple 
is thrown into the bin. This waste 
should not be put all in one place, but 
should be distributed all over the top 
and front or back of the mixing. The 
cotton is next run through an opener 
and 

THREE PROCESSES OF PICKING. 
At the opener the hopper should be 
kept well filled so as to feed the break- 
er picker an even sheet. The breaker 
picker beater is generally of the rigid 
type, either two or three blades being 
used. 

If two blades are used, the speed 
should be about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute; if three blades, the speed 
should be proportionately slower. The 
total weight of the lap at the front is 
37% pounds or a 14-ounce lap. These 
laps are doubled four times at the in- 
termediate. This picker is generally 
provided with a two-bladed beater, the 
speed of which for this class of cotton 
should not exceed 1,450 revolutions 
per minute. Some overseers 

PREFER A PIN BEATER 
at the machine and a rigid beater at 
the finisher and some just the reverse. 
If a pin beater is used, the fan does 
not have to be run at such a high rate 
of speed, as this beater creates con- 
siderable draught itself. The total 
weight of the lap at this picker is 36 
pounds or a 13-ounce lap. These are 
put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this 
beater, two-bladed rigid type, is 1,400 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap is 35 pounds or a 
12% -ounce lap. The cotton at this 
picker receives 42 beats per minute. 
The laps are put up at the card. The 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



531 



licker-in speed should be about 350 
revolutions per minute. The top flats 
make one complete revolution in 40 
minutes. The cards should be ground 
and set once a month, stripped three 
times a day and cleaned and oiled 
twice a day; keep the front of the 
cards always clean from fly, etc. Col- 
lect flat strips at regular intervals, not 
too long apart, so that they will fall 
over the doffer and not get into the 
good work. The sliver at the front 
should weigh 60 grains per yard, and 
the production should be 550 pounds 
per week of 60 hours. This sliver is 
put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 

The top rolls used may be either me- 
tallic or leather top rolls. These should 
be looked out for at all times, but es- 
pecially so in hot weather to see that 
they are in perfect condition. Keep 
sweaty hands off of the varnish on 
the rolls. Varnish rolls frequently. 
A small piece of borax in the mixture 
will help harden the varnish. The 
weight of the sliver at the finisher 
drawing is 60 grains per yard. When 
the weight is kept at the drawings, 
they should be sized at least three 
times a day. This is then put through 
the slubber and made into .55 hank 
The roving is then put through threo 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov: 
ing at each process being as follows: 
First, 2.25; second, 6.50, and jack, 
18.50. The roving is next spun into 
110s on a frame having the following 
particulars: Diameter of ring, 1| 
inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; 
speed of spindle, 9,400 revolutions per 
minute. This is then spooled, and 
twisted into 2 -ply yarn and then run 
on a warper and through a slasher. 

COTTON USED FOR SELVAGE. 

The cotton to make the selvage yaru 
is 1%-inch staple. At the pickers the 
changes from the above are as fol- 
lows: Speed of beater, breaker, 1,500 
revc'.'-.tions per minute; intermediate 
1,4 .0 revolutions per minute and fin- 
isher, 1,450 revolutions per minute. 

The weights of the laps are as fol- 
lows: Breaker, 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap; intermediate, 37 pounds or 
a 12-ounce lap; finisher, 35 pounds or 



a 12% -ounce lap. At the cards note 
the following changes from the back 
warp yarn: Speed of top flats, 1 revo- 
lution every 50 minutes; weight of 
sliver, 65 grains per yard; production 
per week of 60 hours, 750 pounds. 

Draft of cards should not be over 
100. At the finisher drawing the 
weight of sliver at the finisher is 70 
grains per yard. It is 

AN ADVANTAGE 
to use metallic top rolls on this stock 
at the drawing frame. Slubber roving 
should be .55 hank. There should b3 
two processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each process being as fol- 
lows: First intermediate, 1.75 hank; 
second, 5 hank. The roving is then 
taken to the spinning room and spun 
into 20s yarn on a frame, the partic- 
ulars of which have been given be- 
fore. The yarn is then spooled and 
twisted into 4-ply 20s. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

The colors are dyed on the silk, 
wool, or cotton, in the yarn. The col- 
ors used depend on the prevailing 
fashion. 

The following wool colors are dyed 
in the acid bath of 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt and 3 per cent sulphuric 
acid. 

For 100 pounds wool yarn: 

LIGHT SLATE. 
Four ounces patent blue B. ; *4 
ounce orange II. 

OLIVE BROWN. 
One per cent orange II.; % ounce 
lanafuchsine SB.; 4 ounces fast yel- 
low S.; 1 ounce indigo blue N. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
Two per cent orange II.; iy 2 per 
cent fast yellow extra; 4 ounces azo 
crimson L. ; 6 ounces fast green B. 

OLIVE GREEN. 
One and three-quarters per cent in- 
digo blue N. ; 1 per cent tropaeoline 
OO. 

GREEN. 

Two and one-half per cent Indigo 
blue N.; y 2 per cent fast yellow S.; 
IY2 tropaeoline OO. 



532 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



BLACK. 
Five per cent palatine black 4 B. 

VIOLET. 
Two per cent acid violet 4 BN. 

SCARLET. 
Two per cent palatine scarlet 4 R. 

SALMON. 
One and one-half ounces rhodamine 
5 G.; 20 grains eosine yellowish. 

ROSE. 
Five per cent rhodamine G. 

LAVENDER. 
One ounce acid violet 4 BN.; 30 
grains orange II.; 100 grains fast acid 
violet 10 B. 

SILK COLORS. 
Silk yarn is dyed in the soap bath 
with the addition of acetic acid. 
SALMON. 
One ounce rhodamine 5 G. 

LIGHT LAVENDER. 
One-quarter acid violet 4 BN.; 100 
grains rhodamine G. 

OLIVE GREEN. 
One per cent fast green B.; 1 per 
cent fast yellow Ex.; 4 ounces orange 
II. 

ROSE. 
One per cent rhodamine 5 G. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Two per cent indigo blue N. ; 4 
ounces acid violet 2 BN. 
RED. 
One per cent fast red R. 
LIGHT GREEN. 
One per cent acid Victoria green 
SN. 

LIGHT YELLOW. 
Four ounces tartarzine S. 

COTTON COLORS. 
Following are the dyeing particulars 
for cotton colors: 

BLUE. 
Four per cent brilliant benzo blue f 
B.; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 



LIGHT BROWN. 
Two per cent diamine brown B. ; 1 
per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

OLIVE BROWN. 
Three per cent chloramine yellow 
M.; y 2 per cent benzo dark green B.; 
y 2 per cent benzo brown B. 

TAN. 
One-half per cent benzo fast orange 
S.; 2 per cent chrysophenine; 2 ounce? 
benzo fast black. 

GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial green GG. ; 
8 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Ten per cent immedial indone 3 B. ; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

OLIVE. 
Five per cent pyrogene olive G. ; 5 
per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

RED. 
Five per cent benzo fast red 4 BS.; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 



TERRY PILE FABRICS 

Terry is a fabric in which the dis- 
tinguishing effect is small loops of 
warp yarn, uncut pile, projecting from 
one or both sides of the cloth, these 
loops being tied to the ground cloth in 
regular or irregular order as desired. 

The terry principle of construction, 
which has been developed with the 
power loom, is used extensively in the 
manufacture of cotton terry toweling, 
known generally as Turkish toweling. 

These towels are made in various 
sizes and grades from the cheap fab- 
rics made almost entirely from waste 
yarns to those made of the best qual- 
ity of cotton obtainable. 

Terry pile is the simplest of the 
many types of warp pile goods, the ef- 
fect being obtained without the use 
of wires. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



533 



Two warps are required: (a) the 
ground warp; (b) the pile warp. 

The ground warp contains the sel- 
vage and ground ends, and is wound 
on the regular loom beam. This beam 
is heavily weighted in the loom. The 
pile warp is usually wound on a light 
beam and is allowed to let off the 
warp very easily. 

The reason for the difference in ten- 
sion on the warps is to allow the 
ground warp to remain tight and the 



TO. 4- 




FIG. 6 



pile warp to go forward easily when it 
is required to loop. 

Figs. 1, 2 and 3 will serve to illus- 
trate the relation of a terry design to 
the cloth. Circles indicate picks; 
dotted lines, ground ends; continuous 
lines, pile ends. The numbered ends 
in each figure correspond. 

Assuming F to represent the fell of 
the cloth, and the last pick of a re- 
peat, Fig. 2 shows how the three suc- 
ceeding picks A, B and C would appear 
when about to be driven to the fell of 
the cloth, and Fig. 3 a section of the 
cloth with the loop completed. 

Figs. 4, 5 and 6 illustrate a design 
and sectional view of a terry cloth in 



which the pile is distributed on one 
side of the cloth only. Cloth of this 
type is used for furniture coverings 
and as a ground for embroidered ef- 
fects. 

Figured terry goods are made by 
combining colored yarns and terry 
effects, the terry being thrown on eith- 
er side when the other is weaving a 
ground weave. The face and back are 
reversible. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

In order to weave terry toweling a 
dobby loom differing from the ordi- 
nary loom is required. The principal 
point of difference is in its having 
mechanism to allow two (in three-pick 
terry)' out of three picks to be beat- 
en up to within a certain distance of 
the fell of the cloth, this distance de- 
pending upon the length of pile de- 
sired, then forcing these two picks 
along with every third pick, to the 
fell of the cloth. 

The object of this is to allow the 
first two picks to fasten themselves 
into the pile ends, say one-half inch 
from the cloth, so that when the three 
picks are driven home together the 
pile ends will go along with them, 
making a loop slightly less than % 
inch. At the same time the three picks 
will slide over the ground ends, these 
interlacing with the filling as in an 
ordinary cloth. 

To accomplish the three-pick move- 
ment to form the loop one of twc 
methods is adopted: (a) By rocking 
or oscillating reed which is held back 
or forced to the fell of the cloth as de- 
sired; (b) by a rocking whip roll and 
back roll terry motion. With this de- 
vice the reed is held firm, the cloth be- 
ing moved back toward the rear of the 
loom every third pick. A backward 
and forward movement, similar to that 
of the cloth, is imparted to the tem- 
ples. The length of pile can be varied 
as desired, or the weave can be chang- 
ed from terry to regular, or from reg- 
ular to terry as required. 

A loom for weaving terry towels, be- 
sides having mechanism for making 
the pile, contains mechanism for one 
or more of the following: (a) A boy 
motion, for inserting different colors 
or kinds of filling; (b) a fringe motion 



534 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



for making fringe at the end of each 
towel; (c) a motion for changing the 
weave from terry to regular construc- 
tion or vice versa at the beginning and 
end of each towel. This is usually ac- 
complished with a multiplier or re- 
peater, or with a measuring devicr 
which automatically brings into play 
the pattern chain required. 

Terry looms are usually heavily built 
and contain stands for as least two- 
warp beams. 

FINISHING. 

Some toweling is sold in the gray 
but most of it is bleached. First proc 
ess: Boiled with 4 per cent caustic 
soda, boil for 12 hours, rinsed through 
water; second, again boiled with 4 
per cent caustic soda, boil for 10 
hours; third, passed through acid bath 
y 2 degree Tw. sulphuric acid, rinsed 
with water; fourth, passed through 
chlorine water at y 2 degree Tw. and 
laid down in bin until white; fifth, 
passed through acid bath of y 2 degree 
Tw. sulphuric acid and rinsed well 
with water, dried and cut up intc 
towels. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which terry cloth are 
made vary from those made of waste 
stock to those made of long staple 
combed stock and it would be 
hard to describe one particular grade 
to make it cover all terry cloth. For 
this article we will suppose the 
average count of the yarn is l-45s 
and will give the carding and spin- 
ning particulars for this count of 
yarn in both warp and filling yarns. 
We will also consider that the stock 
is carded. 

THE MACHINERY USED 

would be found in the equipment found 
in the second division of mills, as giv- 
en in a previous article. The cotton 
would be brought from the cotton 
shed and sampled by the one in 
charge of this job; sometimes it is 
the overseer, sometimes the "super." 
and sometimes, in large mills, a cot- 
ton sampler is employed. All bales 
containing cotton not up to grade or 
length of staple should be placed at 



one side and not put into the mixing. 
The mixing should be as large as pos- 
sible and may be done either by hand 
or, as is more generally the custom, by 
a bale breaker. One bale breaker is 
able to take care of a great many 
bales of cotton per week. The cotton 
is fed to the bale breaker from several 
bales of cotton, a little being taken 
from each. This is so that the cotton 
from all the bales will be intermixed, 
and in this manner a more even yarn 
is apt to result. After passing the 
bale breaker the cotton is conveyed to 
the mixing bins by an arrangement of 
endless lattices, which may be moved 
when it is desired to drop the cotton 
into another bin. 

THE MIXING 
should be allowed to stand as long as 
possible, especially if the mixing is 
done by hand. The cotton is then 
put through a bale breaker and three 
processes of picking. The hopper of 
the opener or feeder should always be 
kept more than half full so that the 
spiked lifting apron will always be 
carrying a load to the pin beater. In 
this manner an even amount of cotton 
is fed to the feed rolls of the break- 
er picker. The breaker picker is pro- 
vided with either a two or three armed 
rigid type of beater. If two-bladed, 
the speed should not exceed 1,500 rev- 
olutions per minute for this grade and 
staple of cotton (1 5-16-inch peeler). 
The total weight of the lap at the 
front end of the breaker picker is 40 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the intermediate picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. This picker may 
be provided either with a rigid or pin 
type of beater. They both have a 
great many favorites among the trade. 
The speed of a rigid two-bladed type 
should be about 1,450 revolutions per 
minute. 

THE FAN SPEED 
should be about 1,050 revolutions pei 
minute. If a pin beater is used, the 
speed of the fan may be reduced. This 
is on account of the amount of draft 
that this beater creates itself. The 
total weight of the lap at the head end 
of this machine is 37 pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the finisher picker and doubled 4 intc 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



635 



1. What has been said of the 
beater at the intermediate picker ap- 
plies here, except that the speed of a 
two-bladed rigid type should be 1,400 
revolutions per minute. This, gives 
the cotton passing through it about 42 
beats or blows per inch. The cut rov- 
ing is brought to the picker room and 
put through a special picker (to take 
out the twist) and then is run through 
a breaker picker to form it into a lap, 
and these laps are mixed with the raw 
stock at the finisher picker in the pro- 
portion of three laps raw stock to one 
lap cut waste. The total 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 

at the front of the finisher picker 
should be about 35 pounds or a 12y 2 - 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the card; the draft of which should 
not exceed 110. The card clothing 
used should be for carding medium 
counts. This should be ground at 
least once a month all over, after 
which the card should be reset. Use 
gauges that are straight and not bent 
all out of shape. The cards should be 
stripped three times a day and kept 
clean. The speed of the licker-in 
should be about 300 revolutions per 
minute and the flats should make one 
complete revolution every 50 minutes. 
The weight of the sliver should be 65 
grains per yard, with a production of 
700 pounds for a week of 60 hours., 
Use as large a doffer as possible. This 
sliver is put up at the drawing frame 
and doubled 6 into 1. The sliver 
should be run through 
THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 
Either metallic or leather-covered top 
rolls may be used to good advantage. 
Whichever top roll is used, it should 
be kept in the best of shape. The 
weight of the sliver at the front of the 
finisher drawing should be about 70 
grains per yard. This is put up at 
the slubber and made into .55 hank 
roving. This is put through three 
processes of fly frames and made into 
9 hank, the hank roving at each proc- 
ess being as follows: 1st, 1.25 hank; 
2d, 3.50 hank, and fine, 9 hank. This 
is then taken to the ring spinning 
room and made into 45s warp yarn on 
a frame with the following particulars: 



Gauge of frame, 2| inches; diameter 
of ring, iy 2 inches; length of traverse, 
6 inches; speed of spindles, 10,000 rev- 
olutions per minute; twist per inch, 
30.19. This is then spooled and warp- 
ed and the required number of warps 
put up at the slasher to give the re- 
quired number of ends at the front 
warp. For making 45s filling yarn use 
a frame having the following particu- 
lars: Diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 5y 2 inches; twist 
per inch, 25; "speed of spindles, 8,500 
revolutions per minute. 

■»*» 

SATINE or SATEEN 

Satine, or sateen, is a cotton fabric 
with a smooth, lustrous surface resem- 
bling satin. The latter is made of silk. 
The weaves for satins and satines are 
similar. 

Satines, which are of two kinds, 
warp satines and filling satines, are 
made in a great variety of weights 
and qualities, and are used for many 
purposes. 

The bulk of the goods are made on 
the filling satin principle and are used 
for linings, corset covers, dress goods, 
etc. These are usually woven grey 
and are bleached, or piece dyed in 
varying colors. 

Warp satines are used for mattress 
and furniture coverings. 

Stripe effects are made by using a 
warp containing different colors and 
a warp satine weave. Warp and filling 
satines are also printed, to a consid- 
erable extent, the smooth face lend- 
ing itself very readily to this process. 

COLORED EFFECTS 
made in the loom are confined to 
stripes made when a warp satine 
weave is used, because the warp cov- 
ers the filling almost entirely. In a 
filling satine the filling practically cov- 
ers all the warp, and color inserted 
here would show in barry effect across 
the cloth. 

The smooth, lustrous effect of sat- 
ines is due in large measure to the 
weave used. Briefly stated, satine 
weaves are made on from five ends 
upward; they are complete on the 
same number of ends as picks; each 



536 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



end and each pick interlaces only 
twice in each repeat; the interfacings 
do not support each other, at least 
one end or one pick separating them. 

In filling satines each end is raised 
over one pick only in each repeat; 
warp satines, vice versa. 

Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate the only two 
filling satine weaves that can be made 
on five ends. Both of these weaves are 







aaaaaaa 


■1GBIIB 






■■■■■■a 


aaaaaaa 


noma 


Daaaa 


BBaBBBB 


■■■■■a ] 


Diana 


aaaam 


aaaaaaa 


«:«■■«■ 


aoana 


amaaa 


BDBBBBB 


■■■Gill 


DOBOa 


aaaaa 


■■■■aaa 


■■■■a .a 


■aaaD 


■aaaa 


aaaaaaa 


aaaaaaa 



used in the trade, some buyers prefer- 
ring one to the other, according to the 
effect desired. 

Figs. 3 and 4 show warp satine 
weaves on seven ends each. 

The constructions of filling satine 
fabrics vary from about 64 to over 100 
sley and 120 to 300 or more picks. 

The following, which show results 
of the analyses of five different satine 
fabrics, will serve to show that the 
satine principle of construction is used 
in fabrics of widely differing quali- 
ties. 

Sample No. 1. Colored warp satine 
stripe cloth for upholstery; 96 ends 
and 52 picks per inch; 7s cotton yarn 
for warp and Its for filling. Woven 
with weave Fig. 5, a 5 -end warp satine 
weave. 

The filling in this particular sample 
is twisted harder than the warp. 

Sample No. 2. A fine warp satine of 
good quality, made with a 7-end 
weave; 152 sley and 80 picks; 2-50s 
warp and 30s filling. 

Samples 1 and 2, as well as almost 
all warp satines, on account of the 
large proportion of warp on the face, 
would be woven face down in the 
loom. 

Sample No. 3. A filling satine of fair 
quality; 72 sley and 150 picks; 45s 
warp and 70s filling. Weave Fig. 1. 

Sample No. 4. 96 sley and 280 picks; 
45s warp and 97s filling. Weave Fig. 
1. 

Sample No. 5. 104 sley and 210 
picks; 60s warp and 75s filling. Weave 



Samples 4 and 5 are of good quality. 

Satines, whether warp or filling, are 
usually woven on single box cam 
looms of heavier build than plain 
sheeting looms. The selvages are ac- 
tuated by a selvage motion. If woven 
on dobby looms, the selvage motion 
is dispensed with. 

One warp only is required. The 
ends are drawn through the harnesses 
in straight order. 

In practice it has been found ad- 
visable, when weaving heavily pick- 
ed satines, to use a reed that is no 
deeper than is necessary. For warp 
satine, on account of the large num- 
ber of ends and comparatively few 
picks per inch, deeper reeds are used, 
so that the wires will give, to some 
extent, for knots. 

FINISHING SATINES. 

Satine tickings are sheared and then 
calendered with hot steam rollers, the 
steaming being done in front of the 
machines; the appearance is improved 
by gas singeing. A method of finish- 
ing ordinary dyed yarn satines is to 
first saturate them with a mixture of 
corn or potato starch, China clay or 
baryta and tallow. To this is added 
soap or oleine, with wax and glue size. 
They are. then mangled, dried, damped, 
calendered, folded and pressed. 

There are many satines which are 
made from grey yarn and then finish- 
ed as desired. This method of manu- 
facture has developed extensively dur- 
ing recent years and is much more 
economical than was formerly noted 
where bleached and dyed yarns were 
used. Many of the so-called galateas 
are nothing more or less than a rath- 
er coarse satine, which has been wo- 
ven with grey yarns then bleached 
and afterward printed with various 
striped patterns. 

For printed or dyed satines, starch 
with a small portion of soda crystals 
for a stiff finish, and soluble oil with 
soda for a soft finish are used. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Satines are made up of various 
counts of yarns, the different samples 
analyzed being only a few of the va- 
rious grades made, but they illustrate 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



537 



the various grades very well. For the 
carding and spinning particulars of a 
satine, sample No. 5 will be taken as 
an example. This is made up of comb- 
ed yarns of 60s for warp and 75s for 
filling. The cotton used would be 
Egyptian or peeler of lg-inch staple. 
This grade of satine is made in either 
the second or third division of mills : 
as given in a previous lesson. Of 
course, 

THE EQUIPMENT 
will have to include combers. The cot- 
ton is first sampled and then mixed in 
a manner that has been described in 
previous lessons. It is better to use 
a bale breaker, but cotton may be 
mixed by hand. If mixed by hand, let 
the mixing stand a little longer to dry 
and open out as the cotton is com- 
pressed very tightly in the bales. 
These Egyptian bales weigh consider- 
ably more than the American bales. 

The good waste from the machines 
up to the slubber should be mixed in 
at the mixing bin. The cotton is next 
put through an opener and three proc- 
esses of picking. The hopper of the 
opener, should always be kept 
OVER HALF FULL, 
so that an even amount of cotton will 
be fed to the breaker picker. The 
breaker picker is provided with either 
a two or three bladed beater of a rigid 
type. If the former, the speed should 
be about 1,350 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the front 
should be 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. 
These laps are put up at the interme- 
diate picker and doubled 4 into 1. The 
beater of this picker is either a two 
or three bladed rigid or a bin beater. 
If the former, the speed of it should be 
1,250 revolutions per minute. If a 
pin beater is used, the fan speed should 
be reduced for reasons given in a pre- 
vious article. The total weight of the 
lap at the front should be 36 pounds 
or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are 
doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker. 
At this picker the cut-roving waste, 
which has previously been put through 
a roving picker, to take out the twist, 
and a breaker to form the fluffy mass 
into a lap, is mixed in in 
the proportion of three laps 
of raw stock to one lap of 



cut-roving waste. If the equipment 
of machinery does not include a roving 
picker, the cut roving is mixed in at 
the mixing bin, care being taken to 
spread it over the entire mixing. The 
speed of the finisher picker beater of 
a rigid two-bladed type is 1,200 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight of 
the lap at the front is 35 pounds or a 
12% -ounce lap. These laps are put up 
at the card. The wire fillet used 
should be 120s for cylinder and 130s 
for doffer and fiats. Use a 26 or 27 
inch diameter doffer. The speed of 
the cylinder should be 160 revolutions 
per minute; licker-in, 300 revolutions 
per minute. Top flats should make one 
complete revolution in 35 minutes. 
The draft of the card on this stock 
should not be less than 125. 

THE CARDS 

should be stripped three times a day 
and ground at least once a month, at 
which time the various settings should 
be gone over. Set doffer to cylinder 
with a 5 gauge. The sliver at the front 
weighs 55 grains per yard and the 
production is about 475 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. This sliver is taken 
to the sliver lap machine and doubled 
14 into 1 for an 81-inch lap (wide) or 
20 into 1 for a 10% -inch lap. These 
laps are generally put through a rib- 
bon lap machine, the weight of them 
being 330 grains per yard for an 8%- 
inch lap or 380 grains for a 10%-inch 
lap. The laps are doubled 6 into 1 at 
the ribbon lap, the weight at the front 
being 265 for an 81-inch lap and 320 
grains for a 10% -inch lap. These laps 
are put up at the comber and doubled 
either 6 or 8 into 1, according to 
whether the comber is a six or eight 
head comber. 

THE EIGHT-HEAD COMBER 
is the one that is being put in nowa- 
days, very few of the six-head being 
sold. A new development which has 
been noted the last few years is the 
use of single head combers. These are 
practically entirely produced in for- 
eign countries, their method of opera- 
tion being somewhat different than the 
old style machine, and for various rea ■ 
sons they are considered more satis- 
factory than the six or eight head 



538 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



comber. Probably there are a greater 
number of such machines being in- 
stalled in new mills than 
there are of the older style ma- 
chine. The speed of the comber should 
be at least 90 nips per minute, and 
may run up as high as 105. The per- 
centage taken out should be about 20. 
The weight of the sliver at the front 
is 40 grains per yard. The combed 
sliver is next put through two proc- 
esses of drawing, the speed of the 
front roll being 400 revolutions per 
minute. Either metallic or leather- 
covered top rolls may be used, gener- 
ally the latter. These should be var- 
nished frequently and those that are 
damaged, fluted, loose or not true 
should not be run. If the latter, they 
may be buffed, as may also the leather 
rolls at the comber. See that the stop 
motions are all in working order, and 
that the traverse motion is set and 
working so that the whole surface 
of the leather rolls is used. 

THE SETTING 
or spread of the rolls for this stock 
should be II inches front roll to sec- 
ond; 1% inches second roll to third, 
and 1% or 11 inches third to back 
roll, according to bulk of cotton being 
fed. The doublings at the drawing 
frames are 6 into 1. The weight of 
the sliver at the front is 60 grains per 
yard. This sliver is put through the 
slubber and made into .70 hank rov- 
ing, after which it is put through three 
processes of fly frames and made into 
the following hank roving at each 
frame. First intermediate, 1.75; sec- 
ond intermediate, 4.50; and fine, 15; 
at the fine frame the lays per inch on 
the bobbin being 48. 

The standard for twist for this kind 
of cotton is 1.2 multiplied by the 
square root of the count. For exam- 
ple, the count or hank is 15. The 
square root of 15 is 3.87, which mul- 
tiplied by 12, equals 4.64. If the stand- 
ard for twist on this frame was 94.9, 
the twist gear used would be 20. The 
method by which this is found is by 
dividing the constant for twist by the 
standard for twist (American frames). 
Look out for the leather top rolls, 
traverse and clearers to see that each 
is performing its duty properly. Of 



course, the speed of the rolls 
is very important, the general method 
being to gain 1-16 of an inch over 
stock at each roll. The production 
should be about 33 hank per spindle 
per week of 60 hours. The 15 -hank 
roving is taken to the ring spinning 
room and made into 60s warp yarn on 
a frame having a gauge of 2% inches; 
ring diameter of 1% inches, and 
length of traverse, 6 inches; with spin- 
dle speed of 10,000 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then put through 
a spooler and warper and then a slash- 
er. The filling yarn is made from the 
15-hank roving on a frame having a 
1%-inch diameter ring, 5 -inch traverse 
and spindle speed of 7,400 revolutions 
per minute. The roving for the filling 
yarn may be taken to the mule room, 
but for this class of goods is gener- 
ally taken to the ring frame spinning 
room. 

Dyeing and Finishing Particulars. 
PINK. 

One-half per cent Erika pink; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One per cent tetrazo chlorine lilac 
B.; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Three per cent tetrazo blue Rx.; 25 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

GRAY. 
One-half per cent thlo gray B.; 10 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
One-half per cent direct black S.; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

PEACOCK BLUE. 
Two per cent Eboli blue B.; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

RED. 
Three per cent direct red B.; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
SLATE. 
Two per cent katigen black SW.; 
2 per cent sodium sulphide; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent soda ash. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



639 



ROYAL BLUB. 
Three per cent brilliant benzo blue 
6B.; % per cent benzo fast violet R. ; 
25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

TAN BROWN. 

Three per cent benzo fast orange S. ; 
2 per cent chrysophenine ; y 2 per cent 
benzo fast black; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

SKY BLUE. 
One and three-quarters per cent dia- 
mine sky blue FF.; 25 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

BROWN. 

Three per cent diamine brown B. ; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

WINE. 

Three per cent diamine Bordeaux 
B.; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

SCARLET. 

Two and one-half per cent diamine 
scarlet B.; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

Satines are finished by passing 
through a calender machine to give a 
fine luster finish and are sometimes 
placed on a beetle machine and beetled 
for two bours. They are starched first 
with a very light starch, and a little 
white soluble softening, to give a 
soft, smooth feel. 



MUSLIN— BUTCHER'S MUSLIN 

Muslin is commercially understood 
to mean a soft cotton fabric, used for 
various purposes, but principally for 
dress goods, underwear, sheetings, 
etc. Some muslins are named from 
their place of production, as Asoreem, 
Dacca, India, Madras and Swiss, 
while some are named from the 
use to which they are chiefly put, as 
butcher's muslin, which derives its 
name from the fact that it is chiefly 
used by grocery men and butchers in 
the form of aprons and coverings. It 
is a strong bleached fabric, well suit- 
ed for the purposes. Muslin is so call- 
ed from Mosul, a city on the banks 
of the Tigris, where was once the 



chief seat of its manufacture, but to- 
day large quantities are manufactured 
in the United States. 

The quality of muslin is as varied 
as are the names by which it is 
known. Butcher's muslin is but a sub- 
stitute for butcher's linen. Cotton is 
cheaper and almost as durable, and 
because of this it has forced itself to 
the front. Butcher's muslin is easily 
distinguished from the others by its 
coarseness. However, considerable 
quantities are used for summer outing 
dresses, for which purposes the 
bleached fabric only is used. The un- 
bleached is used principally for sheet- 
ings and sometimes for pillow cases. 
The unbleached fabric is preferred 
where durability is the chief object. It 
is a common fact that unbleached fab- 
rics will wear better than bleached. 

Muslin is used only in the bleached 
or unbleached state. The fabric is 
seldom dyed. 

As previously mentioned, there are 
various kinds of muslin; in fact, any- 
thing in the line of soft cotton fab- 
rics may be termed muslin. The name 
by which a particular kind is common- 
ly known may vary likewise in quality, 
as, for example, there are several 
qualities of butcher's muslin, as an 
analysis would prove. 

Analysis of a fair grade of butcher's 
muslin, which retails at 15 cents per 
yard: width in reed, 37% inches; fin- 
ished width, 36 inches; ends in warp. 
1,900: 1.844 in body; 28 ends each 
side equal 56, selvage; total, 1,900; 900 
x 2 reed; 52 ends per inch finished; 
warp, l-12s cotton; take-up during 
weaving, 8 per cent; filling, 40 picks 
per inch in loom; 38 picks per inch 
finished; l-15s cotton; weight per yard 
in the gray, 5 ounces. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Muslin is a plain woven fabric; con- 
sequently any loom may be used in 
the weaving of these goods. The cost 
of production is, of course, reduced in 
proportion to the speed of the loom 
and the number of looms a weaver 
can take care of. The least expense 
would be incurred by using an auto- 
matic loom. 

The warp should be sized 
so as to withstand the chaf- 



540 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ing during weaving. As a rule, all 
single yarns are sized before they are 
beamed. The warp is drawn in on 4 
harnesses. Fig. 1 shows design. 

amamamam 

■OBDBDBQ 

amamamam 
mamamama 

amamamam 
mamamama 
amamamam 
mamamama 

Tie. I- 

FINISHING. 

The unbleached receives little or no 
finishing. After it conies from the 
loom, it is simply boiled off, dried, 
made up into rolls and then shipped. 

When the fabric is to be bleached, 
it is first boiled off, then subjected to 
the bleaching chemicals, after which 
it is sometimes subjected to a very 
light sizing, composed of corn, or 
wheat, glycerine, bees' or Japan wax, 
after which it is run through a rotary 
press, then made up into rolls or fold- 
ed and shipped. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which butcher's mus- 
lin is made are of a low count and are 
made in mills of the first division. The 
grade of cloth is sometimes made up 
of raw stock and a certain percentage 
of waste. The raw stock used very 
rarely exceeds I inch in staple and 
is of a low-grade American cotton. 
While the same care is not taken of 
this class cotton at the different proc- 
esses for this cloth, still care should 
be taken to see that each machine is 
working properly to its best advan- 
tage for production. In this class of 
goods production is 

THE FIRST CONSIDERATION 
and quality the second. This does not 
mean that quality should be sacrificed 
wholly for production, but that the 
machines should be driven to a great- 
er extent and the best possible work 
turned off of them under these condi- 
tions. For example, at the card the 
top flats should not be set or driven 
at the same speed as when finer goods 
are made, and so it is with all the ma- 
chines. The cotton mixings should al- 
ways be as large as possible and 
should be allowed to stand as long as 



possible before being used. This gives 
the cotton a chance to dry out. A bet- 
ter plan (if there is room enough) 
is to have two large mixings and use 
the cotton from one while the other 
is drying out. If cotton is very damp, 
the heat should be turned on to help 
dry it out. This is generally done at 
night or over Saturday and Sunday. 
It is at this point that the good waste 
from all the machines is mixed in, 
care being taken to see that the waste 
is spread as evenly as possible over 
the mixing. As the cotton is generally 
quite dirty, it is put through an open- 
er and three processes of picking. The 
hopper of the opener should always 
be kept full of cotton. The opener is 
connected directly with the breaker 
picker and this machine is provided 
with either a two or three bladed rigid 
beater. If of a two-bladed type 

THE SPEED 

should be about 1,550 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front should be about 40 pounds, 
or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put 
up and doubled four into one at the 
intermediate picker. This beater is 
generally of a two or three bladed 
rigid type, and if the former its speed 
is 1,500 revolutions per minute. The 
laps at the front of this machine weigh 
38 pounds total weight and 10 ounces 
per yard. The laps are put up at the 
finisher picker and doubled four into 
one. This machine is generally pro- 
vided with a two-bladed rigid type of 
beater having a speed of about 1,500 
revolutions per minute. The laps at 
the head end weigh 40 pounds or 14% 
ounces to a yard. An allowance of 10 
ounces either side of standard is made 
with this staple cotton. If the lap va- 
ries more than this, it should be run 
over again. These laps are put up at 

THE CARD. 
This should be set coarse and have 
No. 100 wire fillet on cylinder and top 
flat, the doffer fillet being No. 110 
The draft of card should not exceed 
100. Strip cards at least three times 
a day. The cards on this stock need 
more stripping than when long-sta- 
pled stock is used, because of the 
greater bulk passing through and also 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



541 



on account of the short staple, which 
fills up the wire. The card sliver 
weighs 65 grains per yard and the 
production should be about 1,000 
pounds per week of 60 hours. This is 
put through two processes of drawing 
frames. It is of great advantage to use 
metallic rolls on this class of goods. 
The speed of front rolls is 400 revolu- 
tions per minute. Keep rolls free from 
dirt and fly. The sliver is put through 
the slubber and made into .40 hank 
roving. This is put through two proc- 
esses of fly frames, having the follow- 
ing hank roving: 1.30 at the first and 
3.25 at second. The roving is then 
taken to the spinning room and made 
into 15s on the filling frame and 12s 
on the warp frame. Use a warp frame 
with 3-inch gauge, 2J-inch ring and 7- 
inch traverse, with a 16.45 twist per 
inch and spindles revolving at 9,000 
revolutions per minute. This yarn is 
then spooled and wound on a warper. 
Enough beams are put up at the back 
of the slasher to give a beam with the 
required number of ends in front. To 
make 15s filling yarn use a frame hav- 
ing 2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diam- 
eter ring, 6%-inch traverse, 12.59 
twist per inch and spindle speed of 
6,900 revolutions per minute. 



HENRIETTA CLOTH 

Henrietta cloth is a light-weight 
fabric for women's wear, made in all 
colors from single worsted yarn, with 
silk mixture in the best qualities. 

The cheaper qualities are made with 
cotton and worsted, the cotton yarn 
being for the warp, while the worsted 
is used for filling. Henriettas are 
made in various qualities; for exam- 
ple, the "all-worsted" from various 
grades of fine worsted yarn; the wor- 
sted and silk mixture from various 
grades of each; the "cotton and wor- 
sted" made up in various qualities of 
cotton and worsted yarn. 

When the fabric is made with dif- 
ferent qualities of yarn, that is, the 
warp differing from the filling in qual- 
ity or kind, the cheaper quality or kind 
is in all instances used for warp. The 



reason for this is readily understood, 
when the character of the weave is 
taken into consideration. The weave 
for this fabric is a one-up, two-down 
twill, the weave repeating on three 
ends and three picks. Fig. 1 shows 



DdlEOBDOU 

□BDDBDDBD 
BDDB IDBDD 
DnBQOBDDB 
DiajIQGIO 

■uinniDD 
■ aaGQanaa 

DBODBQDBn 

BaDBQDBQQ 

Fig. 1. 

CDDDCDDDB 

DDDDCQDiD 
DDDDDLiQa 
DDDDDBanD 

ooaaBDDaa 

DDDBDDDOn 
DDBDDDDDD 

DBGDDDCGD 

BDnncnncn 
Fig. 2. 



nine repeats of the weave; Fig. 2, 
drawing-in draft. This weave will 
show but one-third of the warp on 
the face of the fabric and two-thirds 
of the filling; the filling is usually of 
a slightly coarser count than the 
warp, especially when cotton warp is 
used, consequently the filling, to a cer- 
tain extent, covers the warp yarn. 
The two factors, the weave, viz., 1 — - 
twill and the coarser count of filling, 
give to the face of the fabric a much 
finer feel than the back. The feel or 
handle of henriettas is very important, 
consequently the above-mentioned 
particulars should be kept in view 
when constructing a. fabric of this 
character, as its commercial value is 
largely influenced by the feel of the 
fabric. 

PIECE -DYED. 

The cloth is dyed after it is woven. 
Considerable quantities of cotton and 
worsted henriettas are bleached or 
finished in the gray; when the cotton 
and worsted fabric is to be dyed, the 
cotton yarn is prepared so as to take 
color in a worsted dye, otherwise two 
dyeing processes would be necessary — 
one for the cotton yarn and one for 
the worsted. The one-dip or union dye 
makes the cost of finishing but normal. 
Preparing the cotton yarn for the 
worsted dye is accomplished before 
the yarn is warped or beamed. 



542 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ANALYSIS. 
Width of warp in reed, 38 inches. 
Width of fabric finished, 35 inches. 
Lnds per inch in reed, 70. 
Knds per inch finished, 76. 
Reed, 35x2. 

kinds in warp 2,620, plus 40, 20 ends each 
side selvage; total ends in warp, 2,660. 
Warp yarn, l-50s cotton. 

FILLING. 
l-40s worsted. 
64 picks per inch in loom. 
66 picks per inch finished. 
Finished weight per yard, three ounces. 

WEAVING. 

Henriettas are usually woven on 
dobby looms, the speed of which is 
from 120 to 140 picks per minute; it 
is essential that the warp is well siz- 
ed, adding about 15 per cent of weight 
to the yarn; wheat, flour, sago or po- 
tato starch may be used; in connec- 
tion with this, a small quantity of 
chloride of magnesium should be add- 
ed to give the yarn the necessary 
moisture and pliability. 

FINISHING. 
First process: After the fabric is 
woven, it is scoured, then bleached, 
dyed or left in the gray, as the case 
may be, after which the fabric is sub- 
jected to a very light singeing in order 
to slightly stiffen the cloth, after 
which it is pressed, then made up into 
rolls. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns which make up henrietta 
cloth are made up of two fibres, wor- 
sted for the filling and cotton for the 
warp yarn. The count of the warp 
yarn is 1-50 and this count of yarn 
would be made up in mills of the sec- 
ond division, as given in a previous 
article. This * equipment should in- 
clude combers, as this yarn in most 
grades of the cloth under description 
is combed. The cotton Is mixed in the 
usual method, which has been de- 
scribed several times. It is 

OF GREAT ADVANTAGE 
to use a bale breaker for this class of 
yarns. The cotton is put through 
three processes of picking, the break- 
er picker being combined with an 
opener. The breaker picker is provid- 
ed with a three-bladed beater, the 
speed of which is 1,200 revolutions 



per minute. The lap at the front 
weighs 39 pounds to the lap or 16 
ounces to the yard. These are doubled 
4 into 1 at the intermediate picker. 
This picker has a pin beater, the speed 
of which is 1,300 revolutions per min- 
.ute, the fan speed being reduced on 
account of the extra draft caused by 
the pin beater. The total 

WEIGHT OF LAP 
at the front end of this picker is 37 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. At this point the 
cut-roving waste is also mixed in in 
the proportion of 1 lap cut waste to 
3 laps raw stock. This picker is gen- 
erally provided with a two-bladed 
beater, the speed of which is 1,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. Keep the beater 
blades sharp and properly adjusted. 
This speed of the beater gives the cot- 
ton passing through the picker about 
40 beats or blows to the inch. The to- 
tal weight of lap at front is 35 pounds 
or a 12% -ounce lap. The lap for this 
class of work is allowed half a pound 
variation either side of standard 
weight; if more than this, it should 
be run over again, because, If put up 
at the card, it would have a tendency 
to make uneven work. 

AT THE CARD 
the following particulars should be 
observed: Draft of card not less than 
110; wire fillet for cylinder, 120s; for 
doffer and top flats, 130s. Use large 
doffer. Strip three times a day. Grind 
all fillet once a month, leaving grind- 
ing rolls on all day. Grinding twice a 
month is better, leaving grinding rolls 
on half a day. The speed of the licker- 
In is 300 revolutions per minute; flats, 
1 revolution in 35 minutes. The weight 
of sliver at front should be about 
50 grains per yard; production, 550 
pounds per week of 60 hours. This sliv- 
er is taken to sliver lap machines and 
doubled 14 into 1 for 83-inch lap or 
20 into 1 for 10% -inch lap. The 

SPREAD OF ROLLS 
for this stock (peeler l^-inch staple) 
should be as follows: Front to middle, 
1% inches; middle to back, 13 inches. 
The weight per yard of lap at the 
front is 300 grains for 8% -inch lap or 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



543 



350 grains for a 10% -inch lap. These 
laps are put up at the ribbon lap ma- 
chine and doubled 6 into 1. The 
weight per yard of lap at the front is 
265 grains for 81-inch lap or 315 
grains for 10% -inch lap. This gives a 
draft of about 7 for this machine. 
These laps are put up at the comber 
and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, ac- 
cording to the number of heads on the 
comber. If 8 heads, the laps should be 
10% inches wide and set as follows: 
Cushion plate to half lap, 18 gauge; 
top combs to segment, 20 gauge. Peed 
at 5%, top comb set to 29 degrees an- 
gle; a double row of needles is used 
on top comb; 18 per cent waste should 
be taken out. 

THE SPEED 

should be 100 nips per minute; draft 
about 40; weight of sliver, 50 grains 
per yard. The setting of rolls in draw 
box should be as follows: Front to 
middle, 11 inches; middle to back, 1% 
inches. This sliver is put up at the 
drawing frames and doubled 6 into 1 
and put through two processes, the 
speed of front roll at each process be- 
ing 380 revolutions per minute, the 
spread of the rolls being as follows: 
Front to second, 1| inches; second to 
third, 11 inches; third to back, 1% 
inches. Use leather top rolls on this 
class of drawing and keep them well 
varnished and in perfect condition. 
The weight of sliver at the front of 
the finisher drawing is 65 grains per 
yard. This is put up at the slubber 
and made into .50 hank roving. 

AT THE SLUBBER 

the front rolls for this class of goods 
are sometimes varnished, but this is 
not often done, they being varnished 
when running on Sea Island stock. The 
slubber roving is put through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing at each process being as follows: 
First intermediate, 1.50; second inter- 
mediate, 3.50, and jack, 10 hank. Look 
out for the traverse motion and do 
not lay roving too close to make tri- 
angular roving. This roving is then 
spun into 50s yarn on a ring spinning 
warp frame with a 2|-inch gauge of 
frame, 1%-inch diameter ring and 



a 6-inch traverse. The speed of the 
spindles is 10,000 revolutions per min- 
ute, the twist per inch, 31.81. This 
yarn is next put through a spooler, 
then a warper and from here to a 
slasher. A good-sized mixture for this 
class of goods is as follows: Water, 
100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; 
Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; white soap, 
1% pounds. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

This cloth is dyed with union col- 
ors, the wool and cotton being dyed in 
the same bath. The goods are entered 
into the dye-kettle; after the color 
has been boiled up with from 20 to 
30 per cent of Glauber's salt, cool off 
with water to 120 degrees F. Run the 
goods for 20 minutes; heat to 200 de- 
grees F. Run for 30 minutes. If wool 
is not dark enough, boil for some min- 
utes more; when wool is only a shade 
too light, turn off steam and run for 
30 minutes or until the cotton is col- 
ored to shade. If the goods are boil- 
ed too long the wool will be too dark 
and the cotton thin. 

UNION BLACK. 

5 per cent union black BF.; 25 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

1% per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 
% per cent diamine orange B.; % per 
cent diamine brown M.; 6 ounces 
union black BF.; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 2 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 

3 per cent diamine black BH.; 1 per 
cent union black BF.; 4 per cent 
naphthol blue black; % per cent for- 
myl violet S 4 B.; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 5 per cent salt. 

RED. 

5 per cent benzo fast red S 4B.; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. 

LIGHT TAN. 

100 pounds goods: 1 ounce tetrazo 
orange G.; % ounce union tetrazo 
black B. ; \ ounce tetrazo Bordeaux G. ; 
£ ounce tetrazo brown R.; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 



544 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



SLATE. 

1 per cent diamine black BH.; % 
per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 20 
per cent Glauber's. 

PURPLE. 

2 per cent diamine violet N. ; V± per 
cent union black; 1 per cent formyl 
violet S 4 B.; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 

3 per cent diamine scarlet B.; 30 
per cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent 
salt. 

PEA GREEN. 
y 2 per cent diamine green B.; 1 
ounce diamine sky blue; 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

ROYAL BLUE. 

3% per cent diamine brilliant blue 
G.; */& per cent diamine violet S 4 B.; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent 
salt. 

DARK GREEN. 

2y 2 per cent diamine black HW.; 2 
per cent diamine green B.; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. 

RUBY. 
3 per cent diamine fast red F. ; y 2 
per cent diamine Bordeaux B.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. 



CAMBRIC 



Cotton cambric is a fabric woven 
with a plain weave, the distinguishing 
effect being a heavily glazed, smooth 
surface. The glossy effect is obtained 
in the finishing process. The goods 
are somewhat lighter in weight than 
French percale. 

When finished white or in solid col- 
ors they are used very extensively 

FOR LINING PURPOSES. 

The name cambric, like many other 
names of dry goods, does not signify 
any special construction or quality of 
fabric, being made in both linen and 
cotton materials. 

The name is said to have been origi- 
nally given to a very fine, thin linen 
fabric made at Chambrey, or Cam- 
brai, in the department of Nord, 
French Flanders. 



Cambric is known in France as ba- 
tiste, so called, it is said, from its in- 
ventor, a linen weaver na : ned Baptiste, 
of Chambrey. One authority states 
that French cambric is the finest linen 
fabric made. 

Cotton imitations of the original 
cambric are of the muslin type and 
are sometimes termed cambric-mus- 
lin. 

The finer grades of cotton cambrics 
are made from hard twisted cotton 
yarns, and are of good quality. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 
Any of the light, single-box fast- 
running looms or automatics are suit- 
able for weaving cambrics, the goods 
being woven white, then bleached or 
piece-dyed as required. 

The finest grades, where mispicks 
tend to make second quality goods, 
are woven on the regular looms. 

Little attention is paid to mispicks 
when weaving the lower qualities of 
goods, and these can be made most 
economically on the automatic looms. 
ANALYSIS. 
An analysis of a black cambric of 
only fair quality shows the following 
data: Finished width, 36 inches; fin- 
ished weight, 4 yards per pound; ends 
per inch, finished, 70; picks per inch, 
finished, 54. 

The average number of the yarns in 
the finished sample is 24, but on ac- 
count of the starch, clay, or other fill- 
ing substance used in the finishing 
process, the gray yarns would be finer 
than 24. 

To obtain the fabric just mentioned, 
the following might be adopted, both 
as to construction and finish: 

Width of warp in reed, 381 inches. 
Warp yarns, 26s cotton. 
Filling yarns, 28s cotton. 
Eight double ends on each side for 
selvages. 

Total ends, 2,536. 

Seventy sley reed, 2 ends per dent. 
Fifty-six picks per inch. 
Weight, 4.3 yards per pound from 
loom. 

The finished and unfinished weights 
do not bear a direct proportion to the 
average counts of yarns in each case 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



545 



on account of the increase in length of 
the cloth during the process of fin- 
ishing. 

FINISHING. 

After dyeing, open the goods out to 
the full width and run through a man- 
gle containing the filling substance; 
then dry. 

After drying, dampen in a damping 
machine and run through a calender. 

For a fine white cambric the goods 
would be bleached, opened out to the 
full width, run through a starch man- 
gle, containing a light starch or fill- 
ing substance, the starch being blued 
to give the shade required, dried, 
dampened and run through a 5 -bowl 
calender twice, the same side of the 
cloth being presented to the surface 
of the brass or steel roll each time. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which cambric is made 
are spun in mills having the equip- 
ment of the first and second division 
of mills as given in a previous article. 
Cambric is made in mills or sets of 
mills where only this grade of cloth 
or perhaps two or three other styles 
of cloth of the same grade of fabric 
are made and after the proper gears 
hank roving are once found they are 
never changed. In fact, a machine or 
set of machines may run on this grade 
of goods its whole lifetime, the only 
changes made being in case of a 
breakdown, or parts and gears becom- 
ing worn out. Cambric is made from 
American cotton, the length of the 
staple used being from 1 to 1% 
inches. For this article we will con- 
sider the staple to be 1 inch in length 
and the count of the yarn to be as 
follows: 26s for warp and 28s for fill- 
ing. 

THE MIXING 

is generally done by hand, and the 
mixings are always as large as pos- 
sible. In some mills two large mix- 
ings are made so that one can be dry- 
ing out while the other is being used. 
Better results are obtained by the lat- 
ter method. The good sliver wasto 
from machines up to the slubber, as 
well as the cut-roving, is mixed in at 
the mixing bin. The cotton is then put 



through an opener and either two or 
three processes of picking, three proc 
esses being the general method. The 
opener is either directly connected 
with the breaker picker or is connect- 
ed by trunking; if by trunking, keep 
it clear, so as not to cause fire. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER, 
which is of either a two or three 
bladed rigid type, is 1,500 revolutions 
per minute for the two-bladed, or 1,000 
revolutions per minute for the three- 
bladed type. The total weight of the 
lap at the front of breaker picker is 
40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These 
are doubled four into one at the in- 
termediate picker. The speed of this 
beater, which is generally of a rigid 
two-bladed type, is 1,450 revolutions 
per minute, the total weight of lap at 
the front being 38 pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the finisher picker and doubled four 
into one. 

This picker is equipped with a two- 
bladed rigid style of beater, and makes 
1,450 revolutions per minute, which 
gives the cotton passing through 
about 42 blows or beats per inch, the 
total weight of lap at front being 39 
pounds or a 14 % -ounce lap. The cot- 
ton is next put up at the card. 

THE CARDS 
on which cambric was formerly made 
are to some extent now used and are 
known as the top flat card. These are 
fast going out of date, so that the 
particulars given below refer to the 
so-called English card. The draft for 
this card, for these goods, should not 
exceed 90. The wire fillet used should 
be 100s for cylinder and 110s for dof- 
fer and top flats. The speed of the 
cylinder should be 160 revolutions per 
minute; licker-in, 400 revolutions per 
minute, and top flats should make one 
complete revolution in 50 minutes. 
Grind once a month. Strip three times 
a day and if running an extra heavy 
production, strip once more. Set top 
flats to cylinder to a 12-1000ths gauge 
and doffer to cylinder to a 7-1000ths 
gauge. Use large doffer. The 
WEIGHT OF SLIVER 
at the front of the card should be 
65 grains per yard and the production 



546 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



about 750 pounds for a week of 60 
hours. The card sliver is next put 
through either two or three processes 
of drawing, generally three. The 
doublings are generally six into one. 
The speed of the front roll is 400 rev- 
olutions per minute. On this class of 
goods some overseers prefer the me- 
tallic top rolls. In calculating the pro- 
duction of a drawing frame with me- 
tallic top rolls, it is the general rule 
to allow one-third more than that fig- 
ured for leather rolls. It is found, 
however, that this is too great, and if 
the allowance is cut down to ^4 or 25 
per cent, it will be found about right. 
Keep metallic rolls clean and well 
oiled. In figuring 

DRAFT OF FRAME 

with metallic top rolls, add 7 per cent 
when draft does not exceed 3.75, and 9 
per cent when draft is between 4.60 to 
7. If leather top rolls are used, care 
should be taken to see that they are 
properly oiled and free from flutes; 
they should be level, without breaks 
in leather, and the leather cot should 
be tight and last should be varnished 
frequently. A good recipe for a 
cooked varnish is given below: One 
quart vinegar, seven ounces glue, two 
teaspoons gum tragacanth, borax, size 
of walnut, one teaspoon brown sugar, 
cook about an hour. Thicken with 
lampblack and Princess metallic. One 
that does not need cooking is as fol- 
lows: Three ounces glue, one ounce 
acetic acid, one-half teaspoon brown 
sugar, one-half teaspoon oil origanum. 
Dissolve and add color; add one- 
half teaspoon of borax in hot weather. 
The bottom steel rolls should be set 
as follows: Front roll to second, 1% 
inches; second to third, 11 inches; 
third roll to back, 1% inches. The 
weight of sliver at the front of the 
finisher drawing should be 70 grains 
per yard. This is put through the 
slubber and made into .40 hank rov- 
ing. The 

SLUBBER ROVING 
is put through two processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving at each being 
as follows: First intermediate, 1.75, 
and second intermediate, 5; the set- 
ting of the bottom steej rolls at each 



process being 1 1-16 inches from front 
to middle and 1*4 inches from middle 
to back. The roving is taken to the 
ring spinning room and spun into 26s 
yarn on a warp frame having the fol- 
lowing particulars: Gauge of frame, 
2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% in- 
ches; twist per inch, 24.22; length of 
traverse, <*y 2 ; revolutions per minute 
of spindles, 9,200. The yarn is next 
spooled and then warped, after which 
it is put through a slasher. On this 
class of goods a heavy sizing is used. 
The roving is spun into 28s yarn on 
a filling frame with a 2% -inch gauge 
of frame; l|-inch diameter ring; 6- 
inch traverse;. 17.20 twist per inch; 
revolutions per minute of spindle, 7,- 
300. This yarn is then taken to the 
steam chest or put through some other 
process which prepares it for weaving. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
Cambrics are dyed in the jig ma- 
chine or the continuous machine. The 
fancy colors are dyed on the jig. After 
dyeing, the pieces are starched with a 
light starch and calendered through a 
heavy calender. 

BLACKS. 
One-dip salt black, 6 per cent oxy- 
diamine black SAT.; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 
SULPHUR BLACK. 
Ten per cent immedial black N N; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's. 
BOTTLE GREEN. 
Ten per cent thionol dark green; 2 
per cent thionol yellow; 15 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent common salt. 
PEA GREEN. 
Two per cent immedial green B B.; 
2 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent direct Indigo blue B 
EM.; 15 per cent salt; 2% per cent 
frankhansine. 

DARK SLATE. 

One per cent Pluto black S S.; 40 
per cent Glauber's salt; 2 per cent 
soda ash. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



547 



BROWN. 
Three per cent tetranil brown O.; 30 
•-•er cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda 
isb. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent tetrazo yellow M. ; 
i per cent tetranil brown O.; 30 per 
:ent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. 

OLD GOLD. 

Three per cent diamine fast yellow 
B.; y 2 per cent diamine bronze G.; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda 
ash. 

SLATE. 

Two per cent diamine black B H.; 
2 ounces diamine yellow B.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. 

MAROON. 
Ten per cent immedial maroon B.; 10 
per cent sulpbide soda; 5 per cent so 
da ash; 35 per cent salt. 

GREEN. 

Ten per cent immedial green G G.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 35 per cent salt. 

BLUE. 
Ten per cent immedial new blue G.; 
20 per cent sulphide sodium; 5 per 
cent soda ash; 40 per cent salt. 

ECRU 
Three per cent immedial cutch G.; 
4 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
SCARLET. 
Five per cent diamine scarlet B.; 30 
per cent salt. 

WINE. 
Four per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 
B S.; 1 per cent benzo fast violet R. ; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent Erika pink; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SKY BLUE. 

One per cent diamine sky blue F 
F.; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One per cent diamine violet N; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. 



TIRE FABRICS 



Tire fabrics are, as the name im- 
plies, used for automobile, bicycle and 
other vehicle tires. 

They are not actually tires them- 
selves, but form the base or founda- 
tion of some kinds of composition and 
pneumatic rubber tires. 

Like other terms denoting the use 
to which the fabric is to be subjected, 
as quiltings, bedspreads, shirtings, 
etc., the term tire fabrics covers a 
wide range of weights and qualities. 

The stock used in the warps for 
these goods is of good quality, al- 
though the single yarns used are not 
of very high counts. 

The weights vary considerably, 
ranging from about three to 20 ounces 
per square yard. In one type of goods 
this excessive variation is due almost 
exclusively to the ply warp yarns, 
which vary from 2 to 12 ply, from sin- 
gle yarns varying from about 8s to 
40s, according to the weight required. 
This type of tire fabric is termed 
thread fabric. 

ANALYSIS. 

The analyses of two tire (thread) 
fabrics of widely varying weights show 
the following data: 

Sample No. 1. Warp ends per inch 
in reed, 16. Reed, 16; one end in each 
dent. 

Warp yarn, 11-ply 9s cotton. 

Filling: One pick per inch of sin- 
gle 40s cotton. 

Finished weight per square yard, 
13.5 ounces. 

The weave is plain. The drawing is 
in straight order. 

One peculiarity of this class of tire 
fabrics, which will be noticed from the 
preceding data, is that the filling is 
used merely to keep the warp yarns 
in position, not being needed to give 
strength to the cloth. 

Sample No. 2. Warp ends per inch in 
reed, 68. 

Reed, 17; 4 ends in each dent. 

Warp yarn, 2-ply 24s cotton. 

Filling: One pick of 40s filling ev- 
ery three-quarters of an inch. 

Finished weight per square yard, 
3.9 ounces. 



548 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



The ends in Sample No. 2 were 
drawn 2 as 1 through each heddle eye, 
in straight order, two picks complet- 
ing the weave as in an ordinary plain 
cloth. 

For a better quality of fabric with 
the same construction the yarns would 
have been drawn in straight order, 
reeded two ends in each dent, as 



l 

Fig. 1. 

shown by the vertical lines in Fig. 1, 
and actuated as indicated by chain 
draft Fig. 2. 

X X 
X X 

Fig. 2. 

By this arrangement the ends work- 
ing together would have been split or 
separated with the reed and prevented 
from rolling over each other. 

If woven on a cam loom working 
four harnesses, the drawing in and 
reeding would be as indicated in Fig. 



l 

Fig. 3. 

3, and the lifting of the harnesses as 
indicated in Fig. 4 



Fig. 4. 

Reed ends at lines in Fig. 3, two 
ends in each dent. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Tire fabrics may be woven on heavy 
ordinary one-shuttle cam or dobby 
looms, there being but one warp and 
one filling, provided provision is made 
for the proper regulation of the let- 
off and take-up motions. 

On the heavy grades of goods, it is 
advisable to fold the woven fabric as 
it is made, instead of running it on a 
cloth roller, on account of the large 
yardage produced in a short time. 

The two samples analyzed were 
woven on a heavy loom running about 
90 picks per minute. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

In a previous article the cotton mills 
were divided into three divisions, 
each division having a different equip- 
ment of machinery. The mills that 
make tire fabrics do not come under 
the head of any of these divisions, but 
may be classed among those having a 
special equipment. This is on ac- 
count of the extra length of staple 
used, which is very rarely less thau 
1% inches, and from this up to the 
longest staple grown, 2 1 / i inches. The 
stock is, of course, Sea Island. It will 
therefore be readily understood that 
the machines in use in the other di- 
visions of mills, having drawing rolls, 
such as drawing frames, slubbers, fly 
frames, etc., could not spread the bot- 
tom steel rolls the required distance, 
so as not to break the staple. In or- 
der to do this, specially constructed 
frames have to be obtained, which al- 
low this spread of rolls. 

ANOTHER POINT 
is that the one main object sought is 
strength and this is the chief reason 
why long staple is used, the counts of 
yarn being extremely low for the 
length of the stock, i. e., 2-24s warp 
and 40s filling, so that the additional 
points that should be looked out for, 
besides those that will be given be- 
low, are to see that the top clearers 
cover all the top rolls, that the spread 
of the rolls is enough so that the sta- 
ple will not be broken, and that the 
traverse motion is in perfect shape 
and working properly. 

As it is strength that is sought, the 
cotton is 

GENERALLY COMBED 
to get all short staple out, but some- 
times the stock is only carded. When 
carded, the carding should be light or, 
better still, double carding should be 
used. In this article we will consider 
the yarn to be combed. The mixing 
should be done by hand, the cotton be- 
ing first stapled to see that it is up to 
standard, which for this article will 
be considered as 12 inches. The cot- 
ton, after being allowed to dry out, is 
put through an opener and either one 
or two processes of picking, generally 
one. If one process Is used, the lattice 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



649 



is marked off into sections of one yard 
each and an equal amount of cotton 
put onto each section to make the re- 
quired weight lap in front. If two 
processes are used, the opener is com- 
bined with the breaker picker. The 
speed of the beater of the breaker 
picker should be about 850 revolutions 
per minute for a two-bladed rigid 
type. The total weight of the lap at 
the front should be 32 pounds or an 
8% -ounce lap. These laps are doubled 
four into one at the finisher picker; 
the speed of this beater should be 800 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of lap at the front should be 
27 pounds or a 9-ounce lap. A varia- 
tion of not over 6 ounces either side 
of standard should be allowed. All 
laps outside this variation should be 
run over. The picker laps are put up 

AT THE CARD. 

On this class of work the draft of the 
card should not be less than 140 and 
from this up to 180. The wire fillet 
used should be No. 120s for the cylin- 
der and No. 130s for the doffer and top 
flats. The speed of the cylinder should 
be 160 revolutions per minute, licker- 
in 200 revolutions per minute, and top 
flats should make one complete revo- 
lution every 35 minutes. Cards should 
be stripped three times a day, al- 
though some overseers claim that 
stripping of the cylinder twice and the 
doffer three times a day is plenty. 
The cards should be ground once a 
month or oftener if wire is dull. For 
this class of goods keep wire fillet as 
sharp as possible. Use close settings 
except that of the feed plate to the 
licker-in, which should be set so as 
not to break the staple. Pull the sta- 
ple at the back and front of card at 
least once a day to see that the length 
of staple is the same in both places. 
The weight of the sliver at the front 
should be from 35 to 45 grains per 
yard, 45 grains being a good weight. 

THE PRODUCTION 
should be about 300 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. Keep front of card clean, 
so that the short fly, etc., will not get 
into the good carded cotton. The cot- 
ton is next put through the sliver lap 
machine, where it is doubled 20 into 1 



for a 10 Vz -inch lap, or 14 into 1 for 
an 81-inch lap. We will consider that 
the lap being made is a 10% -inch lap 
used on an eight-head comber. Set 
the bottom steel rolls as follows: 
Front roll to middle, 2 inches; mid- 
dle roll to back, 2% inches. In comb- 
ing this cotton, the instructions given 
in a previous lesson may be followed 
with the following exceptions. The 
weight of the sliver lap per yard is 
275 grains; at the ribbon lap 260 
grains per yard. The cotton lap is next 
put through the comber. The 

SPEED OF THE COMBER 

for this stock should be about 85 nips 
per minute. The doublings are 8 into 
1 (for an eight-head comber). The 
percentage of waste taken out is from 
25 to 30. Use close settings, 18 from 
half lap to segment and 21 from top 
comb to segment. The sliver at the 
cam should weigh 45 grains. After 
the comber use three processes of 
drawing, the spread of the rolls being 
as follows: 11 inches from front to 
second; 2 inches from second to third 
roll; 2% inches from third to back 
roll. Look to the top leather covered 
rolls to see that they are in perfect 
shape and properly varnished. The 
weight of the sliver at the front of 
the finisher drawing should be 60 
grains per yard. The doublings at the 
drawing should be 6 into 1. At the 
slubber this drawing should be" made 
into .70 hank roving. At this frame 

' SEVERAL CHANGES 

are made, which are as follows: The 
top leather rolls are varnished, some- 
times all three sets, and sometimes 
only the front rolls. The size of the 
front leather roll is sometimes in- 
creased to 1% inches. This is to help 
prevent the roving "licking up"; 
when this is done, top clearers simi- 
lar to those on mules are used. 
The slubber roving is put through 
two processes of fly frames and made 
into the following hank roving: 2.25 
at the first intermediate and 5 at the 
second for the 40s cotton, and for the 
24s cotton the hank roving at each 
frame is as follows: 2.25 at the first 
and 8 at the second intermediate. 



650 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



The spread of the rolls should be as 
follows: Front to middle, H inches; 
middle to back, 2 inches. It should 
be understood that when giving the 
spread of the rolls, the distance is 
from center to center. The warp yarn 
is then spun into 24s on a warp frame 
having a 2-inch diameter ring and a 
7-inch traverse. Some overseers give 
a little more than standard twist to 
this yarn. The yarn is then put 
through the spooler and from here to 
the twister, where it is made into 2- 
ply yarn. From here it is put through 
the warper and the slasher. The fill- 
ing yarns may be either mule or ring 
spun; if spun on a ring frame for 40s4 
yarn, use a l|-inch ring and 5 ^ -inch 
traverse. This yarn is then condition- 
ed, when it is ready to weave. 



PLAIN and PLAIDED NAINSOOK 

Nainsook is a light cotton fabric, 
utilized for numerous purposes, such 
as infants' clothes, women's dress 
goods, lingerie, half curtains for din- 
ing rooms, bathrooms and for various 
other purposes. The striped or plaided 
nainsook is used for the same pur- 
poses as the plain fabric, depending 
upon the tastes of the consumer. 
Where the fabric is required for lin- 
gerie and infants' wear, the English 
finished fabric is selected because of 
its softness. When intended for cur- 
tains or dress fabrics the French fin- 
ished fabric is chosen; the latter fin- 
ish consists of slightly stiffening and 
calendering the fabric. 

The name nainsook is derived from 
the Hindoo Nainsukh and was original- 
ly defined as a stout India muslin, man- 
ufactured in India. 

The fabric as manufactured to-day 
may be distinguished from fine lawns, 
fine grades of batiste and fine cam- 
brics from the fact that it has not as 
firm construction, or as much body, 
and the finished fabric is not as 
smooth nor as stiff, but inclines to 
softness, principally because it has 
not the body to retain the finishing 
materials used in finishing the fabric; 
consequently it must needs be a 
cheaper article than the fabrics above 



mentioned. Nainsook, like most cot- 
ton fabrics, is made in several grades, 
the different grades being affected by 
the counts of yarns used, which in 
turn influence the ends and picks per 
inch in the construction. 
ANALYSIS. 
Width of warp in reed, 30^ inches; 
width of fabric finished, 28*4 inches; 



miDHiDiDiaiaiD 
■■aaaiGHDMcnDuaa 
bgbbb_bgbgb ioid 
niii < ■ ■ ■ ■ 

■Ji JiB< I I I IQ 

aaaaaaaaGBaaaaDB 
BOBBBoaoaoaoBoaa 

DBBBBBGODBDDaDDB 

BjaaaaanBDCccLBa 

BBGBDBGaaGCBCCGO 
BGBBBLOannBQDDDD 

DBaBBlGBCGGCCECO 

BaaGBBBDDnDDacna 

BSGBGBGBGBDBCBGB 
BGBBB :9GBGBLBGBG 

DBaaaaGB b-bccb 

■ii:i )Ijb^ile;i.d 

BBGaGBGBGBGBGBGB 
BGBBBGBGBGarBCED 

CBiia jaDBCBGBGSGB 

aaaaaBBGBGBGBOBG 

BHGB1BDDDBGGDDDB 
BGBBBGDaBQDDGGBa 

DBBiaBDDQnDiDDOD 

BBBjHHDoarBancaa 

BBGBGBDBGGGGGBan 
BQBBBDBODDDDBDGD 

Fig. L 



GBBBGBGflGB 
BBBGBDBGBa 
BBGBGGGBGB 
BGBBBGBGBG 
GBBBGBGBGB 
BBBGBGBGBD 
BBGBGBGBDB 
BGBBBGBGBQ 
GBBBGGGBGD 
BBBGGGBDGG 
BBDBGGGGGB 
BGBBGGGGBD 
DBBBGBGGDD 
■BBGBGGGGG 
BBGBGBGBGB 
BGBBBGBGBD 
GBBWGBGBGB 
BBBGBGBGBD 
BBGBGBGBGB 
r:,BBBl_BGBG 
GBBBGBGBDB 
BBBGBGBGBD 
BBGBaaDBDD 
BDBBGDBDDD 
DBBBDODDDB 
BBBDGGGGBD 
BBGBDBGGQG 
BGBBBGGDGD 

Fig. 2. 



DDaoaDDDaaaBGaaa 

DODDDDODDDBaaODD 
DDDDDDDaGBaaaDnB 
DDGaaDDGBDaDDDBD 

BODDDDDBOaaDGBDO 
DDGDDBDGGaGBaaa 
DOGBGGGGGGDGGGDD 
DDBDBDDQDDGDDDDD 
□BDDDBDDCGDGOaDQ 

BDDaaaDaaGaaDGDa 



Pig; 8. 

ends per inch in reed, 82, reeded 2 in 1 
dent; ends per inch finished, 86; ends 
in body, 2,460, plus 40 ends selvage, 
equals 2,500, total ends in warp; take- 
up during weaving, 5 per cent; weight 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



651 



of fabric, 1% ounces per yard; warp 
yarn, l-50s cotton; filling yarn, l-64s 
cotton; 66 picks per inch in loom; 64 
picks per inch finished. Fig. 1, de- 
sign; Fig. 2, chain draft; Fig. 3, draw- 
ing-in draft. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Nainsook, like various other one- 
filling fabrics of the character under 
discussion, may be woven on any 
light, single box, high speed loom. 

Plaided nainsook seems to imply 
the use of more than one filling, the 
plaid, however, is formed by the 
weave. See design Fig. 1. 

FINISHING. 

This fabric is given either what may 
be termed an English or a French 
finish. By the former finish the fabric, 
after it comes from the loom, is boil- 
ed off, then bleached, after which it is 
softened by immersing in a light solu- 
tion of glycerine, or cocoanut oil, and 
flour or farina, after which it is dried 
by passing over heated cylinders, then 
run through a rotary press with very 
light pressure. In the French finish, 
after the fabric is bleached, it is stif- 
fened by immersing in a solution of 
size, composed of the following ingre- 
dients: flour, wax and gelatine, after 
which the fabric is dried, then slightly 
sprinkled with water, then run through 
the calender, which completes the fin- 
ishing process. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

One mill making the above style of 
fabric makes its warp and filling yarn 
as described below. This mill is in- 
cluded in the second division as given 
in a previous article. Its equipment 
includes both combers and a bale 
breaker. The stock used is 1%-inch 
good quality Allen seed cotton. The 
cotton is put through three processes 
of picking and an opener. The opener 
is connected with the breaker picker. 
This picker is provided with a two- 
bladed rigid type of beater, which ro- 
tates at 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of the lap at the front of 
this beater is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce 
lap. These laps are put up at the in- 



termediate picker and doubled 4 into 
1. This picker is also provided with 
a two-bladed, rigid beater, the speed 
of which is 1,450 revolutions per min- 
ute. The total weight of the lap at 
the front of this picker is 38 pounds 
or a 12% -ounce lap. These laps are 
put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. It is at this point 
that the cut-roving waste is mixed in, 
it having first been put through a 
roving picker and a picker to form it 
into a lap. 

THESE ROVING LAPS 

are mixed in with the raw stock in 
proportion of three laps raw stock to 
one lap cut waste. The beater used on 
this picker is a two-bladed, rigid type 
and its speed is 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. This gives the cotton passing 
through the picker about 42 beats or 
blows per inch. The total weight of 
the lap at the front is 36 pounds or a 
12% -ounce lap. The laps are next put 
up at the card. This card is provided 
with a 26-inch doffer. The speed of 
the licker-in is 350 revolutions per 
minute, flats one revolution every 43 
minutes. The draft is 100. Cards are 
stripped three times a day, ground 
twice a month, and the wire fillet used 
is No. 34s for the cylinder and 36s for 
the doffer and flats. The weight of 
the sliver at the front of the card is 
50 grains and the production is 600 
pounds per week of 60 hours. This 
mill is equipped with 6-head, 8|-inch 
lap combers. 

THE SLIVER . . 

from the card is doubled 14 into 1 at 
the sliver lap machine and the weight 
of the lap is 320 grains. These laps 
are put up at the ribbon lap and 
doubled 6 into 1, the weight per yard 
at the front being 275 grains. These 
are put up at the comber and doubled 
6 Into 1, the weight of the lap at the 
can being 40 grains per yard. The 
speed of the comber is 90 nips per min- 
ute and 18 per cent of waste is taken 
out. The sliver is then put through 
two processes of metallic top roll 
drawing frames, the weight of the 
sliver at the finisher drawing being 70 
grains per yard. The speed of the 
front roll is 375 revolutions per min- 



552 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ute. The drawing is then put up at 
the slubber and drawn into .55 hank 
roving. This is then put through 
three processes of fly frames and 
made into the following hank roving 
at each frame: First intermediate 1.50, 
second 4, and jack frame 12 hank. The 
bottom steel roll 

SETTINGS 
are as follows: Front to second, lg 
inches; second to back, iy 2 inches. 
The front top rolls of the slubber are 
varnished. The roving is next taken 
up to the ring spinning room and 
made into 64s for filling and 50s for 
warp. For spinning 50s warp yarn use 
a frame having 2%-inch gauge, 1^- 
inch diameter ring, 6-inch traverse, 
and put in 31.71 turns or twists per 
inch. The spindle speed is 10,000 rev- 
olutions per minute. This yarn is then 
put through a spooler and a warper 
and then a slasher. The filling frame 
to spin 64s should have a 2% -inch 
gauge, 1^4 -inch diameter ring, 5-inch 
traverse, 27 twists per inch and a 
spindle speed of 7,700 revolutions per 
minute. This yarn is taken to the con- 
ditioning room and then it is ready to 
be woven. 

♦♦♦ 

SPOT and STRIPES 

Produced by Means of an Extra Warp. 

The spot or stripe may be effected 
by the weave alone or by means of ex- 
tra warp and filling. The latter meth- 
od of constructing these fabrics will 
be considered. Fabrics of this charac- 
ter are made in a variety of qualities 
— from an "all cotton" to a very fine 
woolen or worsted fabric. The elab- 
oration of the spot or stripe is largely 
influenced by the material used in the 
body of the fabric. The rule with 
few exceptions is, the finer the qual- 
ity of the material, the more elaborate 
is the stripe or spot. 

THE SPOT PATTERN. 
The spot is effected by floating the 
extra warp or filling yarn on the back 
of the goods for a given space, then 
raising the extra yarn to the face of 
the fabric for a given number of picks. 
The size of the spot depends on the 



number of picks or ends which the 
extra yarn floats over, which may be 
only one, two or more picks or ends. 
This, of course, is the simplest form 
of the spot pattern. 

The simplicity of this method of 
construction lends itself readily to 
some very neat effects in small spot 
patterns; for example, by using dif- 
ferent colored yarns for the spot, ar- 
ranged in some order, on a ground 




Fig. 1. 

composed of a 4 x 4 herringbone 
weave, with ground color scheme as 
follows: 4 ends green, 4 ends black, 4 
ends brown, 4 ends black, with the 
same arrangement in the filling. The 
spot yarn may be composed of sev- 
eral colors, as, for instance, red, white. 
and yellow. 

In making the spot, with extra warr 
yarn only, the spot yarn is usually di- 
rectly under the lightest ground coloi 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



653 



and forms the spot at the junction of 
light ground colors, referring tc 
ground color scheme given above. 

The spot yarn comes to the face of 
the fabric where green crosses green 
for two picks, then floats on back 
until the alternate crossing of green. 
This form of spot is operated on but 
two harnesses. The more elaborate 
spot is formed on the same principle 
as the small two-pick spot just men- 
tioned; the elaboration consists of the 
use of more ends. These ends are wo- 
ven in in the form of a figure, which 
requires the use of from 4 to 12 har- 
nesses and more, in order to form the 
spot. These large spots are usually 
woven on a plain ground weave. The 
pattern would be read: 1 end of 
ground, 1 end of figure or extra yarn. 
The figure could be removed without 
affecting the ground weave, by reason 
of the fact that the spot is formed en- 
tirely by extra yarn. The spots are wo- 
ven in the cloth in some order; for 
instance, they may be based on any 
satin, broken twill, or plain weave or- 
der. 

Fig. 1 is a sample of spot pattern 
formed by extra warp yarn. 

RAISED STRIPE PLAID. 

These fabrics are much in use as a 
dress fabric for children and are made 
in all cotton, worsted and cotton, and 
all-worsted, with the exception of the 
raised stripe, which is usually mer- 
cerized cotton or silk. 

■OBBBB 



Fig. 2. 

The raised stripe is formed by the 
use of partially extra yarn in both 
warp and filling, that is to say, if a 
stripe is formed with 12 ends, these 12 
ends would be reeded so as to take 
the place of only 8 ground ends; for 
example, if ground is reeded 2 in 1 
dent, the stripe is reeded 3 in 1 dent. 

If we use for ground weave I 

twill, the raised stripe must be a 
weave that is divisible by 3' — the num- 



ber of ends in the repeat of ground 
weave; in order to produce perfect 
stitching, a 6 -end irregular satin 
would be required. 

In laying out the pattern, or color 
arrangement, it should be observed 
Top. 




■oipaiffc. _ 

opaiMKonipDf 
■"■■■oMcitaaBQ 

ssssss-sssesS 

ar«r.M«n«oooasa 
■ciaEaMBnfflaDDQ 
rwqaaaaBOoooos 

::s. 

tamt 




fin 

' A 12a 

IS 



__JDDfflDDD 

. JDBDQGGfflD 

aOBBOaBBOSODDD 
OBOBBBBBOOOG 

- — — oooiL^ 

JfflOOOOt 
iBOOBOOB 

naaaBSOBoaooaa 

■naanaaaaonaoD 

GBDBaBBBQGBDDB 
■DBBBOBBDBaDBQ 

GaBBBBaaaGOBoa 
BaaaBBaaGOffoaa 

OBBBBBCJBOOODHO 
BOBBOBBBOeGOOa 

GBGBBBBBaaaoaffl 
BDaaaaaaooGgoo 

OBBBBBBaSGCOGD 



'-! 09 
I 67 



•l! 



BnBBOBBBBGDBag 
GBGBBBBBOGBGC ■ 
BGBBBGBBGBCGBD 
OBSBBBBOBGaBOQ 
BGBGBBBBGGffiaaa 
OBBBBBGBaOGOaO 
BCBBOBBBOSQ QD 
GBGBBBBBOaaOGffl 
BGBBBOBBOOOffOO 
Cllllii:: 1 rr'GG 

BGBGBBBBOCBQGB 
BBBBBGBGB GBD 
■GBBGBBBBGGBGG 
GBaBBBBBGGBOQB 
BQBBBOBBGBOCBO 
UBBBBBBGBGGBGG 
BGBGBBBBGDSQDO 
GBBBBBGBGGGGSG 
BGBBaBBBGfflGCaa 
GBnBBBBBOOGQaa 

BnBBBaBBGcaffiaa 

CBBBBBBG*aaOGg 
BOBGBBBBaaBGai 
OBBBBBGBQBaOBD 
BQBBQBBBBGOBOD 
DBQBBBBBGOBCQB 

SBGBBBQB BGBGGBO 
BBBBBBOBGGBGD 
nBGBBBBGGffiaaa 

QBBBBBGBnOGQffD 

BGBBGBBBDBDDaa 
GBaBBBBBGaGGGH 
BGBBBG BBGGGaaa 
GBBBBBBOffiODDOa 
BGBaBBBBOCBQGB 
GBBaBBGBGBGGBG 
BGBBGBBBBGGBGD 
PBDBBBBBCDBDDB 

■oiiiDHQBaaiD 

QBBBBBBGBGGBGD lit bar in ob.im 
1 3 5 7 9 11 1.1 
2 4 8 in 12 14 

Fi&. 3. 



that the pattern is divisible by 6, and 
that the number of ends between the 
raised stripes in both warp and filling 



564 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



is divisible by 6, otherwise imperfect 

stitching will result when using a l 

twill for ground weave. 

These fabrics are made in various 
widths; the cotton goods are set usu- 



annunnBDnnnn 
□□aQoaa»dQan 
□□oanaoa«aoa 

acpooanoan«n 
oaaDonoCDODB 
■cPDCODnnooD 
DBoaaaDODnaa 
DiBaaanciDnnn 
DnDBDnonnona 
DGaaHDnaanDD 
naaan«nODnaa 
DanGaa«DaDDD 
aaGaaaoBanaa 
□aaononCMCCEi 
oomnaanDiDD 
naGaaanQaa«n 
DnnaGaadDDD" 
■nanaanponnn 
□■□aaonBaDco 
□GBGGGoaanaa 
□aaBGGananaa 
naaoBanaDDDG 

DGGGGGHDaDDD 

naaaGGa"onnn 
naaGGaan«GDn 
naGaaanaaBDD 
anaaaaaoaoma 

GGGGaaaaacaB 
BaaGGaaaaaGa 
DBDaaGDOnaaa 



naBGaaoBaDDCa ! g 

□aaBaannonaa* f- 

GGaaBaauaaaa " 

oaaan«aDoaDa J 

ar:GGaaBDaaaa 

DGaaaaaBaaaa 

aanaaDQDBDDa 

aaGGaaGQaBaa 

DaanDaaDDGBn 

□aaaaaaanDGB 

BGaaaaDGaDDa 

aBGaaaooaoaa 



!_£ 



naaBGanGnaaa* [ 3 

aaGGBaaaaaoa i » 

aGGGGBGDanaD ' 

naDGaaBDaaaa 

caa iGaaBaaDa 

DaaoDa aDBaoa 

DnaDnannDBnD 

DGDanaaaaDBn 

DaaaaaDaaaaB 

BGaaaaaaaaaa 

DBaaaaanaana 

naBnaaDanaaQ 

oddbdd aanaa 

DaaaBaaaaaDa 

aaaaaBaaaaaa 

aaaGaaBaaaaQ 

DaaaGaQBaoaa 

aaaaGGnaBaag 

onaannaDaBaa 

aaGaaaaoDaBa 

aaGaaaaaGaGB 

BaaaaaDaQaoa 

OBnonaaoaaaa 

naBGanDGGGga 

naaBGQQaaaaa 

oaQQBaaaaaaa 

aaaaaBGaaaaa 

naaaGDBGGQaa 

GQaaacaBaaaa 

aaGGGaaDBaaa 

uaGaaaaDQBaa 

oGDaaaaaaaBa 

aaaaaaaaaaaB 

BGGaaaajaaaa , 

oBaao-'DDQaga 

DDBGaaaonDaa > J 

DGDBaoaaaaaQ» ^.g 



ally at 38 inches in reed, and finish at 
36 inches. 

ANALYSIS. 

1,000—2 reed; picks 54, with stop 
take-up. 



WARP AND FILLING PATTERN. 

36 ends bleach cotton. 
4 — 6 ends blue cotton mercerized. 

6 ends bleach. 
4 — 6 ends blue. 

6 ends bleach. 
4 — 6 ends blue. 
30 ends scarlet. 
12 ends green, start 12. 
4 ends black. 
2 ends bleach. 
4 — 6 ends scarlet. 
2 ends bleach. 
4 ends black. 
12 ends green, end 12. 
30 ends scarlet. 
4 — 6 ends blue. 

6 ends bleach. 
4 — 6 ends blue. 

6 ends bleach. 
4 — 6 ends blue. 

198 
14 ends extra yarn for stripe. 

184 

Fig. 3 required chain draft. 
Fig. 4 drawing-in draft. 



Ends in warp. 
708 bleach 
660 scarlet 
288 green 
396 blue 

72 scarlet 
144 black 



Ends in pattern. 
64 2-40 cotton. 
60 2-40 cotton. 
24 2-40 cotton. 
36 2-40 mercerized cotton. 

6 2-40 mercerized cotton. 

8 2-40 mercerized cotton. 



2,268 198 ends in 1 pattern. 

2,268 total ends in warp. 

The pattern shows that we have 198 
ends and picks taking up the space 
required for 184, or 14 ends and picks 
of extra yarn in each pattern require 
average picks per inch in fabric: 54 
pick wheel — 198 in place of 184; 184 : 
198 : : 54 : x equals 58 picks. 

To calculate filling material re- 
quired for 10 yards of cloth: 

PATTERN. 

64 A 

60 B 

24 C 

36 D 

6 E 

8 F 

198 

184 
38 Inches In reed. 
54 pick wheel. 



2,052 -*- by 184 = 11.15 average yards of 
yarn of colors In 1 yd. 

11.16 
10 yds. 



111.50 

6.68 6% added for waste. 



117.0J 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



655 



117.08 
64 



7,493.12 yds. of color 
7,024.80 yds. of color 
2,809.92 yds. of color 
4,214.88 yds. of color 
702.48 yds. of color 
936.64 yds. of color 



Weight 
of each 
color. 

A — 7.13 ozs. 

B — 6.66 ozs. 

C — 2.66 ozs. 

D — 4.01 ozs. 

E — .70 ozs. 

F — .90 ozs. 



22.06 ozs. of filling 
for 10 yds. 
of cloth. 
2-40s mercerized filling = 16,800 yards to 
1 pound. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
These fabrics require the use of box 
looms; a 4 x 1 or 6 x 1, or pick and 
pick loom, that is, a 4 x 4 box loom, is 
much used. If 6 colors are in the warp 
pattern, a 6 x 1 box dobby loom should 
be used. In the cheaper grade of plaids 



cotton fabrics are usually given a dry 
finish— simply run through a rotary 
press with slightly heated cylinders, 
and slightly steamed before passing 
over the cylinder of the press— after 
which they are made up into small 
rolls, then shipped. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills making the yarn for these 
fabrics will be found in either the 
first or second division of mills, as 
given in a previous article. 

The yarns of which this class of 
goods is made vary a great deal, some 
of the finer ones being combed. For 
this article we will consider the warp 




Stop Peg Check. 



a 6-color warp pattern is sometimes 
filled with only 4 colors; this neces- 
sitates that one filling color covers 
two warp colors. A little discretion 
along this line will enable the man- 
ufacturer to use a 4 x 1 box loom 
where a 6 x 1 should be used. This, 
however, is only practiced in the 
cheaper grade of fabrics. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics, if made with worsted 
are given a light scouring, then press- 
ed. In the large spot patterns the 
extra yarn that floats on the back, 
when not forming the spot, is cut off 
by means of a shearing machine. The 



and filling to be carded 2-40s yarn 
made from a 1 3-16-inch staple peeler 
cotton of a good grade. The raw stock 
is mixed by hand, although, if done 
by a bale breaker, it is better, as has 
been before stated; especially is this 
true in rainy or muggy weather. The 
mixings should be as large as possible 
and the hands mixing the cotton 
should break the bale into as small 
parts as possible. 

IN HAND MIXING 

several bales should be opened at 
once, and the cotton from each mixed 
together. At this point the sliver 
waste is mixed in with the raw stock. 



556 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



This should be thoroughly spread over 
the entire mixing. The cotton is put 
through an opener and three proc- 
esses of picking. Always keep hopper 
of opener more than half filled with 
cotton, so as to obtain as even a feed 
as possible. 

After passing through the opener 
the cotton is fed on to an endless lat- 
tice, which carries it to the feed rolls 
of the breaker picker. These con- 
dense the cotton and present it to the 
action of the beater. This beater is 
generally the two-bladed rigid type 
of beater and its speed is 1,550 revolu- 
tions per minute. Look at the 

GRID BARS 

to see that they are properly spread 
and the dirt is going through them 
and not being drawn into the cotton 
again after being knocked out by the 
beater. Do not allow the dirt to col- 
lect under picker, especially under the 
grid bars, as it is liable to be drawn 
into the cleaned cotton by the draft. 
The total weight of lap at the front of 
the breaker is 40 pounds or a 16%- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the intermediate picker and doubled 4 
into 1. This picker is also generally 
provided with a two-bladed rigid type 
of beater, whose speed is 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front of this picker 
is 38 pounds, or a 12% -ounce lap. 
These laps are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at 
this point that the 

CUT-ROVING WASTE 
is mixed in. If the mill contains a 
cut-roving waste picker the propor- 
tion of_ mixing is as follows: Three 
laps raw stock to one lap cut roving. 
If, however, there is no such machine, 
the two center laps are taken out and 
the cut roving spread evenly over the 
surface of the last lap. This will, of 
course, bring the waste between two 
laps of raw stock. The beater of this 
machine is a rigid, two-bladed beater 
and makes 1,450 revolutions per min- 
ute, which gives the cotton passing 
through the machine 41% beats per 
minute. The total weight of this lap 
at the front is 36% pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap. The variation allowed for 



this kind of work is one-half pound 
either side of standard. Laps weigh- 
ing over or under this variation are 
put back to be run over again. These 
laps are put up 

AT THE CARD. 

This card should have a draft of not 
less than 100. The end is set for me- 
dium work and uses the medium count 
of wire fillet for wiring doffer flats 
and cylinders. Set the doffer (which 
should be as large as possible) from 
the cylinder with a 7-1,000-inch gauge. 
The flats of the cards should make 
one complete revolution every 45 min- 
utes. The cards should be cleaned 
thoroughly twice a day and the front 
wiped off many times more, to keep 
fly from falling back into good work. 
Strips should be collected at regular 
intervals which should not be so long 
apart as to allow the fly to accumulate 
so that it is liable to fall over on the 
doffer or be drawn up into the flats. 
This it cannot do if cards are equipped 
with a waste roll. The sliver at the 
front should weigh 60 grains per yard 
and the production should be about 750 
pounds for a week of 60 hours. Strip 
cards three times a day (twice in 
morning and once in afternoon) and 
grind all over once every three weeks. 

DRAWING. 
The cotton is next put through 
three processes of drawing frames. 
These frames may be equipped with 
leather top rolls or metallic top rolls. 
If the former, be sure to see that the 
rolls are well covered and in perfect 
condition and well varnished. The 
frames should at least receive a set 
of front top rolls every week. The 
speed of the front roll should be about 
350 revolutions per minute. The frames 
may be equipped with metallic rolls 
to good advantage and, if they are, 
care should be taken to keep the flutes 
free from dirt of all kinds. The weight 
of the drawing sliver at the front of 
the finisher drawing frame should be 
75 grains per yard. The cans of sliv- 
er are put up to the slubber and 
spun into .50 hank roving. Varnish 
the front loose top rolls of the slubber. 
The other sets of top rolls may also 
be varnished, but they are not so im- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



557 



portant. Keep rolls properly covered, 
oiled and weighted. Look out to see 
that no cut work is being made. After 
passing through the slubber the cot- 
ton is put through three processes of 

FLY FRAMES 

and made into the following hank rov- 
ing: At each first intermediate, 1.50; 
second intermediate or roving frame, 
4, and jack frame 8 hank. Be careful 
to see that proper twist is being put in, 
just enough so that the roving will not 
break back at the succeeding process. 
The method of finding the standard for 
twist has been given in a previous ar- 
ticle. Another point is to see that 
the tension is right, because, if it is 
too much, the roving will be apt to be 
strained, while, if too slack, a soft 
bobbin will be made. Keep top leath- 
er rolls in good condition, as well as 
spindles well oiled for good roving. 
After having passed the fiy frames 
the roving is taken to the 

RING SPINNING FRAME 

and spun into 40s yarn. If spun on a 
warp frame, use a frame having a 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 6%-inch trav- 
erse, twist per inch of 28.46, and spin- 
dle speed of 10,000 revolutions per 
minute. If spun on a filling frame 
use a frame having a l^-inch diam- 
eter ring, 5% -inch traverse, twist of 
23.72 and spindle speed of 8,800 revo- 
lutions per minute. The yarn is next 
twisted into 2 ply at the twister and 
then the warp yarn is run on a chain 
warper; from here it is taken and 
dyed, after which it has to be warped 
again on a beam. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Following are the dyeing particulars 
on cotton yarn and mercerized yarn: 

SCARLET. 

Four per cent direct scarlet A; 30 
per cent common salt. 

MAROON. 

Three and one-half per cent direct 
maroon B.; 30 per cent common salt. 



PINK. 

Three-quarters per cent direct pink 
7 B.; 20 per cent salt. 

YELLOW. 

Three per cent chromine G.; 30 per 
cent salt. 

GREEN. 

One and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine green 4 B.; 25 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Four per cent naphtamine blue 2 B. ; 
30 per cent salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent naphtamine brown 
N cone; Vz per cent naphtamine yel- 
low N N cone; 20 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 

One per cent diamine sky blue F F.; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

ORANGE. 
One per cent naphtamine orange O.; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT OLIVE. 
Three-quarters per cent direct olive 
R.; % per cent naphtamine yellow N 
N cone; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

BROWN. 
One per cent naphtamine brown 6 
B.; 2 per cent naphtamine yellow N 
N.; 30 per cent salt. 

SLATE. 
One and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine black N.; 20 per cent salt. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 
Five per cent naphtamine black 2 
G.; 1 per cent naphtamine yellow N 
N.; 30 per cent salt. 

BLACK. 
Five per cent naphtamine black D.; 
30 per cent salt. 

HELIOTROPE. 
One-quarter per cent heliotrope B 
B.; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

ECRU. 
One ounce naphtamine brown N.; 2 
ounces naphtamine yellow N N.; 20 
per cent salt. 



558 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



TARTANS 



Tartans, also termed tartan plaids, 
or Scotch plaids, are highly colored 
fabrics, the distinguishing effect being 
large plaid or check effects formed by 
two or more colors of warp and filling, 
more particularly containing such 
prominent colors as red, yellow, blue, 
orange, green, purple, primary and 
secondary colors and other showy col- 
ors, to a greater or less degree. Pure 
blacks and whites are also used. 

THE MATERIALS 
used are yarn dyed. The weaves 
used are usually the plain, ? — . twill 
I basket, I twill, 3 basket, 

2 3 3 

and rearrangements of or combina- 
tions of these weaves, which distri- 
bute the warp and filling in equal pro- 
portions on both sides while retaining 
a firm structure of cloth. 

The Mayo or Campbell weave, Fig. 
1, and the 6-end twill and 6 -end bas- 



aZBDDBHH 


obocibbob 


boqbdobb 


■naanma 


Hnassflaaa 


i;naHDDM 


QBDDBBBa 


BDHD3DEQ 


UiBBODID 


DDBBOBOB 


DDB*«aa« 


BOBOBOBD 


HBaaHaav 


BBQBDBDD 


■■■□didg 


BJBDBaBO 



Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 

ket are used for the finer grades of 
goods. 

Tartans, although sometimes made 
with cotton yarns, are more extensive- 
ly made with worsted. They are also 
made with other fibres. 

References to tartans being used for- 
wearing apparel are found in litera- 
ture, dating back to the 15th century. 

At the present time tartans are used, 
as of old, for ladies' dress goods, and 
also for a certain type of garment for 
men, well known where Scotchmen 
have found their way. 

The word tartan is of doubtful ori- 
gin, some historians claiming one and 
some another. For several hundred 
years it has been connected with 
cloths made and worn principally by 
people in the Scottish highlands. 

The Highlanders were formerly di- 
vided into sections, or clans, each of 
which had its own special tartan, the 
latter varying in the arrangement of 



colors, or of the colors themselves, or 
of both, from those used by the other 
clans. | ' 

The Scottish clans and their tartans 
have been ably and extensively dealt 
with in literature, books having been 
published on the subject, to which the 
reader is referred for more detailed in- 
formation. In some of these publica- 
tions the illustrations show the princi- 
pal tartans in their several colors. 

A collection of tartans of good qual- 
ity is one of the best aids in studying 
the pure color combinations that can 
be obtained. 

It is said that the tartan, no matter 
of what colors or arrangement of col- 
ors the plaid may be composed, signi- 
fies the brotherhood of the various 
Scottish clans. 

THE SIMPLEST FORM 
of tartan is in two colors, arranged so 
many ends in one color and an equal 
number of ends of another color in the 
warp, the arrangement of filling be- 
ing similar to the warp, making blocks 
of equal size. 

The combinations of colors, or ar- 
rangements of yarns, may vary as de- 
sired. 

From this base an infinite variety 
of variations can be made; 4, 5 and 6- 
color tartans are commonly made. 

In a tartan made in six colors, red, 
yellow, blue, green, black and white, 
with the exception of the yellow and 
white ends, which work - — , the 
weave is as shown in Fig. 2. 

A tartan with a prominent weave 
effect, as in this instance, is something 
unusual. The idea here seems to have 
been to get a stripe effect. 

To produce said tartan, 16 harnesses 
would be required, 8 for the ground, 
6 for the warp float and 2 for the 
selvages. The sections working ! — . 
work in 8-end sateen order; the larg- 
est contains 6 ends, therefore 6 har- 
nesses only are required. 

Being a fabric characterized by col- 
or effect, tartans are made to vary in 
quality, width, weight and finish to a 
considerable degree, according to re- 
quirements. In cotton goods they are 
usually developed in medium counts 
or yarn, from say 20s to 40s. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



559 



One requisite for weaving tartan fab- 
rics is a loom with two or more shut- 
tle boxes at one end. For almost all 
of the patterns a single box will an- 
swer at the other end. 

The harness motion of the loom will 
differ according to the weave requir- 
ed. For a plain weave tartan, an or- 
dinary 2-cam gingham loom will an- 
swer; in fact, about the only differ- 
ence between a tartan and a gingham 
is that the colors of the former are 
brighter than those of the latter, and 
yarns of only one count are generally 
used, one warp only being required, 
whereas in a gingham it is quite com- 
mon to have yarns of varying counts 
in both warp and filling. 

A tartan plaid is also larger, as a 
rule, tban a gingham check. 

A cam box loom would also suffice 
for weaving 4-harness twill and de- 
rivative weaves, although it might be 
preferable in the case of the latter to 
use a dobby loom on account of the 
cross drawing in that would be neces- 
sary. 

For fancy weave tartans, which are 
in the minority, a box loom with a dob- 
by head is required. 



LONG CLOTH 



Long cloth is a fine cotton fabric 
of superior quality, made with a fine 
grade of cotton yarn of a medium 
twist. Originally, the fabric was man- 
ufactured in England and subsequent- 
ly imitated in the United States. 

The fabric is used exclusively for 
lingerie and long dresses for infants, 
from which it has apparently derived 
its name. 

Long cloth to some extent resembles 
such fabrics as batiste, fine grades of 
muslin, India linen and cambrics. It 
is distinguished from these fabrics by 
the closeness of its weave and when 
finished, the fabric possesses a whiter 
appearance, due to the closeness of 
the weave and the soft twist yarn. The 
fabric, while possessing fair weaving 
qualities, is, however, not used as a 
dress fabric, chiefly because of its fin- 
ished appearance, which is similar 
in all respects to fabrics we have 



been accustomed to see that are used 
solely for lingerie, night gowns, etc. 
Long cloth, like the fabrics enu- 
merated above, is made in a variety of 
grades or qualities. It is a very com- 
mon thing in textile manufacturing to 
vary the grade of a fabric; not sim 
ply because the manufacturer loves to 
do so, but because of necessity, com- 
petition, etc. 

THE SOLE PURPOSE 
of the manufacturer is to produce a 
fabric that will sell and in order for 
a fabric to sell, it must be attractive 
and reasonable in price; the price 
which a manufacturer can command 
determines precisely how he must con- 
struct any fabric which he may offer 
to the consumer; if he finds, for in- 
stance, that long cloth is more sal- 
able at 12% cents a yard than at 15 
cents, it follows that lje must make it 
at the former price. In order to make 
it profitable at 12% cents per yard he 
must either use a cheaper grade of 
yarn or make a slightly lighter fab- 
ric, by using a fine count of yarn, 
which will produce more yards of 
cloth per pound of yarn; thus are 
brought about the various grades and 
qualities of fabrics. 

The public is sometimes badly mis- 
taken when it imagines jt buys pre- 
cisely the same fabric at 12% cents 
which some other concern is offering 
at 15 cents per yard. 

Following is an 

ANALYSIS OF A FABRIC 
which sells at 15 cents per yard. 

Width of warp in reed, including sel- 
vages, 37% inches. Width of fabric fin 
ished, 36 inches; ends per inch fin- 
ished, 100; ends per inch in reed, 96; 
ends in warp without selvages, 3,600; 
ends in selvages, 40; total ends in 
warp, 3,640. 

Take-up of warp in weaving 8 per 
cent; weight of finished fabric 2.5 
ounces; warp all l-50s cotton; filling 
all l-60s cotton. 

Picks per inch finished, 88. 

Picks per inch in loom, 90. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

A factor of supreme importance in 
the production of light cotton fabrics 
is the loom facilities available; such 



560 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



fabrics as long cloth and fabrics close- 
ly allied in character are woven most 
profitably on high-speed looms, or an 
automatic loom. 
Long cloth is but a plain woven fab- 

dbububub 

■onznunzi 

DBDBGIDB 

mamamama 

DBDBDBUB 
BDBDBDBD 



BDBQBDBQ 



DBDBai 

~^bqb: 

Fig. 1 

OODODOOB 

DDDLlDnBa 
DDaaCBDG 

noaumnaa 

DDDBDDDD 
DDBDODDD 
DBDnDDDa 
*DDDDDna 

ric (Fig. 1 design; Fig. 2 drawing-in 
draft) and is usually woven with eight 
harnesses, owing to the number of 
ends per inch, which would overcrowd 
the heddles and cause the yarn to 
chafe and break if less harnesses were 
used. The yarn is sized before the 
warp is beamed. The sizing is merely 
to strengthen the yarn. For light siz- 
ing it is not necessary to use anything 
but wheat flour, farina, or sago and a 
small quantity of softening material, 
usually tallow or wax. 

FINISHING. 

After the fabric is woven it is sent 
to the bleaching house. The first 
process is to boil it, then it is bleach- 
ed. After the bleaching process the 
fabric is subjected to a very light siz- 
ing. The most prominent of the siz- 
ing ingredients is the softening mate- 
rial used, which may be glycerine, 
paraffine, cocoa oil, olive oil or bees' 
or Japan wax. 

After the fabric is sized it is run 
through a rotary press, the cylinders 
of which are only slightly heated, with 
equally as little pressure on the fabric. 
The cloth is then folded, after which it 
is ready for the market. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for this fabric are made 
in the second division of mills, as giv- 
en in a previous article. Long cloth is 
also sometimes made in the better 
equipped mills of the first division. 
The raw stock used is generally Allen 
or peeler cotton, the average length 



of staple of which does not exceed 
IVi inches in length. In some grades 
of long cloth the filling yarn is comb- 
ed, but as it is the more general cus- 
tom to use a carded yarn, we will 
work on this basis. Make the mixings 
as large as possible. After being mix- 
ed the cotton is put through three 
processes of picking and an opener. 
Keep the opener hopper 

WELL FILLED, 

so that the pin beater will always 
have to strike some of it back. A well- 
filled spiked lifting apron means an 
even amount of cotton being fed to 
the breaker picker and therefore -a 
more even breaker lap. For this class 
of cotton a three-bladed, rigid type of 
beater is best. The speed of this beat- 
er should be about 1,050 revolutions 
per minute, as this class of cotton is 
generally very dirty and requires an 
extra amount of beating in the break- 
er and intermediate pickers so as to 
get a good, clean lap. The weight of 
lap at the front of the breaker picker 
should be 40y 2 pounds. These laps are 
put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the 
intermediate picker. The beater used 
on this picker, to get good results, 
should be a two-bladed, rigid type, the 
speed of which should be 1 : 500 revolu- 
tions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front should be 38 pounds 
or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put 
up at the intermediate picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. It is at this picker 
that the 

CUT -ROVING WASTE 
is mixed in in the proportion of three 
laps raw stock to one lap roving 
waste. If the mills are not provided 
with a roving picker, the third lap is 
taken out and the roving fed on top 
of the sheet that comes from the 
fourth lap. Do not use too much 
waste, because it tends to make split 
laps which cause trouble in licking and 
making single at the card. The beater 
of the finisher picker is generally a 
two-bladed, rigid type, the speed of 
which should be about 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight of 
the lap at the front should be 36 
pounds or a 13-ounce lap. A variation 
of one-half pound, either standard, is 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



661 



allowed for this work. The cotton 
passing through the finisher picker re- 
ceives 42 beats or blows per inch. Put 
these laps up 

AT THE CARD 

which should have wire fillet for spin- 
ning medium counts of yarn. The 
draft of this machine should not ex- 
ceed 115. The speed of the licker-in 
is 375 revolutions per minute and the 
flats make one complete revolution 
every 50 minutes. The percentage of 
waste and fiy taken out is about 3.75 
to 4. Use medium settings and be 
sure that the feed plate is not set too 
close so as to break the staple. The 
cards should be stripped as follows: 
Three times for cylinders and four 
for doffers per day. Grind cards all 
over at least once every three weeks, 
lightly, and set after having ground. 
The weight of the sliver at the front 
should be 60 grains per yard. The 
production on this class of goods 
should be 700 to 750 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. This sliver is put through 
three processes of drawing frames 
which may be either equipped with 
metallic or leather- covered top rolls. 
If leather top rolls are used a good re- 
ceipt for 

VARNISH, 
which differs from those already giv- 
en, follows: 8 ounces best flake glue, 
8 ounces ground or flake gelatine, 3 
pints acetic acid, 1 pound burnt or raw 
sienna, 1 ounce oil of origanum. In 
many mills trouble is often found with 
the laps of the leather rolls breaking 
or splitting apart when varnish is first 
put on. If the laps are painted with 
formaldehyde, using a fine brush for 
the purpose, it will be found to over- 
come this trouble. This not only ap- 
plies to drawing frame top leather 
rolls but to all leather rolls that have 
to be varnished. 

ANOTHER POINT 
to look out for is when sending rolls 
away to be covered, all waste should 
be removed from the bearings, for, if 
this is not done, a rust spot will be 
on them when they are returned from 
the roll coverer. On the drawing 
frame on this class of work it will be 
found advantageous to use metallic 



top rolls. If used, keep the flutes 
clean and smooth. The speed of the 
front roll should be 375 revolutions 
per minute on all processes. The 
doublings are 6 into 1 and the weight 
of sliver at the front is 70 grains per 
yard. Size the drawing frames at 
least three times a day. The sliver is 
next put up at the slubber and made 
into .55 hank roving. From here it is 
put through three processes of fly 
frames and made into 11.50 hank rov- 
ing at the jack frames. The hank rov- 
ing at the different processes is as fol- 
lows: First, 1.50; second, 4 and fine, 
11.50. From here it is taken to the 
ring spinning room and spun into 50s 
yarn on a warp frame having a 2%- 
inch gauge, 1^-inch diameter ring, 6- 
inch traverse, 31.81 twist per inch and 
a spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions 
per minute. From here it is spooled 
and warped and the required number 
of beams put up at the slasher to give 
sufficient end for the warp at the 
front. A good slasher size is as fol- 
lows: Water, 100 gallons; potato 
starch, 65 pounds; tallow, 6 pounds; 
Yorkshire gum, three pounds; soap 
(white) two pounds. Boil 1| hours. 

For the filling yarn the roving is 
spun into 60s on. a frame having 2%- 
inch gauge, l x /± diameter ring, 5 -inch 
traverse, 27 twist per inch and spin- 
dle speed of 8,000 revolutions per min- 
ute. This yarn should be conditioned 



BUCKRAM 

Buckram may be described as a 
coarse, glue-sized fabric made with 
cotton, linen, hemp or cotton and hair, 
the name in most cases being acquired 
by the finish which the fabric receives 
after it is woven. Some qualities of 
buckram are but plain woven cotton 
fabrics. 

Buckram is used principally for 
stiffening garments, being much in de- 
mand by tailors, who use the fabric 
for stiffening and to give shape or 
form to a garment. The fabric is in- 
serted between the lining and the sur- 
face cloth of the garment in particular 
parts, such as the lapel, cuff or wher- 
ever the shape of the garment is es- 
sential to its appearance. Buckram is 



562 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



manufactured in several kinds; the 
fabric used for men's wear is usually 
made with linen, hemp or hair and 
cotton; the latter combination, name- 
ly, hair and cotton, is supposed to be 
the best, in so far that when bent or 
twisted it will spring back to its origi- 
nal position; this feature cannot be at- 
tributed to hemp or linen. The hair 
and cotton buckram is a loosely wo- 
ven fabric, the hair figuring as warp, 
and the cotton as filling. It is usually 
woven in plain twills or herring- 
bone weave. The filling is usually two 

nmaGaaannannsEgncBDaaa 
DDBaaaoaaaiiaaBBaDMciaaa 

GBBGGBBGaBBBaaBaaGBBaa 
DBBaaBBaOBflBQQBBDDBBaa 

BflaaBaaDBBUBBJiLBKaaafla 

■ BDDBBJD«J*D«l«CCBBJLBBa 
■nDBaaOBBUDJBiGLBBaLBB 

maiuajamaauoBU gbb^gbb 

maaaCIBHJOH^LilfcQCBBQOB 
DDBBDDQ-iJD-iCDkBC CBBGGB 
OBaaaBaznHBttDLBBCDEBDO 
□ B3.JQBBDQHH PDCHEDDBBDa 
MJJHXWDDa^ GBBDGBBG 
■ IGGBBGGaaDH HDDBBDCBBD 

BGaaaaaaBanaBBDCBBDCBB 
■DaBMGziBa^nnaBDCBBncBB 

DDBBaGBaGDHaDKBa BBDDB 
aDBBaOBB~!nB~GBBCGBBDOB 
DBBnaBWDDBBBDDBrDC BBGG 

aaacoBBaoinBsa^BBi gbbgg 
b*ggbb DBBnBBDn«e*nGBan 
BanGBBGGBBaaBrnr:a'":GHBa 
b iGBBaaaB^co*«HPGt?a , "aBB 

BGGBBGGBBGGGBBnGBBGGBB 

Fig. 1. 

nOBBDGBB 

BBGGBBGG 
nGBBGGBB 

BBGGBBGQ 
D1BBGGBB 
BBGGBBGG 
DDBBGGBB 

BBGGBBGG 

Fig. 2. 

picks in one shed. (See Fig. 1, design.) 
Buckram also figures largely in the 
millinery trade, where it is made up 
into hats. These hats are covered with 
chenille, plumes, flowers or whatever 
finery may be desired. 

The buckram used for this purpose 
is a plain woven cotton fabric heavily 
sized, increasing its weight from 50 
to 100 per cent. The odd feature of 
millinery buckram is that two sep- 
arate fabrics are made into one during 
the finishing process by means of glu- 
ing or sizing them together; these 
two fabrics are of different texture. 
The top or face fabric closely resem- 
bles a fine cotton voile, while the back 
or bottom fabric might be termed a 
coarse tarlatan. 

Millinery buckram is a piece-dyed 
fabric, usually in somber colors, such 
as dark red, garnet, dark green and 



black. In the hair and cotton fabric, 
which is principally used for men's 
wear, the cotton is dyed before it is 
woven. 

COTTON BUCKRAM ANALYSIS. 

Face or top fabric: Width of warp 
in reed, 38 inches; width of fabric fin- 
ished, 36 inches; ends per inch fin- 
ished, 40; ends per inch in reed, 38; 
ends in warp, 1,440; 19 x 2 reed; take- 
up of warp during weaving, 8 per cent; 
warp, l-22s cotton; filling, l-26s cot- 
ton; 34 picks per inch; weight from 
loom, 2.22 ounces. 

Back or bottom fabric: Width of 
warp in reed, 41 inches; width of fab- 
ric finished, 36 inches; ends per inch 
finished, 16; ends per inch in reed, 14; 
ends in warp, 576; ends selvage, 24; 
total ends in warp, 600; 14 x 1 reed; 
take-up of warp during weaving, 5 per 
cent; warp, l-12s cotton; filling, l-10s 
cotton; 12 picks per inch; weight of 
fabric from loom, 1.86 ounces. 

Weight of two fabrics after finish- 
ing, as one, 6.38 ounces; nearly 60 per 
cent added by sizing materials. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These fabrics may be woven on any 
light-built loom, the speed of which 
should be from 150 to 170 picks per 
minute. The warp for face fabrics is 
usually drawn on eight harnesses; the 
back fabric may be drawn in on four 
harnesses in the order of: 1, 3, 2, 4. 
The chain, if a dobby loom is used, 
must be built accordingly. (Fig. 2.) 
Chain required: 2 repeats. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics, as previously men- 
tioned, depend a great deal on the 
finishing which they receive. The 
men's wear buckram requires less siz- 
ing by reason of the strenuous ordeal 
to which it is subjected in the fulfill- 
ment of its purposes, and also because 
the warp, which is composed of hair, 
is in itself quite stiff. 

Millinery buckram requires more at- 
tention. After the fabrics are woven, 
they are dyed; the finisher then must 
observe that the fabrics finish the 
same width, so that when sized or 
glued together one fabric will not ex- 
tend beyond the other. To insure that 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



btio 



the fabrics lie evenly, they are stitch- 
ed at the selvages by means of a sew- 
ing machine. 

The fabrics are then subjected to 
the sizing process, with the back cloth 
to the roller, which revolves in the 
size; this allows the size to penetrate 
more readily, as the meshes of the 
back cloth are larger than the meshes 
of face fabric; the fabric is usually 
subjected two or three times in suc- 
cession before it is finally dried. 

The ingredients used in sizing are 
glue, flour and "China clay. These in- 
gredients are used in various propor- 
tions, the following being an example: 
40 parts glue, 20 parts clay, 40 parts 
flour. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns which make up buckram 
vary according to the quality of fab- 
ric, but, generally speaking, the yarns 
are what are called coarse. The yarns 
of this class of goods would be made 
in mills of the first division as given 
in a previous lesson. In coarse yarns 
quantity is the end sought for rather 
than quality. Of course, this does not 
mean that everything is dropped for 
quantity, but that as great a produc- 
tion as possible is made at each ma- 
chine and still get the desired quality 
for the class of goods being made. In 
fact, the machines are set to produce 
this result. For this article we will 
consider the buckram to be what is 
called "cotton buckram" and made up 
of all-cotton yarn. Other kinds of 
buckram are made which have only 
one or both filling and warp back 
yarns of cotton fibre. The latter are 
made up of very coarse counts of 
yarns, generally about l-10s. Cotton 
buckram is made up of finer yarns, 
and for this article we will consider 
the count to be l-22s for the warp and 
l-26s for the filling yarns. Both these 
yarns are made up of the same staple 
cotton, generally a low grade of Amer- 
ican cotton being used of about three- 
quarters-inch staple. 

MIXINGS. 
Waste is sometimes mixed with the 
raw stock, but we will consider that 
only good sliver waste is to be mixed 



with the raw stock. Large mixings are 
made by hand, generally enough to 
last a week or longer if the mixing bin 
is large enough. Mixing is done in 
the same manner as in the case of 
finer grades of cotton, making as uni- 
form a mixing as possible, so that all 
the bales of cotton used will be dis- 
tributed throughout the mixing. For 
this class of goods an opener and 
three processes of picking are used. 
The speed of the breaker picker, 
which generally has three blades and 
is of a rigid type, is 1,550 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of the 
lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap. These laps are doubled four 
into one at the intermediate picker 
This picker is provided with a two- 
bladed, rigid type of beater, the speed 
of which is 1,550 revolutions per min- 
ute. The total weight of the lap at the 
front is 39 pounds or a 14-ounce lap. 
The laps from the intermediate picker 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. This picker is 
also provided with a two-bladed beat- 
er of a rigid type, the speed of which 
is 1,500 revolutions per minute. Great 
care should be taken to see that the 
cotton mixing is free from all foreign 
substances, for, if the beaters should 
strike any hard substances while go- 
ing at this rate of speed, a spark is 
sure to be struck, which may cause 
considerable damage. The total weight 
of the laps at the finisher picker is 38 
pounds, or a 14-ounce lap. A variation 
of 10 ounces either side of the stand 
ard weight is allowed for this class of 
goods; all laps varying more than this 
are run through the finisher picker 
again. 

THE CARD. 

The laps are put up at the card, 
which is covered with a coarse wire 
fillet on doffer, flats and cylinder, the 
wire on the cylinder being gauged 
coarser than that used for the doffer 
and top flats. The draft of the card 
should not exceed 85 and the speed of 
the flats should be one complete revo- 
lution in 60 minutes on a 110 top flat 
card. The cards should be stripped 
four times a day and ground once a 
month. For this class of work look 
out for the doffer comb to see that it 



564 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



is set right and is making the correct 
number of vibrations to clean the dof- 
fer. The production of the card is 900 
pounds or even 975 pounds for a week 
of 60 hours with a 70-grain sliver. The 
sliver is put through two processes of 
drawing frames. 

THE DRAWING FRAMES 
for this class of work are generally, 
although not always, equipped with 
metallic top rolls. Keep the flutes 
cleaned and the rolls well oiled. If 
leather top rolls are used, keep them 
well varnished, using a little heavier 
varnish than the recipe given in the 
article on long cloth. The weight of 
the sliver at the finisher drawing is 
75 grains per yard. The doublings at 
the drawings are 8 into 1. This sliver 
is put through the slubber and made 
into .40 hank roving. This is then put 
through two processes of fly frames. 
At the first it is made into 1.00 hank 
roving and at the second 2.50 hank. 
Look out to see that the full bobbins 
are properly shaped and that the 
frames are changing right, so that the 
roving will not run over or under, as 
this will make a great deal of un 
necessary waste. The roving is taken 
to the 

RING SPINNING ROOM 
and spun into 22s warp yarn on a 
frame with a 2|-inch traverse, 2 -inch 
diameter ring, 7-inch traverse, 22.28 
twist per inch and spindle speed of 
9,500 revolutions per minute. This 
yarn is spooled and warped and these 
beams put up behind a slasher and 
sized and run on a beam at the front, 
on which the required number of ends 
are run. The filling yarn is spun in- 
to 26s on a frame having 2f-inch 
gauge, 11-inch diameter ring, 6-inch 
traverse, 17.84 twist per inch (3.25 x 
square root of count) and a spindle 
speed of 8,000 revolutions per minute. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
The goods are piece dyed on the 
Jigs or padding machines with one-dip 
colors. 

BLACK. 
5 per cent oxydiamine black AK. ; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 



Navy blues are also dyed in the 
same manner. The goods are very 
heavily starched with dextrine or an- 
imal glues of various kinds. The goods 
are run through a starch mangle, or 
starched by hand in a tub, and dried 
on a tenter frame. The starching 
process is repeated until a sufficient 
stiffness is obtained. 

STARCH SOLUTION. 

1 gallon water, 10 ounces dextrine, 
mixed cold and boiled for one hour. 
The addition of a little color, to color 
the starch, is sometimes required. 



INDIGO PRINTS 

Indigo print cloth is one of the 
standard types of cotton fabrics that 
are run with more or less success all 
the time, no matter what the trend of 
fashion or style may be. 

An indigo print is distinguished 
from a regular print by having a print- 
ed figure, of any desirable type or de- 
sign, on a solid indigo blue ground,.the 
latter varying in depth of shade, ac- 
cording to requirements, whereas the 
ground of an ordinary print cloth pat- 
tern is white or a light color. 

An indigo print pattern is obtained 
by one of 

THREE METHODS: 
indigo blotch printing, indigo dis- 
charge printing or indigo resist print- 
ing. 

The basis of an indigo print may be 
any of the many types of plain cot- 
ton fabrics, according to weight and 
fineness desired, although what is 
known as a standard print cloth is 
generally used. 

A "STANDARD PRINT" 
is supposed to be constructed as fol- 
lows: 28s warp, 36s filling, 28 inches 
wide, 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 7 
yards per pound. 

28 inches x 64 ends per inch equals 
1,792 ends in the warp, not allowing 
extras for selvages. 

As a matter of fact, a great many so- 
called standard prints made in Fall 
River, the center of the print cloth in- 
dustry, contain only 1,720 ends in the 
warp and 62 picks per inch in the fill- 
ing. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



565 



In . New Bedford print cloths 
are made from yarns two num- 
bers finer than the above, being 
made of 30s warp and 38s filling. 
There are 1,790 ends in the warp and 
62 or 63 picks per inch in the filling. 

Another print cloth made in Fall 
River is 28 inches wide and contains 
28s warp, 32s filling, 64 x 64 (shy). 
The weight is 6.44 yards per pound. 

Although 28 inches is the usual 
width of these goods, they are also 
made in 

OTHER WIDTHS, 
generally wider. A certain wide Fall 
River print is constructed as follows: 
34s warp, 36s filling, 46 inches wide, 
56 ends and 52 picks per inch, 5.4 
yards per pound. 

On account of the large number of 
standard print fabrics used, by far the 
largest quantity of any type of cot- 
ton fabric made, many mills are run 
on these goods entirely. 

THE LOOM REQUIRED 
for weaving print cloths is of the or- 
dinary plain 2-harness cam type. 
From a general consideration of the 
subject it would appear that the au- 
tomatic looms would be the most eco- 
nomical to use. 

With a plain loom the drawing-in 
and reeding plans are similar to those 
previously explained when considering 
other plain, weave goods — skip shaft, 
draw on two twine harnesses, which is 
equal to 4 wire heddle harnesses, reed 
2 ends per dent; selvage end, double. 

In consequence of the colors or de- 
sign of a print cloth being the princi- 
pal salable features of the cloth, and 
those that appear to the eye the most 
readily, more attention is paid to 
quantity than quality when weaving 
them, the idea being that the printing 
and finishing processes will obliterate, 
or at least reduce, any cloth structural 
defects that may be made in the loom. 
Cloth defects are allowed to pass for 
prints that would not be allowed, only 
as second quality goods, to be finished 
by any of the other cotton finishing 
processes. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 
The mills which make yarn used for 
print cloth comprise the larger per- 



centage of all the mills and would be- 
long to the first division of mills, as 
given in a previous article. While tht> 
equipment of machinery is about the 
same in all mills making yarns for 
print cloth, still they differ in a great 
many cases as to the number of proc- 
esses used. For example, one mill 
uses two processes of drawing and an 
extra process of fly frames; another 
may use a railway head and cut out 
one process of drawing, some mills 
using this machine before the drawing 
frame and some after. Some mills 
may only use two processes of pickers 
and an opener, whereas other mills 
use three processes. 

ANOTHER FEATURE 

about mills making print cloth yarns 
is that there is very little if any 
changing, according to the usual cus- 
tom; as one overseer puts it, one set 
of gears is nailed on when the ma- 
chine is started and left on until 
worn out, when another set of the 
same number of teeth is substituted 
for the old ones. In this article it will 
be the general machines and number 
of processes which will be given, for 
carding and spinning the standard 
print yarns, 28s warp and 36s filling. 
First comes the mixing, which may be 
done either by hand or by machine 
(bale breaker). The usual methods 
that have been explained in previous 
articles may be followed. Next the 
sliver waste from the different proc- 
esses up to the slubber is mixed in at 
the bins or is sometimes placed in the 
hopper of the feeder and fed to it a lit- 
tle at a time along with the raw stock. 

PICKERS. 
After passing the opener the cotton 
is put through three processes of pick- 
ers, the beaters used on all three be- 
ing generally the two-bladed, rigid 
type. The speed of these beaters at 
the different processes is as follows: 
Breaker, 1,500 revolutions per minute; 
intermediate and finishers, 1,450 revo- 
lutions per minute. The beats per inch 
at the finisher picker should be 40 to 
43 for this staple cotton. The total 
weight of the laps is as follows: 
Breaker, 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap; 
intermediate, 38 pounds or a 10 -ounce 



566 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



lap; finisher, 39 pounds or a 14%- 
ounce lap. 

A variation from tlie total stand?? ri 
weight of the lap of half a pon d 
either side Is allowed. All laps weigh- 
ing more or less are »"jn through the 
finisher picker again. The doublings 
at the last two processes are 4 into 1. 
Mix cut -roving t <ste at finisher proc- 
ess. 

THE CARDS 
are set for coarse work, and while 
there are still many of the old style 
American cards in use, for this ar- 
ticle the newer card or the English 
card is much used, particulars of 
which will be given. The speed of the 
cylinder is 160 to 165 revolutions per 
minute; the licker-in, 350 revolutions 
per minute. The feed plate should be 
set to the licker-in one-eighth inch 
longer than the staple of the cotton, 
i. e., from bite of feed roll to licker-in 
teeth, and the feed plate should have 
a fairly pointed nose. The licker-in 
should be set with a 10-l,000ths inch 
gauge from cylinder wire. The back 
side of cylinder screen should be set 
l-32d of an inch away from cylinder 
wire, directly underneath (in center), 
with a 28-l,000ths inch gauge and at 
the front one-quarter inch away from 
cylinder wire. The doffer should be 
set to the cylinder loose to a 5-l,000ths 
inch gauge ; the doffer comb set with a 
12-l,000ths inch gauge from doffer 
wire; the top flats to cylinder wire 
with a 10-l,000ths inch gauge and the 
back and front knife plates should be 
set the same as for leno cotton fabrics. 
The top flats make one complete rev- 
olution every 45 minutes. Strip three 
times a day and grind as before stat- 
ed. The production for a week of 
60 hours is 750 to 850 pounds. The 
weight of the sliver is 65 grains per 
yard. This sliver is next put through 
three processes of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 
the speed of the front roll being 400 
revolutions per minute. Use either 
metallic or leather-covered top rolls. 
The advantages of both kinds have 
been given previously. The weight 
per yard of the drawing is 70 grains. 
The doublings at each process are 6 
Into 1. At the slubber the drawing 



sliver is made into .55 hank roving. 
The top rolls for this staple of cotton 
are not generally varnished. The slub- 
ber roving is next put through two 
processes of fly frames. At the dif- 
ferent processes the hank roving is as 
follows: First, 2 hank; and second 7 
hank for the warp yarn. The different 
processes upto the last fly frame for 
making 36s filling yarn are the same. 
Here the roving is spun into 8.50 hank. 
The yarn is then taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM 
and made into 28s warp yarn on a 
frame with a 6%-inch traverse, 21- 
inch gauge, 11-inch diameter ring, 25. 
13 twist per inch, and 9,700 revolu- 
tions per minute of spindle. This yarn 
is spooled and warped and then put 
through a slasher. A 

GOOD SLASHER MIXING 
to use, if prints are to be woven on a 
common loom, is as follows: Water, 
100 gallons; cornstarch, 50 pounds; 
tallow, 3 pounds; turpentine, 1 
gill; boil 30 minutes. If wo- 
ven on an automatic loom, use the 
following size: Water, 100 gallons; 
potato starch, 50 pounds; tallow, 3 
pounds; turpentine, 1 gill; and boil 30 
minutes. The roving for filling yarn 
may be either mule or frame spun. It 
is the general custom to have it ring 
spun in mills built lately. For this 
count of yarn use a frame with a 5%- 
inch traverse, l|-inch diameter ring, 
22.50 twist per inch, 8,900 revolutions 
per minute of spindle. This yarn, after 
being conditioned, is ready for use. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

The pieces are first bleached to get 
a good white, and then dyed in the 
continuous vat. 

THE HYDROSULPHITE VAT. 

The water is corrected by the ad- 
dition of one quart of hydrosulphite 
to every 250 gallons of water. A stock 
liquor is made up in a barrel: 

Fifty pounds synthetic indigo paste: 
2V 2 gallons warm water; 33 gallons 
caustic soda, 76 degrees Tw., and 
stirred; temperature is raised to 105 
degrees F., and 8 gallons of hydrosul- 
phite added. The temperature is kept 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



667 



at about 105 degrees F. for two 
hours. If the solution is not clear yel- 
low, a further addition of one gallon 
of hydrosulphite is made. The vat is 
made up from the stock liquor and the 
pieces are passed through a sufficient 
number of times until the required 
shade is obtained. 

The pieces are washed and dried 
and printed with a discharge paste. 
WHITE DISCHARGE. 
Four and one-balf pounds bichro- 
mate of potash; 9 pints hot water; iy 2 
pounds soda calc, then 6y 2 pounds No. 
11 gum; 5 pints water; heated to 140 
degrees F., cooled and strained. 
COLORED DISCHARGE. 
Eight pounds discharge pigment; 10 
pounds discharge thickening; IV2 
pounds tragacanth, 8 ounces to gallon. 
DISCHARGE THICKENING. 
Eight pounds tragacanth, 8 ounces 
to gallon; 2y 2 pounds bichromate 
potash; 3*4 pints hot water; after dis- 
solving add 20 ounces ammonia, 25 per 
cent; when cold add 1 gallon blood al- 
bumen, 8 pounds to gallon; after 
printing and drying, the material is 
passed through the following acid bath 
at 140 degrees F.; 4 pounds sulphuric 
acid, 168 degrees Tw., 4 pounds ox- 
alic acid; 10 gallons water. The goods 
should be immediately well washed 
and dried. 

*-»-♦ 



the warp, the ground harness and the 
doup harness set. 

The ground harness is the same as 
in ordinary weaving: the doup har- 
ness set consists of two harness frames, 
if string doup is used, known as the 



LENO COTTON FABRICS 

Leno fabrics constitute a division of 
textile fabrics characterized by par- 
ticular warp threads crossing over one 
or more warp threads, instead of ly- 
ing parallel to one another as in or- 
dinary or plain weaving. 

These fabrics possess two distinct 
sets of warp threads, the regular or 
ground warp and the douping warp or 
warp that crosses over the ground 
warp and forms the ornamental fea- 
ture that characterizes the fabric. 

Leno fabrics are woven upon a sys- 
tem quite apart from ordinary or plain 
weaving. 

THE DIFFERENCE 

lies chiefly in the fact that two sets 
of harnesses are required to operate 




standard and skeleton harness. When 
wire douping heddles are used, it re- 
quires three harness frames. We will 
for convenience deal with the string 
doup; this douping heddle is but a 
half heddle, so to speak. This half 
heddle is usually fastened at the bot- 




Fig. 1 



torn of the skeleton harness frame 
and connected with the stand and 
harness heddle by passing through the 
upper opening of the standard hed- 
dle, then tnrough the eye of the stand- 
ard heddle, then fastened at the bot- 
tom of the skeleton harness frame. 



568 



A COTTON FABklCS GLOSSARY 



(See Fig. 1.) The secret of leno 
weaving will be readily understood if 
it is borne in mind that it consists of 
but two movements of the standard 
and douping heddles; these two move- 
ments are that if the standard and 
doup heddles are raised at the r.ame 
time, the douping thread will be on one 
side of the ground warp threads, that 
is, it will cross under the ground 



toward the loom. When doup threads 
are required to cross under ground 
warp threads the , easing up of the 
doup threads must be indicated on 
chain draft. (See Fig. 5.) 

Fig. 3 shows drawing-in plan. Fig. 4 
reeding plan. All leno fabrics have 
special reeding plans; the reed is 
sometimes plucked, that is, a wire tak- 
en out of reed, so as not to overcrowd 



rr 



[TTTT i rnrnTr nre 



m 



• a ■ ■■■■ a a ■ a I a*> 
■>*■*■ aa aa a a a aa a 

a aa a a aa a * a a 



• > i a a; >■ a* ■■•■ 

a a a a ■• ■■«■ aaaii 
.-■»«■ a -.«■*'■ 
■ a -a « aa mi luli 

*' a t. « a ■•«■ art 
■ « a » '* ■■ r «a,a. 
a • a a ik ■■■• >■■■■ 




threads; if, however, only the doup 
heddles are raised, the douping thread 
will remain in its normal position; 
that is, it will not cross, under the 
ground threads. We must, however, 
bear in mind that in no case can the 
standard heddle be raised without also 
raising the doup heddle; when the 
standard and doup are raised together, 
we must also slacken or ease up on 
the doup warp threads in order to al- 
■Damana 

□DBOBDBD 
□□OBDBDD 

■■■DDBDn 
□COMDOa 
□DBDBDDD 

■dobdmd 

DDBDDBGa 

oooMona 

■■■DBDDH 

nacnDBDD 

aaHoaaaa 

n BUokeaer 

Fig. 5. 
low them to cross under the ground 
warp threads. This is done by means 
of a slackener or easing rod. This rod 
is similar to what is known as tne whip 
roller in ordinary weaving. The doup 
threads pass under this rod into the 
eye of the doup; this rod is so ar- 
ranged that it will let up or relieve all 
tension from doup threads by moving 



the threads. This is usually done 
when doup threads cross under six or 
more ground threads; the doup thread 
must be in same dent with the ground 
threads under which it crosses. 
ANALYSIS. 
1,400 reed* special denting; 70 picks 
per inch; 38 inches in reed. Finished 
36 inches. 

WARP. 
9 white. 
2 medium blue. 
6 white. 

2 medium blue. 
9 white. 
2 dark blue. 

1 white — 2-ply. 

2 dark blue. 

1 white — 2-ply. 

2 dark blue. 

36 
As the warp layout is on 36 ends, the 
cloth contains two repeats of the same to 
one repeat of the weave. 

Draw the 2-ply yarn from the top 
beam. 

FILLING. 
20 white l-50s. 

Pins- Ends. 

5fi9 Black 4S l-40s. 

233 Dark blue 20 l-40s. 

56 Black 4 2-40s. 

84S Pins, including selvages. Selvages 2-40s 

black. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



669 



Take-up during weaving ground 
warp 10 per cent. 

Take-up during weaving doup warp 
65 per cent. The take-up as noted 
upon this fabric on the leno yarn is 
about 65 per cent, but this amount 
will vary widely according to the fab- 
ric being produced. If the crossing 
or leno thread moves over a large 
number of ground threads and does it 
continually, the take-up is very large, 
whereas if it moves over only a few 
ground threads and does it intermit- 
tently, the take-up will not be so 
great. In a good many instances the 
take-up on an ordinary leno stripe is 
approximately 30 per cent. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These fabrics are usually woven on 
a dobby loom, the speed of which is 
from 120 to 145 picks per minute; a 
higher speeded loom usually causes 
considerable trouble with the doup 
warp. 

The loom must necessarily carry 
two warp beams, ground warp and 
doup warp beams. Great care should 
be given to the setting of the harness- 
es, as they should be perfectly even 
and form a perfect shed when in op- 
eration. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics are principally used 
for shirts and shirtwaistings. This re- 
quires that the patterns be not too 
large and that the warp stripe be 
more prominent than the filling stripe 
when fabric is made with filling 
stripe. There are a good many fab- 
rics with leno stripes produced from 
bleached and dyed yarns, but there are 
probably more fabrics containing leno 
work, which are made from grey yarns 
and then either piece-dyed, printed, 
or sold in the white state. It is much 
more satisfactory to make leno fabrics 
from grey yarns than it is from 
bleached or dyed yarns, because yarns 
when grey are stronger and strength 
is essential to good production in leno 
work. Many grey shirting fabrics are 
decorated with leno stripes. In addi- 
tion there are many leno fabrics made, 
wherein silk is used to a certain ex- 
tent and which are woven with grey 
yarns and then dyed or piece bleached. 



After the fabric leaves the loom 
it is boiled off, then given a light siz- 
ing, pressed, then made up into rolls, 
after which it is ready for the mer- 
chant. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Leno fabrics, like all fabrics having 
a trade name covering a certain class 
of goods, are made up of various 
counts of yarn and of course the meth- 
ods used in making the different 
counts vary as to the processes used, 
also the kind and staple of cotton and 
the speed and setting of the different 
parts of the machines. A great many 
times changing the speed or setting of 
one part of a machine may improve 
the unevenness of the yarn or roving, 
or, if made at the picker, stop licking, 
so that it is very hard or almost im- 
possible to give a hard and fast rule 
of speed or settings for the machines 
that will cover the whole of leno fab- 
rics. The particulars which are given 
may be taken 

AS A FOUNDATION 

from which to work and a little vari- 
ation one way or the other only will 
be needed. For an example of leno 
yarns, we will consider the fabric to 
be made up of l-40s and 2-40s warp 
and l-50s filling yarns. For these 
counts of yarn the equipment of the 
second division of mills will be needed. 
The cotton generally used is Allen 
seed or peeler (American cotton) of 
l^-inch staple. Some mills comb 
both warp and filling yarns, while oth- 
er mills comb only the filling yarns. 
In this article we will consider that 
only the filling yarn is to be combed, 
although, if both are combed, the par- 
ticulars given below may be used. The 
mixing is made as has been previous- 
ly described, it being pointed out that 
the use of a bale breaker in connection 
with a blower will help the cotton to 
a great extent. An opener and 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 

are used. The sliver waste from all 
the machines up to the slubber is mix- 
ed in at the bins. At the opener use 
the particulars that have been given 



570 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



in previous articles. The breaker pick- 
er has a two-bladed, rigid type of beat- 
er, and the speed of the beater is 1,450 
revolutions per minute. Care should 
be taken to clean all seeds, etc., from 
under the bars at regular and frequent 
intervals. The total weight of the 
lap at the front of this picker is 38 
pounds, or a 13-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. The speed of the 
beater of this machine is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute; the fan speed being 
1,100 revolutions per minute; the 
driving shaft of the picker making 375 
revolutions per minute. Cut-roving 
waste is mixed in at the finisher pick- 
er in the proportion of 1 lap cut waste 
to 3 laps raw stock, the cut roving 
having been treated as described in 
previous articles. The total weight of 
the lap at the front end of the finisher 
picker should be 35 pounds or a 12y 2 - 
ounce lap. The laps are put up 

AT THE CARD, 

the draft of which should not be less 
than 100. The wire fillet generally 
used for this class of goods is 34s on 
cylinder and 35s on doffer and top 
flats. Set feed plate from licker-in 
with 20-l,000ths of an inch gauge; 
licker knives from licker-in 12-l,000ths 
of an inch; cylinder under screen from 
cylinder 22-l,000ths inch in center and 
one-quarter of an inch at each end of 
screen; top flats from cylinder, with 
a 12-l,000ths inch gauge, licker-in 
from cylinder with a l-l,000ths of an 
inch gauge, doffer from cylinder with 
7-l,000ths of an inch gauge. Always 
set to high places. Set the back edge 
of the back plate knife 17-l,000ths of 
an inch from the cylinder. The front 
plate knife has its uppor edge adjust- 
able in order that the amount of strip- 
ping to be taken from the flats may be 
regulated. Setting this plate closer to 
cylinder 

MAKES LIGHTER STRIPPING, 

and the farther away it is set, the 
heavier stripping it produces. The 
lower tdge of this plate is set to a 
17-l,000ths of an inch gauge. Grind 
and strip card as previously described. 
The top flats should make one com- 
plete revolution every 45 minutes. The 



percentage of waste taken out at the 
card for this class of goods should be 
about 4y z to 4%. The production for a 
week of 60 hours is 700 pounds with a 
65 grain sliver. Use a large diameter 
doffer. The sliver for the filling yarn 
is taken to the sliver lap machine and 
doubled 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap 
or 20 into 1 for a 10-inch lap. The 
weight of the lap at the front is 300 
grains. These laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 
1. The weight of a lap at the front 
end of a ribbon lap machine is 260 
grains per yard for an 8% -inch lap. 
Get weight for a 10-inch lap by pro- 
portion. Size both ribbon and sliver 
lap machines once a day. 

THE DOUBLINGS 

at the comber depend on the number 
of heads of the machine; recent ma- 
chines are generally provided with 
eight heads with a 10-inch lap. The 
speed of the comber for this class of 
stock is 85 nips per minute for old ma- 
chines and 100 nips for those of recent 
construction. Varnish rolls once a 
week, using one of the recipes given 
in previous articles; in sticky or dog- 
day weather use a little ground char- 
coal and gum arabic dissolved in a 
teaspoonful of vinegar. This swells 
to five times its bulk. Take out 18 
per cent waste. After passing the 
combers, the sliver is put through two 
processes of drawing, being doubled 6 
into 1. The speed of the front roll at 
each process is 350 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of the sliver at 
the finisher drawing is 70 grains pei 
yard. The card sliver for the warr 
yarn is put through three processes of 
drawing, the speed of the front roll 
being' 380 revolutions ner minute. The 
weight of this sliver is also 70 grains 
per yard. The sliver is next put up 
at the slubber and made into .55 hank 
roving. From here it is put through 
three processes of 

FLY FRAMES, 

the hank roving at each process being 
as follows: First, intermediate, 1.50; 
second, 4, and jack, 12. Keep your 
leather rolls in good condition and see 
that all parts of machine are well oiled 
and that top and bottom rolls are prop- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



6n 



erly set, which for this length of sta- 
ple should be for fly frames as follows: 
j? rone roll to middle, 1% inches; mid- 
dle roll to back, iy 2 inches. From here 
the roving is taken to the spinning 
room, although some prefer mule spun 
yarn. There is a great difference in 
the opinion of mill men as to the ad- 
vantages and disadvantages of both 
systems, one mill building with no 
mules and another including them in 
its equipment. We will consider both 
yarns to be 

FRAME SPUN. 

For a warp frame spinning 40s use a 
frame having a 2%-inch gauge, 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 6%-ir.ch traverse, 
28.46 twist per inch, 10,000 revolutions 
per minute of spindles. The l-40s 
warp yarn is spooled, warped and put 
through the slasher, a good mixing for 
which has been previously given. The 
2- 40s yarn is put through a twisting 
frame and spooled. Enough spools are 
put up at the warper and the ends, 
after which run on to a specially con- 
structed beam. 

For the filling yarn l-50s, use a ring 
frame having a 2% -inch gauge, 1*4- 
inch diameter ring, 5 ^ -inch traverse, 
26.52 twist and spindle speed of 8,200 
revolutions per minute. This yarn 
is conditioned and then is ready to be 



Dyeing Particulars for Yarn. 

BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial black N. N.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT BLUE. 

Three per cent diamine sky blue 
F. F.; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

One per cent diamine black BE; 
1 ounce diamine fast yellow A.; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent naphtamine brown 
6 B.; 1 per cent naphtamine yellow N. 
N.; 1 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 



MEDIUM GREEN. 

Six per cent thion green G.; 2 per 
cent thion yellow G.; 8 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
MEDIUM BROWN. 

Three per cent tetrazo dark brown; 
1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 

MEDIUM SLATE. 

One per cent tetrazo black G. ; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 

WINE. 

Three per cent tetrazo Corinth; 1 
per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 

RED. 

Three per cent benzo fast red 4 B.; 

1 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

DARK GREEN. 

Seven per cent thio green B.; 8 per 
cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

ECRU. 
One per cent thion brown G.; 1 per 
cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

FAWN BROWN. 

One per cent diamine fast yellow A. ; 

2 per cent diamine brown M.; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Five per cent diamine dark blue B.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

BEDSPREADS— Crochet Quilts 

Bedspreads, also termed bed quilts, 
coverlets and counterpanes, are, as 
the names imply, used as coverings 
for bed clothing. 

Being primarily decorative fabrics, 
most of them show elaborate jacquard 
designs of a type peculiar to this class 
of fabric, the use to which they are 
subjected necessitating a design of a 
large, bold character that is complete 
in itself in each quilt. 

Quilts are of various sizes, ranging 
from crib quilts, 28x63 inches, to large 
quilts, 92x108 inches. 



572 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



For metal beds the quilts are some- 
times cut at the four corners so they 
will hang better and make a neater 
appearance. 

Being a type of fabric of universal 
use in civilized countries, for all class- 
es of people, quilts are necessarily 
made in widely varying qualities. 
They are also made in varying single 
and compound structures of cloth, and 
in varying types of designs. 

THREE PRINCIPAL TYPES. 

Three of the principal types of 
structures are seen in quilts known as 
crochet, Marseilles and satin. The 
first is a single fabric, where all yarns 
used show on one side or the other. 

The second is a compound fabric, in 




Fig. 1. 

which the extra yarns are generally 
used for the purpose of adding weight 
and at the same time producing an 
embossed pattern on the face. 

The third is a double cloth, reversi- 
ble, with some types of designs in 
which each of the single cloths alter- 
nate from one side of the quilt to the 
other, according to the pattern re- 
quired. 

These three types will be considered 
In the above order. 

It may be mentioned here that there 
are other names of quilts, as Toilet, 
Albany, Mitcheline, Duree, Grecian, 
Embroidery, Tapestry, Kensington, Al- 
hambra and Honeycomb, but these 



may be included in one or another of 
the three principal types mentioned. 

CROCHET QUILTS. 

The term crochet quilt does not 
mean that said fabric is crocheted 
with needles, but reiers to the sim- 
plest type of woven single cloth quilt 
made with medium or fine counts of 
yarns. Honeycomb and Alhambra 
quilts are of the same class, differing 
principally in the type of design used. 

This class of quilt, for full size 
quilts, shows variations in size from 
about 68x82 inches to 80x90 inches, 
and in weight from about one pound, 
12 ounces to three pounds, 9 ounces, 
per quilt. 

THE ANALYSIS 
of an unbleached crochet crib quilt 
shows the following data: Width, 31 
inches; 84 ends and 72 picks per inch; 
24s warp, 12s soft twisted filling. The 
warp contains 2,600 ends and is reed- 
ed three ends per dent in a 26-dent 
reed. The cloth will finish about 28 
inches wide. 

By reference to Fig. 1, it may be 
seen that the pattern is a stripe com- 
posed of four sections in each repeat, 
as follows: First, a section of honey- 
comb effect, formed by weave Fig. 2, 
on 6x6; second, a continuous floral ef- 
fect, filling flush weaves; third, a 
crepe effect, formed by weave Fig. 3 
on 32x12; fourth, like the second sec- 
tion, but dropped 78 picks, one-half 
the number in each repeat. 

There are a little more than 12 re- 
peats in the entire width. The sel- 
vages are each one-half inch wide, 
reeded the same as the ground, and 
show an angled twill weave effect. 

The length of the pattern filling way 
is 2 3-16ths inches and requires 156 
picks for a repeat. 

As there are 200 ends in a repeat of 
the design, a 400-hook jacquard might 
be used, each pick of the pattern be- 
ing read twice on each card. 

THE LOOM REQUIRED 
for this type of fabric is of medium 
weight. The pattern being small, a 
small jacquard head of the ordinary 
rise and drop type, or, if the weave 
is not required to be changed to form 
the headings of the quilt, a double ac- 
tion head may be used. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



673 



For the sample shown, if required 
to have headings at both ends to com- 
plete the quilt, differing in weave 
from the ground, what is termed a 
double or single acting automatic aux- 
iliary cylinder jacquard would be the 
most economical to use. 

If the ground weave was required 
to be repeated 25 times between head- 
ings, an ordinary jacquard attachment 



■DBDDO 
CBGBGB 

mmmama 

□BOBGB 
■□■ODD - 
dBDDUD 

Fig. 2. 

■ "■nBn«-iDazHDBno»c«DBCB«c«nHDBao 
■DHaaQMDBDHQaoaacHQBOHcnoBoaDn 

DBDDBDBDBaBBDBDDBDBBDBDDBDBBDBDB 

CBGBGB JGBGBCBGMCBGBGBGGBGBCBQBB 
GBaBDBaOBaBDBOBBDBDBDBDCBDBaBDBB 

BGBaaBaaaaaBaBaBaBDQBQaaBaBaoBaa 
BDBaBaaaGaaBDBDaBOBOBnBaaBDaDaDD 

BGBGBGBBaBGBGBGGBOBCBCBBGBGBGBaa 
BGBBGBDBGBGDBGBBGBDaBaBBDBOGBGBa 
OBGBnBnGBGBaBGBBQBaBaBaaBCBCBCBB 
GBGBGBGaaGBGBGBBnBDBGBGOBDBGBDBB 

DaaaaaBBaBGaaGflaBDBBQBDBaaaaBDBa 
Fig. 3. 

would require 25x156 picks in repeat, 
equalling 3,900 cards for the ground, 
whereas with the auxiliary cylinder 
machine 156 cards only would be re- 
quired for this same section. 

For larger patterns, the capacity of 
the jacquard would be required to cor- 
respond, i. e., with more than 400 ends 
in a repeat. 

FINISHING. 

The goods are generally woven grey 
from unbleached yarn, and are bleach- 
ed and finished after they leave the 
loom. A quilt will shrink in width 
about 10 per cent from the gray to the 
finished state, and increase about 1 
per cent in length. 

After bleaching, starching and blu- 
ing, they are cut, hemmed or fringed 
as desired, inspected, rolled or folded, 
tagged and papered. 

It is not advisable to leave finished 
quilts unpapered for any length of 
time if in the same building as the 
bleach house, because the fumes from 
the bleaching liquors take out the blu- 
ing in a short time. If this is done 
after the quilt is folded, the bluing 
is taken from the outer layers only, 
and uneven, poor-looking quilts result. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which bedspreads are 
composed are made in mills of the 
second division. There is one feature 
about the filling yarn which is not 
common to all fabrics, and that is, it 
is what is called soft twisted. The 
counts of yarn which make up the 
fabric to be described in this article 
are 24s warp and 12s filling. 

THE WARP YARN 
is made from 1-inch staple Ameri- 
can cotton, while the filling yarn is 
made from a good grade of %-inch 
staple American stock. The mixing is 
done in the usual manner, which has 
been described many times before, 
separate bins being used for the two 
staples. The good sliver waste from 
all machines up to the slubber is mix- 
ed in at the bins. This sliver should 
be spread over the entire mixture and 
not bunched in one place; it should 
also be broken into short lengths so 
that it will not be so apt to become 
tangled around the spikes of the hop- 
per. This hopper should be kept full 
so as to feed an even amount of cot- 
ton to be struck off by the pin roller 
at the top of the lifting apron. 

The raw stock for both warp and 
filling yarns is put through three proc- 
esses of picking, the breaker picker 
being generally connected directly to 
the opener. Many different kinds of 

BEATERS 
are used by different mills, each claim- 
ing certain advantages over the other, 
but the style of beater in most general 
use throughout the mills is what is 
known as the two-bladed or armed 
rigid type of beater, although many 
mills use a three-bladed beater of the 
same style for the breaker picker. To 
sharpen the edge of this beater its side 
is planed. The speed of the beater used 
for the same stock and weight lap va- 
ries greatly in different mills and the 
speeds given below are the ones used 
in a mill making this clasb of goods. 
For the breaker picker the speed of 
the beater (two-bladed) is 1,500 revo- 
lutions per minute, for the interme- 
diate, 1,450 revolutions per minute, 
and for the finisher 1,350 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the breaker is 40 pounds or a 16- 



574 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ounce lap, at the intermediate 37 
pounds, or a 10-ounce lap, and at the 
finisher 39 pounds or a 14^-ounce lap. 
At the intermediate and finisher pick- 
ers the laps are doubled four into 
one. The draft of the finisher picker 
does not exceed three. At this picker 
it is customary to mix in the roving 
waste both cut and uncut. The roving 
waste that has not been cut from the 
bobbin consists of that which is made 
by the speeder tenders when they are 
putting in new sets of roving and tak- 
ing off single and double. Speeder 
tenders should never be allowed to cut 
off roving; all bad work being sorted 
out, charged and given to them to fix. 
All marks should be made small 
and near the bobbin. 

The laps from the picker are next 
put up 

AT THE CARD, 

the draft of which for this fabric 
should not exceed 100. The wire fillet 
used should be No. 33s for cylinder 
and 35s for doffer and top flats. The 
settings of the card should be the same 
as given for leno cotton fabrics, al- 
though some overseers use a little 
wider settings for this class of stock. 
The speed of the licker-in should bs 
375 revolutions per minute, cylinder 
165 revolutions per minute, and the 
flats should make one complete revo- 
lution every 50 minutes. The card 
should be stripped, ground and clean- 
ed. The weight per yard of the sliver 
at the front should be about 65 grains 
per yard, the production for a week 
of 60 hours being 750 pounds. This 
sliver is next put through three proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 

the doublings at each process being 6 
into 1. For this class of goods metal- 
lic rolls may be used to great advan- 
tage. If leather top rolls are used, 
they should be varnished frequently 
and kept in good repair. See that all 
parts are working properly, especially 
those parts which coil the sliver into 
the cans, because if these are not 
working properly, the sliver cannot be 
run out at the next process without a 
great deal of breaking back of the 
sliver. Imperfect coiling of the sliver 
Is a great many times caused by the 



cans themselves, they being out of 
true or having broken parts sticking 
out and coming in contact with part 
of the machine and stopping the can 
from turning. The only remedy for 
imperfect coiling is to run it over 
again. 

The spread of the front roll of the 
drawing frame at each process is 375 
to 400 revolutions per mniute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 

for warp yarn is 70 grains and for the 
filling yarn, 80 grains per yard. These 
slivers are put up to the slubber and 
made into .40 hank for the %-inch 
stock and .60 hank for the 1-inch 
stock. The process of fly frames for 
the 1-inch stock and the hank roving 
made at each process are as follows: 
First, 2 hank, and second, 6. From 
here it is taken to the ring spinning 
room and made into 24s yarn on a 
frame having a 2% -inch gauge of 
frame, 2 -inch diameter ring, a 7- 
inch traverse, 23.27 twist per inch and 
a spindle speed of 9,600 revolutions 
per minute. The yarn is then spool- 
ed and put through a warper and these 
warps put up at the slasher, the re- 
quired number of ends being run on 
a beam at the front. 

The slubber roving for the filling 
yarn is put on the first intermediate 
fly frame and made into 1 and then 
into 2.5 hank at the next process, after 
which it is taken to the mule room 
and spun into 12s yarn with a twist 
per inch of 2.75. 

After leaving the loom, quilts are 
first boiled for 10 hours with a 

CAUSTIC SODA SOLUTION 

at 4 degrees Tw., rinsed well with 
water and boiled again with a 4 de- 
gree Tw. caustic soda, 10 hours; rins- 
ed well with water, soured with one- 
half degree Tw. oil vitriol, rinsed with 
water, chemicked with one-half degree 
Tw. chloride of lime solution, scoured 
with 1 degree Tw. oil of vitriol and 
rinsed two or three times with water. 
The goods are placed in the kiers, 
each piece separate, and handled very 
carefully throughout the whole opera- 
tion. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



575 



BEDSPREADS— Marseilles Quilts 

Marseilles quilts are characterized 
by large embossed effects, usually of 
elaborate floral or geometrical design, 
each pattern occupying an entire quilt. 



Fig 1 



The general effect is similar to what 
would be formed by stitching a pat- 
tern on a fine plain cloth, which effect 
is made more prominent in the better 




One of the principal types of designs 
used reverses from the center in both 
directions, warp way and filling way, 
as in Fig. 1. 

When designing for this type it is 
necessary to make only one-quarter of 
the figuring design, the same occupy- 
ing only one-sixth of the total num- 
ber of ends in the warp, or one-half 
of the stitching ends. The jacquard 
tie-up is on the point or center draft 
principle, /\ , which doubles the 
capacity of the machine as compared 
to a straight tie-up, and there is an 
attachment on the loom by which the 
cards are reversed when the center of 
the quilt is reached filling way. 



w 
W 



w 
w 



X o 

/ / • 

/ / • 

xo 

X 

// 
/ / 



\ 

/ / 

/ / 

\ 

\ o 

f / • 
/ / m 

X O 



\ 

/ / 

/ / 

\ 

V t 

/ J 
/ / 

X 



X 

/ / 
/ / 

X 
\ 

/ / 
/ / 

\ 



/ / 
/ / 

N 
N 

/ / 
/ / 

\ 



O \ 

• / 

• / 

o 
X 

/ 

/ 



w 
w 



w 



X 

/ / 
/ / 

X 
\ 

/ / 

/ / 

V 



\ 

/ / 
/ / 
v 
\ o 
/ /• 
/ / • 

N O 



N 
/ / 

/ / 

X 
X 

/ / 
/ / 

X 



e x 

• / / 

• / / 

O X 
X 

• / 
/ / 

X 



X 

/ / 
/ / 

X 
© X 

• / / 

• // 

O X 



w 

w 



w 
w 



X o 
/ / / • 
/ / / • 

N XO 

ox 

/ m / / 

/ • // 

VO X 



X 

/ / 
/ / 

X 
X 

/ / 
// 

X 



X 

// 
/ / 

V 
X 

/ / 
/ / 

\ 



X 

/ / 
/ / 

X 
X 

/ / 

/ / 

■ X' 



X 

/ / 
// 

X 
X 

/ / 

/ / 

\ 



o*» 

« / 
• / 
o 

/ 
/ 



Fl&.'Z 



grades of goods by weaving a coarse 
plain cloth at the back and insert- 
ing wadding between the face and 
back cloths. When wadding is used 
the stitching points form deep fur- 
rows, which indicate the pattern. 



When considering the plan for the 
card cutter only, one-half of the stitch- 
ing ends and one-half the back picks 
in each quilt are considered, i. e., 
when there are two face picks to one 
back pick. 



576 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



There are two types of Marseilles 
weaves, known as ordinary Marseilles 
and fast-back Marseilles. The latter 



OBDDDB 

dcwdHB 

DDDBDD 
DDBDBD 

nmaanm 
uaaaaa 

Fig. 3. 

type is used for almost all but the 
lowest qualities of goods. 

Design Fig. 2 illustrates the princi- 
ple upon which an ordinary Marseilles 
weave is constructed, in which the 



filling. On this account the distance, 
filling way, between the stitching 
points is necessarily limited. 

In Fig. 2 the ends marked S are 
stitching ends, raised over the face 
cloth at O on the face picks and at # 
on the wadding picks. 

The picks marked W, shown in type 
/ , indicate wadding, inserted for 
the purpose of adding weight and of 
forcing the face cloth up, or embossing 
it. When these picks are inserted, all 
the face ends are raised. 

Fig. 3 shows the motif or order of 
stitching in Fig. 2. 



w 


V o \ 
/ r / • / / 

/ / / * / f 

"■» Ci. <S X. c^ <*, 
V • SO X 
S NO 


S N S 

/ / ' / ' / 

/ / / / ' ' 

S N X 

> SON 


O V 

• / 

• / 

<«s B 
o 
V 


J 


w 
w 

w 

V9 


/ / / / /• 
/ / / / / • 

S : \ SO 

N x 

y / / / / 
/ / / / / 


CS& fc»C>Xfc>C> 

/ / / / • / / 

/ / f / • / / 

•N SON 
S«N V 

/ / • / / / ' 
/ / • / / / / 
«k<S> X<^ C> Ci ^ 


/ 

N 

/ 
/ 

X*> A 




W 


X \ S 
S V o 

Cs* X Q> & (^ Cv If 
/ / / / /• 
/ / / / /• 
S V NO 
s o \ 


S«N S 

V VON 

Cv<S fc^X^^ 

// / / m / / 

/ / / / +-Y / 
N X O S 

N V 'N 

// / / / / 


N 

& fl 

/ 

/ 

O N 




W 

W 

w 


/ / /• / / 

(S C^XCsfc 

S NO N 

«»S N 

oXi\ ft, & yc 
• • / / / / 
/ • / / / / 

NOV V 


/ / / / / / 

S N X 
X- V V 

/ / / / / / 

/ / / / / / 

xxv 


• / 

Xft. B 
o 

N 

/ 
/ 






-■ 

S S S 


\ i$ s 
Fid A-. 


s 


1 



wadding lies between the face cloth 
and the stitching, also termed binder, 
figuring, or back, ends. These ends 
when not required to be raised to form 
the pattern, remain at the back of the 
cloth and are not interlaced with the 



FAST-BACK WEAVES. 
A fast-back differs from an ordinary 
Marseilles weave in having the fine 
filling; besides interlacing with the 
face ends, it also interlaces with the 
stitching ends when the latter are at 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



577 



the back between stitching points. In 
this way a double plain cloth is form- 
ed, either of which could be taken 
away and still leave a perfect single 
cloth. 

In fast-back Marseilles quilts, both 
face and back weaves are plain, the 
pattern being formed by the stitching 
points. 

In Fig. 4, which shows a fast-back 
weave completed to form the motif 
Fig. 3, ends S indicate stitchinj ends; 
W indicate wadding picks, and B in- 
dicate back picks. 

Marks / show all face ends raised 
when wadding picks are inserted; 
stitching ends are all down on these 
same picks except where they are re- 
quired to be brought through the face 
cloth to form a stitching point. 

When the back picks are inserted, 
all face ends are raised, as indicated at 
q , and one-half of the stitching 
ends, as at x, forming a plain weave 
at the back. 

The ends and picks not marked S, 
W or B form a plain weave on the 
face. 

Marks O show where stitching ends 
are brought over the face cloth, each 
stitching point covering two face 
picks, to define the pattern. 

A standard make of cloth made 
with suitable designs on the principle 
shown in Fig. 4 is as follows: Warp, 
40s yarn for face, 20s for stitching, ar- 
ranged 1 end of 40s, 1 of 20s and 1 of 
40s; 80 face and 40 back ends per 
inch, 120 average sley. 

Filling 60s yarn for face and back, 
12s yarn for wadding, picked 1 pick 
of 60s, 2 of 12s, 4 of 60s, 2 of 12s, 1 of 
60s, repeated; 200 picks per inch. 

The reason why the picks are ar- 
ranged as here shown in preference to 
arranging them 2 face, 2 wadding, 1 
back, is to enable an even number of 
picks of one count of filling to be in- 
serted before the shuttles are changed. 
This can be done on a loom having a 
single box at one end and a multiple 
box at the other. 

When a pick and pick loom is used, 
which is in the majority of cases, 4 
picks instead of 5 complete the round 
of filling, one pick of 6s taking the 
place of 2 of 12s for the wadding. 



The yarns in both warp and filling 
are usually arranged 2 face to 1 back, 
making a fine effect on the face and 
a coarse one on the back; this in addi- 
tion to the wadding picks. 

Two warp beams are required, one 
of which, that containing the stitching 
yarn, is more heavily weighted than 
the other in order to pull down the 










Fig. 5. 

stitching points and make the em- 
bossed effect as prominent as possible. 
This warp may be of equal or of dif- 
ferent counts from the face warp. It 
is usually of lower counts. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
The patterns being large and elab- 
orate, a jacquard head is of necessity 
used, although not of such a large 
capacity as would at first appear. 



578 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



The cards for this head control the 
action of the stitching ends only. 

An examination of Fig. 4 will show 
that only 2 ends are necessary tc 
complete the face weave, every alter- 
nate face end working similarly. 

The face ends, two-thirds of the en- 
tire number, are worked most eco- 
nomically by harness shafts, gener- 
ally placed at the rear of the comber 
board. 

These shafts are worked from the 
head in a positive manner, independ- 
ently of the pattern cards. 

To weave a quilt like the one under 
consideration, say 90 inches wide, an 
1,800 hook head would be required, 
tied up point draft. 

The 20s warp would contain 3,600 
ends, and the 40s warp 7,200 ends, 
making a total of 10,800 ends in the 
quilt. 

On a pick and pick loom Fig. 4 could 
be woven with 8 instead of 10 picks in 
a repeat, the action being as follows: 
First pick, jacquard rises, carrying the 
hooks selected for stitching by pat- 
tern card; all face warp raised; wad- 
ding filling. Second pick, jacquard 
up; one-half of face warp up and the 
other half down; fine filling; face 
pick. Third pick, jacquard up; face 
ends reverse positions; fine filling; 
face pick. Fourth pick, jacquard drops 
and then rises again, carrying with it 
one-half every alternate one, of the 
stitching ends; all face warp raised; 
fine filling; back pick. 

The fifth, sixth and seventh picks 
are a repetition of the first, second 
and third, with perhaps the exception 
that a fresh selection of stitching ends 
have been raised. 

Eighth pick, jacquard drops, then 
raises the half of the stitching ends 
not raised, and leaves down the ends 
that were raised on the fourth pick; 
face ends all raised; fine filling; back 
pick. 

The principal advantage claimed for 
this method over others is that the 
attachment for raising the stitching 
ends, one-half every fourth pick, dis- 
penses with one-half of the number of 
cards ordinarily required. 

Two other methods are used for ac- 
tuating the stitching ends when back 



picks are inserted. First, by bringing 
jacquard cards, called plain cards, into 
play to work them; this method re- 
quires double the number of cards 
required for the same pattern. 

Second, by using 2 comber boards, 
drawing the odd numbered ends 
through one and the even numbered 
ends through the other, and raising 
each board alternately every fourth 
pick. 

When this plan is adopted knots are 
put on the harness cords immediately 
above the comber boards so that when 
the boards rise the cords and ends 
are also raised. 

Light-weight Marseilles quilts are 
known as Toilet quilts. They vary in 
weight from about 2.5 pounds to 4 
pounds per quilt. 

Heavy-weight quilts vary from 3.5 
pounds in narrow quilts to 6 pounds 
for wide goods. 

In the lightest and cheapest grades 
of fabrics wadding picks are omitted, 
but when made on the fast-back prin- 
ciple the back filling is considerably 
coarser than the face filling. 

The processes of finishing are some- 
what similar to those explained in the 
article dealing with crochet quilts. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Marseilles quilts are of a better 
quality than the quilts described in 
the preceding article, but are made in 
the same division of mills. The quilts 
under description require four differ- 
ent sizes of yarn, which are as fol- 
lows: 40s and 20s for warp and 60s 
and 12s for the filling. For 12s yarn 
use cotton of from % to 1 inch in sta- 
ple; for the 20s and 40s use 1%- 
inch stock and for 60s 1% to 11 inch 
stock, all American cotton. For the 
filling yarn a soft twist is used and it 
is generally mule spun. Mix raw stock 
by usual method, of course the differ- 
ent staples being mixed in separate 
bins. Hand mixing is generally used 
on this class of goods, but it would be 

OF GREAT ADVANTAGE 
to use a bale breaker or willow to pre- 
pare the cotton before it is fed to 
openers. All stocks are put through 
an opener and three processes of pick- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



579 



ing. The speed of the beater (rigid, 
two-bladed style) for all stock except 
the I-inch is 1,500 revolutions per 
minute. For the short stock the speed 
should be increased so as to take out 
the extra amount of dirt which is al- 
ways in short staple cotton. The to- 
tal weight of the laps at the front for 
all staples should be 40 pounds or a 
16-ounce lap. At the intermediate the 
speed of the beater is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute for all stocks, except 
the short stock, where speed should 
be increased. The total weight of lap 
at the front is 37 pounds or a 12-ounce 
lap for the finer yarns and a 10-ounce 
lap for the stocks for 12s and 20s yarn. 
These are put up at 

THE FINISHER PICKER 
and doubled 4 into 1. At this picker 
the cut roving is mixed in in propor- 
tions that have been described in pre 
vious articles. The speed of this beat 
er varies from 1,400 to 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute, according to the 
yarn being put through, the higher 
speed being used for the stock for the 
12s yarn. This gives the stock for 20s, 
40s and 60s about 42 beats or blows 
per inch. The total weight of the lap 
at the front is as follows: 35 pounds 
for the 60s and 40s yarns and 39 
pounds for the 12s and 20s yarns, or a 
12^-ounce lap for l§-inch stock, and 
14-ounce lap for the other stocks. A 
variation of one-half pound either side 
of standard is allowed for all the 
stock, except the %-inch staple, for 
which a variation of 10 ounces eithe 1 
side of staple is allowed. Follow in- 
structions about oiling, cleaning, etc., 
that have been given in previous arti- 
cles. 

THE CARDS 
should be fitted up with 34s wire fillet 
for cylinder and 36s for top flats and 
doffer. The draft of the card should 
be as follows: 110 for 60s and 40s 
yarns and not over 100 for the shorter 
staples. Speed of licker-in is about 
325 for long staple and 375 for %-inch 
stock. The speed of the flats for the 
different stocks is as follows: 1 com- 
plete revolution in 40 minutes for 60s 
yarn, 50 minutes for 40s yarn, 55 min- 
utes for 20s yarn and 60 minutes for 



12s yarn. Strip cards three times a 
day, except for the g-inch stock, when 
an extra stripping of both cylinder 
and doffer should be made, although 
some overseers strip only three times, 
while others strip the doffer only an 
extra time. Use same 

SETTINGS 
for card as were given in the last ar- 
ticle except for the %-inch stock, 
when those for indigo prints should 
be used. The production for a 
week of 60 hours should be as fol- 
lows: 1,000 pounds for %-inch stock, 
800 pounds for the 20s yarn, 750 for 
40s yarn and 700 pounds for 60s yarn. 
The weight of the sliver is 65 grains 
for all staples. 

The cotton for 60s is combed and the 
instructions, weights, etc., given in 
the last article may be used for the 
40s and 20s. The card sliver is put 
through three processes of picking 
and for the 12s only two processes 
are used. Either metallic or leather 
top rolls may be used. We should rec- 
ommend metallic rolls for the coarser 
work. 

The weight per yard at the finisher 
drawing should be 70 grains for all 
staples except the %-inch, which 
should be 80 grains per yard. The 
speed of the front roll should be about 
400 pounds for coarse work and 350 
for finer staples. 

THE DRAWING 
is put up at the slubber and made in- 
to .60 hank for 20s, 40s and 60s yarns 
and .40 hank for 12s yarn. The roving 
for 60s and 40s yarns is put through 
three processes of fly frames and for 
20s and 12s yarns two processes are 
used. The hank roving for each yarn 
and the hank roving at each process 
is as follows: For 60s yarn, first inter- 
mediate, 1.50; second, 4.50; and fine, 
12.50 hank. For 40s yarn first inter- 
mediate, 1 ; second, 3 ; and fine, 8 hank. 
For 20s yarn, first intermediate, 1.50; 
second, 4. For 12s yarn, first inter- 
mediate 1, and second, 3 hank. 

THE ROVING 
for the filling yarns is generally mule 
spun, because a soft twist is put in, 
about 2.75 x square root of yarn being 



6S0 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



used. For the warp yarn a ring framf 
is used. Of course if this fabric is 
made in a mill having only ring 
frames both yarns will have to be ring 
spun. The yarns for filling after be- 
ing spun at the mule are all ready to 
be woven after being conditioned. 
For spinning 40s on a ring frame use 
a frame with 2% -inch gauge, 1%-inch 
diameter of ring, S^-inch length of 
traverse, 28.4-6 twist per inch and 
spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions pe 
minute; for 20s use a- frame with 2%- 
inch gauge, 2 inches diameter of ring; 
7 inches length of traverse, 21.24 twist 
per inch and spindle speed of 9,400 
resolutions per minute. After pass- 
ing the ring frame the yarn is spooled 
and warped and the 40s yarn is put 
through the slasher. 



BEDSPREADS— Satin Quilts 

Satin quilts, so called, are distin- 
guished by having a fine, smooth 
ground, from which the pattern ap- 
pears to stand up. This pattern is 
made with coarse filling interlaced 
with a comparatively fine warp. The 
latter is almost lost to view in the 
coarse filling, unless examined close- 
ly. 

The coarse filling floats over the 
ground yarns to form the pattern, and 
under them when not required to form 
the pattern, being bound with 
binding yarns, so called, generally in 
plain cloth order. The binding warp 
is all down when the ground filling is 
inserted. 

The ground yarns, warp and filling, 
are of medium counts. 

Fig. 1 illustrates the effect. 

The term satin is probably used on 
account of the fine appearance of the 
ground, and not from any reference to 
the weave, as both ground and figuring 
weaves are generally plain. 

MINOR VARIATIONS 

in weave have been made from time to 
time, and patents granted for them, 
with the result that these goods are 
now sold in the market under different 
names. In 1868 a patent was granted 
for this type of quilt, known then and 



now as Mitcheline, in which a bold 
figure is generally woven on a plain 
ground, the figure being plain, twill or 
satin as desired. 

Other names now used for practi- 
cally the same type of quilt are Duree, 
patent satin, embroidery and Kensing- 
ton. 

Although generally woven white, 
some 

VERY GOOD EFFECTS 

are obtained in satin quilts by using 
colored ends in stripe form for the 
ground, as in Fig. 2. 

An analysis of the sample illus- 
trated in Fig. 2 shows the following 
data: Ground warp, 30s; binding warp, 
20s; ground filling, 30s; coarse filling, 
3s. 

All binding ends are white ends. 

The ground warp yarns are ar- 
ranged 3 white, 3 blue, alternately. 

There are 69 ends per inch, 46 of 
30s and 23 of 20s, arranged 2 of 30s 
and 1 of 20s alternately. 

The warp yarns are usually arrang- 
ed 2 ground, 1 binder, although other 
arrangements are used. The filling is 
arranged 2 of ground and 2 of coarse, 
or 1 pick of each alternately. 

The principle of construction of sat- 
in quilt weaves is illustrated in Figs. 
2, 3 and 4. 

The effect seen in Fig. 2 is like the 
motive Fig. 3, each end of which rep- 
resents 18 ends in the cloth; each pick 
in Fig. 3 corresponds to 8 picks in the 
cloth. 

The complete weave is illustrated 
in Fig. 4, where ends B, every third 
end, are binding ends; picks C are 
coarse picks. Solid squares show 
where these ends and picks interlace 
to form a plain weave. Marks x show 
where the ground ends and ground 
picks weave plain. 

Marks . (dots) show where the 
ground warp is raised when coarse 
filling is inserted, leaving the latter 
at the back as not being required to 
form the pattern. 

On the same picks in which these 
marks occur it may be noticed that 
some of the ground ends, indicated by 
= =, are down, allowing the coarse 
filling to float over them. It is at 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



681 



these places that the latter forms the 
figure. In Fig. 4 these marks indi- 
cate filling. All other marks indi- 
cate warp. 

Two beams are required. The 
ground beam is more heavily weighted 
than the other, the idea being to al- 
low the coarse filling to show as 
prominently as possible, and this fill- 
ing passing first to one side of the 
cloth and then the other, and lying 



quire a much larger number of hooks, 
usually from 2,400 to 3,600. 

Sometimes it is necessary to use 
two jacquard heads over one loom. 
The loom part itself is somewhat sim- 
ilar for both types of quilts. Two 
shuttles are used, one for each count 
of filling, picking 1 and 1 or 2 and 2 
alternately as required. 

One concern builds a jacquard head 
designed especially for weaving satin 



Fig. 1. 



practically flat, not being bent out of a 
straight line by the warp, necessitates 
the binder warp being held somewhat 
slack. 

The goods vary in weight from 
about 3 to 5 pounds. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Satin quilts, although containing 
fewer ends than Marseilles quilts, re- 



quilts. It is built straight-lift, or rise- 
and-drop as desired. 

With this machine the ground 
picks are woven plain, satin, or twill 
as desired, without the action of the 
cards or cylinder. This saves labor 
in making the design and cutting the 
cards because in making a design the 
figure only need be dealt with. The 
binder ends, working plain all the 



582 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



time with the coarse picks, may be 
drawn through harness shafts and 
worked from the head, irrespective of 
the cards, as in Marseilles weaving. 
The cards actually need actuate 
only the ground ends on the coarse 
picks, the remainder of the ends and 
picks being actuated in a positive 
manner by the head. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing of white quilts Is 
about the same for all types, with the 



sequent processes it can be readily 
traced to its source. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Satin quilts are made in the same 
division of mills as the fabric de- 
scribed in the last article. The cotton 
used is similar. The make-up of satin 



□□□■■■ 

DBDBCW 
ODDMB 
■■■ODD 

mamoma 

■ ■■CJQQ 



Bii 




"* "•ISl'illl/llflK'B > i) 



!*•! .!,■;■' ;l i; i 



mWWWw-- 



' . 



■M 



Fig. 2. 

exception that some need more blue 
and starch than others. Briefly, they 
are bleached, washed to remove the 
acid, run through blue mangle, 
starched, dried, cut, hemmed, or 
fringed, inspected, folded, ticketed, 
bundled and packed. 

In some mills it is the custom to 
weave the number of the loom on each 
quilt as it is being woven, so that if 
any defect shows up in any of the sub- 



Fig-. 3. 

quilts differs in different mills and 
even in the same mill different grades 
of this fabric are made. The quilt that 
has been analyzed for this article is 
made up of the following counts of 
yarns: 30s and 20s warp yarn and 3s 
and 30s filling yarn. As stated above, 
all the yarns except the 3s would be 
made up of cotton of l%o to 1%-inch 
staple. The 3s would be made from a 
shorter staple, say % to % inch, and 
mixed with waste, as will be shown 

THE MIXING. 
The cotton for the warp and filling, 
except the 3s, is mixed in the usual 
manner and after being allowed to 
stand as long as possible (in order 
that it may dry out), the good waste 
from the machines up to the slubber, 
which is collected at regular inter- 
vals, is mixed in at this point, care 
being used to break up sliver waste 
into small lengths and to spread the 
sliver throughout the entire mixing, 
so that it will not all be fed to the 
feeder at once. In some mills a very 
small percentage of comber waste is 
mixed in at this point, but it is not 
the general custom to use a mixture 
of this kind. For the 3s yarn the mix- 
ing is made up of a certain per cent 
of waste, the exact percentage de- 
pending upon the mill making the 
quilts; it may be from 25 to 60 per 
cent. Generally speaking, card and 
comber waste is used. 

PICKING. 

The finer mixture is put through an 
opener and three processes of picking, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



583 



the speeds and other particulars be- 
ing the same as given in our last arti- 
cle for the number yarn. For the 
coarser yarn only two processes of 
picking are used, the speed of the 
beater at the breaker being 1,500 revo- 
lutions per minute, and at the finisher 
being 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the 
breaker is 40 pounds and at the fin- 
isher 39 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap at 
breaker and a 15-ounce lap at finisher. 
A variation of 12 ounces either side of 
standard weight is allowed for these 



be taken to see that the wire fillet on 
the top flats does not become choked 
up with the fly. In cards that have 
been in use for some time it is the rule 
rather than the exception to find fly 
at this point. Sometimes an adjust- 
ment of the brush up may entirely 
remedy the defect, but if not the fly 
has to be picked out by hand; or a 
better way is to put the stripping 
brush on the grinding brackets and 
drive it at a slow rate of speed un- 
til the flats have made either two or 
three complete revolutions. 




laps. Look out to keep your drafts 
so regulated that they will not cause 
the laps to split and lick. These laps 
are next put up 

AT THE CARD 
and as it is the custom to use but 
one count of wire fillet in a mill, the 
count used for this style of quilts 
would be the same as that used for 
bedspreads as given in the last arti- 
cle. 

The other particulars given in that 
article may also be used. Care should 



ANOTHER POINT 



to look out for is to see that the 
top flats are ground perfectly even. 
A great many overseers, if they look 
at the flats sharply, will be surprised 
to see that they are grinding more off 
of the back of the flat than at the 
front. This may not be the grinder's 
fault, but may be due to a defective 
grinding device, the main point being 
that they are not grinding in the 
same manner as they are working. It 
is just as well to grind the flats at 



584 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



least once a year on a flat grinding 
machine, the flats having to be taken 
off to do this; which of course means 
the loss of production for that card 
for a certain length of time, but it will 
mean a better quality of sliver, which 
will more than offset the former, as 
a great deal closer settings may be 
used. 

THE PRODUCTION 
for a week of 60 hours for all counts 
of yarn (in this article) except the 
3s should be 825 pounds and for the 
coarse yarn 950 pounds. The weight 
of the card sliver is 65 grains for all 
stocks. The yarn is next put through 
three processes of drawing for the 
finer counts and two processes for the 
coarse yarn. The top rolls used may 
be either leather covered or metallic. 
The advantages of both have been pre- 
viously stated. The speed of the front 
rolls for the longer staple cotton is 400 
revolutions per minute, and for the 
short staple 425, if convenient; or it 
may be run on the same line of ma- 
chines as the longer staple cotton, 
when the speed of the front roll would 
have to be the same. The weight of 
the sliver for the 30s and 20s yarn 
should be 70 grains per yard and for 
the 3s, 80 or 85 grains per yard. The 
sliver is put through the slubber and 
made into .60 hank roving for fine 
counts and .40 hank roving for the 
coarser count. The roving for the 30s 
is put through two processes of 

FLY FRAME, 
the hank roving being as follows: Two 
hank for first intermediate and 6.25 
hank for the next process; for the 20s 
the hank roving would be just the 
same at the first intermediate, but 4.50 
at the last process. For the 3s the 
roving would be put through only one 
more process, where it would be made 
into 1 hank roving. It is the general 
custom to spin the yarn for this class 
of fabric on mules on account of the 
soft twist being put into it, but in 
some cases the yarn is spun on the 
ring frame. The particulars given in 
previous articles for 20s and 30s yarn 
may be used, with the exception of the 
twist, which should be less than that 
given. If mule spun, the standard for 



twist used should be 2.75 times the 
square root of the count. If the 3s are 
spun on a ring frame, a frame should 
be used with a 2|-inch gauge, 11- 
inch diameter ring, 6^ -inch trav- 
erse. After passing through the ring 
frame the warp yarn is put through 
the spooler and warper and then 
through the slasher, and finally run 
upon a beam which has the required 
number of ends to make the quilt 

Dyeing Particulars. 

SKY BLUE FOR STRIPES. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent diamine rose B D; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT YELLOW. 
One per cent chromine yellow G; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
One-half per cent naphtamine 
brown N; % per cent naphtamine yel- 
low N N; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per 
cent Glauber's salt. 

RED. 

Four per cent benzo fast red 4 B; 30 
per cent Glauber's salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

One per cent diamine black B H; 2 
ounces diamine fast yellow B; 2 per 
pent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

One per cent diamine sky blue F F. ; 
lYi per cent diamine fast yellow F F.; 
2 per cent sal soda, 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt; after-treat with 2 per cent 
sulphate of copper. 

PEARL. 

One-quarter per cent diamine dark 
blue B.; % ounce diamine fast yellow 
B.; 2 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent 
Glauber's salt; after-treat with % per 
cent bichrome; y 2 per cent sulphate of 
copper. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



585 



RAINCLOTH 



Raincloth, commonly so-called, has 
no particular style of construction or 
character of weave, the name being 
acquired from the fact that the fab- 
ric is waterproofed during the finish- 
ing process. 

The most popular and best grades 
of raincloth may be defined as closely 
woven, smooth-face fabrics, made with 
twist warp, that is, cotton and wool, 
of cotton and worsted twisted 
together, and with all worsted or wool 
filling. The weave used for this fab- 
ric is what may be termed a five-har- 
ness satin ! . , see Fig. 1. This fab- 
ric, as the name implies, is exclusive- 
ly made up into raincoats or craven- 
ettes, worn principally as a covering 
in damp or rainy weather. The fabric, 
after it is finished, is impervious to 
water. 

Raincloth is a piece-dyed fabric. 
Such shades as drabs, fawns, light and 
dark browns and black are the pre- 
vailing colors. The warp yarn, as al- 
ready mentioned, is a two-ply thread, 
composed of a very fine cotton thread 
and coarser count of worsted or wool- 
en thread. The fabric is given a wool 
dye. The cotton does not take on col- 
or. The finished fabric presents what 
is termed a powdered effect, that is, 
little specks of white show over the 
entire surface of the fabric. 

The fabric may be elaborated by 
means of mercerized cotton threads 
being inserted at regular intervals in 
both warp and filling, producing check 
or plaid effects, or by using a given 
number of solid worsted threads and 
a given number of twist threads ar- 
ranged in some order producing a 
stripe effect. The fabric is also va- 
ried as regards quality, in so far that 
it is made with coarser counts of yarn, 
and less ends and picks per inch; in 
the cheaper qualities the plain weave 

and 2 twill are much in evidence. 

Analysis follows of a first-class fab- 
ric: 

Width of warp in reed, 60 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 56 inches; 



ends per inch in reed, 84; ends in 
warp, 5,040. 

21x4 reed. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 
per cent. 

Weight per yard finished, 10 ounces. 

Warp yarn 2-50s worsted counts, 
composed 1 end of l-30s worsted, 1 
end l-100s cotton. 

Filling, 80 picks per inch in loom, 
l-35s worsted yarn. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

For plain raincloth, that is, a one- 
filling fabric, a broad dobby loom, 
speed from 140 to 150 picks per min- 
ute, may be used; for the five-harness 
satin weave the warp is usually drawn 
in on 10 harnesses straight draw, so 
as not to overcrowd the heddles and 
prevent chafing of the warp ; for fancy 
raincloth the box, pick and pick loom 
is the one best suited for these fab- 
rics. 

FINISHING. 

The better quality of raincloth re- 
quires considerable attention in the 
finishing process. After the fabric 
comes from the loom, it is dyed, the 
wool or worsted only taking color, the 
cotton in the warp yarn remaining 
white. Twist yarn is more or less ir- 
regular, that is, the cotton may be 
more prominent in some places than 
in others; this requires the fabric to 

OBaBBDBDBB 
BBOBDBBDBD 

■ QHOBQMD 

BaBDBBDBOB 

DliaiDUDI 
□■□■■DBDH* 

BQBBOBDBBO 

BGBGBBCBUB 

Fig. 1. 

DOaOODODDB 

aaDaDDDDBa 

DGDDDDDBDg 

□aoooDBgDg 
oDDDDBDggg 
□aaQBanagg 
□DDiDDDgag 
oQBnoQoggg 
OBODaonagg 
■□□aaaaaaa 

Fig. 2. 
l>rawing-ln Draft 

be examined and where the cotton is 
found to be too prominent, it is dark- 
ened or inked in conformity with the 
ground color, after which follows the 
waterproofing process. This consists 
of immersing the fabric in a combina- 
tion of ingredients, such as greasy 
matters of all natures, resin, paraffin, 



586 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tannic acid, drying oils, salts of alu- 
mina, alums and carbonate of mag- 
nesia. After it is waterproofed, the 
fabric is pressed, made up into rolls, 
then made up into garments. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

As has been stated in the analysis 
of raincloth given above, the material 
used in the construction of the yarns 
is wool and cotton. As in the carding 
and spinning particulars only the con- 
struction of the cotton yarn has been 
described we will follow the usual cus- 
tom and give the processes, with the 
particulars at each stage, through 
which the cotton passes to produce the 
finished yarn. The count of the cot- 
ton yarn described for this fabric is 
100s. This may be made from either a 
fine, long-stapled Egyptian cotton or 
from a Sea Island cotton of a staple 
of iy 2 to 1% inches, the latter being 
the one most generally used. The bales 
of cotton are first stapled and graded 
and all those not up to standard 
length and quality are put one side, 
while the rest are mixed by hand. 

A LARGE MIXING 

is made so that there will be as few 
changes as possible in the yarn made 
from the different batches. It will be 
understood that it is often necessary 
to change certain parts of different 
machines for almost every mixing so 
as to suit some peculiarity of the 
mixing being made. These changes 
are generally slight and many times 
only mean the changes of certain 
speeds of settings, but when running 
the different mixings the first lot run 
through should be carefully watched 
to see that it compares exactly with 
the foregoing mixture. 

SEA ISLAND COTTON 

of a long staple is put through only 
two processes of picking and an open- 
er. Some overseers put the cotton 
through only one process. The beater 
used is generally of a two-bladed, rigid 
type and if two processes are used the 
speed of the breaker is 1,300 revolu- 
tions per minute and the speed of the 
second, 1,100 revolutions per minute. 



As will be seen, this speed is reduced 
considerably from that of the other 
cottons that have been previously de- 
scribed and the reason is that a great- 
er speed of the beater puts in neps, 
which, as every one knows, is the one 
thing to be most feared, because dirt 
can be taken out, but it is almost im- 
possible to take out neps. To be sure, 
a greater portion of them are taken 
out, but it means much extra work 
and care to do it, so it is always best 
to see that none are put in. 
The beats per inch given to the 
cotton as it is passing through the 
finisher picker are 29. The total weight 
of the finished lap is 28 pounds or a 
9^ -ounce lap. 
These laps are put up 

AT THE CARD. 

The settings used for this card should 
be close, a 12-l,000ths-inch gauge be- 
ing used to set the flats from the cylin- 
der and a 5-l,000ths-inch gauge to set 
the doffer from the cylinder. The wire 
fillet used should be No. 34s for cylin- 
der and 36s for doffer and flats. The 
card should have as many working as 
possible and the speed should be one 
complete revolution every 35 minutes. 
The draft of the card should never be 
less than 130 and some overseers in- 
crease this to 175 or 180 on this class 
of work. The stripping should be 
done three times a day and grinding 
as usual. The card should be kept 
unusually free from fly and dirt and 
should produce from 250 to 300 pounds 
per week of 60 hours. The weight of 
the sliver should be 40 grains per 
yard. Another part of the machine 
that is changed differently from all 
other stock is the speed of the licker- 
in. This should be a great deal less 
than that used for other stocks for the 
same reason as given for the low speed 
of the beater. The speed of the licker- 
in should be dropped from 350 to 400 
revolutions per minute (the usual 
speed) to about 275 revolutions per 
minute. The card sliver is next 
combed. The different 

COMBING PROCESSES 

vary, but those in most general use 
are as follows: Sliver lap machine, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



587 



ribbon lap machine and comber. The 
width of the lap is another part that 
has also been changed so that now it 
is 10 y 2 inches, whereas formerly an 
8% -inch lap was almost universal. The 
following particulars will be given for 
an 8%-inch lap; when a 10%-inch lap 
is used the proper weights may be 
calculated by proportion. The dou- 
blings at the sliver lap are 14 for an 
8% -inch lap and 20 for a 10 % -inch 
lap. 

The weight of a yard of lap at the 
front is 280 grains. These are put up 
at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 
6 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap 
at the front of this machine is 265 
grains. The laps are put up at the 
comber and doubled according to the 
number of heads that the comber con- 
tains; formerly it was the custom to 
have six heads, but within the last 
few years a comber of eight heads is 
used. The newest development in 
combers is the single head comber, 
many finding this more advantageous 
than the use of any of the previous 
machines. The 

PERCENTAGE OP WASTE 

taken out should be not less than 20 
for this class of stock and the trim- 
mings and settings should be as fol- 
lows: Combing starts at 5. Nippers 
open at 3%, close at 9 1 ,4. Lifters down 
at 6% and up at 8% to 9 ^ Top combs 
down at 5. Feed roll commences to 
move forward at 5%. The start of the 
feed roll to a certain degree controls 
the percentage of waste taken out and 
is the part that is changed after the 
settings of the comber have been 
made. A later feeding means an in- 
creased amount of waste. The detach- 
ing roll moves forward at 5%. There 
is a great deal of difference in settings, 
of the top combs to segment and 
cushion plate to needles or cylinder, 
among comber men, but good settings 
even for this grade of stock are with 
an 18 gauge from cushion plate to half 
lap and a 21 gauge from top comb 
to segment. Either a double or single 
row of needles in top comb may be 
used, both having their advantages 
and disadvantages. The weight of the 



sliver should be about 35 grains per 
yard. The sliver is next put through 
two processes of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 

the weight of the drawing at the fin- 
isher drawing being 60 grains per 
yard. Leather-covered top rolls are 
generally used for this stock and 
should be kept in perfect shape and 
frequently varnished, as should the 
leather detaching rolls of the comber 
and the top rolls of the sliver lap and 
ribbon lap machines. Several good 
recipes for varnish have been given 
in previous articles, one of which may 
be used. The sliver is put through 
the slubber and made into .80 hank 
roving. The front top rolls of this 
machine are generally varnished and 
some mills use rolls of a larger diam- 
eter, claiming less licking. The twist 
put in is the square root of hank be- 
ing made. The slubber roving is next 
put through three processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving at each proc- 
ess being as follows: First interme- 
diate, 2.25; at the second intermediate, 
5, and at the jack frames, 20 hank. The 
standard twist per inch is the square 
root of hank times 1.10 at first and 
second intermediates and 1.20 at fine 
or jack frames. Care should be taken 
to see that the roving is properly laid 
on the bobbin and that the bobbin, 
when full, is properly built; also that 
the settings of the rolls and traverse 
are correct. This yarn is either mule 
or ring spun. If ring spun the partic- 
ulars for a frame making 100s yarn 
are as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 5 inches; speed of 
spindles, 9,400 revolutions per minute. 
This yarn is then spooled and then is 
in shape to be twisted with the wor- 
sted yarn. 



Dyeing Particulars — Piece Dyeing. 
LIGHT OLIVE BROWN. 

One-half per cent anthracene acid 
brown G.; 6 ounces anthracene blue 
C; 2 per cent sulphuric acid; after- 
treated with 1 per cent chrome. 



58S 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



MEDIUM BROWN. 
One and one-half per cent anthra- 
cene chrome brown D.; y 2 Per cent an- 
thracene yellow B. N.; y 2 per cent 
anthracene acid blue D.; 2y 2 per cent 
sulphuric acid; after- treat with 2 per 
cent chrome. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Four per cent anthracene acid blue 
D. ; % per cent anthracene chrome vio- 
let B.; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; aft- 
er-treat with y 2 per cent chrome. 

SLATE. 

One-half per cent anthracene blue 

C; % per cent anthracene chrome 

brown D.; 1 per cent sulphuric acid; 

after-treat with y 2 per cent chrome. 

OLIVE. 

One and one-half per cent anthra- 
cene acid brown G.; % per cent an- 
thracene brown; y 2 per cent anthra- 
cene yellow B. N.; 1 per cent sulphuric 
acid; after- treat with 1 per cent 
chrome. 

DRAB. 

Six ounces anthracene blue C; y% 
per cent anthracene chrome brown D.; 
1 per cent sulphuric acid; after-treat 
with 1 per cent chrome. 
BLACK. 

Six per cent anthracene chrome 
black F. E.; 4 per cent aceteic acid; 2 
per cent sulphuric acid; after-treat 
with 2 per cent chrome. 

DARK BROWN. 

One per cent anthracene yellow B. 
N. ; 3 per cent anthracene chrome 
brown D.; iy 2 per cent anthracene 
acid blue D.; 3 per cent sulphuric 
acid; 2y 2 per cent chrome. 
DARK GREEN. 

Three per cent anthracene yellow 
B. N; 1 per cent anthracene chrome 
brown D.; 3 per cent anthracene blue 
C; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; after- 
treat with 3 per cent chrome. 



COTTON CASSMERE 

Cassimere was originally understood 
to mean a woolen cloth used for men's 
wear. This fabric differs from cash- 



mere in so far as the latter is finer 
and used principally for ladies' dress 
goods. Cashmeres are usually in solid 
colors only, and were originally made 
in Cashmere and near-by regions from 
yarn hand spun from the flossy wool 
of the Cashmere goat. 

"About the year 1816, a small herd 
was imported into France with the 
view to acclimatize them and breed 
them for the sake of their wool, but. 
the enterprise failed." The foregoing 
facts will suggest that this fabric is 
quite costly, consequently cheaper 
grades, cotton and wool imitations, 
have a liberal demand. 

In varying the quality of a fabric, 
the manufacturers have two objects in 
view: first, to reduce the cost; second, 
to retain the same general appear- 
ance. It then follows that the change 
effected is of degree, not of kind, con- 
sequently the variations usually con- 
sist in changing the number of ends 
and picks per inch, or substituting a 
higher or lower grade of yarn as the 
case may be. 

ANALYSIS. 

XXX 

25 1 — 1 — 1 



3 

7 

2 
1 
1 
1 

2 

7 

1 
x2 
xl 

28 



FACE WARP, 

ends Black. 

— 1 Black and drab. 

— 1 Black and white. 

— Black. 

— Black and white. 

— Black. 

— Black apd white. 

— Black. 

— 1 Black and drab. 

— 1 Black and white. 

— Black. 

— Black. 

— Bleach. 



BACK WARP. 
1 Green x. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 



28 
x Alternate garnet. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



589 



FACE WARP. 

11 ends Black 2/30. 

8 ends Black and drab 2/30. 

8 ends Black and white 20/60. 

1 end Bleach 2/40. 

28 

BACK WARP. 

19 ends Black 2/30. 
8 ends Drab 2/30. 
1 end Green 2/30. 

28 

ENDS IN FACE WARP. 
726 ends Black. 
528 ends Black and drab. 
528 ends Black and white. 
66 ends Bleach. 



1,848 

40 ends selvage. 



ENDS IN BACK WARP. 
1,254 ends Black. 
528 ends Drab. 
33 ends Green. 
33 ends Garnet. 



1,848 

40 ends selvage. 



1,888 
Filling 60 picks per inch, 2/26s black cotton. 

Width of warp in reed, 34 'nches; 
width of fabric finished, 31 inches; 
outside ends per inch, 111; 500x8 reed; 
ends in face warp, 1,848; 20 ends 
2-30s white selvage; total ends in face 
warp, 1,888; ends in black warp, 1,848 
20 ends 2-30s white selvage; total 
ends in back warp, 1,888; total ends 
in face and back warp, 3,776; take-up 
of face warp during weaving, 10 per 
cent; take-up of warp during weav- 
ing, 6 per cent. 

Weight of fabric per yard from 
loom, 7.85 ounces. Weight of fabric 
per yard finished, 7 ounces. 

When both warp and filling are 
changed from wool to cotton, as with 
the cassimere under consideration, the 
general appearance may be retained, 
but the feel or handle of the fabric 
will be entirely different — so much so 
that it will be apparent to the buyer. 

When such radical changes are 
made in fabrics as to substitute cot- 
ton for wool, it can no longer be sold 
under the same name; it therefore fol- 
lows that the fabric be designated, as, 
for instance, cotton cassimere. 

In making these cheaper grade fab- 
rics, the methods of manufacturing are 



simplified as much as possible, chiefly 
because the profit will not admit of 
any unnecessary expense. No intri- 
cate weaves are used; such weaves as 
2 . twill, 2 basket weave and 

■i ' 2 

common rib weave are principally 
used for operating face warp. These 
fabrics are generally made with two 
warps. The back warp interlaces with 
filling on the 8-harness satin order. 
(See Fig. 1.) These fabrics are 
confined to 16 harness, 8 harness 
for face warp and 8 for back 
warp ; the warp is drawn in one end 
face, and one end back, the first end 
of face warp on the first harness, the 
first end of back warp on second har- 
ness. (See draft, Fig. 2; Fig. 3, 
chain draft). 

The back warp for these fabrics is 
usually plain yarn, twist yarn being 



□DOaBOBanDQQBffiBD 
DDBffiBDDDDDBDHDna 

mamoaaaammmaanaa 

BDUnaCBaBDDDDGBS 

Dann«fflBaDaanBa«n 

DaBOBDDDaOBEBQDn 

■BBnaaaDBQBaQQoa 

■ DDDDDDEaBDDDDDBD 

cJODmnmaanaaumma 
a immunaaaamDmaao 

mrjmaanaammuaaoaa 

■DDDDDBDBDOnDaBBa 

DDQaBSBOonnoBO«a 

DaBDBQQQQOBfflBDOa 

BBBunoaonoBoncraa 

BDDDDDHB3BaaaaDBa 



cnanDBnn 

DDBQDDaa 
LODDDDDB 
DDDDBDnn 

DBaonnna 

□□QODDQB 

r Dcacnoa 

BDDDDDDa 



Fiji. 1. F g. 3. 

too expensive and the pattern of the 
back warp usually differs from the 
face warp in regard to the color ar- 
rangement, but the number of ends 
must be the same, if one end face 
warp and one end back warp fabric 
is required. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These fabrics may be woven on any 
box, harness loom. The loom should 
have stands for two warp beams, one 
for face warp and one for back warp; 
in some instances both warps are 
beamed on one beam, the back warp 
beamed tight because of less take-up. 
FINISHING. 

After the fabric comes from the 
loom, it is burled, examined and 
mended if necessary. The face of the 
fabric is sheared, after which it is run 
through a rotary press. The fabric 
in passing through the press runs 
over a perforated steam pipe, which 



590 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



partially saturates the fabric, then it 
is pressed by passing through heated 
cylinders, after which it is made up 
into rolls, then shipped. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Different mills make cotton cassi- 
mere out of different counts of yarn, 
but the fabric under description is 
composed of 2-30s warp and 2-26s fill- 
ing. These yarns would be made in 
a mill belonging to the second divi- 
sion, as given in a previous article. 
The yarn would be made from Ameri- 
can cotton of a fair grade, having a 
staple of about 1 1-16 inches. The mix- 
ing should be done by one of the va- 
rious methods that have been given 
in previous articles. The only point 
to be looked out for is to see that the 



or is connected by trunking or lattice 
work to the opener. The beater of the 
breaker picker for this kind of stock 
is generally of a two-bladed rigid type 
and its speed is 1,550 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce 
lap. These laps are put up at the in- 
termediate picker and doubled four 
into one. The beater of this machine 
is also generally of a two-bladed, rigid 
type, the speed of which is 1,500 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front of this picker 
is 37 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at 

THE FINISHER PICKER 
and doubled four into one. It is at 
this point that the cut -roving waste 
is mixed in with the raw stock. This 



Start of second pattern. Four 

patterns to repeat. 



times 
| equals faoe ends 
| equals back ends 



Figf. 2. 



cotton is thoroughly dry and aired out 
before being put through the opener. 
For this class of fabric the raw stock 
is put through three processes of 
picking and an opener. The good 
waste from all machines up to the 
slubber is mixed in before the cotton 
is fed to the opener. This waste should 
be picked up at regular and frequent 
intervals and spread throughout the 
entire mixing, and should not be al- 
lowed to accumulate in large lots, but 
should be run up as fast as collected. 
The 

LIFTING APRON 

should always be carrying up a load 
of cotton for the pin beater to strike 
off. This beater should be so adjusted 
that the proper amount of cotton is 
passed to the breaker picker, which is 
generally either directly connected 



is done by two methods, both of which 
have been described in a previous ar- 
ticle. If done by hand, care should be 
taken to see that the percentage of cut 
waste mixed is not too great, because 
this is apt to cause licking of the 
laps when they are being run at the 
card. The beater of this machine 
may be either a two-bladed rigid or 
a pin beater, either of which has its 
advantages. If of the two-bladed, rig- 
id type, the speed should be 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. This gives the 
cotton passing under its action 42 
beats per inch. Care should be taken 
to see that all the drafts in the 
pickers are properly directed where 
they will do the most good. The total 
weight of a lap for this class of goods 
should be 39 pounds or a 14% -ounce 
lap. A variation of the standard of 
half a pound (either side) is allowed. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



591 



All laps varying more than this are 
run through the finisher picker again. 
The picker laps are put up 

AT THE CARD, 

the draft of which for this class of 
work should not exceed 100. The wire 
fillet used should be No. 33 for cylin- 
der and 35s for doffer and flats. This 
is the American count of the wire; 
the equal English count is No. 100s 
for cylinder and No. 120s for doffer 
and top flats. The settings of the 
card should be the same as given iD 
connection with the article on "Indigc 
Prints." Strip cylinder and doffe 
three times a day and grind lightly 
at least once a month — twice a month 
is better — and then leave the grindei 
on half a day. The teeth should al- 
ways be kept sharp and never allowed 
to run faced. It is the general rule of 
grinders to set cards after grinding in 
large rooms where several grinders 
are employed. It is better to have one 
grinder or boss grinder to set all the 
cards and hold him responsible. Keep 
cards clean, especially the front end 
around and over the doffer bonnet. 
The speed of the licker-in should be 
375 revolutions per minute. The flats 
make one complete revolution every 45 
minutes. The sliver at the front 
weighs 65 grains per yard and the pro- 
duction is 800 pounds per week of 60 
hours. 

THE SLIVER 

at the cards should be sized at least 
once a week to see how it is compar- 
ing with previous sizings. The sliver 
is next put through three processes 
of drawing frames, which may have 
either metallic or leather-covered top 
rolls. If metallic rolls are used, keep 
them clean, because if dirt and waste 
collect in the flutes of either the top 
or bottom rolls, cut roving is almost 
sure to result. Keep top and bottom 
rolls well oiled. If top rolls are not 
kept oiled and are allowed to become 
dry, bad work is sure to result. Also 
see that the calender rolls have 
enough pressure on them to cause 
them to condense the sliver properly. 
Look out to see that the trumpets 
have the right size hole at the small 
end. The drawing frame sliver should 



be sized at least three times a day, 
and if sized four times it keeps the 
work a great deal evener. The sliver 
from at least four heads of each 
frame is taken and sized separately 
and then averaged; a variation of not 
more than 5 grains either side of 
standard is allowed; if more than 
this, the draft gear is changed. 

THE DOUBLINGS 

at the drawing for this kind of work 
are 6 into 1 at each process. The 
speed of the front roller is 400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The weight of_the 
sliver is 70 grains per yard. The draw- 
ing is next put through the slubber 
and made into .60 hank roving. It is 
not customary to varnish the slubber 
top leather rolls for this kind of work. 
See that the traverse is working prop- 
erly and that the top rolls are in 
perfect condition and set properly. 
Keep slubber as clear as possible and 
it will make returns many times over 
in extra production, which is often af- 
fected by dirt, fly, etc., getting be- 
tween the gears and filling up the 
teeth. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING 

is put through two more processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving being 
made at each as follows: First inter- 
mediate, 2.00, and second intermediate, 
6.00 hank for the warp yarn and 5.25 
hank for the filling yarn. Try to 
keep the roving a little on the heavy 
side of the standard and don't put 
more twist into roving than is actu- 
ally needed to draw it, so that it won't 
break back at the next process. Re- 
member that every extra tooth of 
twist put in cuts into the produc- 
tion to that extent. Keep the top 
rolls in good condition and change 
them frequently. Keep the chains 
clean and look out for bunches. Look 
out for single and double and 
watch the tension and the taper of 
the bobbin. Do not let the help fill 
up the bobbin after the frame has 
knocked off, but first be sure that the 
frame will knock off at the proper 
place. Keep frames well oiled and 
don't run bare spindles. 

Another thing to watch is 
jumping bobbins; set the gear 



692 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



properly to remedy this. Re- 
place all broken bolsters as soon as 
possible. After changing a frame 
over, use up all pieces from it as soon 
as possible. The roving for the warp 
yarn is spun on a ring frame, having 
the following particulars for 30s yarn: 
Gauge of frame, 21 inches; diameter 
or ring, 1%; twist per inch, 26.02, and 
speed of spindle 9,800 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then spooled, 
twisted into 2-ply yarn, spooled, and 
then warped, after which it is put 
through the slasher and run onto a 
beam with the required number of 
ends. The roving for filling may be 
either mule or ring spun; if the latter, 
use a frame with a 2% -inch gauge, 
11-inch diameter ring and spindle 
speed of 8,000. This yarn is then 
twisted into 2-ply 26s, after which it 
is conditioned and then is ready to be 
used. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BLACK. 
Ten per cent thion black TBC; 20 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 

BROWN. 

Ten per cent thion brown R.; 2 per 
cent thion violet black A.; 1 per cent 
thion yellow G.; 10 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 25 per 
cent salt. 

DARK GREEN. 

Eight per cent thion green B. ; 8 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

PEARL. 

Four ounces thion violet black A.; 
1 per cent thion black TBC; 1 per 
cent sodium sulphide; y 2 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
DRAB. 

Three per cent thion green G.; 3 per 
cent thion orange N.; 6 per cent sodi- 
um sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 
per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Six per cent thion navy blue R.; 2 
per cent thion blue B.; 8 per cent so- 
dium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 
per cent salt. 



SLATE. 
One and one-quarter per cent thion 
black TBC; iy z per cent sodium sul- 
phide; 2 per cent soda ash; 10 per 
cent salt. 

RED. 
Twenty per cent thiogene rubine O.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium. 
BLUE BLACK. 
Ten per cent thion blue black B.; 10 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 



ONDULE FABRICS 

Ondule fabrics are characterized by 
having one or both series of yarns 
warp or filling, drawn out of a straight 
line, while yet remaining in the same 
relative positions, i. e., the curving of 
the yarns is not made by certain yarns 




Fig. 1. 

crossing over others as in leno and 
similar fabrics. 

They may be placed in the novelty 
class. As such, the production is lim- 
ited in quantity in cotton goods by 
several factors, among which may be 
mentioned: First, costly loom attach- 
ments have to be applied in order to 
weave them to the best advantage; 
second, the demand is small and un- 
certain. 

Fig. 1 illustrates the effect formed in 
warp ondules, in which the filling re- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



693 



mains in straight lines, as in any or- 
dinary fabric. The warp forms the 
undulations. 

This type has not been developed to 
any extent in cotton goods on account 
of the reasons mentioned, and for an- 
other reason. Some of the ends 
curve considerably more than others, 
necessitating the use of several warp 
beams in order to have the ends at 
such a tension that some will not be 
slack in the shed, while others are 
tight. The sample in question, although 
containing only two different counts 
of warp yarns, one fine and one 
coarse, required five warps. 

It will be understood readily that a 
greater length of warp will be re- 
quired for a curved end than for a 
straight end in a given length of 
cloth. 

The white warp yarn in Fig. 1 is 
cotton. 

When woven in only one color or 




one count of warp the stripe effect is 
very faint. 

The ondule principle of construc- 
tion is not of recent origin, similar 
goods having been made to some ex- 
tent in the early part of the 19th cen- 
tury. 

Filling ondules are of more recent 
origin than warp ondules, and may be 
made much cheaper, one warp only be- 
ing required. Fig. 2 illustrates the ef- 
fect of a good filling ondule, in which 
the filling yarns form curved or wavy 
effects, the warp yarns remaining 
parallel to each other. The filling is 
considerably coarser than the warp, 
which accentuates the desired effect. 

Fabrics like Figs. 1 and 2, or of 
combinations of these two effects, may 
be made with similar loom attaph- 
ments or devices. The attachment 
generally used consists of a suitable 
mechanism, varying in detail with dif- 
ferent makers, for imparting to the 



reed, which is very deep, an up-and- 
down movement, so as to bring a dif 
ferent part of it to the fell of the 
cloth at each pick. 

The reeds used are of special con 
struction. In those used for warp on- 
dules the dents are arranged some- 
what like Fig. 3. 



^ 3 




The top, bottom and face of the 
reeds are straight, as in ordiuavy 
reeds. 

For weaving filling ondules the 
same device may be used for actuating 
the reed. The reed itself is made 
after the form shown in Fig. 4. The 
solid line indicates the top, and the 
dotted line the bottom of the reed. 
The dents are equal distances apart, 
both at the top and bottom. When 
this type of reed is used, a false reed 
is also used as a guide for the shuttle, 
as in lappet weaving. Another typa ^>f 
reed used is made fast at one end, and 
in loose sections at the other. Iheso 
sections contain, say, three or four 
dents. An engraved or grooved roller 
is made to separate and change the 
positions of the sectional end of the 
reed as desired. 

In addition to the methods describ- 
ed for producing ondule fabrics there 




is a newer method which has come 
into use in recent years that is prob- 
ably much more economical and pro- 
duces better results, at least for those 
fabrics which have the waves in a fill- 
ing direction. This method of produc- 
tion is comparatively simple, and may 
be described as follows: There are two 
sets of harnesses, and the warp 
threads are drawn through both sets. 



by* 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Only one warp is required for most 
styles of effects. At the back of the 
loom is placed an extra set of har- 
nesses, four or more being employed. 
These harnesses are bound together 
tightly, but instead of being all level, 
they are arranged at different heights 
and are all lifted or depressed to- 
gether. The warp threads are drawn 
.through the heddles in these back 
harnesses and then through the reg- 
ular harnesses at the front of the 
loom which produce the weave. The 
back harnesses are merely for the 
purpose of placing tension upon the 













Fig. 5. 



various warp threads, those which are 
lifted the highest having the greatest 
amount of tension, etc. The back har- 
nesses which are bound together are 
raised and lowered slowly, and the 
length of the wave determines the 
kind or the number of picks when the 
raising and lowering repeats. Of 
course, good yarn has to be used in 
making a fabric in this method, but 
if care be used the tension on the 
various threads will not be great 
enough to cause any large amount of 
breakages. Quite a number of differ- 
ent styles of fabrics have been pro- 
duced by this method, and highly de- 
sirable results secured at a relatively 
low cost. The width of the wave in 
the warp direction is determined by 
the method of drawing-in the threads 



on the back harnesses and the length 
of the wave in the filling direction is 
regulated by the raising and lowering 
of the harness. These back harnesses 
can be operated from the dobby head, 
inasmuch as such fabrics are usually 
made upon the ordinary dobby loom. 

Pig. 5 illustrates a cotton fabric in- 
tended to imitate the high-class fill- 
ing ondules. To obtain this effect two 
leno easers or slackeners have been 
used instead of the reed motion. There 
are 30 ends in each pattern, 15 of 
which were placed over the first and 
15 over the second easer. The easerp 
were then actuated so that the yarn 
over one of them wove slack for eight 
picks, while the yarn over the other 
was held tight, then vice versa for 
eight picks. The selvage ends were 
placed over the regular whip roll. Two 
warp beams were used, although one 
would perhaps have answered better. 
This is a simple method of obtaining 
the waves, but the effect obtained is 
not as good as when a special reed is 
used; nor can it be depended on, not 
being a positive motion. The easers 
have to be adjusted to a nicety and 
kept in that condition or each alter- 
nate section will appear more prom- 
inent than the others. 

Fabrics showing a much better ef- 
fect than that shown in Fig. 5 may be 
produced by the yarn easing method. 

The construction data for the sam- 
ple is as follows: 

Ends per inch, 48; picks per inch, 
48; width, 27 inches; warp yarn, 50s 
cotton, combed American; filling yarn, 
2-40s cotton, Sea Island, mercerized; 
696 ends on number 1 beam — this in- 
cludes 48 for selvages; 648 ends on 
number 2 beam, total, 1,344 ends; 
weight, 8 yards per pound; reed, 1 end 
in each dent; the weave is plain on 4 
harnesses. The attachments can be 
applied to and these goods made on 
any ordinary dobby loom. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

There are a great many different 
styles of ondules, and these com- 
prise many different counts of yarn 
according to the grade and quality 
of the fabric being made. This class 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



595 



of fabric is made in mills of the third 
division, as given in a previous article, 
or at least those plants whose equip- 
ment of machinery includes combers. 
The fabric that has been selected out 
of this class of goods is made up as 
follows: For the warp, 50s yarn is 
used and an American cotton, general- 
ly tne kind called peeler, having 
a staple of 1^4 to 1 5-16 inches, 
being used and for this fabric is 
combed. For the filling yarn a Sea 
Island cotton of l x /& inches is used. 
This is also a combed yarn, the count 
of which is 2-40s. For this article we 
will take each yarn and treat it sep- 
arately, starting with the mixing. 

MIXING. 
First take the American yarn. This 
is mixed, as has been previously stat- 
ed, at the mixing bin; the sliver waste 
from the machine up to the slubber is 
used. Care should be taken to see that 
too great an amount of this is not be- 
ing made at the dirferent machines. It 
is impossible to avoid making this 
waste altogether, but a large percent- 
age of it may be saved if watched 
carefully. This cotton is put through 
an opener and three processes of pick- 
ing. Keep the hoppers of the open- 
ers well filled, so as to obtain as even 
a feed as possible at the breaker pick- 
er. The speed of the beater at this 
machine is 1,050 revolutions per min- 
ute. See that the pin beater is set 
properly to obtain the required weight 
per yard of cotton being fed to the 
breaker picker. This picker is gener- 
ally provided with a two-bladed, rigid 
type of beater, the speed of which is 
1,550 revolutions per minute for this 
class of work. The total weight of 
lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the intermediate picker and doubled 
4 into 1. The beater of this picker is 
like that of the breaker, and its speed 
is 1,450 revolutions per minute. The 
total weight of the laps at the front of 
this picker is 37 pounds or a 12-ounce 
lap. The laps are put up at the fin- 
isher picker and doubled 4 into 1. 
The speed of the beater, if a rigid, two- 
bladed type, is 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, which gives the cotton pass- 
ing through it about 42 beats or blows 



per inch. The total weight of the lap 
at the front is 37 pounds or a 12 V 2 - 
ounce lap. A variation of one-half a 
pound is allowed either side of stand- 
ard; laps over or under this weight 
are run through the finisher again. At 
t'he finisher picker the cut waste from 
the fly frames is mixed in in the pro- 
portion of one lap of cut waste to three 
laps of raw stock. Be careful not to 
use too much cut waste, as it is apt 
to cause the laps to kick; also be care- 
iul to see that the drafts of the pickers 
are properly directed for the same rea- 
son. At the card the draft is not less 
than 100, a good draft being 120. The 
speed of the cylinder is 160 revolu- 
tions per minute; licker-in, 300 revolu- 
tions per minute; and the top flats 
make one complete revolution every 
34 minutes. 

DOFFER AND CYLINDER. 
The doffer should be as large as 
possible and clothed with a No. 35s 
wire fillet, as should the top flats; the 
cylinder is clothed with No. 34 wire 
fillet, the equivalent English count 
being 120s for doffer and 110s for cly- 
inder. Keep this wire sharp at all 
times, as dull wire is apt to cause 
kinked yarn. Grind at least once a 
month and reset all points after grind- 
ing. It is a good plan, although one 
not generally used, to brush out cyl- 
inder and doffer after grinding and 
before setting up. See that the grind- 
ing brackets for the top flats are set 
so as to grind the flats evenly across 
their face, when in their working po- 
sition. This is 

A GREAT FAULT 
with most of the grinding devices and 
should be carefully looked into. See 
that the doffer stripping comb is set 
to clean the doffer of the web prop- 
erly. Strip cards three times a day and 
keep front free from dirt and fly. The 
total production for a week of 60 
hours, allowing 10 per cent time for 
stoppages, etc., is 550 pounds, and the 
sliver weighs 45 grains per yard. The 
sliver is then combed. 

BEFORE BEING COMBED 
it has to be run through several dif- 
ferent processes. The order of these, 
as well as the machines themselves, 



596 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



differs, but it is most general to have 
the machines as follows, especially for 
this class of work: Sliver lap ma- 
chine, at which the doublings for an 
83-inch lap are 14 into 1, the draft of 
this machine being small, less than 2; 
the weight per yard is 285 grains; for 
larger width laps the doublings and 
weight per yard may be found by pro- 
portion; this is also true at the rib- 
bon lap machine. At the ribbon lap 
machine the doubling is 6 into 1, and 
the weight of the lap is 265 grains per 
yard. These laps are put up 
AT THE COMBER 
and doubled according to the number 
of heads, 6 or 8 being generally used, 
a 6-head comber generally using an 
8|-inch lap and an 8-head comber a 
10%-inch lap. These particulars are 
given for the Heilmann combers and 
not the later foreign makes, which 
have been tried with varying success 
the last four or five years. For this 
stock take out 15 per cent waste and 
set time as given in a previous article. 
The speed should be about 95 nips per 
minute. Keep all the leather top rolls 
of sliver and ribbon lap machines as 
well as those of the draw box and 
detaching rolls of the comber in per- 
fect condition and well varnished. It 
is a good plan to varnish the leather- 
covered detaching rolls once a week. 
A little trouble in this direction is well 
repaid. Look out to keep the per- 
centage of 

WASTE 
at the different machines uniform. 

If two or more ends break down on 
the table, break end running into the 
can, and before piecing up again, see 
that all the ends are running. Comb- 
ers should be scoured at least once 
a year, when they should be taken 
down and all parts reset and timed. 
Keep table smooth and polished and 
do not touch with the hands those 
parts over which the combed sliver is 
running. The weight per yard of the 
combed sliver is 40 grains. This sliv- 
er is put through two processes of 
drawing, being doubled 6 into 1 at 
each process. Leather-covered top 
rolls are generally used for this class 
of stock and they should be looked 
out for to see that they are well oil- 



ed and varnished and in perfect con- 
dition. See that all stop-motions are 
in working order so that single and 
double may be prevented as far as 
possible. The weight of the drawing is 
70 grains per yard. This is put through 
the slubber and made into .50 hank 
roving, after which it is run through 
three processes of 

FLY FRAMES, 
the hank roving at each being as fol- 
lows: First, 1; second, 3, and jack, 10 
hank. Watch the leather rolls, also the 
shape and lay of the roving en the 
bobbins. Mark all roving small and dis- 
tinctly near bobbins, and do not al- 
low pieces to accumulate. This rov- 
ing is taken to the ring spinning 
room and made into 50s on a frame 
having a gauge of 2% inches; uiameter 
of ring, iy 2 inches; length of trav- 
erse, 6 inches, and spindle speed of 
10,000 revolutions per minute. The 
yarn is then spooled and warped, after 
which it is put through the slasher, 
where, in addition to being slashed, 
the required number of ends are run 
onto one beam, and then it is ready 
for the weave room. 

The Sea Island cotton for 

THE FILLING YARN 
is put through either one or two proc- 
esses of picking, generally two. The 
speed of a two-bladed, rigid type of 
beater at the breaker is 1,350 revolu- 
tions per minute, and the total weight 
of lap is 30 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. 
These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at 
the finisher picker. The speed of the 
two-bladed, rigid type is 1,250 revolu- 
tions per minute, or about 29 blows 
or beats per inch of cotton passing 
through. The total weight of this lap 
is 28 pounds or a 9%-ounce lap. At 
the card the draft should not be less 
than 120, and speed of the licker-in, 
275 revolutions per minute. The top 
flats make one complete revolution 
every 35 minutes. The production is 
300 pounds per week of 60 hours, and 
the weight of the sliver 40 grains per 
yard. 

THE SETTINGS 
for the card should be somewhat clos- 
er than when carding peeler cotton; 
for example, the doffer should be set 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



597 



to the cylinder with a 5 instead of a 
7 gauge, and the flats should be set 
with a 10 instead of a 12 gauge, which 
is used to set peeler cotton. The oth- 
er particulars given above may be also 
used with Sea Island cotton. This sliv- 
er is next put through the same ma- 
chines as given above for combing. 
The weight of the sliver lap machine 
is 240 grains per yard and the ribbon 
lap 220 grains per yard. The settings 
at the comber should be closer than 
those, used on peeler cotton and the 
percentage of waste taken out should 
be 20 per cent. The weight of the 
sliver is 35 grains per yard. 

This sliver is put through two proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING, 
being doubled 6 into 1. The speed of 
the front roll should be 350 revolutions 
per minute, and the weight of the 
sliver 60 grains per yard. It is im- 
portant that extra care be taken with 
the top rolls, "stop-motions, etc., When 
running this kind of stock, otherwise 
the particulars given with peeler cot- 
ton may be followed. The leather top 
rolls of the slubber are varnished for 
this stock and it is better to use rolls 
of a little larger diameter than those 
used for peeler cotton. The hank rov- 
ing made at the slubber is .65 which 
is put through two processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving made at 
each process being as follows: First 
intermediate, 2.25; and second, 8 hank. 
Use a finer grain leather for the roll 
covering than that used for peeler cot- 
ton and look out for all the particulars 
given above, except that extra care 
should be given to the Sea Island 
stock. This roving is taken to the 
mule room and spun into 40s yarn, 
after which it is generally mercerized 
under tension and twisted into two- 
ply 40s, when it is ready to be woven. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
LIGHT SKY BLUE. 
Two ounces diamine sky blue FF.; 
20 per cent Glauber's; after-treat with 
y 2 per cent sulphate copper. 

LIGHT PEA GREEN. 
One-quarter per cent diamine sky 
blue FF.; V% per cent diamine fast 



yellow FF.; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 
1 per cent sal soda; after-treat with 1 
per cent sulphate copper. 

PEARL. 

Two ounces diamine brilliant blue 
G. ; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; after- 
treat with y 2 per cent sulphate of cop- 
per. 

PINK. 

One-half per cent Erika pink; 10 per 
cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. 

CREAM. 
One-thirty-second ounce diamine 
fast yellow B.; l-64th ounce diamine 
catechine 3 G.; 10 per cent Glauber's; 
1 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent diamine brown M.; 
1 per cent diamine catechine 3 6.; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda; after-treat with 1 per cent 
chrome. 

GREEN. 

Two per cent diamine green G.; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

Two ounces diamine dark blue B.; 
l-16th ounce diamine fast yellow B.; 
10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda; after-treat with y 2 per cent 
chrome and y 2 per cent sulphate of 
copper. 

LIGHT SNUFF BROWN. 

Six ounces diamine catechine 3 G.; 
6 ounces diamine catechine B.; after- 
treat with y 2 per cent chrome and y 2 
per cent sulphate of copper. 
SLATE. 

One per cent diamine black BH.; 2 
ounces diamine fast yellow B.; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda; 
after-treat with y 2 per cent chrome; y 2 
per cent sulphate of copper. 



UMBRELLA CLOTHS 

The name given to these fabrics in- 
dicates the use to which they are 
subjected. It stands for cloths of 
widely different qualities, materials 
and weaves. The weaves, with the ex- 
ception of those used for umbrella 



598 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ginghams, are of small repeating 
types, as plain, three-end twill, and 
five and six end twills of four inter- 
lacings in a repeat. 

Being subjected to extremes of 
weather, the constructions of the 
cloths are necessarily good. 

All-cotton umbrella cloths are usu- 
ally woven white, then piece dyed in 
solid colors. For cotton warp and 
worsted filling goods the warp yarn 
is usually dyed before being woven. 
This is especially the case in colors 
other than black. It is much harder 
to get a fast color, one of the essen- 
tial features of a good umbrella cloth, 
on union piece-dyed goods than on 
yarn-dyed goods. Black is the princi- 
pal color used. 

IN THE BETTER GRADES 
of umbrella cloths it is common to find 
silk or wool in combination with cot- 
ton. These materials are sometimes 
combined in the same yarn, being 
mixed before spun. In other cases 
the yarns on a beam are all of 
one material, and yarns of different 
materials, from separate beams, are 
used in one fabric. 

The analysis of a good grade of um- 
brella cloth shows it to have been 
made of silk and cotton, the selvages 
being of silk and the body of the 
warp arranged two ends of cotton and 
one end of silk alternately. The fill- 
ing is cotton. This is a so-called silk 
umbrella cloth. 

A good cotton umbrella fabric with 
a twill weave is constructed as fol- 
lows: Ends per inch, 84; picks per 
inch, 112; width in reed, 28% inches; 
width of cloth, 27 inches; ends in 
warp, 2,312; reed, 2 ends per dent; 
warp 60s combed American cotton 
filling, 40s combed Egyptian cotton; 
weave, -j-L — ! twill. Plain selvages. 
The cloth was woven on 12 harnesses, 
2 for selvages and 10 for ground. 

One of the most essential features 
of a good umbrella cloth is a good sel- 
vage, as upon such depends not only 
the appearance of the cloth, but its 
utility. A cloth between two ribs of 
an umbrella would be worthless if it 
contained a broken selvage. 

We will consider a plain weave um- 
brella cloth, containing a good sel- 



vage, where 2 picks work as one and 
2 picks are inserted in each shed. The 
ground is reeded 2 ends in each dent 
and the selvages 4 ends per dent. 

The construction of this fabric is 96 
ends per inch of 60s warp yarn: 104 
picks per inch of 56s filling; American 
warp and Egyptian filling, combed 
stock. 

An ordinary single box dobby loom 
is generally used when making these 
goods, the large number of ends pei 
inch necessitating a greater number 
of harnesses than are usually run on 
cam looms. 

Care has to be exercised, when 
weaving, to make the goods as near 
perfect as possible, because defects 
made in the loom have to be remedied 
afterward, or the goods have to be 
sold as seconds. 

FINISHING. 

On account of the combinations or 
materials found In mixed umbrella 
fabrics, the finishing and dyeing proc- 
esses are of great importance and 
have to be done with care in order 
that each material will look the same 
when finished and retain its color 
under severe usage. Especial care has 
to be taken with silk selvage goods, 
because, if the selvages are damaged, 
the goods have to be sold for other 
purposes, with a consequent loss in 
price. 

Cotton umbrella cloths are singed or 
sheared, crabbed and steamed. If they 
contain silk selvages, the latter are 
moistened slightly just before they 
reach the singe plates or flames. 

When the goods are required to be 
sheared, they are first thoroughly burl 
ed, all knots and other uneven im- 
perfections being removed so that the 
cloth will present an even surface, 
free from holes, after shearing. When 
steaming and drying the goods, it is 
necessary to have them started and 
kept straight, so that the warp yarns 
may be straight and the width uniform 
throughout the piece. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The goods considered in this article 
are made in the same kind of mill and 
from the same grade of yarns as on- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



dule fabrics, which were dealt with 
In the previous article. The carding 
and spinning data of the one will 
therefore apply equally well to the 
other, and need not be repeated here. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

FAST BLACK. 

Dyed on the jig machine. First bath, 
100 gallons; 8 pounds immedial black 
NN.; 10 pounds sodium sulphide; 3 
pounds soda ash; 25 pounds common 
salt; run the pieces through for one 
hour, take off to a washing machine, 
and give a good rinsing with water; 
after-treat with 3 per cent chrome; 3 
per cent acetic acid for 30 minutes at 
180 degrees F.; soap with 10 pounds 
soap; 2 pounds olive oil; 4 pounds sal 
soda; 50 gallons water at 180 degrees 
F., and rinse. Boil the soap, olive oil 
and sal soda together for one hour be- 
fore using. For subsequent lots 2 per 
cent soda ash, 7 per cent immedial 
black NN.; 8 per cent sodium sul- 
phide, 6 per cent common salt will be 
sufficient for the dyeing process. 

A SULPHUR BLACK 

is the fastest to light, washing and 
general wear. Another black can be 
dyed with sulphur black topped with 
logwood: Six per cent immedial black 
NG.; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt; rinse 
well, and after-treat with 2 per cent 
chrome; rinse and dye with 5 per cent 
extract logwood; rinse and soap at 
150 degrees F.; y 2 ounce soap to 1 gal- 
lon water. 

And again a good black can be dyed 
with a one- dip black fixed with chrome 
which is very fast to light and wash- 
ing, but not so fast as sulphur black. 

A ONE-DIP BLACK. 

Ten per cent diamine fast black F.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt; dye at the boil for one 
hour; rinse and after-treat with 2 p*er 
cent chrome; 2 per cent sulphate cop- 
per at 175 degrees F.; 3 per cent acetic 
acid; rinse well and soap with weak 
soap solution at ±o0 degrees F. 



HUCKABACK TOWELS 

Huckaback, or huck, is a name given 
to a certain type of weave which is 
extensively utilized in the manufac- 
ture of towels, being excellently adapt- 
ed for that purpose. 

Two of the principal features desir- 
ed in a towel are, first, strength; sec- 
ond, a readiness to absorb moisture. 

An examination of huckaback, Figs. 
1 and 2, will show that it is compos 
ed for the greater part of plain weave; 
this gives strength to the fabric. 

The moisture-absorbing qualities of 
a huck towel are aided by the long 
floats of yarn which appear regularly, 
as on ends and picks 2, 4, 7 and 9 of 
Fig. 2, as well as in the light twist or 
small number of turns per inch put in 
the yarns. The softer twisted the 
yarns, the better they are adapted for 
toweling. 

The selvage ends, which are requlr 
ed to bear the greatest amount of 
friction of any of the yarns in the 
loom, are usually of 2-ply yarns, 
whereas the yarns in the body of the 
cloth are single, twisted not any hard- 
er than is necessary to enable them 
to weave well. 

Huckaback toweling is sold to the 
consumers in various ways, by piece, 



■DHOHCnnHU 

ddoddbdbdb 
bdbdbubuhd 
dbdbd-jdbqb 
bdbdbddddg 
dbdbcbdbdb 



Fig. 1. 



BDBDBDBDBD 

DDDDDBDBDB 
BDBDBDBDBD 
DDDDDBDBDB 
BDBDBDBDBD 
DBDBDBOBDB 
BOBQBnaQOO 
DBDBDBDBDB 
BDBDBDDODD 
QBOBDBQBDB 

Fig. 2. 

BDBDBDBDaa 

dddddbdbdb 
dddddbdbdb 
bdbdbdbdbd 

— " IDBDBOB 

— laa 



BDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBD 
DDDDDBDBDB 
DODDOBOBOB 
BDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBD 
DBDBDBDBDB 
GBDBDBDBCB 
BDBDBDLDDD 
BDBDBDDDDD 
DBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDB 

Fig. 3. 



Fig. 4. 

yard and towel. The cloth sold by the 
piece or yard is generally white. Com- 
pleted towels, which are usually hem- 
med, hemstitched or fringed, vary in 
size from about 17 by 32, to 25 by 45 
inches for general use. A favorite size 
for barbers' use is 14 by 26 inches. 
These are all white, or are white in 
the body of the towel and colored on 



600 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



the borders, usually with light red or 
blue. 

Towel borders usually consist of al 
ternate stripes of colored and white 
filling, varying relatively in size as de- 
sired, and of weaves other than those 
of the huckaback type. 

An analysis of a huckaback towel 
shows the following construction data: 
Ends per inch, 50; picks per inch, 44; 
width of cloth, 17 y 2 inches; warp 
yarn, 14s; filling yarn, 10s; ends in 
warp, 854 of 14s for the body of the 
cloth, 40, i. e., 20 on each side, of 2- 
28s for selvages; 23 reed, 2 ends of 14s 
per dent; selvages, each 20 ends, 
drawn as 10 in 5 dents; the weave is 
shown in Fig. 3. The drawing-in 
draft for reproduction on a dobby 
loom is straight with Fig. 1 as a chain 
draft. Weave Fig. 3 differs from the 
chain draft Fig. 1 in having two picks 
in a shed. 

To enable a greater length of cloth 
to be woven in a short time, in fact, in 
one-half the running time ordinarily 
required, two strands of filling are 
wound together as one on a bobbin 
and run off together in the loom. In 
reality, although the cloth contains 44 
picks per inch, the shuttle traverses 
the loom lay only 22 times to weave 
one inch of cloth. 

Another method of inserting two 
picks in a shed at once is by the use 
of a shuttle containing two bobbins of 
filling. Objections to this method are 
that it is necessary to use a shuttle 
of a greater length than can be run 
on an ordinary loom, and extra waste 
is made if the filling from both bob- 
bins does not end at the same time. 

Huckaback towels are usually made 
of linen, cotton, or a combination of 
linen and cotton. A cloth under con- 
sideration of the latter type, of a good 
quality, is 18 inches wide and contains 
58 ends and 37 picks per inch finished. 
The yarns in both warp and filling, 
with the exception of the selvage ends, 
are single. There are 8 ends of 2 -ply 
yarn for each selvage. 

Fig. 4 is the weave used for this 
cloth; 12 harnesses are required, 10 
for ground and 2 for selvages. 

For plain white huckaback toweling 
an ordinary dobby loom is used, one 



warp beam and one shuttle only being 
required. Coarse cloth is usually wo- 
ven on 4 harnesses, with a cross draw. 
When colored borders are required 
a dobby box loom containing a re- 
peater or multiplier motion is the best 
to use. A fringe motion is added to 
this when both borders and fringe are 
required. This motion automatically 
pulls the cloth forward several inches 
between each two towels, the distance 
being regulated as desired. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Huckaback towels are made up of 
various counts of yarns which differ 
according to the mills in which they 
are made, and also several grades may 
be made in a single mill, but the di- 
vision of mills that they are made in 
is the second. The fabric under de- 
scription is made up of 14s warp yarn 
and 10s filling; the selvage yarns are 
2-28s. 

THESE YARNS 

are all made up of American cotton, 
the warp and filling yarns being made 
from a 1 1-16-inch staple and the sel- 
vage yarn of 1% -staple cotton. The 
cotton for these mixings is mixed by 
machine, large mixings being made. 
They are put through an opener and 
three processes of picking. Only 
those openers that have the best 
means of cleaning the pin beater 
should be used, as there are several 
on the market which do not clean the 
pins properly. Especially is this the 
case when running sliver waste, the 
waste becoming wound around the 
beater, which will be seen to be a 
great detriment. 

THE BEATERS 

of all three of the pickers are gener- 
ally of the two-bladed, rigid type and 
the particulars given below will be ap- 
plied to them. The speed of the breaker 
picker beater for this stock is 1,550 
revolutions per minute and the total 
weight of the lap at the front is 40 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps 
are doubled four into one at the in- 
termediate picker and pass to the beat- 
er, the speed of which is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



601 



of the lap at the front of this machine 
is 37% pounds or a 10-ounce lap. From 
the intermediate picker the laps are 
put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. The speed of 
this beater is 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the laps 
at the front of this picker is 39 pounds 
or a 14%-ounce lap. The laps are al- 
lowed a variation of one-half a pound 
either side of the standard weight. 
When more than this, they are put up 
at the back and run through the 
picker again. 

WATCH THE EVENER 
motion to see that it is working prop- 
erly. The cotton at the finisher pick- 
er receives 42 blows or beats per inch 
fed. This cotton is generally a very 
dirty cotton and care should be taken 
to get all the dirt out possible, so that 
the cards will not have to do picker 
work. The laps from the picker are 
put up at the card, the draft of which 
is generally not more than 95. The 
speed of the licker-in is generally 300 
revolutions per minute and the top 
flats make one complete revolution 
every 50 minutes. The settings of the 
card should be the same as those giv- 
en in the article on "Indigo Prints." 

THE STRIPPING 
should be done three times a day and 
cards, especially the fronts, should be 
kept clean. The cards should be 
ground at least once a month, when 
the grinding rolls should be allowed 
to stay on half a day. Always grind 
lightly, and it is a good plan to have 
traverse grinding rolls send the grind- 
ing disk across the surface of the wire 
fillet as quickly as possible and not in 
the slow manner in which it is gener- 
ally done. Look out for the emery on 
the grinding disk to see that it does 
not become greasy. The emery should 
be cleaned frequently with some fluid 
that will remove the grease. The 
WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 
should be 65 grains per yard and the 
production for a week of 60 hours 750 
pounds. As these yarns are carded 
they are put up at the drawing frame 
and run through three processes, the 
doublings being 6 into 1 at each proc- 
ess. The drawing frames may be 



equipped with metallic or leather top 
rolls. If the latter are used, keep the 
flutes clean; and if the former, see 
that the top rolls are always well cov- 
ered and varnished. No matter which 
top rolls are used, it is important to 
see that the stop motions are all in per- 
fect working order, especially those 
operating the spoons, for it is here a 
great deal of trouble is caused by 
single and double if they are out of 
order. The speed of 

THE FRONT ROLL 
should be about 350 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of the sliver at 
the front of the finisher should be 75 
grains. This sliver is put up at the 
slubber and made into .60 hank rov- 
ing. From the slubber it is put 
through one process of fly frames for 
the warp and filling yarns and two 
processes for the selvage yarn. The 
hank roving being 2.25 for warp and 
filling and 1.50 for selvage at the sec- 
ond intermediate, the hank roving for 
the latter yarn is 5.50. At these 
frames be sure that the top rolls are 
in good condition and that the traverse 
motion is working properly. The top 
rolls should be cleaned frequently, at 
least twice a week, and new rolls put 
in at regular intervals, these being 
determined by various conditions, 
which are different in every mill. 
Never run loose, fluted, bruised or 
uneven top rolls. Watch to see that 
all 

THE TENDERS 
mark their roving correctly and that 
they do not let single and double go. 
Do not allow pieces to collect, but use 
them up as fast as possible. Keep 
floor of card room clean at all times, 
as nothing creates so poor an impres- 
sion on a visitor as an untidy card 
room floor. From the card room the 
roving is taken to the ring spinning 
room and made into 14s warp on a 
frame having a gauge of three inches) 
diameter of ring, 21 inches; length of 
traverse, 7 inches; twist per inch, 17.- 
77, and spindle speed of 9,000 revolu- 
tions per minute. The 10s filling yarn 
is made on a frame having a 21-inch 
gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 7-inch 
traverse, 10.28 twist per inch and 
spindle speed of 6,400 revolutions per 



€02 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



minute. The selvage yarn is spun on 
a frame having 2 1-inch gauge, 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 6%-inch traverse, 
25.13 twist per inch and spindle speed 
of 9,700 revolutions per minute. The 
warp yarn is put through a spooler 
and warper and from here put through 
a slasher. The selvage is put through 
a spooler and then twisted, spooled 
again, and run onto a selvage beam 
after being put through a slasher. 



IMITATION GAUZE— Mock Leno 

These weaves are very extensively 
used in cotton manufacture. 

The imitation of leno or gauze fab- 
rics can be made extremely close; in 
some cases the deception has even im- 
posed on experienced buyers. 

These weaves are commonly used 



DBQimoanana 

■iioaoiiiDoa 
l.bqbqbqbqbob 
aoaaaaaaaaao 
oooaaaoooaaa 
BmnanaQanaa 

DBnBDBDBQBUB 

bbbtioobbbood 
DaDBDaaBaaDB 
BnanaaanaDBD 

UQOBBBOOOBBB 

■□1DBUBDBDBD 

Fig. 1. 



for such fabrics as dress goods, cur- 
tains, ladies' aprons, men's shirts, 
canvas cloth, etc. These fabrics are 
characterized by three or more warp 
threads and three or more filling picks 
interlacing with each other very 
loosely, while the following warp and 
filling threads form a complete break 
and so can readily be kept apart for 
small spaces. 

In the warp these breaks are aug- 
mented by the reed by leaving one, 
two, three or more dents empty (if, 
for example, we use a plain six-har- 
ness imitation gauze weave, as shown 
in Fig. 1, ends one, two and three 
would be drawn in one dent, while 
ends four, five and six would fill an- 
other dent) and by leaving one, two or 
more dents empty between the first 
group of three ends and the second 
group of three ends. The number of 
dents to be left empty depends upon 
the space desired between each group 
of ends. 



Diagram Fig. 2 shows the character 
of fabric woven with weave shown in 
Fig. 1. 

A four and four, or five and five 
mock leno is based on the same prin- 
ciple as the three and three described 
above; in the four and four the ends 
are reeded four in one dent, while in 




Fig. 2. 

the five and five the ends are reeded 
five in one dent. 

The four and four and the five and 
five end patterns produce a slightly 
more open effect than the three and 
three end pattern. 

The former is also suitable for a fin- 
er make of cloth, as the open effect 
can be made with a larger number of 
ends per inch. 

In the five and five end or ten-har- 
ness weave (see Fig. 3) the second, 
fourth, seventh and ninth ends serve 
to pull the picks together in fives and 
make a decided opening in the cloth 
between the fifth and sixth picks; in 



oBnBaaoBDB 
aaBaaoooaa 

gaoBGBDanB 
BBBBDQOOO 
□BDBQBDBOB 
BDBDBDBOBD 
OaDOGBBBBB 
BOBOBDBDBa 

dgddqbbbbb 

BdBDBDBDBO 

Fig. 3. 



the pattern the same thing takes place 
with the ends — they are pulled togeth 
er in fives by the second, fourth and 
seventh and ninth picks, and if two 
dents be skipped between each group 
of five ends it will produce the effect 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



603 



In fabric shown in Fig. 4. In addition 
to plain gauze fabrics, as shown in 
Fig. 2, these weaves are used in con- 
nection with plain woven fabrics in 
the form of a pattern (see Fig. 4) and 
also in the form of checks. The fab- 
ric shown in Fig. 4 shows a series of 
ends working gauze or mock leno 
throughout the entire pattern, forming 
a stripe through the entire length of 
the fabric. In the check effects these 
ends are made to weave plain or other- 
wise as may be desired. Fig. 5 illus- 
trates a mock leno three and three 
check pattern, showing 18 ends working 





Fig. 4. 

gauze from 18 picks and the next 18 
ends working plain for 18 picks, these 
two series of ends alternating into a 
plain weave at the end of the 18 picks. 
These check pattern fabrics in nearly 
all instances are given a wet finish 
whenever they are woven with bleach- 
ed and dyed yarn. A great many of 
these mock leno fabrics are made 
with grey yarns and finished after 
the cloth is woven, being bleached 
and sold in the white state or piece- 
dyed as the demand requires. When- 
ever colors are necessary for stripes, 
yarns which are fast to the bleaching 
process are used, and in this manner 
it is possible to make cloth some- 
what cheaper than in any other meth- 
od. A good many fabrics have been 
made upon this principle where silk 
is used in combination in the warp 
and an openwork effect is obtained 
which can seldom be obtained in any 
other way in as reasonable a manner. 



By reason of the fact that the warp 
is reeded three in one dent, skip- 
ping one, two or more dents between 
each three ends will cause the plain 
woven part of the fabric to show more 
or less streaky; that is, it will show 
each of the three ends lying close to- 
gether instead of being evenly distrib- 
uted across the fabric. When sub- 
jected to the wet finish these ends 
will take their proper places. When 
making a gauze stripe fabric, as shown 
in Fig. 4, the ends operating the gauze 
weave are on a separate beam because 
of the difference of take-up in warp 
during weaving. 

Another method of producing a mock 
leno is to have two ends appear as 
if they were twisted around several 
other ends, that is, not resting par- 
allel to one another. This is readily 
produced by allowing the two ends to 
come together for two picks, then 
gradually spreading them for six or 
eight picks, then allowing them to 
gradually come together again for two 
picks. These two ends in the pattern 
are of coarser counts than the body 
of warp, usually a three-ply thread, 
and are on a separate beam from the 
body of the warp. 

Fig. 6 shows design and reeding plan 
for a fabric of the above description. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 37% inches; 
width of fabric finished, 36 inches; 
ends per inch finished, 68; reed, 1,200; 
take-up of warp (ground warp) dur- 
ing weaving, 10 per cent: take-up of 
leno warp during weaving, 20 per cent. 

DRESSING. 
12 ends white. 

8 ends blue. 

6 ends white. 

4 ends blue. 

2 ends white. 

2 ends blue. 
10 ends white. 

8 ends blue. 
16 ends white. 

1 end dark blue mercerized cotton. 

8 ends white. 

1 end dark blue mercerized cotton. 
16 ends white. 

8 ends blue. 
10 ends white. 

2 ends blue. 

2 ends white. 

4 ends blue. 

6 ends white. 

8 ends blue. 

134 ends in pattern. 



604 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Ends in pattern: 88 ends white 
40s; 44 ends blue l-40s; 2 ends dark 
blue 3-30s; total, 134 ends. 

Filling, 70 picks per inch l-50s 
bleached cotton. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These fabrics are mostly woven with 
but one color filling; consequently any 
ordinary harness loom would answer 
for weaving these fabrics. Competi- 
tion and economy are factors that 
have caused the discarding of the old 
roller loom, using instead the dobby 
harness motion loom. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics are sometimes given 
a dry finish, depending chiefly upon 
the weave and pattern. In some quali- 
ties in which only one color warp and 
filling is used, the fabric is bleached, 
hot pressed, then made up into rolls 
ready for shipment. When two or more 
colors are used, the fabric in most 

QBOfflOaOfflOBOBafflDaaEOOOBBBOOOBBBOOOBBB 
BOBOBDBOBOBaBOBOBDBaBaBaBOBaaOBOBDBQ 
□BOBDBOBC 1 *, *i .i*'_.v •jQB;BuB_BiJBCBOBOBOB 
BaaDBaBDBDBDBDBDBDBIiBUrjaBBBDLILBBBLLL'. 
OBOBaSOBOBOBaBDBDBaBOBOBOBOBOBOBOBa* 
BaeaBDaGBa£«G*a*OaCBGBnBDBDBDBDBGBDBD 
OaDBasaaUBQBQBDBaBOOUBBBCjaOBBBGDDBBB 
BDfflaBDBDBDBDBDBDBDBDBnBDBnBDBDBDBDBn 
DBOBDBaBDBDBaBDBaBDBDBDBDflDBOBUBaBLB 
B fflJSafflOBOBOBOffiQaOBBBGuOBBBOQOBBBOCa 
DBDBDBnBDBDBnBDBaH!DBaBDBDBDBDBDBD«DB 
BaBDBaBDfflDBDBDBDBaBDBDBDBPBDB.BnBDBD 
DfflOfflQEDfflQHQBDHDfflaffianuBBBaQQBBBQDLftBa 
BDBDBaBaBDBDBDBDBDBU BOB jBQBDBDB-. BCBO 
DBnBaBnBDBDBnnDBOBaBDBOBDBDBnBOBOBOB 
fflaBDBaBDBDBUBDBDBDBBBDDDBBBDODBBBCDU 
OBDBOBOBOBGBOBaBaBOBOBOflaaaBOBOBaBafl 
BaaaBaBDBDBGBaBaBaBDBOBOBnBOBDBDBnBO 

aDDBBBaDaBBBaaaBBBaBafflaBaBGBGBaBaffinB 

BOBOBaBOBaBOBaBOBaBaBQBOBOBOfflOBafflOBG 
nBOBDBOBDBDBnBnBnBDBPBOBDBaBOBCBDBgB 
BBBODOBBBOnaBBBDnDBDBOH'OfflDfflDSDffiDSDHn 
DBnBQBQBDBQBr)BQBuBOBDBaaaanBQBaBOfflOB 
■DBnBOBQBDBOBOBDBaBDBOBDBDBOBDBOBgBO 
OaDBaanoaBBBDOOBBBOBDBaBDBDBDBgBgBgB 
BOBOBaBOBOBOBDBDBnBOBnBDBDBOBDBOBgBg 
DBOBaBaBOBaBaBOBOBOBOBaBCBaBOBgaaBaB 
BBBOG BBMnaOBBBODnBOBDBDBaBDBDBgBgBg 
OBnB^BOBOBnBOBOBOBDBDBnBOBnfflDBOBgBgB 
BOBnBDBOBnBnBaBnBOBOBOBDBOBDBnBDBgBg 
DDDBBBODOBBBnDOBBBOBDBaBnBaBDBOBaBgB 
BDBnBOBOBOBOBDBDBDBOBnBnBaBOBOBnfflDBg 

Diai -'BOBDBr BnBaBaBDfflaBnBDBnBaffiOBgggB 

BBBannBBBDnnBBBDDOBOBDBDBOBnBDBDBgBD 
DBDBDBDBDBaBDBaBDBOfflDanfflDffln'BOBDBDBOB 

Fig. 5. 

cases is boiled off, then subjected to a 
light sizing, pressed, and then made 
up into rolls. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which mock lenos are 
composed are made up in mills of the 
second division as given in a previous 
article. These yarns may be either 
combed or just carded, according to 
the grade of the fabric to be made. 



For the fabric under description in 
this article we will consider the fill- 
ing yarn to be combed and the warp 
yarn to be carded. The filling yarn is 
made from an American cotton of 1 5- 
16-inch staple, while the warp yarn is 



ooQnBBaBaDBnBBnnDOBnBDfflnBOBOBnfflOBnffl 

DaaDBDBOBBDBOBODDDOBOBaBDBDffiDBaBDBO 
□DOOOBDBOOBOBODODDSOBOBOBPBaBDBDBDB 

DagOfflOBDBBOBOaODDDOffiOgnBOfflDeBOfflDfflOfflO 
DaDDaBOBOaBDBaODaOBOffiafflnBOBOBaBDBDB 
DaaOBnBDBBDBDBDDODDBDBOBOBOBOHaefOBD 
□DOQBBOBDDBOBBaOODBOBDBDBaBOBGBaBOB 

BpnnSOBOB»nBafflOBaBOESOSD»QfflDffl083D2<Qffia 

DBaSffloaoooDDaEHBOBOBDaaaaBOffiatEOfflDQOffl 

BDBDBDDODDnaDBDBDBOBOBOBOBOBOBDBnBO 

SBDBODnQDOaOOOBOBaBOfflaBDBOBOffiDBOBDB 
OBaBOOOOOOODBDBDBOBDBDBOBnaDBDfflDBD 
DBaBOQDODDaQDOBDBOSOBgBOBOBDfflafflDBDB 
BOBOBOOOaODOOBOBOBDBOfflaBDBOBDBDBDBO 
DBOBHOOOOOOOOfflBDBOfflaffiafflaSDfflOfflaSOfSDffl 
■QBDBCiaaBagaOBaBQBDBQBOBDBOBQSOBOBO 



DDODOooaa 'bbbbbbbeh 'DaaBDoaaoDBBDn 

• BBBBBBBaa 000000000 BBOOBBOOBEBOOBB 
* Skip one dent ~~ 



Fig. 6 



G times plus 8 ends. 



made out of cotton of 1*4 -inch, the 
cotton used for both purposes being of 
a good grade. Both cottons are gen- 
erally mixed by machine, being kept 
in separate bins, of course. The mix- 
ings should be as large as possible, 
each batch being calculated to last at 
least a week. 

A GOOD PLAN 

to follow is to have a batch of the 
same stock always on hand drying out 
while one is being used. This insures 
a dry and fluffy cotton being mixed. 
At the mixing bins the good sliver 
waste from all machines up to the 
slubber is mixed in. This waste should 
be spread throughout the entire mix- 
ing, and not, as is sometimes done; 
piled up in one place and fed to the 
opener all at once. The mixing is put 
through an opener and three processes 
of picking. Follow the rules that have 
been given in previous articles in con- 
nection with the opener. At the 
breaker picker the beater used is gen- 
erally of a two-bladed, so-called rigid 
type and for both stocks makes 1,500 
revolutions per minute. See that the 
beater is properly set to the feed rolls 
and that the grid and grate bars are 
properly spaced so that they will al- 
low all foreign matter to drop through. 
Look out for all 

THE DRAFTS 

to see that they are properly directed 
to the best advantage to make a good, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



605 



rilean, even lap that does not split. 
The weight of the lap at the front of 
the breaker picker is 40 pounds. At 
the intermediate picker the speed of 
the beater (two-bladed) is 1,450 revo- 
lutions per minute, and the total 
weight of the lap is 37 pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap for the 1 5-16-inch stock and 
a 10-ounce lap for the l^-inch stock. 
These laps are doubled four into one 
at the finisher picker. On this picker 
the speed of the beater is also 1,450 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front is 35 
pounds for the 1 5-16-inch stock and 
39 pounds for the l^-inch stock, or a 
13-ounce lap for the longer stock and 
a 14%-ounce lap for the shorter staple. 
The laps are put up at the card and 
the draft of the card for the warp 
yarn is not more than 95. The speed 
of the licker-in should be about 300 
revolutions per minute. The top flats 
make one complete revolution every 
50 minutes. The sliver weighs 65 
grains per yard and the production for 
a week of 60 hours is 750 pounds. For 
the filling yarn the draft of the card 
should not be less than 110. The top 
flats make one complete revolution 
every 35 minutes, the speed of the 
licker-in being 300 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of the sliver is 
55 grains per yard and the production 
550 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The 
counts of the wire fillet used for all 
parts would be similar for carding 
both staples of cotton or 110s for cyl- 
inder and 120s for doffer and top flats. 
Strip three times a day and grind at 
least once a month. Always gauge the 
setting points after grinding and set 
to high places. Use 

THE SETTINGS 
given in a previous article on "Bed- 
spreads." The sliver for the warp 
yarn is put through three processes of 
drawings, the doublings being 6 into 
1, the speed of the front roll being 350 
revolutions per minute at each proc- 
ess. A good weight for the sliver at 
the different processes is as follows: 
77 grains at front of breaker, 76 grains 
at front of middle and 70 grains at 
front of finisher. Either metallic or 
leather-covered top rolls may be used 
on this stock. Either one used will 



give good results if properly cared for. 
If leather-covered rolls are used, use 
one of the recipes given in a previous 
article and don't use rolls that are 
not in perfect condition. If the damage 
is in the covering, send it to be recov- 
ered and always examine the returned 
rolls to see that they are level and 
have the right grade of sliver cover- 
ing. Look out for all the knock-off mo- 
tions to see that they are in perfect 
working order; for lemember that 
one of the two duties of a drawing 
frame is to even the sliver, and if the 
knock-off motions do not work they 
will allow single to go through, which 
is a serious fault that is not corrected 
while passing through the slubber 
where the end is put through single. 
The drawing sliver is put through the 
slubber and drawn into .60 hank rov- 
ing. From here it passes through two 
processes of 

FLY FRAMES, 
the hank roving at the first inter- 
mediate being 2 for the 30s, and 2y z 
for the 40s yarn; at the second inter- 
mediate the hank roving is 6 for 
the 30s and 8.50 for the 40s yarn. 
These rovings are then spun on a ring 
frame into 30s and 40s yarn. For 30s 
yarn the frame, to get best results, 
should be fitted as follows: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of spindle, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 6^ 
inches; twist per inch, 26.02, and spin- 
dle speed, 9,800 revolutions per min- 
ute. For 40s yarn use a 21-inch gaug- 
ed frame, a 1%-inch diameter ring, 
6% -inch traverse, 28.46 twist per inch 
and spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions 
per minute. The yarns are spooled and 
twisted, 3 ends of 30s being twisted 
together, and then 2 ends of the 3-30s 
twisted with 1 end of the 40s yarn. 
The yarns are then warped and 
slashed. 

The card sliver for the filling yarn 
is generally put through a sliver lap, 
ribbon lap and then a comber. At the 
sliver lap the doublings are 14 into 1, 
the weight of a yard of lap being 280 
grains per yard. These are doubled at 
the ribbon lap machine 6 into 1. The 
weight of the laps at the front of this 
machine is 265 grains per yard. These 
laps are put up at the comber and 



606 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



doubled according to the number of 
heads on the comber, either six or 
eight into 1. The particulars given for 
the sliver and ribbon lap machines are 
for an 81-inch lap. 

AT THE COMBER 

a percentage of 16 per cent should be 
taken out of the lap being fed. The 
settings should be the same as given 
in a previous article and this is true 
of the trimmings. As the combers are 
not equipped with stop-motions, single 
and double should be looked for, and 
it is a general rule, if two or more 
ends break down on the table, to break 
the sliver entering the can and to re- 
move all single from can before piec- 
ing up end again. This rule should be 
rigidly enforced so as to prevent, as 
far as possible, single going to the 
drawing frame. Keep the leather de- 
taching rolls in perfect condition as to 
covering and varnish. It is a good plan 
to varnish all detaching rolls at least 
once a week. Varnish leather- covered 
rolls in draw box as often as neces- 
sary. Take percentages of at least six 
combers a day to see just what they 
are doing. The comber sliver is put 
through two processes of drawing. The 
speed of the front roll at each process 
is 350 revolutions per minute. A good 
weight for the sliver is 68 grains per 
yard at the breaker and 75 grains per 
yard at the finisher. The sliver is then 
put through the slubber and made in- 
to .50 hank roving. From here it is 
put through three processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving at each proc- 
ess being as follows: First interme- 
diate, 1; second intermediate, 3, and 
fine 12 hank. This roving may be either 
mule or ring spun. If the latter, use a 
frame with the following particulars: 
Gauge of frame, 2| inches; diameter 
of ring, 114 inches; length of traverse, 
5y 2 inches; twist per inch, 26.52, and 
speed of spindle, 8,200 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then taken and 
conditioned and is ready for weaving. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

AMBER. 

One-half per cent diamine catechine 

G.; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per 

cent sal soda; after-treat with y% per 



cent bichromate of potash; y 2 per 
cent sulphate of copper. 

SKY BLUE. 
One-half per cent diamine sky blue 
FF.; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per 
cent sal soda; after- treat with \ per 
cent sulphate of copper. 

LIGHT PEA GREEN. 
Six ounces diamine sky blue FF.; 8 
ounces diamine fast yellow FF.; 10 
pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda, 
after-treat with 1 per cent sulphate of 
copper. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent erika pink G.; 10 
per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
Four ounces benzo fast black; 1-16 
ounce chrysophenine; 5 pounds Glau- 
ber's salt; V 2 pound sal soda. 

PEARL. 
Four ounces naphthamine black N. ; 
5 pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda; 
after-treat with y 2 pound bichrome. 

NAVY. 

Four per cent naphthamine blue 2 

B. ; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 

sal soda; after-treat with 1 per cent 

bichrome; 1 per cent sulphate coppei. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Two per cent diaminogene blue 
BB. ; 2 per cent diaminogene blue NA.; 
25 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 

Diazotize: Two and one -half per 
cent nitrite soda; 5 per cent sulphuric 
acid; turn for fifteen minutes and 
rinse. 

Develop: Dissolve liy 2 pounds beta 
naphthol; 18 pounds soda lye at 77 
degrees Tw.; 20 gallons boiling water; 
for 100 pounds yarn add iy 2 gallons of 
developing solution, turn for 15 min- 
utes, rinse and give a good soaping. 

RED. 

Six per cent primuline; 20 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; diazo- 
tize and develop as the navy blue. 

LIGHT YELLOW. 
Four ounces chromine G. ; 5 pounds 
salt; 1 pound sal soda. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



607 



GREEN. 
Three per cent diamine green G.; 3 
per cent diamine fast yellow A.; after- 
treat with 3 per cent bichrome. 
BLACK. 
Fifteen per cent immedial black 
NN • 15 per cent sulphide sodium; d 
per "cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

FILLING REVERSIBLES 

Filling reversibles is a term given 
to a class of cotton fabrics used ex- 
tensively in the manufacture of dress- 
ing sacques, kimonos, bath robes, etc. 
In cotton warp and shoddy or woolen 
filling goods the same principle of con- 
struction is adopted for goods for 
horse blankets, rugs, etc. 

THE RESULT DESIRED 
is to have a cloth containing two col- 
ors each color being in solid blocks or 
effects, and to have one side the re- 
verse of the other. In low-price goods 
this is obtained by a combination of 
weave, color and finishing. 

Fig 1 illustrates a cloth of this type 
showing solid blocks of brown ana 
white running warp way. Where brown 
appears on the face, white appears op- 
posite on the back. In this particular 
sample the white bar across the cloth 
shows white on both sides. Brown 
shows opposite white at all other 
places. ,, 

Fig. 2 illustrates the weave for clotn 
Fig. 1, being on 80 ends and 96 picks. 
Sections A correspond to brown sec- 
tions on the face of the cloth, and sec- 
tions B, indicated on picks marked 
white, to the white sections. The weave 
is really complete on eight picks, the 
coloring indicating the extent of the 
pattern. 

In Fig. 2 the dots indicate the face 
weave, i. e., at these places the filling 
which is always considerably coarser 
than the warp, almost covers the lat- 
ter. On account of the large number 
of picks, as compared to warp, the rel- 
ative sizes of the yarns and the pe- 
culiarity of the weave, the filling on 
the picks indicated by the dots comes 
together, covering the picks indicated 



by the crosses. The picks marked in 
crosses come together on the under 
side of the cloth. 

In the section bracketed and indi- 
cated as containing 80 picks, the fill- 
ing is picked two brown and two 
white alternately, making 40 brown 
picks on the face and 40 white picks on 
the back in sections A and the reverse 
colors in sections B. The fabric is 
really double in the filling and single 
in the warp. 

Sections A form a left-hand twill on 
the face and a right-hand twill on the 




Fig. 1. 

back; sections B vice-versa. The 
construction of the fabric under 
consideration is 42 ends and 62 (31 
face and 31 back) picks per inch fin- 
ished. The warp Is 15s and the filling 
7%s. The latter contains very little 
twist. The warp is all white. The 
filling is two brown and two;. white for 
80 picks, 16 white; total, 96 picks per 
pattern. The width is 27 inches fin- 
ished. The harness draft requires 
eight harnesses, four for sections A 
and four for sections B, in addition to 
two for selvages. Reed 2 or 4 ends 
per dent. The chain draft is shown 
in Fig. 3. The box chain would be re- 



608 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



quired to be built for 96 picks, and a 
loom with a repeater or multiplier mo- 
tion would be the best to use. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 
The simpler types of filling reversi- 




U. 



° si ° A JS 

bles can be woven readily on any ordi- 
nary dobby loom arranged with a two 
by one box motion. As the warp is 
hidden entirely after finishing, one 



warp only is required. On account of 
the coarseness of the filling, large 
shuttles are necessary. For rugs a jac- 
quard head is usually used. 
FINISHING. 
Practically all the finishing these 
goods receive is in raising the fibre to 
form a nap. This nap entirely oblit- 
erates the weave effect. The soft- 
twisted filling is readily raised by the 
card wire of the cotton raising ma- 
chines. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills that make the yarns of 
which filling reversibles are made will 
be found in the first and second divi- 
sion of mills as given in a previous 
article. The filling yarn is slack twist- 
ed, and for the fabric to be described 
is a number 7y 2 yarn. This is made 
from various stocks; sometimes only 
straight cotton is used, but more gen- 
erally it is composed of a certain per- 

□■dddbdmb 
mamaaoummn 

[jiiiaiGiaa 

■aBMDBODQ 
DiaBDD»DB 

uaaamamamm 
ni :iii:j:ci 
mamammaama 

Fig. 3. 

centage of waste, sometimes as high 
as 60 per cent waste being used. 

THE WASTE 
used also differs, some using cards, 
some comber and some both. It is 
generally safe to say if waste is used 
that it will be card waste, for the 
mills making this class of goods 
are not generally equipped with 
combers. The stock with which 
the waste is mixed is of from % to 1 
inch staple, according to the quality 
of the fabric required. A fine average 
staple to take is one of 1-inch length. 
The mixing would be done by hand, 
and it is almost needless to state that 
large mixings should always be made 
for various reasons that have been 
given previously. The stock of which 
the warp yarn is made is 1 to 1 inch 
in length, generally the former length 
being used. While the stock for this 
yarn is sometimes mixed with waste, 
the percentage of waste does 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



609 



not run as high as that used for 
the filling stock. The stock is put 
through three processes of picking, 
before which it passes through 
an opener. Keep the hopper of this 
opener well filled with cotton so that 
the fitting or spiked apron will always 
have a full load. The beaters general- 
ly used for the pickers for this class 
of goods are of the two-bladed, rigid 
type and the speed of that in the 
breaker picker should be about 1,550 
revolutions per minute. The weight of 
the lap at the front should be 40 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps 
are doubled four into one at the in- 
termediate picker. The speed of this 
beater for both warp and filling yarns 
is 1,500 revolutions per minute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the front of this picker is 38 pounds 
or a 14-ounce lap. These laps are 
doubled at the back of the finisher 
picker four into one. The speed of 
this beater is 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, which gives the cotton pass- 
ing through about 43 beats per inch. 
The total weight of the lap at the front 
of this machine is 39 pounds or a 14^- 
ounce lap. A variation of one-half 
pound either side of standard weight 
for lap is allowed. Those having more 
of a variation than this are put at 
the back of the finisher picker and 
run over again, although care should 
be taken not to run two of these laps 
at the same time, for this would be 
more than apt to throw the weight of 
the lap being made out. Look out for 
the direction of the air currents and 
see that an 

EVEN AND UNIFORM LAP 

is being made at the front. Do not 
fool with the lap weight adjustments 
too much, for too much is worse than 
not enough, for the former will keep 
the weight of the lap jumping all 
around, whereas the latter is more apt 
to get the same weight of laps. These 
laps are put up at the card where the 
draft should not be more than 90. The 
settings of the card used should be 
the same as those given in connection 
with the article on indigo prints, ex- 
cept that of the feed plate to the lick- 
er-in, which should be set just a trifle 



farther, longer than the length of the 
staple. The flats and doffer should be 
covered with No. 34s wire and the cyl- 
inder No. 32s wire fillet. The speed of 
the licker should be 350 revolutions 
per minute, while the flats should 
make one complete revolution every 
55 minutes. The cards should be 
stripped at least 

THREE TIMES A DAY 

and an extra stripping would greatly 
improve the yarn, but is not gener- 
ally done. The weight of the sliver is 
65 grains per yard and the production 
is 975 to 1,050 pounds per week of 60 
hours. This sliver is next put through 
two processes of drawing where the 
doublings are 6 into 1. The speed of 
the front roll is 400 revolutions per 
minute for each stock, the draft of 
the breaker frame is 5.25, the weight 
of the sliver being 72 grains. The 
draft at the finisher is 5.60, the weight 
of the drawing being 72 grains per 
yard. For this class of work either 
leather-covered or metallic top rolls 
may be used. But the metallic top 
rolls are considered by many to have a 
great many advantages, one of the 
principal ones being that more pro- 
duction is turned out with the same 
speed of roll. No matter which top 
roll is used, they should be watched 
carefully to see that they are in per- 
fect condition 

FOR MAKING GOOD WORK. 
It is also a good policy to watch the 
stop-motions, for it is these, if they 
are not in proper working order, that 
cause single to be made. The sliver 
for the filling yarn is made into .40 
hank slubber roving, while that for 
the warp yarn is made into .50 
hank roving. The filling yarn is put 
through one more process of fly frames 
and made into 1 hank roving, which 
is taken to the mule room and spun 
into 7 1 / £s, having a 2.80 twist per inch. 
The slubber yarn for the warp yarn 
is put through two processes of fly 
frames, at the first being made into 
1 hank and at the second into 3% 
hank. This yarn is then taken to the 
ring spinning room and spun into 15s 
on a frame having a 3-inch gauge: 
2%-inch diameter ring; 7 -inch trav- 



610 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



erse, 18 turns per twist and a spindle 
speed of 9,200 revolutions per minute. 
This yarn is then spooled, warped 
and then put through a slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

HAVANNA BROWN. 

Three per cent immedial brown RR.; 
3 per cent immedial cutcn O.; 6 
per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Eight per cent pyrol navy blue; 8 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cenl 
soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 
Ten per cent pyrol green B.; 10 pei 
cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 25 per cent salt. 

PEARL. 
One-half per cent immedial blacl- 
NRT.; 5 per cent salt; 1 per cent so- 
dium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 
10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 

One per cent tetrazo brilliant blue 
6 B.; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

RED. 

Five per cent primuline Y. ; 2 pe 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 

Diazotize: 2% per cent nitrite soda; 
5 per cent spirits salt. 

Develop: 2 per cent beta naphthol 
2 per cent soda ash. 

SLATE. 
One per cent immedial black N B.; 
M per cent immedial direct blue B. 
20 per cent salt; 2 per cent soda ash; 
2 per cent sulphide soda. 

ECRU. 
One-half per cent immedial yellow 
D.; y 2 per cent immedial cutch G.; 
1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 

BROWN. 
Eight per cent katigen brown V.; T 
per cent katigen yellow G G.; 10 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 



HELIOTROPE. 
Eight, per cent thiogene violet B.; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten per cent immedial black N N.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
PINK. 
One per cent Erika pink; 3 per cent 
sal soda: 20 per cent salt. 
♦ » » 



DHOOTIES 

Dhootie cloths are a class of fab- 
rics used very extensively in Zanzibar, 
Africa, Egypt and India, for scarfs, 
turbans, and girdle or body cloths. 

They vary in width from 18 inches 
to 50 inches, and in length from two 
to six yards. The cut lengths vary 
from 12 to 40 yards. 

They are distinguished by gaudy, 
highly colored borders, running length- 
wise, and headings running across 
the piece between which both warp 
and filling yarns are of gray white 
or other light color. Both sides of 
the cloth are similar, the fabric be 
ing reversible. The borders length- 
wise range from about one-half inch 
to four inches in width. 

THE REAL DHOOTIE 
is a native eastern hand-woven fabric, 
in which the colored filling interlaces 
only with the border warp yarns. To 
weave such a fabric the services of 
three persons are required, one to 
take care of the center and one for 
each of the borders. 

It is practically the only article of 
apparel used by many of the poorer 
classes in the eastern countries. 

Referring to these goods an Indian 
textile journal states that the follow- 
ing are standard sizes: 22 inches to 
23 inches wide, 2 yards long; 24 inches 
to 25 inches wide, 2% yards long; 26 
inches to 28 inches wide, 3 yards long; 
29 inches to 32 inches wide, 3% yards 
long; 29 inches and upwards wide, 4 
to 5 yards long. 

THE YARNS 
employed vary from 30s to 40s in the 
warp, and from 36s to 60s in the filling. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



611 



A great many of the goods are made 
with 34s warp and 40s filling in the 
center of the goods, the borders being 
about 2-50s and 2-60s. 

Although not usually the case, they 
are sometimes made with several col- 
ored stripes in the width of the piece, 
in addition to those forming the bor 
ders. 

The cross borders, or- headings, are 
sometimes very elaborate," varying in 
length up to about 20 inches. In the 
longer types these headings are in- 
serted every few inches, whereas in 
the shorter types they are woven only 
at the beginning and end of each 
scarf. The 

BORDERS AND HEADINGS 

are intended to be made so that the 
colors of which they are composed 
will appear as prominent or solid as 
possible. To accomplish this on the 



on one of the positive motion princi 
pies, as on narrow ware looms. Thes< 
two shuttles 

WORK ON OPPOSITE SIDES 

of the loom and interweave only with 
the warp yarns constituting the bor- 
ders. The small shuttles cross the 
ends at the same time as the fiy shut 
tie, so that the amount of productioi 
is not affected either way by them. 

Three filling forks are used, one for 
each shuttle, so that if any of the fill- 
ings break, the loom is stopped in- 
stantly. 

The border shuttles run in a differ- 
ent plane, and move in the opposite 
direction to the fly shuttles, so that 
only one pick of filling passes in front 
of the filling forks on the pick required 
to actuate the stop-motion. Catch 
threads are used to connect the bor 

ders and centers. 




side borders the method usually adopt- 
ed is to arrange the colors in the war 
yarns, and crowd them in the reed 
so that they will cover the filling ar 
nearly as possible. In this class of 
dhooties the filling is of the same colo 
as the warp of the center of the goods. 
This filling necessarily shows to J 
greater or less degree in the borders 
and is regarded as an objectionable 
feature. 

When weaving the better grades of 
goods, those nearly approaching ir 
appearance the native handmade 
goods, another method is adopted V 
make the prevailing color in the bor 
ders, usually red, as bright as possi- 
ble. They are made on a loom con- 
taining three shuttles, one of which is 
a fly shuttle and carries the filling fo 
the centers of the cloth; the other 
two are small shuttles, made to worl 



When the goods are required to b 
made with colored headings, the bo: 
motion of the loom is actuated to in- 
sert different colors of filling as may 
be necessary, the loom weaving th 
cross borders, or headings, and center 
automatically. If a fringe is desire" 
it is made in the usual manner. 

The figure illustrates one border 
and part of the white center of cheap 
dhootie cloth, in which the white fill 
ing interlaces with both center and 
border. 

The border is 2 5-16 inches wide and 
contains five colors, red, green, yel 
low, white and orange. The outer 
stripe of red is 1 3-16 inches wide 
The count of the center cloth is 52x 
46, and is reeded two ends per dent. 
The fancy weave portion is arranged 
one end of green and one end of red, 
alternately, and is reeded five ends per 



612 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



dent. The remainder of the border is 
reeded four ends per dent. With the 
exception of the 32 ends working as 
extra warp the weave of the fabric 
is plain. Eight white ends workin. 
as four divide the border from th 
center. The border ends are ply 
yarns. The center ends and the fill- 
ing are single. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

For plain dhooties, in which the 
borders as well as the centers weave 
plain, an ordinary single box loom is 
used, unless cross borders are re 
quired, when a box motion becomes 
necessary. In England, where these 
goods are extensively manufactured, 
side cam, revolving box looms are 
usually used. 

For the better grades, where the 
borders are interlaced with colored 
and the centers usually with white or 
gray filling, a loom of a special type 
previously referred to as having posi 
tively acting and fly shuttles is used. 
This contains a dobby or other head 
motion. 

Whether for low or high grader 
plain or fancy, the border warp yarns 
are usually run from small rollers 01 
spools, on account of being reeded 
differently, and are often of different 
counts from the center yarns. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which dhooties ar 
made would be manufactured ir 
mills having the equipment of ma- 
chinery found in the second division 
of mills as given in a previous article. 
The dhootie which is taken for an 
example will be supposed to be com 
posed of 34s warp and 40s filling for 
the center and 2-60s for the borders. 
These yarns are made from the fol- 
lowing cottons: The 2-60s is made 
from 1%-inch American cotton and is 
combed. The 40s and 34s are made 
from a 1 3-16-inch staple American 
cotton and may be 

EITHER COMBED OR CARDED. 
For this article we will consider that 
they are carded, but as it is desirable 
that the yarn shall be as free as pos 
sible from neps, the speeds and set- 



tings of the card will be different frorx 
those generally used for this count of 
carded yarn. All three cottons maj 
be either mixed by hand or by ma- 
chine; the advantages of machine 
mixing (by means of a bale breaker) 
have been already previously given. 
Each mixing should of course be i: 
separate bins and as large as possible 
so as to cause as little variation as 
possible in the finished yarn. It is al- 
so an important point to see that the 
different bales are intermixed. The 
cottons are put through an opener 
and three processes of 

PICKING MACHINERY. 
The good waste is mixed In with th 
raw stock as it is collected, but care 
should be used to scatter the waste, 
so that it will be evenly divided all 
over the mixing. The hopper of th' 
opener should be kept full of raw stock 
all the time for reasons given in pre- 
vious articles. The cotton should leave 
the opener and be delivered on the 
lattice apron of the breaker in a fluffy 
state, and if the hopper has been kept 
full all the time it will also be fairly 
even, i. e., if each yard of cotton pass- 
ed to the feed roll is weighed, a, 
great deal of variation will not be 
found. The beaters of the pickers 
used for this class of goods are gen- 
erally of the rigid, two-bladed type, 
although a great many are using the 
pin beater. When the latter is used, it 
does not require as high a fan speed 
as the rigid form of beater. This is 
due to its wide arms, and as it has 
three of these, it makes 

CONSIDERABLY MORE DRAFT 
than the two-bladed type of beater. 

The speed of the beater for 1 3-16- 
inch stock for this class of goods is 1,- 
550 revolutions per minute, and for 
the 11-inch stock is 1,450 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of lap 
at the breaker is 40 pounds for all 
staples or a 16-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the intermediate picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of 
the beater of this machine is 1,475 
revolutions per minute for 1 3-16-inch 
stock and 1,425 for ljf-inch stock. The 
total weight of the lap is 87% pounds 
or a 12 -ounce lap for lg-inch stock, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



613 



lind a 10-ounce lap for 1 3-16-inch 
stock. These laps are put up at the 
finisher picker and doubled as before, 
4 into 1. The speed of this beater is 
1,475 revolutions per minute for 1 3-16- 
inch staple, and 1,400 revolutions per 
minute for l|-inch staple. The to- 
tal weight of the lap is 39 pounds for 
1 3-16-inch staple stock and 35 pounds 
for 1 1 -inch staple. A variation of half 
a pound either side of standard weight 
is allowed. All finished laps that vary 
from their standard weight more thac 
this are put back and run through 
the finisher picker again. At this ma- 
chine the cut-roving waste is also mix- 
ed in. Sometimes this is done by tak- 
ing out two laps at the back, the two 
middle ones, and the cut waste spread 
evenly over the space thus made. It 
is 

A BETTER METHOD 

to use a roving waste picker, as then 
all the twist is taken out of the rov- 
ing. After passing through this rov- 
ing picker the cotton is made into a 
lap at the breaker or intermediate 
machine, and is then put through the 
finisher picker, when it is used as fol- 
lows: three laps of raw stock to one 
lap cut-roving waste. The weight per 
yard at the front of the finisher pick- 
er is as follows: for 1%-inch stock 
12y 2 ounces; for 1 3-16-inch stock, 14 
ounces per yard. The cotton next 
passes to the card. The cards for all 
lengths of staples will be set alike 
for reasons previously given. Set 
doffer to cylinder with 5-l,1000ths-inch 
gauge. Set under screen as follows: at 
licker-in with 12-l,000ths-inch gauge 
middle to 34-l,000ths and front *4 of 
an inch. Licker-in to cylinder with 7- 
l.OOOths of an inch. Licker-in screen 
to licker-in, 3-16ths of an inch. Set 
bottom licker-in knife with 5-l,000ths 
gauge, top knife to 10-l,000ths of an 
inch gauge. Set feed plate to licker-in 
to 7-l,000ths of an inch gauge, and top 
flats to 12-l,000ths of an inch gauge. 
The speed of the licker-in should be 
300 revolutions per minute. The flats 
make one complete revolution every 40 
minutes for all stock. The production 
should be 500 pounds for 2 -60s yarn 
and 600 pounds for the other yarns. 
Cards should be stripped three times 



a day and ground at least once a 
month and then the grinders should be 
allowed to stay on at least half a 
day. The cards should be reset after 
grinding. Special care should be tak 
en to see that the top flats are sharp 
and are ground evenly and do not 
have more taken off the toe than 
the heel, as is generally the case un- 
less great care is taken. The weight 
of the sliver is 50 grains per yard for 
each staple. After passing the card 

THE PROCESSES 

of the stocks differ. "We will first fol- 
low the course of the carded staples. 
These are put through three processes 
of drawing, the front roll speed at 
each process being 350 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of the sliver at 
the front is 70 grains per yard. Great 
care should be taken to see that the 
stop-motions are in perfect working 
order, otherwise a great "deal of 
trouble will result in single and 
double. At the slubber the sliver is 
made into .60 hank roving. This rov- 
ing is then put through two processes 
of fly frames. At the first intermedi- 
ate it is made into 2 hank roving and 
at the second into 7 hank for the 34s 
warp and 8 hank for 40s filling. 

The card sliver for the 2-60s yarn is 
combed and the general sequence of 
processes is as follows: Sliver lap ma- 
chine, where it is doubled 14 into 1 
and has a draft of about 2; a yard of 
lap at the front weighing 300 grains 
per yard for an 8|-inch lap. Six of 
these laps are put up at the ribbon 
lap machine and made into a 260 
grain lap at the front. Keep top leath- 
er rolls in good condition and well 
varnished. Six laps from the ribbon 
lap machine are put up at the comber, 
if it is a six-head machine, or eight 
laps if it is an eight-head machine, and 
the weight of the finished sliver is 45 
grains per yard. The 

SPEED OP THIS COMBER 
is 90 nips per minute, the per cent of 
waste taken out being 16. Keep the 
detaching rolls well varnished, recipes 
for which have been given in previous 
articles as well as a means for keep- 
ing the laps of the leather from split- 
ting. After passing the comber the 



614 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



sliver is put through two processes of 
leather-covered top roll drawing 
frames, the doublings being 8 into 1 
at the breaker and 6 into 1 at the fin- 
isher. The weight of the sliver at the 
finisher drawing is 70 grains per yard. 
This is made into .50 hank roving at 
the slubber and is then put through 
three processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each being as follows: First, 
1 hank; second, 3% hank, and fine 
frame, 12 hank. This is then taken to 
the ring spinning room and spun Into 
60s on a frame with a 11-inch diameter 
ring, 5-inch traverse, and a spindle 
speed of 8,000 revolutions per min- 
ute; after which it is doubled into 2- 
60s. The roving for the 40s filling is 
spun on a ring frame having a l|-inch 
diameter ring, 5%-inch traverse and 
a spindle speed of 8,800 revolutions 
per minute, and then spooled and 
warped and put through a slasher. The 
roving for warp is spun into 34s on a 
warp spinning frame with a lf-inch 
diameter ring, 6^ -inch traverse, and 
a spindle speed of 10,200 revolutions 
per minute, after which it is taken to 
the conditioning room. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

BLUE. 

Three per cent immedial indone B.; 
2 per cent immedial indone 3 8.; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

GREEN. 
Five per cent immedial yellow D.; 5 
per cent immedial indone B.; 10 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

RED. 
Six per cent primuline; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda, rinse; 
diazotize: 2y 2 per cent nitrite soda; 
rinse; develop: 2 per cent beta naph- 
thol, rinse and soap at 150 degrees F. 

YELLOW. 
Mordant with tannine and tartar 
emetic, rinse; dye with 3% per cent 
thioflavine T. and rinse. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
Dye yellow with thioflavine T.; and 



dye on top with 2 per cent brilliant 
green Y. ; rinse and give a weak soap- 
ing. 

ORANGE. 
Dye with 6 per cent primuline ; after- 
treat with y^ degree Tw. solution of 
chloride of lime. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
Four per cent thion orange N.; 4 
per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 
after-treat with 2 per cent sulphate of 
copper. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 

Eight per cent thion green G.; 2 per 

cent thion yellow G. ; 2 per cent thion 

green B.; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 3 

per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 

WINE. 

Eight per cent thiogene red O.; 8 
per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 
BLUE BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial brilliant 
black B.; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 3 
per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 



UNEQUALLY REEDED STRIPES 

Under the above heading may be in- 
cluded an extensive type of cotton fab- 
rics, variously known as satin or sat- 
een stripes, doria stripes, etc. 

They are made in all grades, from 
medium to fine, and used for many 
purposes, such as dress fabrics, cur- 
tain hangings, etc., and are usually 
shown in all white or solid colors. 

They are characterized by promi- 
nent stripe effects which appear to 
stand up from the ground of the cloth. 

The raised stripes are produced by 
crowding more ends in a given space 
than are contained in an equal space 
occupied by the ground ends and by 
weaving them differently. As a rule 
the yarns forming the raised stripes 
are woven in satin or twill order, 
warp flush weaves, while those form- 
ing the ground weave plain. 

Theoretically, warp ends weaving 
plain should take up or contract in 
length faster than ends weaving twill 
or satin, on account of the greater num- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



615 



ber of interfacings. This applies to 
cloths in which each dent contains 
the same number of ends throughout 
the entire width of cloth. 

It has been found in practice that 
when weaving a fabric containing sec- 
tions reeded, say, two ends per dent, 
and others four or five ends per dent, 
the yarns that are crowded in the reed 
will contract more than those reeded 
two ends per dent. For example, a 

A B A C A B 

Bbdbgbgb ammaam am bgbb am ■■■■■■ 
DBGBGBG BBBBGB BG HID BG BBBBDB 
nagaoaaa bbgbbb gb gbbb gb ■■<■■■ 

BDBDBOBG BBBBBG BG BBGK BD BBBBflG 
DBDBQBDB BGBBBB GB BDBB GB BDBBBB 

BJBGBGBG BBBGBB BG BBBO BD BBBGBB 
iOBDBGB GBBBBB GB GBBB GB GBBBBB 
BGBDBOBG BBBBGB BG BBGB BG BBBBGB 
■BGBQBDB ■» ■■■ GB BGBB GB BBUBBB 
BDBGBGBG BBBBBG BG BBBD BO BBBBBG 
OBGBDBGB BMBHHB GB GBBB GB BDBBBB 
BGBDBDBG BBBGBB BG BBGB BG BBBGBB 

6 times 2 times 5 times 2 time3 
Fig 1. 

warp stripe interlaced five ends sat- 
in order and reeded five ends per 
dent would contract in length about 
as fast as the yarns weaving plain in 
the same fabric, if the latter were of 
the same counts of yarn and reeded 
two ends per dent. This fact explains 
the reason why satin stripe fabrics are 
usually woven from one beam. 

A characteristic weave is shown in 
Fig. 1. 

The warp layout of one repeat of 
the pattern is as follows: 



Ends. 


Dents. 


Harnesses. 


48 


24 


1 to 6 


12 


2 


7 to 12 


2 


1 


1 and 2\ 

13 to 16J6 times. 


4 


1 


2 


1 


1 and 2 


12 


2 


7 to 12 




Selvages on 


harnesses 1 and 2. 



The chain draft is shown in Fig. 2. 

In Fig. 1 sections A weave plain, 
sections B weave 6 end warp satin, and 
sections C weave broken crow, warp 
face. 

When combining weaves in this 
manner one of the principal points to 
consider is to bring the warp float 
of one section opposite the filling float 
of the adjoinng section, or, as it Is 
termed, they should be made to "cut" 
each other as well as possible. When 
this is done, the stripes have a more 
distinct and cleaner cut appearance 
than when it is ignored. 



The construction data of the sample 
under construction are: warp, 45s; 
filling, 40s Egyptian; finished width, 
28 inches; width in reed, 29.9 inches; 
ends in warp, 2,856; sley reed, 76. 
This represents the proportional num- 
ber of ends per inch in the plain 
section. Average sley, 102. This in- 
dicates the average number of ends 
per inch in the entire width of cloth. 
Picks per inch, 80. 

These goods may be woven on a 
single box dobby loom, the warp yarns 
being of one count, and one filling 
only being required. 

The fabrics are found in many va- 
riations of patterns and qualities, and 
are subjected to suitable methods of 
finishing, according to the use to 
which they are intended to be put. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills that make unequally reed- 
ed stripes are found in the second 
division, and while the count of yarn 
varies to a great extent for this class 
of goods, a good average count would 
be 45s warp yarn and 40s filling. It is 
not our intention to say much about 
the cotton warp yarn otherwise than 
a few general remarks, i. e., that the 
yarn is of 1% to 1 3-16-inch American 
stock and carded, the hank rovings 
being as follows: for slubber .55 hank. 
Top. 



OBDBDBOBBBBI-- - - 

B IBGBOBBBBOBBBGB 



Fig 2. 

first intermediate, 2.50, and for the 
fine fly frame, 10 hank, and is ring 
spun into 45s yarn. Further particu- 
lars for making this count of yarn 
may be found in previous articles deal- 
ing with the same length of stock and 
making counts of yarn from 35s to 50s. 
In this article it is our intention to 
deal with 

THE FILLING YARN 
which is made from Egyptian cotton 
of li-inch staple. On account of its 
peculiar nature Egyptian cotton is es- 



616 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



pecially adapted for filling yarns and 
it is a general custom to make the 
filling yarns of this kind of cotton, al- 
though it is not done in all styles of 
fabrics, and while the filling yarns of 
fabrics previously described might 
equally as well have been made out 
of Egyptian cotton, still for some spe- 
cial reason the kind of cotton given for 
filling yarns has been selected. The 
Egyptian bale is about 300 pounds 
heavier than the American bale, so 
that so large a number will not be re- 
quired in the mixing, which may be 
done by hand or by the use of a bale 
breaker. It will also be found that 
Egyptian cotton is much more easily 
handled than other kinds of cotton. 
By this we mean that it gives less 
trouble to operate it at the different 
processes. The mixing should be made 
in the same manner as described 
in previous articles. The cotton for 
this stock is put through three proc- 
esses of picking and an opener. The 
beater used at each process is gener- 
ally the two-bladed, rigid type. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 
at the breaker picker is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute; at the intermediate 
picker 1,375 revolutions per minute, 
and at the finisher picker 1,200 revo- 
lutions per minute. The total weight 
of a lap at the breaker picker is 40 
pounds or a 20-ounce lap; at interme- 
diate picker, 38 pounds or a 12-ounce 
lap, and at the finisher picker, 35 
pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. The in- 
structions given in previous articles 
for picking should be followed. At 
the card the draft for this stock should 
not be less than 120. The flats should 
make one complete revolution every 
30 minutes, and the speed of the lick- 
er-in should be about 300 revolutions 
per minute. The weight of the sliver 
at the front should be 45 grains and 
the production for a week of 60 hours 
should be not more than 500 pounds. 
The setting points should be set to 
the same gauges as given in last ar- 
ticle, while the particulars given for 
grinding, cleaning, stripping .and oil- 
ing that have already been given for 
the same length of staple of American 
stock may be used. Egyptian cotton is 
easily combed and, as one overseer 



puts it, might be combed with a rake; 
still considerable care should be giv- 
en to it to see that it is properly done. 
The particulars for sliver lap machine, 
ribbon lap machine and six-head comb- 
er for an 81-inch lap are as follows: 
Sliver lap machine doubles 14 into 1 
and weight per yard of lap is 295 
grains; at the ribbon lap machine the 
doubling is 6 into 1, the weight per 
yard being 260 grains; at the comber 
the doubling is 6 into 1, the weight 
of the sliver is 47 grains. The per- 
centage of waste taken out at the 
comber for this stock for fabric nam- 
ed is 16. Use settings and turnings 
given in a previous article. 

THE COMBER SLIVER 
is next put through two processes of 
drawing, the weight per yard at the 
front being 70 grains per yard with 
doublings of 6 into 1 at each process. 
Use either metallic or leather-top cov- 
ered rolls, this stock running equally 
well on each. At the slubber the sliv- 
er is made into .50 hank roving and 
from here it passes through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing at each being as follows: First 
intermediate, 1 hank; second interme- 
diate, 3 hank, and fine frame, 10 hank. 
The twist gear used at each process 
should be one tooth smaller than that 
used for the same hank of roving 
made from American cotton. Watch 
the rolls, both top and bottom, to see 
that they are properly set. After leav- 
ing the fine frame the roving may be 
either mule or ring spun, sometimes 
one and sometimes the other being 
preferred for certain reasons. For this 
fabric the roving is generally ring 
spun. For spinning 40s filling yarn of 
1 5-16-inch staple Egyptian cotton use 
a frame with a 2|-inch gauge, 1%-inch 
diameter ring, and a 5% -inch trav- 
erse, and spindle speed of 8,800 rev- 
olutions per minute. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

PEARL. 

Four ounces immedial black NRT.; 

y 2 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per 

cent soda ash; 10 per cent Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

One per cent diamine black BH. ; 4 

ounces diamine fast yellow B.; 1 per 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



617 



cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

FAWN. 

One per cent diamine fast yellow B. ; 
4 ounces diamineral brown G.; Vz 
ounce diamine brown B.; 1 pound sal 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 
Five per cent diamine scarlet B.; 2 
per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

RED. 
Four per cent diamine fast red F.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
Four per cent benzo green GG.; y 2 
per cent chrysophenine; x / 2 per cent 
benzo fast black; 3 per cent sal soda; 
30 per cent Glauber's. 



HELIOTROPE. 



Two per cent tetrazo lilac B.; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
Two and one-half per cent diamine 
brown 3 G. ; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 
per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BROWN. 

Three per cent diamineral brown 
G.; V 2 per cent diamine brown M.; 1 
per cent diamine catechine B.; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Six per cent diamine dark blue B.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

WINE. 
Five per cent diamine Bordeaux B.; 
y 2 per cent diamine fast red F. ; 3 per 
cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's 

PINK. 

One-half per cent Erika pink G.; 1 
per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue FF.; 
y 2 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial black NN.; 2 
per cent soda ash; 10 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's. 



STOP PEG CHECKS 

The above term is used in cotton 
mills to indicate a type of fabric ex- 
tensively made for dress goods and 
decorative purposes. In the dry goods 
trade the goods are found under va- 
rious names. 

They are an extension of the type of 
goods, unequally reeded stripes, ex- 
plained in the last article, and are 
characterized by certain yarns in both 
warp and filling, appearing to stand up 
from the ground cloth in regular or 
irregular block effects. They are usu- 
ally woven white and bleached or dyed 
as may be required. 

This article is really supplementary 
to the last one, the points referred to 
there applying equally as well here. 

A check is almost always formed by 
a crossover effect in the filling in con- 
nection with a distinguishing stripe in 
the warp. If the effect warp way is 
not as prominent or more prominent 
than the effect filling way, a barry pat- 
tern is produced, objectionable in al- 
most all classes of textile fabrics. 

In stop peg checks the effect warp 
way is formed by crowding some of 
the ends and weaving them in a differ- 
ent manner from the others, as in un- 
equally reeded stripes. The effect fill- 
ing way is formed by interlacing the 
yarns in a certain manner, say plain 
for a certain number of picks, ther 
changing the order of interlacing to 
another weave, say a filling sateen, 
for a definite number of picks. 

When weaving the plain section, the 
take-up motion of the loom works in 
the ordinary manner, whereas when 
weaving the filling satin section it is 
disconnected, as required, so that more 
picks will be inserted in a given 
space. 

The device used for disconnecting 
the take-up motion is usually connect- 
ed to one of the levers of the dobby 
and called into action by pegs placed 
in the pattern chain; hence the term 
stop peg checks. 

A friction let-off is preferrable to a 
positive lef-off motion for this clas 
of goods. Fig. 1 illustrates an exam- 
ple of the simpler type, consisting o' 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



sections of plain, warp sateen and fill 
ing sateen. The analysis of the sam- 
ple under consideration shows the fol- 
lowing data: Warp, 60s; filling, 90s: 
cloth width, 27.5 inches. In the plain 
sections there are, in proportion, 72 




Fig. 1. 

ends and 72 picks per inch. The av- 
erage number of ends and picks per 
inch is 114 each. 

The warp layout for one pattern is 
as follows: 

Dents. 

12 = 2 ends per dent 

5=6 ends per dent 

12 = 2 ends per dent 

6=6 ends per dent 

108 34 

One warp only has been used. 
The harness draft is shown at Fig. 



17 



18 



11 



12 



13 



5 times. 4 times. 

Fig. 2. 



5 times. 



The chain draft, exclusive of sel- 
vage, is shown in Fig. 3. In this fig- 
ure marks \ correspond to the plain 
sections in the cloth; dots correspond 
to the warp satin sections in the 
cloth; circles correspond to the filling 




I V J * f 6 7 A « 



l< 1 



Fig. 3. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



619 



satin sections in the cloth; crosses 
correspond to the filling satin sections 
in the cloth where the same cross over 
the ends crowded in the reed, this Is 
a filling satin with two picks in a 
shed; marks / correspond to the 
warp satin sections in the cloth where 
the same cross over the picks form- 
ing filling satin with the otherwise 
plain ends; solid marks indicate stop 
pegs. 

The warp satin sections are woven 
two picks in a shed when the othe 
sections of ends are weaving filling 
satin. On these picks the take-up mo 
tion is out of connection on 20 out of 
30 picks, the entire 30 picks occupying 
only as much space as 10 picks in the 
plain sections. 

The positions of the stop pegs can- 
not always be determined before the 
cloth is being woven. When a change 
is made from plain to filling satin it is 
not necessary to insert stop pegs for 
a few picks because the picks go in 
easier in the filling satin sections. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

An ordinary single box dobby loom 
fixed with device referred to may be 
used when weaving these goods. One 
warp only is required. 

Unequally reeded stripes and stop 
peg checks may be placed in the nov- 
elty class, being in demand one sea- 
son and out of demand the next; also 
on account of varying considerably in 
pattern and quality. As such they are 
usually woven on looms fitted up for 
weaving from two or more warp 
beams. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for stop peg checks are 
made in mills of the second and third 
divisions as given in a previous 
article. The counts of yarn used 
for this fabric differ according to the 
quality of the fabric desired, and fo» 
the carding and spinning particular? 
we will consider the sample to br 
made up of 60s warp and 90s fillinr 
yarns. Both of these counts of yarn 
will be combed, the warp yarn being 
made from l|-inch Allen or peeler 
cotton and the filling yarn from either 



Egyptian of 1^-inch staple, or, as if 
more general, from Sea Island cot- 
ton of 1^-inch staple. The processes 
used for the Sea Island cotton will 
first be described, and as the processes 
for 11-inch American cotton have al- 
ready been described, only those points 
that differ from those already explain- 
ed will be given. In mixing Sea Island 
cotton a great deal of care should be 
taken to see that all bales put intc 
the mixture staple the same. At the 
mixing bins the good sliver and picker 
waste from the machines up to the 
slubber will be mixed in. As 

SEA ISLAND COTTON 

has to be handled as little as possible 
on account of the ease with which 
neps are put in, generally only one 
process of picking and an opener is 
used, although some mills use twc 
processes. If only one process is used 
the speed of the beater should be just 
high enough to beat out the dirt, anc 1 
this varies according to the grade and 
quality of the raw stock. For a fair 
average a two-bladed, rigid type of 
beater should make about 1,200 revolu- 
tions per minute, which will give the 
cotton passing through about 29 beats 
or blows per inch. The lattice apron 
of this machine is measured off and 
marked into yard spaces, and the cot- 
ton as it comes from the apron is 
weighed and spread evenly over this 
space. The lap at the front end weighs 
30 pounds or a 10-ounce lap per yard. 
A variation of only six ounces either 
side of standard weight is allowed for 
this cotton. At the card the same 
care is taken to prevent neps, and 
the speed of certain parts is changed to 
help this result. The speed of the 
licker-in is reduced about 50 revolu- 
tions per minute from that when 
American cotton is used. The 

SPEED OF THE FLATS 
is increased to make one complete 
revolution every 35 minutes; the flats 
are also set to a No. 10 gauge instead 
of a No. 12, as compared with Amer- 
ican cotton. The cylinder and doffer 
are only stripped twice a day, but 
the card wire is always kept sharp 
and in perfect condition. The weight 
of the sliver at the front is 45 grains 



620 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



per yard, and the production for a 
week of 60 hours should not be over 
400 pounds per week. The sliver is 
next taken to the sliver lap machine 
or in some cases a drawing frame is 
used first and a sliver lap machine 
afterward. If the former method if 
used, the weight of the lap should be 
about 230 grains per yard, the 
doublings being 14 into 1 for an 81- 
inch lap. These laps are doubled at the 
ribbon lap machine 6 into 1, the weight 
of the lap at the front being 22C 
grains per yard. If a drawing frame 
is used after the card, the ribbon lap 
machine is not used, and the weight of 
lap at the sliver lap machine should 
be 220 grains per yard. The laps at 
both the ribbon and sliver lap ma- 
chines should be sized once a day. The 
laps are next put up at the comber 
and doubled according to the num- 
ber of heads it contains, either six 
or eight. The per cent of waste taken 
out at this machine for this stock va- 
ries according to the overseers' ideas, 
but a good average per cent is 22. 

THE WASTE PERCENTAGE 

should be taken from six different 
combers every day. Keep the rolls 
well varnished and other parts well 
polished and as free from dirt as pos- 
sible. Watch the piecing and also for 
single. Keep your setting points to 
gauge and time. The sliver at this 
machine weighs 35 grains. This sliver 
is put through two processes of 
drawing frames, the revolutions per 
minute of front roll being 320, the 
doublings 6 into 1 at both processes, 
and the weight of sliver at the finish- 
er being 60 grains per yard. Follow 
instructions given for drawing frames 
in previous articles. The sliver at the 
drawing frame should be sized 4 times 
a day, and a variation of only one 
grain per yard allowed. The drawing 
sliver is next put up to the slubber and 
made into .80 hank roving, after 
which it is put through three process- 
es of fly frames, the hank roving at 
each being as follows: First interme- 
diate, 2.25 hank; second, 5 hank, and 
fine, 18 hank. At the fine frames the 
roving is sized once a day. The usual 
Care that has been (previously ex- 



plained should be given to all parts 
of the fly frames, and in addition die 
top leather rolls of the slubber should 
be varnished.- It is best, but not al- 
ways convenient, to have the slubber 
rolls used of a little larger diameter 
than when other cottons are used. 
This is on account of the length of the 
staple, to help prevent "licking." The 
roving is next spun, either a ring 
frame or mule being used, generally 
the latter. If a ring frame is used, the 
gauges should be as follows: For 90s 
yarn from this stock, l^-inch diam- 
eter ring, 5-inch traverse, 31 turns 
per inch and a spindle speed of 7,400. 
After being conditioned, the yarn is 
ready to use. For the warp yarn use 
the particulars given in the article on 
dhooties, except that the yarn is not 
twisted. A good size mixture for slash- 
er is as follows; Water, 100 gallons, 
potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire 
gum, 2 pounds; white soap, iy 2 pounds. 



SUSPENDER WEBBING 

Suspender webbing is, as the name 
implies, used for suspenders. It is of 
two types, elastic and nonelastic. The 
nonelastic type is made into suspen- 
ders in connection with elastic straps 
connected to the buckles. An ad- 
vantage claimed for this webbing is 
that there is no friction on the cloth- 
ing at the shoulders, the rubber at the 
front and back, on the part between 
the buttons and the buckles, taking 
care of variable tensions caused by the 
different movements of the body. 

Being subjected to hard usage, the 
goods are made firm in the loom, of 
strong materials. They are of vary- 
ing grades and qualities. In width 
they vary from 1 to If inches. 

The analysis of a cotton webbing of 
a cheap grade shows the following 
data: warps, 117 ends of 2-40s cotton 
for face and edges; 50 ends of 2 -20s 
for back; 24 ends of 2-30s for binders 
or stitchers; 25 ends of 42 rubber. 

There are 90 picks of 2-16s filling 
per inch, finished. As these goods are 
held tight in the loom on account of 
the rubber warp, 60 picks per inch 
only would be put in the loom, the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



621 



webbing contracting 50 per cent in 
length after being woven. 

The width of the web is 1 7-16 
inches. 

The full layout is shown in the har- 
ness draft, Fig. 1, the various warps 
being drawn as follows: binder ends 
through harness No. 1, rubber ends 



Goods like the one under considera- 
tion would be woven on a positively- 
acted side cam loom, actuated by in- 
terchangeable sectional cams. The 
cams are 12 picks to the round or re- 
peat. One shuttle only is required for 
each web. 

For .more elaborate goods a dobby 



5 5 5 
4 4 4 
3 3 


i 
7 
6 
5 
4 
3 3 
2 

1 


J 
7 

6 
5 5 
4 
3 
2 
1 


+ ■ 
7 7 

6 6 

5 5 

4 4 4 

3 3 3 

2 2 

1 1 


7 

6 
5 5 
4 
3 


I 
7 

6 
5 
4 4 
3 
2 
1 


1. 
7 

6 
5 5 

1 

3 3 

2 


J 

5 5 
4 4 4 
3 3 3 



Fig. 1. 



through harness No. 2, face and edge 
ends through harnesses Nos. 3, 4 and 
5, and the back ends through har- 
nesses Nos. 6 and 7. The daggers in- 
dicate where the ends are divided by 
the reed, the entire web occupying 27 
dents of a reed containing 17 dents 
per inch. 

Each binder end works between two 
back ends. To add bulk to the fab- 
ric, coarse ends are sometimes insert- 
ed in the center of the cloth; these 
are drawn through the same harnesses 
as the rubber. 

The chain draft is shown in Fig. 2. 
By comparing Figs. 1 and 2 it will be 
seen that the web is a multiple or com- 
pound fabric, all face ends being 
raised when back picks are inserted, 
all back ends depressed when face 
picks are inserted, all rubber ends 
raised on back picks and depressed on 
face picks, thereby being between the 
face and back fabrics. 

The binders tie the fabrics into one 
compound fabric. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
Suspender looms are made with 
more or less attachments according to 
requirements. They are capable of 
running upward of 40 webs at the 
same time, so that production of one 
loom is considerable. The shuttles, 
one for each web in the simpler type, 
are actuated on the rack and pinion 
principle in a positive manner. On 
sbme goods, where silk filling is used 
for figuring purposes, three or four 
shuttles are required for each web. 



or jacquard head is used in connec- 
tion with the cams, the latter work- 
ing the harnesses for the ground, and 
the head motion actuating the figuring 
yarns. 

□■■■■■□ 

■DIDIDD 
DMHOl 
■□□■■DP 
[]■■■■■□ 

uammaca 

DIMKM 

■DBOBDD 

□■■■■■d 
innnnn 

£)■■■■□■ 
■nMQDQ 
1284667 

Fig. 2. 

Separate warp beams, or spools, are 
required for each different count of 
warp yarn, for each web. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Like other fabrics that have been 
already described in these articles, the 
yarns of which the webbing for sus- 
penders is made vary as to count, but 
in this special case there is a wide 
range of the stock used and the 
question is as to whether it 
shall be carded, or carded and 
combed. The higher grades of web- 
bing are composed of the longer sta- 
pled cottons, even the longest staple 
Sea Island being used for the very fine 
grades, this cotton being, of course, 
combed, and from this down to the 
short stapled carded cotton. The sam- 
ple that has been taken for this article 
is of medium grade and is composed 
of four different counts of yarn, which 
are as follows: 2-40s warp for face 



622 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



and ends and 2-20s for the 
back; 2-oOs is used for the 
binder and 2-16s for the filling yarns. 
The 2-40s and 2-30s yarns would be 
constructed from the same staple and, 
stock or American cotton of 1 5-16 -inch 
staple, and the 2-20s and 2-16s would 
be made from peeler cotton of 1%- 
inch staple. The picking particulars 
that have been given in previous ar- 
ticles may be used for these counts 
and staple cottons may be used, the 
following exceptions being noted. The 
total weight of the lap at the differ- 
ent processes for the 1 5-16-inch 
stock is as follows: breaker picker, 40 
pounds oral6-ounce lap; intermediate 
picker, 38 pounds or a 12-ounce 
lap and at the finisher picker 35 pounds 
or a 12 1 / ^-ounce lap. For the 1%-inch 
stock the weights would be as fol- 
lows: 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap at 
the breaker, 39 pounds or a 12%-ounce 
lap at the intermediate and 39 pounds 
or a 14^ -ounce lap at the finisher 
picker. The beater speeds used would 
be the same for both cottons, i. e., 1,- 
500 revolutions per minute at breaker 
and intermediate and 1,450 revolutions 
per minute at the finisher, which gives 
the cotton passing through the finisher 
picker about 42 beats or blows per 
inch. At the card the draft of the 
1 5-16 inch stock should be not less 
than 100 and the speed of the licker- 
in 350 revolutions per minute, while 
the flats, 110, make one complete revo- 
lution every 50 minutes. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 

should be about 60 grains per yard 
and the production 750 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. The draft for the 
1%-inch stock should not exceed 95 
and the speed of the licker-in is about 
375 revolutions per minute, while the 
flats make a revolution every 55 min- 
utes. The weight of the sliver should 
be 65 grains per yard and the produc- 
tion 850 to 900 pounds per week. For 
all other particulars see previous ar- 
ticles. The main point of difference 
in the setting points would be at the 
licker-in and feed plates, which should 
be set to accommodate each staple. 
The slivers are next put through three 



processes of drawings, the doublings 
at each process being 6 into 1. 

The weight of the sliver at the fin- 
isher drawing should be 70 grains per 
yard for both staples and the speed of 
the front roll 350 revolutions per min- 
ute. Either metallic or leather-cov- 
ered top rolls may be used, but should 
favor the metallic rolls for these 
stocks. The drawings should be sized 
four times a day, and kept within two 
grains either side of standard weight. 
Watch your stop-motions and also the 
drawing as it is being delivered, to 
see that no cut work is made, for this 
causes a lot of trouble in subsequent 
processes. All drawing as it is de- 
livered in full cans at the finisher 
drawing should be marked with chalk 
so that it may always be distinguished 
from the other staples, kinds ana 
weights. These slivers are then put 
through the slubber and made into 
.50 hank roving, after which they are 
made into the following hank roving 
at the different processes named: For 
the 2 -40s yarn, first intermediate, 2 
hank, and second, 8 hank; for 2-30s 
yarn, first intermediate, 2 hank, and 
second, 6 hank; for 2-20s yarn, first 
intermediate, 1.25 hank, and second, 4 
hank; for 2-16s yarn, first intermedi- 
ate, 1, and 3 at the second intermedi- 
ate. These rovings ohould be sized 
once a day, six bobbins being sized 
from each different hank. 

WATCH YOUR TWIST 
to see that you are putting in neither 
too much nor too little, and also your 
tension to see that you are not putting 
too great a strain on the yarn and 
thus making strained or unevenly 
drawn roving. The layers per inch are 
also another important point, and for 
the hank rovings given above a good 
number is as follows: For the 3 hank, 
20 layers per inch; for 4 hank, 25 lay- 
ers; 6 hank. 33 layers, and for 8 hanks. 
38 layers. The top leather rolls should 
always be kept in good condition and 
if not should be sent to be recovered. 
In putting in new rolls always put two 
new rolls on the same arbor and not, 
as is sometimes done, one old roll and 
one new roll. Keep rolls well oiled 
and also the spindle stops, which 
should be oiled at least once a month. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



623 



The roving is next spun on spinning 
frames into 40s, 30s, 20s and 16s, re- 
spectively. The particulars for these 
frames, with the exception of the 16s, 
have been previously given. For spin- 
ning 16s filling use a frame having a 
2% -inch gauge, 1^-inch diameter ring 
and a e^-inch traverse with a spindle 
speed of 7,000 revolutions per minute 
of the spindles. The yarn is then put 
through several special processes dif- 
ferent from the machinery used for 
regular cloth warp and filling, when it 
is ready for the suspender loom. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
SKY BLUB. 
One per cent diamine sky blue FF.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

PINK. 

One-half per cent Erika pink G.; 1 
per cent sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
One-half per cent diamine fast yel- 
low B.; y 2 per cent diamine green G.; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

YELLOW. 
One per cent chrysophenine; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 

RED. 
' Two per cent diamine fast red F.; 

1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

SCARLET. 
Three per cent benzo fast red 4 B.; 

2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

SLATE. 
One per cent diamine black BH.; 
Ya. per cent diamine fast yellow A.; 1 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

BROWN. 
Two per cent diamine brown B.; *& 
per cent diamine fast yellow A. ; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent diamine dark bluo 
B.; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's. 



BLACK. 

Five per cent oxydiamine black 
NA.; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's; after- treat with formalde- 
hyde. 

BRONZE. 
Three per cent diamine bronze G. ; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

ECRU. 
Two ounces diamine catechine G. ; 
V 2 pound sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

+~*~* 1 — 

INDIAN DIMITY 

Under the head of dimity are a va- 
riety of cotton fabrics characterized 
by stripes and cords, in both warp and 
filling way of the fabric, but more com- 
monly the stripes and cords are in 
the warp only. 

Dimity originally was understood to 
mean a stout cotton fabric with raised 
stripes, cords, crimps or ridges in the 
warp way of the fabric. These fabrics 
were further ornamented by being 
printed in various colors lengthwise of 
the fabric, in small patterns. This 
fabric was principally used for furni- 
ture covering and for like purposes. 

Under the head of Indian dimity is a 
class of fabrics somewhat similar to 
the dimity described above, but made 
with finer yarn and used principally as 
a dress fabric. 

The stripes and cords, however, con 
stitute 

THE CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE 
of the fabric; the fabric without these 
stripes and cords would in all respects 
resemble a fair quality of lawn, ba- 
tiste or muslin. 

The cords in an Indian dimity ap- 
pear in the fabric at regular intervals 
across the entire width. These cords 
may be effected by working two or 
more ends on the same harness or by 
using a coarser thread than the body 
of the warp. The cord usually inter- 
laces with the filling in the same 
manner as the ground; that is, on the 
plain weave order. In addition to these 
cords, the fabric, after it is woven, is 
printed in stripes in the direction of 



624 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



the warp, with high colors. The pat- 
terns of these stripes are usually con- 
ventionalized floral figures. These 
floral stripes may alternate with an 
appropriate geometrical figured stripe. 
In the latter stripe the colors are usu- 
ally more subdued, thus producing 
contrast and variety, a very desirable 
feature in a dress fabric, especially so 
in the cheaper grades of printed dress 
fabrics. 

Varying the quality of cotton fabrics 
is such a general practice and is car- 
ried to such an extent that some fab- 
rics lose their individuality; a fabric 
such as an Indian dimity, that has 
features in addition to its construc- 
tion, has considerable scope for varia- 
tion, consequently we find various 
grades and styles of Indian dimity — 
some in which the cords are much 
farther apart than in others, or suf- 
ficiently spaced to allow the stripe to 
be printed between the raised cords, 
and others in which the cords are very 
close together, with but two or three 
ends between each cord. (See weave 
Fig. 1.) In printed fabrics of this 
character where the printed patterns 
are in the form of a stripe, the cords 
should not be too prominent, or, if 
they must be prominent, the printed 
stripe should be of such a design that 
the outline is of an indefinite charac- 
ter, so that if any inaccuracy occurs in 

ODBQBDDBnB 

^mamammama 
oamamaamam 

■Miiniinin * 

ddbqbqqbdb 

■iqiqiidiq 

DDHDBDDBOa 

mmDmammama 
Fig. 1. 

□□□annonoB 

□□DQDOQnBC! 
ODDDDDDBDn 
DDDDDBBDaa 
DDDDBDDDna 
□DDBDOQaDn 

ooBaaocoaa 

BBaOQDQDCia 

Fig. 2. 
■BBDDBBBOa 
DDDBBDDaBB 

rig. 3. 

the printing, that is, if the cloth does 
not run perfectly straight through the 
printing machine, and the printed 
stripe interlaces too much with the 
cord, it appears as if the printed stripe 
was promiscuously placed on the fab- 
ric. The neatest patterns are those in 
which the ends are not very promi- 



nent and the stripe is printed over 
them at apparently regular intervals. 
Fig. 2 represents the drawing-in draft; 
Fig. 3 the reeding plan. 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 
Width of warp in reed, 30% inches; 
width of fabric finished. 29 inches; 
ends per inch finished, 94; 1,300 x 2 
reed; ends in warp, 2,724. 

Dressing: 1-2 E. white in 1 hed. 

1 E. white. 

1 E. white. 

1 E. white. 

4-5 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 
per cent; warp yarn, 1-80; filling yarn, 
1-100. Picks per inch, 76. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Light-weight cotton fabrics, such as 
an Indian dimity, may be woven on 
any light built single box loom. The 
principal consideration should be giv- 
en to the speed of the loom, as fabrics 
of this class require large production 
in order to amply compensate the 
manufacturers for making them. High- 
speed looms would answer for weav- 
ing this class of goods. 

FINISHING. 

The fabric, after it is woven, is 
bleached, then slightly stiffened by 
immersing in a light solution of size. 
The size may be composed of the fol- 
lowing ingredients: flour, wax and gel- 
atine. After the sizing the fabric is 
dried, then slightly sprinkled with 
water, then run through a rotary 
press, after which follows the print- 
ing process. The fabric is then again 
slightly pressed in order to take out 
the creases which it contracted dur- 
ing the printing; then it is made up 
into laps or rolls. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that make up Indian 
dimity are made in mills of the third 
division, as given in a previous ar- 
ticle. The fabric is generally made 
from peeler or Sea Island cotton of 
from 1 7-16 to 1% inch staple. The 
sample under description is composed 
of l-100s filling yarn and l-80s warp 
yarn and for this article we will con- 
sider both yarns to be made from 1%- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



m 



inch staple, Florida Sea Island cotton. 
Particular care should be paid to the 
mixing of this cotton and all bales 
not up to grade and staple should not 
be used. At the mixing bin the good 
sliver from the machines up to the 
slubber should be mixed with the raw 
stock. Too much waste should not be 
mixed on account of making the lap 
fleece. As this cotton is of a long 
staple it is very easy to put neps into 
it, and thus too great a speed of the 
beater of the picker should not be 
allowed. The beater should be run 
just fast enough to take out the dirt. 
This speed varies, on different stocks 
of the same length of staple, from 
800 to 1,350 revolutions per min- 
ute. A good average speed of a two- 
bladed, rigid type of beater for the 
breaker is 1,200 revolutions per min- 
ute, and for the finisher, 1,025 revolu- 
tions per minute. This latter speed 
gives the cotton passing through it 
about 29 beats or blows per inch. Sea 
Island cotton is generally put through 
only two processes of pickers and 
sometimes does not even pass through 
an opener, although this is an excep- 
tion rather than a rule. At the break- 
er picker the lap at the front end 
weighs 30 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. 
These are put up and doubled 4 into 
1 at the finisher picker, and the total 
weight of lap at this machine is 29^ 
pounds, or a 10-ounce lap. A varia- 
tion of one-half pound either side of 
standard weight is allowed. These 
laps are put up at the card. The 

DRAFT OF THIS MACHINE 

for this stock varies according to the 
idea of the one in charge, but should 
not be less than 125. The top flats 
should be clothed with No. 36s wire 
and should make one complete revolu- 
tion every 35 minutes. The speed of 
the licker-in should be less than that 
used for shorter and coarser cottons 
and should not exceed 300 revolutions 
per minute, as it is claimed that this 
speed is high enough to tear it apart 
and clean it thoroughly and still not 
put neps into it. The doffer should be 
of as large a diameter as possible and 
should be clothed with No. 36s wire 



fillet. The cylinder fillet should be 
No. 34s. The weight of the sliver 
should be about 37 grains and the 
production, per week of 60 hours, 350 
pounds. Clean, strip, and grind cards, 
as has been already stated in previous 
articles. The sliver is then taken to 
the sliver lap machine and for an 8%- 
inch lap is doubled 14 into 1. The 
weight of the sliver at the front of this 
machine is 230 grains per yard of lap. 
Watch your stop-motions on this 
machine. The laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 
1, although some mills make a heavier 
lap at the sliver lap machine, and only 
double 5 into 1 at the ribbon lap ma- 
chine. The weight per yard of lap at 
the front of this machine is 210 grains. 
The rolls of the sliver lap machine for 
this stock are set as follows: Front to 
middle, 1% inches; middle to back, 
1% inches and for the ribbon lap, 
front to second, 1% inches; second to 
third, 1% inches; third to back, 1% 
inches. The laps are put up at the 
comber and doubled either 6 or 8 
into 1, according to the number of 
heads that the comber contains, which 
we will consider to be 6. The sliver 
from this machine weighs 35 grains 
per yard; 25 per cent waste is taken 
out and the speed of the machine is 
90 nips per minute. Use setting and 
timing previously given for this grade 
of stock. The cotton is next put 
through two processes of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 

the speed of the front roll being 350 
revolutions per minute, and the 
weight of the sliver at the finisher 
drawing being 60 grains per yard. It 
is an important point to prevent all 
singles and doubles at this machine 
and to help make perfect drawing 
all stop-motions should be in perfect 
condition. Another important part to 
watch is the setting of the rolls. For 
this stock a good rule is as follows: 
Front to second, 1% inches; second 
to third, 11 inches; third to back, 11 
inches. These settings may be used 
at both drawings, although if settings 
are closed up 1-16 of an inch between 
each roll at the finisher drawing it 
will not injure the staple. 



m 



A COTTON FABRICS GLGSsAftY 



The top leather rolls of the sliver 
lap, ribbon lap, comber, and drawing 
frames should be kept in perfect con- 
dition and always well varnished. A 
stock of new and newly varnished 
rolls should always be kept on hand 
and the rolls on the machine examined 
frequently to see that they are per- 
fect. Good recipes for varnish have 
been previously given. Parts of the 
machines to which it is not a general 
custom to give much notice are the 
clearers. Now they are impor- 
tant and should be looked after 
carefully to see that they are doing 
their duty properly. This refers to 
both top and bottom clearers on all 
machines on which they are used. 

At the slubber the drawing is made 
into .80 hank roving. At this machine 
watch the top rolls, the build of the 
bobbin, the lay, twist, tension and 
traverse motion. For this stock the 
front rolls are generally varnished 
and if it is in a mill made to run this 
length of stock the top and bottom 
front rolls are of a larger diameter so 
that the stock will not lick up so 
easily. The roller settings for the 
slubber are as follows: front to middle, 
1% inches; middle to back, 1% in- 
ches. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING 

is then put through three more proc- 
esses of fly frames, the hank roving 
made at each process being as fol- 
lows: First intermediate, 2.25; second, 
5, and fine, 18 hank for warp yarn 
and 20 hank for filling yarn. The 
warp yarn is ring spun on a frame 
having a 1%-inch diameter ring, 5*4- 
inch traverse, 39.08 twist per inch and 
a spindle speed of 9,600 revolutions 
per minute. The yarn is then spooled 
and warped and then run through a 
slasher, after which it is drawn in 
and is then ready to weave. A good 
slasher size for this yarn is as fol- 
lows: Water, 100 gallons; potato 
starch, 70 pounds; tallow, 7 pounds; 
Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; white soap, 
2 pounds. Boil two hours and let 
stand 10 hours before using. Keep 
agitator running and keep size almost 
at a boiling point when sizing. The 
yarn for filling is generally mule spun, 



after which it is conditioned and then 
is ready for weaving. 

Colors for Printing. 
PALE VIOLET. 
Prepare ten gallons of printing paste 
with one pound chrome violet M for 
printing; 60 pounds gum solution 1. 
1; two pounds glycerine; 33 % pounds 
water. Heat to about 160 degrees F., 
allow to cool, then add 2y 2 pounds 
formic acid, 90 per cent; 1 pound ace- 
tate chrome, 32 degrees Tw. 

DEEP VIOLET. 

For 10 gallons paste, 10 pounds 
chrome violet M for printing; 50 
pounds starch tragacanth 65 : 1,000; 
34 pounds water. Heat to about 160 
degrees F., allow to cool; add 2% 
pounds formic acid, 90 per cent; 3% 
pounds acetate of chrome, 32 degrees 
Tw. 

BLUE. 

For 10 gallons paste, liy 2 pounds 
chrome fast blue F R for printing; 3% 
pounds chrome violet M for printing; 
45 pounds starch tragacanth thicken- 
ing; 12 pounds water; heat to about 
160 degrees F.; allow to cool then add 
three pounds hyraldite A, dissolved in 
3y 2 pounds water; one pound form- 
aldehyde, 40 per cent; 2% pounds 
formic acid; 15 pounds acetate of 
chrome; steam through Mather & 
Piatt. The pieces are then left exposed 
to the air for several hours, passed 
through a weak chrome bath, washed, 
soaped, rinsed and dried. 
SKY BLUE. 

Two and one-half ounces alizarine 
blue S P; 2y 2 pints gum thickening; 1 
quart water; *£ pint acetate chrome 
32 degrees Tw. Print and steam and 
soap. 

PEA GREEN. 

Two pints alizarine green D G 
paste; \y 2 gallons tragacanth thick- 
ening; 1 gill acetate of chrome 32 de- 
grees Tw.; 2 quarts water. Print 
steam and soap. 

PINK. 

Four ounces rhodamine 6 G; V% 
pint water; 1% quarts tragacanth 
thickening; %, pint acetic acid, 9 de- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



627 



grees Tw.; ^4 pint acetate chrome, 
32 degrees Tw. Print, steam and soap 

RED. 
One pound brilliant Rhoduline red 
B D; 1 gill glycerine; 2 pints water; 
iy 2 pounds acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 
1 gallon gum water, 1 : 1; 2 pints 
acetic acid, tannic acid solution, 1:1. 
Print, steam one hour, soap. 

PURPLE. 
Five ounces methyl violet 2 R; 2V 2 
quarts water; 3 pints acetic acid, 9 
degrees Tw.; iy± gallons gum water 
1:1; iy 2 pints acetic acid, tannic acid 
solution 1 : 1. Print, steam one hour, 
soap. 



GRENADINE 

Grenadine is a fine gauzy dress fab- 
ric made with various combinations of 
materials, such as silk and cotton, silk 
and wool, or cotton and wool, and 
some of the cheaper grades are made 
with all cotton yarns. 

The fabric is plain and loosely wo- 
ven and invariably ornamented by 
stripes, sometimes in both warp and 
filling, but usually in the warp only. 
These stripes may be of an ordinary 
satin or uneven sided twill weave. In 
the better grades of grenadine the 
ornamentation is more intricate, that 
is, the figuring is of such a character 
that it requires a special loom, such 
as a lappet or swivel loom. If the 
figuring is to be effected by means of 
an extra filling, the swivel loom is 
used. With the use of this loom the 
figuring is in the form of spots or 
set figures over the entire fabric. 

The grenadine of which the analysis 
will follow, is a cotton warp and silk 
filling fabric, ornamented with a zig- 
zag warp stripe, effected by the lappet 
attachment to the loom. 

This method of forming stripes on a 
fabric was in use prior to the introduc- 
tion of the swivel loom. The method 
of operation in this class of weaving 
consists of passing an Independent set 
of threads through a series of needles 
set in a frame. This frame is situated 
between the reed and shuttle race way 
of the lay. 



This frame is arranged so as to slide 
horizontally to and fro. This sliding 
is regulated by the pattern chain, and 
the needles are lowered at the proper 
time, so as to allow the figuring 
threads to interlace with the ground 
cloth, by passing the filling over the 
figuring threads, thereby binding the 
figuring threads into the ground struc- 
ture of the fabric. The movements of 
the needles may be timed so as to in- 
terweave with the ground cloth at 
each throw of the shuttle or other- 
wise, as may be desired. The figuring 
threads, however, must be on a sep- 
arate warp beam on account of the 
difference of take-up during weaving. 

Diagram, Fig. 1, illustrates the 
method of interlacing the figuring 
threads into the ground structure of 
the fabric. 

This fabric, as mentioned above, is 
of an openwork texture. The construc- 
tion, that is, the ends and picks per 
inch in the ground structure of the 
fabric, should be of such a number as 
to make the fabric firm enough to 
fulfill its purposes. As the fabric is 
used entirely for dress goods, it is 
subjected to considerable wear. In 
order to retain its characteristic fea- 
ture, that is, transparency or open- 
ness of texture, the ends and picks 
per inch should be of such a number 
that in the finished fabric the meshes 
will be no larger than the diameter 
of the yarn used in tne fabric; other- 
wise the fabric will not wear satis- 
factorily. 

From the above it will be observed 
that in order to produce a fabric that 
is satisfactory in all its aspects, viz., 
appearance, feel or handle and wear- 
ing qualities, absolute accuracy is re- 
quired in calculating for the construc- 
tion of such a fabric. Grenadine may 
be woven in the gray, then dyed any 
color desired, or the warp may be 
dyed in the hank and the filling dyed 
after it is woven into the fabric. In 
the better grades these fabrics are 
usually woven with dyed yarns. The 
prevailing color for grenadines is solid 
black. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 30 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 27.5 inches; 



628 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ends per inch in reed, 84; ends per 
inch finished, 92. Reed, 42x2; take-up 
of ground warp during weaving, 5 per 
cent; take-up of figuring warp during 
weaving, 12 times the length of fabric 
woven; ground warp, l-60s cotton; fig- 
uring warp, 2 -40s mercerized cotton. 
In the drawing in, the ground warp 
only is drawn through the heddles in 
the harness; the figuring warp passes 
over the harness into the eyes of the 
needles, the needles being in front of 
the reed. The figuring warp is not 



entirely on the character of figure to 
be woven. The jacquard loom is used 
when the fabric is to be ornamented 
by large broken plaids, requiring too 
many ends to be conveniently handled 
on a dobby loom. 

FINISHING. 

The finer grade of grenadine re 
quires very little attention as regards 
finishing. After the fabric comes from 
the loom it is examined for broken 
threads or picks. The finishing is prac- 




Fig. 1. 



drawn through the reed, but is guided 
entirely by the needles. 

Filling: 1*4 dram silk, picks, 90 per 
inch finished. 

Fig. 2 shows ground and figure 
weave. 

Fig. 3 ground warp drawing-in draft. 
LOOMS USED. 

These fabrics are woven on various 
looms, various makes of dobby looms, 
lappet, swivel or jacquard, depending 



tically in the weaving. If the fabric is 
perfect when it comes from the loom, 
it is run through the rotary press, sub- 
jected to a little steaming and slight 
pressure, and then made up into laps 
ready for the consumer. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn used for the 
warp in the sample described above 
for grenadine are l-60s ground warp 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



629 



and 2-40s for figuring warp. The sta- 
ple cotton used for the ground warp 
would be about 11-inch for Allen 
or peeler cotton, while that used 
for the figuring warp, which is 
mercerized, would be made from 
an Egyptian or Sea Island cotton, 
which is especially adapted for mer- 
cerizing purposes, of 1%-inch staple. 
The 1%-inch peeler cotton would be 



er 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap, inter 
mediate, 38 pounds or a 12-ounce Ian, 
and at the finisher, a 38-pound or a 13- 
ounce lap. For the Sea Island stock 
there would be an opener and two 
processes of pickers, the speed of a 
rigid, two-bladed beater being as fol- 
lows: 1,300 revolutions per minute at 
breaker and 1,200 revolutions per min- 
ute at finisher; the weight of the lap 




put through an opener and three proc- 
esses of pickers, the speed of a two- 
bladed beater being as follows: 
Breaker, 1,500 revolutions per minute; 
intermediate, 1,400 revolutions per 
minute, and finisher, 1,400 revolutions 
per minute. The weights of the lap 
for this fabric would be, at the break- 



would be 34 pounds or a 10-ounce lap 
at breaker, and at the finisher 30 
pounds or a 10% -ounce lap. For 
general instructions for mixing and 
picking, use those that have been pre 
viously given. At the card the partic- 
ulars used for the peeler cotton are: 
A draft of not less than 110, with a 



630 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



licker-in speed of 300 revolutions per 
minute, fiats (110) making one com- 
plete revolution every 35 minutes. 
The speed of the cylinder is 160 revo- 
lutions per minute. The production 
should be 500 pounds with a 45 -grain 
sliver for 60 hours per week. 

FOR SEA ISLAND STOCK 
the draft should not be less than 130. 
The speed of the licker-in is 275 rev- 
olutions per minute, flat 1 revolution 
in 35 minutes, the weight of sliver 40 



out and the settings and timings used 
are the same as those given in the ar- 
ticle on Indian dimity. 
VARNISH. 

Do not use the same varnish for the 
sliver lap, ribbon lap and draw box 
rolls and the leather detaching rolls of 
the comber. For the latter use a var- 
nish that has less glue and a dead fin- 
ish, while for the former rolls use a 
roll with a smooth, glossy finish, but 
use a varnish that does not peal or 



GnaDniiaanaaannnBnnannDaBanDanan«nnnnDan«nnDnagniinc!DDDnn«annD3DDn 

DanaDBnnDDaaaBanannnnBDnDnaGaBaDaaoanBDanaaaDBnoanaggBDDgggggggg 
DDGnBDnnnDaaBnnaaDaDBaDDnnnDBaaagnDgBagggDggBgggggggBggDDngngggg 
naDBnaDaaDaBnaanaanBnnaDnanBnaanaQGBannaaDaBuaaDaaDBnDgjgggBgggg 
□nBnDnaDDnBnDoaaaaBnaaananBnnnDanDBDnaaDDDBaannoanBaagnnDgBgggng 
DBODaGDnnBaanaaDnBDDanaaDBnDDaDaaBacDangnBaaggnngBgggggggBgggnpD 
BnDannDDBaaaQDDDBaaaanDnBnnaDDnaBannnaDDBaanaaaaBaaaanaDB aaaanaa 

Fig. 3. 



grains per yard and the production 
350 pounds per week. The wire fillet 
used for both stocks should be 34s 
for cylinder and 36s for top flats and 
doffer. Use as large a doffer as pos- 
sible. The setting points have been 
given previously for these stocks. 
Strip three times a day and grind 
each card at least a day every month. 
Both the Sea Island and the peeler 
cottons for this class of goods are 
combed and for this article we will 
suppose that an 8%-inch lap is used. 
For 

THE PEELER STOCK 

the ends are doubled 14 into 1 at the 
sliver lap machine or, as it is some- 
times called, the small doubler, the 
weight per yard of the lap being 300 
grains, and at the ribbon lap or large 
doubler these laps are doubled 6 in- 
to 1, the weight of the lap being 280 
grains per yard. These laps are put 
up at the comber and doubled 6 into 
1. The percentage of waste taken out 
is 16 and the weight of the sliver is 
45 grains per yard. Use settings and 
timings previously given. For the Sea 
Island stock the weight at the sliver 
lap is 220 grains per yard and these 
laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the rib- 
bon lap machine, the weight of the 
lap being 215 grains per yard. At the 
comber the doublings are 6 into 1 and 
the weight of sliver is 35 grains per 
yard; 20 per cent of waste is taken 



crack easily. Always keep rolls well 
varnished and in good condition. The 
comber sliver is next put through two 
processes of drawing frames, the 
doublings being 8 into 1 at the break- 
er for peeler and 6 into 1 for Sea 
Island, while at the breaker the 
doubling is 6 into 1 for both stocks. 




If metallic rolls are used they should 
be spread % of an inch farther apart 
than when leather top rolls are used. 
Watch the stop-motions. The weight 
of the drawing sliver at the finisher 
drawing is 75 grains per yard for the 
peeler and 60 grains for the Sea Island 
stock. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



<S3l 



At the slubber the sliver for 60s 
yarn is made up into .50 hank roving, 
after which it passes through three 
processes of fly frames or speeders, 
being made into the follow- 
ing hank roving at each process: 
1st intermediate, 1 hank; 2d interme- 
diate, 3 hank, and fine frame, 12 hank. 
The Sea Island stock is made into .70 
hank at the slubber and passes 
through two processes of fly frames, 
where it is made into 2.25 hank rov- 
ing at 1st intermediate and 8 hank at 
finisher frame. Use all the precau- 
tions given in previous lessons as to 
rolls, etc., and remember that the Sea 
Island stock 

REQUIRES LESS TWIST 

per inch than the peeler. The peeler 
cotton is made into 60s hank on a 
warp spinning frame, the particulars 
of which have been given in a pre- 
vious article, while the Sea Island is 
made into 40s yarn on a warp frame 
having a 1%-inch diameter ring with 
a 6-inch traverse and a spindle speed 
of 10,000 revolutions per minute; this 
is then twisted and put through the 
mercerizing process, after which it is 
ready for use. 

A good slasher sizing for 60s yarn 
for light-weight cloth is as follows: 
Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 
pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds, and 
white soap, iy 2 pounds. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Dyed in jig machine. 

BLACK. 

8 per cent thion black TGC; 8 pei 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

BLJE. 

6 per cent thion blue B. ; 10 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent salt. 

Dye and rinse well. After-treat with 
2 per cent peroxide sodium; 8 per 
cent sulphate magnesia; 8 per cent 
acetic acid, 8 degrees Be. Dissolve the 
sulphate of magnesia first, then put 
in the peroxide of sodium in small 
Quantities, and enter the goods; work 



for 20 minutes first; then run the 
acetic acid into the bath, and gradually 
increase the heat to about 180 de 
grees P. 

BROWN. 

4 per cent thion brown R. ; 4 per ' 
cent thion brown O.; 2 per cent thion 
orange N.; 12 per cent sulphide so- 
dium ; 3 per cent soda ash ; 30 per cent 
salt. 

■•—-+■ 



BRILLIANTE 



Brilliante is a cotton fabric of light 
or medium weight, distinguished by 
small, detached figures, usually of geo- 
metrical or simple character, arranged 
on a plain ground. The figures are 
formed with the filling, which is soft 
twisted. 

The object sought is to cover the 
warp with the filling as much as pos- 




Fig. 1. 

sible, both in the ground and figure. 
It is obtained by using warp yarns 
considerably finer than those used for 
the filling in the same piece, aided by 
the slack twist in the filling. 

The goods are used principally for 
shirtwaists and dress goods. 

Fig. 1 illustrates a typical brilliante 
fabric, the analysis of which shows 
the following data: 88 sley, 66 picks, 
50s warp, 30s filling; finished width, 
26% inches. The pattern is. complete 
on 100 ends and 84 picks. The figures 
are arranged in irregular positions, 8 
in a repeat. 



$32 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



One of the figures is illustrated in 
Fig. 2; marks represent filling. 

Like many other cotton fabrics, 
goods under this name are made in va- 
rious grades, variations in the counts 
of yarns necessitating corresponding 
variations in the counts of cloth. A 

nnDGonDBDDDDnnnDaonDGn 

DDaanDBBBaODDDDDDDDLCg 

naaaGBBBBBGGnaaaiicaccu 
naaaBBBBBBBGGGDacancca 
naaa"« bbbbgggggl dccd 



■■■■■■iagiiSSSf 



■■■■■■■igbbbbbbbcgcccg 

aaGBBBBBBBGBBBaQaCCCCa 
aGaaBBBBBBBCBCQCtCGQCG 
DaaaaBBBBBBBGaGBBBCGCa 

QcaaaaBBBBBaagBBBBBCca 
naanaaaBBBGaaBBBBGBBcn 

DaDananGBDGGBBJBBBBBBG 

aaaaaaGaaGGBBBBBBBBjBB 
aaaaaaaDaaaaBBBBBBBrBg 
aaaaaDaaaagaaiBBBBBBog 
DnaaaoaaDncGGGBBBBBCGD 
DnaaDGaaaaaaaaaBBBacag 
DaaoGGDaaoaanaDQBacaaa 

FiK.2. 



fabric under consideration, shown in 
Fig. 3, has a filling so coarse, as com- 
pared with the warp, that it has the 
appearance of a poplin ground. This 
is a dobby pattern, the spots being 
arranged in a 4-end sateen or broken 
crow order. Each spot is made by the 
filling covering nine ends on two 
picks, as in Fig. 4. The float of the 
second pick of each alternate spot is 
moved over two ends. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Most brilliante patterns necessitate 
the use of a jacquard head. A machine 
of 300 or 400 hooks gives ample scope 
for designs. The goods being of firm 



Fig. 3. 

structure, with all the ends taking up 
practically evenly, they could be wo- 
ven most economically on a light run- 
ning single box loom fitted with a 
double lift, single cylinder jacquard. 



0n3 warp and one filling only are re- 
quired. 

There being but little scope for de- 
veloping other than small designs of 
this type, on dobby looms, they are 
made to but little extent on these 
looms. Experience has taught that 
patterns like Fig. 3 require too many 
harnesses on a dobby loom for weav- 
ing plain to the best advantage. 

FINISHING. 

These goods are usually subjected 
to the English or French nainsook fin- 
ishes, mercerized or printed. By the 
English finish the fabric, after it 
leaves the loom, is boiled off, then 
bleached, after which it is softened by 
immersing in a light solution of glyc- 
erine, or cocoanut oil, and flour or 
farina, after which it is dried by pass- 
ing over heated cylinders, then run 
through a rotary press with very light 
pressure. In the French finish, after 
the fabric is bleached it is stiffened by 
immersing in a solution of size, com- 
posed of the following ingredients: 
flour, wax and gelatine, after which 
the fabric is dried, then slightly sprin- 
kled with water, then run through the 
calender, which completes the finish- 
ing process. 

The fabric illustrated in Fig. 1 has 
undergone the mercerizing process of 
finishing, having been mercerized in 
the piece. Brilliante is a type of goods 
in which the essential qualities of the 
pattern are improved by the mercer- 
izing process. 

When they are printed, the printed 
patterns are secondary to the weave 
effects and usually consist of small 
detached sprig or floral effects ar- 
ranged a great distance apart. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which brilliante is com- 
posed are made in mills of the second 
and third division, as given in a previ- 
ous lesson. The yarns used in the 
sample under consideration are 50s for 
warp and 30s for filling. Both of these 
yarns are combed and made from the 
same grade and staple of cotton. The 
filling is coarser, and, according to es- 
tablished rules, should be made of a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



633 



shorter length of staple, and this 
would be true if it were not for the 
fact that in order to produce certain 
effects in the cloth this yarn is re- 
quired to have a softer twist than that 
generally employed for this count of 
yarn. The cotton used may be a peeler 
of 1*4 -inch staple. 

THE MIXING 
would be done as described in previous 
articles, the good sliver waste from 
the machines up to the slubber being 
thrown into the mixing bin. If the 
equipment of machinery does not in- 
clude a roving waste machine, a good 
way to mix the roving waste is as fol- 
lows: Run the roving waste through 
a picker, allowing it to run on the 
floor at the front, and not formed into 
a lap as is generally done; this is then 
gathered up and scattered over the 
mixing. This is a very good method, 
but is not generally used on account 
of the pickers having all they can do 
to keep up with the cards. This class 
of work is put through an opener and 
three processes of pickers. The pick- 
ers, if supplied with a rigid type of 
beater having two blades, have the 
following 

SPEEDS 
at each process: Breaker picker, 1,500 
revolutions per minute; the fan speed 
1,400 revolutions per minute; interme- 
diate picker, 1,450 revolutions per 
minute; fan speed, 1,050 revolutions 



Fig. 4. 

per minute; finisher picker, 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute; fan speed, 1,100 
revolutions per minute. The weights 
of the lap at the different processes 
are as follows, the doubling at each 
process after the breaker picker be- 
ing 4 into 1: breaker picker, total 
weight, 40 pounds; weight per yard, 
16 ounces; intermediate picker, 39 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap, and finisher 
picker, 36 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. 
Of course the laps should be kept of 
as even a weight as possible, a varia- 
tion of only 8 ounces either side of 
the standard weight being allowed at 
the finisher picker. These laps are 
put up at the card, and for 



this fabric the draft shoud not 
be less than 110. The licker-in 
speed should be 300 revolutions per 
minute. Flats should make one com- 
plete revolution every 38 or 40 min- 
utes. The weight per yard of the sliver 
at front is 50 grains per yard and pro- 
duction for a week of 60 hours is 550 
pounds. Set doffer to cylinder to a 
5-l,000th-inch gauge; licker-in to cylin- 
der to a 7-l,O0Oth-inch gauge. Set cylin- 
der screen at licker-in to 12 gauge, at 
center to a 34 gauge, and at front, %, 
inch. 

Set back plate to cylinder at 10 
gauge at bottom and at 22 at top ; lick- 
er-in screen to licker-in, 3-16ths inch 
from licker-in. Set licker-in knives 
top knife at 12 gauge, bottom knife 
at 5 gauge; if only one knife, set at 
5 gauge. Set feed plate to cylinder 
according to length of staple. This 
is 

AN IMPORTANT POINT 
many times overlooked by men in 
charge. The general rule is to set 
at this point the same for all lengths 
of staple. This is wrong, because in 
short-staple cotton the feed plate 
should be set closer than for long 
stock. For example, suppose the feed 
plate is set to licker-in at 7 gauge 
for 1%-inch stock and we will say that 
this gives the distance from bite of 
feed roll to licker-in 1% inches. Now 
we change to 1%-inch Sea Island 
stock. If we do not reset the feed 
plate we are almost sure to break the 
fibre, and if the cotton is stapled at 
the front of the card and compared 
with the staple at the back, it will 
be seen that this is what is being 
done. Of course the proper remedy 
for this is to get a feed plate with the 
proper shaped nose for each length of 
staple, but it is not always possible 
to do so; the 

NEXT BEST REMEDY 
is to set the feed plate farther back or 
to slow down the speed of your licker- 
in, so that the fibres will not be struck 
away from the feed roll so quickly. 
If the setting at this point is the same 
for all staples and gives a variation 
of y 2 -mch length in staple at front and 
back, note result. If the staple breaks, 



634 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



it is weakened so much. Set top flats 
to 12 gauge at back and to 10 gauge at 
other setting points. Set front strip- 
ping plate to 22 gauge at bottom and 
at top set from a 7 to a 12 gauge, 
according to the strip wanted. 

At the sliver lap machine the doub- 
ings are 14 into 1 for an 8% -inch lap, 
tbe weight of a yard of lap being 295 
grains. These are doubled 6 into 1 at 
ribbon lap, the weight being 275 grains 
per yard. At the comber these laps 
are doubled either six or eight into 
one according to the number of heads. 
For a 6-head comber the sliver at coil- 
er should weigh 45 grains per yard; 
speed of comber, 90 nips per minute; 
percentage of waste, 15; and draft 
about 27.50. Use same setting and 
timing as given in previous articles. 

At 

THE DRAWING FRAME 

two processes are used, the doublings 
being 6 into 1 at each process. The 
speed of front roll at each process 
should be 400 revolutions per minute, 
and the weight of the sliver at the 
finisher drawing should be 70 grains 
per yard. At the slubber this is made 
into .60 hank roving and is put through 
two processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each process for the 50s 
warp being 2.50 at first intermediate, 
and 10 hank at second process. For 
the 30s the hank roving at the first 
intermediate is 2 and at the second 
process 6 hank. Look out for the 
points that have been explained in 
previous articles. At the spinning 
room the roving for warp yarn is spun 
into 50s under the following condi- 
tions: diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 6 inches; twist per 
inch, 31.80; spindle speed, 10,000 rev- 
olutions per minute. The filling yarn 
is mule spun, with 2.75 times the 
square root of count for standard 
twist. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Four per cent naphtamine blue 2 B.; 
25 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 



PINK. 
One-half per cent Erika pink G.; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

SKY BLUE. 

One-half per cent diamine sky blue 
F F.; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per 
cent sal soda. 

PEA GREEN. 

One per cent diamine sky blue; V* 
per cent chrysophenine; 20 per cent 
Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. 

ECRU. 
One-half ounce naphtamine brown 
N; iy 2 ounces naphtamine yellow N 
N; 10 pounds salt; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

YELLOW. 
One per cent direct yellow G cone; 
20 per cent salt; 1 per cent sal soda. 
RED. 
Three and one-half per cent direct 
scarlet B cone; 25 per cent salt; 2 
per cent sal soda. 

BROWN. 
Four per cent naphtamine brown R 
G.; 30 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

GREEN. 
Four per cent diamine green G.; % 
per cent diamine fast yellow B. ; 25 
per cent salt; 3 per cent sal soda. 



BOOK MUSLIN 

Book muslin is a textile term that is 
somewhat of a misnomer, not having 
any connection with fabrics used for 
book coverings. The goods are used 
very extensively for stiffening and 
lining clothing and for the foundatiou 
work of ladies' hats; they are distin- 
guished more by the feel or finish 
than by appearance. They vary in 
appearance from plain weave to small 
checks. Being made more for utility 
than effect, fancy weaves are not call- 
ed for or necessary. One of the 
principal weaves used is a leno, one 
end crossing one. 

An analysis of a book muslin sam- 
ple shows the following data: Finish- 
ed width, 32 inches; 24s yarn in both 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



635 



warp and filling, 54 ends and 45 picks 
per inch. 

The weave is shown in Fig. 1, being 
on 16 ends and 8 picks. The general 
effect is shown by 8 ends and 8 picks, 
the next 8 ends differing only in the 
plain weave being reversed. Fig. 2 

aanannDnnmoMH 
DinBoaaaHaaaHftK 

ni jinnnGBGirjiML 

BaiQBBBBQBGBaDDQ 
DBDBDDDDBDBDBBBB 

BOBGBBBBQBGBGCGD 
DBDBOOL'OBCIBOBBBB 
BGBGBBBBGBQBGLGC 

Fig. 1. 



1 1 1111 1 1 


Fig. 2. 


□BOBDQDDBDBnBBBB 

BDBGSBBBGBdBCDGa 


Fig. 3. 


DIDl 
■ DDI 
DID! 
BO BO 

DID! 

mama 
nmam 
mama 



Fig. 4 

shows the harness draft and Fig. 3, 
the reed draft.' The warp yarns aver- 
age 8 ends in 5 dents, there being 16 
ends in 10 dents per pattern. The 4 
ends working as 1 are drawn through 
one heddle. The chain draft is shown 
at Fig. 4, the working of the first 
two, or selvage, harnesses being 
plain. 

Stop pegs are not required, the 3 
picks in 1 shed coming into contact 
with each other. 

Another book muslin fabric under 
consideration contains the same 
counts of yarns as the other sample. 
The count of this cloth is 43x38, and 
the width 35 inches finished. The 
weave is plain. 

Book muslins are usually woven 
grey and piece dyed in solid colors. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Any of the three classes of weaves 
mentioned may be woven on single 
box, fast, light running looms. The 
sample analyzed would require a dob- 
by loom. The leno and plain weave 
samples could be woven best on cam 
looms. One beam only is required. 

FINISHING. 
Before finishing, the goods feel very 
sleazy. The effect obtained by finsh- 
ing is to change this cloth into a very 



stiff, board-like fabric. Goods for lin- 
ings are sized the least; those for stif- 
fening and millinery purposes are siz- 
ed heavily. 

After being woven, the cloth is 
washed, dyed, dried, sized, dried and 
folded as desired. No burling, singe- 
ing or shearing is required, as perfect 
cloth is not absolutely essential and 
the glue or size, combined with the 
pressing, lays the loose fibres. 

In sizing, the cloth passes through 
the size box and on to the drying cyl- 
inders. If a glazed finish is required, 
it is subjected to pressure by the heat 
ed rollers of the calender machine. 

The sizing substances are usually 
glue, gum, flour and size, of variable 
proportions, mixed with water to the 
desired consistency. The weight of 
size in a piece will vary from about 
5 to 40 per cent of the entire weight. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that make up book mus- 
lin are made in mills of the first and 
second divisions. For this class of fab- 
ric a short-staple medium grade of 
cotton is used. The general staple is 
about one inch. In the better quali- 
ties of this fabric only the raw stock 
is used in the mixture, but the poorer 
qualities contain a certain percentage 
of waste, either comber or card being 
used according to the quality required. 
For this article we will consider that 
the mixture is made up without waste. 

THE MIXING 

for this class of cotton should be as 
large as possible because production 
is looked to more than quality, but the 
quality should be as good as possible. 
The cotton is put through an opener 
and three processes of pickers. The 
speed of the beater of the opener 
should be 1,050 revolutions per minute, 
the fan on this machine making 350 
revolutions per minute. This opener 
is generally directly connected to the 
breaker picker. This picker may be 
provided with either a pin, or, as it is 
sometimes called, a carding beater, or 
a rigid type having either two or three 
blades. If a two-bladed, rigid beater, 
the speed should be 1,500 revolutions 



636 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



per minute; if a three-bladed beater : 
the speed should be reduced to 1,000 
revolutions per minute. The fan speed 
should be 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The draft of this picker should be 
about 1.85. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 

at the front should be, total, 40 
pounds; weight per yard, 16 ounces. 
These laps are put up and doubled 4 
into 1 at the intermediate picker. The 
beater of this picker, if a two-bladed, 
rigid type, makes 1,450 revolutions per 
minute with a fan speed of 1,050 revo- 
lutions per minute and a draft of 2.80. 
The total weight of lap at the front is 
38 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at the finisher picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of 
this beater, if two-bladed, should be 
1,450 revolutions per minute; fan 
speed, 1,100 revolutions per minute; 
draft, 2.80; weight of laps at front, 39 
pounds or a 14^-ounce lap. The 
stock passing through this machine 
with these speeds receives about 41 
blows or beats per inch. At the card 
the speed of the licker-in varies from 
300 to 350 revolutions per minute, ac- 
cording to make of card. The speed 
of flats is 1 revolution every 45 min- 
utes (110 flats). 

THE CARDS 

should be stripped at least three 
times a day and the doffer should be 
stripped an extra time if a very large 
production is being turned off. Use a 
coarse wire fillet for both doffer and 
cylinder for cards on this stock, and 
use settings given for indigo prints 
in a previous article. The draft of 
the card should not exceed 100 for 
this class of goods. The weight of 
the sliver should be 65 grains per 
yard and the production 850 pounds 
for a week of 60 hours. Grind cards 
as previously stated. The card sliver 
is next put through two processes of 
drawing, the doublings being 6 into 
1 at each process. The speed of the 
front roll is 400 revolutions per min- 
ute for leather top rolls and 375 for 
metallic top rolls. Metallic top rolls 
will be found to be an advantage 



on this class of stock, but should be 
looked after to see that they are prop- 
erly set. Generally speaking, metallic 
rolls should be set 3-16ths of an inch 
farther apart than leather top covered 
rolls. If metallic rolls are used, care 
should be taken to see that they are 
the same distance apart their entire 
length, because if they have sprung, 
cut work will be the result. The flutes 
of these rolls should be kept clean and 
the bearings well oiled and clean or 
bad results will be obtained. The 
weight of the sliver at the front of 
both breaker and finisher drawings 
should be 72 grains per yard. Draw- 
ings should be sized four times a day. 
The drawing should be put up to the 
slubber and made into .50 hank rov- 
ing and put through two processes of 

FLY FRAMES. 

At the first intermediate it is made 
into 2 hank roving and at the second 
5 hank. Of course these hank rovings 
will depend a great deal on the way a 
room is balanced and the amount o' 
production to be turned off. Some- 
times two different stocks of the same 
length of staple will be run together 
at the slubber and first intermediate 
frames that are going to be made 
into two different counts of yarn. This 
is often done in rooms where there are 
not enough frames to have each frame 
run a different stock, so that it may be 
necessary to alter the draft and hank 
roving of one or both stocks to the 
best advantage of each. Thus it will 
be seen that the hanks and drafts 
given here may be used as a founda- 
tion from which to work, and used if 
each machine is using this one staple, 
and grade and kind of cotton. The 
roving is taken to the spinning frame 
and made into 24s yarn. At the warp 
frame use a 2-inch diameter ring, 7- 
inch traverse, 23.27 twist per inch and 
9,400 revolutions per minute spindle 
speed. For a filling frame use 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 6% -inch traverse, 
15.9 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 7,600 revolutions per minute. 
A heavy sizing is used for this class 
of goods. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



637 



Dyeing Particulars. 
Dyed on the jig machine. 

BLACK. 
Five per cent oxydiamine black A 
T.; 3 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
salt. 

BROWN. 

Five per cent diamine brown B.; 1 
per cent diamine fast yellow B. ; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 

One and one-half per cent diamine 
black B H.; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- 
low B. ; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per 
cent salt; make up a starch liquor with 
10 ounces dextrine; 1 gallon water; 
mix cold. Add a little color to match 
shade required, and boil well for one 
hour. Starch on mangle and dry on 
the tenter frame. 



MULL 



Mull may be defined as a thin, plain 
woven fabric, of which there are sev- 
eral varieties, as Swiss, India, starch- 
ed, China or silk. The China or silk 
mull is a union fabric, usually with 
cotton warp and silk filling. This is 
the finest fabric of the above-men- 
tioned varieties and is used exclusively 
for dress goods. 

The Swiss and India mulls are fine, 
soft -bleached cotton fabrics, principal- 
ly used for dress goods. 

THE STARCHED MULL 
is somewhat coarser than the Swiss 
or India mull and is used principal- 



amamamam 
mam mama 
amamamam 
mamamama 

amamamam 
mamamama 
amamamam 
mamnmama 

Fig. 1. 

Design. 



□□□□DDD» 
DDaDDDBn 
□dQDOBQa 

oaaaanna 
DDOBanna 

DDBDDDDa 

DBDnaDaa 
■ODQoaaa 

Fig. 2. 

Draft. 



ly for stiffening in various parts of 
a dress, usually dresses of unwashable 
material, and is also used as a founda- 
tion for ladies' silk trimmed hats, cur- 
tains, etc. Starched mull is a plain, 
loosely woven fabric and is stiffened 
in the finishing process by sizing. 

These various qualities of mull dif- 
fer in point of texture considerably 



from one another; the silk mull is in 
point of texture twice as fine as some 
grades of cotton mull. 

The China or silk mull and also the 
cotton mull used for dress purposes 
are characterized by their softness. 
This feature is partially brought about 
by the materials used and partially by 
the finish which the fabric receives. 
The silk mull requires less attention 
in finishing, as the materials used in 
the construction of the fabric, the silk 
filling in particular and the high grade 
of the cotton warp, are in themselves 
conducive to producing a soft fabric. 

In the cheaper grades of cotton mull, 
wherein the coarser counts of yarn 
are used, the warp yarn must first be 
well sized so as to withstand the ten- 
sion and strain incurred during the 
process of weaving. This sizing, 
while it strengthens the warp yarn, 
imparts to the fabric a harsh handle 
or feel, due to the ingredients used in 
the size, which may be wheat, flour, 
farina or sago and a small quantity of 
softening materials, usually tallow or 
wax. The softening materials are 
necessary in order to make the yarn 
pliable; otherwise it would be inclined 
to be too brittle to weave readily. 
After the fabric is woven and ready 
for the finisher, it is subjected to a 

WASHING PROCESS, 

which takes out all the sizing mate- 
rials in the warp yarn, after which 
the fabric is subjected to a combina- 
tion of sizing materials for the sole 
purpose of softening the fabric. The 
above process applies more particular- 
ly to the all -cotton fabrics. 

This class of fabrics — mull — requires 
very little ingenuity on the part of 
the designer to produce, there being 
no ornamental features or fancy 
weaves. The goods are plain woven, 
depending for their beauty or attrac- 
tiveness entirely on the finishing. Mull 
made for dress goods is of fine tex- 
ture, and is finished very soft, while 
the fabric intended for lining or dec- 
orative purposes is much coarser in 
texture than the dress fabric, and is 
stiffened in the finishing and common- 
ly known as starched mull. 



638 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



The goods are usually woven in the 
gray and the bulk of them are nnished 
pure white or bleached, although these 
fabrics may be obtained in almost any 
cclor desired. 

The China or silk mull is usually, 
like the all-cotton fabric, finished un- 
dyed. In the former case, however, 
the cotton yarn is bleached in the 
hank. The silk filling used in this fab- 
ric, is raw silk, viz., tram silk. This is 
so:t and very pliable and lends itself 
readily to the production of a soft fab- 
ric. The filaments of raw silk cannot 
be spun into a thread like wool and 
cotton, as they have no peculiarities 
of surface that correspond to the 
scales on the surface of the wool fi- 
bres; the wool fibres, when spun into 
a thread, are arranged so that these 
scales are opposed to one another as 
much as possible and thereby inter- 
lock and hold fast to one another, and 
the more the threads are spun, the 
closer they engage one another and 
in consequence produce a stronger 
thread. The peculiarities of the cotton 
fibre are its twists. The cotton fibre 
under the microscope appears as a 
thin flat tube or ribbon, considerably 
twsted; these twists in the fibres give 
strength to the thread by interlacing 
with one another somewhat on the 
order of the scales in the woolen 
threads. In silk, however, the filaments 
can only be made into a thread by 
twisting a number of the filaments 
into fine threads, and these threads 
are again twisted until a thread of 
the desired count is obtained. Fol- 
lowing is an 

ANALYSIS 

of a cotton and silk fabric: 

Width of warp in reed, 28% inches; 
width of fabric finished, 27 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 76; ends per 
inch finished, 80; ends in warp, includ- 
ing selvages, 2,200; reed, 1,400x2; 
warp yarn, l-60s cotton. 

Filling, one dram silk, tram; 54 
picks. 

ANALYSIS OF STARCHED MULL. 

Width of warp in reed, 33 % inches; 
width of fabric finished, 30 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 36; ends per 



inch finished, 40; ends in warp includ- 
ing selvage, 1,220; reed, 1,300x1; 
warp l-50s cotton. 

Filling, l-54s cotton; 36 picks. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

Any ordinary single box loom may 
be used for weaving this fabric. The 
speed of the loom is the most impor- 
tant consideration if the selection of 
loom be optional; the finer grades of 
mull are usually woven on eight har- 
nesses, straight draft, while the coars- 
er grades are confined to four har- 
nesses, drawn in the following order: 
1, 3, 2, 4. 

FINISHING. 

Mull made for dress goods is of a 
very fine texture and softened in the 
finishing. This is accomplished by 
immersing the fabric in a solution of 
oily matters, the ingredients being 
composed of a liberal percentage of 
glycerine or cocoanut oil and a very 
small quantity of farina. Chloride of 
magnesium may be used with good re- 
sults. This is a very powerful soft- 
ener, as well as a weighting material, 
and has a great affinity for water, and 
has the power of attracting moisture 
to the cloth in which it is used. This 
attraction of moisture really constitut- 
es the softening effect. The above 
method of softening applies in partic- 
ular to all-cotton mull. In the silk 
filling goods the fabric is usually only 
boiled off, then run through a rotary 
press. 

For stiffening the fabric, the 
goods, after they are bleached, are im- 
mersed in a solution of size composed 
of flour, tallow, and gum arabic; this 
stiffening is done in front of the dry- 
ing cylinders, the goods running 
through the sizing trough on to the 
cylinders, which completes the finish- 
ing. 



Bleaching Particulars. 

Boil with 4 degrees Tw. caustic 
soda in a kier for 12 hours, and run 
through washing machine. 

Give a second boil with 4 degrees 
Tw. caustic soda. 

Wash through machine and run 
through solution of chloride of lime at 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



639 



y 2 degree Tw. Place in bin for two 
hours. Pass through a solution of sul- 
phuric acid % degree Tw. Pass 
through washing machine till all 
trace of acid is eliminated. 

Starching Particulars. 

One gallon: 4 ounces dextrine, 4 
ounces cornstarch. Boil for one hour 
and starch through mangle. 

Dry on the tenter frame. 



LINON 



Linon, usually termed India linon 
or India linen, is a fine, closely woven 
plain fabric well known for its excel- 
lent wearing and washing qualities. It 
is made from combed cotton yarns of 
long-staple stock. 

It is made in various widths, from 
27 to 36 inches, and in slightly 
varying constructions and qualities. 
The goods are made to resemble as 
closely as possible fine linen fabrics. 
The cloth structure is firmly made in 
the loom. 

The analysis of a good quality India 
linon fabric shows the following data: 
Ends per inch, 108; picks per inch, 
110; finished width, 36 inches; warp, 
90s; filling, 110s. Each selvage con- 
sists of 16 ends of 2-90s. 

The yarns were reeded 2 ends per 
dent in the loom. The selvages were 
also reeded 2 ends per dent, i. e., 2 -ply 
yarns. Two of these would be equal to 
4 of the single yarns. 

Woven with about 94 ends per Inch 
in the loom, it will be seen that a very 
fine reed has been used. This was nec- 
essary in order that an even surface, 
practically free from reed marks, 
should result. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

The goods may be woven on a single 
box plain loom of not too light con- 
struction. On account of the fairly 
large number of picks per inch and 
the fine quality of cloth, a firm, steady 
take-up motion on the loom is neces- 
sary. 

The ends are drawn in in the regu- 
lar 1, 3, 2, 4 skip shaft order, on 
twine harnesses. One warp beam only 



is required. Practically all fabrics 
usually woven on cam looms may also 
be woven on dobby looms, if neces- 
sary. 

To weave the fabric under consid- 
eration, on a dobby loom, the ends 
should be drawn in straight on at least 
8 harnesses to prevent overcrowding 
of the heddles. 

FINISHING. 
A good finish for these goods is to 
singe, wash, bleach, size or starch 
with a light Indian corn or potato 
starch, the former material being pref- 
erable; then calender, dry and make 
up as required. A second dampening 
and calendering, following the first 
calendering, improves the quality of 
the finish. Very little stiffening or 
starch is used because the goods ar<* 
intended to be washed frequently. 
When finished, the goods have the 
appearance of a smooth linen finished 
lawn. They are slightly glossy. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The division of mills that make the 
yarns that India linon is composed 
of is the third. This division of mills, 
as given in a previous article, is the 
one that makes the finest yarns and 
is equipped with machinery suitable 
to do this. India linon is made from 
a good quality of Sea Island cotton of 
about iy 2 to 1% inch staple. For this 
class of goods it is quality and not 
quantity that is the main considera- 
tion. The cotton is mixed as has been 
described in previous articles, the 
good sliver being mixed in at this 
point, as well as laps that are too 
light and cut sliver waste, if any is 
made at any of the processes. Some 
overseers put cut sliver through the 
last process again, and let it go at 
that, but the only proper method to 
remedy this kind of work is to put it 
back into the mixing. 

FOR THIS FABRIC 
the cotton is put through two proc- 
esses of pickers, and an opener. The 
opener should be kept as full as possi- 
ble so that as even a feed as possible 
will be obtained. The breaker picker 
is generally equipped with a two- 



640 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



bladed, rigid type of beater, the speed 
of which is 1,200 revolutions per min- 
ute. Some overseers prefer a pin beat- 
er, but others claim that it puts neps 
into long -staple cotton. This is un- 
doubtedly due to improper setting as 
well as not running it at the proper 
speed. The weight of the lap at the 
front of this picker is 32 pounds or a 
9%-ounce lap. These laps are doubled 
4 into 1 at the finisher picker. This 
picker has a two-bladed beater, whose 
speed is 1,050 revolutions per minute, 
or about 29 beats per minute. The 
speed of this beater should be just 
high enough to get the dirt out of the 
cotton and not injure it. The total 
weight of the lap at the front of the 
picker is 30 pounds or a 9% -ounce lap. 
A variation of 6 ounces either side of 
standard is allowed ; if laps weigh out- 
side of this they are either put 
through the finisher picker again or 
if a great deal too light or too heavy 
they are put back into the mixing 
again. These laps are put up at tne 
card. The cards used for this stock 
should be kept free of all dirt, etc., 
and the card fillet should be kept 
sharp and parts properly set to each 
other. The flats should make 

ONE COMPLETE REVOLUTION 

every 35 minutes, the licker-in speed 
should not exceed 280 revolutions per 
minute, and the weight of the sliver at 
the front should be 40 grains per yard. 
It is an important point that the cards 
should be kept extra clean. The pro- 
duction of a card for a week of 60 
hours should not exceed 275 pounds. 
The draft should be not less than 130. 
After passing through the cards, the 
sliver is generally put through sliver 
lap, ribbon lap and comber processes. 
At the sliver lap the doublings for an 
8%-inch lap are 14 into 1. The weight 
of a yard of lap at the front of this ma- 
chine is 220 grains. These laps are put 
up at the ribbon lap machine and 
doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a 
yard of sliver at the front of this ma- 
chine is 210 grains. These are put up 
at the comber and doubled 6 into 1 if a 
six-head comber, or 2 into 1, if comb- 
er is an eight-head comber. Set and 
time the comber for this stock the 



same as given in a previous article on 
Sea Island cotton. Keep all parts 
of comber that the cotton comes in 
contact with well polished and free 
from dirt. If more than one end 
breaks on the table the sliver at the 
front should be broken before entering 
the coiler and the broken ends pieced 
up before the sliver is allowed to en- 
ter can. If any single has entered the 
can, it should of course be removed 
and the end properly pieced again; be 
sure and make a good piecing, not one 
that will break back at the succeeding 
process or one that will not draw out. 
The sliver is then put through three 
processes of drawing, the doublings of 
which are all 6 into 1. The weight of 
the drawing at the front of the finish- 
er drawing should be 65 grains per 
yard. For 

THIS CLASS OF WORK 

leather top rolls are generally used. 
These should be kept well oiled and 
varnished and in perfect order. The 
drawings should be sized four times 
a day and the ribbon lap at least once 
a day. Look out to see that your stop- 
motions are all in perfect order and 
working. Be sure that there are no 
laps on the third bottom steel roll or 
in fact on any roll, as this will tend to 
produce cut sliver as well as throw 
the size out. Keep drawing on heavy 
size of standard weight. This sliver is 
next put up at the slubber and drawn 
into .80 hank roving. The bottom steel 
rolls should be a little larger in diam- 
eter than when used for shorter staple. 
This is in order to prevent licking. 
The clearers on the slubber should be 
picked frequently and not allowed to 
collect until they drop down and pass 
into the work. The hank roving at the 
fly frame is as follows: for filling first 
intermediate, 2.25 hank; second inter- 
mediate, 5 hank; fine, 20 hank; for 
warp yarn, first intermediate, 2.25 
hank; second, 5 hank, and fine, 18 
hank; for the selvage yarn use the 
same hank roving as for the warp 
yarn. On this grade of stock the 
slubber rolls should be varnished and 
some overseers varnish the front rolls 
of their first intermediate frame. The 
leather top rolls should be in per- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



641 



feet condition and special care 
should be given to the rail or 
carriage and the parts that op- 
erate it to see that they change 
sharply and that there is no dwell at 
the top and bottom of the bobbin, for 
this may cause it to run over or under 
and make a bad bobbin, or if this 
does not happen, it will break back ai 
the spinning frame or mule every time 
it gets to the top or bottom of the bob - 
bin, thus causing a lot of trouble, be- 
sides the liability of singles, which 
should be looked out for at all proc- 
esses. Full bobbins should never be 
thrown into the boxes, but should be 
packed. The roving for filling may be 
taken to either the mule or spinning 
room; if the latter, use a frame hav- 
ing a 5-inch traverse, l^-inch diam- 
ter ring and a spindle speed of 7,400 
revolutions per minute. This yarn is 
then conditioned, then it is ready to 
use. The warp yarn is frame spun 
on a frame having a 2%-inch diameter 
ring; 5 -inch traverse, and a spindle 
speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. 
This yarn is put through the spooler 
and warping processes and from here 
to the slasher, where sufficient beams 
are put up at the back to give the 
required number of ends at the front. 
For this class of goods the following 
size mixture may be used: Water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; tal- 
low, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 
pounds; white soap, 2 pounds; boil 
two hours and let stand ten hours. 
Before using, keep agitator running, 
and keep size at almost boiling point. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
PINK. 
Two ounces diamine fast scarlet 4 
B.; % pound sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

PEARL. 

Two ounces thion violet black A.; 3 
ounces thion black T B C; 1 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUB. 

Ten per cent immedial indone B B.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 



LIGHT BLUE. 
Five per cent immedial sky blue F.; 
5 per cent sulphide soda; 1 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
Four ounces thion brown G.; 1 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

SAGE GREEN. 
One per cent thion green G.; V 2 per 
cent thion yellow G.; 1V 2 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 
per cent salt. 

BROWN. 
Eight per cent tbion brown G. ; 2 per 
cent tbion brown O.; 10 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 
per cent Glauber's. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
Two per cent thion yellow G.; 6 per 
cent thion green G.; 8 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 
per cent Glauber's salt. 
SLATE. 
Four ounces thion black TR.;^ per 
cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 15 per cent Glauber's salt. 
*-*-* 

TAFFETA SILK LINING OR 
TAFFETINE 

This is a fabric made with a silk 
warp, cotton, linen or wild silk filling. 
Taffetine is a term variously used at 
different times; specifically it is a fine, 
glossy, closely woven, uncorded and 
untwilled fabric, used entirely for 
ladies' wear in the form of a lining, 
underskirts, etc. Taffetine derives its 
name from the more costly fabric 
taffeta. This fabric is of 

QUITE ANCIENT ORIGIN, 

being in use as early as the 16th cen- 
tury as a dress fabric for both men 
and women. Taffeta of the 16th cen- 
tury was a thick, costly fabric, made 
with silk and wool. In the 17th cen- 
tury the fabric was defined as a soft, 
thin fabric. In the transition the( 
goods have undergone a complete 
change of texture and in the 18th cen: 



642 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



tury taffeta was a very lustrous silk 
fabric, sometimes checked or flowered 
or striped with gold and silver. 

The taffetine under consideration is 
a fine, plain-woven fabric with warp 
threads per inch greatly in excess of 
filling threads per inch and the warp 
of a much finer count than the filling. 

THE FINEST QUALITIES 
of fabrics are made on this basis. The 
warp yarn for these goods is inva- 
riably raw silk, technically known as 
organzine or thrown silk, and the fill- 
ing may be cotton, linen or artificial 
silk. 

The raw silk used for filling in silk 
fabrics is technically known as tram 
silk. This is similar to the organzine; 
the difference lies in the twisting of 
the filaments. These filaments are put 
together very loosely with 

LITTLE OR NO TWIST; 
consequently, they are not as strong 
as the more firmly twisted fibres, but 
sufficiently strong to answer as filling. 

When the filaments cannot be drawn 
from the cocoon in one continuous 
thread, due generally to the cocoon 
being damaged by the worm in eating 
its way out, these cocoons are torn up 
and the filaments are combed and laid 
parallel to one another, and the thread 
made from the damaged cocoons is 
known as spun silk. 

The spun silk is not as smooth or 
as fine as the raw silk thread, although 
some of the fibres are of considerable 
length and strong enough to be used 
for warp threads. Spun silk is cal- 
culated by the weight on same basis 
as cotton, namely, 840 yards to 1 hank, 
or, 840 yards of No. Is equal one 
pound. Raw silk is calculated as to 
the size of thread, on the hanks in 
drams avoirdupois; thus, if one hank 
weighs 1 dram, it is known as 1 dram 
silk, or 256,000 yards equal 1 pound. 

During recent years there has been 
a tendency among manufacturers us- 
ing silk to designate the size by the 
denier method. Raw silk generally is 
designated by this method when it is 
first purchased In the skein form and 
in order to avoid confusion many are 
using the same method when the 
silk has been thrown or spun. In 



this method the basis is the weight 
of 450 meters (about 500 yards) when 
weighed by a unit of 5 centigrams 
(about 7% grains). This gives a 
yardage per pound for a number 1 
denier of 4,464,538. In order to find 
the denier size, if the yards per pound 
are known, it is only necessary to 
divide the standard number of yards 
by the yards per pound in the size 
considered. If the denier size be 
known it is only necessary to divide 
the size into the standard number of 
yards to obtain the yardage per pound. 
Of course, there is a certain amount 
of allowance usually made in the yard- 
age because of silk variation or for 
the take-up in the throwing process : 
etc, but the foregoing is the basis up- 
on which estimates are made. Cot- 
ton manufacturers more than woolen 
manufacturers are becoming accus- 
tomed to raw silk sizing upon the 
basis mentioned. Woolen manu- 
facturers are more accustomed to use 
the dram silk sizing. 

THE FILLING 
for these fabrics is either cotton, lin- 
en or wild silk. Linen filling is used 
in the best grades of taffetine; linen 
yarn is prepared similarly to worsted 
thread, notwithstanding that linen is 
a vegetable fibre. The raw flax is first 
beaten or crushed in order to make it 
pliable; then it is combed, or passes 
through the process technically 
known as scutching. Flax fibres must 
be of a certain length in order to work 
properly. If too long, they are 
broken in a machine called a saw. 
After the fibres are combed they are 
carded and the long fibres are spun in 
to linen yarn, while the short fibres 
are converted into what is known as 
tow yarn. Taffetine is sold in both 
narrow and wide widths. The nar- 
row fabric is usually about 19 inches 
wide. This narrow fabric is common- 
ly 

WOVEN DOUBLE WIDTH, 

then cut in two after the fabric is 
woven. 

In order that the ends may not fray 
out after the fabric is cut, the goods 
are made with a fast center selvage, 
In warping, extra ends are allowed 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



643 



Just as in an ordinary outside sel- 
vage. In the center of the warp, 
these ends are reeded double, as is the 
common practice for reeding selvages, 
leaving one or more dents empty 
where the fabric is to be cut. 

Fast center selvages are extensive- 
ly used in the manufacture of ribbons, 
scarfs, cheaper grades of cassimeres 
and, in fact, any fabric characterized 
by its narrowness. 

The fast center selvage consists of 
crossing one thread over two or more 
threads, similarly to the douping of 
threads in leno weaving. 

See diagram, Fig. 1. 

The douping or crossing of threads 
is effected by an attachment on the 



center selvages, 80; equals total of 
4,080 ends in warp. 

Take-up during weaving, 10 per 
cent; warp, 1*4 dram organzine silk. 
Filling, l-50s combed and gassed 
cotton; 88 picks per inch. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Plain woven silk warp fabrics may 
be woven on any light, smooth-running 
loom. The essential consideration is 
the heddles. For this class of fabrics 
the French string heddles are consid- 
ered the best, as they are less liable to 
break or chafe the warp during the 
process of weaving in comparison with 
the ordinary wire heddle. 
FINISHING. 

The goods require little in the way 




Fig. 1. 
Dotted line indicates where fabric is to be cut. 



back of the loom, directly in the cen- 
ter of the loom if but two pieces are 
to be woven; the threads that are 
crossed rest stationary in the attach- 
ment, while the crossing threads cross 
over from one side to the other at each 
pick or every two picks as may be de- 
sired. The crossing thread and the 
threads over which it crosses must be 
reeded in the same dent, as in leno 
weaving. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 40 inches, 
double width; width of fabric finished, 
19 inches, single width; ends per inch 
finished, 106; ends per inch in reed, 
100. 

Reed, 50x2; ends in warp, double 
width, 3,920; outside selvages, 80; 



of finishing. After the fabric is dyed 
it is slightly stiffened by immersing in 
a light solution of size. The stiffen- 
ing and the materials used in the con- 
struction of the fabric produce a crisp 
and rustling effect. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Taffetine is composed of yarns made 
in the second division of mills as given 
in a previous article. These mills are 
equipped with combers. The warp 
yarn of the fabric under description 
is silk and the filling yarn is cotton. 
For this class of fabric two kinds of 
raw stock may be used, either a medi- 
um staple Sea Island cotton, or an 
Egyptian cotton. We will assume that 
an Egyptian cotton of good grade and 



§44 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of 1%-inch staple is used. As Egyptian 
cotton is 

MORE EASILY WORKED 
than American cotton, the speeds at 
which the different machines are run 
are higher, as will be noted by com- 
paring this article with some of the 
other articles in which an American 
cotton of the same grade and length 
of staple has been described. Egyp- 
tian bales of cotton are baled better 
and compressed more tightly than 
American bales, the average weight 
being 800 pounds, instead of 500 
pounds, as compared with the Ameri- 
can bales. The cotton should be al- 
lowed to stand in the bins a little 
longer than the American bales, so as 
to allow the cotton to expand. The 
good waste from the machines up to 
the slubber is put into the mixing. The 
cotton is then passed through either 
two or three processes of 

PICKING 
and an opener. Keep the opener well 
filled with raw stock so that as even 
a feed as possible may be obtained. 
The speed of the beater at the breaker 
picker is 1,500 revolutions per minute 
and the total weight of the lap at the 
front is 40 pounds or a 20-ounce lap. 
These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the 
intermediate picker. The speed of this 
beater is 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the front 
is 37% pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The 
doublings at the finisher picker are 4 
into 1, the speed of the picker being 
1,450 revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of a lap at the front of the 
picker is 35 pounds or a 12% -ounce 
lap. These laps are put up at the card. 
The licker-in speed is 350 revolutions 
per minute. The flats make one com- 
plete revolution every 30 minutes, and 
the cylinder 160 revolutions per min- 
ute. The draft of the card for this 
class of goods is 135. The sliver at the 
front weighs 45 grains per yard and 
the production for a week of 60 hours 
is 550 pounds. Use the same 

SETTINGS AT THE CARD 
as have been previously given for 1%- 
inch staple American cotton. The 
grinding and stripping times are also 



the same. The sliver is fiext put 
through a sliver lap machine, when it 
is doubled 14 into 1 for an 8% -inch 
lap. The draft of this machine is 
about 2. The bottom steel rolls are 
spread as follows for this staple of 
cotton: Front to middle, 1% inches; 
middle to back, l 7 / 8 inches. The weight 
of a yard of lap at the front is 295 
grains. These laps are doubled 6 in- 
to 1 at the 

RIBBON LAP MACHINE. 
The bottom steel rolls of this ma- 
chine are spread as follows: Front to 
second, 1% inches; second to third, 
1% inches; third to back, 1% inches. 
The weight of a yard of lap at the 
front of this machine is 275 grains. A 
size of the lap at this machine should 
be taken once a day. A variation of 2 
grains either side of the standard is 
allowed before changing the draft 
gear. These laps are put up at the 
comber and doubled according to the 
number of heads that the comber con- 
tains — generally 6 or 8. If a six-head 
comber is used, six laps would be put 
up at the back. The percentage of 
waste taken out for this stock is 18. 
The settings of the draw box rolls are: 
Front to middle, 1 7-16 inches; middle 
to back, 1% inches. The speed of the 
comber is 90 nips per minute. The 
timings and settings are the same as 
given in a previous article. The per- 
centages of the combers should be tak- 
en regularly, the general method being 
to take so many combers a day. Keep 
needles in good condition and straight 
and free from waste. See that the 
half-lap needles are in good condition, 
and that the timings and settings are 
as they should be. About two comb- 
ers a week should be scoured by a 
comber man and his helper. The 
weight of a yard of sliver at the coiler 
of this machine is 40 grains. This 
sliver is next put through two proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 
the doubling being either 6 ends up at 
both processes or, as is often done, 8 
ends up at the breaker and 6 ends at 
the finisher. The weight per yard of 
the sliver at the finisher drawing is 
74 grains. The top rolls used may 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



645 



be either metallic or leather. The set- 
tings of the rolls are as follows: Front 
to second, iy 2 inches; second to third, 
1| inches and third to back, 11 inches. 
This setting is for leather rolls. 
If metallic rolls are used, set y& of an 
inch wider. Size at the drawing frame 
four times a day. At the slubber the 
sliver is drawn into .50 hank roving, 
after which it is put through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing at each process being as follows: 
First intermediate, 1.25; second inter- 
mediate, 3; and fine frame, 10 hank. 
This cotton requires 1 tooth more 
twist than American cotton for the 
same hank roving. Set the jack frame 
bottom steel rolls as follows: Front 
to middle, 1 7-16 inches, and middle 
to back, iy 2 inches. Size 10 hank 
roving once a day. Watch the usual 
points at the speeders that have been 
already pointed out in previous arti- 
cles. 

THE FILLING 

is either mule or frame spun, general- 
ly mules being used for this class of 
goods. It frame spun, the require- 
ments of a frame are as follows: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, l 1 ^ inches; length of traverse, 
oy 2 inches; speed of spindles, 8,200 
revolutions per minute. The yarn is 
then run over or through a gas flame 
to take off all fuzz and give it a lus- 
ter. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The dyeing of goods composed of 
silk and cotton is generally done in 
open vats provided with a winch, in 
some cases also on a jigger if the ma- 
terial to be dyed requires it. Colors 
which dye silk and cotton are used, 
dyeing first with the substantive color, 
with soap and phosphate of soda, or 
common salt and a little sal soda. 
Should the silk require colors to be 
made a little brighter, acid colors are 
used in a bath of soap and acetic 
acid, or a basic color is dyed in a 
soap bath with acetic acid, the color 
dyeing both the cotton and silk a 
brighter shade. For pale shades: 10 
gallons liquor; 5 ounces soap; % 



ounce sal soda; 3 ounces phosphate 
soda. For heavy shades: 10 gallons 
liquor; 6 ounces soap; % ounce sal 
soda; 6 ounces phosphate soda; 10 
ounces Glauber's salt. The tempera- 
ture of the dye-bath is generally about 
195 degrees F. After dyeing, the pieces 
must be well rinsed, and raised with 
acetic acid, in cold water: 10 gallons 
water; \y 2 pints acetic acid. 

BLACK. 

Eight per cent union black S.; 1 per 
cent diamine fast yellow A.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 2 
per cent soap. Top with alizarine 
black 4 B. 

SEA GREEN. 

One-half per cent diamine black H 
W.; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B.; 
topped with new methylene blue N.; 
new phosphine G. 

For 10 gallons dye-liquor: 6 ounces 
soap; y 2 ounce sal soda; 3 ounces 
phosphate soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent diamine dark blue 
B.; 1 per cent diamine brilliant blue 
G.; topped with new methylene blue 
N X.; metaphenylene blue B.; indigo 
blue N. 

PEARL. 
Two ounces diamine gray G.; 1-16 
ounce diamine brown M.; topped with 
aniline gray B. 

SLATE. 
Ten ounces diamine gray G.; % 
ounce diamine brown M.; topped with 
cyanol extra, orange extra. 
LIGHT MAUVE. 
One ounce diamine violet N.; ^ 
ounce diamine brilliant blue G.; top- 
ped with methyl violet B 1. 

VIOLET. 
One per cent diamine violet N.; ifa 
per cent diamine brilliant blue G.; 
topped with methyl violet B 1. 
PINK. 
Two per cent diamine rose B D.; 
topped with rhodamine G. 
RED. 
Three per cent diamine fast red F.; 
topped with safranine S 150; acid vi- 
olet 4 R S. 



646 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



SKY BLUE. 
Four ounces diamine sky blue F F. ; 
topped with cyanol extra. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One per cent diamine brown B.; *£ 
per cent diamine yellow B.; topped 
with Bismarck brown F F.; thioflavine 
T. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 

Two per cent diamine black H W.; 2 
per cent diamine green B.; 1 per cent 
diamine fast yellow B.; topped with 
brilliant green; new methylene blue 
N. 

SCARLET. 

Three per cent diamine fast scarlet 
G B.; y 2 per cent diamine orange D 
C; topped with safranine G G S.; tan- 
nine orange R. 

13 (sq. in.) x 7,000 (grs. per lb.) 



excellent wearing and washing quali- 
ties. 

The usual widths are from 32 inches 
to 36 inches. 

They are made in different grades. 
Retail prices for some are 12 and 15 
cents for the 32 -inch width, 23 cents, 
27 cents, 32 cents and 38 cents for the 
36-inch width. 

A typical fabric, weighing about 8% 
square yards per pound, is constructed 
as follows: 124 ends per inch, 120 picks 
per inch, 36 inches wide, finished. 

CALCULATIONS. 

Thirteen square inches of the cloth 
under consideration weigh 8 grains 
To find the number of yards per 
pound: 

= 8.777 yards per pound. 



8 (grs.) x 36 (cloth width) x 36 (Inches per yard) 

CREAM. To find the average number or 

One-quarter ounce diamine gold; % count of yarn in the cloth: 

124 (ends per inch) + 120 (picks per inch) = 244. 
244 x 8.777 (yds. per lb.) x 36 in. 



= 100 average number. 



764 (10% allowed for contraction and size 764 used instead of 840) 

ANOTHER METHOD 



ounce diamine orange B.; 1-16 ounce 
diamine fast yellow B. 

STEEL. 
One-eighth ounce diamine gray G.; 
topped with cyanol extra; aniline gray 
B. 



VICTORIA LAWN 

Victoria lawn is a fabric resembling 
to a great extent a fabric previously 
explained, linon. It is usually made 
with slightly heavier yarn in the warp 
and contains a greater number of ends 
and picks per inch. It is very firmly 
woven. 

It is especially used for aprons and 
ladies' heavy undergarments, having 



of finding the average number, without 
taking into consideration the number 
of yards per pound, is as follows: 

Mutiply the sum of the sley and 
pick by the number of square inches 
weighed and by .254 and divide by the 
weight in grains. 

This is a simpler method, as will be 
seen by comparing the number of fig- 
ures that have to be used in the two 
methods: 

244 x 13 x .254 



= 100 average number. 



.254 in the above example is a con- 
stant obtained by dividing 7,000 
(grains) by 36 (inches) and by 764 
(yards per hank). The latter is used 
instead of 840, allowing 10 per cent. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



647 



The counts of the yarns are: warp, 
85s; filling, 130s. 

The weight of the warp yarns may 
be obtained as follows: 124 (ends per 
inch) times 36 inches (finished width) 
equals 4,464. 4,464 plus 40 for selvages 
equals 4,504, total number of ends in 
warp. 



After a bleaching process, the pieces 
are given a very good starching with 
4 ounces of German white dextrine to 
a gallon of water, boiled for one hour, 
and starched through a mangle, and 
dried over a tenter frame, care being 
taken to have the goods perfectly 
straight. 



4,504x105 (length of warp) 



85 (counts of warp) x 840 

6.623 plus 5 per cent for size equals 
6.954 pounds, weight of warp and size. 

To find weight of filling: 120 (picks 
per inch) times 40 inches (width in 
reed) equals 4,800 yards of filling in 
one yard of cloth. 



= 6.623 lbs. of warp in 100 yards of cloth. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn of which Victo- 
ria lawn is composed are made in the 
second and third divisions of mills as 
given in a previous article. The counts 
of yarn of which the sample under de- 



4,800 x 100 (cloth length) 
130 (filling counts) x 840 



6.954 lbs. warp and size. 
4.392 lbs. filling. 



11.346 lbs., weight of 100 yard piece. 
100 -*- 11.346 = 8.8 yards per pound. 



The fabric under consideration, if 
woven on a dobby loom, could be wo- 
ven on about 8 harnesses, straight 
draw, the ends in the body of the cloth 
being reeded 4 in a dent. The selvage 
ends work 2 as 1, 2 doubles in 1 dent. 
The weave is plain throughout. A 12- 
harness straight draw, the ends reed- 
ed 3 in a dent, could be substituted. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

The remarks made in connection 
with the preceding article, linon, also 
apply here. A single box cam loom, 
firmly made, one beam, is the best to 
use. Dobby looms, although capable 
of weaving goods of this class, are not 
usually run at as high a rate of speed 
as cam looms. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing process includes singe- 
ing, washing, bleaching, very light 
starching, drying and pressing, or cal- 
endering. 



4.392 lbs. of filling in 100 yards of cloth. 

scription is made are 85s warp and 
130s filling. Both warp and filling 
yarns are combed. The cotton used 
for the filling yarn is 1 1-inch staple 
Sea Island stock and that used for the 
warp is either a long- staple peeler or 
a 1%-inch Sea Island. We will assume 
that both yarns are made from Sea 
Island stock. The cotton would first 
be opened, as has been previously ex- 
plained, and put through an opener, 
and either one or two processes of 
picking, generally two processes be- 
ing used; but it is the opinion of a 
great many carders that 



ONE PROCESS IS BETTER 

because of the fact that the more pick- 
ing this cotton is given, the more neps 
are liable to be put in. The mixing 
is generally done by hand and not by 
machine, for the same reason. The 
cotton should be passed through the 
opener in the usual manner and 
should pass on to the lattice apron of 
the breaker picker, if two processes 
are used, and from here passed 



648 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



through the feed rolls and to the ac- 
tion of the beater. This beater is gen- 
erally of the two-bladed, or armed, 
type, and for this cotton there should 
only be made sufficient revolutions 
per minute to take out the dirt. The 
speed of the beater is 1,150 revolu- 
tions per minute, if two processes of 
picking are used. The weight of the 
lap at the front of this picker is 32 
pounds, or a 10-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the 
finisher picker, the speed of the beat- 
er being 950 revolutions per minute. 
The beats per minute for this stock 
are 29. The total weight of the lap 
at the front is 28 pounds or a 9%- 
ounce lap to the yard for the 11-inch 
stock and a 10%-ounce lap for the 1 fl- 
inch stock. A variation of *4 pound is 
allowed either side of standard for 
1%-inch stock and y 2 pound for 1%- 
inch stock. It is understood that 
every lap must be weighed. The lap 
is next put up 

AT THE CARD 
and the draft for the longer staple 
should not be less than 150 and for 
the shorter staple 135. The flats 
should make one revolution every 35 
minutes and the speed of the beater 
should be reduced to 275 revolutions 
per minute for the same reason as 
given for the reduction of the speed of 
the beater of the picker. The counts 
of the wire used for the fillet should 
be 35s for cylinder and 37s for doffer 
and top flats. Special care should be 
given to the setting and grinding of 
the fillet for these cards, the wire be- 
ing always kept sharp. Use the same 
settings as given in a previous article 
for this same grade of stock. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 
should be about 35 grains per yard for 
the 1%-inch stock and 32 for the 1|- 
inch stock. The production is 250 
pounds per week of 60 hours for lf- 
inch stock and 275 to 325 pounds for 
1%-inch stock. Both card slivers are 
taken to the sliver lap machines and 
doubled 14 into 1 for an 81-inch lap. 
The weight of a yard of sliver lap at 
this machine is 220 grains. These 
laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon 
lap machine, the weight of the lap be- 



ing 210 grains per yard for both 
stocks. The laps of the ribbon lap and 
sliver lap machines should be weighed 
once a day and the weights changed 
at the ribbon lap machine to keep the 
laps at standard weight. The laps are 
next put up 

AT THE COMBER 
and doubled either 6 or 8 Into 1, ac- 
cording to the number of heads that 
the comber contains. The setting and 
timing of the comber for this stock 
have been previously given. The draw 
box rolls should be set from the 1|- 
inch stock as follows. Front to mid- 
dle, 1 1-16 inches, middle to back, 1% 
inches. It sometimes happens that the 
draw box will not allow the rolls to 
be spread this distance, and about the 
only method to overcome this defect 
in this machine, as well as in other 
machines where a like difficulty oc- 
curs, is to reduce the draft between 
the middle and back rolls so that the 
speed of the rolls will be equal, and 
set rolls just to staple, which will 
avoid breaking the cotton; but this 
has the fault of bringing all the draft 
between the middle and front rolls. 
The weight of the sliver at the comb- 
er for this stock is 35 grains per yard 
for both stocks. The percentage of 
waste taken out for the 11-inch staple 
is 25 per cent and for the 1% staple 
is 22 per cent. This sliver is next put 
through two processes of 

DRAWING. 
These drawings should be equipped 
with leather top rolls, and especial 
care should be given to the leather top 
rolls of the sliver lap, ribbon lap, 
comber and drawing frame machines. 
The leather detaching rolls of the 
comber require a somewhat rougher 
varnished roll than the others, the 
leather rolls used for the other ma- 
chines having a smooth, glossy finish. 
The varnish used for all the rolls 
should be that which will prevent all 
licking. The weight of the sliver at 
the finisher drawing should be 60 
grains per yard for both stocks, the 
doublings at each process being 6 into 
1. At the slubber this is made into .80 
hank roving. The front top rolls 
should be of a larger diameter than 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



649 



those used for shorter staples and 
should be varnished with a varnish 
which will give them a smooth, 
glossy finish. The settings should be 
IS inches from front to middle and 
1% inches from middle to back. The 
slubber roving is then put through 
three processes of fly frames and made 
into 18 hank roving for 1^-inch stock, 
the hank roving at each process being 
as follows: 1st intermediate, 2.25 
hank; 2d, 5 hank; and fine 18 hank. 
Sometimes the front rolls of the 1st 
intermediate fly frame are varnished. 
This yarn is next put through 

THE SPINNING FRAME 
and made into 85s on a frame having 
a 5-inch traverse, 1%-inch diameter 
ring and a spindle speed of 9,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. From here it is 
spooled and warped and put through 
a slasher. The roving for the filling 
yarn is put through three processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving at each 

A small piece 4 In. x 3 In. weighs 15.7 grs. 
12 (sq. in.) x 7,000 (grains) 



ORIGIN. 
The goods are said to have originat- 
ed at Biaz, a place in the central part 
of Asia, and to be still manufactured 
there for home use and for export to 
Russia. The goods bearing this name 
are better known in America as "linen 
finish suitings," and are principally 
used for ladies' summer suitings. The 
eastern goods are more heavily filled 
with foreign matter than ours and are 
used for various purposes. 

ANALYSIS. 
The analysis of a typical biaz fabric 
shows the following data: Ends per 
inch, 56; picks per inch, 44; finished 
width, 32.5 inches; weight, 4.57 yards 
per pound; warp, 19s; filling, 20s; the 
ends were reeded 2 in each dent. The 
weight would probably be considered 
4% yards per pound. 

CALCULATIONS. 
To find number of yards per pound: 



12 sq. inches. 
= 4.57 yards 



per pound. 



15.7 (grains) x 32.5 (width) x 36 (Inches per yard) 

process being as follows: 1st, 2.25 To find average counts of yarn in 

hank; second, 7.75 hank, and fine, 24 the cloth: 



56 ends + 44 picks = 100. 

100 x 32.5 (width) x 4.57 (yds. per lb.) 

764 
100 x 12 (sq. in.) x .254 (constant) 



15.7 (grains) 

hank. This is mule spun into 130s 
and from here is taken to the condi- 
tioning room. 

+ *» 

BIAZ, OR LINEN FINISH 
SUITING 

Biaz is a medium-grade cotton fab- 
ric resembling linen in appearance. 
This effect is usually obtained on or- 
dinary cotton yarns in the finishing 
process, or in somewhat easier form, 
by using mercerized yarns or mercer- 
izing the fabric in the piece. They are 
usually shown white. 

The term biaz is an uncommon one 
in this country. It is an Asiatic native 
name, pronounced be'az. 



= 19.4 average count. 



19.4 average counts. 



The sizes of the yarns are about equal. 
For practical purposes a warp of 19s 
and a filling of 20s would answer. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
This fabric may be made on any of 
the light, fast running cam looms. On 
account of the small number of ends 
per inch a set of two-twine harnesses 
would be preferable. One warp and 
one shuttle only are required. 

FINISHING. 
The finishing of biaz is really the 
principal characteristic which distin- 
guishes it from many other plain wo- 
ven cloths. It has a more glossy ef- 
fect than India linen, one finishing 
process being somewhat similar to 
that of the latter fabric, with the 
beetling process added. 



650 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



A finish suitable for this cloth is as 
follows: Bleach, mangle and dry; fill 
with a light starch on the starch man- 
gle; stretch and dry. After drying and 
cooling, it is run through the damp- 
ing machine; then through the glazed 
calender on both sides, under very 
heavy pressure. The cloth is then 
dampened, beetled, changed and turn- 
ed, and again beetled and made up as 
required. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For biaz the same instructions may 
be followed as were given in the 
article on indigo prints, with the fol- 
lowing exceptions: 

The slubber roving is .50 hank and 
this is put through two processes of 
fly frames. At the first intermediate 
the roving is made into 1.20 hank and 
at the second into 3.50 hank. This is 
then passed directly to the spinning 
room and spun into 19s warp yarn on 
a frame having a 2i-inch gauge, two- 
inch diameter ring, 7-inch traverse; 
20.71 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. 
This is then spooled and warped, after 
which several warps are put up and 
run through the slasher and run upon 
a beam having the required number of 
ends wanted for weaving. The filling 
yarn is spun into 20s on a frame hav- 
ing a 2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diam- 
eter ring, 6% -inch traverse, 14.53 twist 
per inch, and a spindle speed of 7,300 
revolutions per minute, after which 
the yarn is conditioned. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
OLIVE. 
Five per cent pyrol olive G.; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

BRONZE. 
Five per cent pyrol bronze G.; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

BLACK. 

Ten per cent thiogene black M 
cone; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 
per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 



SLATE. 
One per cent thion black TBC; 1 
per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
Three-quarters per cent thion brown 
G.; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Six per cent diamine fast red BB.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 
Five per cent immedial brown B. ; 5 
per cent immedial cutch O. ; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One and one-half per cent thion blue 
B cone; iy 2 per cent sulphide sodium; 
1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
Develop with peroxide of hydrogen. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent thion navy blue R.; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent salt. Develop 
with peroxide of sodium. 



COBURG SUITING 

Coburg, of which there are several 
varieties, may be defined as a thin 
dress fabric made from cotton and 
worsted or cotton and silk. 

Coburg derives its name from the 
city of Coburg, in Germany, where it 
was first manufactured. The all-cotton 
fabric known as coburg is an inex- 
pensive dress fabric imitating the gen- 
uine fabric principally in the charac- 
ter of the weave only. 

The weave for these fabrics is an 

UNEVEN SIDED TWILL, 

giving the face of the goods a very 
pronounced twill effect. The accentu- 
ation of the twill is in part due to the 
number of ends per inch used in the 
construction of the goods. The ends 
per inch in the sample under consider- 
ation equal twice the number of picks 
per inch. 

This is somewhat in excess of the 
number of ends required to make per- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



651 



feet cloth. A perfect cloth is under- 
stood to mean a cloth in which the 
warp and filling yarns are equal in 
diameter, and the space between the 
threads is equal to the diameter of the 
yarn. This principle of construction 
applies particularly to plain woven 
cotton fabrics, more so than to any 
other class of fabrics. In fabrics of a 
special construction, such as coburg, 
the ends per inch are more or less 
crowded, with the consequent result 

■DIIDUDI 

Baaaaoaao 

DBaDBBOBB 

BDaanaaDB 

BBOBBOaaO 

ojaaoaaoaa 
aaaaoBBOa 
aaoBBOBaa 

OBBDBBDBB 

Fig. 1. 

BanooooDB 
OQODDDBCI 
□DQDDDBnn 
DDDDDBDDa 

EooDBOoaa 

DOQBDDDDa 

DBaaaDODa 
■nnnnnnnq 

Fig. 2. 

of a pronounced twill effect on the 
face of the fabric, which characterizes 
the goods. 

Cotton coburgs are commonly made 
with a three-harness twill weave 2 — - 
The ends per inch required in order 
to produce a perfect cloth, according to 
the above principle of constructing a 
perfect fabric, with the given counts 
of yarn, would be as follows: 

Weave repeats on three ends with 
two intersections. Three ends plus two 
intersections equals 5; as 5 : 3 :: 120, 
the number of ends that will lie side 
by side of l-20s cotton in one inch. 

Formula: 5:3:: 120 : x equals 72. 

The calculation shows that 72 ends 
and 72 picks of l-20s would give a per- 
fect cloth. 

In some fabrics an analysis will 
show 120 ends and 54 picks in the fin- 
ished fabric. The inequality of ends 
and picks per inch characterizes cloths 
of special construction, as the fabric 
in question. Cotton coburgs are prin- 
cipally used for dress goods, made up 
into wrappers, shirtwaists, shirtwaist 
suits, etc. The goods are woven in the 
gray, then dyed and in most cases 
printed or bleached and then printed. 



The goods, however, have no particu- 
lar coloring scheme or style of print- 
ed patterns. Some are finished in 
pure white or bleached without any 
printed pattern. Again they may be 
dyed any color desired. In most cases 
the goods are dyed and printed. The 
characters of patterns that are most 
popular in this class of goods are 
small geometrical figures or small con- 
ventionalized floral figures in but one 
or, at the most, two colors. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width in reed, 37% inches; width, 
finished, 36 inches. Reed, 1,400 x 3; 



!0i 





!<f: 


• • 

•• 


« » 

• • 

V 


• • 

• • 
•• 


: ° : 


Y" 


: o :• 


• • 
« • 
* •• 


• • 

• • 

• • 
•• 


• • 

• • 

* • 
•• 


: : 


O 


jO; 



Fig. 3. 

number of ends in warp, 4,374; 26 
ends selvage; equals 4,400 number of 
ends. 

Number of ends, per inch, finished, 
120; number of picks per inch, finish- 
er, 54; take-up in weaving, about 10 
per cent; warp yarn, l-26s cotton, fill- 
ing yarn, l-26s cotton. 

Fig. 1. Three repeats of . weave, 
twill running to the left. 

Fig. 2. Drawing-in draft. 

The warp may be drawn in on 6 
harnesses; 9 harnesses would avoid 



652 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



crowding of the harnesses and give 
better results in weaving. 
Fig. 3. A sample of printed pattern. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Common cotton fabrics, as a rule, 
may be woven on almost any light run - 
ning high-speed loom. Twill weaves, 
in which more than four harnesses are 
required, are usually woven on dobby 
looms. An automatic dobby loom 
would answer for the class of goods 
analyzed. Broken or mispicks in 
these fabrics are hardly noticeable, the 
filling showing very little of itself on 
the face of the fabric. 

FINISHING. 

The goods are first all boiled off, then 
dyed or bleached, as may be requir- 
ed, after which they are slightly stif- 
ened by running through a light solu- 
tion of size, then printed, after which 
they are made up into laps and then 
shipped. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Under most conditions the same in- 
structions given for indigo prints may 
be followed. The main point of differ- 
ence is that of the hank rovings at the 
slubber and fly frames or speeders. 
At the slubber the hank roving is .40 
and at the first intermediate 1.S0, 
while at the second intermediate it is 
made into 5.25 hank roving. This rov- 
ing is then ring spun into 26s for both 
the warp and filling yarns. For the 
warp yarn use a frame having a 6%- 
inch traverse; 1%-inch diameter ring; 
21-inch gauge of spindle and a spindle 
speed of 9,700 revolutions per minute. 

THIS YARN 

is then run on a spooler, after which 
the spools are .put up and run onto 
a beam. Several beams are then put 
up at the slasher, being run through 
this machine to be sized and run onto 
a beam at the head end. The filling 
frame has a 2|-inch gauge; 1%-inch 
diameter ring; 6-inch traverse; 17.84 
twist per inch, and a spindle speed of 
8,000 revolutions per minute. After be- 
ing made, the yarn should be condi- 



tioned by putting it into a steam chest 
or some similar compartment, al- 
though some mills merely immerse the 
full boxes of yarn into a tank of water 
and take them out immediately. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
For cotton warp coburgs: 

BLACK. 
Five per cent union black S. ; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt. 

WINE. 
Three and a half per cent diamine 
Bordeaux B.; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
One and one-half per cent diamine 
sky blue FF. ; % per cent diamine steel 
blue L.; 8 ounces thiocarmine R. pow- 
der; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Two per cent diamine black BH.; 
% per cent naphthol blue black; *4 
per cent formyl violet S. 4 B.; y 2 per 
cent union black S.; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 

One per cent diamine orange B.; 1 
per cent diamine fast yellow B.; % 
per cent union black S.; 1 per cent 
diamine brown M.; % Per cent In- 
dian yellow G.; 35 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

GREEN. 

Three per cent diamine green G. ; 1 
per cent diamine black HW. ; 1 per 
cent diamine fast yellow B.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 
Four per cent diamine scarlet B.; 1 
per cent fast scarlet B.; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

SLATE. 

Six ounces union black; 2 ounces 
naphthol blue black; 1 ounce diamine 
Bordeaux B.; 2 ounces diamine orange 
B.; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

For coburgs, all wool: 

For 100 pounds piece goods: Dye 
with 15 per cent Glauber's salt, 4 per 
cent sulphuric acid, for light and me- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



653 



dium shades; for dark shades add a 
little more if required. 
SLATE. 
Four and a half ounces cyanole 
green B.; Vz ounce acid yellow AT.; 1 
ounce azo orseille BB. 
RED. 
Five per cent naphthol red FB.; 1 
per cent orange extra. 
OLIVE. 
Two per cent cyanole green 6G.; 2% 
per cent acid yellow AT. 

PEACOCK BLUE. 
Two per cent indigo blue SGN.; 1 
per cent cyanole extra. 
BROWN. 
Two and one-half per cent acid yel- 
low AT.; 2 per cent lanafuchsine SG.; 
% per cent cyanole green 6 G. 
SKY BLUE. 
One ounce cyanole FF. pat.; x k 
ounce acid violet 6 BS. 
MAUVE. 
One per cent azo wool violet 7 R. ; 1 
ounce cyanole extra pat. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent azo navy blue 3B.; 
1^4 per cent azo navy blue B. 
BLACK. 
Five per cent azo merino black BE. 
_ ♦« » 

KID FINISH CAMBRIC 

Kid finish cambric is a name given 
to a soft-finished plain cloth which is 
fairly lustrous on both sides, but more 
so on the face than on the back. It 
is used exclusively for dress linings. 
It varies in width from about 24 to 27 
inches, and is shown in black and sta- 
ple shades. 

The fabric derives its name from Its 
appearance after being subjected to 
the finishing process. 

The cloth itself before finishing 
does not differ from many other plain 
cloths now shown on the market. It 
is fairly well filled with foreign sub- 
stances; the retail price at which It is 



sold, about 5 cents per yard for goods 
24 inches wide, and the firm feel nec- 
essary, preclude the possibility of put- 
ting very much cotton into it. 

The analysis of a sample under con- 
sideration shows the following: Fin- 
ished width, 25^ inches; ends per 
ineh, 64; picks per inch 54; warp 
yarn, 34s; filling yarn, 38s; weight, 
8 1-3 yards per pound. 

CALCULATIONS. 

A sample 4 inches x 3 inches in size 
weighs 11 grains, indicating a fabric 
weighing approximately 8 1-d yaras 
per pound. 

= 8.31 yards per pound. 



2,333.33 



11 grs. x 25.5 In. 

Allowing 20 per cent for size and 
contraction, the average counts of. 
yarns used may be found as follows: 

118 x 25.5 x 8.31x1.20 = ^ g ayerage number . 

840 

In the above calculation 118 repre- 
sents the sum of the sley and pick 25.- 
5 the width of the cloth, and 8.31 the 
number of yards per pound. 

Assuming the counts of the warp 
■ yarns to be 34s, the counts of # filling 
required to make the given weight ot 
cloth may be found as follows: 



118 (sum of sley an d pick) 

35.6 (average counts) 

64 (sley) 



= 3.31. 



= 1.88. 
34 (warp counts) 

3.31 — 1.88 = 1.43. 

54 (pick) = 37.7s counts of filling required. 
1.43 

38s filling would be used. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

As these goods are not noticed very 
closely after being made into gar- 
ments, being hidden when in use, lit- 
tle attention is paid to picking out or- 
dinary misweaves in the loom. Those 
that are made are covered to a more 
or less extent in the finishing process. 

The chief consideration, therefore, 
is a large production, which can best 
be obtained from light running cam 
looms. Ordinary or automatic looms 
may be employed, one warp beam and 
one shuttle only being required. The 
cloth is reeded one end per heddle and 
two ends per dent. 



654 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



This process is really the principal 
one in making these goods, giving 
them, as it does, the characteristic 
name. It gives to the cloth a some- 
what leathery feel, not too harsh or 
stiff, while yet adding a fair amount 
of foreign matter. 

After bleaching, dyeing and man- 
gling, the cloth is dried on the drying 
machine and allowed to cool. It is 
then conditioned on the damping ma- 
chine and allowed to lie for about twu 
hours, after which it is hot swiss cal- 
endered on a five-bowl compound lev- 
er calender, using light pressure. It is 
afterward filled on an ordinary two- 
bowl compound lever starch mangle 
with a mixture somewhat as follows: 

Dextrin 200 pounds 

Potato starch or farina . 20 pounds 

Cornstarch or maize 20 pounds 

Oleine oil 2 % gallons 

Carbolic acid % pint 

Water, sufficient to make 120 gallons when 
boiled. Boil for 15 minutes. 

After being filled, the cloth is dried 
on the drying machine and allowed to 
cool, then conditioned on the damping 
machine and allowed to lie at least 
two hours. It is then hot swiss cal- 
endered on a three-bowl dead set cal- 
ender, using light pressure, after 
which it is ready for making up. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for the grade of goods 
under description are made in mills 
having the equipment of those of the 
second division. The yarns for this 
fabric do not have to be combed. They 
are made from cotton of a middling 
grade of 1 to 1 1-16 inch staple. This 
cotton is mixed, as has been previ- 
ously described. The cotton should be 
allowed to stand as long as possible 
after opening before being worked. 
The cotton is passed through an open- 
er and three processes of pickers. Use 
the usual precaution in feeding the 
opener, being sure to keep the pin roll- 
er clear of cotton, especially sliver 
waste, which is apt to wind around 
this roll on certain makes of openers. 
After passing through the opener the 
cotton is fed to the breaker picker. 
The beaters of all the pickers are of 
the two-bladed, rigid type. The speed 



of the beater at the breaker picker is 
1,500 revolutions per minute. The to- 
tal weight of the lap at the front end 
of the breaker picker is 42 pounds. 
These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the 
intermediate picker, the speed of the 
beater at this machine being also 1,500 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front of this 
machine is 39 pounds or a 14-ounce 
lap. The laps are doubled at the fin- 
isher picker 4 into 1. The speed of the 
beater is 1,425 revolutions per minute. 

THE TOTAL WEIGHT 
of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or 
a 14%-ounce lap. An allowance of 
one-half pound either side of the 
standard total weight of lap is made 
for this class of goods. At the card 
the speed of the licker-in should be 
350 revolutions per minute. Do not 
make the card do the work of the pick- 
er, but watch to see that the speed of 
the beater is correct and that the set- 
tings of the feed roll and grid and 
grate bars are right to take out the 
dirt, seed shells, bits of leaves, etc. It 
is too often that the licker-in is called 
upon to do the work that the picker 
should, and a kick is made that the 
cards are not doing their duty. The 
speed of the flats in one complete rev- 
olution every 55 minutes. The wire fil- 
let used on the doffer and flats is 
No. 34s and on the cylinder is No. 35s. 
Grind and strip cards as described in 
a previous article. After grinding, the 
setting points should be all gone over. 
Do not have the flats too tight or they 
are apt to cramp and face, if not loos- 
en, the wire on the cylinder. Be al- 
ways sure to set flats to cylinder by 
the highest flats, generally five being 
left for this purpose. The weight of 
the sliver should be about 50 grains 
per yard and the production 750 to 900 
pounds per week of 60 hours. 

THE CARD SLIVER 
is put through three processes of 
drawing, the doublings being 6 into 1. 
The speed of the front roller should be 
about 400 revolutions per minute if 
leather is used, and 350 revolutions per 
minute if metallic top rolls are used. 
The drawing should be sized at least 
twice a day and four times a day is 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



655 



better. The setting of the bottom steel 
rolls should be especially looked after, 
as well as the knock-off motions, to see 
that no single is allowed to pass. If 
these motions are not in perfect work- 
ing order single will be allowed to 
pass, which will throw your numbers 
all out and cause a great deal of trou- 
ble to remedy. When changing the 
draft to change weight, always have 
same size draft gear on machines run- 
ning the same kind of work. The 
weight per yard of the sliver is 70 
grains. The drawing sliver is drawn 
into .60 hank roving at the slubber. 
Watch 

THE TRAVERSE MOTION 

to see that it is in working condition. 
After passing the slubber, the roving 
is passed through two processes of fly 
frames, the hank at each process being 
2 at the first and 6.50 hank at the sec- 
ond for the warp yarn and 8 hank for 
the filling yarn. Size these yarns once 
a day and be sure to keep them on the 
mark. Watch the build of bobbins, 
traverse motion, rolls and setting of 
same. The roving for warp yarn is 
made in 34s on a frame with a 1% 
inch diameter ring, e^-inch traverse, 
27.70 turns per inch and spindle speed 
of lO,200 revolutions per minute. The 
yarn is then spooled, warped and 
slashed. The filling is spun into 38s 
on a frame having a 11-inch diameter 
ring, 5%-inch traverse, 23.12 twist per 
inch and spindle speed of 8,800 revo- 
lutions per minute. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
PINK. 

Four ounces Erika G.; 15 pounds 
Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
One-half per cent diamine sky blue 
FF.; 15 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cenv 
sal soda. 

MAUVE. 
One-half per cent diamine violet N.; 
15 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
One-quarter per cent diamineral 
blue R.; 1-16 per cent diamine fast yel- 



low B.; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

LIGHT FAWN. 

One-quarter per cent diamine cate- 
chine G. ; % per cent diamineral brown 
G.; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

SLATE. 

One and one-half per cent diamine 
black BH.; *4 per cent diamine fast 
yellow B.; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

PEA GREEN. 

One -half per cent diamine green G.; 
10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

ECRU. 

One-eighth per cent diamine cate- 
chine 3 G.; % per cent diamine cate- 
chine B.; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

ROYAL BLUE. 

Two per cent diamine blue 3R.; 2 
per cent diamine brilliant blue G.; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SEAL BROWN. 

Two per cent diamine catechine B.; 
2 per cent diamine catechine 
G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 
per cent sal soda; 1 per cent diamine 
fast yellow A. 

WINE. 

Five per cent diamine Bordeaux B.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

RED. 

Four per cent diamine fast red 2 B.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Five per cent diamine black BH.; 1 
per cent diamine brilliant blue G.; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 

Three per cent diamine jet black 
OO.; 3 per cent diamine jet black SS.; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 2% per cent sal 
soda. 



656 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



BOTTLE GREEN. 

Five per cent diamine black HW. ; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 2 per cent diamine fast yellow 
B. 



BEIGE 



Under tbe head of "beige is a class 
of dress goods, the characteristic of 
which is tbeir mottled or mixed effect. 
This effect is brought about by various 
methods. The method used in produc- 
ing the effect largely influences the 
quality of the fabric, but the general 
appearance remains the same. 

We will describe beige as made by 




Fig. 1. 

three different methods: First, this 
fabric is originally made of yarns spun 
from wool dyed in the stock; this dyed 
stock is then mixed with undyed stock, 
then spun into a thread; generally sev- 
eral mixtures go into one fabric. 

These mixtures of dyed and undyed 
stock are varied. The proportions 
used may be 50 per cent of each; an- 
other mixture may have a more or less 
percentage of either stock; and an- 
other mixture may be composed of 
still a different percentage from the 
first two. 

The threads then spun from these 
mixtures are arranged in some order 



in the warping and also in the weav- 
ing, producing what are commonly 
known as indefinite plaid effects in 
connection with the mixed or mottled 
effects. 

THE SECOND METHOD 

is to use a combination of twist yarns, 
usually three or four different colored 
threads, as, for example, black and 
white, black and slate, slate and 
white, and the other may be a pearl 
and white. These combinations of 
threads may be arranged similar to 
the arrangement in the first method, 
likewise producing an indefinite plaid 
effect. The use of black and white, 
slate and white, and colors of similar 
shades, produces gray effects. Grays 
and browns are the prevailing colors 
in this class of goods. The colored 
yarn used in this particular class is 
usually worsted, while the white in 
most cases is a cotton thread. 

THE THIRD METHOD 
of producing this mixed or mottled ef- 
fect is brought about by printing the 
goods. 

This method is usually practiced on 
the cheaper grade of goods, goods 
composed entirely of cotton yarn; the 
effect, however, imitates very closely 
the wool dyed in the stock fabric or 
the goods composed of twist yarns. 
In the finer grade of fabrics the twill 
weave is much in evidence, while the 
cotton goods are mostly woven plain. 
The plain weave is more adapted to 
the particular character of printing; 
in order to give the plaid effect in con- 
nection with the mixed or mottled ap- 
pearance, the goods are subjected to 
two processes of printing: 

ANALYSIS OF COTTON BEIGE. 

Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 36 inches; 
reed, 1,000 by 2; number of ends in 
warp, 2,076; 28 ends each selvage 
equals 56; total ends in warp, 2,132. 
Number of ends per inch finished, 60; 
picks per inch finished, 48; take-up of 
warp during weaving, 12 per cent; 
warp and filling yarn 1-26. The 1,000 
reed means 1,000 dents in 36 inches 
of reed. The 2,076 is the number of 
ends in warp without the selvage. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



667 



Fig. 1. Sample of fabric as produced 
by means of twist yarns; the fabric 
is plain woven. 

LOOM USED. 

For the better grade of fabrics the 
pick and pick loom is required to give 
the best effects. The goods woven 
pick and pick will be less inclined to 
appear stripy; this effect would be un- 
desirable; the stripes should be of an 
indefinite nature. 

The sample of fabric shown in Fig. 
1 is woven on a 4 x 1 box loom, in 
which no less than two picks of one 
color must be woven before it changes 
onto the next color; unless the colors 
are carefully graded they will produce 
a fabric more or less striped. In the 
printed cotton beige fabric a single 
box loom fills the requirements. This 
grade of goods is woven with un- 
dyed yarns; the effect, as already 
mentioned, is produced by the printing 
machine after the goods are woven. 

FINISHING. 
The cotton fabric, after it is woven, 
is boiled off, after wnich it is slightly 
stiffened, then subjected to the print- 
ing machine, after which it is pressed, 
then made up into laps or rolls and 
then shipped. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Beige is a dress goods generally 
made from wool and sometimes of 
wool and cotton, other grades being 
made from all-cotton yarns. The cot- 
ton is dyed in the stock. Some of the 
grades of beige are made from combed 
yarn, whereas other grades are made 
from carded yarns. The staple of the 
cotton does not exceed 1 1-16 inches in 
length for an American cotton. Mix! 
cotton as has been previously stated. 
Three processes of pickers are used, 
the particulars being the same as giv- 
en for etamine. The particulars for 
the cards and drawing frames as given 
in that article may also be followed. 

AT THE SLUBBER 
the drawing sliver is made into .60 
hank roving, and is then put through 
two processes of fly frames or speed- 
ers, the hank roving at the first inter- 



mediate being 1.75 and at the second 
intermediate 5 hank. Speeders should 
be looked after to see that the rolls 
are properly set; that top rolls are in 
good condition; that there are no dead 
spindles; that the spindles are oiled 
once a day; the build of bobbin cor- 
rect; traverse motion wording prop- 
erly, and frame at all times clean and 
neat. The bobbins when doffed should 
not be thrown into doffing box or 
truck, but should be packed in. The 
boxes or trucks should be cleaned out 
before doffing. After changing a frame 
from one kind of work to another the 
new roving should be sized and tested 
for twist, and the tension watched. 
After the speeders the yarn is put 
through 

THE SPINNING FRAME, 

where the proper colors of yarns are 
doubled together and spun into 26s 
yarn, the warp frame having the fol- 
lowing particulars: Length of trav- 
erse, 6% inches; diameter of ring, 1% 
inches; gauge of frame, 21 inches, and 
spindle speed of 9,700 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then spooled, 
warped and slashed. For the filling 
frame use a 21-inch gauge of frame; 
11 -inch diameter ring; 6-inch trav- 
erse and a spindle speed of 8,000 rev- 
olutions per minute; the diameter of 
the front bottom steel roll of spinning 
frames being one inch for both warp 
and filling. 



Dyeing Particulars — Yarn Dyeing. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Four per cent naphtamine blue 2 
B.; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

MEDIUM BROWN. 
Three per cent naphtamine brown 
N.; 1 percent naphtamine yellow NN.; 
20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. 

RED. 
Four per cent diamine fast red BB.; 
25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. 

DARK BROWN. 
Four per cent naphtamine brown 6 
B.; 25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 



658 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



SLATE. 
One and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine black D.; 20 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

OLIVE. 
Three and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine olive R.; 20 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

GREEN. 
Six per cent immedial green GG. ; 6 
per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 25 per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BOTTLE GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial green; 8 per 
cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 25 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
One-half per cent diamine catechine 
G.; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 
Ten per cent immedial black NN.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
MAROON. 
Six per cent immedial Bordeaux G.; 
6 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
Six per cent immedial sky blue FP.; 
6 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 

Printing Particulars. 

Cotton beige is also printed on the 
piece. To get a good imitation of the 
woven fabric, it has to be printed on 
both sides of the piece. After print- 
ing one side of the fabric and drying, 
the pieces are rolled up on a roller 
and the other side of the piece is 
printed, so that both sides of the piece 
present the same appearance. The 
goods are given a soft finish to imitate 
a piece of dress goods. The colors 
printed on are made as fast as pos- 
sible, so that the goods can be wash- 
ed when required. 

The goods are printed, dried and 
steamed in a Mather and Piatt at 212 
degrees F., excluding the air as far as 
possible. Wash in cold water, soap 
lukewarm, rinse and dry. 



BLUE. 

Seventy parts immedial indone BN.; 
stir well to a paste with 20 parts caus • 
tic soda lye, 77 degrees Tw.; 50 parts 
glycerine; then add 150 parts reducing 
paste A. The whole is heated for 
some time to 140 degrees F. and cool- 
ed; stir in 80 parts China clay; 60 
parts saturated solution of common 
salt; 570 parts alkaline gum thicken- 
ing. 

GREEN. 

Ninety parts immedial green GG.; 
300 parts alkaline gum thickening; 40 
parts China clay; 30 parts saturated 
common salt solution; 150 parts re- 
ducing paste A.; mix and stir; when 
cool add 40 parts China clay; 30 parts 
saturated common salt solution; 320 
parts alkaline green thickening. 
BLACK. 

Seventy parts immedial black NLN.; 
150 parts reducing paste A.; heat to- 
gether to 120 degrees F.; allow to cool 
down, then stir in a mixture of 160 
parts China clay; 120 parts saturated 
solution of salt; 500 parts alkaline 
gum thickening. 

BROWN. 

Mix as the blue with 70 parts imme- 
dial brown B. ; 10 parts immedial yel- 
low D. 

DARK SLATE. 

Thirty parts immedial black NB. ; 
mix as the green. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

Ten parts immedial black NG. ; 2 
parts immedial direct blue B. ; mix as 
the green. . j 

ECRU. 

Five parts immedial yellow D.; 2 
parts immedial cutch G. ; mix as the 
green. 

OLIVE. 

Fifty parts immedial olive B. ; 20 
parts immedial bronze A.; mix as the 
green. 

BRONZE. 

Forty parts bronze A.; 10 parts 
cutch G. ; mix as the green. 
FAWN. . 

Fifty parts immedial cutch O.; 10 
parts immedial brown RR. ; mix as the 
green. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



659 



LIGHT BLUB. 
Forty parts irumedial sky blue; mix 
as the green. 



POPLIN 



Poplin is a name given to a class of 
goods distinguished by a rep, rib, or 
cord effect running width way of the 
piece. It referred originally to a fabric 
having a silk warp and a figure of 
wool filling heavier than the warp. At 
the present time it refers more to a 
ribbed fabric than to one made from 
any particular combination of mate- 
rials. 

Cotton poplin is usually made with 
a plain weave, the rep effect being ob- 
tained either by using a fine warp, as 
compared with the filling, or a large 
number of ends, as compared with 
picks per inch, or both. 

IRISH POPLIN, 

made principally in Dublin, is a fabric 
made of China organzine silk warp and 
colonial wool filling. The manufacture 
of this cloth has continued in Dublin 
since 1693, when a number of Hugue- 
not silk weavers emigrated from Lyons, 
France. The industry is still carried 
on there to some extent on hand looms, 
the weavers owning their own looms. 
The materials are supplied by the 
firms for whom they work and are 
given out ready for weaving. The Irish 
poplin is a light-weight variety of pop- 
lin, sometimes called single poplin, 
and is celebrated for its uniformly 
fine and excellent wearing qualities. 

Brocaded poplin is made with elab- 
orate jacquard designs of various 
types. 

TERRY POPLIN 

is a very durable fabric, made on the 
principle of cloth construction ex- 
plained in the article on "Terry Pile 
Fabrics." By throwing to the surface 
alternate ends of the silk warp an ap- 
pearance somewhat resembling terry 
velvet is obtained. 

The bulk of cotton poplin goods are 
woven and finished white. Poplins 

7,000 (grrs. per lb.) x 2.5 (yds.) 
2.940 (gra.) 



formerly were woven from yarns 
which had previously been bleached or 
dyed, as the case may be, but to-day 
these fabrics are largely made from 
grey yarns and then bleached and 
piece dyed. The construction of such 
fabrics is not widely different from 
that formerly noted, but the product 
is undoubtedly made more economical- 
ly and the colors produced are just 
as satisfactory, if not more so, than 
those on some of the older styles of 
goods. A large proportion of the pop- 
lin fabrics made from combed yarns 
are piece mercerized, for this makes 
a luster on the cloth, and creates a 
greater sale. Some fabrics are made 
with combed warp and carded filling, 
others from all combed stock, while 
others are entirely carded material. 
The fabrics are mercerized in the warp 
direction, and the warp yarn is soft 
twisted to aid in producing a high 
luster. Because the yarn is soft twist- 
ed, it is a general policy to have it 
two-ply, that is, 60-2 soft twist warp 
will be used in place of 30-1. It used 
to be true that the heavy filling and 
rather light warp did not take the dye 
evenly, and while there is a certain 
amount of objection to-day because of 
this fact, nevertheless the results are 
satisfactory in the majority of in j 
stances. 

For a given length of poplin cloth 
a much greater length of warp is re- 
quired than for an equal length of 
cloth where the warp and filling yarns 
and ends and picks are practically 
equal, because the coarse filling lies in 
the cloth in practically a straight line, 
the warp yarns having to do all thu 
deflecting. 

The analysis of a typical cotton pop- 
lin of good quality shows the following 
data: Ends per inch, 104; picks per 
inch, 48; finished width, 27 inches; 
weight about 6 yards per pound; warp 
yarns, 2 -68s; filling yarns, 2-60s. Plain 
weave. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To find number of yards per pound: 
2y 2 yards weigh 2,940 grains. 

= 5.95, say, 6 yards per pound. 



660 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



To find average counts of yarn, as- 
suming the warp yarn to have con- 
tracted. 10 per cent in length from 
warp to finished cloth, and the filling 4 
per cent in width: 

104 (ends) divided by .90 115.55 

48 (picks) divided by .96 50.00 



To find weight of 100 -yard cut: 

11.18 lbs. warp. 
5.45 lbs. filling. 



165.55 
165.55 x 27.5 (width) x 6 (weight) 



16.63 lbs. yarn in 100 yards of cloth. 

To find number of yards per pound: 

100 -*- 16.63 = 6 yards per pound. 



= 32.5 average counts. 



In dealing with the preceding cal- 
culations it has been considered that 
the yarns were mercerized before be- 
ing woven, and the counts indicated' 
after mercerizing. The mercerizing 
process tends to contract the length 
of yarn to a greater or less degree, 
depending upon the quality of the yarn, 
the mercerizing liquor, and the ma- 
chinery used. If mercerized under 
tension, there is not a very large con- 
traction, but if the y^rn is allowed to 
contract it may do so to the extent of 
20 to 30 per cent, that is, a cotton 
yarn spun to 50s may contract in the 
mercerizing bath to 40s or 35s yarn. 

Both warp and filling in the sample 
under consideration are mercerized, 
and are 2-ply yarns of good quality. 

To find the counts of filling required 
to give the stated weight, assuming 
the warp yarn to be 2-ply 68s: 

165.55 divided by 32.5 (ave. counts) 5.09 

115.55 (sley) divided by 34 (warp counts) 3.39 

1.70 

Fifty divided by 1.70 equals 29.4 
equals 2 -59s filling required. The 
counts would be indicated as 2-60s. 

The selvages consist of eight dou- 
ble ends on each side. 

To find number of ends in warp: 

104 (ends per inch) x 27.5 (cloth width) 

2,860 -f 16 for selvage = 2,876, total ends. 

To find weight of warp in 100 yards 
of cloth. 

2,876 (ends) x 100 (yards) 



840 x 34 (counts) x .90 (10% (contraction) 



LOOM REQUIRED. 

For plain weave poplins an ordinary 
plain cam loom is required, one warp 
and one filling being sufficient. It is 
not advisable to use automatic looms 
unless the same are equipped to 
change the cop or bobbin before the 
preceding one has spent itself, be- 
cause a mispick is one of the defects 
that shows most prominently in this 
class of goods. 

FINISHING. 

The fabric under consideration, hav- 
ing been bleached and mercerized in 
the yarn, requires very little after- 
treatment. It is washed, conditioned, 
calendered lightly and made up, book 
fold. 

The finishing of any fabric depends 
largely upon the methods through 
which it was produced. If a poplin is 
produced with dyed and mercerized 
yarns, such as is noted on drapery 
materials and similar articles, there 
is very little description necessary 
regarding the finishing processes. Tne 
fact that many poplins are now made 
from grey yarns makes the finishing 
much different from that upon the 
yarn dyed material. The fabric is 
usually mercerized in the grey state, 
then bleached and dyed the color 
which is desired. Large quantities of 
these fabrics have been sold, in fact it 

11.18 lbs. warp. 



To find weight of filling in 100 yards 
of cloth: 



is considered one of the staple articles 
in the trade to-day. 



48 (picks) x 27.5 (cloth width) x 100 (yds). 
840 x 30 (counts) x .96 (4% contraction) 



= 5.45 lbs. filling. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



661 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

When making t^e yarns for poplin 
the same particulars may be followed 
as have been previously given in the 
article on "Lawn." For this par- 
ticular grade of poplin the warp yarn 
is 2-68s and the filling yarn 2-60s. 
Use the instructions given for making 
60s warp yarn, with the following ex- 
ceptions. The spinning frame for the 
warp yarn would be as follows: For 
making 68s warp yarn, 1| Inches 
diameter of ring; 5y 2 length of trav- 



GREEN. 
Six per cent pyrol green G.; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
BLUE. 
Six per cent pyrol blue B.; 6 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 'I per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent salt. 

ECRU. 
One-half per cent immedial cate- 
chine G.; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 
2 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 




Poplin. 



erse, and spindle speed of 10,000 revo- 
lutions per minute. This yarn is then 
spooled and twisted into 2-ply, the 
twist put in being 39.17 turns per inch. 
After being twisted, the yarn is warp- 
ed and slashed. For spinning the 60s 
filling yarn use a frame having a 1%~ 
inch diameter ring, 5 -inch traverse, 27 
twists per inch and a spindle speed of 
8,000 revolutions per minute. This yarn 
is spooled and twisted into 2-60s, after 
which it is conditioned and is then 
ready for use. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

BRONZE. 

Five per cent pyrol bronze; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 



OLIVE. 
Two per cent immedial indone B.; tt 
per cent immedial yellow D.; Ms per 
cent immedial catechine G. ; 9 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
25 per cent salt. 

WINE. 
Eight per cent diamine Bordeaux B. ; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red B B. ; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent katigen indigo B.; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent thion black T B.; 2 
per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 



662 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F F. ; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
SEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent immedial green 
B.; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 



COTTON-MOHAIR FABRICS 

Mohair fabrics, commonly so call- 
ed, are used exclusively for dress 
goods, in the form of tailor-made suits, 
skirts, children's coats, etc. 

The name, mohair, is acquired from 
the material used in the construction 
of the fabric. This material, mohair, 



wool; in brief, it may be described as 
a long, straight, glossy animal fibre. 
These fabrics 

VARY CONSIDERABLY 

in regard to quality, style and width, 
but all are plain woven fabrics. Some 
are elaborated into spot patterns by 
means of the filling floating over a 
given number of ends in some geo- 
metrical form. 

Again, the spots may be formed by 
the use of an extra warp. This warp 
floats on the back of the fabric for 
a given space, then comes to the face 
for a required number of picks. This 
extra warp is usually mercerized, the 
yarn differing in color from the body 
of warp and being arranged in groups 




Fig. 1. 



the product of the Angora goat, is 
used principally in the filling only; 
the warp may be cotton, worsted, or 
silk, according to the quality of fabric 
wanted. 

The characteristics of mohair fab- 
rics are their crispness and glossy ap- 
pearance. These features are effected 
by the mohair. Mohair, like wool, is 
an animal fibre, but differs from the 
latter in so far that the fibres are 
longer and coarser than wool, and mo- 
hair is not as soft or as crinkled as 



of two or more ends across the entire 
breadth of warp. These groups of 
threads may alternate, as, for exam- 
ple, one group may be yellow, the next 
green, another red or any color that 
may strike the fancy of the designer, 
providing that the color thus used 
produces some degree of harmony. 
This will give plenty of variety to 
the fabric, and if these various groups 
of threads are made to work on some 
sateen or broken twill order, they will 
give the appearance of a large de- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



663 



sign, or, as generally mentioned, a 
jacquard effect. In filling floated fab- 
rics, it is most important that the dis- 
tribution of the figure should be so 
that the eye is not attracted by lines 
formed by the unequal distribution of 
the figure. This objectional feature is 
most likely to occur in designs of this 
character. It is somewhat difficult to 
tell if the distribution is perfect with- 
out extending the design for four or 
even more repeats. In designs which 
consist of set figures, the difficulty of 
arrangement is somewhat eliminated 
by arranging the figure on some irreg- 
ular sateen basis, the irregular sateen 
being preferred to the regular sateen 
basis as the former gives a somewhat 
stiff appearance, the latter giving a 
mixed effect more suitable for this 
class of fabrics. Figure 1 shows one 
repeat of the design the spot based on 
a 5 -harness sateen order. Figure 2 
shows one repeat of figure based on 

1 broken twill. Figure 2 presents 

a more mixed effect than Figure 1. 



Mm ■jiriu mm: m ■: mi ■ i::iia' ■: m 
m'w-W n P ilk ur.m ki K.nri w 




Fig. 2. 

Considerable quantities or mohair 
are woven plain throughout. In this 
style of fabrics the ornamentation, if 
such is desired, is effected by means 
of twist or fancy colored threads ar- 
ranged in some order, usually in the 
warp only, though a similar arrange- 
ment may be carried out in regard to 
the filling. These fancy colored 



threads may be arranged in almost 
any way possible; the object, how- 
ever, is to have a fine hair-line stripe 
throughout the entire length of fabric. 
Still another method of breaking the 
monotony of a plain fabric is to skip 
a dent in the reed at certain inter- 
vals; this may be carried out with 
fancy colored threads if desired. 
These fabrics, as mentioned above, are 
made in various qualities. We will 
here deal with the cotton warp and 
mohair filling fabric. This particular 
class is usually piece-dyed. The warp, 
however, is dyed before it is beamed. 
When twist yarn is used, that is, a 
twist composed of two different col- 
ored threads, one of the two threads 
in some fabrics is a worsted thread; 
when such is the fact, the warp is 
not dyed until woven into the fabric; 
the cotton end composing one of the 
twist threads will not take the color 
in a worsted dye. When cotton only is 
used in the twist one of the threads 
is dyed before it is twisted, that is, if 
a colored and white thread is to be 
the twist wanted. 

ANALYSIS OF COTTON MOHAIR. 

Width in reed, 60% inches; width 
finished, 54 inches; ends per inch in 
reed, 44; ends in warp, 2,660; ends in 
selvage, 78 (39 each side, 3 in a dent) ; 
total ends, 2,738; reed, 44 x 1. 

Dressing 2 ends black 

1 end black, white 

2 ends black 

1 end black, white 

2 ends black 

1 end black, white 

2 ends black 

1 end black, white 

2 ends black 

2 ends black, white 

16 
Ends in warp. 

1,664 black cotton 10 2-80 

996 black white cotton 6 2-80 

78 bleached cotton 2-80 

2,738 16 

Filling 115s mohair, 48 picks. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

The plain mohair, or the fabric in 
which the ornamentation is effected by 
means of fancy colored threads, may 
be woven on any light-weight loom; 
the roller, dobby or automatic loom 
may be used to advantage. The loom 
could make better cloth if it had a 



664 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



warp stop-motion, as it is very im- 
portant that no ends be left out in the 
weaving; if they are, they must be 
sewed in before the fabric is finished, 
thus entailing another expense. 

Fancy figured mohair requires the 
use of a jacquard loom, on account of 
the number of ends in the repeat of 
the pattern, which would be too great 
for the dobby loom. 

The warp for mohair fabrics is 
reeded one end in one dent, and wo- 
ven with considerable tension on the 
warp beam. 

FINISHING. 

After the fabric is woven it is ex- 
amined and mended if necessary, then 
scoured, after which it is dyed. These 
fabrics are dyed in various colors and 
shades. After the dyeing process, the 
fabrics are sheared on the face, then 
doubled and made up into rolls, ready 
for the market, 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Mohair is composed of all mohair or 
a cheaper grade which is made up of 
mohair and cotton. The count of the 
yarn used for the sample under de- 
scription is composed of l-15s mohair 
filling and 2 -80s warp yarn. The yarn 
for the warp is made in cotton mills 
of either the first or second division 
as classified in a previous article. 
The yarn is made from an American 
cotton, either peeler or Allen seed 
being used. The staple is 1% inches, 
and cotton should be of a good grade. 
As this cotton is apt to be very dirty, 
it is generally put through an opener 
and three processes of picking. 

THE MIXING 

should be as large as possible, and if 
possible the mixing should be allowed 
to stand for at least three days before 
using, so that it may dry out and ex- 
pand. If this is done it will be found 
that the cotton is easier to work and 
the dirt will be taken out very much 
easier. At the mixing be sure that the 
grades of the cotton of each bale are 
the same and do not under any cir- 
cumstances use a creamy bale. Each 
bale should be stapled before being 
put into the mix to see that it is up 



to staple. Keep the hopper of the 
opener well filled with cotton, so as 
to obtain as even a feed as possible. 
The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 

at the breaker picker for this stock 
is 1,450 revolutions per minute, the 
beater used being of a two-bladed 
type. The weight of a 40-yard lap at 
the front of the breaker is 40 pounds 
or a 16-ounce lap. At the interme- 
diate picker, the speed of the beater 
should be 1,400 revolutions per min- 
ute, the lap at the front weighing 37% 
pounds or a 12 -ounce lap. At the fin- 
isher picker the speed of the beater is 
1,350 revolutions per minute. The to- 
tal weight of the lap is 35 pounds or 
a 12% -ounce lap. At the finisher pick- 
er the good waste laps, or, as they 
are sometimes called, cut-roving waste 
laps, are mixed in with the raw stock, 
one lap cut waste to three laps of good 
cotton. In mills that do not have a 
roving waste picker it is 

THE GENERAL, CUSTOM 
to take out the middle two laps and 
spread the cut waste evenly in this 
span and use up the waste in this 
manner. These laps are sometimes 
put up at the cards, but the general 
custom is to put them through the fin- 
isher picker again in the proportion 
named above. A variation of not more 
than one-half a pound either side of 
standard is allowed, every lap being 
weighed. If the laps weigh over or 
under this allowance they should be 
run over again. This point cannot be 
looked into too. closely, and it will 
save a lot of trouble in the evenness 
of the numbers at the fine frames and 
in the spinning room. The laps from 
the picker are put up 

AT THE CARD, 
the speed of the licker-in being 350 
revolutions per minute; speed of flats, 
one complete revolution every 45 min- 
utes (110 flats). The cards should be 
properly set, ground and stripped at 
least three times a day. Keep the 
wire sharp at all times, and it is a 
good plan to grind the flats on a spe- 
cial grinding machine for flats, they 
being taken off the cards for this pur- 
pose. The weight of the sliver at the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



665 



card is 45 grains per yard. As the sliv- 
er is to be combed, the card sliver is 
put up at the sliver lap machine, 
where it is doubled 14 into 1 (i. e., 
for an 85-inch width lap). The weight 
of a yard of lap at the front is 290 
grains. These laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap machine and doubled six 
into 1, the weight of a yard of lap at 
this machine being 275 grains. These 
laps are put up at the comber and 
doubled according to the number of 
heads the comber has. The percentage 
of waste taken out at this machine is 
18 per cent. The weight of the sliver 
is 35 grains per yard. This sliver is 
put through two processes of 

' DRAWING FRAMES, 

the doublings at each process gener- 
ally being 6 into 1, although some mills 
double 8 into 1 at the breaker and 6 
into 1 at the finisher. The weight of 
the sliver at the front of the finisher 
drawing should be 70 grains per yard. 
Either metallic or leather top rolls 
may be used for this class of work, 
generally the latter being used. See 
that the leather top rolls on all ma- 
chines are in perfect shape and well 
varnished; size the ribbon laps at 
least once a day and drawing frames 
four times a day. The drawing sliver 
is put up at the slubber and drawn 
into .55 hank roving, after which it is 
put through three processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving made at each 
process being as follows: First inter- 
mediate, 1.50; 2d, 4.50 and fine frame 
16 hank. This yarn is taken to the 
spinning frame and spun into 80s on 
a frame with a 2 1-inch gauge of frame, 
li-inch diameter ring, 5% -inch trav- 
erse and spindle speed of 9,600 revolu- 
tions per minute. This yarn is then 
spooled and twisted into 2-ply 80s 
yarn, many times two different col- 
ored yarns being twisted together. The 
yarn is then respooled and run upon a 
beam, after which the beams are put 
through the slasher and sized. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
MEDIUM BROWN. 
Three per cent naphtamine brown 
N.; 1 per cent naphtamine yellow NN.; 



20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

DARK BROWN. 
Four per cent naphtamine brown 6 
B.; 25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SLATE. 
One and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine black D.; 20 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

OLIVE. 
Three and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine olive R.; 20 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

DARK BOTTLE GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial green; 8 
per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 
Bj^ACK. 
Ten per cent immedial black NN.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
MAROON. 
Six per cent immedial Bordeaux G.; 
6 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 



HERRINGBONE STRIPES 

Herringbone stripes are certain 
weave effects resembling herring- 
bones. They are developed to the 
greatest extent in men's wear fabrics, 
woolens, worsteds, cotton worsteds 
and all cottons, although in these 
goods the arrangements of various col- 
ors in the warp yarns form one of the 
principal component parts of the pat- 
tern. Herringbone weaves in ladies' 
dress goods are usually shown In 
white. 

These weaves are a development of 
ordinary twill weaves in which the 
twills, instead of running in one un- 
broken line diagonally across the 
piece, run for a certain number of ends 
one way and a certain number of ends 
in the reverse direction, thus breaking 
the continuity of the twill. They dif- 
fer from wave effects in having the 
two ends defining the turning points 
of the twill arranged to work opposite 
each other, i. e., when one is raised 
the other, is depressed. This may be 



666 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



seen at the points indicated by the 
daggers in Figs. 1 to 5. 

The foundation twills principally 
used when developing these weaves 
for men's wear goods are the even 
flushed twills ! — 2 and 5 — - 3 , Figs. 6 
and 7, the former forming the greater 
proportion. Figs. 1 to 5 show some of 
the other weaves used, the number of 
ends in each section and the number 
of sections in a repeat being made to 
vary according to requirements. The 
daggers indicate the cutting points. 

Although the principle may be ex- 
tended to large weaves, it is seldom 
that the effects are made from a 
weave base greater than eight ends 
and eight picks. 

Fig. 8 illustrates a herringbone ef- 
fect in a cotton cloth made with weave 
Fig. 1. In the gray the warp appears 
to stand up from the cloth in the sec- 
tions weaving ! — l on the face. This 
prominent effect is modified in the fin- 
ished cloth. 

Fig. 8 is one of a line or range of 
patterns made and finished in Eng- 
land, for sale in northwest Africa. 
The construction of the cloth is as fol- 
lows: width in gray, 30% inches; ends 
per inch, 68; picks per inch, 72; warp, 
35s; filling, 48s; yards per pound, 7.72, 
say 7%. The ends have been reeded 
equally throughout, 2 ends per dent. 
The selvages consist of 12 ends of 2- 
ply 30s yarn on each side. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To find number of ends in warp: 

68 (ends per inch) x 30% (inches) = 2,074 

ends. 
2,074 + 24 (selvages) = 2,098 ends in warp. 
24 2-ply yarns represent 48 single yarns. 

In the above calculation 24 of these 
were considered when multiplying the 
ends per inch by the width, leaving 
but 24 to be added. 

To find weight of warp: 

2.098 (ends) x 105 (yds.) 

___ = 7.05 lbs. warp. 

840 x 35 

To find weight of filling: 



To find number of yards per pound: 



7.05 lbs. 
5.89 lbs. 



warp, 
filling. 



12.94 lbs. weight of cut. 
100 (yds.) -T- 12.94 = 7.72 yards per pound. 

The finished fabric has been heavily 
sized or filled, giving but 6 2-3 yards 
per pound. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

The class of goods under considera- 
tion is generally woven on fast run- 

t \ r 

□ODIDDDIDIIinill 

Domaaamamammmamm 

DBOGOBOGBBOBBBDB 

■DGDBCDDBBBDBBBQ 

Fig. 1. 
t t 

DDBDDBDDBGBBGBBDni 

dbddbddbdbdbbdbdbq 

bddbddbljdbbdbbdbdB 

Fig. 2. 



t t 

DBnaCBGBBBGB.-.BOaDB 
BaODSOBOBBBQBOOaaO 
DaaBDBDBDBBBDDDBaB 
DDBOBDBDBDBBDnBDBa 
DBaBQQBBGBDBDBCBDa 
■DBODDBBBDBCBDBaaa 



Fig. 3. 



t t 

BQBDOBQBBDBDnBBDOB 
GflDDBBQaBBaBODBaBB 
BGGBBDBGGBBQBGGBfla 
DLia^lDIOGIIOIDIOI 
GBBQBGBGBGGHGaGBa 
BBGBGGBBGBGGBBDBDa 



Fig. 4. 



DODBBBCBGBODGBBB 
QGBBBLBGBDBanaBB 
GBBBGBDGBBGBGDGB 
BBBGBGGGBBBGBGGC1 
BBQBOGGBOBBBDBOD 
BGBacaBBGOBBBOBa 
QBGaaBHBnGCBBBGB 
BGGGBBBGBDGGBBBD 



Fig. 5. 



Fig. 6. 



BBGODB 
BGGGBB 

□DQBBB 
DQBBBG 
GBBBDG 
BBBGGG 
fig. 7. 



ning, side cam, single box looms. One 
warp only is required and the goods 
are reeded equally throughout. 

FINISHING. 

This fabric has been subjected to 
the "back filled" process of finishing. 
This consists of bleaching, mangling, 



72 (pks.) x 33 in. (width in reed) x 100 (yds.) 
840 x 48 



5.89 lbs. filling. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



667 



drying, damping, calendering, stretch- 
ing and filling. The mixture for back 
filling is composed of wheat starch, 
farina, China clay, oleine oil, cocoanut 
oil, bluing, carbolic acid and water. 
After being filled, it is dried, dampen- 
ed, calendered and made up as re- 
quired. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which herringbone 
stripes are composed are made in mills 
of the second division, as given in a 
previous article. The count of the 
yarns put into this style of fabric va- 
ries, and for this article we will con- 
sider that the count of yarn used is 
35s for warp yarn, 48s for filling and 
30s for selvage. The staple of the 



processes of pickers are generally 
used for both lengths of staple. 
Follow the rules already given 
in connection with the openers. 
At. the breaker picker the speed of a 
two-bladed, rigid type of beater is 1,- 
500 revolutions per minute and of a 
three-bladed beater is 1,000 revolu- 
tions per mniute. If a pin beater is 
used the speed is 1,200 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap at 
the front of this picker is 40 pounds. 
The laps are put up at the intermedi- 
ate picker and doubled 4 into 1. The 
speed of a two-bladed beater at this 
machine is 1,450 revolutions per min- 
ute, a three-bladed beater, 950 and a 
pin beater, 1,100 revolutions per min- 
ute. The total weight of a lap at the 
front of this machine is 38 pounds or 



I 



L 



L:--... .£:■:*:£'. y, .\ l . 



mm 




Fig. 8. 



cotton used for the 30s and 35s-yarn 
is 1%-inch and for the 48s is 1 3-16- 
inch of middling grade. 

THE MIXINGS 

should be as large as possible, so that 
as little variation as possible will be 
found between the different mixings, 
and also there should be two mixings 
of the same length of staple, one being 
used while the other is being worked. 
If the mixing is put through a bale 
breaker one mixing may be done away 
with. This is so that the cotton will 
be allowed to expand as much as pos- 
sible before being put through the 
pickers. An opener and three 



a 14-ounce lap for both stocks. These 
laps are put up at the breaker picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. At this picker 
the cut-waste laps are put in in the 
proportion of three laps of raw stock 
to one lap of cut waste, the waste lap 
being generally inserted between the 
back and third lap. The speed of this 
beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute; 
the two-bladed beater, 925 revolutions 
per minute; and 1,050 revolutions per 
minute for a pin beater. The total 
weight of the lap at the front is 39 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap for a 40-yard 
(in length) lap. The laps are 
next put up at the card. This 
card should have a licker-in speed 



668 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of 350 revolutions per minute. The 
wire used should be 110s for cylinder 
and 120s for doffer and top flats. The 
top flats should make one complete 
revolution every 45 minutes and 
should he looked after to see that they 
are properly cleaned and ground. 
Grind and strip and set as per instruc- 
tions given in a previous article on 
the same length of staple. The weight 
of the sliver at the front should be 45 
grains per yard and the production 650 
pounds per week of 60 hours. The 
cottons are next put through the sliv- 
er lap machine, the doublings being 14 
into 1 and the weight per yard of lap 
being 290 grains per yard. These laps 
are put up at the ribbon lap machine 
and doubled 6 into 1, the weight per 
yard of lap being 275 grains. 

AT THE COMBER 
the laps are doubled 6 into 1 and the 
weight per yard of the sliver is 40 
grains per yard. For this class of 
goods 16 per cent of waste is taken 
out. Keep the leather top rolls in good 
condition and well varnished and the 
comber free from dirt. At the draw- 
ing frames the doublings at the break- 
er are 8 into 1 and at the finisher 6 
into 1. This is not the case in all 
mills, as the number of doublings used 
varies. The weight per yard at the 
finisher drawing is 70 grains. This 
is put through the slubber and made 
into .60 hank roving. The slubber rov- 
ing for the 30s and 35s yarn is made 
into 2 hank roving at the intermediate 
fly frame and 6.50 at the fine frame. 
The hank roving for the 48s is 2.50 at 
the intermediate and 9.50 at the fine 
frame. 

THE SIZING 

of the cotton should be as follows: At 
pickers, every lap and a variation of 
not more than one-half a pound from 
standard weight allowed; at the card 
once a week; at sliver and ribbon lap 
once a day; at drawing frame four 
times a day; at slubber once a week, 
at intermediate once a week, and at 
fine frame once a day. 

The roving for 30s selvage yarn is 
made on a frame having a 6^-inch 
traverse, 1%-inch diameter of ring, 
26.02 twist per inch and a spindle 



speed of 9,800 revolutions per minute; 
for the 35s the same conditions exist 
except that a 11-inch diameter ring is 
used, a 28.10 twist per inch and a spin- 
dle speed of 10,300 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then spooled and 
warped and put through a slasher. The 
filling yarn may be either mule or 
ring spun; if the latter, use a frame 
having a l^-inch diameter ring, 5^- 
inch traverse, 25.98 twist per inch and 
a spindle speed of 8,400 revolutions per 
minute. This yarn is then conditioned, 
after which it is ready for the loom. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BRONZE. 
Five per cent pyrol bronze; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

GREEN. 
Six per cent pyrol green G.; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

BLUE. 
Six per cent pyrol blue B.; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

OLIVE. 

Two per cent immedial indone B.; 6 
per cent immedial yellow D.; ^ per 
cent immedial catechine G.; 9 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
25 per cent salt. 

WINE. 
Eight per cent diamine Bordeaux B.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red BB.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent katigen indigo B.; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent thion black TB.; 2 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue FF.; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



669 



SEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent immedial green 
B.; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
«*» 

UNION LINEN LAWNS 

These fabrics, as the name implies, 
are made up of cotton and linen yarns. 
The cotton in most cases forms the 
warp and the linen is woven in as 
filling. 

Union linen lawns are plain woven 
fabrics made in various textures in re- 
gard to ends and picks per inch, and 
also the quality and counts of yarn. 

The goods are used or various pur- 
poses, principal among which are fur- 
niture coverings, summer outing suits 
and dusters. The goods, when used 
for the above purposes, are usually fin- 
ished without . bleaching. The cotton 
yarn is usually dyed to match the col- 
or of the unfinished linen warp or fill- 
ing, as the case may be. 

The fabric as used for household 
purposes is usually finished white or 
bleached. 

CLASSIFICATION AND ORIGIN. 

Woven fabrics may be divided into 
three classes, generally speaking, and 
from these there are derived all the 
various weaves now in use, with the 
possible exception of the leno weave, 
which may be placed in a class sep- 
arate from the three foundation 
weaves, to wit, the plain weave or cot- 
ton weave, second, the twill weave, and 
third, the satin weave. The first nam- 
ed in the division covers a greater 
variety of fabrics than the combined 
number of the latter two, the weave 
in connection with the kind and qual- 
ity of yarn and also the texture. Not- 
withstanding that there may be sev- 
eral textures in any particular fabric, 
these are the distinguishing features 
that characterize the wide range of 
cotton fabrics. 

The origin of the name is derived 
sometimes from the city or country 
in which the fabric was first made, or 
from the name of the maker; or, 
again, it may be given to the fabric 
from the nature of the material of 



which it is made, as, for example, 
union linen lawns; the name lawn im- 
plies that the fabric is plain woven. 
In 

THE CONSTRUCTION 

of these fabrics there is considerable 
latitude in regard to ends and picks 
per inch and counts of yarn. Some 
grades of linen lawns are made up 
very firmly, again others may be con- 
structed rather loosely. 
ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; 
width of fabric, finished, 36 inches; 
ends per inch, finished, 60; ends in 
warp, 2,160; ends in selvages, 20; to- 
tal, 2,180. 

Reed, 27% x 2; take-up of warp dur- 
ing weaving about 8 per cent; warp, 
l-40s cotton. 

Filling, l-20s linen, 300 yards per 
hank; 56 picks. 

Analysis of a coarser grade of union 
linen lawn: width of warp in reed, 37% 
inches; width of fabric, finished, 36 
inches; ends per inch, finished, 52; 
ends in warp, 1,872; ends in selvages, 
16; total, 1,888. 

Reed, 25 x 2; warp, l-30s cotton. 

Filling, 80s linen, 300 yards per 
hank; 50 picks per inch; take-up dur- 
ing weaving, 10 per cent. 

Fig. 1 weave. 

Fig. 2 drawing-in draft. 

amnmamam 
mauamama 
amamumam 

mamamama 

□■DBDBCM 

unmamama 

DBQBOBOB 

■nanaaaa 
Fig. 1. 

□DnDDDDB 

□oaauDBa 
□anaaBDd 

DDDDBDDD 

DDQBooaa 

□DBDQDQa 
□■aOODDD 

maaaaaaa 
Fig. 2. 

WEAVING AND FINISHING. 

Fabrics used for dress goods, that 
is, outer garments, require more at- 
tention in the weaving than almost any 
other class of fabrics. The goods 
should be woven faultlessly, or, if the 
fabric has any faults, these must be 
mended so as not to show in the finish- 
ed fabric; otherwise the goods can 



670 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



only be sold as seconds and at a great- 
ly reduced price; consequently, a 
weaver has charge of but four looms 
on plain woven fabrics, intended 
for dress material. The looms used 
for these goods may be plain cam 
or roller looms, running at from 140 
to 160 picks per minute. The goods, 
after they come from the loom, are 
burled and mended, then boiled off if 
finished without bleaching, or they 
may be bleached, then pressed, made 
up into laps and are then ready for 
shipment. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Union linen lawn is composed of two 
fibres, linen and cotton, the warp yarn 
being cotton and the filling yarn linen. 
Several grades of this fabric are made, 
two of which are taken for example. 
In these two the warp yarn is l-40s for 
the fine and l-30s for the coarser fab- 
ric. These yarns are made in the 
same division of mills and, in fact, the 
same mills make the two classes of 
fabric. Where this is the case, 

THE DIFFERENT PROCESSES, 
weights per yard, etc., are the same 
up to a certain point. We will consid- 
er the two counts to be made of the 
same staple and grade of cotton, which 
would be 1%-inch staple peeler cotton. 
The bales should be opened, stapled 
and graded before being put into the 
mixing, which may be done either by 
hand or by machine, that done by the 
bale breaker being better, because it 
opens the cotton more thoroughly. 
The good sliver from the machines up 
to the slubber is mixed in at this point 
either as it is collected, or as is often 
done, on mixing days. The cotton is 
put through three processes of picking 
and an opener. 

AT THE OPENER 
the general instructions given in pre- 
vious articles should be followed. At 
the breaker picker the type of beater 
used may be either a pin or three-blad- 
ed, rigid type. The speed of the pin 
beater is 1,200 revolutions per minute 
and of the three-bladed type 1,000 rev- 
olutions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front of this machine is 40 



pounds or a 16-ounce lap. At the In- 
termediate picker the speed of a three- 
bladed beater is 975 revolutions per 
minute, the doublings being 4 into 1. 
The total weight of lap at the front of 
this machine is 37 *£ pounds or 15 
ounces per yard. At the finisher picker 
the doubling is 5 into 1. The speed of 
a two-bladed, rigid type of beater is 
1,425 revolutions per minute. The to- 
tal weight of a 40-yard lap is 33 pounds 
or a 13-ounce lap. At this machine 
the cut -roving waste laps are mixed in 
the proportion of three laps of good 
cotton to one lap of cut waste. It is 

GENERALLY THE CUSTOM 
to prepare these laps at the interme- 
diate picker. At the card the draft 
should not exceed 100 and the speed 
of the licker-in is 350 revolutions per 
minute. The wire fillet used should be 
that used for medium counts of yarn, 
or No. 110s or cylinders and No. 120s 
for doffer and top flats. The speed 
of the top flats (110 to set) snould 
be one complete revolution ev- 
ery 50 minutes. The weight of the end 
sliver at the front should be 45 grains 
per yard and the production 650 
pounds per week of 60 hours. Strip 
cards three times a day and grind once 
every three weeks. After grinding, set 
all important parts. Clean out fly at 
regular intervals for this class of 
work, it being done twice a day. 
Watch the strips from the top flats 
to see how they are working. Always 
have plenty of 

SPARE BANDS 

on hand so that if one breaks another 

may be put on without loss of time. 

Always see that the brackets used for 

the stripping brush are properly set 

for both doffer and cylinder and also 

see that they are properly stripped by 

the card attendants, for too often they 

are only half stripped if they are not 

watched. The yarn used for this class 

of goods is combed, and at the sliver 

lap the weight per yard is 290 grains, 

the doublings being 14 into 1. At 

the ribbon lap the doublings are 6 into 

1, and the weight of a yard of lap is 

270 grains per yard. 

At the comber the doublings 
are 6 into 1 and 16 per cent of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



671 



waste is taken out. The weight of 
the sliver at the coiler is 50 grains 
per yard. Follow the particulars for 
setting, timing and varnishing the rolls 
as given in a previous article. The 
doublings at the breaker are 8 into 1, 
two processes of drawing being used. 
The weight per yard at the breaker 
drawing is 90 grains per yard. At the 
finisher drawing the doubling is 6 into 
1 and the weight per yard is 70 grains. 
At the slubber the drawing sliver is 
made into .60 hank roving. The yarn 
is next put through two processes of 
speeders or fly frames. At the first 
intermediate the hank roving is 2 and 
at the second or finishing speeder the 
hank roving is 6 for 30s yarn, and 8 
hank for 40s yarn. The roving is next 
taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM 

and spun into 30s on a frame having 
a 6%-inch traverse, 11-inch diameter 
ring, 26.02 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 9,800 revolutions per minute. 
For spinning 40s, a frame with a spin- 
dle speed of 10,000 revolutions per 
minute, 28.46 twist per inch, 11-inch 
diameter ring and 6^-inch traverse, is 
used. After being spun, the yarn is 
spooled and then run on a beam. Sev- 
eral of these beams are put up at the 
back of the slasher and after being 
slashed are run on a beam at the 
front. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
OLIVE. 
Five per cent pyrol olive G.; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
BRONZE. 
Five per cent pyrol bronze G.; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten per cent thiogene black M. 
cone; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 
2 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent thion black TBC; 1 
per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt 



ECRU. 
Three-quarters per cent thion brown 
G.; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Six per cent diamine fast red BB. ; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 

Five per cent immedial brown B. ; 5 
per cent immedial cutch O.; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 

One and one-half per cent thion blue 
B. cone; iy 2 per cent sulphide sodi- 
um; 1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent 
salt. Develop with peroxide of hydro- 
gen. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Eight per cent thion navy blue R. ; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. De- 
velop with peroxide of sodium. 



SATIN CHECKS 

Satin checks, so called, derive their 
name from the appearance of the pat- 
tern, which consists of variable block 
effects, usually equal in size in the 
same piece, on the plain weave basis. 

Some of the larger effects resemble 
checkerboards and are known as such. 
They are also known as dice checks. 

A satin check fabric made in Eng- 
land for the northwestern Africa ex- 
port trade is similar in construction 
and finish to the "herringbone" fabric, 
considered in a preceding article, and 
the data given there in connection 
with these items will also apply here. 

The weave principle upon which the 
cloth has been constructed may be 
seen in Fig: 1, which is composed of 
warp flush and filling flush weaves ar- 
ranged on the plain cloth base, four 
square sections completing the weave. 
In this case the complete weave is on 
48 x 48, each section being on 24 x 24. 

The base weaves used are the \ 

and the - — twills. 

The object in alternating blocks of 
warp flush weaves with blocks of fill- 



672 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ing flush weaves is to produce a cloth 
whereon the pattern seems to appear 
stronger when viewed in certain di- 
rections than when viewed in others, 
with two weaves that have the same 
structure, although differing in appear- 
ance. This principle is developed on an 
extended scale in white damask table- 
cloths. 

The shadow effect seen in these 



□PEBEBDODCOB 

*a^a»aannBUQ 



times \ 5aiL_BBDDBDna 
' »b*§QHBBSQS5 



DQDDD 

cano. BQBBBBB 
DDaDBLDBDBBBB 
QQDBDOaBDBBB 
DaBDDOBBBDBB 
'JBDDDDBBBBDB 
BDDDDDBBBBBa 



4 times 

Fig. 1. 



4 times 4 times 

Fig. 2. 



( DBBBBBDDDDDB 
\ BDBBBBDDDDBD 
) BBDBBBDDDBDD 
4 time. ) BBBDBBDaBDDQ 
f BBBBDBDBDDDD 
. BBBBBDBDDODD 
* DDDODBOBBBBB 
( DOODBDBDBBBB 
nQOBODBBOBBB 
DDBDDGBBBCBB 

~jmannaw ~ 

IOQOODI 



ft times 



BBBCDBCBDnnC/ 

BBBBBGaaaaoa 

OBBBBBDDDDDB 

BOBBBBDOUDBD 

BBOBBBDODBar 

. BBlDBBDGBr - - 

; DaaBDD — " 




goods is an optical illusion, due to the 
reflection of the light after it falls on 
the filling, being at a different angle 
to that reflected from the warp, both 
being viewed from the same position. 
The larger the section and the greater 
the proportion of one yarn as com- 



pared to the other in the same, the 
more lustrous will be the general ap- 
pearance of the goods. 

Fig. 2 shows the harness draft and 
Fig. 3 the chain draft for producing 
the weave. Fig. 2 is known as a sec- 
tional drawing-in draft. 

One of the principal points to be 
noted in the construction of these 
weaves is to make the warp floats of 
each section oppose the filling floats 
of the adjoining sections, both warp 
and filling way If this is not done, a 
ragged or indistinct pattern will re- 
sult, in addition to the cloth not having 
as firm a feel. 

Another point is that it is advisable 
to arrange the base weaves in such 
positions that although there are four 
sections in each repeat of the weave, 
the two filling flush sections will be 
exactly alike and the two warp sec- 
tions alike, whenever possible. 

This may perhaps be better under- 
stood by reference to Figs. 1 and 4. 
Fig. 4, although composed of the same 
base weaves as Fig. 1, would not make 
as clean and even an appearance in the 
cloth as the latter 

A satin check made with Fig. 5 
would be preferable to one made with 
Fig. 6, other conditions being equal. 
Both of these weaves are built up from 
broken crow weave bases and cut 
on all sides. 

Weave Fig. 7 would be preferable 
to weave Fig. 8. Both are made from 
the same 8-end satin weave bases, 
started in different relative positions. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Being woven white and with one 
count of filling only a single box dob- 
by'loom is generally used when weav- 
ing these goods. The two base weaves., 
one warp flush and the other filling 
flush, are seldom made on more than 
8 ends and 8 picks each, therefore a 
16-harness dobby, with a selvage mo- 
tion extra, is large enough to allow 
ample scope for producing a variety of 
patterns. An 18 or 20 harness dobby 
should be used if there is no selvage 
motion on the loom. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



673 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

As the fabric considered is similar 
in construction and finish to that de- 
scribed under "Herringbone Stripes," 
the carding and spinning data need 
not be repeated. 

ammnrnmrnnaamaCiDm 
DIIIDIGIODCIDD 
BGBBaGBBGGBCL'CBG 
■ ■■DKMUBQLQHDDO 
OBBBGaBaOODBGOOa 
■■aBBBDBDBDDDBDD 

bgbbbgbb gbgggbg 

■BBaBBBUBDDDBDDD 
DDDBDDDBCBBBCBBB 
DBaDDBDDBBDBBBDB 
GGBuGOBQBGBBBCBB 
BDDDBDDDBBBCBBBa 
DDDBLJDDBDBBBDBBB 
nBDDDBDDBBDBBBDB 
aDBDDDBDBDBBBDBB 
BDDDBDaDBBBDBBBa 

Fig. 5. 

DBBBCBBBnnaBnnDB 

BDBBBDBBDDBGnOBa 
BBBQBBBOBOOQBOOa 
■BaBBBaBOBODDBDa 
OBBBDBBBDDDBDDOB 
BDBBBDBBnDBDDDBa 
BBBDBBBOBl DDBDOQ 
BBDBBBDBDBDDDBaS 
DDBDaDBDBDBBBUBB 
□ODBDDDBDBBBDBBB 
CBG [.Ha-'IlIII-I 
BDDDBODDBBBDBBBO 
DDBDDDBDBDBBBDBB 
PDDBDDDBDBBBDWBB 
DBDDDBDaBBDBBBDB 
BDDDBDDDBBBDBBBIJ 

Fig. 6. 

BBBBBDBBnDBanDDD 
DBBBBBBBDDDDOCDB 
BBBDBBBBDDQDBDDD 
BBBBBBDBDBauDDag 
BDBBBBaBDnDaanBD 
BBBBDBBBDDQBDDDD 
BflBBBBBDBDDDDDng 
BBQBBBBB. DDOOBDD 
DDBDDDDCBBBBBDBB 
DDDDaDDBDBBBBBBB 
DDQ BO "OBBBGBBJB 
DBaDGDODBBBBBBDB 
OannDDBDBDBBBBBB 
□DGBDDC:DBBBBDBBB 
BDDDDDGOBBBBBBBg 
DGCDDBaDBBDBBBBB 

Fig. 7. 

DBBBBBBBGnDDGGDB 
BBBGBBBB-: GGGBCGG 

■■■■■■aBOBGGrcga 

BGBBBBBBPGGOrGBG 
BBBBGBBBGGGBaGGG 
BBBBBBBGBGDaGGGG 
BBaBBBBBGGGQ BGG 
BBBBBCBBODBGGQDG 
DaQaaBGCBBDBBBBB 

BGBGGGGGaBBBBGBB 
GaaaDGBDBBBBBBB 
OGGOBaaOBBBGBBBB 
DBGaaaDGBBBBBBGB 

□aaaaQBDBaBBBBBB 
aanBaaoaBBBBQKBB 

■DGDOGaGBBBBBBBG 
Fig. 8 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BRONZE. 
Five per cent pyrol bronze; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
GREEN. 
Six per cent pyrol green G.; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 



BLUE. 
Six per cent pyrol blue B.; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
OLIVE. 
Two per cent immedial indone B.; 6 
per cent immedial yellow D. ; y 2 per 
cent immedial catechine G.; 9 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
25 per cent salt. 

WINE. 
Eight per cent diamine Bordeaux 
B.; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent 
salt. 

RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red BB.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent katigen indigo B.; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent thion black TB.; 2 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue FF.; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
SEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent immedial green 
B.; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 



NANKEEN, or NANKIN 

Nankeen, or nankin, pronounced 
nan-ken, is a name given to a class of 
fabrics woven with the plain weave, 
the distinguishing effect of which is 
their peculiar yellowish brown color. 
This color is natural to the cotton of 
which they are made, the religiosum 
variety of the gossypium herbaceum 
class. 

The goods are worn by Chinese peo- 
ple in all parts of the world. 

The original nankeen fabric derived 
its name from Nanking, the ancient 
Chinese city, now known as the 
"southern capital," being first con- 
structed there from a native cotton. 
The pure nankeen fabric is fin- 
ished and woven in the natural 



674 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



color and is of Chinese manufacture. 
The raw cotton is rough, short and 
hard to work, so much so that the 
supply of cotton of this type and color 
grown is not enough to supply the de- 
mand for the woven goods. For the 
last half century or more large quanti- 
ties of so-called nankeen fabrics of 
British manufacture have been, and 
are being to-day, exported to China, 
the principal market for the same be- 
ing at Canton. These goods are woven 
white and subsequently dyed the re- 
quired color, dyers being able to imi- 
tate the qualities of the original nan- 
keen color in all respects. 

KINO, 

pronounced ke-no, was one of the 
drugs formerly used for giving nan- 
keen color. Its chief component part 
is tannic acid. 

Nankeen fabrics, deriving ■ their 
name more particularly from their pe- 
culiar color, are made to vary to some 
extent in counts of yarns and con- 
structions of cloth, although being 
kept to medium counts and weights. 

A characteristic fabric is made as 
follows: Counts of warp, 26s; counts 
of filling, 22s; ends per inch, 68; picks 
per inch, 64; width, 27 inches finished. 

At the present time nankeen fabrics 
are not necessarily those made exclu- 
sively of cotton. A sample under con- 
sideration is made from silk scrapings 
or waste and cotton warp, mixed be- 
fore going through the preparing ma- 
chines, and silk waste filling. The 
mixed fibres in the warp appear later 
in the same yarn, the yarn being sin- 
gle spun. The fabric is very uneven, 
more so in the filling than in the warp, 
but quite uneven in both. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Like other plain cloths, a light, quick 
running plain cam loom is used for 
their production. Woven a solid col- 
or, one warp and one shuttle only are 
required. The ends are reeded two in 
a dent throughout. 

FINISHING. 

Very little finishing is required for 
the pure goods. After being burled 
and brushed they are sheared or sing- 



ed, or both, crabbed, washed, dried 
and made up as required. 

Imitation nankeens, in addition to 
the above, are subjected to the proc- 
ess of dyeing. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For carding and spinning particu- 
lars see article on "Tartan Plaids," 
the counts of yarns for nankeen be- 
ing similar to those explained in said 
article. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

This class of goods is dyed on the 
gigger dyeing machine in the open 
width. The method of dyeing is to 
take the thoroughly boiled and wet out 
goods and roll smoothly on the first 
roll of the gigger. Sew the leaders on 
with smooth, flat seams, then fill the 
machine with water about six inches 
above the inside rolls; heat to the re- 
quired temperature and add *4 to y 2 
of the dissolved dye (for light shades 
it is best to add the color in four por- 
tions; for medium or dark shades, the 
dye may be added in two portions). 
Then start the machine and pass the 
cloth through the liquor onto the op- 
posite roll, add more of the dye and 
return; repeat until shade desired is 
produced. 

A fine nankeen shade may be dyed 
with the following dyes: 

No. 1. Dye with 3 per cent extract 
fustic; 3 per cent alum. Boil together 
and add to dye-bath in four portions, 
dyeing at 120 degrees F. 

No. 2. Dye with 1-10 per cent diam 
fast yellow B.; 0.08 per cent diam cate- 
chine G. ; 0.015 per cent diam catechine 
B. ; 1 per cent soda; 2 per cent soap. 
Start dyeing at 100 degrees F., heating 
slowly to 180 degrees F., then add 5 
per cent Glauber's salts in two por- 
tions and run to shade. 

No. 3. Dye with 2 per cent immedi- 
al orange O; 1 per cent katigen brown 
GG.; 3 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 
per cent Turkey red oil. Start dyeing 
at 100 degrees F., heat to 180 degrees 
F. slowly, and run to shade. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



675 



MUSLIN— Foundation Muslin 

Foundation muslin is a fabric used 
to impart stiffness to parts of gar- 
ments, principally light-weight dresses 
of lawn or goods of similar character 
used for graduation and other pur- 
poses. It is loosely woven and of very 
light weight. The requisite body is 
imparted to it in the finishing process 
by one or more stiffening ingredients. 

The cloth is woven plain. The ends 
are drawn single through the heddles 
and reeded two in each dent, with the 
possible exception of the selvage ends. 

The analysis of a characteristic 
foundation muslin shows the following 
data: Ends per inch, 72; picks per 
inch, 68; counts of warp, 110; counts 
of filling, 120; finished width, 31% 
inches; weight, 20 yards per pound. 
The selvages consist of 12 ends of 60s 
yarn on each side, reeded 3 ends per 
dent. The counts of yarns here stated 
are as found in the finished cloth. All 
the yarns are somewhat hard twisted 
and are free from loose fibres. 

CALCULATIONS. 

31% inches times 36 equals 1,134 dents 
occupied by the warp; 1,134 minus 8 
for selvages equals 1,126 dents; 1,126 
times 2 equals 2,252 ends of 110s warp; 
8 times 3 equals 24 ends of 60s warp; 
2,276, total ends. 

To find weight of warp in 100 yards 
of cloth, assuming 10 per cent contrac- 
tion in length from warp to cloth of 
the fine yarn and 5 per cent contrac- 
tion of the coarse yarn: 



72 (sley) — 1 = 71. 
71 -h 2.1 (constant) 

In reed. 
1,134 h- 33.82 = 33.53 in., width in reed. 



2,252 x 110 (length) 



110 (cc 


mnts) x 


840 


24 


x 105 


= .05 


60 


x 840 


2.681 
.05 


pounds 
pound i 


110s. 

30s. 



2.681 lbs. of 110s warp. 



= .05 pound of 60s warp. 



2.731 pounds, total weight of warp. 

The 60s warp has been considered as 
having been run from spools, separate 
from the main warp. 

To find weight of filling in 100 yards 
of cloth: 



33.82 dents per inch 

n., v 
68(pks) x 33.53 x 100 (length) 



120 (counts) x 840 



2.261 lbs. 
filling. 



In the preceding calculation the gray 
and finished widths of the cloth have 
been assumed to be equal, the cloth 
having been stretched but little, and 
tentered to the full width, in the proc- 
ess of finishing. The finished width of 
most fabrics is less than the loom or 
gray cloth width, requiring that the 
difference between them be taken into 
consideration when ascertaining the 
amount of filling required. 

To find number of yards per pound: 

2.731 pounds warp. 
2.261 pounds filling. 



4.992 pounds, total weight. 
100 -h 4.992 = say, 20 yards per pound. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

A light, fast running, single box cam 
loom is preferable for these goods, the 
ends being drawn through twine har- 
nesses on account of the large num- 
ber of ends and picks per inch and fine 
yarn. Being a very light, sheer fabric, 
considerable care has to be taken with 
it in weaving to prevent misweaves of 
all kinds, particularly thick and thin 
places, and broken ends and picks. 

FINISHING. 

This process is really the one which 
makes the characteristic qualities of 
foundation muslin as distinct from 
other plain woven goods. A fabric of 
the construction mentioned, being sim- 
ilar in all respects except in the finish, 
would not be known by the same name 
if finished differently. In fact, many 
of the cotton fabrics derive their name 
from the finishing process to which 
they have been subjected, irrespective 
of the construction of the cloths. The 
purpose for which it is to be used de- 
termines, to a more or less degree, the 
construction and quality of plain wo- 
ven cloths. 

Foundation muslins are usually wo- 
ven in natural coir, after which they 
are bleached and finished white, some- 
what as follows: Burl, singe, bleach, 
size with gum or gum "tragasol," con- 
dition, calender and make up. 



676 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



When required in colors, the goods 
are dyed in the piece. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BLACK. 

Eight per cent union black S.; 1 per 
cent diamine fast yellow A.; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 
2 per cent soap. Top with alizarine 
black 4 B. 

SEA GREEN. 

One-half per cent diamine black 
HW.; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow 
B.; topped with new methylene blue 
N.; new phosphine G. 

For 10 gallons dye-liquor: 6 ounces 
soap; % ounce sal soda; 3 ounces 
phosphate soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Three per cent diamine dark blue 
B.; 1 per cent diamine brilliant blue 
G.; topped with new methylene blue 
NX.; metaphenylene blue B.; indigo 
blue N. 

PEARL. 

Two ounces diamine gray G.; 1-16 
ounce diamine brown M.; topped with 
aniline gray B. 

SLATE. 

Ten ounces diamine gray G.; $ 
ounce diamine brown M.; topped with 
cyanol extra; orange extra. 
LIGHT MAUVE. 
One ounce diamine violet N.; % 
ounce diamine brilliant blue G. ; top- 
ped with methyl violet BI. 
VIOLET. 
One per cent diamine violet N.; % 
per cent diamine brilliant blue G.; 
topped with methyl violet BI. 
PINK. 
Two per cent diamine rose BD.; 
topped with rhodamine G. . 
SKY BLUE. 
Four ounces diamine sky blue FF.; 
topped with cyanol extra. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
One per cent diamine brown B.; *£ 
per cent diamine yellow B.; topped 



with Bismarck brown FF.; thioflavine 
T. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 

Two per cent diamine black HW.; 2 
per cent diamine green B.; 1 per cent 
diamine fast yellow B.; topped with 
brilliant green; new methylene blue 

N. 

CREAM. 

One-quarter ounce diamine gold; *4 
ounce diamine orange B.; 1-16 ounce 
diamine fast yellow B. 
STEEL. 

One-eighth ounce diamine gray G.; 
topped with cyanol extra; aniline gray 
B. 



SILENCE CLOTH— Filling Backed 



Silence cloth, or table felting, is a 
heavy cotton fabric used to cover the 
table, under the linen cloth, for the 
purpose of preventing damage to the 
finish of the table and to make the 
cloth look whiter. 

Standard widths of these goods are 
54 and 64 inches. 

In order to make heavy, thick, firm 
fabrics it becomes necessary to depart 
from single cloth structures and inter- 
lace the yarns on one or other of the 
compound weave principles, such as 
backed, double or heavier ply cloths. 
In these fabrics some of the yarns, 
while forming part of the structure, 
may appear only in the center or the 
back, not showing on the face. 
THE SIMPLEST FORM 
of these is either a warp-backed or 
filling-backed fabric, the former of 
which was shown in the article on 
"Cotton Cassimeres." 

Filling -backed fabrics, especially 
those of the reversible type, i. e., those 

BDDO 

■■aa 

DDDffl 

■ OH 

noma 
cmrnm 
Offioa 
■■■a 

Fig. L 

with the face and back similar, that 

are made with filling flush weaves, are 

excellently adapted for making silence 

cloths, because a heavy nap is required 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



677 



on both sides of the fabric and this 
can be obtained best by using soft 
yarn. The nap is obtained principally 
with the filling yarns, which are soft 
and coarse, as warp yarn must have 
considerably more twist than is re- 
quired for filling in order that it may 
withstand the wear and tear of the 
movements caused by the heddles and 
reed during weaving. 

Fig. 1 shows a weave for a filling- 
backed fabric with a - — § twill on 
each side. Marks a represent the face 
weave; solid type represents the back 
weave. 

A cloth woven with this design 
would show the warp on both sides, 
when in the gray, but only one-half of 
the filling on each side. 

The individualities of the yarns are 
lost in the finishing process; in silence 
cloths, therefore, such a cloth, if wo- 
ven with Fig. 1, picked one pick white 
and one pick color, would have a white 
surface on one side and a colored one 
on the other. As the loose fibres of the 
filling would practically cover the 
warp, the color of the latter would be 
of little consequence. On the score of 
economy it would be best to have it 
white 

THE ANALYSIS 
of a silence cloth, before finishing, 
shows it to have been constructed as 
follows: Ends per inch, 68; picks per 
inch, 40 (20 on the face and 20 on 
the back) ; warp counts, 11.6, probably 
intended for 11.5; filling counts, 2%; 
width, 58 inches; weight, 1.45 pounds 
per yard; weave, Fig. 1. This cloth 
would finish 54 inches. 

The warp has contracted 18 per cent 
in length. The filling lies straight, 
showing little, if any, shrinkage from 
loom to cloth. It is soft twisted, con- 
taining but five turns per Inch. 

Very heavy silence cloths are con- 
structed on the double or higher ply 
cloth principles. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
For weaving filling-backed silence 
cloths a heavy loom is required. Al- 
though they may be woven on cam 
looms, a dobby would be preferable, 
unless it was certain that the same 
pattern would be run on the loom con- 



tinually. One warp and one shuttle 
only are required. On account of the 
coarse filling and the width of the 
cloth, the shuttles should be large. 
FINISHING. 
The processes of bleaching and nap- 
ping constitute practically all the fin- 
ishing these goods receive, being wo- 
ven and finished white. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Silence cloth is made up of yarns, 
which are made in the first division of 
mills, as given in a previous article. 
The counts of yarn vary according to 
the weight of the cloth and in the 
sample that has been taken for de- 
scription are as follows: ll%s for fill- 
ing and 2.75s for warp. These yarns 
are soft twisted to allow them to be 
easily brushed, so as to cause a short 
soft nap. The yarns are made of short 
stock, but as a general rule, waste (ex- 
cept cut-roving waste) does not enter 
into the mixing. The staple used would 
be about I to I inch in length. The 
mixing should be large and at each 
mixing the cut-roving waste laps 
should be mixed in. Mixing for this 
class of goods is done by hand, and it 
is the general rule to work for produc- 
tion and not for quality, as a great 
many defects are covered up in the 
brushing of the cloth. 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 
are used. The mixing after being al- 
lowed to stand is fed to the feeders. 
The seeds, fly, etc., should be taken 
out at regular intervals and care tak- 
en to see that the pin beater is proper- 
ly set so that the correct amount of 
cotton will be fed to the breaker pick- 
er, to which the opener is generally 
attached. The beater of this picker is 
generally of a two-bladed, rigid type, 
and for this stock its speed is 1,550 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front should 
be about 40 pounds or a 16% -ounce 
lap. At the finisher picker the dou- 
bling is four into one, the speed of the 
beater, 1,500 revolutions per minute, 
and the total weight of the lap 39 
pounds, or a 14% -ounce lap. A varia- 
tion of not over 8 ounces either side 



678 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



of standard total weight should be 
allowed. Care should be taken to see 
that the drafts are properly directed, 
so as to make an even lap that does 
not have a tendency to split or lick 
up. The eveners should be properly 
looked after to see that they are work- 
ing properly and the dirt, seed, etc., 
cleaned from under and about the 
machines at regular intervals. If pos- 
sible the pickers should be run so that 
they may be stopped as early as pos- 
sible in the week, so as to clean out 
the cages, feed rolls, etc. 

AT THE CARDS 
the draft should not exceed 95, and 
the wire fillet used on the cylinder 
should be No. 90s and on the doffer 
and top flats No. 100s. Grind and clean 
cards as given in previous articles. The 
settings of the different parts of the 
cards should be the same as those giv- 
en for indigo prints in a previous ar- 
ticle. The weight of the sliver should 
be 65 grains per yard, and the produc- 
tion from 800 to 1,000 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. For this class of goods 
two processes of drawing frames are 
used. The frames may be fitted with 
either leather covered or metallic top 
rolls; generally speaking, the former 
are preferred for various reasons. The 
doublings are 8 into 1, and the weight 
of the sliver at the finisher drawing 
frame is 75 grains per yard. The speed 
of the front roll is 400 revolutions per 
minute. 

At the slubber the sliver is made in- 
to .40 hank. For 

THE WARP YARN 
this is spun into 2.75 (single) soft 
twist. For the filling yarn there is 
one process of fly frame at which the 
slubber roving is made into 1.25 hank. 
The setting of the rolls should be look- 
ed after to see that they are properly 
spread and that the top rolls are in 
good condition. The speeder or fly 
frames should be scoured at least once 
a year. After passing the fly frame 
the roving is made into 11.5s, being 
put in single, on a frame having a 
7-inch traverse, lg-inch diameter ring 
and spindle speed of 6,500 revolutions 
per minute. This yarn is also soft 
spun. 



ORLEANS LININGS 



Orleans linings refer to a class of 
goods, of various qualities and pat- 
terns, having a cotton warp and wor- 
sted filling. They are used principally 
for lining the heavier garments for 
outer and winter wear, and are seen 
in black and all the fashionable 
shades. A large proportion are made 
with the 5 -end twill, - — j , ground, 
Fig. 1, the selvage being woven plain, 
or with two picks in a shed and catch 



OQDCM 
DDDHD 
DDBDD 
DBDQQ 

■uooa 

Pig. 1. 



thread on the outside. 

The cheapest grades are woven 
white, then piece-dyed in solid colors. 
Better grades have warp dyed yarns, 
the filling in the same being woven 
white and dyed to match the warp after 
it leaves the loom. By this method 
cotton warp yarns of two colors may 
be used, say black and white, the black 
being used for the body of the cloth 
and the white for the selvages, the 
dyes used for the wool not affecting 
the cotton to any appreciable extent. 

Advertising has educated the retail 




Fig. 2. 

dealers and consumers to the fact that 
cotton warp goods with a white sel- 
vage, the ground being of color, are 
more to be depended upon not to 
crock than similar cloths of solid 
color. 

The worsted filling used is of a nat- 
urally lustrous type, which is capable 
of being made more lustrous by the 
finishing process. The yarns are re- 
quired to be of good quality in order 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



679 



to finish and make up satisfactorily. 
Fig. 2 illustrates a characteristic 
Orleans lining, unfinished, containing 
three counts, colors and qualities of 
warp yarns. The ground warp is 
of a dark slate color (probably 
intended for black). This is of 
30s counts, is reeded 3 ends per 
dent, and weaves as shown in Fig. 

1. The section just inside the selvage 
is solid white, is of 3-ply 100s counts, 
is reeded 8 ends per dent, and weaves 
two picks in a shed ; there are 24 white 
ends on each side. The selvages prop- 
er consist of 16 ends of 3-ply 60s black 
cotton on each side and are reeded 4 
ends per dent; they weave plain. The 
selvage ends are drawn 2 as 1 through 
each heddle; the remainder of the 
ends are drawn single. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

The construction of the cloth is 80 
square, i. e., 80 ends and 80 picks per 
inch. 

The fabric under consideration, Fig. 

2, would require 9 harnesses, 5 for the 
ground, 2 for the white warp and 2 for 
the selvages, and could be handled 
best on a dobby loom. By exceptional 
care in beaming the yarn it would be 
possible to put the three counts of 
warp on the same beam, but it is not 
advisable to do so for various reasons. 
One is that the 3-100s yarn, being so 
crowded in the reed, would under nor- 
mal conditions take up faster than the 
ground warp and thereby become tight- 
er. Being 3-ply yarn of good quality it 
might stand the strain of weaving all 
right, but would not stretch to any ex- 
tent in finishing. If the ground cloth 
was stretched to its limit in finishing, 
the white yarn would be liable to break 
during that process. For the best 
results it would be advisable to run 
the white and selvage yarns from 
spools, and the ground warp from the 
main beam. The white yarn should be 
run with a minimum amount of ten- 
sion. 

The white ends in this sample are so 
crowded in the reed as to cover the 
filling entirely; these would show solid 
white even after the filling was dyed 
to match the ground warp. It is 
something out of the ordinary to have 



such an elaborate selvage as this on 
a lining fabric, the general run of the 
goods having a solid color ground and 
a few white ends for selvage. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

For ordinary lining fabrics where 
the ground weave does not occupy 
more than 5 harnesses, a cam loom 
with a selvage motion would be the 
best to use. A loom weaving 5 ends 
sateen could readily be changed over 
to weave a 5-end twill by changing the 
order of treading the cams, or, if the 
cams are cast in one piece, by chang- 
ing the order of tying up the har- 
nesses. One shuttle only is required. 
FINISHING. 

The finishing process consists of 
burling, singeing, crabbing, dyeing, 
drying and shearing and pressing on 
hydraulic press. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Orleans linings are made up of 
worsted and cotton yarns. The counts 
of these vary accoiding to the grade of 
the lining desired. The cotton warp 
yarns of the sample analyzed are: 
main warp 30s, section just inside 
the selvages, 3-100s, and the sel- 
vage itself 3-60s. These counts 
of yarn are made in the third division 
of mills as given in a previous article. 
While the count of the main yarn is 
only what may be called a medium 
count, still, it is made in mills where 
fine counts are made. It must be un- 
derstood that while the mills making 
fine count yarns may and do make low 
or coarse count yarns, the medium and 
low count mills cannot make high 
count yarns with equal success. 

FOR THE YARNS 
in the fabric to be described, three 
different lengths of staple cotton are 
used. These are mixed either by hand 
or with the bale breaker, the latter 
being the better method, because no 
matter how closely the laborers are 
watched, they do not break up the cot- 
ton as it should be done. The mixing 
should be allowed to stand as long as 
possible in order to dry out. Three 
processes of pickers are used and the 
same beater speed may be used for the 



680 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



three different lengths of staple. At 
the breaker picker a two-bladed beater 
of the rigid type is generally used. The 
speed of this beater is 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute, care should be tak- 
en to have the feed rolls and cages 
taken out and cleaned at regular in- 
tervals, which should be as frequently 
as possible. Be careful to get a lap 
that does not split. The weight of the 
lap at the breaker picker should be 
about 40 pounds for all three staples. 
At 

THE INTERMEDIATE PICKER 
the laps are doubled 4 into 1. The 
speed of this beater is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front is 37% pounds. At 
the finisher picker the laps are 
doubled 4 into 1, and the speed of the 
beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight at the front may be 
the same for all staples or they may 
have different weights, according to 
the ideas of the ones in charge. If of 
different weights, the weight of the 
lap for the 30s yarn, which would be 
made out of 1% to 1 3-16 inch staple 
cotton would be 39 pounds or a 14%- 
ounce lap; for the 60s yarn (1 3-16 to 
1 5-16 inch staple), 35 pounds or a 
12 J -ounce lap; and for the 100s yarn 
(1% to 1| inch staple), 35 pounds or a 
12% -ounce lap. The staples of cotton' 
given above are for the fabric under 
description, and do not apply to all 
fabrics made up of the same counts 
of yarn. Look out for the drafts and 
see that the required number of laps 
are always up at the different proc- 
esses and also that 

THE EVENING MOTIONS 
are in perfect working order. A vari- 
ation of half a pound either side of 
the standard weight is allowed, but all 
laps that vary more than this should 
be run over again through the finisher 
picker. Look out to see that the pick- 
er tender on the finishers does not pull 
enough lap off of a heavy lap to make 
it the required weight. Enough laps 
should be made between Monday and 
Friday noontime to enable the cards 
to be run the rest of the week. This 
is so that the picker men may have 
time to clean the pickers and make 



all repairs on the machines that are 
required. 

THE CARDS 
should be equipped with fine counts of 
wire fillet. The draft at the card for 
the 30s yarn should not exceed 95, for 
the 60s, 100, and for the 100s not less 
than 100. The flats for the coarser 
yarn should make one complete revo- 
lution every 55 minutes, for the mid- 
dle count in 50 minutes, and for the 
fine count in 40 minutes. Grind, strip 
and set as described in previous arti- 
cles when these counts of yarns have 
been described. The weight per yard 
of the sliver should be 45 grains and 
the production 800 pounds for the 
1 . 3-16 inch staple, 700 pounds for 
1 5-16 inch staple and 550 pounds for 
lg-inch staple for a week of 60 hours. 
All the card sliver for this fabric Is 
combed. It is 

THE GENERAL METHOD 
to run the cotton in succession through 
the following machines: sliver lap, 
ribbon lap and comber, but a great 
many mill men nowadays prefer the 
following arrangement; one process 
drawing frame, sliver lap and comber. 
If the former method is used, the dou- 
bling at the sliver lap machine (for 
an 8%-inch width lap) is 14 into 1, and 
at the ribbon lap machine 6 into 1. 
The weight of the lap at the sliver lap 
machine is 295 grains per yard, and 
at the ribbon lap machine 275 grains 
per yard for 1 3-16 inch staple, 290 
grains at sliver lap and 275 grains at 
ribbon lap for 1 5-16 inch stock and 
280 grains and 265 grains for l|-inch 
stock. Size at ribbon lap once a day, 
kn allowance of five grains either side 
of standard weight being allowed be- 
fore changing draft gear. At the 
comber the doubling is according to 
the number of heads that comber con- 
tains (6 or 8). The usual setting and 
timings should be used. The per- 
centage of waste taken out at the 
comber is as follows: 15 for 1 3-16, 16 
for 1 5-16 and 18 to 20 for 1%-inch 
stocks. 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING 
are used, the doubling at the breaker 
being 8 into 1, and at the finisher 6 
into 1. The weight of the sliver at the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



681 



finisher drawing is 70 grains per yard 
for all the cotton. Size drawings four 
times a day, an allowance of 2 grains 
per yard either side of standard weight 
being allowed, before changing draft. 
At the slubber the sliver is made into 
.60 hank roving for all stocks. 

To make 30s yarn the cotton is put 
through two processes of fly frames. 
At the first intermediate, the hank rov- 
ing made is 2, and at the fine frame 6. 
This is made into 30s yarn on a warp 
spinning frame with a 21-inch traverse, 
l|-inch diameter ring, and a 6^ -inch 
bobbin. The yarn is then spooled, 
warped and put through the slashers. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING 
for the 60s yarn is put through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing being 1 at first intermediate, 3 at 
second intermediate and 12 at jack 
frame. This is spun into 60s yarn on 
a frame having the following particu- 
lars: 1%-inch diameter ring, 6-inch 
traverse, and spindle speed 10,000 rev- 
olutions per minute. 

The yarn is then spooled, made into 
3-ply yarn, spooled and run onto a sel- 
vage warp. 

The slubber roving for 100s yarn is 
also put through three processes of 
fly frames.- At the first intermediatr 
it is made into 2 hank, at the second 
into 6 hank, and at the fine or jack 
frame, 20 hank roving. This is spun 
into 100s on a spinning frame having r 
2% -inch gauge, l|-inch diameter ring, 
5-inch traverse and a spindle speed of 
9,400. 

After being made into 100s yarn it 
is spooled and twisted into three-ply 
yarn, after which it is spooled and 
warped and put through a slasher. 

At the sliver lap machine, ribbon lap 
machine, comber and drawing frame 
the leather top rolls have to De var- 
nished, and should be kept in perfect 
condition, both as to varnish and 
leather. 

THE VARNISH USED 
for the comber rolls should be of r 
heavier or rougher kind than that 
used for the other rolls. Several 
recipes for varnish have already been 
given, but the following will also be 
found an excellent one: For comber 



rolls use 8 ounces plate glue, 8 ounces 
ground gelatine, 12 ounces burnt sien- 
na, 1 ounce oil originum, 3 pints acetic 
acid, 1 pint water. For the other roll; 
use the same mixture, excepting that 
vermilion should be used instead of 
the burnt sienna. This will make a 
much smoother roll than the varnish 
used for the combers. Many also var- 
nish the front rolls of the slubber; 
when this is done the varnish used 
should be thinner than the others, be- 
ing thinned with the acetic acid. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Dyeing Orleans linings, as in all oth- 
er classes of goods, is done in a good 
many ways, according to the quality 
and the price the goods are sold at. A 
fine quality black Orleans is woven 
with a black warp, which will stand 
the after processes of finishing and 
dyeing, which are crabbing, scouring, 
singeing and steam lustering; then 
dyeing either with a logwood black on 
a chrome mordant or one of the blacks 
which dyes the worsted filling at one 
dip in an acid bath. If the goods have 
white cotton threads in the selvages, 
the dyer will select- one of the blackf 
which have no affinity for cotton in 
the acid bath. Dyestuffs suitable for 
the warps on this class of goods are 

THE SULPHUR BLACKS, 
which are sold under several names, 
but all dyed in the same manner in a 
bath composed of the dye, sodium sul- 
phide, soda ash and common salt or 
Glauber's salts. Another black suitable 
for this class of goods is the diamine 
blacks, developed. These blacks are 
dyed in the following manner: first 
the warps are dyed in a boiling bath 
with the diamine black and Glauber's, 
then treated in a cold bath with nitrite 
of soda and muriatic acid, then in a 
third cold bath with phenylenedia- 
mine. Fast slate shades are dyed the 
same as the blacks, only using about 
half the proportion of dyes and shad- 
ing with small portions of red or yel- 
low of the same group of dyes. Orleans 

FOR FANCY COLORS 
are woven with white cotton warps 
and worsted filling, which are dyed 



682 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



either with the direct colors, which 
dye the cotton and worsted at one 
bath, or the four-bath method. The 
first method consists in dyeing in a 
bath composed of the direct cotton 
and wool dyes which dye in a neutral 
bath with Glauber's salts 'at boil. The 
second method is to first dye the wor- 
sted filling with aniline dyes in a bath 
with acid and Glauber's salts. Wash 
well. Then treat the warps with tan- 
nic acid, or sumac, in a cold bath; 
then in a third bath, with tarta 
emetic, or one of the antimony salts; 
then in a fourth bath dye the warp 
to shade with basic dyestuff. The dye- 
ing of this class of goods, like that of 
all other goods dyed in the piece, re- 
quires considerable practice and skill. 



SHADOW CHECKS 

Shadow checks are a class of pat- 
terns of set check or block effects oil 
a very faint character. Viewed from 
certain directions, they appear to have 
a faint stripe or to be without pattern 
entirely. They are seen in apparel 
goods of various materials, from silk 
to cotton, and usually in plain, simple 
twill, or other small regular weave. 
The goods are always shown in white, 
black or solid color. 

Shadow checks are the faintest 
check effects that appear in woven 
goods, and are made by arranging a 
certain number of ends of yarn twist- 
ed to the right and a certain number 
twisted to the left, and picking the 
filling in a similar manner. For ex- 
ample, a shadow check of the shep- 
herd plaid type, i. e., a check with al- 
ternate blocks of equal size, might 
have the warp yarns arranged 10 ends 
of right twist and 10 ends of left 
twist alternately, the filling being in- 
serted 10 picks of right twist and 10 
picks of left twist. 

A MODIFICATION 

of this might be made by arranging 
the yarns in both warp and filling, 4 
right twist, 2 left twist, 4 right, 4 left, 
2 right, 4 left; 20 ends and 20 picks 
per pattern. 



As the yarns are all of the same 
counts, material, quality and color, 
and are reeded equally, it follows that 
something out of the ordinary causes 
the check effect. It is an optical illu- 
sion, due to the reflection of the light 
that falls upon the fabric being de- 
flected at a different angle in the sec- 
tions composed of right twist yarns 
to the sections composed of the re- 
verse twist yarns. 

In a shadow check of the shepherd 
plaid type under consideration, the 
face yarns are arranged 16 of each 



Fig. l. 

twist alternately in both warp and fill- 
ing. The face weave is the 4-end bas- 
ket. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These goods require box looms of 
the simplest type, with two boxes at 
one end and a single box at the other. 

The manner of preparing the warps 
determines to some extent the type of 
shedding motion to use, whether cam 
or dobby. As the finished fabrics are 
required to be in one solid color, and 
some warp yarns differ from others 
only in the direction of twist in the 
same, care has to be exercised to keep 
the yarns where they belong and to tie 
in the right twist when an end breaks. 

ONE OF TWO METHODS 

may be adopted to assist in keeping 
the yarns in order: 

First, tint the yarns of one twist 
with a light substance that may be 
noticeable in the loom and yet wash 
out readily before it is dyed, the other 
warp yarns being in the gray. By this 
method the warp yarns may all be 
readily drawn on one beam, and wo- 
ven on a cam loom. 

Second, place the different twists of 
yarns on separate beams and draw 
them through separate sections of har- 
nesses. When this method is adopted 
it is advisable to use the dobby in 
preference to cams on account of the 
number of harnesses required. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



683 



Two colors or kinds of bobbins 
should be used, one for each kind of 
twist, so that the filling will not be li- 
able to get mixed; or if cops with- 
out tubes are used, the shuttles should 
be marked so as to be easily distin- 
guished. Tubes of different colors can 
be used if the cops are built on tubes. 

IMITATIONS 
of shadow checks have been shown to 
some extent in cotton warp and mo- 
hair or luster worsted filling goods. 
These are made with the warp yarn 
all the same twist, the shadow ef- 
fect, warp way, being obtained by 
reeding some dents with more ends 
than others. 

In a fabric of the type of goods un- 
der consideration, the yarns are ar- 
ranged as follows: 





"WARP. 


Ends. 


Dents. 


18 


in 9 


1 


1 


18 


9 


1 


1 


10 


5 


1 


1 


10 


5 


1 


1 


10 


5 


4 


4 


10 


5 


4 


4 


10 


5 


1 


1 


10 


5 


1 


1 


10 


5 


1 


1 


Total, 121 ends in 68 dents per pattern. 




FILLING. 


light twist yarn. 


Left twist yarn. 


10 






6 


10 






6 


6 






6 


6 






6 


6 






10 


6 






10 


6 






6 


6 






6 


6 






6 


62 + 


62 = 124 picks per 




pattern. 



As these fabrics are characterized 
by the pattern, the constructions of the 
cloths vary considerably. The fabric 
under consideration contains an aver- 



age of about 55 1-3 ends per Inch of 
2-120s cotton, the same twist through- 
out. Each pattern contains 121 ends 
and measures 2 3-16 inches; 121 di- 
vided by 2 3-16 equals 55 11-35 or 
55 1-3 per inch. 

There are 48 picks of worsted per 
inch. 

Shadow stripes are made by using 
only one kind of filling, the warp yarns 
being arranged as in shadow checks, 
with the take-up of the cloth regular. 
An irregular take-up would make a 
check effect. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The carding and spinning data for 
this class of fabric are those given in 
the article on batiste and need not be 
repeated here. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

These goods are dyed with 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt and run at a tem- 
perature of 190 degrees F. until the 
wool is dark enough, when the steam 
is turned off, the bath cooled down 
and the goods run until the cotton 
warp is dyed to shade. 

LIGHT PINK. 
One-half to 2 ounces Erika pink. 

BLACK. 
Five per cent union black SB. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
Dye as pink, with V 2 to 1 ounce tet- 
razo brilliant blue 6 B. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
Two ounces diamine black BH. ; dye 
as pink. 

RED. 
One-half pound benzo fast red 4 B.; 
dye as pink. 

YELLOW. 
Dye as pink. Eight ounces chryso- 
phenine. 

ORANGE. 

Dye as pink. One pound Mikado 
orange B. 

SCARLET. 

Dye as pink. One pound diamine 
scarlet B. 



684 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



LIGHT WINE. 
Dye as pink. One pound diamine 
Bordeaux B. , 

LIGHT AMBER BROWN. 
Four ounces diamine catechine G. ; 
4 ounces diamine fast yellow B.; dye 
as pink. 

TOBACCO BROWN. 
One-half pound diamine brown B.; 
2 ounces diamine fast yellow B.; dye 
as pink. 

LIGHT TAN. 
Dye as pink; 4 ounces diamine 
bronze G.; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- 
low B. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
Dye as pink; 10 ounces diamine 
green G. ; 5 ounces diamine fast yel- 
low B. Top with fresh bath; 6 ounces 
brilliant green G. 



BARATHEA 

Barathea, or barrathea, is a name 
used to denote a certain effect in wo- 
ven fabrics, obtained principally by 
the manner in which the warp yarns 
are interlaced. 

The effect combines to a greater or 
less degree several well-known types 
of woven effects. Viewed in certain 
ways the effect is that of a stripe. 
Upon close examination it appears like 
a broken cord, and yet somewhat like 
a basket weave. 

On examination of Fig. 2, the weave 
will reveal how these effects are ob- 
tained. This weave is complete on 24 
ends and four picks, having been re- 
peated in the picks. At the points 
indicated by the space there is a break 
in the regular formation of the pat- 
tern, caused by one section, which is 
in all respects like the other, in so far 
as the effect it makes is concerned, 
being raised half way of one cord 
above the other, or, as it is termed, 
one section is "set across" the other. 
It is at these points that a cut ef- 
fect is obtained, which defines the 
stripe warp way. One repeat of the 
weave, in the number of picks it con- 
tains, is represented in the cloth by 



two repeats of the effect, or two cords 
warp way. 

dbdbdb dbdbdbdbdbdb dbdbdb 
obdSdb bobdbdbdbdbd dbdbdb 

BDBDBD BDQDBOBDBDBO BDBDBD 
BDBDBD OBDHDUDBDBDa BDBDBD 
DBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBDB DBDBDB 
DBDBDB BDBDfflDBDDDBD DBDBDB 
BDBDBD BDBDBDBDBDBD BDBDBD 
BDBDBD DBDDDBDBDBDB BDBDBD 

A B A 
Fig. 2 



DB 
DB 

BD 

BD 



Fig. 3. 



□BDBOBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBaaaB B 
DBGBDBDBpBDB 
DBDBDBOBDBDB 
DBDB IBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDB BOB 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBD BDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
4 times equals 
48 ends 



□BOBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
■DBDBDBDBDBD 
BGBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 

S DBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBOBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
4 times equals 
48 ends 



ig.4. 

DBDBDBDBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBOB 

nBHBnBDBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBGB 

DBDBDBdSdBOB BDBDBDBDBDBD 

DBDBDBDiDBDB BDBDBDBDBDBD 

BDBDBDBDBDBD BDBDBDBDBDBD 

BDBDBDBaBDBa BDBDBDBDBDBD 

BDBDBDBDBDBD DBDBDBDBDBDB 

BDBDBDBDBDBD DBDBDBDBDBDB 

Fig. 5. 



Section A, or B, of Fig. 2 Is simply 
repeats of warp cord weaves. Each 
section represents six repeats of the 
two end cord, Fig. 3, and if woven 
alone would form an unbroken cord 
or rep effect across the cloth. The 
greater the number of ends in each 
section of the weave, as compared 
with the number of picks, the more 
pronounced will be the cord appear- 
ance. The nearer square the com- 
plete pattern appears in the cloth, the 
more will it resemble a basket effect. 

The patterns vary from square to 
effects several times longer filling 
way than length way of the cloth. 

When constructing cloths with warp 
cord weaves, of which barathea 
weaves are an extension, considera- 
bly more ends than picks per inch are 
required, the object being to cover the 
filling yarns entirely. 

Barathea fabrics in all silk, or with 
silk warp and cotton filling, are ex- 
tensively used in the manufacture of 
gentlemen's neckties. They are usual- 
ly shown in white, black, solid and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



685 



staple colors, although occasionally 
made in more than one color. > 





The construction of two of these 
fabrics is as follows: White, fine silk 
warp, ply cotton filling, weave, Fig. 



2; 280 ends and 72 picks per Incn; 
23 1-3 ribs per inch. Black, fine silk 
warp, ply cotton filling, weave, Fig. 
4; 480 ends and 100 picks per inch; 
10 ribs per inch. They are seldom 
made with larger effects than this 
for tie silks. 

Baratheas are excellent wearing 
fabrics, the yarns exposed to wear, 
the warp yarns, being necessarily fine 
and of good quality. They are made 
to differ in the sizes of ribs used, 
small effects being used more than 
large ones. The size is regulated by 
one or both of two factors; first, the 
number of ends and picks in a repeat 
of the weave; second, the number of 
ends and picks per inch of yarn in 
the cloth. Figs. 2, 4 and 5 are the 
weaves generally used, the number of 
ends in each section varying accord- 
ing to requirements. 

The two sections comprising the re- 
peat, no matter how many ends used, 
usually contain an equal number of 
ends. 

With the weaves already noted the 
effect produced on the back of the 
cloth is an exact duplicate of that on 
the face. A modification or extension 
of these weaves, used principally in 
the larger effects, is shown in Figs. 6 
and 7. 

The solid marks in Fig. 6 indicate 
a weave that would form an effect on 
the face of the cloth similar to that 
made with weave Fig. 4. These repre- 
sent where the warp would show on 
the face, coming together and cover- 
ing the raisers indicated by the cross 
es. The latter indicate a broken plain 
weave on the back. 

Fig. 7 would make the same face ef- 
fect in the cloth as Fig. 4, if woven 
with the same construction, but the 
back of the cloth would show a broken 
twill effect. A firmer fabric would be 
produced with weaves 6 and 7 than 
with No. 4, with the same amount of 
material. 

Further extensions of these weaves 
are illustrated in Figs. 8, 9, 10 and 11. 

The patterns indicated may be wov- 
en on ordinary single box silk dobby 
looms. If two colors are used in the 
same fabric they are arranged in the 



686 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



warp. As the warp covers the filling 
there is nothing to be gained by us- 
ing more than one color of filling. 



LOOP or KNO CLOTH 

Loop or kno cloths are character- 
ized by small loops of warp yarn pro- 
jecting from the face of the cloth, usu- 
ally in set, regular order. 

They are novelties, not standard 
goods, and as such are not limited to 
any one construction, quality or ma- 
terial. They are generally made with 
cotton, wool or silk yarns. The 
yarns forming the loops are used for 
ornamental purposes only. 

Fig. 1 is an example of a loop pat- 
tern on a 2 — twill ground. The 
loop yarns in this particular instance 




Fig. 1. 



are arranged as extras, not showing 
on the face of the cloth, except where 
they are required to form the loops. 
Figs. 2, 3 and 4 show the weave, har- 
ness draft and chain draft respectively 
to produce Fig. 1. The ground ends 
are drawn through harnesses 1, 2, 3 
and 4, and the loop yarns through 5, 6, 
7 and 8. The weave is complete on 52 



ends and 60 picks, including 4 wire 
picks. 

THE LOOP YARNS 
weave - , except where they are re- 
quired to loop, and are tied between 
two face ends raised on opposite 
sides of the ties. urosses_ in Fig. 2 
show where the loop yarns are raised 
over the wires to form the loops. Cir- 
cles indicate tying points, two ends 
working together as one. Crosses in 
Fig. 4 indicate where the wires go be- 
tween the warp yarns in place of the 
regular shuttle. All the face warp is 
down, and the take-up motion of the 
loom is stopped on these picks. 

THE CONSTRUCTION 
of sample Fig. 1 is 85.8 ends and 66 
picks per inch average. The ground 
cloth is 66 square and there are 12 
loop or extra ends to every 40 ground 
ends. The warp is all two-ply yarn of 
similar count. The filling is single 
yarn. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Loop effects may be woven on loop 
pile carpet looms, or on ordinary dob- 
by or jacquard looms provided with 
special mechanisms or attachments, 
and beam stands, upon which one or 
more extra beams may be placed, vary- 
ing according to requirements. The 
loop yarns take up faster, and more 
intermittently, than the ground yarns, 
requiring a greater length of warp for 
a given length of cloth. 

There are 

VARIOUS METHODS 
by which the loops may be obtained, 
each of which requires different at- 
tachments. Some of these are as fol- 
lows: 

First. The loop yarns are arranged 
to work gauze or leno in connection 
with wires fastened to one or more 
of the harness frames. These yarns 
go from one side to the other of the 
wires and as the cloth is drawn down, 
slide over and away from them and 
are feft in loops. 

Second. Wires are Inserted across 
the cloth in place of the regular shut- 
tle, on the picks required to form the 
loops, on the principle applied when 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



687 



making loop pile carpets. These wires 
are automatically withdrawn after 
the ground filling has secured the 

loops. 

Cloth illustrated in Fig. 1 has 
been made on this principle. Two 



is liable to make the cloth look barry 
where the three picks are beaten up 
together, as the ground ends offer con- 
siderably more resistance than on an 
ordinary terry towel fabric, there be- 
ing only a relatively small portion of 



extra spools or beams have been used, the ends weaving terry. 





■ I 


■■ 


■ 


■ 




I 






El 






■■a 




■■ 












S 


■ ■ 




■ I 






■III 


■ ' ■! 






a a 
a aa 


III III 

■ ■ ik r 






■ 






IB B B 


■■ a ■ a 

a aa a 

BB KB 




am* ■■ ■■ 


■ ■■■■■ ■■ ■ 


■■■■ 


■ ■■ 






■■ ■■- 


■■■■ on ■■ ■■ 


bb a 

I B 
11117 


ffttff-; 






■■ ■■ 










' ■■ 


BB BBB 


ObbR 






■■ 










■ 


a ■■■■ 

■ ■ ■ 

■ ■■ 








■■ ■ I 


■■ G 


mAb ■ 






■ BB a 


3 ■■ 


■ ■ ■■■aa ■■■■■■■ 




■ ■■ ■■ 




I ■ 


bb a 










■ ■■ 


aa i 




■ 


1° 


1 ■ 


■ ■ ■■ ■■■ 


■■ 
■ 






■a bi 








■ ■ : I 


■ ■■■ 

■ ■ E 










IB BBI 

1 BB C 
'- ■■ 1 








■ ■ ■■ 


□ ■ 

■ Ml 






1 












■ mi •"■■-:■■ 


I 












■■ ■■ 1 












h 




*, 


* 




■ 








a a at 

■ Ml 

a bbi 


i- BB 

■ ■■ 

■ ■ 








a ■■ 


Bl 
■ Bl 




ktt JC 


■■ 


BB ■■■ 






IB 

■ 






BB' 


BB ' ■ ■ 


7i 


a ■■ 


i - 








■ ■■■i 








■ ■■ i 




m aa ■■ ■■ i 




■ ■ 
■ 


-re 


}■ U 


■ ■■ • ■■ 






3o 


i 


■ B Bl 


■ o o 








■■ ■■ ■■■ 








BBI 
■ ■■■ 




Ha 


■■1 


L' Ml 


X 


< 




■ HI 












■ ■ R 


R 1 
■ ■1 




IB 


BB BB 


■ ■ 3 


i i 








■B C 


i i:::_::: 


1 ■■■■■;■■ ■ 










■ ■■ 




■ 


■ ■BE 




■ B □ 

B B 


U IB Bl 


TBj» a ' 




■ 




IB! 


■B BB . 


III 


I III 


■■i 






■a aa ■ 


■ 


L 


F. 1 






a ■ 




■ - B 


JB? 


T 1 




■ 1 


■ 




c W 




■ ■■ 












+ 


a b 
■ III 




a 

BBS 




























'\ 




vj 
























































- ............ 





















































Fig. 2. 



one for ends on 5 and 6, and one for 
ends on 7 and 8. 

Third. The loop yarns are allowed 
to come off the warp beam at about 
the same tension as the ground ends, 
except on the picks when they are re- 
quired to loop, when they are forced 
forward a greater length by a posi- 
tive motion. On these picks the yarns 



Dyeing Particulars. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

One per cent diamine black BH. ; 1 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

ECRU. 

One-half per cent diamine catechine 
are eased after the shuttle has cross- G.; % per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 







i ■ i 


1 l*i a| ! 




T -TT 


1 




1 ■' *- ■ 






1 \y\ 7 


' J 


i 


± 


t n 


I 




1 1 ■ 1 


i ! 


[ 


1 


]V 


£T 


it 


as yy 


6 


c| 


' 


1 1 


' J l 




± 


a, L . as. 


\ss 


J 


i 


" 


i * 


i M 


i 


sL 


-X3 


* \ 4 Y 


its J_ 


ifl 


| 


! •, 


> 


{* 




*i 


la 


i i *_ 


-» 44- 


*1 




* 


* 


-|» i 


V 1 


I 


A 


H- l - 


- * tM- 






/' M / 


i 1 


A ■; i 


1 


l 


Jk ' 


/I / 


— i — ±i- 







Fig. 3. 



ed the shed, and the shed closed be 
fore the reed reaches the fell of the 
cloth. This is perhaps the simplest 
method. 

Fourth. The loops may be made on 
a loom with a terry reed motion (see 
article on terry toweling), but this 



1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Eight per cent immedial new bluo 
G. ; 10 per cent sodium sulphide crys- 
tals; 2 per cent caustic soda lye, 75 



689 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



degrees Tw.; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 

Eight per cent diamine black H.W.; 
2 per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 2 













\w W 1 








A l * 








flM ' 












|l| "V". 








Liii " ± 








1 mm * 




■_■ a . _ 
























Mm * 




1 ' ri 




















■ 




PP X 














: <[: 


>i" 




! 




; 






1. 


! ! ! 



Fig. 4. 



per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

GRAY. 

One per cent immedial black NLN. ; 
1 per cent sodium sulphide; y 2 per 
cent caustic soda solid; 20 per cent 
salt. 

MAROON. 

Five per cent immedial maroon B. ; 
6 per cent sodium sulphide; 1 per cent 
caustic soda solid; 20 per cent salt. 

MODE. 

One per cent immedial brown BV.; 
1 per cent immedial yellow D.; 2 per 
cent sodium sulphide; y 2 per cent 
caustic soda solid; 20 per cent salt. 

GREEN. 

Eight per cent immedial green GG.; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 



cent caustic soda solid; 20 per cent 
salt. 

BLACK. 
Six per cent para diamine black BB.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
salt. 

RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red F.; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 

PEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent diamine green G. , 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue FF.; 
1 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent salt. 



GREPONS 

These fabrics are made up of a 
combination of cotton worsted, or cot 
ton, worsted and silk. The goods are 
usually piece-dyed and used princi- 
pally for ladies' wear in the form of 
skirts. The character of the patterns 
for these fabrics is such that the best 
effects can only be obtained with the 
use of the jacquard loom. In this 
treatise we will consider the fabric as 
woven on the harness loom. The har- 
ness loom is utilized either because 
the manufacturer has no jacquard 
loom on hand or wishes to reduce the 
cost of weaving. 

THE WEAVE 

for these fabrics is based on the dou- 
bled cloth system. Under the head of 
doubled cloth we mean the combin- 
ing of two separate textures into one 
fabric requiring separate warp and fill- 
ing threads for each texture. Combin- 
ing the two textures into one fabric 
is effected by interlacing the warp or 
filling threads, or both, of one texture 
into those of the other at regular in- 
tervals. 

The pattern being effected with the 
warp and filling of one system of 
threads forms a raised figure on the 
face of the goods. This raised figure 
depends as much on the nature of the 
yarn as it does on the weave. The 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



689 




Vico35i^55?"5y5®5W^KCnSi -*•" s -! s -8 r s b"» H s** s" 8 i" B H sw- :"■ 



■ ■' '■' b) ■ ■"■ : 
m. n: u. r; u ■ .■' m 



bbb Baa bbb • 



;-» a-i E 

IBB ■■■ BBB 



rim m «aa atra 



Y>qooac&-J ..; .j .-: .%-.%% -w>** 5" s i mS r s ;Y,. %wh ... r i «■ - 

w//«wj r ! ... -«■ 9 J .'w^Xw.*: r s ..a -J s Vi%%v«;*>-Ti-s r s ■■:■ 
•A^wX^ ... .4 aJ>>aV B vK% ■». -a »: «:^%v«v-v. «f ..: ... «: 

\ v.\ r r.i -*a ..a ... LI -J r " A » a« s- : a- 5 r%%vv w.%* a- 1 8" s« s- : 






^. 'M. ■: . ■ w at- a. a .' b 
"a ,■;'■:•■. a: a. bIb"*-.". 



5*: - .a pi -a r a r a -a r a ... ^ *j ri^%%%%%%v%%%p>.«>^%%y.V.iV 

Hi <m a.* m a*? mS >xS ■««* ... ni aai .M' BL-a »r ■ . 'B".~b ■; . ■: ■ u -m w a m m a a a w-a b 



■ ■ 1 

■ -■«. a.i 



H H s^rw^>BW tra*" r-rw.v I" 8- B b-w a- a- a- r-w.v 
a -a ... «rf sL^S^?XHi' J r' I" w* 1-v.vT a- a- s™a- a- a- a- i«\"w 

H Hj*LrSiavSMSi p* " s H HSvftRyw s- s s^ r'^^iw.agyva 
j r 3 -J pj iH^SoK 94 H r s r B B/a%v«r;%v« KirEf^iiBg&BQfiS 

mtm M a.S b*.^b"b- a "B — - 



J. ■ ■ w . . - ■ m . a b b ■ b a ■( a i "■ 'i.H k& *: M bl«. b. m. jilj^tb' b: .r 
-S .bB |.B ,.S ..3 .-3 r 8 jpff r B 5-1 rf;^.|&l%w5S5S&fefeS^i^^ 



Fig. 1. 



cotton in the goods Is principally used 
as a back for the raised figure; the 
worsted forms the figure. If the silk 



is used, it forms the figures and the 
worsted or wool goes into the body of 
the goods, and in the finishing of the 



690 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



fabric contracts considerably, thus ac- 
centuating the figure. 
In a foregoing paragraph it was sug- 



□□□□□□□□■□□n 
aaaaaaaaoBoa 

aaaanannnDBa 

DDDDDnDaDQ^B 

naDDaanaHQaa 
aaaaaoaaaBaa 
naaaanDDnn«a 
aaaaoDDGnan" 
DnDaannanDDa 
DanaaBDaociDa 
annnnaBDODna 
aaaaaaoBaaaa 
nnnamaanaaaa 
nanoamaaanca 
naoaaamaaana 
aananaamanon 
unanaanannaa 
DBaaaoaaaaaa 
DaBajnannana 

nGDBDaDDDDDa 

anannDGDDDnn 
oaaaaaaaoaoa 
onBannDDDODn 

Baa«aDDDDDDD 
□aaanaanann 
B Banna nnDnna 
aaaaaaoaaaa 
oaaBaaoDoaan 
BaaaaDnDnDDD 
DBaaaa aoanaa 
DDBnaaDnnana 
nnnDDDDDDDna 
nnnnt3DDaonDD 
Daaaoa aaoaaa 
nannnaBnnDna 
naaaaa DBanaa 
onanBnnnnDDn 

nnDDDBDDDQDa 

DnaaDa BDDDna 

aanaaanmaaaa 

Daaaaaoaanaa 

naaaaaoaaBaa 

aDDaDanDDnBD 

nnaDanannnDB 

naDDDDDDBaDn e4 

nanDDDDDDBaD 

aDDaDDnDDDBD f\ 

QDDDDDUDDDDB DnannnDnBDna g 

DDDDDDDnnBDD W 

DannnDDDDDBn 

nDnaDnnoanDB 

DDDDnnaDBana 
DnaaDoaaDBnD 
□aDanannDDBn 
oaaaaaaoaaoB 
DnaDBananaDa 
DnnnDBDaDnna 

DDDDaaBDDDDa 

DnanannHDnna 
DDDnBaanDann 
DDnnnBnnDana 
DDDDaDBDrnoa 
aaaaaaoBaaaa 
BaanaaDDDDDD 

DBaDDDDDnOOD 
DDBDnDDBnDDD 
DDDBaDDDDDDa 
BDnDDDDnDDDQ 

DBaDnannDDDn 
naaaaaaaaDaa 
nDnBaDDDDDDa 
BDnaaDDnnDnn 

DBjaaDDDDDDa 
DDBanDDDDDDn 

noaunnanaaon 
Baoaaaaaoaoa 
aBaaaaaaaaaa 
aaBnaaooaoaa 
DaaBaacaaaaa 
DODDBDanDDan 
nnnnDBDDDDnn 
oaaaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaBaaaa 
aaaaiaaoaaaa 
aaaaamnaaana 
naaanamnnnan 
aaaaaaoBaaaa 
aaaaaaaaBaaD 
aaaaaaoaaaaD 
aonaaannanma 
nnaaoaonnaam 
oonnaannmaan 
aaaaaaaaoBaa 
naaaaanaaapa 
aaaaaaDDDDDP 

gested that the best effects are only- 
obtainable with the use of the jac7 
quard loom, by reason of the fact 



that the patterns are too large to be 
operated on the harness loom, and as 
a rule the quality of the fabric is not 
made as fine as the jacquard loom 
fabric; however, a harness loom that 
can operate 24 harnesses can produce 
some very clever effects. The variety 
in regard to texture in these fabrics 
can be comprehended best by compar- 
ing several fabrics of different tex- 
tures. Some idea may be obtained by 
the following constructions. 

A texture for a cheap grade crepon: 

Width in reed, 56 inches; finished at 
52 inches; warp plan, one end face 
warp, 2-32s mohair, 1 end back warp, 
2-50s cotton; 15 x 4 reed; filling, l-30s 
cotton filling; 60 picks. 

A better grade may be made with 
the same warp plan, by using one pick 
worsted to alternate with one pick cot- 
ton. The worsted will be face filling. 

The character of the pattern for 
this grade of crepon may be any con' 
ventionalized figure, arranged usually 
in some zigzag manner, imitating as 
much as possible the larger patterns 
made on jacquard looms. The raised 
figure or blister effect covers as much 
space or divides equally with the 
ground in most fabrics of the cheaper 
grades. In the better grades there is 
usually more figure than ground. Fig. 
1 shows a design illustrating the cre- 
pon weave and proportion of figure to 
ground for fabrics on 20 to 24 har- 
nesses. Fig. 2 shows the drawing -in 
draft. 

A texture for a fine grade of crepon 
that may be woven either on the jac- 
quard or harness loom: 

Warp arrangement, 4 ends face 
warp, 2 ends in 1 heddle, l 1 ^ dram 
silk; 20 x 3 reed; 1 end back warp, 2- 
60s cotton: filling 3 picks, 1 dram silk, 
1 pick, 2-30s worsted; 80 picks per 
inch, 60 face picks, 20 back picks. 

This construction can be made up to 
the best advantage, in regard to pat- 
tern, with the jacquard loom. 

In finishing the cheaper grades, 
wherein the fabric is made up~of cot- 
ton and worsted, the cotton yarn is 
dyed before it reaches the loom. After 
the fabric is woven it is dyed for the 
worsted. The prevailing color for 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



691 



these fabrics is solid black. The wor- 
sted in the goods contracts consider- 
ably during the finishing, producing 
the blister effect by which the goods 
are characterized. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Crepon is made up in many differ- 
ent ways and out of different fibres, 
sometimes wool and cotton yarns be- 
ing employed. Other combinations are 
cotton and silk, wool and worsted, all 
wool, all worsted, all cotton, etc. 
When the same fibre is used through- 
out the cloth, the twist put in the yarn 
plays a very important part. For ex- 
ample, one yarn, generally the warp, 
is very tightly twisted, while the fill- 
ing yarn is stock twisted. When the 
cloth constructed from these yarns is 
dyed, the action of the dye on the 
yarns is entirely different and con- 
tracts one more than the other, thus 
causing the raised or puffed effect of 
crepon. 

ANOTHER METHOD 

used is to have part of the warp yarn 
with the regular twist, while another 
part has a reverse twist put in, the 
effect produced being the same as be- 
fore. In the cloth under description 
the backing or picking warp is to be 
2-60s cotton yarn. To produce this yarn 
the mechanics' data, etc., required 
would be as follows: The mixing 
should be as large as possible and 
should be allowed to stand at least 48 
hours before being used, so that the 
cotton will have become thoroughly 
expanded. 

THE COTTON 

should be of a good middling grade 
and of 1 5-16-inch staple. The raw 
stock is passed through an opener and 
three processes of picking. The hop- 
per of the opener should be kept 
full of cotton, a small percentage of 
good waste from the machines up to 
the slubber being put in at this ma- 
chine. The speed of the beater, which 
is generally of the two-bladed, rigid 
type, should be at least 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front end should be 40 



pounds, or a 16-ounce lap (the total 
weights given are for a lap 40 yards 
in length). Four of these laps are 
put up at the intermediate picker and 
run through and made into a lap 
weighing 38 pounds, or a 10-ounce lap. 
The speed of the beater for this ma- 
chine is 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
These laps are in turn put up at the 
back of 

THE FINISHER PICKER. 

The speed of this beater is 1,350 to 
1,400 revolutions per minute. The 
weight of the lap at the front is 39 
pounds, or a 14%-ounce lap. Every lap 
should be weighed and all laps varying 
more than one-half a pound from the 
standard should be put to the back of 
the finisher picker and run through 
again. It is very important to see that 
this is done, because nothing will 
throw yarn numbers off more quickly 
than laps that vary. 

Another important question in the 
picker room is what to do with the 

CUT-ROVING WASTE. 
Of course, the best thing to do is not 
to make it. As it is made, the next 
question is how to use it up. Up-to- 
date mills are installing a cut -roving 
waste machine in their plants, but 
there are a great many mills which 
have no such machine. In this case 
the waste is put through the interme- 
diate picker, the two center laps at 
the back of the picker being removed 
and the waste spread evenly between 
the two remaining laps. To help stop 
these laps from licking, four or six 
ends of slubber roving are run into 
the lap at the front end of the picker. 
These laps are run in with the raw 
Btock laps at the back of the finish- 
er picker in the proportion of one lap 
of cut waste to three laps of cotton 
as long as they last. As little cut 
waste should be run as possible, be- 
cause it not only causes licking laps, 
but it 

CAUSES UNEVEN WORK 
and weak roving and yarn; it is con- 
tinually breaking back in the creels, 
requiring one and sometimes two teeth 
of twist more than when not used. 



692 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



The laps from the picker are put up 
at the card, the setting of which 
should be the same as given in pre- 
vious articles when the same grade 
and staple of cotton were used. The 
speed of the flats should be one com- 
plete revolution every 37 minutes. The 
speed of the licker-in should be 300 
revolutions per minute. The produc- 
tion should be about 550 pounds for 
a week of 60 hours. Watch all the 
setting points. Set at least once u 
month all over. Grind cards lightly 
and often. Strip three times a day and 
keep cards as clean as possible an* 
well oiled. Doff cans when full and 
don't allow them to become so full 
that they fall over. Care should 
be taken that no single or double is 
allowed to pass through. 
The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 
for this kind of work should not be 
less than 100 and the sliver should 
weigh 50 grains. This sliver may be 
either combed or passed directly to 
the drawing frame. Generally, howev- 
er, it is combed. Different methods 
and machines are used nowadays for 
combing, but the general method is 
to have the card sliver run through 
a sliver lap machine, where it is dou- 
bled 14 into 1, and the weight of the 
lap is 300 grains per yard. From here 
it is passed to the ribbon lap machine 
and doubled 6 into 1. The weight of 
a yard of lap at this machine is 290. 
From here it is passed to 

THE COMBER 

and doubled 6 into 1, the weight of a 
yard of sliver being 60 grains. At 
the ribbon lap machine the laps should 
be sized once a day, and if the weights 
are coming uneven, twice or even three 
times a day. The comber sliver is 
next put through two processes of 
drawing, the doublings being 8 into 1 
at the breaker and 6 into 1 at the 
finisher. The weight of sliver at the 
finisher is 80 grains per yard. This 
cotton is then put through the slubber 
and made into .40 hank roving. At 
the first intermediate the roving is 1 
hank and at the second 3 hank, while 
at the jacks the roving is 12 hank. Be 



careful of the settings of the rolls. 
They should not be spread too far 
apart, causing a strain, nor should 
they be so close as to cause a breaking 
of the fibre. The 12-hank roving is 
spun into 60s on a spinning frame hav- 
ing a 21-inch gauge of frame, l^-inch 
diameter ring, and a 6 -inch traverse. 
The twist put in is in excess of that 
generally used for warp yarn, some- 
times as high as 6.40 times the square 
root of the count being used, instead 
of 4.25, the usual twist. After being 
spun, the yarn is spooled and twisted 
into 2-ply 60s yarn, after which it is 
warped and run through the slasher 
and beamed. 

Dyeing Particulars 

Crepons are woven sometimes with 
a black warp, dyed with sulphur black 
and piece dyed with wool colors. 

BLACK. 

Five per cent anthracene chrome 
black PF. ; 4 per cent acetic acid; 1 
per cent oil of vitriol. Boil 45 min- 
utes. After-chrome with 1 per cent bi- 
chrome 30 minutes. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Four per cent azo chrome blue TB.; 
4 per cent acetic acid; 1 per cent oil 
of vitriol. After-chrome, 1 per cent bi- 
chrome 30 minutes. 

The warps are also colored with im- 
medial sulphur colors to shades re- 
quired and dyed in the piece with 
wool colors. 

BROWN. 

Two per cent anthracene chrome 
brown DW.; 1 per cent anthracene 
acid brown G. ; y 2 per cent anthracene 
yellow BN. ; 3 per cent oil vitriol. 
After- chrome, 1% per cent chrome. 

PEARL. 

One -quarter per cent anthracene 
chrome blue G.; 1 per cent oil of vit- 
riol. After-chrome, 2 ounces bichrome. 
SLATE. 

One per cent anthracene chrome 
blue G.; % of an ounce anthracene 
yellow BN.; 2 per cent oil of vitriol. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



693 



After- chrome, 1 per cent bichrome. 
MODE. 
Four ounces anthracene chrome 
blue G.; 2 ounces anthracene chrome 
red A.; iy 2 ounces anthracene yellow 
BN.; 2 per cent oil of vitriol. After- 
chrome, 1 per cent bichrome. 

SNUFF BROWN. 
One-half per cent anthracene 
chrome red A.; iy 2 per cent anthra- 
cene chrome brown D.;_l*4 per cent 
anthracene yellow BN.; *4 per cent 
anthracene chrome blue F. ; 3 per cent 
oil of vitriol. After-chrome, \y 2 per 
cent bichrome. 

GREEN. 
Three per cent anthracene chrome 
blue G.; 1 per cent brilliant milling 
green B.; 1% per cent anthracene yel- 
low BN. ; 4 per cent oil of vitriol. Aft- 
er-chrome, 2 per cent bichrome. 

WINE. 

Two per cent wool red B.; 1 per 
cent anthracene chrome blue R.; 3 
per cent acetic acid; 1 per cent oil of 
vitriol. After- chrome, 1 per cent bi- 
chrome. 

SAGE. 

Two ounces anthracene chrome blue 
BB. ; 2 ounces anthracene yellow BN.; 
1-1.6 ounce anthracene red A.; 1 per 
cent oil of vitriol. After-chrome, 1 per 
cent bichrome. 



SHADE CLOTH 

Shade cloths for window shades, 
window curtains or window blinds de- 
rive their name from the use to which 
they are intended to be subjected. 
They comprise a large variety of 
counts, widths, weights and qualities. 
The lower grades are made from low 
to medium qualities of stock, extend- 
ing to the usual grades of print cloth 
fabrics. Better grades are made in all 
numbers of cotton to the best Egyp- 
tian and Sea Island. 

The widths vary from a few inches 
for small door and house windows to 
three or four yards, or more, for large 
plate glass store windows. The gen- 



eral run of goods is of medium width. 
The narrow shades are made by cut- 
ting a wider cloth in two or more sec- 
tions or narrow widths. For exam- 
ple, a shade cloth finishing 54 inches 
wide might be cut in three strips, each 
of which would be 18 inches in width. 
The 

MEDIUM-WIDTH GOODS 
are woven in one width, with two sel- 
vages only, one on each side. It is 
not necessary to have special sel- 
vages for each width (for cloth to be 
cut up into two or more widths) be- 
cause the sizing or filling put onto 
and into the goods during the finish- 
ing process prevents the edges from 
unraveling for a considerable time 
after they have been cut if they are 
handled with due care. 

The wide shade cloths are usually 
considerably heavier in proportion 
than the narrow goods on account of 
the extra hard usage to which they 
are subjected. 

THE DISTINGUISHING FEATURE 
of these goods is in the smooth, pol- 
ished and firm appearance of the 
same after they have been finished. 
They are usually finished in white or 
solid colors, or with a printed head- 
ing in addition. 

The cloth basis of the shade may 
be any one of many of the plain wo- 
ven cloths that have been described, 
with the possible extension in width 
as noted. 

A shade cloth under consideration 
has a plain cloth for a basis of the 
following construction: Width, 44 
inches; ends per inch, 64; picks per 
inch, 64; length, 100 yards; weight, 
3% yards per pound; warp counts, 
22s; filling counts, 24s. The finished 
width of this cloth is 42 inches. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

The loom required will vary in 
slight details according to the weight 
and width of cloth required. For nar- 
row goods the automatic or quick run- 
ning plain looms will answer all re- 
quirements, the weave being plain in 
all cases, with one warp and one fill- 
ing only required. 

The principal change necessary to 



694 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



weave wide fabrics is in placing two 
or more warps in the loom, end to end, 
instead of one large beam. These sec- 
tional warps are run on shells instead 
of solid beams. The rod running 
through them all is supported on bear- 
ings between every two shells, as well 
as at the ends, when in the loom. 

Combining warps in this manner ob- 
viates the necessity of having to pre- 
pare them on a very wide slasher, 
which would otherwise be necessary 
to accommodate the wide beam, as 
well as overcomes the difficulty 
caused by long beams warping and get- 
ting out of true. 

FINISHING. 

The cloths are woven white, then 
piece-dyed in the color or tint requir- 
ed. 

One method of finishing 42 inch 
shade goods is as follows: Shear and 
singe on both sides so that all loose 
fibres are dispensed with; wash, 
bleach, dye, mangle and dry. After 
being cooled, run through a damping 
machine and allow to remain in a 
damp state for a short time, then 
stretch on the belt-stretching machine 
to 43 inches in width, after which fill 
on the friction starch mangle with 
the following mixture: Maize or corn- 
starch, 100 pounds; oleine oil, 50 per 
cent, two quarts; carbolic acid, one- 
half pint. Water sufficient to make, 
when boiled, 100 gallons. After filling, 
dry on drying machine and allow to 
cool; run through damping machine 
and allow to lie at least two hours. 
Run through wide or Scotch hydraulic 
mangle; strip, turn and repeat the 
process. Strip, run through canroy 
machine. 

For white shade cloth the dyeing 
process is not necessary. Fancy shade 
cloths, in addition to the processes 
noted, are run through a printing ma- 
chine for the purpose of receiving a 
pattern at one end of each shade. The 
color or tinsel applied is of a firm char- 
acter. The patterns are printed every 
so often in the piece, according to the 
length of shade required, and extend 
from side to side. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For carding and spinning particulars 
the reader is referred to the warp 
data in the article on "Buckram," and 
to the filling data in the article on 
"Book Muslin." 

Dyeing Particulars. 
These goods are dyed on the jig in 
rolls of about 10 pieces of 50 yards, 
with sulphur colors. 

ECRU. 
One-half per cent immedial cutch G. ; 
% per cent immedial yellow D.; 1 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt; after-chromed 
with y 2 per cent chrome. 

OLIVE. 
One per cent immedial yellow D. ; 2 
per cent immedial dark green B.; 2 
per cent immedial olive B.; 5 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
25 per cent salt; after-chrome with 1 
per cent chrome. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Ten per cent immedial blue B.; 2 per 
cent immedial indone R. ; 12 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent caustic 
soda; 25 per cent ~salt. 

DARK GREEN. 
Ten per cent immedial green BB.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
caustic soda; 25 per cent salt. 
MAROON. 
Ten per cent immedial maroon B.; 
10 per cent sulphide of sodium; 2 per 
cent caustic soda; 25 per cent salt; 
after-treat with 1 per cent chrome. 
SLATE. 
One per cent immedial black NLN. ; 

1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent 
caustic soda; 10 per cent salt; after- 
treat with % per cent chrome. 

RED. 
Eight per cent diamine fast red F.; 

2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent salt; 
after- treat with iy 2 per cent fluoride 
of chrome. 

BROWN. 
Five per cent immedial brown B.; 5 
per cent immedial brown G.; 10 per 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



695 



cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent caus- 
tic soda; 25 per cent salt; after- 
chrome with 1% per cent chrome. 

BISHOP'S" LAWN 

Bishop's lawn is a fine, plain woven 
fabric, slightly lighter in weight than 
linon or India linon. It is a white 
fabric with a blue tint, and is princi- 

2,852 (ends) x 105 (length) 



2,764 ground ends plus 88 selvage 
ends total 2,852 ends. 

To find width in reed, assuming 10 
per cent shrinkage from warp to fin- 
ished cloth: 27 inches divided by .90 
or 90 per cent equals 30 inches in 
reed. 

To find weight of warp, assuming 
105 yards of warp for 100 yards of 
cloth : 



100 (counts) x 840 

pally used for light dresses and un- 
derskirts. 

112 (picks) x 100 (length) x 30 (w 



= 3.565 lbs. warp in 100 yards cloth. 



120 (counts) x 840 

Like a great many other plain cot- 
ton goods, bishop's lawn varies slight- 
ly in weight, count and quality, but the 
latter is usually very good. 

The finish and blue tint seen in 
these goods are the principal charac- 
teristic features which distinguish 
them from other fine cotton fabrics. 
A cloth of the same construction and 
quality might be known by another 
name if finished differently. 

The 

ANALYSIS 

of a bishop's lawn of good quality in- 
dicates the following construction: 
ends per inch, 104; picks per inch, 112, 
warp counts, 100; filling counts, 120; 
finished width, 27 inches. 

The ground of the fabric is reeded 
two ends per dent. The selvage is 
neat, the yarns being arranged in a 
somewhat unusual manner. From the 
ground cloth outward, they are as fol- 
lows: 

12 ends singles in four dents; 24 
ends as 12 in six dents; 8 ends as 2 in 
one dent; total, 44 selvage ends in 11 
dents on each side. 

The selvage and ground ends are of 
the same counts. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To find number of ends in warp: 
104 (sley) divided by 2 (ends per 
dent) equals 52 dents per inch; 52x27 
(width) equals 1,404 dents occupied by 
warp; 1,404 — 22 tor selvages equals 1,- 
382 dents for ground ; 1,382 x 2 equals 



To find weight of filling in 100 yards 
of cloth: 

idth in reed) 

= 3.333 lbs. filling. 



To find weight of cut: 



3.565 lbs. warp. 
3.333 lbs. filling. 



6.898 lbs. weight of 100 yard cut. 

To find number of yards per pound: 
100 (length) divided by 6,898 
(weight) equals 14.49, say 14 Ms yards 
per pound. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

This fabric may be woven on any 
of the light running cam, single-box 
looms. One beam only is required. 
On account of the large number of 
ends per inch, care should be taken 
not to have a coarser twine harness 
than is absolutely necessary. If diffi- 
culty is experienced with crowded 
heddles and ends, the cone motion 
may be substituted for the cams with 
advantage. 

FINISHING. 

After being prepared and bleached 
in the ordinary manner, the goods are 
opened out to the full width and run 
through a light starch, blued to suit 
requirements, on a starch mangle, and 
dried. They are then dampened, cal- 
endered on a "swissing" or "rolling" 
calender, folded and made up as re- 
quired. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Bishop's lawn is made in mills hav- 
ing the equipment of machinery as 
given in the third division, i. e., ma- 
chines for making fine counts of yarns. 



696 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



On this class of goods the sampling of 
the cotton as to grade and staple is a 
very important part in the finished 
fabric. The counts of the yarn of the 
sample of the cloth taken for descrip- 
tion are for the warps 100s and for the 
filling yarn 120s. For these counts the 
cotton used would be Sea Island and 
the staple 1% inches. Every bale 
should be graded and stapled before it 
is allowed to be put into the mixing, 
and this mixing should be allowed to 
stand as long as possible and also 
should be as large as convenient. For 
this class of cotton it would be better 
if it were opened and put through a 
blower and then sent through a line of 
trunking, so that it would be dried out 
as much as possible before being 
worked.- 

ONLY TWO PROCESSES > 

of pickers and an opener are used for 
this cotton, because it should have as 
little beating as possible to get the 
dirt out. The usual instructions that 
have already been given, relative to 
the opener and pickers, should be fol- 
lowed. The speed of the breaker beat- 
er (which should be of a two-bladed, 
rigid type) should be 1,350 revolutions 
per minute, and the lap in front should 
weigh 29 pounds. These laps are put 
up at the back of the finisher picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of 
this beater should be 1,200 revolutions 
per minute, which gives the cotton 
passing through about 29 beats or 
blows per inch. For this class of goods 
it is not the general custom to mix in 
cut waste. The picker room should 
be looked after to see that all the 
eveners are working properly and to 
try and make laps that don't split. In 
order to do this, look after 

THE DRAFTS 
to see that they are putting the cotton 
passing through the picker in the prop- 
er place. At the finisher picker th« 
laps, as they are taken off, should 
be weighed, and all those having a va- 
riation of half a pound either 
side of standard should not be al- 
lowed to be put up at the card, but 
should be run over again. The total 
weight of a lap at the finisher should 



be 30 pounds or a 10 -ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at the card. This card 
should be set close at the points be- 
tween the cylinder and doffer and cyl- 
inder and flats and also between the 
cylinder and licker-in, but between the 
licker-in and feed plate the setting 
should be so that the distance between 
the bite of the feed roll and teeth of 
the licker-in is just a little greater 
than the length of the staple. It is 

A GENERAL FAULT 

of carders to set these two parts the 
same for all lengths of staple, and 
this should be looked after and rem- 
edied, because if the proper distance is 
not maintained between these parts 
the stock will be shorter in length at 
the front (if set too close), or will 
not be properly carded (if set too far 
apart). For long-staple cotton, some 
overseers claim that it is an advan- 
tage to reduce the speed of the licker- 
in. Their reason for so doing is 
they claim that the licker-in is noth- 
ing more or less than a beater, and if 
we slow down the beater for 
long-staple cotton, why not slow down 
the licker-in in the same proportion? 
The wire fillet used on the cylinder 
should be No. 110s, or No. 34s wire, 
and for the doffer and top flats No. 
130s, or 36s wire. The 

SPEED OF THE FLATS 
should be one complete revolution ev- 
ery 38 minutes and the licker-in 30 
revolutions per minute. The cards 
should be stripped three times a day, 
and ground at least once a month. The 
flats should be ground so as to al- 
ways have a sharp needle point. If 
possible, the flats should be taken off 
and ground on a flat grinding machine 
and it will be found that the best re- 
sults will be obtained. The production 
of a card for a week of 60 hours should 
be .225 pounds; the weight of the sliv- 
er, 35 grains per yard; the draft of 
the card being 125. In this article, we 
have drafted high and carded light. 
In some cases, for this kind of goods 
and cotton, overseers have been known 
to draft as high as 180, which makes 
our draft of 125 look rather small. 
After passing the cards, the sliver is 
put through either a line of drawing 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



697 



or a sliver lap machine, according to 
the layout of the mill. In mills that 
are now being built and in the old 
mills that are installing new machin- 
ery, the combers being put in are of 
different types and some prefer the 
new style single head comber, while 
others prefer the older style 8 head 
comber or 6 head comber as the case 
may be. The single head comber 
seems to have some preference among 
mill men, inasmuch as it does not 
take up any great amount of space 
and accomplishes a great deal of 
work. 

The weights, etc., that we give in 
this article will be for the older type 
of 8% -inch width laps. The weights 
for larger laps may be obtained by 
proportion. We will also assume that 
the equipment is as follows: Sliver 
lap, ribbon lap and combers. 

The doubling at the sliver lap ma- 
chine is 14 into 1, and the weight of 
the sliver is 225 grains per yard. At 
the ribbon lap machine the doublings 
are 6 into 1, the weight of a yard of 
lap being 200 grains per yard. In 
some mills, the sliver laps are made a 
little heavier and only five doublings 
used at the ribbon lap. When this 
is the case, the weight of a yard of 
sliver lap is 270 grains per yard. 

For the top leather rolls of these 
machines use a 

VARNISH 
as follows: Seven ounces gelatine 
glue, one quart acetic acid, two tea- 
spoons oil of origanum. Color with 
burnt sienna. In dog- day weather or 
for slippery cotton use ground char- 
coal and gum arabic. This varnish 
may be also used for the drawing 
frames and comber rolls (both detach- 
ing and those in the draw box). The 
laps from the ribbon lap machine are 
put up at the comber. At this ma- 
chine the percentage of waste taken 
out is 22 to 25. The speed is 85 nips 
per minute. The rolls should be var- 
nished at least once every two weeks, 
needles picked and brushes cleaned 
once a week. Comber percentages 
should be taken every time a comber 
is changed from one stock to another 
and the percentage of four every day. 
Set comber same as for Indian lawn. 



The weight of the sliver should be 
about 35 grains per yard. The comb- 
er cans should be put up at the back 
of the drawing frame, being doubled 
6 into 1 at both the breaker and finish- 
er. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 
at the finisher drawing should be 
65 grains per yard. Watch the stop- 
motions to see that they are all in 
proper working order and also the 
roll settings; also keep the rolls well 
varnished. At the slubber the draw- 
ing is made into .80 hank roving, after 
which it is put through three processes 
of fly frames. At the first interme- 
diate it is made into 2.25 hank, at the 
second into 5, and at the fine frame 
into 20 hank for warp yarns; for fill- 
ing yarns the slubber and first would 
be the same hank, at the second in- 
termediate the hank is six and at the 
fine frame, 24 hank. Watch the build 
of the bobbins, the lay, twist and ten- 
sion. Also keep a sharp watch on 
double and single, also bunches. Some- 
times the slubber and first intermedi- 
ate top leather rolls are varnished, the 
varnish used being a little lighter than 
that used for drawing frames. 

THE ROVING 
is spun into 100s from the 20 hank rov- 
ing on a warp frame having 1%-inch 
diameter ring, 5 -inch traverse, and 
spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per 
minute. This yarn is then spooled, 
warped and put through the slasher, 
at which the following size may be 
used: 100 gallons of water; 75 pounds 
potato starch; * 7 pounds tallow; 3 
pounds Yorkshire gum; 2 pounds white 
soap; boil two hours and let stand 10 
hours before using. Keep agitator 
running and size almost at boiling 
point. 

The 24 hank roving is made into 
120s yarn on the mule. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent rose B D. ; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
SKY BLUE. 
One-quarter per cent diamine sky 
blue F F.; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per 
cent salt. 



698 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



CREAM. 

Two grains diamine catechine 3 G. ; 

1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 

ECRU. 

Two per cent diamine catechine 3 

G.; Yi ounce diamine fast yellow B.; 

1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 

PEA GREEN. 
Two ounces diamine green B. ; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red F.; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 
SAGE GREEN. 
One per cent diamine green G.; 1 
per cent sal soda; 15 per cent salt. 
WINE. 
Four per cent diamine Bordeaux B.; 

2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 

SCARLET. 
Three per cent diamine scarlet B.; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
ROYAL BLUE. 
Five per cent diamine sky blue; 2 
per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 



ROBES 



A cotton fabric with an unglazed 
surface, printed on one side in high- 
ly colored patterns, this fabric is made 
up into robes, wrappers or gowns, 
hence the name. The fabric was origi- 
nally produced in cashmere effects, 
and used primarily as a dress fabric. 

This fabric, however, resembles in 
point of texture and general appear- 
ance the cloth known as "cretonne," 
which is also a printed cloth, but used 
principally for furniture coverings, 
curtains, comfortables and such pur- 
poses. The term robes is applied to 
both twilled and plain woven fabrics. 
The fabric used for robes is usually 
made from a 64-square printing cloth, 
or its equivalent, while the fabric 
used for household purposes is made 
from various textures. 

The 

CHARACTER OF PATTERNS 
for robes is almost without limit, but 
the scale, or size of the figure in the 
design, however, should not be too 



large, as the numerous folds would 
destroy the effect of the repeat of the 
design. The designs best suited for 
this class of goods are small floral or 
geometrical figures, distributed in such 
a manner that they will not appear in 
the finished garment in rows or lines, 
but rather in an all-over effect, so that 
the various figures constituting the 
design may be seen at a glance. 

THE COLORINGS 
may be almost any conceivable com- 
bination imaginable, providing, of 
course, that there be harmony in the 
colors used. The number of colors used 
varies from 4 to 10 different shades, 
the darker colors usually forming the 
background, while the lighter and 
brighter colors form the figures. 

In regard to the construction for 
these fabrics the designer has little in 
the way of ingenuity, the important 
feature of the goods depending on the 
printing machine. 

The fabric is composed of plain cot- 
ton yarn with 

THE COUNTS 
varying very little, a common texture 
being 64 ends and 64 picks, of l-30s 
both warp and filling, sometimes ar- 
ranged 70 ends and 58 picks, another 
texture being made with 64 ends and 
48 picks, l-30s warp and l-26s filling, 
made in widths from 27 to 36 inches. 

The goods are woven on high speed 
looms. The automatic loom is well 
adapted for this class of goods. The 
cost of weaving is an important con- 
sideration in the production of these 
goods, as the retail price does not war- 
rant an unnecessary expense. 
FINISHING. 

The goods, after being woven, are 
prepared for the printer by boiling 
off, then passed over heated cylinders 
to dry, after which they are ready for 
printing. After the printing process 
they are ready for the merchant. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns to make robes are 
manufactured in the first division 
of mills as given in a previous 
article. The mixture for this cloth 
varies according to the mill making 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



699 



the goods and also the quality of the 
goods required of the manufacturer. 
Generally speaking, there is a certain 
percentage of waste used for this 
class of goods, and not only the per- 
centage differs, but the quality of the 
waste used also. Some mills will use 
only comber waste, and other mills 
only comber and card waste, while 
other mills will use any kind of waste 
they can obtain, and run it through. 
The mixing plays an important part 
and the percentage of waste put in 
varies from 10 to 100 per cent. Pro- 
duction and plenty of it is the cry 
of the owners making this class of 
goods. This being the case, quality is 
somewhat lacking. To make up for 
this, the goods are brushed, which has 
a twofold advantage. It gives a 

NAP 

to the goods, as well as hides the neps 
in the cloth. When good raw stock is 
used, the length of staple is short, 
rarely being over 1-1-16 inches in 
length. The counts for the sample of 
cloth under description are 30s for 
both warp and filling. The mixings 
are made, as before stated, large and 
with the proper proportion of waste 
mixed in. This is then run through 
three processes of pickers, first being 
run through an opener. This opener 
has a fan, which makes 165 revolutions 
and carries the cotton to the aprons 
of the breaker picker and leaves the 
cotton in an open, airy state. This 
lattice or apron carries the cotton to 
the feed rolls of the beater. This 
beater is of the two-bladed type and 
makes 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
The proper drafts should be maintain- 
ed at both pickers, so that a hard lap 
will be made. There are several meth- 
ods by which, it is claimed, the laps 
may be made and will run off smoothly 
and without licking, but as near as 
can be found out by experimenting, 
no one remedy will fill all conditions. 
Judgment at this point is needed. The 
weight of a full lap at the head end of 
the breaker picker should be about 16 
ounces per yard. These laps are put 
up at the intermediate picker and dou- 
bled 4 into 1. This picker is equipped 
with a two-bladed, rigid type of beater 



and has a speed of 1,450 revolutions 
per minute. 

THE TOTAL WEIGHT 
of a lap from this machine is 37 
pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. This picker has the 
same style of beater as the other two; 
the speed is, however, slightly re- 
duced, being 1,375 revolutions per min- 
ute. The total weight of a lap is 39 
pounds, or a 14% -ounce lap. In some 
mills they omit the intermediate 
process of pickers, using just the 
breaker and finisher, and for this class 
of goods would advise two processes 
of picking. The laps are put up at the 
card. For this class of work the draft 
of the card does not exceed 90 and 
very often is not more than 85. The 
card fillet used on both the doffer and 
cylinder, as well as the flats, is coarse. 
The general count used is No. 33 wire 
or No. 100s for cylinder and No. 35 or 
No. 120s count for the doffer and flats. 
The settings used for this class of 
work are similar to those given for in- 
digo prints. The speed of the cylinder 
is 165 revolutions per minute; licker- 
in, 350 revolutions per minute; flats, 
one complete revolution every 50 min- 
utes. The weight of the sliver is 65 
grains per yard, and the production is 
from 850 to 1,000 pounds per week of 
60 hours, according to the quality and 
quantity required. 

THE CARD 
for this class of work should be ground 
once a month and stripped twice a day, 
although in some instances the doffer 
is stripped a third time. The waste ta- 
ken out should not exceed 8 per cent. 
After leaving the card the sliver is 
put through two processes of drawing, 
the doublings at the breaker being 6 
into 1, and at the finisher 6 into 1. 
The weight of a yard of sliver is 75 
grains. The speed of the front roll 
largely depends on the call for draw- 
ing, and the manner in which the room 
is balanced. As frequently happens, 
the drawing frame is the machine to 
get an increase in speed so as to keep 
up with the slubbers or cards, and to 
do so the speed of the front roll is 
increased. The speed varies from 325 



700 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



to 450 revolutions per minute, accord- 
ing to requirements. As the drawing 
frame is the last machine that can 
really be said to even the sliver, care 
should be taken to see that all stop- 
motions are in perfect working order, 
and that they act quickly so as to pre- 
vent an end passing through before 
the frame stops. Whole sets of draw- 
ing or card sliver should not be put 
up at the back of the frame, because 
it tends to make uneven yarn. If a 
size at the front be taken when the 
tops of a can are running through, it 
will be found to be heavier than the 
standard; the middle about the stand- 
ard, and when the can is almost emp- 
ty it will size light. If the cans are 
equipped with springs, it will help 
overcome this defect to a large ex- 
tent, and it will also help to stop the 
"breaking back" of the ends. 

THE DRAWING 
is put up at the back of the slubber 
and made into .60 hank roving, after 
which it passes through two processes 
of fly frames and is made into 2 hank 
roving at the intermediate, and 6 at 
the fine frame. The proper lay of the 
roving on the bobbin is 14 rows per 
inch for the 2 hank, and 33 lays per 
inch for the 6 hank roving. Twist jack 
roving so that it will bear its own 
weight when put in the creels at the 
successive machines. Be particularly 
careful about single, double and 
bunches. Sizing should be accom- 
plished at the picker as follows: Every 
finisher lap should be weighed and if 
the weight varies more than half a 
pound, either side of standard weight, 
it is put back to be run over again. 
The cards should be sized once a week. 
The drawing frame finisher should be 
sized four times a day, and a varia- 
tion of two grains to the yard either 
side of standard should mean a 
change. The fine roving is sized once 
a day and there is no hard and fast 
rule for changing. 

The 6-hank roving is spun into 30s 
warp yarn on the spinning frame, 2 
into 1 on a frame having a 1%-inch 
diameter ring, 2%-inch gauge of spin- 
dle, G^-inch traverse and a spindle 
speed of 10,000 revolutions per min- 
ute. As soft a twist as possible is used 



so that it will nap well. The yarn is 
next spooled and warped, and run 
through a slasher. The 6-hank roving 
for the filling yarn is spun into 30s 
filling at the mule, as it requires a 
soft twist, for reasons before stated. 
After being spun it is taken to the 
conditioning room and remains there 
until wanted for use. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Ten per cent immedial indone blue 2 
B.; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 
per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial green G G.; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Six per cent diamine fast red F.; 2 
per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's; after-treat with 2 per cent fluo- 
ride of chrome. 

YELLOW. 
Five per cent immedial yellow G G.; 
5 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per 
cent salt; 4 per cent soda ash. 
OLIVE. 
Four per cent immedial olive 3 G.; 

4 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per 
cent salt; 3 per cent soda ash. 

BROWN: 
Five per cent immedial brown B.; 

5 per cent immedial cutch O.; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent so- 
da ash. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial dark green 
B.; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
ORANGE. 
Ten per cent immedial orange C; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
BORDEAUX. 
Ten per cent immedial Bordeaux G.; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per 
cent soda ash; 40 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent immedial black N N.; 
2 per cent soda ash; 1 per cent sod* 
um sulphide; 25 per cent salt 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



701 



ECRU. 
One per cent immedial cutch G.; % 
per cent immedial yellow D.; 2 per 
cent sodium sulphate; 25 per cent 
salt. 

BLACK. 
Six per cent immedial brilliant black 
5 B V.; 6 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 
per cent soda ash; 50 per cent salt. 



BENGAL STRIPES 

Bengal stripes is a name given to a 
type of gingham consisting of white 
and colored stripes, alternately ar- 
ranged in small effects in regular or- 
der, the colored yarn having been 
dyed with Bengal indigo. 

They were originally made in Ben- 
gal, India, the home of some of the 
many species of the plant from which 
indigo is extracted, Indigo Fera, and 
derive their name from that fact. They 
differ from some other types of strip- 
ed ginghams only in having colored 
warp yarns that have been dyed with 
Bengal indigo. 

INDIGO 

has been used as a dyestuff for hun- 
dreds of years and has attained a rep- 
utation for itself that is responsible 
for a continued call for indigo-dyed 
goods in the market, although similar 
appearing goods may be made much 
more cheaply with modern aniline 
dyes. Goods dyed with the latter 
possess more merit than most of 
the so-called indigo-dyed goods, the 
colors of which do not penetrate be- 
yond the surface of the yarns. 

Indigo dyeing, if done properly, re- 
quires more time than is now thought 
advisable or necessary to devote to, 
any ordinary class of dyed goods and 
has been substituted to a very large 
extent by anilines. The amount of in- 
digo used has been steadily growing 
less for a number of years, and it ap- 
pears probable that there will be very 
little of it used in the commercial 
world a few years hence. 

USES OF BENGAL STRIPES. 

Bengal stripes are used principally 
for skirtings, aprons, etc. Fig. 1 is an 
illustration of a typical fabric, the 



analysis of which shows it to be an 
article that can be depended upon to 
wear well. 

The warp yarns are arranged 8 of 
blue and 4 of white, alternately, the 
filling being all white. The white 
yarn in both warp and filling has been 
bleached before being woven. The 
blue warp yarn was dyed in the skein 
with Bengal indigo. 

Many of the heavy fabrics in which 
color is used are now made more eco- 
nomically through the stock dyeing 
process. In this method the raw cot- 




Fig, l. 



ton is bleached and then dyed what- 
ever color is deemed necessary. After 
this process is completed the cotton 
is handled exactly the same as if a 
grey woven fabric were to be made. 
The color penetrates into the center 
of yarns in this method, inasmuch as 
the stock is dyed in a loose state and 
the actual dyeing and manufacturing 
is more economically done than was 
formerly the case. Some concerns 
use colors which are absolutely fast 
in these heavy cloths, while others 
use less expensive materials, but the 
method of procedure is identical. 
Few new mills where staple fabrics 
with more or less staple colors are 
produced are being built to-day where 
the stock dyeing process is not used. 

The fabric illustrated is practically 
a warp face cloth, the warp yarn 
showing very prominently in alternate 



702 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



blue and white stripes, whereas the 
filling is almost hidden. Several fac- 
tors tend to produce this effect, among 
which may be mentioned, first that 
two out of every three ends are raised 
on each pick, the weave being the 3- 
end warp flush twill to the left (Fig. 
2); 



Fig. 2. 

second, that the warp yarns are hard- 
er twisted than the filling yarns and 
are approximately twice as heavy; 
third that the cloth contains consid- 
erably more ends than picks per inch. 
ANALYSIS. 

An analysis of the fabric shows the 
following construction data: Finished 
width, 29.7 inches; ends per inch, 67.2; 
picks per inch, 48; warp pattern, 8 
blue and 4 white; warp counts, 9s; fill- 
ing counts, 16s; yards per pound, 2.5. 

Perhaps the simplest method of 
counting the number of ends per inch 
in a stripe pattern, and the most ac- 
curate, is to count the number of 
ends in each pattern; or if the latter 
is small, count several patterns on a 
given width and calculate accordingly. 

For example, there are 12 ends per 
pattern in Fig.l and 7 patterns on 1*4 
inches. 

7 (ends) x 12 (patterns) 



1.25 (inches) 



= 67.2 ends per in. 



The greater the width measured and 
the number of patterns counted, the 
less the liability of error. When the 
full width of cloth is available for 
analysis purposes, it is advisable to 
measure and count the whole number 
of complete patterns, omitting sections 
of patterns and selvages. 

The layout of the entire warp is as 
follows : 



White 

for 

selvages. 

10 as 9 



White 

for 
ground. Blue. 



White. Blue. 
= 10 



J 164 times =656 1,312 
= 8 

= 10 



fi7 fi 1 ^120 

676 + 1,320 = 1,996 ends In the warp." 

The selvage ends, with the excep- 
tion of the two outer ends on each 



side, are drawn single. The two ends 
at each side are drawn together as 
one. 

The entire 164 complete patterns in 
the above warp layout occupy 29% 
inches in the cloth. 

12 x 164 

= 67.2 ends per inch. 



29.25 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These goods may be woven on sin- 
gle box cam or dobby looms, the for- 
mer preferred. Six harnesses would be 
necessary if wire heddles were used 
on a dobby loom, whereas three twine 
harnesses would be sufficient. The 
ends are drawn in straight and the 
selvages drawn the same as the 
ground yarns, one end through each 
heddle and three ends per dent. 
FINISHING. 

There is practically no finish given 
these goods, beyond burling, brush- 
ing and making up. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which Bengal stripes 
are made are manufactured in mills of 
the first division as given in a pre- 
vious article. The method of mixing 
the cotton in these mills would prob- 
ably be by hand. In the up-to-date 
mills, however, openers are employed, 
especially if a large amount of cot- 
ton is used. The method generally 
used in such a case is to have several 
high-speed openers attached in a row, 
the cotton being delivered on an end- 
less apron, which carries it to a blow- 
er. This fan blows the cotton to the 
picker room to a condenser, which in 
turn deposits the open cotton upon an 
endless apron, which runs over the 
mixing bins. At every bin there is a 
chute which, when dropped, allows the 
cotton to be dropped into the bin. 

AN IMPORTANT POINT 
to look out for, when this method is 
used, is the danger of fire. By this 
method the cotton is thoroughly open- 
ed and may be used as fast as deliver- 
ed, as it is in a loose, fluffy, dried- 
out condition. The number of open- 
ers used is according to the amount 
of cotton required by the mill. When 
this method is employed, the good 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



703 



sliver up to the slubber is put into 
the center hopper. This insures a 
thorough and uniform mixing of this 
waste, which is always the "bugbear" 
of cotton mills. The stock used for 
Bengal stripes varies according to the 
quality of cloth desired, but generally 
a % inch to 1 inch staple is used. An 
opener and two processes of picking 
are used. 

THE HOPPER 

of the opener should be well filled and 
connected directly with the breaker 
picker. The speed of this beater, which 
is of the three-bladed, rigid type, is 1,- 
400 revolutions per minute. In this 
breaker picker there are two beaters 
and two sets of cages. The forward 
beater is a two-bladed beater and 
the speed of this is also 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight of 
a lap at the front end is 40 pounds or 
a 20-ounce lap. The picker tenders 
generally allow this lap to be made as 
large as possible, but the weight per 
yard remains the same. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. This picker is 
equipped with either a two-blaaed, rig- 
id or a pin beater; in either case the 
speed is 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap is 46 
pounds net for a 52-yard lap, or about 
a 14%-ounce lap. This lap is put up 

AT THE CARD, 

the draft of which should not exceed 
100. The speed of the cylinder should 
be 165 revolutions per minute; licker- 
in, 375 revolutions per minute, and 
flats one complete revolution every 
45 minutes (110 flats). The fillet of 
the cylinder should be No. 33s wire or 
100s and for the doffer and top flats' 
No. 34s wire or 110s. The cards should 
be set and ground the same as given 
for indigo prints. The cards should 
be stripped three times a day of 10% 
hours. The weight of the sliver per 
yard should be 55 grains and the pro- 
duction 900 pounds for a week of 60 
hours. This sliver is put through two 
processes of drawing, six ends up at 
both the breaker and finisher draw- 
ing. The weight of the sliver is 75 
grains at the finisher. The speed of 



the front roll is 400 revolutions per 
minute. The drawing should be sized 
three times a day. For this class of 
work either metallic or leather cov- 
ered top rolls may be used, but in 
either case should be looked after to 
see that they are in perfect condition. 
Watch the 

STOP-MOTIONS 

to see that they are in perfect work- 
ing condition, and that the frame 
tenders do not block them up with 
cotton to keep them from working. 
The drawing sliver is now put up to 
the slubber, where it is made into .40 
hank roving. Be careful to set the 
bottom steel rolls properly, so as to 
obtain the best results, and watch the 
twist and tension. The slubber roving 
is made into 1 hank for warp and 1.20 
hank for filling at the first interme- 
diate and at the second cr (in this 
case) the five frame is made into 2.25 
hank for the warp and 3.50 for the 
filling yarn. These rovings are then 
taken to the spinning room and at the 
warp frame made into 9s on a frame 
having a S^-inch gauge, 2% -inch di- 
ameter ring and a 7-inch traverse. 
This is then spooled, warped and put 
through a slasher. The roving for 
filling is spun into 16s on a filling 
frame having a 6% to 7-inch traverse, 
1%-inch diameter ring and a 2%-inch 
gauge. This yarn is then conditioned. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BLUE. 

Eight per cent immedial indogene 
GCL. cone; 10 per cent sulphide so- 
dium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial black NRT.; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

BROWN. 
Five per cent immedial cutch O.; 5 
per cent immedial brown BR.; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

OLIVE. 
Five per cent immedial olive B. ; 5 
per cent sulphide sodium; 25 per cent 
salt; 3 per cent soda ash. 



704 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



DARK GREEN. 
Ten per cent immedial dark green 
B.; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 
per cent salt; 4 per cent soda ash. 
MAROON. 
Eight per cent immedial maroon B.; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 



TURKEY RED 

Turkey red is a name given to fab- 
rics that have been subjected to the 
Turkey red dyeing process. They are 
usually cloths constructed with the 
plain or small twill weaves, and are 
found in various widths. They are 
used for signal flags, dress goods and 
for many other purposes where a 
bright red color that will withstand 
severe tests of light, wear and weath- 
er is required. The analysis of two 
characteristic fabrics shows the fol- 
lowing construction data: 

Sample 1. Plain weave; 64 ends and 
52 picks per inch; 30s yarn in both 
warp and filling. A fabric of this type 
could be woven on either automatic or 
ordinary plain cloth looms. 

Sample 2. Three end twill weave, 
for ground; 66 ends and 72 picks per 
inch; 36s warp for the ground of the 
cloth, and 2-36s warp for the selvages; 
24s filling. The ground of this 
sample is drawn one end in each hed- 

Dnn 
rma 
man 

Fig. 1. 



Pig. 2. 

die and three ends in each dent. The 
selvages weave two ply ends as one, 
2 picks in each shed (Fig. 2), with 
catch thread on the outside, and are 
reeded 2 ends per dent. The two ply 
ends, as one, represent 4 single 
strands of yarn in each dent. There 
are 16 ply yarns in each selvage. 

It would be advisable to weave a 
fabric of this character on a dobby, in 
preference to a cam loom, because of 
the difference in weave of selvages 
and ground. The former being on 4 
and the latter on 3 picks necessitates 



12 picks before they repeat together. 
Six harnesses would be required for 
the ground ends, and 3 for the sel- 
vage ends, one of which would be for 
the catch thread. 

CALCULATIONS. 

In analyzing the twill fabric, apiece 
2y 2 x 4 inches was found to weigh 
12 grains, i. e., 10 square inches weigh 
12 grains. 

12 divided by 10 equals 1.2 grains 
per square inch. 

The average number of the yarn was 
found as follows: 66 (ends) plus 72 
(picks) equals 138 inches, which weigh 
1.2 grains. 138 divided by 1.2 equals 
115 inches per grain. 115 plus 10 per 
cent (for take up) equals 126 inches 
of yarn per grain. 126 times .2314 
equals 29.1, say 29, average number. 

By comparing the relative sizes of 
the yarns, warp and filling, by cross- 
ing and twisting them, it was found 
that 18 ends of warp were of the same 
diameter as 12 picks of filling. 

Assuming the warp counts to be 36s, 
the filling counts were found as 
follows : 

138 (sum of sley and pick) divided 
by 29 (average number) equals 4.76. 

66 (sley or ends per inch) divided 
by 36 (warp number) equals 1.83; 
total 2.93. 

72 (picks) divided by 2.93 equals 
24.5, say 24, filling required. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of the yarns of which 
Turkey red is made vary according to 
the quality desired. The stock being 
used also varies in length of staple and 
grade. In one of the samples tak- 
en for this article the warp yarn is 
l-36s and the filling yarn is l-24s. For 
these yarns and quality of cloth the 
staple of the cotton used would be 
1% of an inch in length and of a good 

crs-dp 

THE MACHINERY USED 
would be found in the second division 
of mills, as given in a previous article. 
All bales of cotton should be graded 
and sampled before being put into the 
mixing and all those not up to grade 
and length of staple should be placed 
ome side and not used in the mixing. 
If the mill is up-to-date or of a recent 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



705 



construction the method of mixing 
would be as described in the last arti- 
cle. In older mills the cotton would 
be mixed by hand. If the latter meth- 
od is employed, the mixing should be 
made from as many bales as possible 
and allowed to stand as long as pos- 
sible to dry out. 

PERIODS OF MIXING, 
of course, vary according to the output 
of the mill in which the cloth is made. 
If space is plenty, which is not gen- 
erally the case, a double mixing should 
be made, one mixing being used while 
the other is drying out, thus insuring 
that green cotton is not used. The cot- 
ton is then put through an opener and 
three processes of picking. The hop- 
per of the opener should always be 
kept at least half full of cotton and 
the lifting apron should work easily 
and care should be taken to see that 
the slats are all whole. The pin beat- 
er should be adjusted so as to feed 
the proper amount of cotton to the 
breaker picker. This picker is gener- 
ally of a combination type, having two 
sets of beaters and two sets of cages. 
The breaker beater speed is about 1,- 
400 revolutions per minute, and is of a 
three-bladed, rigid type. The forward 
beater is generally of a two-bladed, 
rigid type, and its speed is 1,400 revo- 
lutions per minute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at this picker is 40 pounds, or a 16- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the intermediate picker and doubled 
4 into 1. This machine has a single 
beater of two blades, rigid type, the 
speed of which is 1,425 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of lap at this ma- 
chine is 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. 
These are put up at the finisher picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. The weight of 
a lap at the head end of this frame is 
48 pounds or a 14 1 / ^-ounce lap. In the 
picker room care should be taken to 
see that the drafts are properly reg- 
ulated and that the eveners are work- 
ing properly, and also that the cotton 
is thrown upon the top cage to help 
prevent splitting laps. Every lap 
should be weighed and a variation of 
one-half pound either side of stand- 
ard weight is allowed. All laps vary- 
ing over or under this allowance 
should be put back and run over again. 



Roving waste is mixed in the good 
cotton in many ways, one of which has 
been previously given. The laps are 
then put up at the card. At this ma- 
chine tne speed of the licker-in should 
be 375 revolutions per minute. The 
flats should make one complete revo- 
lution every 45 minutes. The wire 
fillet used should be No. 33 or 100s for 
cylinder and No. 35 or 120s for the 
doffer and top flats. 

THE CARD SETTINGS 
should be the same as given in a pre- 
vious article on indigo prints. Strip 
three times a day for a 10 y 2 -hour day 
and grind at least once a month. Keep 
the flats free from fly and all quick 
motions well oiled, especially the main 
cylinder bearings, which, if not proper- 
ly attended to, beat up and cause blis- 
tering. The draft of this card should 
be about 100; the weight of the sliver 
is 60 grains per yard and the produc- 
tion is 700 pounds for a week of 60 
hours. Watch the wire fillet to keep 
it sharp. For this sample we will con- 
sider the yarns to be combed. When 
this is the case, the sliver is taken 
from the card and put through the 
sliver lap machine, ribbon lap machine 
and the comber, or it may be taken 
from the card and put through a proc- 
ess of drawing, sliver lap and then to 
the comber. We will consider the 
former method. Here again a great 
deal depends on the size and make of 
comber being used. For this article 
we will take the older styles of six- 
head, 8%-inch lap, combers. The 
weight of a yard of lap at the sliver . 
lap machine (doublings being 14 into 
1) would be 295 grains. At the ribbon 
lap machine the doublings would be 6 
into 1, and the weight of lap 260 to 
275 grains ner yard. The laps are, 
put up at the combers and doubled 6 
into 1. The weight of the sliver is 48 
grains per yard. Sixteen per cent of 
waste is taken out at the comber. The ■ 
comber sliver is next put through two < 
processes of ■ 

DRAWING FRAMES. " 

The weight of a yard of sliver at the' 
finisher is 70 grains and the doublings 
6 into 1 at each process. Size four 
times a day and don't skip a size. 
This sliver is put up at the slubber and 
made into .60 hank roving, For the 



706 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



warp yarn this is put through two 
processes of fly frames; at the first in- 
termediate it is made into 2.25 hank 
and at the fine into 7.50 hank. This is 
taken to the ring frame and spun into 
36s on a frame with a 2%-inch gauge, 
1 9-16-inch diameter ring, and a 6-inch 
traverse, the spindle speed being 9,600 
revolutions per minute. The yarn is 
then taken and spooled, warped and 
slashed. 

The slubber roving for the filling is 
also put through two processes of fly 
frames. At the first intermediate it 
is made into 2 hank and at the sec- 
ond into 5 hank, after which it is spun 
into 30s filling yarn on a frame with a 
2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 
6-inch traverse, and spindle speed of 
7,350 rovolutions per minute. This 
yarn is then taken and conditioned. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

The dyeing of Turkey red has been 
handed down from generation to gen- 
eration for the last 500 years, and pos- 
sibly long before that time. The city 
of Adrianople, and also the city of 
Salonica, were formerly famous for 
this celebrated color. It is not so an- 
cient as indigo blue, because the 
clothes around mummies in Egypt 
2,000 yeafs B. C. have indigo colors 
on them. The original Turkey red 
was a process of long duration. Thir- 
ty days were often consumed before 
the finished cloth or yarn was pro- 
duced. 

The cloth was oiled in olive oil, 
dried, and hung up in long chambers 
for some days, to age the goods, and 
fix the oil in the fibre. The goods 
were then oiled again, and aged, the 
process being repeated several times. 

The short process of Turkey red is 
to oil with a solution of Turkey red 
oil, 20 per cent, and then dry. Oil 
again and dry, and allow to remain 
for a few hours in that state, and pass 
through a solution of acetate of alumi- 
na at 6 degrees Tw. Dry in hot air 
and pass through a dunging bath of 
cow dung and biarsenate of soda. 
This process will take away the sur- 
plus mordant from the cloth, and fix 
the alumina in the fibre. The cloth 
Is well washed in water, and then 
dyed with about 15 per cent alizarine 



red paste, 4 per cent bullock's blood, 
iy 2 per cent nutgalls, and enough 
acetate of lime to correct the water. 

The goods are dyed for one hour, 
and well rinsed, dried and passed 
through a solution of Turkey red oil, 
about 5 per cent, dried, and steamed 
for one hour. The goods are then 
well soaped in a strong bath of hot 
soap, well rinsed, and finished as re- 
quired. 



LAMP WICKING 

Lamp wicking is usually constructed 
of coarse, low-grade cotton yarns. 
There are three general forms or 
types: braid wicking, flat wicking and 
round, hose or tube wicking. 

They are made in sizes varying from 
a small fraction of an inch, in the 
braid and flat types, for miners' and 
similar lamps, to several inches in 
width, in the flat and round types, for 
large oil lamps and stoves. 

The principal objects sought to be 
secured in these goods are strength, 



■USHQ 

□ DBDffl 

mamna 

■ □□QB 
Fig. 1. 



FBFTBfBfTBFBr 

■DIDUDIDIIDI 

ooBfflnanBsaDDB 

BBBOOBBBOOBBB 

■ aDESDBDDEGBaD 

A A A A 

6 times 

Fig. 2. 



aamaoaMnaamnaamgpomaoamnanmna 

■■■DIIIDIIIDIIiaillDIIIDIIIDI 

■OBBBdBBBDBBBQBBBDBBBOBBBaBBB 
* A 1 AA AA A A / 

Fig. 3. 

thickness and moisture-absorbing 
qualities. 

BRAID WICKING. 
This differs from a solid braid, as in 
braided rope and clothes lines, in hav- 
ing a core of very soft, coarse roving, 
around which have been braided finer 
yarns of a good strength and quality. 
There are 10 strands of roving for the 
core and 32 ends of fine 2-ply mercer- 
ized yarn for the braided covering. 
The latter imparts the requisite 
strength to the fabric, while the* other 
desirable qualities are furnished by the 
roving. This wick is so constructed 
that the core could be withdrawn 
without interfering with the construc- 
tion of the covering. There are about 
72 yards per pound. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



707 



There are three methods adopted for 
making heavy, thick fabrics: First, by 
means of coarse yarns; second, by 
means of compound structures of 
cloth; third, by combining the first and 
second methods. 

Flat lamp wicking requires an extra 
laige surface, one deeper than can 01- 
dinarily be obtained by using coarse 
yarns in a single weave structure. It 
id usually woven with coarse warp 
yarns and comparatively fine, strong 
filling yarns, with double plain weaves 
of equal structure arranged 1 and 1 
in both warp and filling, the twc single 
fabrics being bound together into one 
compound fabric by other yarns, 
termed ties or binders, which interlace 
with both with more or less frequency. 
Where as firm a structure as is pos- 
sible is wanted, the ties are arranged 
as extras to work the single plain 
weave, as shown by the crosses in Fig. 
1. This entire figure is the base weave 
upon which the design for this wick- 
ing has been constructed. Ends 1 to 4, 
repeated, would form a tube cr hose 
pipe fabric, the picks going first into 
one cloth and then the other on alter- 
nate picks. Solid type shows the face 
weave, type □ the back weave, type « 
face ends raised when back picks are 
inserted. Back ends are depressed on 
picks 1 and 3, when face picks are in- 
serted. The complete weave is shown 
in Fig. 2, and is on 38 ends and 4 picks. 
Letter F indicates face ends. B in- 
dicates back ends. T indicates ties. 
The arrows indicate where the ends 
are divided by the reed, eight dents 
being used. 

The construction data of this wick- 
ing is as follows: Warp, 2-ply 5s cot- 
ton; filling, 2-ply 15s cotton: width, % 
inch; ends in wick, 38, of which seven 
are ties; picks per inch, 18%. The 
warp contains very little twist in the 
single strands and only five turns per 
inch in the ply yarn. There are no 
selvages such as are usually made on 
other types of goods. 

ROUND, HOSE OR TUBE WICKING. 
This wicking has been made with 
weave, Fig. 3, with two ends working 
together as one. An examination' of 
this will show that it is constructed on 
the same principle as the first four 
ends of Fig. 1, th^ two cloths being 



tied only at the sides where the filling 
changes from interlacing with one 
series of ends to the other series every 
pick. The arrows indicate where the 
ends are reeded. The two outer dents 
on each side contain only four ends 
each, whereas the remainder of the 
warp is reeded six ends (3 doubles) 
per dent. 

The construction of this wicking is 
as follows: Warp, 2-ply 5s cotton soft 
twisted; filling, 3-ply 15s cotton; 
width, 1% inches; ends in wick, 106 as 
53; picks per inch, 28; yards per 
pound, 15. The warp yarns are ar- 
ranged 52 ends of white and 1 of blue, 
repeated once. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

For braid wicking a braiding ma- 
chine is required. For flat and round 
wicking, narrow width cam looms, 
varying in construction according to 
the weight and width of wicking to be 
woven, are used. 

For the narrow wicking an ordinary 
tape loom may be used, in which each 
wicking has its separate warp or 
warps. The warps for wide wicking 
are usually run on wide beams, and 
the yarn divided in the loom. In order 
to make a soft wicking on these the 
tying ends are run from a beam as in 
an ordinary loom. The other yarns 
are run from one or two separate 
beams, and are regulated by an at- 
tachment which draws them forward 
in a positive manner in order to avoid 
the strain usually caused when the 
yarn has to draw the beam forward. 

Each of the fabrics under considera- 
tion has been woven from one beam. 
In the flat wicking the plain ends work 
tighter than the other ends on account 
of the larger number of interlacings. 
This causes them to sink below the 
plane occupied by the double cloth. 
ends and also causes the latter to be 
and appear somewhat loose. 
FINISHING. 

There is practically no finishing 
given these goods, as they are simply 
cut into definite lengths and packed, 
after being woven. The yarn for some 
of the wicking is bleached or dyed be- 
fore being woven. Where colored 
i^nci a~e used, they are usually ar- 
ranged in the warp to make a striped 
fabric. 



70S 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Manufacturers of wicking generally 
buy their yarns from cotton yarn 
mills and it is in this latter class of 
mills that coarse and m fine counts of 
yarns are made. Generally speaking, 
the so-called yarn mills do not belong 
to any of the divisions of mills given 
in a previous article, but are rather 
in a class or division by themselves, 
being ready and equipped to fill orders 
for all counts of yarn, either carded or 
combed. Of course there are yarn 
mills making a specialty of fine yarns, 
but, generally speaking, this class of 
mills make yarn for the knitting 
trade, which as a rule does not call 
for as high counts of yarn as a fine 
goods mill. 

In this class of mills a great many 
MORE CHANGES 
are made than in mills making cloth, 
some of the latter mills' card rooms 
running from one year's end to the 
next without a change in the hank 
roving or stock, whereas in the yarn 
mills changes are made daily. This is 
on account of filling the orders for 
small knitting plants, of which there 
are a great number throughout the 
country. Generally speaking, more 
care has to be used in a yarn mill than 
in a cloth mill, both on account of the 
many changes and also on account of 
the yarn being sold and not woven in 
the same mill, where the smaller de- 
fects may be covered. Of course, in 
both mills the yarn should run as even 
as possible, but this fault should be 
looked after particularly in yarn mills. 
In yarn mills 

THE TWIST 
of the yarn is less than in cloth mills, 
and this class of mills is generally 
equipped with mules instead of spin- 
ning frames to obtain this result. Par- 
ticular care should be taken in yarn 
mills to -see that no "mix-ups" occur 
in any part of the card room on ac- 
count of the carelessness of those 
changing the gears, and it is a good 
idea to have specially prepared forms 
to be filled out when each change is 
made at the slubbers, fly frames and 
mules or spinning frames. After these 
forms are made out by the one mak- 
ing the change, they should be handed 
in and checked by the overseer. 



For making the tube wicking, the 
counts of the yarn are as follows: 2-ply 
5s warp soft twist and 3-ply 15s regu- 
lar twist, while the filling or center 
portion or core is made up of 2-ply 
1 hank roving. These counts of yarn 
are all made from the same 

STAPLE AND GRADE 
of cottcn, generally cotton from % to 1 
inch in staple of a good grade being 
used. In large mills an openirg shed 
is built and the cotton is opened and 
fed to the opener hoppers or feeders, 
several being placed in a row and 
from here blown over to the mill prop- 
er, where it is received and carried 
by arrangements of endless belts to its 
proper bins. When the cotton is thus 
opened it is in a dry, fluffy state and 
may be used at once and does not have 
to stand, as is the case when the cot- 
ton is mixed by the hand method, 
which has been previously described. 

The cotton is put through a feeder 
and three processes of pickers. The 
feeder picker should always be kept 
filled up with cotton, so that the lift- 
ing apron will always- be filled up. 
The breaker beater is equipped with 
two sets of cages and two beaters. The 
breaker beater has three arms and 
blades, and its speed is 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. 

THE FRONT BEATER 
has two blades and its speed is also 1,- 
400 revolutions per minute, but it must 
be remembered that the cotton does 
not receive as much oeating as it does 
at the three-bladed beater, on account 
of having one less blade. The weight 
of a yard of lap at the machine is 16 
ounces. On the breaker picker there 
is no evener and the amount of cotton 
fed is regulated by the distance of the 
pin or stripping beater from the lifting 
apron. The laps from tiiis machine are 
put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the 
intermediate picker. 

This picker is generally equipped 
with a two-bladed beater, its speed 
being 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of a yard of lap at the 
front is 12 ounces. This picker has an 
evener, which should be looked after 
carefully to see that it is doing its 
duty. The laps from this picker are 
put up at the finisher picker, 
and doubled 4 into 1. This picker may 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



709 



be equipped with either a two-bladed, 
rigid beater or a pin beater which has 
three arms equipped with pins. If the 
latter beater is used, the speed for this 
style should be 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of a 50-yard lap 
should be 46 pounds or a 14.7-ounce 
per yard lap. 

Every lap should be weighed and a 
variation of one-half a pound either 
side of standard allowed. All laps 
which vary more than this should be 
put back to be run over again. Care 
should be taken to see that every lap 
is weighed, and if laps do not weigh 
within the limit, the evener should be 
adjusted to allow the next lap to come 
within this weight limit. These laps 
are put up at the card, th3 draft of 
which should not exceed 100. The 
speed of the flats should be one revo- 
lution every 40 minutes (110 flats) ; 
the speed of the licker-in 300 revolu- 
tions per minute and the doffer about 
lZy 2 revolutions per minute. The gen- 
eral instruction for settings, grinding 
and stripping given previously may be 
followed. The 

PRODUCTION OF A CARD 
for 60 hours for this class of work is 
850 pounds and the weight of the sliv- 
er 65 grains per yard. If the yarn is 
combed, it passes through the sliver 
lap machine, where it is doubled 16 in- 
to 1 for an 8%-inch lap, the weight per 
yard being 420 grains. These laps are 
put up at the ribbon lap machine and 
doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a 
yard of lap at this machine is 440 
grains for a 10%-inch lap. The rib- 
bon lap machines should be sized 
twice a day and a variation of seven 
grains per yard allowed before chang- 
ing tiie draft gear. These laps are 
put up on an 8-head comber and dou- 
bled 8 into 1. The weight of a yard 
of sliver at the delivery end of this 
machine should be about 65 grains per 
yard. 

THE SAME SETTINGS 
and timing for this machine may be 
used as have been given previously for 
a 6-head, 8%-inch lap comber of the 
Heilman type of combers. The per- 
centage of waste taken out is 18. This 
sliver is then put through two process- 
es of drawing, the weight at the fin- 
isher drawing being 70 grains per 



yard. If the cotton is not combed, 
three processes of drawing frames are 
used, the weight of the sliver being 
the same as when combed. Size draw- 
ing four times a day, allowing two 
grains either side of standard weight. 
The drawing sliver is next put through 
the si bber and made into .40 hank 
roving. From here it is passed to the 
first intermediate fly frame and made 
into 1 hank roving. The roving for 
the core is twisted slightly more than 
that used for the warp and filling 
yarns, generally 1 or 2 less teeth used 
on the twist gear being sufficient. The 
roving for the core is then twisted into 
2-ply. For the warp yarn the yarn is 
soft spun at the mule into 5s yarn and 
then twisted into 2-ply yarn. For the 
filling yarn the first intermediate rov- 
ing requires one more process of fly 
frames, which makes it into 3-hank 
roving. This is taken either to the 
mule room or the spinning room and 
spun into 15s, after which it is twisted, 
being made into 2-ply 15s yarn. 

The rules and instructions for the 
top rolls given in previous articles may 
also be applied to this article. 



EOLIENNE 

Eolienne is the name applied to a 
fine dress fabric characterized by 
having the filling of a much coarser 
count than the warp, and in conse- 
quence producing a corded effect 
across the breadth of the goods. 
This class of goods is made up of a 
raw silk warp and either cotton or 
worsted filling, with the warp ends 
per inch greatly in excess of picks per 
inch. 

In fabrics constructed on this basis 

THE WARP THREADS 

practically cover the filling and pro- 
duce — with a silk warp — a very glossy 
fabric, another feature of an eolienne. 

This fabric finds favor with the fem- 
inine sex practically the year round, 
being very popular for dressy indoor 
occasions in the cooler periods of the 
year, as well as dressy outdoor wear 
for summer. 

The goods are made up in the gray, 
then dyed in the piece, in any color 
that the trade desires. The darker 



710 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



shades find most favor for fall and 
winter use, while the lighter shades 
are preferred for summer wear. Eo- 
lienne 

VARIES IN WIDTH. 
The cotton filling fabric finishes at 27 
inches, while the better grade worsted 
filling finishes at 40 inches and retails 
at from 85 cents to $1.25 per yard and 
the narrow cotton filling fabric retails 
at from 25 to 45 cents per yard. The 
variation in price is naturally inilu- 
enced by the material in the goods, 
that is, the ends and picks per inch, 
consequently we find a comparatively 
wide range in the construction of these 
fabrics. The manufacturer, however, 
must bear in mind that the fabrics 
should be perfectly firm in order to 
withstand the wear of a dress fabric. 

PLAIN WOVEN FABRICS 
lend themselves more readily to a va- 
riation in texture with a given count 
of yarns than does any other method 
of interlacing warp and filling threads, 
this being due to plain woven fabrics 
having more intersections to the repeat 
of the weave than any other weave. 

In varying the texture, we must bear 
in mind the nature of the material to 
be used, as certain kinds of yarns re- 
quire less ends per inch than others of 
a given count to produce a firm fab- 
ric. In the construction of an eolienne 
which is made up of a silk warp, silk, 
being the smoothest of textile fibres, 
would require more threads per inch 
than a fabric composed of woolen 
fibres, as the silk threads will not cling 
to one another or full up in the finish- 
ing as would a fabric composed of 
woolen fibres; consequently silk warp 
fabrics usually have a very high warp 
texture. 

ANALYSIS. 

Cotton filling fabrics: Width of 
warp in reed, 30 inches; width of fab- 
ric finished, 28 inches; ends per inch 
in reed, 90; ends per inch, finished, 96. 

Reed, 45 x 2. 

Silk wan), 21-23s denier silk: cotton 
filling, 2-50s combed cotton; 58 picks. 

WORSTED FILLING EOLIENNE. 

Width of warp in reed, 44 Inches; 
width of fabric, finished, 40 Inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 150; ends per 
inch, finished, 166. 



Reed, 50x3. 

Silk warp, 2l-23s denier silk; total 
number of ends in warp, 6,600; 40 ends 
additional each side or selvage, 80; 
total, 6,680 ends. 

Worsted filling, l-50s French spun; 
picks per inch, 64. 

These fabrics may be woven on any 
light, smooth running roller or dobby 
loom. The warp is drawn straight on 
eight harnesses through French string 
heddles. The speed of the loom may 
with advantage run from 130 to 140 
picks per minute. 

FINISHING. 

Eolienne requires little in this re- 
spect. After ihe goods reacn the dye- 
house, they are boiled off, then dyed as 
desired, run through the rotary press 
and made up into laps or rolls of about 
40-yard pieces. Then they are ready 
for the commission house. 

When eoliennes are made with dyed 
yarns the finishing process as noted is 
rather simple, but when raw silk and 
grey cotton yarns are used more nu- 
merous processes are necessary. The 
fabric has to be boiled out in order to 
take the gum from the silk, it has to 
be bleached, and handled in various 
methods to produce even results and 
then has to be dyed or printed, as the 
case may be. Sometimes such fabrics 
are dyed by a cross-dyeing process, 
wherein the silk will be one color and 
the cotton an entirely different color. 
In other instances the silk will remain 
white with the cotton dyed the color 
desired. Possibly there has been more 
improvement made during the past 
few years in the dyeing and finishing 
of these silk and cotton mixture fab- 
rics than in any other section of the 
market. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for eolienne are made In 
mills of the third division as given in 
a previous article. The count of yarn 
taken for an example of this class of 
goods is 2-50s cotton filling, the warp 
yarns being made of raw silk. In this 
article we will give the foundation for 
making this count of yarn for this 
class of goods. While the count >f 
yarn is not what would be called a fine 
one, still the general construction of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



711 



the goods calls for a fairly good 
length of staple of a good grade of cot- 
ton, sometimes the yarns being mer- 
cerized and gassed. The sample calls 
for a cotton of good grade of 1*4 -inch 
staple. This cotton is put through two 
processes of picking, the speed of the 
beaters being 1,500 and 1,250 revolu- 
tions per minute, respectively, for the 
beater and finisher. The weight of the 
lap at the finisher should be 37% 
pounds, or a 12-ounce lap. The card 
should be equipped with 35s wire fillet 
for the cylinder and 37s doffer and flats. 
The speed of the licker-in should not 
exceed 300 revolutions per minute; the 
speed of the flats, one complete revolu- 
tion every 40 minutes, and about 9% 
per cent of dirt, strip, etc., taken out. 
Strip three times a day and grind as 
before stated. 

SETTINGS 

should be close. ' Special attention 
should be paid to the licker-in, both 
as regards its speed and also as to its 
setting. The feed plate should be set 
far enough away not to break the 
staple and not so far as to allow 
the licker-in to continuously draw 
bunches into the cylinder. The 
draft should be about 110 and the 
weight of the sliver 55 grains per yard. 
The production should not exceed 525 
pounds for a week of 60 hours. The 
cotton sliver is next put through a 
sliver lap machine, the doublings for 
an 8% -inch lap being 16 into 1, the 
weight being 400 grains per yard. 
These laps are put up at the ribbon 
lap machine and doubled 6 into 1, and 
made into a lap on a 10%-Inch spool. 
The weight of this lap should be about 
420 grains. These are put up at the 
comber and doubled 8 into 1. For the 
Heilman machine the end cam should 
be set as follows: with the 80-tooth 
gear out of mesh, set roller on pawl 
arm in heel of large cam, turn index 
gear to 5% and slide 80-tooth gear into 
mesh and bolt. Set detaching rolls to 
fluted segment with 21 gauge. Set nip- 
pers to open at 3% index gear and 
close at 9%. Set lifters down at 6% 
and up at 8% to 9; top combs down at 
5; detaching rolls beginning to move at 
6 and feed roll at 4, or according to 
amount of waste to be taken out. Set 
cushion plate to half lap with an 18 



gauge and top combs to fluted segment 
with a 21 gauge. Use a 15-16 inch stock 
gauge. Use a 30-degree angle ou nipper 
knife. For this stock take out 18 to 20 
per cent waste. The weight of the sliv- 
er delivered is 60 grains per yard. 
Speed of comber is 90 nips per minute. 
The sliver is next put through 

TWO PROCESSES 

of drawing frames. For this class of 
goods use a front roller speed of 350 
and have leather top rolls well var- 
nished and see that all stop-motions 
work properly. 

Weight of sliver at finisher drawing 
frame is 70 grains per yard. At the 
slubber make .55 hank roving and use 
three processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each being 1.25 at first; 4 at 
second, and 10% at fine frame. Spin 
the roving into 50s, on a ring frame, 
with a 2%-inch spindle gauge, 1%- 
inch diamond ring and a 5-inch trav- 
erse. If mercerized yarn is wanted, 
spin with a soft twist, otherwise use 
the regular cloth twist, which for this 
yarn would be as follows: twist per 
inch, 22.98; revolutions per minute of 
front roller, 100 plus; revolutions per 
minute of spindle, 7,250. After which 
the yarn goes through the usual proc- 
esses to be twisted into 2-ply 50s. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

PINK. 

One-quarter per cent Erika pink G.; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
One-half per cent diamine SK. blue; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

OLIVE. 
Two per cent diamine green G.; % 
per cent diamine fast yellow B.; % per 
cent diamine brown B.; 1 per cent sal 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 
HELIOTROPE. 
Two per cent diamine heliotrope; 1 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Eight per cent immedial indigo B.; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 5 per cent 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 



712 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



MYRTLE. 
Eight per cent immedial deep green 
B.; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 5 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

FAWN BROWN. 
One per cent diamine brown B.; Yz 
per ceDt diamine fast yellow B.; % per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 
SEAL BROWN. 
Four per cent diamine brown B.; 1 
per cent diamine fast yellow B.; 1 per 
cent diamine catechine B.; % Per cent 
sal coda; 30 per cent salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten per cent immedial black NN.; 
10 per cent sulphide of sodium; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent soda 

ash. 

SAGE GREEN. 

One-half per cent diamine green G.; 
1 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent salt. 
PEARL. 

One- sixteenth per cent diamine 
dark blue G.; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 
per cent Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

One per cent diamineral black B.; 1 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 



Selvage 



Border 



Body 



Selvage 



HANDKERCHIEFS 

Cotton handkerchiefs are constructed 
in various ways. Some are made from 
ordinary plain cotton cloth cut up and 
either hemmed, embroidered (usually 
with initials) or ornamented with Bat- 
tenburg or other forms of lace. Others 
are what may be termed "made in the 
loom," and are of such types as hem- 
stitched, in which a leno weave is used 
for the four borders to make a 
perforated effect, and corded handker- 
chiefs, in which corded effects are 
made for both the side and cross bor- 
ders. 

They vary in size, weight and qual- 
ity from the utilitarian red bandanna 
to the ladies' dainty ornamental lace 

3,T"ticlC 

In a characteristic handkerchief of 
the cord type, the layout of the entire 
warp, including the drawing-in draft, 
Is as follows: 



Ends. 
32 as 16 
32 
10 as 2 

6 
10 as 2 

6 
10 as 2 
14 

40 as 8 
14 
10 as 2 

6 
10 as 2 

6 

10 as 2 

1080 

152 

56 

56 

152 

10S0 

152 

32 

32 as 16 

300S ends 



Harness. 



5 6 
8 
3 4 



3 4 

8 
5 6 



Draw border 
3 4 5 6 

3 4 5 6 
Draw border 

Draw body 
Draw border 

3 4 5 6 

1 2 



Dents. 
8 

16 
2 
3 
2 
8 
2 
7 
8 
7 
2 
3 
2 
8 
2 

540 
46 
28 
1 
28 
46 

540 
46 
16 



Skip 



From the above layout it will be 
seen that two handkerchiefs are woven 
in the loom at the same time, side by 
side, one empty dent separating them, 
and that one beam only has been used. 
Each warp cord border consists of 100 
ends working as 20. 

THE SAME EFFECT 

could be obtained by using a coarser 
yarn, but the probabilities are that If 
this was done it would become neces- 
sary to use two. beams. Twenty-eight 
dents have been occupied between the 
cords and center empty dent to allow 
ample width for turning the edges un- 
der for hemming purposes. 

The construction data of this hand- 
kerchief are as follows: Warp counts, 
32s; filling counts, 40s; ends per inch, 
72 in plain part, 79 average; picks per 
inch, 70 in plain part, 77 average; 
ends in Mndkerchief, 1.504; picks in 
handkerchief, 1,454; width in loom, 40 
inches; width in gray, 38 inches; 
weight, 4.5 yards per pound. 

One of the principal points to consid- 
er in handkerchief weaving is the ar- 
rangement of the chain draft for the 
filling pattern and loom mechanism so 
that there will not be any more bars 
of pattern chain used than is neces- 

Sary ' THE FILLING PATTERN 
of the handkerchief under considera- 
tion, contains 1.454 picks. On an ordi- 
nary dobbv head this would require 
727*bars of double index, or 1,454 bats 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



713 



of single index chain. To avoid this 
excessive amount of chain there are 
several devices or loom attachments 
now on the market, comprising double 
or more cylinder repeater, multiplier, 
or handkerchief motions. 

Most of these require separate chain 
bars for the two borders and a certain 
number of bars for the plain, varying 
according to the type of motion used. 

Fig. 1 shows the chain draft t!.at has 
been used to produce the handkerchief 



The handkerchief was woven in a 
single box dobby loom from one beam. 
IFmight at first thought appear to be 
an advantage to weave cross borders 
of this type with coarse filling in a 
2x1 box loom, using one pick of coarse 
instead of five picks of fine filling, but 
the lowor speed at which it is neces- 
sary to run box looms and the more 
attention they require from weaver 
and loom fixer lessen this seeming ad- 
vantage. Single box cam looms, with 



Repeater 
motion.* 

•anaaaa 
mnmamam 
□aaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
DBaanaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaacn 

DDBDB2B 



DDi. 

oaaaaaa 
aasDDGH 

DBDBDBd 

OBaanaa 

OBOBQBa 

aaaaaBa 

Baaapao 
oaaiaa 

DQBDBDB 

ooanaaB 

aOBCBQB 
OQBDBDB 

apaaaaa 

DCBDBGB 
aBQBOBD 
DBDHDBa 

HaoBaaa 

DBDBDBa 

DBDBDBa 

DDBDBCO 

DDBDana 
□aaDBaa 
ddodhdS 
ddbqbdI 
oaaaoan 
QoBDanl 
aaaaaaa 
omamama 
aaoBDaa 
cmamama 
aaaaaaa 

8 aaaaaa 
aaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
Baaaaoa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 



Stop 
pegs 



a y Plain bar for body and plain In border. 

1 



-Repeat := 28 picks = 14 bars. 



= 10 picks = 5 bars. 



§ j.6 times = 12 picks = 6 bars. 

SI 



a I 8 times = 80 picks = 40 bars. 



Sj 

a t 6 times = 12 picks =r 6 bare, 
n r 



Repeat = 28 picks = 14 bars. 



85 bars for cross border. 
1 bar for plain. 



Total. 86 bars tor handkerchief. 



Fig.. 1. 



referred to, with the layout shown; 86 
double-index bars have been used for 
each handkerchief, one for the plain in 
center and borders, and 85 for the cord 
cross borders, with a repeat motion 
that is not on the market. The sel- 
vages have been woven plain. The 
harnesses for these have not been in- 
dicated on the chain draft, because 
they are worked in a positive manner 
by the lifter knives. 

♦Repeater motion refers only to left-hand 
vertical series of squares. 



handkerchief motions attached, in 
which sliding cams work the plain 
weave or remain in an open-shed posi- 
tion for a number of picks as required, 
are sometimes used. These admit of a 
much greater speed and steadier mo- 
tion than dobby looms. 
FINISHING. 
Cord handkerchiefs are usually 
bleached, cut, hemmed, folded, pressed 
and made up as required. Plain cloth 
handkerchiefs are similarly treated or 
are printed, usually red and white or 



714 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



blue and white, instead of being 
bleached. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that compose handker- 
chiefs are made in mills of the sec- 
ond and third divisions, as given in a 
previous article. Generally speaking, 
handkerchief yarns are combed, even 
the coarser yarns for the poorer qual- 
ity of handkerchiefs. The handker- 
chief taken for a sample is made up 
of 32s warp yarns and 40s filling 
yarns, and it is often found that a 
different count of yarn is used in the 
cords. 

For the sample under description, a 
good quality of American cotton of 
about 1% staple would be used. This 
would be mixed as has been before 
described, 

MACHINE MIXING 
being used if possible,- as it leaves 
the cotton in a more desirable condi- 
tion. An opener and three processes 
of picking are used, although in 
some fine cloth mills only two process- 
es of picking are used, and excellent 
results obtained. Some overseers con- 
sider that an intermediate picker is 
not necessary, and, in fact, claim that 
instead of benefiting the cotton, it is 
a detriment, as it puts neps into the 
cotton. While this may be true, good 
results are obtained by either process, 
and one has to be governed by cir- 
cumstances as he finds them, as it 
very often happens in a cotton mill 
that no hard and fast rule can be giv- 
en, the object being to get a good, 
clean, even yarn with strength, and on 
the mark as to count, and also to get 
as much as possible as cheap as pos- 
sible. At the feeder have it feeding 
as even as possible and remember 
that on the pin roller 

DEPENDS THE EVENNESS 
o f the ^ap at the breaker. The break- 
er is equipped with two sets of cages 
and beaters, the breaker beater hav- 
ing three blades, and making 1,400 
revolutions per minute, while the 
front beater has two blades, and al- 
so makes 1,400 revolutions per min- 
ute. It will thus be seen that the 
cotton passing under the three-bladed 



beater receives one-third more beat- 
ing than when passing under the for- 
ward beater of the same machine. A 
full lap should weigh 40 pounds, or 
a 16-ounce lap. If three processes of 
pickers are used, these laps are dou- 
bled 4 into 1 at the intermediate 
picker. The total weight of a lap at 
this machine should be 38 pounds, or 
a 14-ounce lap. At the finisher pick- 
er the doublings are also 4 into 1. 
The speed of a beater of this picker is 
1,425, if equipped with a pin beater, 
and 1,450 if a two-bladed, rigid type is 
used. The total 

WEIGHT 
of a lap is 37^ pounds for a 40-yard 
lap, or a 15-ounce lap. All the laps 
as they are taken off the picker should 
be weighed, a variation of one-half 
a pound either side of the standard 
weight being allowed. The roving 
waste (cut) should be mixed as be- 
fore stated, or better still if it is run 
through a special roving machine, 
and then put back into the mixing. 
In this manner scarcely any "lickin" 
laps are made, granted, of course, that 
too much cut waste is not being made, 
or too little cotton being used. Cut- 
roving waste and also card, sliver 
lap, ribbon lap, comber and drawing 
frame good waste is a serious prob- 
lem, and it should not be allowed to 
accumulate, but should be used up as 
fast as made. The laps are put up 

AT THE CARD. 
This card is, generally speaking, the 
so-called English card. It should have 
as large a doffer as possible, either a 
26 or 27 inch diameter being used by 
mill men nowadays. The size of wire 
fillet used should be that used for 
making medium counts of yarn, i. e., 
No. 34s or 110s for cylinder, and No. 
36s or 130s for doffer and flats. The 
draft of the card should not be less 
than 110. The speed of the licker-in 
should be about 400 revolutions per 
minute. The flats should make one 
complete revolution every 40 minutes. 
Strip, grind and set as given in pre- 
vious articles. The production of the 
card for a week of 60 hours should be 
600 pounds. If this yarn is to be 
combed, it is generally run through 
the sliver lap machine, where it Is 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



715 



doubled 14 into 1, and weighs 250 
grains per yard for an 8% -inch lap, 
after which it id put up at the ribbon 
lap machine and doubled 6 into 1, the 
weight of a yaid of lap at the front 
being 275 grains. These laps should 
be 

SIZED TWICE A DAY, 

a variation of 5 grains per yard 
either side of the standard weight be- 
ing allowed before changing. At the 
comber use the same settings, timings 
and gauges as given In the last arti- 
cle. The combed sliver should weight 
45 grains for a 6-head comber, and 
proportionately more for an 8-head 
comber. For these goods about 15 per 
cent of waste is taken out. Watch the 
needles on the half laps and top 
combs, for remember that if these are 
broken or bent, the cotton is not re- 
ceiving its proper combing, and as this 
is an extra item in the cost, these lit- 
tle points should be looked after. An- 
other part of the comber to watch is 
the table, to keep it free from dirt and 
oil, and well polished and smooth at 
all times. This is because after leav- 
ing the comber the cotton receives no 
more cleaning, so that dirt even in 
the sliver is apt to stay there. 

PERCENTAGES OF THE COMBER 

should be taken frequently and all 
comber percentages kept as even as 
possible, for if there is much varia- 
tion it will show up and make uneven 
yarn. Another point to watch is the 
leather top rolls. These should be 
kept well varnished, with a varnish 
which will last at least three weeks, 
although the detaching rolls should be 
given one coat of varnish every week. 
Varnish should be applied with a 
brush. At the drawing frame, the 
comber sliver is put through two 
processes, the doublings being 8 into 
1 at the breaker, and 6 into 1 at the 
finisher. The weight per vard at the 
finisher drawing frame is 70 grains per 
yard. At this machine 

THE MAIN POINTS 
to watch are the knock-off motions, 
roller settings and top rolls. For 
drawing frame top leather rolls a 
varnish should be used which is 
smoother and glossier than that used 
for the comber rolls. Usually this is 



obtained by using Venetian red, in- 
stead of burnt sienna, as a color mix- 
ing. At the slubber, the drawing is 
made up into .60 hank roving. Watch 
the twist and tension. If top leather 
rolls are varnished, the same varnish 
as is used for the drawing frame may 
be used, except for the fact that it is 
thinned down by adding acetic acid 
or vinegar. The roving is then put 
through two processes of fly frames. 
At the first intermediate it is made 
into 2 hank, and at the fine it is made 
into &Y 2 for warp, and 8 hank for fill- 
ing. At these frames watch the fol- 
lowing parts: tension, twist, setting 
of steel rolls, traverse and roving 
waste. Be sure to have no dead spin- 
dles. The 

YARN FOR THE FILLING 
is spun into 40s on a frame with a 
1%-inch diameter ring, 5% -inch trav- 
erse, and a spindle speed of 8,800 rev- 
olutions per minute, after which the 
filling is conditioned, and is then 
ready for weaving. The roving for 
warp is spun into 32s, on a frame with 
2% -inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 
and spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions 
per minute. The yarn is then spooled, 
warped and put through a slasher, and 
run upon a beam at the front. Gener- 
ally speaking, this beam is made up of 
sections of small beams known as 
handkerchief beams, on which are 
wound the required number of ends. 



DIAPER CLOTH 

Cotton diaper cloth may be con- 
sidered a staple fabric, being made in 
the same widths, grades and patterns 
year in and year out. 

Standard widths are 18 inches, 20 



OOOBOBnO 

DDinanBO 

DBOCIDOQB 

maaamaun 

DBODODDB 
□aBaDQBD 

DDDBDIDU 

■aaD«aa j 
KIk. 1. 



5 
4 i 

3 3 
2 2 

S>. 2. 



I 



raaaaBu 

BGQGBuu 
rjBJ*Uua 
BJBQDDB 
UBDBaOO 

■DDDBan 

QBDDDBO 

SDBDOaB 

Fix 3. 



inches, 22 inches, 24 inches and 27 
inches. 

Essential qualities required for 
these goods are freedom from foreign 
matter, and ability to absorb mois- 
ture. Being subjected to excessive 
washings when in use, they have to 
be of fair quality. 



716 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



For the ordinary qualities ox goods, 
Allen Seed, Benders, Mobile, New 
Orleans and Texas cotton of middling 
and strict middling grades are used. 
In the lower qualities, card and rov- 
ing wa&te is used for the filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

A diaper fabric under consideration 
is constructed as follows: Width, 18% 
inches, probably intended for 18 inch- 
es; ends per inch, 62; picks per inch, 
46; warp counts, 30s; filling counts, 



process, which renders the fabric ab- 
sorbent to a large degree, as well as 
antiseptic. 

Fig. 2 shows the center or point 
harness draft, and Fig. 3 the chain 
draft, to use to produce the fabric 
under consideration. As harness 
number 5 works like harness number 
1, it might be omitted, and the ends 
drawn on number 1 instead. 

If the ends were drawn in straight, 
the chain draft would be similar to 
the weave, with selvages extra. 



7.82 lbs. filling. 



CALCULATIONS. 
46 (picks) x 20 (width in reed) x 100 (length of cut) 

14 (counts x S40) 

100 (yds.) -r- 7.83 (yds. per pound) = 12.77 lbs., weight of cut. 
12.77 — 7.82 = 4.95 lbs. warp. 
18% (width of cloth) x G2 sley = 1,162. 
1,162 + 24 for selvages = 1,186, total ends. 
l,186(ends) x 105 (length) 

= 30s warp counts. 

4.95 (weight) x 840 




-■..'- - ■ - ■'-: '■:■ 



Diaper Cloth. 



14s; weight, 7.83 yards per pound; 
weave, Fig. 1. The selvages consist 
of 24 ends of 30s as 12 on each side, 
and have been reeded 4 ends per dent; 
they weave plain. The body of the 
cloth has been reeded two ends per 
dent. 

The combination of a filling flush 
weave, only one end out of 4 being 
up on each pick and a soft, coarse 
filling as compared to the warp, tends 
to make the face of the cloth very 
soft. This is aided by the finishing 



LOOM REQUIRED. 

Diaper cloth may be woven on sin- 
gle box dobby or cam looms. If wo- 
ven on the latter, a cam arrangement 
of 8 picks to the round, with selvage 
motion extra, would be required. As 
it is not necessary to stop production 
for ordinary misweaves, the cam loom 
would be the best to use on account 
of its steadier running. 

The object of the finishing process 
is to rid the fabric of the cotton wax 
and foreign matter, and render it ab- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



717 



sorbent, white and clean. This is ac- 
complished by treating with an alka- 
line' solution of caustic soda, bleach- 
ing, washing and drying. It is then 
sterilized by formaldehyde or steam, 
dried, and made up, usually in 10- 
yard bolts covered with a sealed 
wrapper. 



BALINE 



Baline refers to a class of goods 
that is, in point of texture, between 
the coarser stuff known as burlap and 
the lighter and somewhat finer mate- 
rial known as canvas. 

Baline is practically a coarse kind of 
canvas. It is made from the best 
grades of jute, flax and hemp and is 
used for numerous purposes. The very 
coarse quality is used principally for 
wrapping merchandise, and the finer 
grades are used for curtains and up- 
holstery purposes, and also for stiffen- 
ing wearing apparel, etc. 

Baline, as used for stiffening wear- 
ing apparel, is inserted between the 
surface cloth and the lining, usually at 
the lapels and sleeves, in order both 
to stiffen and retain the shape of set- 
ting of that portion of the garment. 

THE GOODS 

are made in various widths; that used 
for upholstery purposes ranges from 
50 to 64 inches, and that used 
for tailoring purposes usually comes 
in narrow widths from 22 to 33 
inches. The narrow goods, however, 
are usually woven double width with 
fast center selvages, then cut in two 
parts during the finishing. 

Baline is made in several qualities. 
The best grades are made up entirely 
of tow yarn, a short flax fibre, another 
grade is made with a combination of 
tow yarn and hemp or jute, and the 
lower qualities are usually made en- 
tirely from either hemp or jute. 

In the combination fabric the hemp 
or jute usually figures as filling, while 
the flax or tow yarn is used for the 
warp, because the latter is with less 
difficulty made up into a smoother and 
stronger thread than either hemp or 
jute. The warp and filling for 
these goods interlaces on the plain 



weave 'system. The goods used for 
decorating purposes are dyed in the 
piece and the prevailing colors are 
dark red, garnet, and various shades 
of blue. The goods used tor wrapping 
merchandise and tailoring purposes 
are finished in their natural color, 
which is a kind of drab, or light 
brown, depending on the material used 
in the construction of the goods. 

The baline used for tailoring pur- 
poses is the finest in point of texture, 
and the goods used for decorative pur- 
poses closely resemble the common 
burlap, as far as texture is concerned. 
In the finishing, the coarser grade of 
baline receives considerable attention, 
being dyed and sheared, and presents 
a much more attractive appearance 
than the common burlap, which is only 
pressed after it comes from the loom. 

Analysis of goods used for stiffening: 

Width in reed, double width, 50 
inches; finished at iiy 2 inches. 

Reed, 16 x 2, 34 picks per inch; 
warp, 12 cut tow yarn; filling, 12 cut 
jute: ends in warn, 1,600; extra ends 
for all, 8; total, 1,608; weight per yard, 
15 ounces. ' 

Take-up in warp during weaving 
about 15 per cent. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing of these goods depends 
entirely upon the use for which the 
fabric is intended. The quality used 
for upholstery purposes and curtains is 
dyed after the goods are woven, then 
sheared on both sides and usually 
softened, especially so if intended for 
curtains. The goods used for tailoring 
purposes are finished in their natural 
color and stiffened. Some are stiffened 
much more than others, depending on 
the use for which they are made. The 
materials used for stiffening are glue 
and flour. If a very stiff finish is de- 
sired, equal proportions of glue and 
flour are used. The goods used for 
wrapping are merely sprinkled, then 
pressed, after which they are made up 
into rolls or laps. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Three and one-half per cent formyl 
blue B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent alum. 



718 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



BLACK. 

Five per cent jute black G. ; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent alum. 
RED. 

Five per cent fast red R. ; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent alum. 
SKY BLUE. 

One per cent patent blue B. ; 25 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent alum. 

Most of the acid colors can be dyed 
on this fabric with Glauber's and alum 
at the temperature of about 190 de- 
grees, in a jig dye machine. The 
goods are boiled out with Glauber's 
salt and sal soda to soften the fibre a 
little before the dyeing operation. 

The addition of a little acetic acid 
the last fifteen minutes is beneficial 
to most colors. 



HONEYCOMB CLOTH 

Honeycomb cloth derives its name 
from its very close resemblance to an 
ordinary wax honeycomb. 

In combination with other weaves 
the honeycomb type of weave is ex- 
tensively used in the manufacture of 
honeycomb and so-called crochet 
quilts. It is also used for cotton warp 
and wool filling shawls and baby car- 
riage robes, in which the warp is con- 
siderably finer than the filling in or- 
der that it will show as little as pos- 
sible. 

The honeycomb type of weave was 
formerly used to some extent in the 
construction of cotton toweling. The 
cell-like fabric, which is practically 
identical in appearance on both sides, 
would appear to be excellently adapted 
for toweling, the plain weave portions 
giving the necessary strength and the 
long floats of yarn steadily absorbing 
moisture, but for some reason or other 
it is not seen in the market to any ex- 
tent at the present time. 

Low and medium counts of yarn are 
usually used for honeycomb cloths. 

Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate two honey- 
comb weaves, on 8 ends by 6 picks and 
8 ends by 8 picks, respectively. A 
study of these will show that some 
ends and picks interlace more than 
others in a repeat of the weave and 



that they are constructed on diamond 

bases. 

Unlike the majority of single weave 
cloths, the effect in honeycomb cloth 
differs entirely from that seen on the 



BGaBBQ9QaGEBBBBG 
QBQBSBQBGaDflaBDB 
UGauBLJDjaLjBUBGBU 
DGvBQBOOQOQBCjIJOa 
DDBaBQBDaDBDBGBa 
I lEO3*3afrDB0BBBDa 
raQafflSfflBDBQBBBBBQ 
□fflafflEBfflnSCIBDBBBDB 

nn^n^nsGDr bcbgbg 
Daa^d^GaaaQBaBGG 
aaaaaa*aaaBGBGBG 

Fig. 1. 



LBGBBBGBaaGBBBLB 
tiDKIBIICILIIIlia 

LBuBBaGBQBGBBBGB 
GGBGBGBGGGBGBGBG 
UGDBGBQQQQQBGBDD 

GaaaapaaaaacBaaa 

GGDBC'OeanDDDBDBCa 

aafflQfflafflaaaBaBGBQ 

GBGtSffiffiGBuaGBBBGB 

E&aeEffilH*aBGBBBBBC 
GaaaBBDfflDBDBBBDB 
GOBGECBGaGBCBGBC 
DGGBOBCaOGQBOBCD 

caacBQcaaaGGBGCG 



Fig. 2. 



GaaBGBaaGaa_aBaBGBcn 

GGBGBBB _ BGGGBGaBBL BG 
CB"lBB»BBGfcG»GBBBBBG« 
■DIBflBiaGICfllBIKIID 
LIDOBiSbCC^ItuaiBIll B 
GCBGaBnGBGLLBCBBBGBQ 
GGGBGBC JBaaQGGBQBGBQa 

aaGaBQBaGGGaaaaaBaaa 
QaoBQiEGEGGaQGBOanaoa 

QGFail'GnaraGGBGBBBCBD 
CZrai.GaHEQSaBOBBBBBQB 
HGlEZJIErilZaBGBBBBBBBD 

a:: an - :: z EEazaaaBBBBBaa 

GQ-t'aEEL'ailGCGBnBBBDBD 

lggzg? zr -rcc: b rr *aa 
GGGaEGr.GcacrccEQB'_aa 

Fig. 3. 



aaaaBaBGaaGazaacBCGa 

aaGBQBGaaCGGGBGBGBGa 
GGBGBBnGBGUGBGBBBGBG 
GaGHaMBBGaGBGBkBBBGB 
BGBBSBBBBGa: BBSSBBBG 
GB •BaBBGBGBGBBBBBGB 
DDBGBBBGEGCGBGBBBDBn 
GGGBGBGSzCGCGaC BCBGG 
DJDDBD1 . ~ - ZftCBGDG 

GaaGaaGG^CGGGLCBnc gg 

I GDDeaDffinnDDDDDBDBQDn 

□GGiGSaaaCCCDBC BGBGD 

aa*3ai3'2-saE3aQa»G«B*GBa 
naDEBeaEBeafflnsDB; fehsck 

BGBaBBBBSCBr irillHD 
G3_ easaSiCBnBCBBBBBDB 
DG>5GaaaG5:-CQGBGBBBnBC 

i a jeaaQEionoroBGBCBon 

GGOGa^a^COGGGrBDBDC G 
GGGGGEGaGaCGCaLBGaCa 



Fig. 4. 



GCGGGGBaBaBGaCGG 
GuG_iGBGBQBaBQaGQ 

g j.. GaaaGBoaGBGaG 

uGGBGBGBBBGBGEGu 
G jBGBJBBBSBi-BCBQ 
GBGBGBBBBBBBGBGB 
BGBGBBBBHBBBBGBa 
GBGBBBBBaBBMBBGB 
BGaGBEBBBBRBaGBO 
GB1BGBBBBBBBGBGB 
G jBGBuBBBBBGBGBD 
GGGBGaaBBBGBGBan 
DnaGBuBGBGBOBDDD 

nGGGG^oBaaaBaaag 
GGnaaaBCBaaQaaan 

OnGDGGDBDBQDQDaa 

Fiff.5. 



GBGGBBBBBGGB 
BGBGGBBBGGBD 

UBGBGGBacBaa 

GGBGBGCCBGBG 
DDOBt BGBGBGa 

GaaaBQBCBaaD 

CGGBGBUBGBaO 

cGBaaaaaBOBn 

GBGBGGBOGBGB 
BZB" CBBBGOBC 

CBO^BBBBBGG* 
BGGBBBBBBBGC 

Fig 6. 



design paper, the diamond effect on 
the paper being substituted by the 
cellular effect in the cloth. This fea- 
ture is due to the fact that yarns ap- 
pear more or less prominent, when 
woven into the cloth, according to the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



'19 



smaller or greater amount of inter- 
lacings, respectively. 

WEAVES. 

In the type of cloth under considera- 
tion the longer floats of warp and fill- 
ing form the ridges of the honeycomb 
cells, while the yarns which interlace 
to a greater degree form the recesses 
of the same. The long warp floats on 
one side are opposite the filling floats 
on the other. 

Honeycomb weaves vary in size 
within certain limits. The larger the 
weave, the less firm the structure of 
the cloth. Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate 
weaves on 10 x 8 and 10 x 10, respec- 
tively. With the same amount of ma- 
terial, cloths constructed with these 
would not be as firm as they would if 
weaves Figs. 1 and 2 were substituted. 

When large effects are desired, the 
weave is modified and strengthened by 
the addition of a plain weave around 
the diamond, or, as it is termed, a dou- 
ble diamond is used for a base. 

Fig. 5 illustrates a weave of this 
type. 

Fig. 6 illustrates another variation 
of the honeycomb weave on 12 x 12. 
The type of design illustrated in Figs. 
2 and 4 is the one generally used. The 
crosses in Figs. 1 to 4 indicate one 
repeat of the weave. 

These fabrics are made on ordinary 
dobby looms. One beam only is used. 



BRIGHTON CLOTH 

Brighton cloth is distinguished by a 
general effect on the face somewhat 
similar to honeycomb cloth, but unlike 
the latter, it is not reversible, the ap- 
pearance on the back differing from 
that on the face. The principal dif- 
ference between honeycomb and 
Brighton weave effects is that the cells 
of the former appear of uniform size, 
on the square or rectangular base, 
whereas those of the latter appear in 
two sizes, large and small, alternately, 
both warp way and filling way, on the 
drop or plain weave order base. 

Brighton cloth is not essentially a 
cotton cloth, the Brighton weave, 
which distinguishes the fabric, 



being used in fabrics made 
with other materials. The Bright- 
on type of weave is used in 
making cloths intended for dress goods, 
also in combination with other weaves 
to form parts of large jacquard pat- 
terns, in substitution for the honey- 
comb weaves. 

In designing the jacquard patterns 
care must be exercised to have the 
Brighton weave correct, the long floats 
of warp and filling being in certain po- 
sitions in relation to each other, or the 
effect will be spoiled. For illustration, 
Figs. 1 and 2 are two weaves which 
at first glance appear to be similar. 
Fig. 1 is a correct Brighton weave and 
differs from Fig. 2 in having the long 
floats of yarn form a square, whereas 

jaoKmrnanaaaummna 
DODamamauamnmrnma 
aaaaomaaoaamamoa 
naoamaaouoLomaMa 
nanmamaoaLammmom 

OIJIRIlBLaiMHI 
"■"lIllOIJDIHDI 

oaBaM»inLDDD«OBq 
aaamamaaaoonomoa 

DOOQBOBQQDOCMDaa 

DOBBBBBQBCBOBBBg 



□ 



icibdi 



■"■■■■■□■□■■"■■ 
Pig-. 1. 

■■Dnnnnin«n»DDaB 

■ ■■DCOBQMBCMDBB 
■■BBOBDBBBBBOBBB 
■■HDBUBBBBBBBIBB 
■BGBDaaBBBBBDBDB 
■OBaunQOBBBDDQBQ 
DBGOQDQQ^BDUOnOB 
■DBdDODDBaDt DDDD 
DBOBDDDBBBDDQDOB 
■BBOBOBBBBBOL/L/BO 
aBBBOBBBBBBBDBQB 

■■■■■aiiiiioinii 

■■BBDBDBBBOB DOB 
BBBDDDBDBDBnaDDn 
DBQDOOnBDBBOODQU 

■ DDDClDDDBOaDDaDU 

Fig. 2. 

in the latter they form a cross. Figs. 3 
and 4 represent the long floats in Figs. 
1 and 2, respectively, vertical lines in- 
dicating warp floats and horizontal 
lines filling floats. 

Figs. 5 to 7 illustrate the several 
stages in the construction of a 12 x 12 
Brighton weave. Fig. 5 shows the 12 
x 12 diamond base. Crosses in Fig. 
6 indicate a second line of twill in one 
direction, added to the base, Fig. 5. 
Marks h in Fig. 7 indicate where warp 
spots have been added in the left and 
right hand corners of the large spaces, 
the same now being divided into two 



720 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



warp flush and two filling flush dia- 
monds of equal size. 

The ridges of the cells in the cloth 
are formed by the long floats of warp 
at the sides and the long floats of fill- 
ing at the top and bottom of each 
diamond. The two sizes of cells are 
formed by the intervals between the 
ridges being greater and less (at 
will be seen by Fig. 3, which simply 
indicates the ends and picks covered 
by the long floats in one repeat of 
weave Fig. 1), thereby enclosing larger 
and smaller areas, alternately. 



Fig. 3. 



Fig. 4. 

Brighton weaves are made on the 
same number of ends as picks, this 
number being a multiple of 4, on from 
8x8 upward. Figs. 1, 7 and 8 are the 
weaves generally used, the same be- 



ing on 16 x 16, 12 x 12 and 8x8, re- 
spectively. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
Brighton cloth is woven on a single 



•iMnnaanannnu 

□GBOnODDODPa 
□aDBDDDDDHGD 
□anQBDCID«QClQ 
DDDDDBDBDnna 

DGGGaaBaaaaa 
oaaaBaaaBaaa 

nDDBDGDDDBnn 

□GBoaaaaoaBa 

DBOnDDDnaDDB 

■QGDaaaaaaoa 
Fig. 5. 



QBonnaoaaaaB 

■QBQHDQDHHBa 

DDDBQDDDDBDB 

DDDDBnnaBDBa 

□ LlQHOBOBQBBa 

aasaHBaBDEaa 

QaaaBOBOBQHD 
DDDBDBDaDBCD 
DDBaBDDnDDBCl 
DBCBHSDnDEDB 

BDBHHHHDHHHa 



aBunanrjCCDCB 

HGBGLiOCGUQBG 
GDDBDDUDDBDffl 

QDaQBaDDBQffiJ 
DDDDDBaBDSDG 

DDDnnaBDffiDaa 
nDDDDBnBDang 

OODOBOfflDBDCP 

DDDBQSDDDBnD 
DDBDfflDDDDDBD 
□BJSODClOaC'CB 

mamtianaoanaa 
Fig. 6. 



■DIQIDDQ 

□bggdbdb 

bbbgbgbg 

□BGBBBDB 

bcdcbgbg 
gbgbgbgd 

BGBGBBBa 

■BDBGBGB 



Fig. 7. 



Fig. 8. 



box dobby loom from one warp and 
one filling. It is usually woven white 
and piece-dyed afterward. 



GALATEA 



Galatea cloth has been somewhat in 
demand the past two or three years by 
women requiring serviceable and neat- 
appearing cotton fabrics at a medium 
price. One selling house advertises it 
as being particularly suitable for chil- 
dren's dresses that have to be subject- 
ed to excessive wear, washing and 
ironing; also for women's outing suits, 
and shirtwaists. 

The demand appears to be increas- 
ing, probably partly due to the fact 
that one or more firms are specializing 
on the fabric and are advertising it. 

GALATEA 

is usually finished 27 inches wide and 
retails at 14 to 20 cents per yard. It is 
shown in plain colors as well as in fig- 
ured, dotted and striped designs on 
white and colored grounds. The pat- 
terns are obtained by printing. Some 
manufacturers have evidently found 
that they can take a standard type of 
fabric and extend its use by varying 
the process of finishing it. The base 
of the cloth, i. e., the fabric previous to 
bleaching, dyeing or printing, is noth- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



721 



ing more than an ordinary 5-end warp 
sateen of fair quality. 
A galatea in a 

SIMPLE STRIPE PATTERN 
is considered here, the analysis of 
which shows the following construc- 
tion data: width of cloth, 27 inches; 
ends per inch, 124; picks per inch, 56; 
warp counts, 23s, right twist; filling 
counts, 24s, right twist; weight, 31 
yards per pound; weave, 5-end warp 
satin. (Fig. 1.) 



Fig. 1. 



DDDDB 
OBDOC] 
DDDBD 
■ DODO 
DQBOD 

Fig. 2. 



Each selvage consists of 24 ends 
working as 12 and weaves 2 picks in a 
shed. The cloth has been reeded 5 
ends per dent in the body of the cloth 
and 6 ends per dent in the selvages. 
CALCULATIONS. 

27 inches x 124 sley equals 3,348 
ends, plus 8 extras for selvages (there 
being 1 end per dent more than in the 
ground) equals 3,356, total ends. 



the ends drawn one through each hed- 
dle. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing of galatea is of simple 
character. It consists in bleaching, if 
for white, and printing, if for colored, 
patterns. A light starch, just enough 
to make the fabric handle firm, is 
used. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Galatea is made up of yarns the av- 
erage count of which is about 25s. 
For this article we will consider the 
warp to be 23s and the filling yarn 24s, 
both right twist. The cotton used for 
this fabric would be upland cotton of 
a medium grade and 1-inch staple. If 
large quantities of this cloth are re- 
quired, the mixing should be done by 
machines. Any of the methods pre 
viously described may be used, the ob- 
ject being to have a dry, fluffy cotton 
fed to the openers. If only a small mix- 
ing is going to be used, the mixing 
may be done by hand, but when mixed 
/n this manner 



3,356 (ends) x 105 (length) 
23 (counts) x 840 



30 (width in reed) x 56 (pks.) x 100 (length) 



= 18.24 lbs. warp in 100 yards of cloth. 



24 (counts) x 840 

18.24 lbs. warp. 
8.S3 lbs. filling. 



8.33 lbs. filling. 



26.57 lbs., weight of 100 yard cut. 
100 -*- 26.57 = 3.76 yards per pound. 

When weighing a small sample of 
the cloth under consideration 5| 
square inches was found to weigh 10.7 
grains. 

5% (sq. inches) x 7,000 (grs.) 
10.7 (weight) x 27" (cloth width) x 36 (inches per yard) 



THE MIXING 
should be allowed to stand longer be- 
fore using, so that it will become thor- 
oughly dry and not have to be fed 

3.78 yards per pound. 



LOOM REQUIRED. 

Galatea can be produced most eco- 
nomically on single box cam looms in 
which an auxiliary motion is used fcr 
actuating the selvage yarns. 

On account of the large number of 
ends per inch, and the fact that four 
out of every five ends are required to 
be on the face every pick, the cloth is 
woven face down in the loom and the 
harnesses actuated as shown in Fig. 2. 
The drawing-in draft is straight, with 



green. When cotton is fed green to 
the pickers there is more likelihood of 
a fire at these machines. The cotton 
is next put through three processes of 
pickers and an opener. At the breaker 
picker there are generally two sets of 
cages and two beaters. The first beater 
that the cotton comes in contact with 
has three blades and its speed is 1,100 
revolutions per minute. The front 
beater of this machine has two blades 
and its speed is 1,425 revolutions per 



722 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



minute. The total weight of the lap 
at this machine is about 40 pounds, al- 
though in a great many mills the laps 
at the front of the breaker and inter- 
mediate pickers are allowed to become 
as large as can be handled before doff- 
ing them. The weight per yard is 16 
ounces. The laps from the breaker 
are put up and doubled four into one 
at the intermediate. The beater on this 
machine is generally of a two-bladed 
type and the speed of it 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight 
of a 40-yard lap is 37^ pounds, or a 
15-ounce lap. At the finisher picker the 
beater may be either the pin or the 
two-bladed, rigid type. If the former, 
the speed should be about 1,350 revo- 
lutions per minute, and for the rigid 
type 1,450. It will be at once seen that 
a greater number of blows will be 
struck with the pin beater, but it is 
claimed that the pins of this beater 
enter the cotton and do not strike it as 
forcibly as the blade of a rigid type 
beater. On the other hand, many 
carders object to the pin beater, espe- 
cially on the longer-staple cotton, 
claiming that it 

PUTS IN NEPS. 
For this fabric the total weight of a 
40-yard lap should be 36^4= pounds. A 
variation of one-half either side of 
standard should be allowed and every 
lap weighed. Look out for split laps 
and see that every part of the picker 
is working freely, that the evener mo- 
tions are in perfect order, for remem- 
ber it is on this arrangement that the 
evenness of the lap depends. At the 
card the draft should not be over 105 
The speed of the licker-in is 375 revo- 
lutions per minute. Flats (110) make 
one complete revolution every 45 min- 
utes. Use medium count wire fillet. 
Strip, grind, clean, etc., as given in 
previous articles. The production for 
this fabric should be 850 pounds per 
week of 60 hours and the weight per 
yard of sliver should be 60. This is 
then put through three processes of 
drawing frames. For this class of 
goods 

METALLIC ROLLS 
may be used to good advantage. For 
this length of staple with metallic top 
rolls spread the bottom steel rolls as 



follows: Front to second, 1| inches; 
second to third, 1% inches; third to 
back, 11 inches. If leather top rolls 
are used instead, close rolls a good 
sixteenth. The speed of the front roll 
may be anything up to 400 revolu- 
tions per minute, according to the 
amount of drawing needed. As has 
been said many times before, as this 
is really the last machine at which 
evening takes place (to any great ex- 
tent), watch to see that the stop-mo- 
tions are working properly. Also watch 
the clearers and see that the sliver is 
being coiled properly in the can, be- 
cause nothing causes more waste and 
trouble than poorly coiled sliver in 
cans. Size four times a day and allow 
a variation of two grains per yard (av- 
erage) before changing. Scour draw- 
ings frequently. The weight per yard 
of sliver at the finisher drawing is 75 
grains per yard. The doublings are 6 
into 1. At the slubber, the drawing is 
made into .45 hank roving, after which 
it is put through two processes of 

FLY FRAMES 

and made into the following hank rov- 
ing at each; first intermediate, 1.65; 
fine, 5 hank. This is taken to the spin- 
ning frame and for the warp is spun 
into 23s, with a right-handed twist. 
Otherwise than being twisted right- 
handed, the particulars are as follows: 
2-inch diameter ring, 7-inch traverse, 
9,500 revolutions per minute spindle 
speed and a twist per inch of 22.7 plus. 
The yarn is then spooled, warped and 
put through the slasher. 

The filling yarn for this fabric is 
also a right twist, otherwise the par- 
ticulars for the frame are as follows: 
1%-inch diameter ring, 6^-inch trav- 
erse, spindle speed of 7,600 revolutions 
per minute. The yarn is then condi- 
tioned. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
Following are dyeing particulars for 
100 pounds of goods: 
PINK. 
Four ounces Erika pink G. ; 10 
pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
Six ounces diamine sky blue FF.; 10 
pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



723 



. CREAM. 
Pour ounces immedial yellow D.; 2 
ounces immedial cutch G. ; 1 pound 
sulphide sodium; 2 pounds soda ash 
10 pounds salt. 

NAVY. 

Ten pounds immedial indone B.; 10 
pounds sulphide sodium; 3 pounds 
soda ash; 30 pounds salt. 

WINE. 
Six pounds brilliant Bordeaux R.; 2 
pounds sal soda; 30 pounds Glauber's. 

TAN. 

One pound immedial cutch B.; 

pound immedial yellow D. ; 3 pounds 

sulphide sodium; 30 pounds salt; 3 

pounds soda ash. 



VELOUR 



Velour is a type of filling pile fab- 
ric of fair to good quality, made on the 
weave principles explained in the ac- 
ticle dealing with velveteens. It dif- 
fers from velveteen in having pile fill- 
ing of some material other than cot- 
ton. 

Velour for dress and cloaking pur- 
poses is made with 2 or 3 ply cotton 
yarns for the warp and filling of the 
ground cloth, and mohair or luster 
worsted filling for the pile. The cloth 
widths range from about 27 inches to 
54 inches. The weights and qualities 
also vary, as will be inferred from a 
recent retail price list for 32-inch 
goods. These prices range from $2 to 
$4 per yard. 

The better qualities of dress velours 
are usually from 27 to 32 inches wide. 

Large quantities of velour fabrics are 
also used for curtain and upholstery 
purposes, the points of the fibres re 
ceiving and reflecting the light and in- 
dicating full, deep colors. The pecul- 
iar manner in which the cloth is con- 
structed makes it an excellent wearing 
fabric. In jute velours, which are used 
for upholstery purposes to a greater 
extent than anomal fibre pile velours, 
the pile yarn is of jute. 

In dress fabrics, velours are usually 
of solid color. For upholstery pur- 
poses they are of solid or various col- 



ors and patterns, the result of print- 
ing, embossing, cutting or burning. 

The word velour, or velure, is also 
given to a pad or pile fabric used by 
hatters for smoothing and giving a 
luster to the surface of hats. 

THE ANALYSIS 
of a characteristic velour fabric, 50 
inches wide, retailing for $2.25 per 
yard, indicates the following construc- 
tion data: Ends per inch, 68; picks, per 
inch, 225, including 45 ground picks 
and 180 pile picks; warp counts, 2-ply 
2's cotton; ground filling counts, 3-ply 
45s cotton; pile filling counts, 25s wor- 
sted; weight, 21.13 ounces per yard 
weave, Fig. 1. The picks are arranged 
2 ground to 8 pile. 

When analyzing- pile fabrics care 
must be taken not to omit to consider 
the structure of the cloth. If analyzed 
as an ordinary fabric the weave for the 
labric under consideration would ap- 



B3000SB83QOQffiB 

■■DDOODGDCOD 

■■cooanaacoo 
ODaaoGMQnoo 

OOQQDOMUOOn 

aaoMnnoQDDa 

GOQMOCOOOaO 
ODQCrJOOOOMQ 
DQnDDDDQOMa 

Fig". 1. 






Fig. 2. 

DEssdODEStBnnoaeiBoa 
mmDoaacaammoococca 

■ ■ODCjDOOnMnGQDnDCJ 

uvnccommcucaoaamua 

GooMDannnoDMocxia 
oaammaDauuccmuziaca 

Fig- 3. 

pear as shown in Fig. 2. 
and there would appear to 
be an equal number of ground 
as pile picks. Fig. 3 shows a 
weave that could be used if the pile 
was required to be shorter and less 
dense than with Fig. 1. Crosses in 
Figs. 1 to 3 indicate ground picks; 
■ indicate pile picks. 

Another point to consider is the 
method of ascertaining the counts of 
the 

PILE FILLING. 
Obviously a definite length cannot be 
measured with any degree of accuracy 



724 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



after it has been cut into very small 
pieces. Knowing the construction and 
weight of the fabric, and the counts 
of the ground yarns, the pile yarn 
counts may be found as follows: 

08 (ends) x 50 (width) -= 3,400 ends. 
3,400 x 105 (length) 

= 42.5 lbs. warp. 

10 (counts) x 840 

45 (picks) x 55" (width in reed) x 100 (length) 

15 x 840 

21.13 ozs. (weight per yard) x 100 (length) 



both lengths of staple are stapled in 
the usual manner, and in large mills 
are mixed by machines, while in small 
mills, or mills using a small quantity 
of these lengths of staples, the mix- 



= 19.64 lbs. of ground flllinj 



16 (ozs. per pound) 



42.5 lbs. warp. 

19.64 lbs. ground filling. 



132.06 lbs. weight of 100 yard cut. 



132.06 



62.14 lbs. ground yarn. 
— 62.14 = 69.92 lbs. pile filling. 



ISO (picks) x 55 in. (width in reed) x 100 (length) 



69.92 (lbs.) x 560 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
Velours require a two-box dobby 
loom of heavy pattern, with a special 
take-up motion on account of the large 
number of picks per inch. One beam 
only is required. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing process consists of 
cutting, singeing or gassing, scouring, 
bleaching (if for white), dyeing and 
drying. Upholstery goods are printed 
after being dried, usually by the dis- 
charge process. Embossed effects are 
almost entirely confined to solid col- 
or fabrics and are obtained by pres- 
sure under suitable heated and pre- 
pared rollers. 

For other data regarding filling pile 
fabrics the reader is referred to the 
articles on "Velveteen" and "Velvet- 
een Cutting." 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Velour is made out of two different 
lengths of staple of American peeler 
cotton and a worsted yarn. The counts 
of yarn used in the sample under de- 
scription are as follows: Warp counts, 
2-ply 20s, which is made from 1-inch 
stock, and for ground filling counts 
3-45s, which is made out of 1 3-16-inch 
stock, and for pile filling, 25s worsted 
yarns, which is equal to a 16 2-3s 
(single) cotton yarn. The cottons for 



25 + counts of pile filling. 



ing is done by hand. For both stocks 
the 

PICKING PARTICULARS 
are practically the same, and one meth- 
od will answer for both. They are put 
through three processes of pickers and 
an opener, the breaker picker, being 
known as a combination picker, hav- 
ing two sets of cages and two beaters; 
the first, or that beater coming into 
contact with the cotton first, has three 
blades and revolves at a speed of 1,- 
125 revolutions per minute, while the 
front beater is generally two-bladed, 
having a speed of 1,500 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of a lap is 
40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at the intermediate 
picker and doubled four into one. At 
this picker the beater is of a rigid, 
two-bladed type, and its speed is 1,425 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of a 42-yard lap is 38% pounds, 
or a 14% -ounce lap. At the finisher 
picker, the speed of a three-bladed, pin 
beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute, 
and of a two-bladed, rigid beater 1,450 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of a 50-yard lap is 46 pounds 
net for the 1-inch stock or a 14%- 
ounce lap and 39 pounds net or a 12%- 
ounce lap for the 1 3-16-inch stock. 

AT THE CARD 
there are several minor changes from 
one stock to the other, the principal 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



725 



ones being as follows: The distance 
from feed plate to licker-in should be 
increased so as not to injure or break 
the longer staple. For the shorter 
stock the draft should be not more 
than 100. Set feed plate to licker-in 
to 7-l,000ths gauge; flats to licker-in 
7-l,O0Oths; doffer to cylinder. 7 1,- 
OOOths doffer comb to doffer, with a 
10-l,000ths gauge, the other settings 
being the same as those used for in- 
digo prints. For the longer stock set 
feed plate to licker-in, 17-l,000ths; flats 
to cylinder, 7-l,000ths; doffer to cylin- 
der, 5-l,000ths, etc. The draft for this 
length of staple should not be le3S 
than 100 and 110 of a draft is better. 
The percentage of all waste at the 
card for 1-inch stock should not ex- 
ceed 7% per cent and for 1 3-16-inch 
staple 8% per cent. Strip, grind and 
clean as shown formerly when the 
same lengths of staple were being de- 
scribed. The weight per yard for 1- 
inch staple should be 60 grains per 
yard and for the 1 3-16-inch stock, 55 
grains per yard. The 

PRODUCTION 

for a week of 60 hours should be as 
follows: 1-inch staple, 750 pounds and 
1 3-16-inch staple, 550 pounds. The 1 3- 
16-inch stock is combed (although for 
all grades of velour the yarn is not 
combed). The general method used 
is as follows: Sliver lap 16 into 1 or 
an 8% -inch lap; weight of finished lap 
per yard, 420 grains. The sliver laps 
are doubled 6 into 1 or to a 10% -inch 
lap, the weight being 440 grains per 
yard. These laps, in turn, are put up 
at the comber and doubled eight into 
one, the weight of the finished sliver 
being 65 grains per yard. Set the 
comber as before described for this 
length of staple. For this class of 
goods 16 per cent of waste is taken 
out. Use one of the receipts for var- 
nish that have been given from time 
to time, and keep all leather rolls in 
good condition, no matter whether 
they are on sliver lap, ribbon lap, 
combers, drawing frames or slubbers 
and speeders. The sliver from the 
comber is put through two 
processes of drawing, the dou- 
bling 6 int> 1 at each process. 



The speed of the front roll depends 
upon conditions, but a fair speed is 
350 revolutions per minute. The weight 
per yard of finished sliver is 75 grains. 
The 1-inch stock is put through three 
processes of drawing, the weight of 
the sliver being 75 grains per yard. 
Size at the ribbon lap twice a day, an 
allowance of five grains per yard be> 
ing allowed from standard before 
changing. At the drawing frame size 
four times a day, a variation of two 
grains per yard being allowed. The 
drawing frame should be set for 
1 3-16-inch stock, front to second, 
1 5-16 inch; second to third, 1 7-16 
inch and third to back, 1 9-16 inch 
for leather top rolls; for metallic rolls, 
spread rollers % to \ of an inch far- 
ther apart. 

AT THE SLUBBER 

the drawing is made in .60 for both 
stocks, after which the slubber roving 
is put through two processes of speed- 
ers for 20s yarn, the hank roving at 
each process being 1.50 at first, and 4 
at second. This is spun into 20s on a 
frame with a two-inch diameter ring; 
7-inch traverse; 21.24 twist per inch, 
and spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions 
per minute, after which the yarn is 
spooled and twisted into 2-20s, then 
warped and put through a slasher. The 
slubber roving for 45s is put through 
two processes, the hank roving at each 
being 2.50 at first and 10 hank at the 
fine. This roving is spun into 45s on 
a frame with l^-inch diameter ring; 
5% -inch traverse; 25 plus twist per 
inch and a spindle speed of 8,500 rev- 
olutions per minute. The yarn is then 
twisted into 3-45s and conditioned. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

WINE. 

6 per cent brilliant diamine Bor- 
deaux R. ; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; topped with 1 per cent 
saffranine. 

NAVY BLUE. 

8 per cent immedial indogene B.; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped 
with 1 per cent brilliant green G.; 1 
per cent methyl violet B. 



726 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



OLIVE. 

6 per cent katigen olive GN.; 2 per 
cent katigen green 2 B. ; 1 per cent 
katigen brown B.; topped with 1 per 
cent auramine; 1 per cent brilliant 
green crys. 

BROWN. 

6 per cent immedial cutch G. ; 2 per 
cent immedial yellow D. ; 1 per cent 
immedial brown B.; 10 per cent sul- 
phide of soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent salt; topped with 2 per 
cent auramine; 2 per cent Bismarck 
brown. 

SLATE. 

3 per cent immedial black NN.; 4 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped 
with 4 ounces methyl violet B.; 1 
ounce brilliant green B. 

GRAY. 

1 per cent immedial black NN.; 2 
ounces immedial yellow D. ; topped 
with 2 ounces brilliant green B. ; 2 
ounces methyl violet B. 

FAWN BROWN. 

4 per cent immedial brown B.; 2 per 
cent immedial brown RR. ; 6 per cent 
sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent salt; topped with 2 per 
cent Bismarck brown R. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 

6 per cent immedial green BB. ; 2 
per cent immedial dark green B.; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped 
with 1 per cent brilliant green B. 
PEACOCK GREEN. 

4 per cent immedial new blue G.; 4 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 25 per eent salt; topped 
with 2 per cent brilliant green B. 

All these shades are dyed with the 

sulphur colors, well rinsed with water 

and dyed again at 180 degrees F., and 

well rinsed in water again and dried. 

BLACK. 

10 per cent immedial brilliant black 
G.; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; top- 
ped with 4 per cent immedial indone 
B.; 4 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
Rinsed and soaped. 



GLORIA SILK or GLORIA CLOTH 

Gloria silk or gloria cloth is a name 
applied to a fabric used extensively 
for umbrellas. This fabric is made up 
of fine organzine silk warp, and either 
cotton, worsted or mohair filling. 

The finest grades of this fabric are 
made with a fine organzine silk warp 
and fine French spun Australian wor- 
sted filling of a very high texture, 
both warp and filling, while in the 
cheaper grades cotton is substituted 
for worsted. 

The fabric made with silk and wor- 
sted is oftentimes used as a dress fab- 
ric, with a slight change in texture; 
the counts of the materials may be a 
little finer and the ends and picks per 
inch are less than in the umbrella fab- 
rics. 

The fabric used as dress goods is 
commonly known to the trade as lans- 
downe. This fabric, by reason of the 
texture, is softer to the touch than 
the gloria cloth. 

Both fabrics are made in the gray, 
then dyed in the piece. The fabric 
used for umbrellas is usually dyed 
black and the fabric intended for a 
dress is dyed in various shades of 
solid colors, such as lavender, pink, 
blue, sometimes finished in pure white 
or bleached and sometimes the goods 
are dyed black, if the trade desires it. 

A distinguishing feature of these 
fabrics in conjunction with the mate- 



BOBBDB 
OBBDSa 
Mull J 

■OHDB 

Fig. L 

DDDDDB 
DDDDBO 
DOQBDD 
DDBDDD 
DBDDOD 

Baooaa 
Fig. 2. 



rials used is the weave, which is a 
three -end twill — . , and is woven in 
a width of about 45 inches in. reed. 

In the best grades of the umbrella 
fabric the construction is of such a 
high texture that the fabric need not 
be waterproofed as are some fabrics 
used as a protection against the ele- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



727 



ments, as, for instance, raincloth, 
which is rainproofed during the finish- 
ing process. The texture of the gloria 
cloth is sufficiently compact to be im- 
pervious to the rain. 

ANALYSIS 
follows of fabrics used for umbrellas 
and also fabrics used for dress goods. 

First, Gloria cloth: width of warp 
in reed, 45 inches; width of fabric 
finished, 40-41 inches; ends per inch in 
reed, 55 x 3, equals 165; ends per inch 
finished fabric, 180; warp, 1% dram 
organzine silk. 

Take-up during weaving, 8 per cent. 

Practically no shrinkage in cloth in 
length during finishing. 

Filling, 160 picks per inch; l-70s 
French spun Australian worsted. 

Second: Lansdowne: width in reed, 
45 inches; width of fabric finished, 
40-41; ends per inch in reed, 150 — 50 x 
3 reed; ends per inch in finished fab- 
ric, 168; warp, l 1 ^ dram organzine 
silk. 

Filling, 150 picks; l-90s French 
spun Australian worsted. 

These fabrics are woven on harness 
looms; the warp is drawn straight on 
six harnesses, through French string 
heddles. This particular heddle is al- 
most indispensable in silk weaving. 

Fig. 1, two repeats of weave. 

Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Gloria cloth is made up from many 
different raw stocks, and may be either 
composed of worsted, silk, mohair or 
cotton yarns or a combination of any 
two. Gloria is sometimes called um- 
brella cloth on account of its extensive 
use for covering this article, and when 
used for this purpose it is generally 
constructed from cotton yarns. The 
counts of the yarn used vary from 40s 
to 60s, but a good average would be 
45s for both warp and filling. The raw 
stock used for the better cloth is Egyp- 
tian cotton of lf-inch staple, but it 
is the general rule nowadays to mix 
Allen 1%-inch staple cotton with the 
Egyptian, so as to cheapen the cloth, 
the proportion of American cotton used 
varying from one -sixth to one-half, 
the blending being generally done at 



the breaker drawing frame. The cot- 
tons should be mixed and up to the 
drawing frame run separately. They 
should be mixed in the usual manner; 
if a bale breaker is used better re- 
sults will be obtained and the mix- 
ings will not have to stand as long 
to dry out as when hand mixings are 
made. The cotton is put through an 
opener and three processes of pickers. 
On the opener the stripping roll should 
be set about one-half an inch from the 
lifting roll and 

THE HOPPER 

should always be kept three-quarters 
full of cotton. The processes of pick- 
ers used may be three, as stated be- 
fore, or two, the breaker being what is 
known as a combination picker, that 
is, having two beaters and two sets of 
cages. For various reasons the latter 
method is considered the better of the 
two. In this article we will consider 
the processes to be three separate 
pickers, although the speeds of the 
beaters given may be used if two proc- 
esses of pickers are used. The speed 
of the breaker beater is 1,350 for a 
two-bladed beater and 900 revolutions 
per minute for a three -bladed beater. 
The total weight of a lap at the front 
would be about 40 pounds, or a 16- 
ounce lap. These are doubled 5 into 
1 at the intermediate picker. The 
speed of the beater of this picker is 1,- 
300 revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of a lap at this machine is 37% 
pounds, or a 15% -ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this 
beater is 1,200 revolutions per minute, 
and the weight of a lap is 31% pounds, 
or a 12%-ounce lap. 

THE SPEEDS 
of the beater given above are for the 
Egyptian stock. The Allen seed would 
require a higher speed of the beater 
to get the dirt out, the increase be- 
ing about 100 revolutions per minute 
at each process. Every lap should be 
weighed as it is taken from the finish- 
er picker, a variation of one-half a 
pound from the standard weight being 
allowed. The laps are then put up at 
the card and given a draft of 110. The 
speed of the flats is one complete rev- 



728 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



olution every 40 minutes; set and 
grind as usual. The production should 
be about 500 pounds a week of 60 
bours, the -weight of the sliver being 
50 grains per yard. Strip cards three 
times a day for a 10%-hour day. The 
card sliver is next put through a sliv- 
er lap machine, the doublings for an 
8%-inch lap being 16 into 1. The 
weight of a yard of this lap at the 
front is 280 grains. These are put up 
at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 
6 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap 
at the front of this machine is 275 
grains per yard. The spread of the 
rolls at the ribbon lap for this staple 
is, front to second, 1| inches; second 
to third, 11 inches; third to back, 11 
inches. These laps are put up at the 
comber and doubled either 6 or 8 into 
1, according to the number of heads 
the comber contains. For this article 
we will assume 6. The speed is 90 
nips per minute, the weight of sliver 
delivered being 40 grains per yard. 
The percentage of waste taken out is 
16. If larger laps than 81 inches are 
used the weight of the lap, etc., will 
be proportionately heavier. Set and 
time as given in a previous article. 
At the drawing frame the doubling at 
each of the two processes used is 6 
into 1. It is at this machine that the 
blending is done, three ends of Amer- 
ican cotton being run in with three 
ends of Egyptian. 

THE WEIGHT 
of the drawing at the front should be 
50 grains per yard. The rolls should 
be set as follows: front to second, 1V 2 
inches; second to third, 11 inches, and 
third to back, 11 inches. Size four 
times a day and allow a variation of 
two grains per yard either side of 
standard before changing. Varnish 
and change leather top rolls frequent- 
ly. At the slubber the sliver is made 
into .70 hank roving and is then put 
through three processes of fly frames, 
the hank roving at each process being 
as follows: First intermediate, 1.40 
hank; second intermediate, 3.40 hank, 
and fine frame, 9.40 hank. The twist 
per inch put into the roving is very 
important, and for making these yarns 
the following twists are used at the 
slubber: 73 turns per inch; first inter- 



mediate, 1.01 per inch; second inter- 
mediate, 1.85 per inch, and fine, 3.7 
per inch. Lay close and size fine 
frames once a day, and slubbers once 
a week. 

BETTER RESULTS 

are obtained if either self-weighted 
rolls are used on the fine frames or if 
not using self-weighted rolls take 
weight off of second roll and take one 
tooth of draft out between second and 
third rolls. Watch the leather rolls 
to see that they are in perfect condi- 
tion. The yarn is taken to the mule 
room and spun with a soft twist tot 
both warp and filling; the warp yarn 
is then run on to spools, after which it 
is warped and slashed and is then 
ready for the beam. Particular care 
has to be taken with this fabric to 
keep it free from neps on account of 
their showing up so plainly when made 
up on the umbrella, and it is a good 
plan to watch the beaters, flats and 
settings at the card, percentage and 
settings at the comber. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Gloria cloth is made for the umbrel- 
la trade. When composed of silk and 
wool it is dyed by special colors, the 
colors dyeing wool and silk in one 
bath. For cheap imitation gloria cloths 
of cotton and wool, a union black is 
dyed: 5 per cent union black B. ; 20 
per cent Glauber's salt. Boil forty 
minutes, and run without steam for 
forty minutes longer. For 

ALL COTTON CHEAP GLORIAS, 

which are not glorias at all, as the 
only real gloria cloth is made from 
silk and wool, the aniline salt black 
is dyed; the goods are passed through 
a solution of aniline salt, dyed and 
aged and developed and washed. 



CANVAS 



Canvas is a term applied to heavy, 
plain weave cloths made with coarse, 
ply cotton yarns. It does not refer 
to any particular grade or weight of 
cloth. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



729 



Canvas cloth is used for mail bags, 
coverings for boats, in the manufac- 
ture of tents, etc. The 

ANALYSIS 

of a heavy characteristic canvas fab- 
ric indicates the following construc- 
tion data: ends per inch, 31; picks 
per inch, 24; warp counts, 6-14s; filling 
counts, 9-14s; cloth width, 24 inches; 
reed width, 25*4 inches; weight, .72 
(72-100) yard per pound; plain weave. 
A characteristic feature of heavy, plain 
cotton fabrics is seen in this cloth in 
that the warp has contracted in length 
about 25 per cent. Goods of this char- 
acter would be woven on heavy cam 
looms of the type used for weaving 
duck. 

Fig. 1 is a weave of the mock leno 
type, sometimes termed a canvas 
weave. Cloth made with this weave 

>maamnmmn 

aoaamnum 

Daaamuum 
> Bnaaaaaa 
> gbbubocib 

BBBBanna 

BBBBDDna 
e-CWBDBQCMi 

A A A A 

Fig. L 

is characterized by small perforations, 
caused by some of the ends and picks, 
indicated by the arrows, cutting or op- 
posing each other, while other ends 
and picks in the same weave come 
closely together. This cloth is used 
as a base or ground for embroidery 
work, and the perforations noted have 
a distinctive value as an aid in indi- 
cating readily where to insert the 
needle. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Canvas is made up in a great many 
grades, but usually the counts of the 
yarns do not vary as much for the dif- 
ferent grades as for different grades of 
finer fabrics. The sample of canvas 
taken for description is made up of 
6-14s warp and 9-14s filling This count 
of yarn (considering the fabric) would 
be made up from 15-16 to 1 1-16 inch 
staple, of a medium grade, and for 
this grade of fabric the cotton would 
not be combed. If large mixings are 
required, i. e., over 60 bales a day, a 



bale breaker should be used or some 
arrangement made whereby the mixing 
can be done by machines; if a smaller 
amount of cotton is required, then a 
hand mixing will answer. It will be 
found a great advantage to use ma- 
chinery for mixing; any of the up-to- 
date machines and systems are all 
right. The cotton is next put through 
an opener and three processes of pick- 
ers. The pin roll, or, as it is sometimes 
called, the evener roll, should be set 
about one-half an inch from the lift- 
ing apron. The breaker picker is what 
is known as a combination picker, hav- 
ing two sets of beaters and two sets of 
cages. 

THE BEATER 

that first receives the cotton is general- 
ly of a three-bladed type and its speed 
is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The 
front beater of this same machine has 
two blades, and its speed is 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of a lap at the front end of this ma- 
chine is 40 to 50 pounds, according to 
length of lap run. Some overseers do 
not have a full lap knock -off on either 
the breaker or the intermediate picker, 
but the attendant doffs this lap at will. 
These breaker laps are doubled four 
into one at the intermediate picker. 
This picker is equipped with an even- 
er motion and has a two-bladed beater, 
the speed of which is 1,400 revolutions 
per minute. The weight of a full lap 
is about 40 pounds, but generally this 
picker has no full lap knock-off, so 
the laps would weigh more or less 
for a full lap, but just the same per 
yard. Four of these laps should be dou- 
bled into one at the finisher picker. 
This is equipped with a pin beater, the 
speed of which is 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of a 46-yard 
lap is 48 ^ pounds gross, or 46 pounds 
net, or a 12 -ounce lap. Every lap 
should be weighed on this kind of 
stock, for it is generally a very sensi- 
tive cotton to weather conditions. 
Watch the evener motions to see that 
they are working properly and are 
clean. Run good sliver waste up in the 
usual manner. At the cards the draft 
should not exceed 100 and the flats 
should make one complete revolution 
every 40 minutes; set and grind as in- 



730 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



structions in article on indigo prints. 
Strip out every three hours or three 
times (both cylinder and doffer) a day 
for a 10% -hour day. If humidifiers are 
run, 

THE HUMIDITY 
should be about 55 degees. The pro- 
duction of a card for a week of 60 
hours should be 650 to 750 pounds, the 
weight of the sliver being 55 grains 
per yard. The card sliver is next run 
through either two or three processes 
of drawing as required for the quality 
of the canvas. In the sample three 
processes are used, six ends up at each 
process. The spread of the rolls for 
1-inch stock with leather top rolls is 
as follows: front to second, 1| inches; 
second to third, 1 3-16 inches; third to 
back, 1% inches. For metallic top rolls 
spread of rolls 1 inch wider all through. 
Watch all stop-motions on this ma- 
chine, for practically the last doubling 
is done at this machine, so that it is 
very important to see that the stop- 
motions are in good order. Varnish 
rolls as often as possible, and see that 
clearers are properly placed and pick- 
ed. The sliver should be sized four 
times a day and should weigh 75 
grains per yard. If humidifiers are 
used over these machines, they should 
give a mean temperature of 60 to 65 
degrees. The drawing sliver is run 
through the slubber, and made into 
40 hank roving. The settings for rolls 
at this machine are as follows: front 
to second, 1 1-16 inches, and second to 
back, 1% inches. Clean steel rotls of 
all laps, etc. The slubber roving is 
then put through two processes of fly 
frames, at the first intermediate being 
made into 1 hank roving and at the 
second, 3 hank roving. The roving on 
the finer frame should be sized once a 
day, the roll settings used for both 
being front to second, 1 1-16 inches and 



second to back, l 1 /^ inches; the doub- 
lings at each being 2 into 1. 

AT THE SPINNING ROOM 

the roving is spun into 14s on a warp 
frame with a 3-inch gauge of frame, 7- 
inch traverse, 2|-inch diameter ring, 
17.77 twist per inch and a spindle speed 
of 9,000 revolutions per minute. This 
is then doubled into 6-14s or 6-ply 14s, 
after which it is put through a slasher 
and run on a beam. 

The 14s filling yarn is made on a 
l^-inch diameter ring, 6% -inch trav- 
erse, a 12.16 twist per inch and a spin- 
dle speed of 6,800 -evolutions per min- 
ute. This yarn is then twisted into 9- 
ply 14s or 9-14s, after which it is condi- 
tioned, when it is ready to be woven. 



BACK-CLOTH 

Back-cloth is a reinforcing cloth 
used in calico printing to support a 
fabric being printed. Any plain cloth 
of suitable width may be used as a 
back-cloth, therefore the term does 
not refer to any particular width, 
weight or quality of fabric. 

The back-cloth passes through the 
printing machine between the ma- 
chine and the cloth to be printed. 
Both cloths, the back and the printed, 
emerge from the printing machine to- 
gether. The back-cloth is immediate- 
ly folded, whereas the printed cloth 
goes through other machines to "set" 
the color. The color on the back 
cloth, not being "set," is easily washed 
out. In a public cloth finishing es- 
tablishment, the back-cloth is usually 
bleached, after serving its purpose at 
the printing machine, and finished as 
required. The back-cloth is usually 
wider than the cloth it is intended to 
support, and the color touches it only 
lightly on the outer portions. 



Kppmblx. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Crash is generally composed of 
yarns varying from 14s to 20s, both 
warp and filling having the same 
count of yarn. This class of fabric is 
made from cotton whose staple varies 
from 1 to 1 1-16 inches. For this ar- 
ticle we will consider the counts of 
the yarn to be 16s and the staple of 
the cotton 1 1-16 inches in length. If 
large- lots of this class of goods are to 
be handled, say over 35,000 pounds 
per week, preparing machines should 
be used, which are nothing more or 
less than several (from 3 to 7, accord- 
ing to capacity of mill) hoppers or 
openers in a row delivering the cotton 
onto an endless apron which carries it 
to and drops it into a line of trunking. 

The cotton is conveyed to the mixing 
bins through this trunking, the mo- 
tive power being powerful fans. This 
allows the cotton, when it reaches the 
bins, to be in a fluffy, dry state. This 
cotton is next fed to the openers and 
is passed through three processes of 
picking. At the 

BREAKER PICKER 
the cotton passes through first a 3- 
bladed, rigid type of beater, which has 
a speed of 1,100 revolutions per min- 
ute, and then a 2-bladed beater, the 
speed of which is 1,375 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of a lap 
is 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. At the 
intermediate picker the speed of the 
2-bladed beater is 1,300 revolutions per 
minute, and the weight of the lap is 
38 pounds, or a 13-ounce lap. At the 
finisher picker there is a pin beater 
(three arms) the speed of which is 
1,350 revolutions per minute. The to- 
tal weight of a 52-yard lap is 46 
pounds net, or a 14i-ounce lap. Al- 
low one-half pound variation either 
side of standard weight. At the card, 
set the same as for indigo prints. The 
top flats should make one complete 
revolution every 45 minutes. The sliv- 



er should weigh 60 grains per yard, 
and the production should be 775 to 
825 pounds per week of 60 hours. 
Watch the setting points to see that 
all cards are set as nearly as possible 
alike. Strip three times a day and 
watch help to see that they strip ev- 
ery card. Grind as before stated. The 
sliver is next put through three proc- 
esses of drawing frames. The speed of 
the front roll at the finisher for this 
stock should be 350 to 400 revolutions 
per minute, and the weight per yar 1 
of lap 75 grains. Watch the knock off 
motions to see that they are all in 
proper working condition. For this 
class of work metallic top rolls may 
be used to excellent advantage. Size 
four times a day. 

THE DRAWING SLIVER 

is put through the slubber and made 
into .46 hank roving and from here 
put through two processes of fly 
frames, at the first intermediate be- 
ing made into 1.10 hank, and at the 
second intermediate, or in this case 
the fine frame, 3.25 hank. Keep the 
top rolls in good condition and the 
bottom steel rolls set properly. This 
roving is taken to the spinning frame 
and spun into 16s warp yarn on a 
frame with 2% -inch gauge of frame, 
2-inch diameter ring, 7-inch traverse 
and spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions 
per minute; twist per inch, 19. This 
yarn is then spooled, warped and put 
through the slasher, where it is heav- 
ily sized. 

The 3-hank roving for the filling 
yarn is spun into 16s filling on a frame 
with 1%-inch diameter ring, 6% -inch 
traverse, 13 twist per inch and spindle 
speed of 7,000 revolutions per minute. 
After leaving the spinning frame, the 
yarn is conditioned. 



HAMMOCK CLOTHS 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 
Hammock cloth is generally made in 
mills making low counts of yarn, or in 



732 



APPENDIX 



mills or small plants which make a 
specialty of this one grade of goods. 
The counts as well as the staple of 
the cotton differ according to the qual- 
ity of the fabric to be made. There 
is also another factor which enters in- 
to the manufacture of this class of 
fabric and that is its strength. 
Strength in yarn may be obtained by 
several different methods, either dou- 
bling and twisting two or more yarns 
together or using a longer staple, or 
a combination of both, always consid- 
ering that machines through the mill 
are properly adjusted and set. An- 
other method to obtain strength is 
to twist, tighten, or in other words put 
in more twist per inch. For the sam- 
ple of hammock cloth we will suppose 
it to be made up of 3-10s warp and fill- 
ing, and we will assume the staple of 
the cotton to be % inch in length, 
straight cotton being used in the mix- 
ing. In the cheaper grades of this 
cloth comber and card stripping waste 
is put into the mixings in certain pro- 
portions. The cotton would be mixed 
by hand and 

TWO PROCESSES 

of picking used. The cotton should be 
allowed to stand as long as possible to 
dry out, so as to be more easily work- 
ed, and it also lessens the liability of 
fires in the picker. The breaker pick- 
er should be a combination picker 
with two sets of screens and two beat- 
ers. The back beater has three blades 
and a speed of 1,000 revolutions per 
minute. The forward beater has two 
blades and a speed of 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. If the lap measures 
40 yards, the weight should be 40 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap. Generally, 
however, the lap is allowed to run as 
large as possible before being doffed. 
These laps are doubled 4 into 1, and 
come under the action of a two-blad- 
ed, rigid beater, the speed of which 
should be about 1,375 revolutions per 
minute. The main points are to look 
out for fires, keep lappers very near 
full, watch the eveners and piano mo- 
tions and keep all parts in good work- 
ing order. The total weight of a lay 
at the finisher, for a 40-yard lap should 
be 37 pounds, or a 14^-ounce lap. 



Weigh every lap and allow a variation 
of three-quarters of a pound either 
side of standard. These laps are then 
put up at the card, which is fitted 
with coarse wire fillet. 

THE DRAFT 

should not be more than 90, speed of 
cylinder 165 and the licker-in speed 
350 revolutions per minute. Flats make 
one revolution every 50 minutes (110 
flats). Strip cylinders three times~"a 
day and doffer two times. The weight 
of > the sliver should be 65 grains per 
yard and the production not less than 
950 pounds for a week of 60 hours. 
The cotton is next put through two 
processes of drawing frames, the 
doublings being 8 into 1 at the break- 
er and 6 into 1 at the finisher. The 
weight per yard at the finisher draw- 
ing should be 80 grains; size three 
times a day. Metallic rolls may be 
used to good advantage for this class 
of work. Watch all the knock-off and 
stop-motions at this machine and also 
look out for cut drawing. The roll set- 
ting for metallic rolls for seven- 
eighths-inch stock is, front to second, 
1J inches, second to third, 1% inches, 
and third to back, \y 2 inches. In a 
great many mills the sliver at the 
drawing frame is sized only twice a 
day. The cans of drawing are put 
up to and run through the slubber, 
which makes it into .60 hank roving, 
which is afterward put through one 
process of fly frames and made into 
two hank roving. Size this class of 
roving once a day at the fine frame. 
Look out to see that the hank clock 
cannot be moved and hanks made. It 
is next taken to the spinning room 
and made into 10s for warp on a 
frame with 3-inch gauge of frame, 2*4- 
inch diameter ring, 7-inch traverse 
and spindle speed of 8,600 revolutions 
per minute, after which it is twisted 
into 3-ply 10s at twister, and then 
spooled, warped and put through the 
slasher. For the filling yarn the two- 
hank roving is spun on a filling frame 
with a l|-inch diameter ring, 7-inch 
traverse and spindle speed of 6,400 
revolutions per minute, after which it 
is twisted into 3-ply 10s. 



APPENDIX 



733 



MADRAS 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Madras is made up of various 
counts of yarn according to the qual- 
ity wanted, and in the finer grades of 
this fabric, silk is used for the stripes. 
Egyptian or a fine Sea Island cotton 
is generally used in the finer qualities. 
In this article we will consider the 
filling yarn to he made up of 80s Egyp- 
tian cotton with a staple of 1% inches. 
Egyptian cotton, generally speaking, is 
more easily worked than American 
cotton, and for this reason higher 
speeds are used than when the same 
counts of yarn are made from Amer- 
ican cotton. The cotton is generally 
mixed by hand, after which it is put 
through three processes of pickers. At 
the breaker picker the speed of the 
three-bladed beater is 1,050 revolU' 
tions per minute. The total weight of 
the lap at the front of this machine is 
40 pounds, or an 18-ounce lap. At the 
intermediate picker the speed of a 
two-bladed beater is 1,450 revolutions 
per minute, while the total weight is 
38 pounds, or a 12-ounce lap. These 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
run through a two-bladed, rigid beat- 
er, the speed of which is 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight or 
a 50-yard lap is 37% pounds, or a 12%- 
ounce lap. Allow the usual amount of 
variation from standard weight of lap, 
and follow instructions for the picker 
room for high-grade and fine yarns. 
The cotton is next passed to the card. 

THE DRAFT 

of this card should not be less than 
110. The top flats should make one 
complete revolution every 30 minutes. 
The speed of the licker-in should be 
about 350. The weight of the sliver is 
50 grains and the production for this 
class of goods is 475 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. Strip, grind, etc., the same 
as when Sea Island cotton is used. In 
mills that are especially equipped for 
fine counts of yarn the wire on the 
card will be fine. After leaving the 
card, the full cans are put up to the 
sliver lap machine. In the general 



type used the machine has 16 ends 
doubled into 1 at the front. This lap 
weighs about 295 grains per yard 
These laps are put up at the ribbon 
lap machine and doubled six into 1. 
The weight per yard of lap at this ma- 
chine is 275. This is for a six-head 
comber. The comber is the next ma- 
chine and at this machine the laps are 
doubled 6 into 1. The settings of this 
machine should be the same as when 
Sea Island cotton of the same length 
is used. The weight per yard of the 
combed sliver is 40 grains, and the 
speed of the comber 90 nips per min- 
ute. Several recipes for varnish for 
the leather-covered top rolls have 
been previously given and the follow- 
ing 

RECIPE 

will be found to be an excellent addi- 
tion to those already given: Eight 
ounces of plate glue, 8 ounces of 
ground gelatine, 12 ounces of burnt si- 
enna, one ounce of oil origanum, three 
pints acetic acid, one pint of water. 
The ribbon laps should be sized twice 
a day and a variation of five grains 
per yard either side of the standard 
weight allowed before changing. The 
combed sliver is next put through two 
processes of drawing frames, the 
weight per yard of a yard of finished 
drawing being 60 grains. The dou- 
blings at these machines are 6 into 1. 
Size the finishers four times daily and 
allow two grains per yard before 
changing. The cotton is next put 
through the slubber and made into .60 
hank roving. This is then put through 
three processes of fly frames, at the 
first intermediate being made into 1.50 
hank roving, at the second interme- 
diate 4.50 and at the fine frame 16 
hank. Egyptian cotton requires an ex- 
tra tooth of twist as compared with 
Sea Island cotton of the same length 
of staple and hank roving. The mid- 
dle top rolls on the fine or jack frame 
should not be dead weighted. This 
roving is taken to the spinning room 
and made into 80s yarn (filling) on a 
frame with a 114-inch diameter ring, 
5-inch traverse, 29.07 twist per inch 
and spindle speed of 7,400. This yarn 
is then taken and conditioned. 



734 



APPENDIX 



GINGHAMS 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that make up ginghams 
(common) vary from 26s to 40s for 
both warp and filling. For the sample 
of gingham under description we will 
consider the yarns to be No. 40s for 
both warp and filling. This yarn 
would be made from a medium grade 
of peeler cotton of about 1 3-16-inch 
staple. The cotton, after being put 
through a bale breaker or an opener 
known as a preparer, is put through 
three processes of pickers at the 
breaker picker. The speed of the 
three-bladed beater should be 1,150 
revolutions per minute, and of the 
two-bladed beater of the same ma- 
chine, 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap should be 
40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. At the 
intermediate the speed of the beater 
should be 1,400 for a rigid, two-bladed 
beater. The total weight of lap should 
be 38 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. The 
finisher picker should be equipped 
with a pin beater, the speed of which 
should be 1,425 revolutions per min- 
ute. The weight of a full lap should 
be 39 pounds or a 14-ounce lap. 

At the card use the same settings, 
etc., as given for indigo prints. The 
flats should make one complete revo- 
lution every 50 to 55 minutes. Speed 
of doffer should be 350 revolutions per 
minute. 

THE WEIGHT 

of the sliver should be 60 grains per 
yard, and the production 800 pounds 
for a week of 60 hours. The sliver is 
next put through three processes of 
drawing frames, the speed of the fin- 
isher drawing being 400 revolutions 
per minute. Watch the settings, and 
size at this place four times a day, a 
variation of two grains either side of 
standard weight being allowed. 

The weight of the sliver at the fin- 
isher drawing should be 70 grains per 
yard. Either metallic or leather-cov- 
ered top rolls may be used to good ad- 
vantage on this stock. The drawing 
sliver is next put through the slubber 
and made into .60 hank roving. This 



is put through two processes of fly 
frames and made into 2 hank roving 
at the first intermediate and 8 hank 
at the second. Watch the tension and 
waste, and be especially careful of mix- 
ups. Size the fine roving at least once 
a day. The roving is taken to the 
spinning room and made into 40s on a 
warp frame with a 1%-inch ring, 6%- 
inch traverse, 28.46 twist per inch and 
a spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions 
per minute. The yarn is then spooled 
and warped, after which it is run 
through the slasher. A good size is as 
follows: water, 100 gallons; potato 
starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 
pounds; white soap, 1% pounds. 

The 8 hank roving for filling yarn 
is made on a frame with l|-inch di- 
ameter ring, 5%-inch traverse, 23.72 
twist per inch and a spindle speed of 
8,8^0 revolutions per minute. This 
yarn is then conditioned. 



SCRIM 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Scrim is made of cotton counts of 
yarn from 20s to 40s. For this article 
we will consider the cotton to be 1J- 
inch staple peeler of a medium of 32s 
count. This class of goods is made in 
mills of the first division, as given in 
a previous article. Large mixings 
should be made by hand and the cot- 
ton is -then put through an opener 
and three processes of pickers. The 
breaker picker has two sets of cages 
and two beaters, the back beater hav- 
ing three blades and making 1,050 rev- 
olutions per minute. The front beater 
has two blades and makes 1,300 revo- 
lutions per minute. The total weight 
of a 40-yard lap at this machine is 40 
pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. The speed 
of the beater of the intermediate beat- 
er (two-bladed) should be 1,400 revo- 
lutions per minute, and the total 
weight of the lap is 37% pounds, or a 
12 -ounce lap. At the finisher the lap 
should weigh 39 pounds, or a 14%- 
ounce lap, while the speed of the beat- 
er (of a pin type) should be 1,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. Every lap should 
be weighed and a variation of half a 



APPENDIX 



735 



pound either side of standard weight 
allowed to pass, all others being put 
back to be run over again. 

THE CARD CLOTHING 
should be of a medium count wire, the 
wire for doffer and top flats being two 
points finer than the cylinder. The 
draft of card should be about 100 and 
the sliver should weigh 65 grains per 
yard. The production should be 750 
pounds for a week of 60 hours. For 
other particulars for card follow those 
given for indigo prints. The cotton is 
next put through the sliver lap ma- 
chine and doubled 16 into 1, the lap 
weighing 320 grains per yard. These 
laps are put up at the ribbon lap and 
doubled 6 into 1, the weight per yard 
being 440 grains for a lap 10 y 2 inches 
in width. These laps are put up to an 
eight-head comber and made into a 
65-grain sliver, taking out 17 y 2 per 
cent of waste. For roller varnish and 
other particulars about comber, see 
article on madras. The comber sliver 
is put through two processes of draw- 
ing frames, the doublings being 6 into 
1 at each process. The weight per 
yard of the finished drawing is 75 
grains. The same roller varnish may 
be used on the drawing frames as at 
the comber. Size four times a day and 
look out for the knock-off motions to 
see that they are in proper working 
order. The sliver is next put through 
the slubber and made into .60 hank 
roving. This is then put through two 
processes of fly frames or speeders, 
the hank roving at each being as fol- 
lows: First intermediate 2 hank, and 
fine 6% hank. Keep the leather top 
rolls in good condition and watch to 
stop double, single and bunches. 

THE ROVING 
is then taken to the spinning room 
and spun into 32s on a warp frame 
with a 11-inch diameter ring, 6%-inch 
traverse, 26.87 twist per inch and. 
spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then spooled, 
warped and run through the slasher, 
where it is put through a special size. 
The roving for the filling is spun 
into 32s on a frame with a 1%-inch di- 
ameter ring, 6-inch traverse, 21.21 
twist per inch and a spindle speed of 



8,800 revolutions per minute. This 
yarn is conditioned. 

Some of the white cloths, such as 
ducks, pique, etc., which in most sea- 
sons are always white, may be dyed to 
follow a freak of fashion. 
CREAM. 

For 100 pounds goods, two ounces 
immedial yellow D. ; 2 ounces imme- 
dial cutch B.; 1 pound sulphite sodi- 
um; 20 pounds salt; y 2 pound soda 
ash. 

MAUVE. 

Two ounces diamine violet N.; 10 
pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda. 
ECRU. 

One-half pound immedial cutch G.; 
4 ounces immedial yellow D. ; 2 pounds 
sulphide sodium; 10 pounds salt; 1 
pound soda ash. 

SKY BLUE. 

One pound immedial indone B.; 2 
pounds sulphide sodium; 2 pounds 
soda ash; 10 pounds salt. 
LIGHT SLATE. 

One and one-half pounds immedial 
black NRT.; 3 pounds sulphide sodi- 
um; 20 pounds salt; 2 pounds soda 
ash. 



PIQUE 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for pique vary according 
to the quality wanted. A good quality 
and average grade of pique may be 
made from 30s yarns of U-inch peel- 
er cotton (carded). After being put 
through a bale breaker the cotton if 
put through three processes of pickers, 
the speed of the beater at each process 
being as follows: 1,500 revolutions per 
minute (two-bladed beater) for the 
breaker picker, 1,400 for the interme- 
diate picker (two blades), and 1,375 to 
1,450 for the finisher picker, according 
to the grade of cotton used. The to- 
tal weight of a finished lap should be 
35 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. At the 
card the draft should not be less than 
100 or more than 110. The flats (110) 
make one revolution every 37 minutes. 
Strip three times a day. The weight 
of sliver should be 60 grains per yard; 



736 



INDEX 



production, 750 pounds for a week of 
60 hours. 

The card sliver should be put 
through three processes of draw- 
ing frames. These should he 
equipped with leather-covered top 
rolls, the speed of the front roll of the 
finisher drawing being 350 to 400 rev- 
olutions per minute, according to pro- 
duction required. The weight of the 
sliver from this frame should be 75 
grains per yard. 

The sliver is put through the slub- 
ber and made into .50 hank roving. 
For 9s filling yarn the slubber roving 
is put through one process of fly 
frames and is made into 2 hank rov- 
ing. If a large quantity of pique is be- 
ing made the yarn for 9s may be made 
of a much lower grade and staple of 
cotton, but otherwise it is better to 
construct the yarn by the method 
given. 



The slubber roving for 30s yarn is 
put through two processes of fly 
frames, at the first intermediate be- 
ing made into 2 hank and at the sec- 
ond being made into 7.50 hank. This 
roving is taken to the spinning room 
and spun into 30s on a warp frame 
having a diameter of ring 1% inches, 
length of traverse Qy 2 inches, twist per 
inch, 26.02 and a spindle speed of 9,- 
800 revolutions per minute. This yarn 
is then spooled and warped, after 
which it is run through the slasher. 

The No. 9s yarn is made on a filling 
spinning frame with a 11-inch diame- 
ter ring, 7-inch traverse, 9.75 twist and 
a spindle speed of 6,200 revolutions 
per minute. 

The 30s yarn is made on a frame 
with a l|-inch diameter ring, 6-inch 
traverse, 19.17 twist per inch and a 
spindle speed of 8,300 revolutions per 
minute. 



I N DEX 



Albatross Cloth 522 

An Idea of Value 163 

Artificial Silk Novelty Dress Goods... 173 

Artificial Silk Stripe Overdress 280 

Artificial Silk Stripe Voile 220 

Back-CIoth 730 

Baline 717 

Barathea 684 

Batiste 479 

, Bayadere 453 

Bayadere Made Entirely of Mercerized 

Cotton .464 

Bedford Cord 511 

Bedford Cord, Imitation Jacquard 158 

Bedford Cord, Striped 327 

Bedspreads — Crochet Quilts 571 

Bedspreads — Marseilles Quilts 575 

Bedspreads — Satin Quilts 580 

Beige 656 

Bengaline 63 

Bengal Stripes 701 

Biaz or Linen Finish Suiting 649 

Bishop's Lawn 695 

Book Muslin 634 

Boucle 457 

Bourrette 426 

Box Loom Dotted Swiss 216 

Brighton Cloth 719 



Brilliante 631 

Brilliantine 498 

Brocade, S.Ik 307 

Brocatelle 528 

Buckram , 561 

Buyers' Cost Key 100 

Calico 502 

Cambric 544 

Canton Flannel 395 

Canvas 728 

Cashmere Twi:i 462 

Chambray 393 

Check Flaxon 239 

Cheesecloth 487 

Cheviot Shirting 412 

Chintz 515 

Cloth Costs 110 

Coburg Suiting 650 

Combed Tarn Goods— Cotton Linings.. 459 

Corduroy 385 

Cost Key, Buyers' 100 

Cost of Cloth Containing Fast Colors.. 114 

Cottonade 372 

Cotton Bengaline 63 

Cotton Cassimere 588 

Cotton Cloth Cost Finding 105 

Cotton Drapery 297 

Cotton Linings 409 



INDEX 



737 



Cotton Marquisette 36 

Cotton-Mohair Fabrics 662 

Cotton Surf Serge 273 

Cotton "Voiles 6 

Cotton "Worsted, Men's Wear 375 

Coutil or Corset Cloth 28 

Crash 346 

Crash, Hammock 340 

Crepe de Chine 32 

Crepe Fabrics 22 

Crepe Ratine Novelty 115 

Crepe, Special Weave 137 

Crepe, Striped 88 

Crepe Weave Fabric 58 

Crepons 688 

Cretonne 44 ° 

Crinkle Cloth, or Seersucker 369 

Crinoline 355 

Crochet Quilts 571 

Damask Fabrics '57 

Denim 424 

Dhooties .' 610 

Diagonal Weave Terry Cloth 312 

Diaper Cloth 715 

Dimity T> 389 

Dimity, Imitation 628 

Domet or Outing Cloth 348 

Dotted Swiss, Box loom 216 

Dotted Swiss Swivel 179 

Drill 418 

Duck 398 

Bolienne 709 

Bolienne, Snk Warp 209 

Eponge, Jacquard 322 

Eponge, Novelty Cotton 217 

Eponge, Plain Warp 292 

Eponge, Silk Mixture 252 

Etamine 476 

Fabric Analysis 106 

Fancy All-Over Leno 269 

Fancy Cloth Costs 112,113 

Fancy Leno Stripe 205 

Fancy Pile Fabrics 95 

Fancy Shirting 429 

Fast Color, Mercerized Jacquard Shirt- 
ing 283 

Fast Color, Soiesette Shirting 212 

Figured Silk, Leno Waisting 379 

Filling Reversibles 607 

Fine Tarn Stripe 224 

Flannel, Canton 395 

Flannelette 421 



Flannelette Novelty 287 

Galatea 720 

Gauze, Mock Leno 602 

Gingham (Common) 343 

Gingham (Madras) 471 

Ginghams 734 

Gingham (Zephyr) 351 

Gloria Silk and Glor.a Cloth 726 

Grenadine 627 

Hammock Cloth 363 

Hammock Crash 340 

Handkerchiefs 712 

Henrietta Cloth 541 

Herringbone Stripes 665 

Hickory Stripes 402 

Honeycomb Goth .718 

Huckaback Towels 599 

Imitation Gauze, Mock Leno 602 

Imitation Jacquard, Bedford Cord 158 

Indian Dimity 623 

Indigo Prints 564 

Italian Cloth 483 

Items of Yarn Cost 108 

Jacquard Eponge 322 

Jacquard Filling, Reversible 189 

Jacquard Shii tings 227 

Jacquard, Silk Warp Eolienne 209 

Jacquard Waisting 266 

Jean 43S 

Kid Finish Cambric 653 

Lamp Wicking 706 

Lappet Dotted Swiss 40 

(^awn) 447 

Lawn, Bishop 595 

Lawn, "Victoria 646 

Leno, Allover 269 

Leno Clipped Spot Dress Goods 199 

Leno Cotton Fabrics 567 

Leno, Fancy Stripe 205 

Leno, Waisting 379 

Linen Finish Suitings 649 

Linon 639 

Long Cloth : 559 

Loop, or Kno Cloth 686 

Madras 342 

Madras Gingham 471 

Marquisette 301 

Marseilles Quilts 575 

Men's Wear, Cotton Worsted 375 



738 



INDEX 



Mercerized Cord 78 

Mercerized Drapery Novelty 120 

Mercerized Etamine 194 

Mercerized Poplin 45 

Mercerized Russian Cord Shirting 259 

Mercerized Seersucker Stripe 263 

Mercerized Vesting 433 

Mercerized Waistings 11 

Method of Finding Cost, Illustrated 113 

Method of Using Yarn Key 110 

Mill Profits -. 113 

Mixture Moire 69 

Mock Leno Gauze 602 

Mock Leno Weave Crepe 125 

'•Mock-Twist" Suiting 49 

Moire 69 

Mull 637 

Muslin, Book 634 

Muslin, Butcher's Muslin 539 

Muslin, Foundatiun Muslin 675 

Nainsook 550 

Nankeen, or Nankin 673 

New Siik and Cotton Fabrics 83 

Novelty Cotton Eponge 217 

Novelty Dress Goods 415 

Novelty Tarn, Striped Crepe 88 

Ondule Fabrics 592 

Organdie (Plain and Figured) 519 

Orleans Linings 678 

Osnaburg 406 

Percale 506 

Percaline 509 

Pile Fabric, Fancy 95 

Pique 467 

"PiqUe" or "Marseilles" . 336 

Plain and Plaided Nainsook 550 

Plain Cloth Cost Ill 

Piain Warp, Cotton Eponge> 292 

Poplin 659 

Printed Silkaline 53 

Quilts, Crochet 571 

guilts, Marseilles 575 

Quilts, Satin 580 

Raincloth 585 

Ramie-Linen 17 

Ratine, Crepe 115 

Ratine, Leno 131 

Rice CloLi 142 

Robes 698 

Russian Cord Voile 248 

Satin Checks 671 

Satine or Sateen 535 

Satin Quilts 580 

Scrim 339 

Seersucker, or Crinkle Cloth 369 

Shade Cloth 693 

Shadow Checks 682 

Sheeting 409 

onirting, Fancy 429 



Shirting, Jacquard 22? 

Shirting, Mercerized 283 

Snirting, Silk 255 

Shirting, Soisette 212 

Silence Cloth, Filiing Backed 676 

Silesia 443 

Silk (Leno) Waisting, Figured 379 

Silk Mixture, Brocade 307 

Silk Mixture, Cross-Dyed Novelty 242 

Silk Mixture, Eponge 252 

Silk Mixture, Fast Color Novelties 234 

Silk Mixture, Fast Color Shirting 255 

Silk Mixture, Leno Scarfing 230 

Silk Mixture, Marquisette 301 

Silk Mixture, Wave Crepe 276 

Silk Novelty Dress Goods, Artificial. . .173 

Siik Stripe Voile, Artificial 280 

Slub Tarn Novelty 73 

Special Weave Crepe 137 

Spot and Stripes 552 

Stop Peg Checks 617 

Striped Bedford Cord 327 

Striped Crepe 88 

Striped Tissue 168 

Stripes, Herringbone 665 

Stripes, Hickory Stripes 402 

Suspender Webbing 620 

Swiss Applique (Printed) 331 

Swivel Dotted Swiss 179 

Taffeta Silk Lining, or Taffetine 641 

Tape 431 

Tarlatan 525 

Tartan Plaids 450 

Tartans 558 

Terrv Cloth, Diagonal Weave 312 

Terry Cloth, or Turkish Toweling 367 

Terrv Piie Fabrics 532 

Ticking 403 

Tire Fabrics '. 547 

Tobacco Cloths 185 

Towels, Huckaback 599 

Tucks 338 

Turkey Red 704 

Tussah Broche 147 

Umbrella Cloths 597 

Unequally Reeded Stripes 614 

Union Linen Lawns 669 

Unique Leno Rating 131 

Velour 723 

Velveteen 490 

Velveteen Cutting 494 

Victoria Lawn 64fi 

Voile, Russian Cord 248 

Voiie, Silk Stripe 280 

Woven Seersucker Stripe 153 

Tarn Costs 108 

Tarn Costs for Combed and Carded 
Tarns 110 

Zephyr Gingham 351 




THE 
PERFECT 
WEAVING 

REED 



Resists all WEAVING strain. Will not wear the shuttle or cut the yarn, because we 
Dolish the wire by a new method. That's the Reed we make. We make the best 
Cotton Reed on the market. Our Specialty is Keeds for Weaving Cotton Fancies 
and Novelties. 

Write for particulars and testimonials of those who are using them successfully 
in their mills. _ 

H. E. SCHMIDT & CO. 

Manufacturers of Loom Reeds and Slasher Combs. 
116 Front Street :: :: :: :: :: NEW BEDFORD, MASS. 



Waldron H. Rand & Co. 

Certified Public Accountants 



101 Milk Street 



BOSTON 




MODEL A R CLOTH 
TRADEMARKING MACHINE 



Cloth Finishing 
Machinery 

Nap Gig Perch 

Wind Double Inspect 

Measure Pumice Spotproof 
Yardnumber Trademark 

Shear Steam Brush Weigh 
Roll Polish Stretch 

Luster Decatize Sand 



PARKS &, WOOLSON MACHINE CO 

Springfield Vermont USA 



